Intro to Apparel

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Design/Sketch

Fashion sketching or fashion flats can be defined as a base templates one can use to

create unique apparel designs. We have industry standard flat sketches that

demonstrate a professional and accurate illustration of garments and important designdetails like topstitching, hardware, trims and fabric treatments.

What is Sketching or Designing?

In the garment manufacturing the first step is designing the sketchfor the dresses that have to be pre

For this purpose the designer first draw several rough sketches in the sketch book. The designer do

for details at this moment but he rather let his creativity flow on the paper and he draws many sketc

Later these sketches are analyzed by a panel of designers. They finally select few out of them. Thes

sketches are rendered in detail separately or in the form of a single collection. The designer also

draws working drawings along with the sketch. Working drawingsare flat drawing of the sketch an

help pattern maker in understanding the patterns involved in the construction.

Tips or advice on sketching

Instead of worrying about clean lines, and whatnotfocus on the

key detailsfor apparel, thats seam lines and stitches. Figure out rib details, etc in a more


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magnified/detailed sketch later.

You want to define your figure/silhouette.Figure out how wide apart the shoulders/arms areDo this quick. Dont erase anything. If it messes up this early, just sketch over it.

Here define the arm opening. Is it a standard set-in sleeve, or is it a raglan? Or is it evensomething else?

Define the length of the arms and body here. This is done by some horizontal lines.Easy.Make a signature of yours in sketches stylistically/aesthetically and use it as a

template.Outline it with sharpie and trace this for future sketches that you want to mess

around with based off this apparel block.

Once part 3 is done, here is where you fill in the details. This is where the seam lines andstitches go. Heres where you add a hood, cuffs/ribs, zippers, buttons, drawcords, etc.. Don

erase anything here. Go with your gut and sketch it. If you mess up, do step 13 overitwill get easier/faster. The reason is, you dont want to get stuck erasing, and dwelling on

your seam lines too much. Dont over think your concepts. Sketch and keep going. If you

mess up, move to an empty space and re-draw. Why? If you erase something you dont like

that idea is gone forever. What if you come across another project or idea that may actually

make sense for that design you erased? Now its gone forever. Never erase. They teach you

this in Calculus too. Simply exit out lightly with a pencil. Its nice to see your

thought/concept evolve anyway.

You can do step 4 in a micron pen, and not use pencil. Preferably do all the sketches withonly micron pen and sharpie.

Finish up the sketches with a standard sharpie outline. This allows you to visually see thesilhouette and it frames your sketch up nicely. It also makes the sketch really jump off the

paper. You can experiment with different line weights and pens. You may even find that yo

only outline pronounced parts or drop shadow the garment. Add your own flavor.

The Sketching Process

Fashion sketching not only involves the act of drawing an initial idea but also theprocess of conside

developing the idea across the pages of a sketchbook. It is always best to have an idea of what you

draw. In many respects a fashion sketch is a problem-solving process, which brings together the vis

elements of articulating an idea in its purest form. This can mean recording a sudden idea before it

or forgotten, or capturing a moment in time, such as observing a deta


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The Fashion Sketching Process

A fashion sketch should seek to record and make sense of an idea. This is largely achieved with any one or

more of three components:

Establishing the overall silhouette of a garment or outfit Conveying the style lines of a garment such as a princess seam or the positioning of a dart And representing details on a garment such as a pocket shape, topstitching or embellishment

Some sketches may appear spontaneous or similar to mark making but they should all be linked by a common

understanding of the human form and an end use. (Mark making is a general term used to describe a variety of

lines and marks that may be applied by different media to enhance or add an expressive quality to a drawing. I

fashion drawing it is synonymous with line quality.)

Graphite or drawing pencils are ideal for shading and creating variations of line quality. While this is a good

way to get started, it is also well worth developing the confidence to sketch with a pen. Sketching in pen

requires a more linear approach to drawing, which can often enhance the clarity of a design idea, and it is no

less spontaneous than using pencil, as Lovisa Burfitts work clearly demonstrates.

Understanding fashion proportions

The proportions of a fashion figure are often exaggerated and stylised,

particularly for womensweardrawings. This can sometimes be slightly confusing to the untrained eye but in

fashion terms it represents a statement of an ideal rather than an actual body shape. This ideal is then aligned toa contemporary look that is viewed through the visual lens of fashion.

Since the late 1960s and 1970s exaggerated proportions have generally prevailed and continue to exert an

artistic influence over most fashion drawings. Most standing fashion figures are proportioned between nine and

ten heads in height (if the figures head is arranged vertically on the page alongside the complete standing
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figure). Most of the additional height is gained through the legs, with some added to the neck and a little added

to the torso above the natural waist. Most women in the real world stand around 5ft 5in or 5ft 6in, but a fashion

figure needs to project greater height in order to better show off the clothes and communicate the look to an

audience, usually through exaggerated gestural poses. Of course, a woman who might be 5ft 2in could be

proportioned the same as a woman standing 5ft 10in but for fashion purposes neither would offer the desired

ideal proportions for communicating the look. When drawing the fashion figure the look might refer to the

prevailing styles of the season, such as the position of the fashion waist, or it may be an exploration of

voluminous or contoured clothing styles with reference to influences from a particularly favoured model or

celebrity.

There are fundamental differences between the fashion proportions for drawing men and women. Womens

fashion proportions are mostly concerned with extending height through the legs and neck, with the resulting

drawings taking on a sinuous and gently curved appearance. For men the drawing approach is altogether moreangular.

The Sketching Schematics

Sketching is an important tool for any sewerit serves as a road map for all phases of garment crea

from fabric and color selection to actual construction. If you can sketch, you can record fashions se

street, work out design details, and communicate your ideas to others.

Flat schematics and fashion illustrations

Take a look at an ordinary pattern envelope, and you'll see two different,

but equally important types of sketches at work. On the back of the envelope, schematic drawings show the fla

outline of the garment, with style lines and construction details. In contrast, the more dynamic fashion

illustrations on the envelope front depict the garment or ensemble on a body (typically an elongated, slender
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one), and give the illusion of three-dimensional form and movement.For perfect symmetry, draw half, fold, and

trace. Place tracing paper over your croquis and mark the center front line. Draw the left side of your garment

only, then fold the tracing paper along the center front line, and trace your markings onto the right side; unfold

and add asymmetrical details, such as zippers.

Curve the back edge of the collar stand and the neckline seam, where the stand meets the facing or lining.

Draw seamlines as solid lines and topstitching as fine, dotted lines.

Indicate a zipper with a dotted line of topstitching. For an invisible zipper, draw only a zipper pull.

Suggest fullness or gathers within a garment or along the hem by using curved, uneven lines.

For conventional buttons and plackets, use the center front line as a guide; a placket overlaps the center frontslightly.

Designate the inside of a garment or wrong side of a fabric by shading the area lightly.

Recess the inside of a pleat or fold at the hem by drawing it shorter than the main body of the garment.

Include at least a portion of the back view with your sketch.

Illustrations made easy

Start a fashion rendering with a photograph or illustration with a silhouette similar to the garment you want to

sketch. Reduce or enlarge it on a photocopier if desired.

Trace a photo. Trace the outline and major lines of the figure and clothing from the image onto a sheet

of tracing paper, using quick pencil strokes. Include facial features if desired.

Draw your design. Lay another piece of tracing paper over your traced figure. Draw your own design,following the original silhouette where appropriate. Fill in the rest of the illustration by retracing the head, feet

and any details from your first tracing. Finish by darkening your pencil lines.

Color and notate. Lay drawing paper over your last tracing and trace the pencil lines with a fine-point marker.


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Add color, texture, and shadows if desired. Annotate the sketch and label details.

The trace-and-fill approach

The basics of fashion sketching are quite simple: slide an existing figure drawing under a

blank sheet of paper, and draw the garment to fit the outlines of her figure. It's the genre of the figure itself tha

will determine the look of the final drawing. For flat garment schematics, you'll use a croquis, a schematic

figure drawing with standard body proportions (see our version at left).

A croquis is indispensable for creating flat garment sketches.

Along with tracing paper and pencils, you'll need an eraser, drawing paper that's not too opaque (computer

printer paper works well), and colored pencils or markers. Don't worry about making perfect sketches; your

goal is to develop and communicate your ideas clearly and accurately. As many accomplished designers will

confirm, sketching is a great first step to creating the garments of your dreams.

This schematic figure provides accurate proportions for creating flat garment sketches. Lay tracing paper over

the croquis and draw your design over the figure.

What is Fabric selection in apparel manufacturing?

Fabric selection is a crucial step in designing a project because fabrics are designed for

specific applications, a fabric manufactured for one purpose, may not be adaptable for another

use.Therefore selecting the appropriate fabric is only the first step in providing serviceable fabrics f


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apparel manufacturing.Designers specify the fabric as part of their design concept. Designers may d

new styles for fabrics that have been successful. In other cases, untested fabrics may inspire new d

Various aspects of Fabric selection

Fabrics used in garment manufacturing can be categorised into two groups: properties and characteristics. A

property is a static physical dimension such as yards per pound; where as, characteristic is the reaction of the

fabrics when a force is imposed up on it. Elongation, elasticity, shrinkage and seam strength are examples of

characteristics. These are measure of reactions to dynamic conditions. Characteristics are physical or chemical

changes in the fabric resulting from the application of outside forces.

1. GENERAL CONSIDERATION OF FABRICS FOR APPAREL MANUFACTURINGThe apparel producer is interested primarily in the characteristics of a fabric. Although fabric

characteristics are related to fabric properties, a fabric property is of no interest to the apparel

manufacture unless it controls a fabric characteristic or cost factor vital tohim, or unless the property

itself such as thickness or weight, has definite utility or style value.There are three view points to

stipulating fabric selection

The consumers view point The fabric producers view point The garment producers view point

The consumers interests lies solely in the appearance and wear ability characteristics of the fabric; the

durability, utility and style values.The garment producer is interested in the garment production workin

characteristics of the fabric, the cost of producing a given garment with the fabric. If the garment

producer is a jobber or manufacturer who sells the garment directly or indirectly to consumers, he will

be interested, also, in all the consumer values. If the garment producer is a contractor his interest lies

only in the field of the production costaspect of the working characteristics.The same applies to the

fabric producer. If he fabricates cloth for garment manufactures,he must consider garment production

work characteristics. However, if the fabric producer makes cloth for over the counter retail sales, he

dose not have to consider whether the working characteristics are good enough to produce the garmentwith industrial equipment and methods.

2. FABRIC IDENTIFICATION FOR GARMENTDesigners and merchandisers may go to major fabric markets to collect ideas, check trends, examine

few products, and seek sample yardage. Fabrics may be designed and developed by apparel designers o


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merchandisers and ordered from mills or converters according to the apparel manufactures

specification. Acquisition of piece goods is accomplished after fabric samples and product

specifications have been examined and lead times. Minimums, delivery dates, putup, and price have

been negotiated.Identification of appropriate fabrics is based on product information and testing

provided by fabric vendors and/or testing and product development conducted by apparelmanufacturers

Sources of information include fabric samples, specifications, andcertification.

3. APPAREL FABRICS FOR WOMEN AND CHILDRENIn the purchase of their apparel most women seek primarily for look rightness andserviceability. For

outer apparel lookrightness is probably the first consideration. In the purchase of underclothing and

childrens wear, serviceability is commonly the first consideration, although lookrightness is nearly

always a factor, too. Serviceability is a combination of suitability of fabric and the quality of garments

construction.Differences in weight automatically limit some fabrics to particular seasons and uses.

Insummer thin fabrics, such as voile, eyelet, batiste, sheer, creeps and chiffons, in winter,for heavier

materials such as wood tweeds, homes puns, velvet, corduroy, and fur like fabric. Some stiff fabrics

look better when a crisp appearance is required; soft and clinging fabrics are appropriate when slinky,

draped effect is desired; rich and luxurious fabrics look best in the evening; washable fabrics appear to

advantage when worn in the house, in garden, and for sports.

4. APPAREL FABRICS FOR MEN'S AND BOY'S WEARMen's wear may be classified as:1.Men's clothing and 2.Men's furnishings.A similar division may be

made for boy's wear. Work clothing is often treated as separate classification.Men's and boy's

furnishings are composed of similar articles, the chief of which are shirts, sleepwear, underwear,

hosiery, robes, ties, hand kerchiefs, belts, suspenders,garters, muffles and scarf, sweaters and bathing

suits. Men's jewellery (non - textile) suchas cuff links, studs, tie clips and stickpins, are also commonly

included in theclassification.Men's clothing includes garments such as suits, topcoats, cover coats,

jackets and slacks.Boy's clothing includes suits, topcoats, overcoats, jackets, and raincoats. With the

emergence of fashion as selling force, there are more divisions of men's and boy's section in departmen

and specialty stores.

Common Fabrics used in Garment manufacturing

Name DEscription

CALICO Calico is balanced plain weave. Made of cotton and blends usually polyester.


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COTTON LAWN Cotton lawn is made of combed or mercerised cotton. It is balanced plain weave. It issoft and top weight fabric.

COTTON MUSLIN It is top weight fabric, with open or loose weave, sheet, sleepwear, shirt, dresses, etc

SHEETING/

PERCALE

Sheeting or percale fabric is made of cotton and blends of carded yarn. It is balanced

plain weave and used for house hold sheeting.

POPLIN Poplin is made of cotton or blend with polyester. It has more warp than weft and weft isgenerally coarser.

TAFFETA Taffeta is produced only from filament yarn. Its weave is close, and wrap and weft same

size. There are more warp than weft. It is fine smooth fabric with a very fine crosswise

rib.

DRILL Drill is made of cotton or blend with polyester. It is produced from carded yarn with 3/1warp face twill

DENIM Denim is produced from cotton or blend with polyester. Carded yarns only or rotor

yarnis used for denim manufacturing.

GABARDINE Gabardine is usually wool or blend with man - made fibres. It is usually fine,

combed,and worsted.

TWEED Tweed may be wool, fairly coarse or cotton, man - made fibre and blends fabric.

SATEEN/SATIN Sateen is weft float fabric, mostly produced from cotton. It is top weightsmoothest,fullest and mostly lustrous and very flexible fabric.

Layout /Cutting Marking

After purchasing fabric, pattern, notions, and preparing the fabric (on grain and re-shrunk / washed

are ready to do thepattern layout. A layout is a plan for the placement of pattern pieces on the fabric

are various categories of layout marking like grainlines, place of fold brackets, notches etc.There ar

various methods of cutting marking such as single size, multi size and cutting in a particular body s

Layout Markings

Grainline: This heavy, solid line with arrows at both ends is usually in the center of

the pattern, although it can appear anywhere within the pattern piece. Use it to ensure the pattern is positionedalong the straight grain of the fabric, so that the garment or project hangs properly. Unless otherwise indicated

pin thepattern piece so the grainline is parallel to the fabric selvage.

Place on Fold Bracket: This solid line with arrows that point to thepattern piece edge,

indicates that the piece should be positioned along the fabric fold. This usually applies to garments that do not


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have a center front or center back seam.

Notches: Diamond or trapezoidal shaped symbols along the seamline are used both

in pattern layout and during construction. When you are laying out the pattern pieces to match a plaid, stripe or

large design, position adjoining notches so that the fabric at the seamlines (not the cutting lines) will match

when the seams are sewn.

Cutting Markings

Cutting Line (single size): The outer line of the pattern piece provides a guide for

cutting the fabric. The line sometimes has an illustration of tiny scissors on it.

Cutting line (multi-size): Multi-size patterns have several sizes printed on the same

tissue and are sold in one envelope. Sometimes the multiple cutting lines are all solid, in which case it helps to

highlight your size before cutting, and sometimes each cutting line is a slightly different line configuration.

Cutting line within the body of the pattern: When the design has a shorter view, there is often a cutting line

for the shorter length within the pattern.

The Layout Procedure

The procedure of Layout of Fabric

The pattern guide sheet will probably have several layout illustrations to study. These are based on patternsize,

width, and type of fabric (napped, one-way design, etc.).

It is often helpful to study and play with various layout situations. Sometimes a different layout will enable y

better utilize your fabric. However, do not depart from the suggested layout unless you fully understand layout

design and realize that many fabrics need a specific (with nap) layout due to color shading or fabric design.

After deciding on a layout view for the pattern size and fabric width, circle it so it is easy to see figure 3 then, lo

carefully at the layout to find:

if the fabric is folded, is it lengthwise or crosswise or a combination of the two.(Figure 4) which pattern pieces are to be used.


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which layout view is for special fabrics such as nap, one-way designs, or color shading (all pattern piecebe turned in the same direction). (Figure 5)

if the fabric is cut on single or double thickness. (Figure 5)

Special Layout

All napped and knit fabrics require that pattern pieces be laid with their "tops" in the samedirection (one-way or with nap layout).

Some fabrics are printed with one-way designs and need a "nap" layout. Check large designs since they may need matching, especially at center seams. Plaids and stripes require matching (at the seamline, not the cutting line) in both the

lengthwise and crosswise directions, if possible.

Uneven stripes and plaids require a oneway or with nap layout.

Preparing for Layout

Before we layout the fabric one needs to do the needful preparation for Fabric layout in garment

manufacturing like folding the fabric correctly, pinning the pattern with the fabric , placing pattern

pieces, matching grains by measuring and securing the pins to the grain lines and also that the pins

should be properly placed and should be in right quantity.

1. When the selected layout view has you fold the fabric, fold it with right sides together. This willmake markingeasier. Place the fabric on a large cutting surface such as acutting board, table, or cabinet counter-top.After the

pattern pieces you need have been selected, smooth the folds out by hand or lightly press. If there are pattern

pieces for interfacing and/or lining, press them and put them aside. Most garments are made with the lengthw

grain running vertically on the body. Place the pattern pieces on the fabric, positioning them on the grainline u

all pattern pieces are on the fabric. Always start with the large pieces first. (Figure 6)

1. Patterns may be secured to the fabric by pinning or by weights. Actual "pattern weights" can bepurchased, but some people use items they have available such as empty glasses, paper weights, or the

like. Some fabrics are easily marred and damaged by pins. These fabrics include Ultrasuede, leather, an

leather-like fabric.( Figure 7) Place pattern pieces, matching grain by measuring and using pins to secu


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along the grainline arrow. To do this correctly, position the pattern piece.Next, measure the distance fro

one end of the arrow to the selvage or to the folded edge. Move to the other end of the arrow and

measure. The distance should be the same at both ends. Pin at each end of the arrows. When pattern

pieces are on the fold, be sure to place them exactly on the fold. (Figure 8) If a piece is to be cut on a

single thickness, be sure to flip the pattern over to cut the second one. Otherwise, you can end up with

two pieces for the same side. When cutting on double fabric, the pattern pieces may be laid right or wro

side up. Some fabrics require a one-way layout.(Figure 9) This special layout is needed for napped or

pile fabrics (such as corduroy, velvet, velveteen), one-way designs (such as flowers "growing" in only

one direction), and some plaids. Knits and some woven fabricsexhibit a 3 color shading when the patter

direction is changed. When in doubt, it is advisable to use a one-way layout to avoid a potential problem

(Figure 9) A one-way layout will direct you to lay all pattern pieces heading the same direction. After a

pattern pieces have been positioned grain perfect, complete the pinning process. Place the pins in the

fabric with their points in toward the outer edge of the pattern.

(Figure 9)

Pins should be perpendicular to the stitching lines and the cutting line.(Figure 10) Place only

enough pins to hold the pattern in place. Putting too many pins in the pattern piece can actually cause you to cut the

piece larger than is needed. However, be sure to pin at corners and along straight and curved edges.

Garment Sampling

Garment samples are inevitably important and are developed tested before starting the bulk

production. It means making a sample of the garment /fabric which requires to be sold. Sampling i

one of the main process in Garment Industry and it has a vital role in attracting buyers. Because th

buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of the samples.

Sampling

The samples decide the ability of an exporter. The buyer will access the exporter and his organisation only by the

samples. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally the buyers will be forced to place the

order.So it is essential that the samples should be innovative and with optimum quality. Thepurpose of sampling is n

only to get bulk orders and also give some additional benefits tothe exporters. By doing sampling the exporter can


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estimate the yarn consumption fordeveloping the fabric, a clear idea on costing more ever the manufacturing

difficulties.Besides by doing sampling only the exporter can optimize the processing parameters formass production

which helps to avoid all kind of bottlenecks. All these works are carriedout by the sampling department, which us led

by a sampling in charge.

The Details Attached to the Garment Sample

After the confirmation of order, each sample sent t 0 the buyer has the following details attached to it, with the

help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the buyer has demanded and

what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if applicable).

Ref no. Color Fabric Composition Description Quantity Style n0/ Size Store

There may be a separate sampling department in a company. But as the merchandiser is the person who is

interacting with the buyers regarding samples and other requirements, this sampling department will workunder the supervision of merchandising department. Also as the samples are to be made according to the

buyers price ranges and quality levels, merchandiser has to advise sampling department suitably.

Persons involved in Sampling

We have to send many samples to buyers. They are

Salesmen samples or promotional samples

Proto samples or fit samples Counter samples or reference samples or approval samples Wash test samples Photo samples Fashion show samples


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Pre-production samples Production samples Shipment samples

Sampling Process

The process of sample department varies from context to context, and the developmentprocess covers a wide range o

diverse products from new fibers, fiber blends, new yarns,fabric structures ,finishes and surface effects and all types o

made up products such asknitwear, hosiery, cut and sewn garments, household products, technical and

medicalproducts. There are different phases of sampling; the first phase covers the development of the initial concep

or design idea through its approval by the customer and full review/riskanalysis by the development and production

teams. The second phase covers the processfollowing acceptance of the first prototype sample and includes the

functions of sourcingand ordering component, testing the product and carry out trails once the finalized

samplespecifications has been drawn up, the third and final phase commences. The phase includesa range of activitiethat are carried out before large scale or bulk production capacityoutside the home producer/developers wherever th

is applicable.

Development samples or enquiry samples

When we work with some buyers continuously, we will have to keep on sending samples to them very often.

Whenever they have enquiries, buyer may need samples. Buyers may like to see the garments in a new fabric.

For one enquiry, they may need samples in different fabrics to choose from. If they want to develop new style

in new fabric, then also we will have to send these samples.

We may have to spend too much on these samples. But these samples are inevitably important to develop

business. Some times, even the buyer is not so confident of some enquiries, if our samples are good and

attractive at reasonable prices, they will bring orders to us.

Also we will have to send samples to the newly contacted buyers to show our workmanship, product range,

quality standards and price level. These samples should be sent so that they would attract the buyers.

So it is better for a company to have a separate sampling department so that they can create new styles in new

fabrics to impress the buyers.


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Salesmen samples or promotional samples

Some buyer needs these samples for getting the orders from their customers. If the buyer is having 7 salesmen

in his office, then the buyer will ask us to make 7 samples in each style. The salesmen will book the orders

from their customers, by showing these samples. Buyer will place the order to us accumulating the quantities.

If we have sent samples for 5 styles, some times, we may get orders for all 5 styles, 3 styles or 1 style. Some

times, we may not get order for even a single style. Expected sales may not be possible, due to poor quality,

unsuitable colours, improper measurements, unmatched prints or embroidery, etc of salesmen samples. Or it

may be due to local business recession or competition or unsuitable prices. Any way, we have to make these

salesmen samples perfectly with sincere interest to get orders.

We might have spent more money, time, etc for making these samples. But as we dont get orders, we can not

blame the buyer. He too can not help us in this regard. To avoid this embarrassing situation, it is better to

discuss about the cost of these samples with the buyer before proceeding for sampling.

Normally the sampling will cost us approximately 3 to 5 times of the garment price. We can not expect to get

the full cost from the buyer. Of course these samples will help us for our business. Hence we can ask the buye

to accept 2 or 3 times of garment price as the sampling cost, for the styles which we dont get orders. Some

genuine buyers will agree for this.

Photo samples or fit samples

These samples are to be made after getting the order sheets. These samples are needed to check the

measurements, style and fit. So they can be made in available similar fabrics but in the actual measurements

and specifications.

Some buyers may need these samples if they want to print the photos of garments on photo inlays, packing bohang tag, etc. These samples may be needed for local advertisement or buyers promotional occasions.

In any case, the samples will be worn by the highly paid models. The buyers will arrange the photo shoot

session, by spending huge money to the advertising agencies. So the buyers will need these samples strictly on

time. If they dont get samples on time, the buyers will have to pay more compensation to


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trims. They will represent that the production will be like these samples.

Production samples

These samples are to be sent before shipment to get the buyers confirmation for shipment. Hence these samples are

needed to be perfect in all manners. Buyer may check these samples for everything or anything. Some times, they ma

do wash test also. We should not get any remark or comment. We have to get only OK from the buyer. Then only we

can ship the goods and we can be sure of getting payment. So these samples are to be sent with more and more care

Shipment samples

These samples are to be sent after shipment. They should be sent in actual packing with all labels, tags, etc. (Generally

these samples will not be tested by buyer for anything. And even if we get some comments from buyers, we can save

ourselves by saying that these samples were sent from the left over garments after the shipment; hence there might

some mistakes. If we expect any comments in these samples, it is better to inform the buyer during sending these

samples).

Workflow of Sampling


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Apparel Manufacturing Processes

Ready to wear apparel or garment manufacturing involves many processing steps, beginning with

the idea or design concept and ending with a finished product. Apparel

manufacturing processinvolves Product Design, Fabric Selection and Inspection, Patternmaking,

Grading, Marking, Spreading, Cutting, Bundling, Sewing, Pressing or Folding, Finishing and

Detailing, Dyeing and Washing, QC etc.

Receiving Fabrics

Garment factories receive fabric from overseas textile manufacturers in large bolts with cardboard or plastic

center tubes or in piles or bags. The fabric typically arrives in steel commercial shipping containers and is

unloaded with a forklift. Garment factories often have a warehouse or dedicated area to store fabric between

arrival and manufacturing.


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Fabric Relaxing

Relaxing refers to the process that allows material to relax and contract prior to being manufactured. This

step is necessary because the material is continually under tension throughout the various stages of the

textile manufacturing process, including weaving,dyeing, and other finishing processes. The

relaxing process allows fabrics to shrink so that further shrinkage during customer use is minimized.

Garment manufacturers perform the relaxing process either manually or mechanically. Manual fabric relaxing

typically entails loading the bolt of fabric on a spinner and manually feeding the material through a piece of

equipment that relieves tension in the fabric as it is pulled through. Mechanical fabric relaxing performs this

same process in an automated manner.

Many garment manufacturers will also integrate quality assurance into this process to ensure that the quality o

the fabric meets customer standards. This step is performed by manually spot-checking each bolt of fabric

using a backlit surface to identify manufacturing defects such as color inconsistency or flaws in the material.

Fabrics that fail to meet customer standards are returned to the textile manufacturer.

Spreading, Form Layout, and Cutting

After fabric has been relaxed, it is transferred to the spreading and cutting area of the garment manufacturing

facility. The fabric is first cut into uniform plies and then spread either manually or using a computer-controll

system in preparation for the cutting process. Fabric is spread to:

allow operators to identify fabric defects; control the tension and slack of the fabric during cutting; and

ensure each ply is accurately aligned on top of the others.

The number of plies in each spread is dependent on the fabric type, spreading method, cutting equipment, and

size of the garment order.

Next, garment formsor patternsare laid out on top of the spread, either manually or programmed into an


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automated cutting system. Lastly, the fabric is cut to the shape of the garment forms using either manually

operated cutting equipment or a computerizedcutting system.

Embroidery and Screen Printing

Embroidery and screen printing are two processes that occur only if directly specified by the customer;

therefore, these processes are commonly subcontracted to off-site facilities. Embroidery is performed using

automated equipment, often with many machines concurrently embroidering the same pattern on multiple

garments. Each production line may include between 10 and 20 embroidery stations. Customers may request

embroidery to put logos or other embellishments on garments.

Screen printing is the process of applying paint-based graphics to fabric using presses and textile dryers.

Specifically, screen printing involves sweeping a rubber blade across a porous screen, transferring ink through

a stencil and onto the fabric. The screen printed pieces of fabric are then dried to set the ink. This process may

have varying levels of automation or may largely be completed at manually operated stations. Like embroider

screen printing is wholly determined by the customer and may be requested to put logos or other graphics on

garments or to print brand and size information in place of affixing tags.

Sewing

Garments are sewn in an assembly line, with the garment becoming more complete as it progresses down the

sewing line. Sewingmachine operators receive a bundle of cut fabric and repeatedly sew the same portion of t

garment, passing that completed portion to the next operator. For example, the first operator may sew the coll

to the body of the garment and the next operator may sew a sleeve to the body. Quality assurance is performed

at the end of the sewing line to ensure that the garment has been properly assembled and that no manufacturin

defects exist. When needed, the garment will be reworked or mended at designated sewing stations. This labo

intensive process progressively transforms pieces of fabric into designer garments.


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Spot Cleaning and Laundry

In addition to identifying manufacturing defects, employees tasked with performing quality assurance are alsolooking for cosmetic flaws, stains, or other spots on the garment that may have occurred during the cutting an

sewing processes. Spots are often marked with a sticker and taken to a spot-cleaning area where the garment i

cleaned using steam, hot water, or chemical stain removers.

Some customers request that a garment be fully laundered after it is sewn and assembled; therefore, garment

factories often have an on-site laundry or have subcontract agreements with off-site laundry operations.

Commercial laundry facilities are equipped with at least three types of machines: washers, spinners, and dryer

Some facilities also have the capability to perform special treatments, such as stone- or acid-washing.

Ironing

After a garment is fully sewn and assembled, it is transferred to the ironing section of the facility for final

pressing. Each ironing station consists of an iron and an ironing platform. The irons are similar looking to

residential models, but have steam supplied by an on-site boiler. Workers control the steam with foot

pedals and the steam is delivered via overhead hoses directly to the iron. In most facilities, the ironingplatforms are equipped with a ventilation system that draws steam through the ironing table and exhausts it

outside the factory.

Packaging and Shipping

In the last steps of making a product retail-ready, garments are folded, tagged, sized, and packaged according

customer specifications. Also, garments may be placed in protective plastic bags, either manually or using an

automated system, to ensure that the material stays clean and pressed during shipping. Lastly, garments are

placed in cardboard boxes and shipped to client distribution centers to eventually be sold in retail stores.

Pattern Making
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The appearance and fit of a garment is highly dependent on each process. Patternmaking is one of

the earliest steps in the development of a garment. It is a craft that has evolved over the centuries

into a skilled technical process. Today, patternmaking tools have been carefully tailored to quickly

perform repetitive time-consuming tasks, allowing apparel companies to cater to the fast paced

world of fashion. Nowaydays sophisticated software programs are used for pattern making.

Pattern Making Process

Pattern grading is the scaling of a pattern to a different size by incrementing important points of a

pattern to smaller or bigger sizes.

Once a designer has completed a drawing of a garment, it is transformed into a sample pattern.

"Patternmaking" is the process of creating all the correctly sized pieces needed to make a complet

garment. For many smaller manufacturers, pattern making is still done on paper because the cost

computerized systems remains prohibitive.

The patternmaker may use one of the following techniques to develop a sample pattern. S/he may

"manipulate" a new pattern by using geometric rules to modify or alter existing pattern pieces. S/h

may translate a design that has been "draped" and pinned on a dress form by converting the shape

of the draped garment sections into paper pattern pieces. Alternatively, s/he may pin pieces of

muslin to a garment being copied and rub tailor's chalk over the seams and darts, making a "musli


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The components of the pattern, usually the body and sleeve, are constructed by a draft(technical drawing)

which incorporates the measurements and proportions of the particular system used by the pattern maker. It ca

be produced by a computer.

Modelling

It entails the fitting of the block garment usually in toile, on a workroom stand of the appropriate size, when th

fit balance are satisfactory, motile is removed from the stand and each component is copied on to pattern pape

and the necessary making up allowances added.

Garment Pattern

The styled patterns used for cutting the original sample garments can be developed by

a variety of means, including the flat method, modelling or a combination of both. When using the flat method

thepattern maker introduces style lines of the garment on to a copy of the block pattern, performs the necessar

manipulation and then adds the requisite sewing and other allowances to each component. Notches are made i

related components in the seam lines as guides for alignment and matching during sewing and make-up.

Computerised pattern making

At most large manufacturers, patterns are made on a computer with computer aideddesign (CAD) systems,

the pattern maker manipulating small graphic patterns on the computer screen with a hand-held control device

Geometry drives can make an infinite number of changes to the shapes and sizes the pattern including creatingnew design lines or adding pleats, fullness, and seam allowances.To allow pattern makers to make patterns

manually on a computer, another system has been developed allowing the pattern makerto work life size on a

sensitized table with traditional tools and stylis that is attached to the table and the computer.

The stylis picks up the lines drawn on the table and shows them on the screen. Changes can also be made

directly on the screen.In both cases, patterns are immediately available for other operations such as grading an


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marker making.The essential features of this technology are pattern design and pattern generation systems.

Pattern design system the pattern maker inputs to the system all the block patterns in current use and with the

aid of the computer can construct garment patterns from them.Pattern generation system when the pattern

components for the top cloth have been developed on the computer via pattern design system. The pattern

generation programmer automatically generates the pattern for auxiliary components such as linings and

foibles.

Fabric Inspection for apparel manufacturing

Apparel manufacturers inspect the fabric stock upon arrival, so that any fabric irregularities are

caught early in the production process. Textile producers also generally inspect fabrics before

sending them to manufacturers.

Why is fabric inspection important?

Fabric Inspection is an important aspect followed prior to garment manufacturing to avoid rejects due to

fabric quality and facing with unexpected loss in manufacturing.Fabric inspection is done for fault/defect rate,

fabric construction, fabric weight, shrinkage, end to end or edge to edge shading, colour, hand feel,

length/width, print defect and appearance. Fabric inspection ensures to minimize the rejection of cut panels or

rejected garments due to fabric faults. Cutting inspected and approvedfabric ensures not only finished garmen

quality but also reduce rejects, improves efficiency and timely deliveries.

General Inspection Procedures

1. Fabric inspection is done in suitable and safe environment with enough ventilation and proper lighting2. Fabric passing through the frame must be between 45-60 degree angles to inspector and must be done

on appropriate Cool White light 2 F96 fluorescent bulbs above viewing area. Back light can be used as

and when needed.

3. Fabric speed on inspection machine must not be more than 15 yards per minute.4. All fabric inspection must be done when 80% of good or lot is received.5. Standard approved bulk dye lot standards for all approved lots must be available prior to inspection.6. Approved standard of bulk dye lot must be available before starting inspection for assessing colour,

hand, weight, construction, finish and visual appearance.

7. Shade continuity within a roll by checking shade variation between centre and selvage and thebeginning, middle and end of each roll must be evaluated and documented.

8. Textiles like knits must be evaluated for weight against standard approved weight.


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9. Fabric width must be checked from selvage to selvage against standard.10. All defects must be flagged during inspection11. The length of each roll inspected must be compared to length as mentioned on supplier ticketed tag an

any deviation must be documented and reported to mill for additional replacement to avoid shortage.

12. If yard dyed or printed fabrics are being inspected the repeat measurement must be done frombeginning, middle and end of selected rolls.

Fabric Inspection Guidelines

Fabric inspection focuses on fault/defect rate color, end to end and edge to middle shading,

hand/handle and appearance. The client will select the appropriate fault rate and standard to

determine the acceptance of each shipment. This will minimize the quantity of panels or garmentsrejected for fabric faults, thereby ensuring the quality of the finished goods. The following aspects

are assessed: Color, Fabric Faults,Shading , Usable Width ,Fabric Hand/Handle Length,

Appearance, Packaging,

Fabric Sampling Plan

The following sampling plan lists the minimum quantity of fabric for each pattern, color way, or print, which

must be inspected. All rolls to be sampled will be randomly selected by the inspector. Once a roll has been

selected, no adjustments will be made.

SAMPLE PLANLot Size Yards Inspection Yards Lots Size Meters Inspection Meters Percentage of Total Lot

0 - 2,500 not less than 500 0 - 2,300 not less than 460 20%

2,501 - 5,000 251 - 500 2,301 - 4500 230 - 450 10%

5,001 - 20,000 400 - 1,600 4,50118,300 360 - 1465 8%

20,001 - 30,000 1,200 - 1,800 18,30127,400 1,1001,645 6%

All inspected rolls will be identified with an inspection tag. This tag may not be removed by anyone prior to thproduction cutting.

Fabric Inspection Documentation


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To ensure proper documentation on the Inspection report the following should be correctly recorded.

Mill Name Fabric P.O. Number Mill / Supplier roll number Roll length

Ticketed Actual Difference between ticketed and actual

Recorded cuttbale width 1st MeasurementAt the start of the roll at least 2 meters or yards into the roll 2nd MeasurementAt the middle of the roll 3rd MeasurementAt the end of the roll at least 2 meters or yards before the end

Number of defect points per roll by 4 point system Defect result calculated by roll in points/ 100 Sq Yards/Meters Inspector comments if any per roll

Product Design

Garment designers begin to materialize their ideas using hand sketches, off-the-rack

garments, technical drawings, three-dimensional draping on dress forms, or computer-aided design(CAD)

Product Design

Many apparel companies hire both merchandisers and designers as pa

of their design and development team. Merchandisers often oversee and guide the design team to determine

what, when, and how much apparel to produce. At planning meetings, designers use concept boards to prese


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their ideas to the development and management teams. These concept boards are typically collages of color

and fabric swatches, fashion sketches, and magazines photos that capture the theme or mood of the design

ideas. Previous season's sales figures,sales forecasts for the new season, and the overall outlook of upcoming

seasons will also be discussed in these planning sessions.

Designers begin to materialize their ideas using hand sketches, off-the-rack garments, technical drawings,

three-dimensional draping on dress forms, or computer-aided design (CAD). CAD is becoming increasingly

popular, partially due to the ease with which images can be redrawn, altered, and modified; and partially

attributable to the active marketing efforts of apparel computer system manufacturers such as Gerber

Technology, Lectra Systems, Pad Systems, Inc., Snap Fashun and Tukatech, Inc.

After the design team reviews the line, designers transform those final designs destined for actual production

into sample garments. If the product is to be made offshore, the final designs are translated into garment

specification sheets. A garment specification sheet consists of all the important information required to

complete a pattern and prototype of the design. Increasingly, garment specification software programs facilita

this process.

Developmens in Product Design

CAD and CAM are two technologies that have made prominent changes in the way garment manufacturing

was done in previous eras. Today all large garment manufacturing companies have developed CAD/CAM

system to do the process of garment manufacturing. CAD is an abbreviation for computer-aided design andCAM for computer-aided machine. CAD/CAM is computer software that controls the production of garments

In CAD the designer designs the garments by using any suitable software like Adobe Photoshop,

Adobe Illustrator, Corel Draw etc and in CAM the cutters, sewers, graders and markers control the process of

development.

The designer creates 2-D or 3-D model of design in CAD and CAM as a software numerically controls the

machines that generates the production.

There are several advantages of CAD/CAM over manual method of designing and production of garments:

The expense and time is reduced in a considerable manner when compared to the laborious manualwork of designing.

Designing can be done from anywhere as the designers are able to control the process from remote


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locations as well.

The data can be easily stored, transmitted, and transported through computer files.

Digital swatches can be saved on floppy disks, zip disks, CD-ROM or hard drive thus saving space.Moreover they can be easily organized for fast and easy retrieval.

The designs can be easily customized and personalized as corrections and editing can be done at anytime without significant delays or cost increases.

The designers don't need to produce swatches all the time as they can now see how a particular fabric garment looks in different colors and shapes on computer screen itself.

Spreading - layering the fabrics

Fabric spreading is very important part of the production process because it is basic for obtaining a

high quality final product. Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, w

tables in preparation for cutting each piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated

by the number of garments desired and the fabric thickness. Fabric Spreading Machines are used f

bulk production.

Spreading or Laying

Spreading is the process of unwinding large rolls of fabric onto long, wide tables in preparation for cutting eac

piece of a garment. The number of layers of fabric is dictated by the number of garments desired and the fabri

thickness. Spreading can be done by hand or machine. Depending upon the fabric and cutting technology, up t

200 layers of fabric may be cut at one time. Fabrics that are more difficult to handle are generally cut in thinne

stacks.

Spreading and cutting is smooth laying out of fabric

in superimposed layers or piles of specified length. The cutting marker is laid on the topmost layer. The


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maximum cutting width is the usable fabric width minus selvedge or needle marks caused by stencil marks.

Fabric utilization is the amount of fabric actually utilized in the marker as the percentage of the total fabric

area.

Types of Lay Plan

Half Garment Lay includes only half of the garment pieces for example one side left or right. Generally used fotubular fabrics.

Whole Garment Lay includes garment pieces, left and right sides. Generally used for Open width fabrics. Single Size Lay is used using all garment pieces of one single size. Disadvantageous as the consumption of fab

is higher.

Types of Lay

Single Ply is a single layer of fabric generally to make samples Multiple Ply is a number of fabric layers stacked on one top of other Stepped Lay is multiple lay in which groups of layers have different lengths generally used for getting best

utilization and consumption of fabric.

Forms of Spreading

One Way Cutting is when fabric is laid the same way up with grain or print pattern running in the samedirection. Fabric has to be cut at the end of each ply.

Fact to Face Cutting is when the plies are laid in pairs face to face. The grain or pattern runs in the samedirection.

Two Way Cutting is when plies are laid continuously from left to right and right to left without cutting at theend. Most Efficient method of spreading. Cannot be used with grain restrictions or one directional printed

fabric.

Presentation of Fabrics

Presentation depends on type of materials, their application. Generally fabrics are Open width (rolled), Double

(wound) and Tubular (plaited)


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Ideal Layheight for cutting

Fabric weight Woven Knits

Heavy Weight 4-5" 5-4"

Med Weight 3-4" 3-3.5"

Light Weight 2.5-3" 2-2.25"

Pattern Grading

Pattern Grading is the process where bypatterns of different sizes are produced from the original

master pattern. This process can be performed manually or automatically by a computerizedsystem.Patterns are graded according to size charts which present the sizes and the average

measurements of the population group for which the garments are intended.In order to produce

garment that fits various body types and sizes, thepattern pieces must be increased or decreased

geometrically to create a

What is Pattern Grading?

Patterns initially are made in only one size. In order to produce clothing that fits various body types and sizes,

the pattern pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create a complete range of sizes. The proceof resizing the initial pattern is called "grading." Each company determines its own grade specifications for

each size, and size specifications vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Grading is the method used to increase or decrease the sample size production pattern to make up a complete

size range. For example, the sample size 10 patterns must be made larger to accommodate sizes 12, 14 and 16

and smaller for sizes 8 and 6. Each company sets predetermined grade specifications, or rules. For example, a

missy manufacturersgrade rules might call for increments of one and a half inches in width and a quarter

inchin length for each size.

Today most manufacturers grade pattern on CAD systems. The pattern maker guides a cursor around the edge

of the sample pattern on a digitized table. At each of the key points, he or she pushes a button to record a grad

point. Each point is cross referenced by a grade-rule table stored in the computer, which enlarges or reduces

the patternautomatically according to the predetermined direction.If the pattern was originally made by

computer, data are already in the computer and can be enlarged or reduced automatically.


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Pre-programmed grade rules for increase or decrease are automatically applied to the pieces of each grading

location. Then the computer can print out the pattern in each new size. Manufacturers often use an out side

service to make patterns, grade patterns, and make the marker

Although many small firms still use traditional grading methods, grading, like patternmaking, is becoming

increasingly computerized. Using a CAD system, the patterncan be resized according to a predetermined table

of sizing increments (or "grade rules"). The computerized plotter can then print out the pattern in each size.

Because the productivity gains are so great, small to medium-sized manufacturers are beginning to acquire the

own CAD systems for grading.

Alternatively, they may use an outside grading service to perform this function.

Shrinkage

When fabric is cut for making garments, it is important to ensure that fabric is fully relaxed and is not subjecte

to any additional tension or strain during rolling or unrolling while layering for cutting. So fabrics are often

relaxed prior to cutting to ensure that the shrinkage is minimized in a garment. Garments which are unwashed

and can shrink while laundering at customers end are made with measurements with shrinkage tolerance

included. Woven fabric garments typically shrink just a little . This will usually be about 2-3% which is fairlyunnoticeable. Knits that are not garment dyed will be more effected by washing and drying. Shrinkage for kni

fabrics can be anywhere from 1-8% and 95% of thisshrinkage will take place the first time it is laundered. In

these cases shrinkage is incorporated in all the patterns of a garment. This shrinkage incorporated

in patternscould be lengthwise or width wise depending on type of fabric.

Shrinkage adjusting

Shrinkage adjustments should not distort the original shape and balance of the patterns. When shrinkage is

applied to a panel in garment all corresponding patterns must also be applied with shrinkage adjustments.

Shrinkage Incorporation in Pattern Grading


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Grading and shrinkage incorporation in a pattern is very important and plays a big role in not only getting

correct fit and drape of a garment but also measurements as graded specs. Pattern grading is a technique of

scaling a pattern to reproduce a pattern in other sizes. It must be done accurately. To properly fit a pattern to a

range of sizes, each patternpiece needed to be graded, or systematically increased or decreased. The purpose o

grading is to proportionally increase or decrease the size of a pattern, while maintaining shape, fit, balance and

scale of style details. Its important to remember that grading only makes a shape larger or smaller and isnt

intended to change a shape. Grading also reflects the fact that individuals of different sized are proportionately

different, not uniformly different.

Stacking or 0 point for grading

For grading it is important to have stack point which will define the x or y grading ofpattern. It is defined

as 0 point located at the centre of the pattern of a Front, back or sleeve panel. For centre front it is

perpendicular to the centre of check line. For sleeve the 0 point is centre of sleeve at the bicep line.

Length Grade

Front and back neck drop is applied to shoulder neck point. Shoulder line should remain parallel between size Body length is distributed between the shoulder neck point and the bottom. Grading is divided between

shoulder/beck point, neck drop, armhole, waist, hip and bottom. Body length combined grading is total of

centre front length and neck drop.

Neck width is applied at the shoulder neck point it is always parallel to check line.

Armhole curve is combined measurement of armhole width and armhole height gradeSleeve Grade

Sleeve armhole is combined measurement of sleeve cap height grade and sleeve bicep grade along the armhocurve.

Sleeve length from shoulder is distributed between the sleeve cap and bottom sleeve edge. Sleeve cap gradeapplied above bicep line and sleeve cap while balance length is divided between bicep line and sleeve cuff.

Pattern Markings

Marking refers to the process of placingpattern pieces to maximize the number ofpatterns that can

cut out of a given piece of fabric in order to make garments.Pattern making is a highly skilled

technique which calls for technical ability, sensitivity for design interpretation and


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a practicalunderstanding of the process technology used by the factory. Industrial patternmaking h

two basic type

Pattern Markings

Once the pattern is graded, the fabric must be prepared for cuttin

In order to spread the fabric properly, the spreader must know how the patternpieces will be placed on the

fabric. "Marking" refers to the process of placing pattern pieces to maximize the number of patterns that can bcut out of a given piece of fabric. Firms strive for "tight" markers largely because fabric is one of a

manufacturer's most significant business costs, often exceeding the cost of labor. Although markers can

be made by hand or using CAD software, the computerized method is up to eight times faster. Once a marker

completed, a CAD system can use a plotter to print a full size layout on a long sheet of paper. This layout

becomes the guide for the cutter.

Computer software helps the technicians create the optimum fabric layout to suggest so fabric can be used

efficiently. Markers, made in accordance to the patterns are attached to the fabric with the help of adhesive

stripping or staples. Markers are laid in such a way so that minimum possible fabric gets wasted during cutting

operation. After marking the garment manufacturer will get the idea of how much fabric he has to order in

advance for the construction of garments. Therefore careful execution is important in this step.

Computer marking is done on speciallized softwares. In computerized marking there is no need of large paper

sheets for calculating the yardage, in fact, mathematical calculations are made instead to know how much

fabric is required.

Not every marking is on every pattern because some are specific to a certain style or construction technique.

Layout and cutting markings don't need to be transferred to the fabric. Construction markings, on the other

hand, are very helpful during the sewing process and transferring them to the fabric is a good idea.

Pre-Layout Markings

Pattern Adjustment Lines: Two parallel lines that indicate where you can lengthen or shorten a pattern piec


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to maintain the original shaping. This should be done before layout.

Waistline Marking: A short solid line that indicates the natural waistline of the wearer. During tissue-fitting,

the waistline is not in the same position as the pattern marking, adjustment may be needed on

the Pattern Adjustment Lines.

Making the marker

Marker making is the creation of cutting temples for the various parts o

a garment. This may be done on thecard board or paper, the former being more durable. In some cases marker

are made on continuous rolls of paper for efficiency.Form all the pattern pieces of varying size, a master

marker is made. The marker is the cutting guide or pattern. Lay out made on a sheet or light weight paper the

same width asthe fabric. The purpose of the marker is three fold:

To make a lay out for the cutter to allow To place pattern pieces close together to avoid fabric waste To accommodate the cutting order (ensuring that the correct quantities of each size are cut).

The desire economical use of space is called a tight marker, which utilizes the highestpercentage of fabric

possible to avoid waste. Patterns are laid out so that each size andcolour is cut as needed (popular sizes are

repeated on the marker). Grain direction, one-way prints, plaids, strips, and naps are considered in making the

marker.Computerized marker making. Most manufacturers now make their marker on a CAD system or have

made by an outside service. Miniatures of the graded pattern pieces are displayed graphically on the computer

screen. The operator can electronically position the pattern pieces in to the most efficient arrangement.

Once the marker is completed, a full-scale marker is printed by the plotter on a long sheet of paper.

General information on the Pattern marking

Not every marking is on every pattern because some are specific to a certain style or construction technique.

Layout and cutting markings don't need to be transferred to the fabric. Construction markings, on the other


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hand, are very helpful during the sewing process and transferring them to the fabric is a good idea.

Every pattern piece has general information printed in the center. Each piece is numbered and the number

indicates the order in which the pieces are sewn together.

For example:

Skirt Front 1 is joined to Skirt Back 2.

Other helpful information includes:

Pattern brand and style number View letter (if there is more than one view) Size Name of the piece (skirt front, sleeve, pleat underlay, etc.) and its number Cutting information (cut one on fold, cut two, etc.) Lining/interfacing information (if applicable)

Construction Marking of fabric

After cutting, there are several patternmarkings that help us put the project together accurately. No

all markings will be found on every project, as some are specific to a particular construction

technique. Some construction markings need to be transferred to the fabric so they will be visible f

placement and sewing; others, like seamlines, small arrows, etc. do not need to be transferred, only

heeded during assembly. Check the patterndirections for more specific marking needs.

Construction Marking

Name Description

Seamline This broken line, usually 5/8" (or desired seam allowance) from the cutting line

indicates where to join the pieces. Many patterns, especially multi-size ones, do

not have seamlines drawn on thepatterns.

Small Arrows are on some seamlines to indicate stitching direction. For

example, on a side seamline the arrow would point toward the hem.

Notches These diamond or trapezoid shaped symbols were used to layout pieces

when pattern matching is an issue , but they are also used to help position

adjoining project pieces for seaming.


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Dots (sometimes squares

and triangles)

These indicate special construction (clipping, gathering, stay stitching) orprecise matching needs. They are usually found near the seamline and in dart

markings.

Dart Broken lines and dots indicate exact stitching location and make it easy tomatch up the two sides for stitching.

Buttons and Buttonholes A solid line with dash marks at each end is used to mark buttonholes and large

xs mark button locations.

Hemline : The hemline is a solid line near the lower edge (often 3" above the cuttingline) and it indicates where to fold the hem so the garment is the length

indicated on the pattern envelope. The hemline is not always drawn in, but the

depth may be written along the lower edge cutting line.

Zipper Placement An illustration of zipper teeth indicates where to insert the zipper.

Pleat Symbols Two vertical lines with an arrow between them indicate how wide to fold the

pleat and in which direction.

Construction and Detail Placement Lines

Some of the various types of construction detail placement line are as follows:-

Solid or broken lines within the body of the pattern piece indicate construction details and placements. Foldline without brackets indicates where the fabric will fold,such as in the center of the waistband. Roll Line shows where the fabric will crease to make a soft fold, as along a lapel. Center Front or Center Back lines show where the garment will fall on the center of the body. Placement Lines show where to place details such as patch pockets, flaps, casings, and decorative trim

The Marking Standards
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Accurate marking throughout garment construction is extremely important.Thisprocess begins wit

marking patternsymbols.How and where to mark the garment will aid in putting the garment

together.Marking should be done as soon as the garment sections have been cut and before

the pattern pieces have been removed.Pattern symbols to be marked include darts, pleats,tucks, an

matchingcircles.Beginners should also mark seam lines. In some situations, marking a seamline is

important to even the most

Marking Standards

Standards A well-marked item:

will have markings appropriate for the fabric. Select a type and substance that will not damage thefabric and can be removed easily after construction.

shows only on the wrong side of fabric, or does not damage or compromise the appearance on the righside after construction is complete.

has distinctive, accurate marks to aid in the sewing process.

Text/HTML

Accurate marking throughout garment construction is extremely important.This processbegins with

marking pattern symbols.How and where you mark the garment will aid in putting the garment

together.Marking should be done as soon as the garment sections have been cut and before the pattern pieceshave been removed.Pattern symbols to be marked include darts, pleats,tucks, and

matching circles.Beginners should also mark seam lines. In some situations, marking a seamline is important

even the most experienced sewer.

There are several methods of marking fabric.The method selected depends on thefabric,your skill, and the construction situation. No one method is suitable for all fabrics. It is not uncommon t

use more than one method in a single garment. Always test the marking method on a fabric scrap before using

it. Some methods can damage delicate fabrics. Other may encourage layers of fabric to shift so you will not

have the same markings on all layers. With some methods, you may Also lose the marking before you have th


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garment assembled. Consider the following as you select a marking method.

Tracing wheel and dressmakers tracing paper is suitable only for firmly woven fabrics. It is especially good fo

woven linings and interfacing. (Figure 16) Figure 16 It is not appropriate for:

Sheers or light colors as marking may show through to the right side. Knits or stretch fabrics as marking will not be accurate because of the stretchiness of the fabric. Woolens may be too thick for tracing to transfer well. Silk/silk-like or napped fabrics because the Ateeth@ from the wheel may pick or mar the fabric. You

may be able to use a smooth wheel. Always test before using.

Tailor's tacks take a lot of time but are the best choice for delicate fabrics. Tailor's tacks are used to

mark circles on high quality fabrics and fabrics that are loosely

constructed. To make:

Use a hand needle with double thread (unknotted). At each circle (dot on pattern) take a stitch through both fabric layers forming a 1-inch loop,

leaving about 2 inches of thread at the beginning and at the end. (Figure 17)

Gently pull off the pattern piece, being careful not to disturb loops. Pull the two fabric layers apart.

Clip the thread between the two layers of fabric, so each layer has a marking.(Figure 18)Tailor's tacks are NOT a suitable marking method for fabrics that are damaged by pin holes.

Pin marking is faster, but you must be very accurate and carefnot to "lose" the pins. On some fabrics the pins will pull through or cause damage to the

fabric.Pins can be used for marking provided they are accurately inserted. This method is

usually for the more accomplished sewer. However, it is not a suitable method for some fabricsThis method is not appropriate when:

o The fabric shows pin holes or markings.o The fabric is delicate and easily damaged.o The fabric is loosely woven or knitted. Pins can slip "through" it easily.


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o The pattern requires lines to be marked.Directions for how to pin mark:

o Insert pins into all circle markings on thepattern. (Figure19)

o Turn garment piece over and insert another pin where the first pin is. This marks bothgarment pieces when pattern has been cut on double-thickness.

o Unpin pattern pieces from the fabric and gently pull pin heads through the paper

o Pull garment sections apart. (Figure 21) Insert pinsinto fabric while stay stitching,or immediately fold to form dart, matchingpins.

Tailor's Chalk, Dressmaker=s Pencils, Soap SliversTailor's chalk, dressmaker's pencils, and soap slivers are primarily used for marking widths, su

as hems and seams since they only mark one layer at a time. Each of these easily rubs off, so be

careful. Some individuals combine one or more of these methods with pins, marking at the

pin marking and then removing the pin. Soap slivers can be used in place of tailor's chalk or

dressmaker's pencil.

Marking pens should be washable. Read the package directions carefully since some markingsdisappear after a few hours. Pens are used the same way as tailor's chalk,marking pencils and

soap slivers. Fabric marking pens may or may not wash out and are only as accurate as you are

Soap slivers are ideal, especially for washable fabrics.

Careful attention to your pattern layout,cutting, and marking will ensure

a garment that is on grain, the "same" color or shading for all garment pieces, and a balanced design throughout.


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General Rules for Success:

Always test on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use. Select dressmaker's tracing paper as close to the color of your fabric as possible. Be sure to mark only on the wrong side of the fabric. Mark only the underlining material,when underlining a garment.

Remember: No one method is suitable for all fabrics. Select the one most suited for your fabric, skill

and construction situation.

Garment Costing

Costing is a very complex procedure, with set patterns and guidelines followed by the industry, an

it is difficult to find out costs for every processas there are some inbuilt costs while costing.Garme

costing includes all the activities like purchase of raw materials and accessories, knitting fabrics,

processing and finishing of fabrics, sewing and packing of garments, transport and conveyance,

shipping, over heads, banking charges and commissions, etc.

Introduction

Costing includes all the activities like purchase of raw materials and accessories, knitting fabrics, processing

and finishing of fabrics, sewing and packing of garments, transport and conveyance, shipping, over heads,

banking charges and commissions, etc.

To do perfect garment costing, one must know about all these activities thoroughly about their costs,

procedures, advantages and risk factors. Also he must know how to solve the problems when occurred and to

take suitable alternate decision immediately in time.

We must be aware that there are always fluctuations in the costs of raw materials and accessories, charges of

knitting, processing, finishing, sewing and packing, charges of transport and conveyance. Hence we must hav

update knowledge about the latest pricesand charges, latest procedures, methods and quality systems, market

prices and availability, transportation (road, sea, air) and freight charges, etc.

We must remember that the quality depends on price; price depends on quality. Each product will have

different price according to its quality. We do not manufacture only one quality of garments. Also we

manufacture the garments not only for one customer.While we do the garment costing, the customers price


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level, quality & quantity and payment terms, to be taken into consideration.

There are two types of garments, namely woven and knitted garments. Shirt, trouser, sarees, bedspreads,

blankets, towels and made ups are woven. T-shirts, sweaters, undergarments, pyjamas andsocks are

knits.Costing is the deciding factor for fixing of prices and the important thing to follow in all stages like

purchase, production, marketing, sales, etc. Also update knowledge about everything related togarments, is

essential to make perfect costing.Costing includes all the activities like purchase of fabrics and accessories,

processing and finishingof fabrics, sewing and packing of garments, transport and conveyance, shipping, over

heads, bankingcharges and commissions, etc.We must be aware that there are always fluctuations in the costs

of raw materials and accessories,charges of knitting, processing, finishing, sewing and packing, charges of

transport and conveyance.The method of making costing will vary from style to style. As there are many

different styles in garments.

Costing Essentials

The method of making costing will vary from style to style. As there are many different styles in garments, it

not possible here to discuss about all the styles. Hence let us take some following styles as examples which ar

in regular use.

1. Mens Basic T shirts,2. Mens Printed Polo shirts,3. Ladies Night dress,4. Mens Pyjamas,5. Mens Solid Pique Polo shirts,6. Ladies yarn striped T shirts (Feeder stripes)7. Boys yarn striped T shirts (Engineering stripes)

Based on these methods, costings can be made for other styles too. Let us see them in detail now.

To make the garment costing, we have to find out following things.

1. Fabric consumption.2. Gross weight of other components of garment.3. Fabric cost per kg.4. Fabric cost per garment.


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5. Other charges (print, embroidery, etc.)6. Cost of trims (labels, tags, badges, twill tapes, buttons, bows, etc.)7. CMT charges8. Cost of accessories (hangers, inner boards, polybags, cartons, etc)9. Cost of a garment.10.Price of a garment.

Costs to Consider

1. Direct cost: Cost of raw material -- 66%. Cost of size and chemicals - 4%. Production cost comprisingof running the machine, maintenance, power fuel, humidification and other utilities -- 8 % and worker

wages and salaries -- 8% losses incurred due to shrinkage, wastage, grading, and also selling

commissions.

2. Indirect cost : Interest on investment, loan, working capital, depreciation, etc. Above 7%, overheadsand administrative expenses like travelling, telephone, couriers, legal issues, taxes comprising of 7%.

3. Profit: 10 - 20% depending on the order size. In some companies, 70% of the fabric cost will comprisof direct cost, but in corporate selling only 40% cost of the fabric is direct cost and 60% is overheads.

Conclusion

There are set patterns and guidelines followed by the industry. It is difficult to find out costs for every process

as there are some inbuilt costs while costing. A larger picture has been taken into account while quoting thecost. Costing depends a lot on quantity and order received. Indirect cost is about 15 - 20%. On top of the cost

profit of 15 - 20% is added. It is not only the cost of the final product that matters, for exports the cost is

generally given as FAS, FOB, CIF and LDP.

FAS (Free along Side) means: It is the cost of finished goods plus it includes the delivery of the goods to port


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dock, etc. The price does not include loading into the ship, etc, or the shipping or any other charges incurred

from that point on.

FOB (Free on Board): It is the cost of finished goods, cost of delivery of the goods to port and loading onto th

ship, plane, etc. The cost does not include the shipping or any other costs incurred from that point on.

CIF (Cost Insurance and Freight): It includes the cost of finished goods plus it includes the delivery of the

goods to the port, loading on the ship, shipping charges, all applicable insurance fees along the way. The price

does not include going through customs or any duties or other costs incurred from that point.

LDP (Landed & Duty Paid): It is the cost of the finished goods, plus it includes the delivery of the goods to

port, loading on the ship, shipping charges and the goods brought through the customs with all applicable duti

and taxes paid.

Lead time plays an important part in the domestic and export market. Generally for production of greige fabri

the lead time is 30 days. Processing time for grey fabric is 15 - 20 days but when the buyer needs something

urgently then the above costing parameters sometimes are not significant; It depends on demand and supply.

Garment Product costing

How much does it cost to make a garment is something you have to know before you get too far in the proces

It goes without saying, the simplest garments cost less to make. As styling details are added; pockets, fancy

seaming, linings and trims etc, the cost of the finished garment will increase labor cost in production. If you

have chosen an expensive fabric for one of your designs, it would be wise to keep the details to a minimum.

Using expensive fabric and many styling details often makes the finished cost of the garment too high for the

market which has been

Intro to Apparel

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