Interpretation of Tech Pack 09.09.17

Presented by Ravikeerthi Rao1

Documents

Documents we get from the buyers are:

Manuals/ work instruction

Tech file

Spec sheet

Reference sample

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Documents

What is the next step ?

The merchandiser :

analyses the T/F and the Reference sample,

prepares the costing sheet, and

quote an initial price to the buyer.

This price is based on :

the estimated production and material costs, but

is also influenced by how much the customer is expected

to pay.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/282604549_Cost_Analysis_in_Garment_I

ndustry3

The merchandiser negotiates with the buyer

until a price is finalized which is agreeable to

both parties.

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Price Negotiation

Specification Sheet /spec sheet

A specification sheet contains the measurement

details of a particular style that is needed to

prepare the pattern.

Some specification sheets also provide the

measurement gradation between sizes and give

the detailed size gradation for the garments.

However, it does not say other details that goes in

to apparel style detailing.

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Specification Sheet /spec sheet

Example of a garment specification sheet.

As you can see on the image the measurement spec sheet only reveals on measurement parameters.

This sheet only helps in creating the garment patterns and sample development.

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Tech Pack

Think of a Tech Pack as the blueprint for eachgarment.

Just as a builder would never just start building ahouse without a detailed plan, a designer shouldnever produce a garment without a detailed TechPack.

The Tech Pack tells the producer (factory) all theinformation that’s needed to successfully transformyour design into a product that’s exactly howdesigner envisioned it.

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What is a Tech Pack ?

Tech Pack is a detailed instruction to create apparelstarting from scratch.

Buyer must specify fabric details, washing and washcare, prints, labeling, packaging, – every small andimportant detail she can provide to a clothingmanufacturer to make sure her production piececomes right.

This gives complete information about the garmentstyle to clothing manufacturer and will reduce time toproduce and minimize costly errors and oversights.

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Tech Pack

What to look in the T/F

Rendered illustration – flat sketch ( front view – back view – 2D)

Fabric quality – GSM, Composition, Structure, etc

Color combo – various color options of the garments

Stitching & construction detailing (both front and back and close ups on features)

Graphic /print detailing including print type, placement & Pantone number (style dependent)

Embroidery/appliqué /other embellishment detailing

Washing / Special finishes requirements

Trims & packaging details

Branding details – Labels & Tags

Graphical measurement details with spec sheet pointers.

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What to look in the T/F

Careful study & understanding of Tech Packs will:

○ reduce errors in production,

○ reduce issues with communication, and

○ ultimately can save you tons of money and

frustration.

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Fabric consumption

Fabric cost bears approximately 40% to 45% of

the total cost of any garment. So calculation of

correct fabric consumption is very important.

In most of the Indian apparel factories the fabric

consumption is calculated by pattern masters.

Average fabric consumption depends on nature of

the fabric, like tubular or open width fabric,

whether fabric is solid colored, check or stripe or

any specific design repeat required.

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Fabric consumption

Consumption is also calculated using CAD.

When buyer gives the enquiry along with the tech-

pack, merchandiser will give the tech-pack to the

CAD department for marker preparation.

From the tech-pack the CAD department will

develop the pattern for base size e.g. M size by

using the measurement sheet provided and

calculate the consumption.

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Fabric consumption

Technicians manipulate pattern images on

computer screens and experiment with various

configurations to determine the best fabric

utilization (and reduce the consumption).

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Fabric consumption

Computerized marker making is :

more accurate ,

provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation,

marker efficiency,

reuse of previously made markers, and

shortest response time.

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Fabric consumption

Development of marker is a time consuming

process since costing should be submits to the

buyer within the given time frame.

Determining the consumption by using CAD is

time consuming and hence merchandiser follows

some mathematical methods to calculate the

fabric consumption.

For knitted fabric consumption following formula is

suggested for calculation of fabric consumption.

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Fabric consumption

Fabric Consumption Calculation Formula: To find out the apparel weight or fabric

consumption, we should apply the following twoformulas.

By adding equation- (A) and equation (B), we willget the required fabric consumption for round neckt-shirt.

Here,

S.A means Seam allowance,

T.L means Total length,

H.A means Hem allowance,

S.L means Sleeve length.

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Fabric consumption for T-Shirt”

Fabric consumption calculation (A in Kgs)

[{S.L + T.L + (2 × S.A) + (2× H.A)} × (Chest + S.A)] × G.S.M × 2

……………………………………………………………………......……… 10000

And,

Round neck collar fabric consumption calculation, (B in Kgs)

{(Collar width + S.A) × (Neck round + S.A) × G.S.M × 2}

…………………………………………....…………………… 10000

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Fabric consumption

For Polo, the difference is the collar & the placket.

Flat knit collar fabric consumption (2×2 Rib fabric),

{(Collar width + S.A) × Neck round × G.S.M}

………………………………………………… …..… 10000

N.B: We have to multiply by 2, because flat knit collar is single layer fabric.

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Fabric consumption

And,

Flat placket fabric consumption calculation (Pique fabric),

{(Placket width + S.A) × (Placket length + S.A) × G.S.M × 3}

…………………………………………………………...……..… …

10000

N.B: There is 3 or 4 fold in placket. As a result, it is multiplied by 3 or 4.

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Sewing thread consumption

Sewing thread consumption calculation is one of

the most important factors in apparel

merchandising.

Sewing thread consumption can be calculated by

following four methods:

Stitch and unravel method.

Stitch and measure method,

Arithmetic method,

Using software programme.

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1. Stitch and Unravel Method:

In this method, at first the fabric is first sewn up to

a standard length say for 10cm or 20cm. then the

stitched sewing thread is unraveled fully and then

the length of the sewing thread is measured. This

is more time consuming method.

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2. Stitch and Measure Method:

In case of this method, a standard length of

sewing thread is taken or marked; say for

example, 5 meters or 10 meters. Then it is sewn

fully till the sewing thread is finished or the mark is

reached in the sewing needle. Now, measure the

length of the stitch length.

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3. Arithmetical Method:

In this method, sewing thread requirement may becalculated using the parameters like stitch length,stitch width, stitch depth or height and stitches perinch or cm.

Sewing thread consumption,

= {(Stitch length + stitch width + stitch depth) ×stitch per inch or cm}

But this method is difficult for stitches wheremultiple sewing threads are used.

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4. Using Software Programme:

The sewing thread software programme is used to

calculate the sewing thread requirement in an

effective way.

Sewing thread requirement can be quickly and

easily can be calculated without much effort.

All one needs to do is just enter the required seam

positions that are to be calculated and the

respective parameters.

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Approval Process

Through the T/F (Bill of Material - BOM) we will get

to know the list of all the materials to be used in

the garment.

Most of the cases, i.e. except in the cases of

nominated vendors, we need to develop these

materials locally.

Merchandiser need to get the approvals

/confirmation from the buyer for all these materials

before proceeding for the bulk production.

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Proto / Fit Sample

One of the important approval is of Proto / Fit

Sample.

In the T/F the designer put all the information

that’s needed to successfully transform her design

into a product exactly how she envisioned it. It is

in 2D format (in paper).

Proto is the first stage, where the factory will

transform her design into a product (in 3D form).

Through the Proto sample the designer will able to

compare and see what she has envisioned is

possible or not in 3D.

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Proto / Fit Sample

One of the major challenges for any fashion

company is ensuring that the fit of a garment is as

close as possible to its target customer.

In most cases, this implies providing a sample to

the client for a fit session.

Retailers and brands use human fit models to fit

sessions.

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Proto Sample

Why Proto Sample?

Ensures manufacturer and apparel brand are on

the same page

Leads to more accuracy and fewer rejections

Saves time and money

Protects against misinterpretation on style

detailing

Expressively improves efficiency and productivity

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Proto Sample

Proto sample is made in available similar fabrics

but in the actual measurements and specifications.

in one size, as specified by the buyer.

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Sampling Section

Sample garments are

usually produced by a small section called

sampling section ,

supervised by the pattern master and/or

designer, and,

This section has an important role in determining

the order booking.

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Importance of Proto to the factory

By making this sample the factory learn about the:

style,

its construction,

machine requirement, and

processes to be used to make quality product.

While making this sample the factory can also

learn what are all difficulties may come at the time

of bulk production and suggest the alternate

options to the buyers / get their approval to avoid

the problem at later stage.

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Importance of Proto to the factory

During the development of Proto sample the patterns maybe altered and perfected to rectify faults discovered in theT/F and / or to reduce the material consumption / CMT.

Minor modifications to the design / pattern may also bedone to allow existing machinery to be utilized, to avoidthe purchase of special type of machine, which the newstyle feature requires and the factory does not possess.

At the same time the suitability of the intended fabrics andprocess is established for mass production.

At the sampling stage, the quantities of fabric andtrimmings are re-established (to place the order for thesame).

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Proto Sample – what is checked

The Proto sample is scrutinized to evaluate

whether they fit in with the overall picture the

company wants to present in this collection /

theme.

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The application of linings and interlinings, padding

and fastenings

Technical aspects of sewing, such as :

○ Stitch type

○ the quality and structure of the seams,

○ reinforcement of edges, and

○ securing of pockets and different parts.

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Depending on the machinery and the skill of a factory’ssewers, production quality can vary greatly.

By analyzing the Proto, one can assess theTechnological capability of the factory and what it canor cannot produce.

Buyer may not choose your factory based solely onthe lowest price, but she will also want to evaluatehow well you can execute her actual design(s). Protocomes handy for this assessment.

And hence, in many cases, the order is confirmed afterProto sample.

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Virtual prototyping

Today, apparel manufacturers are under pressure to reduce time tomarket and optimize products to higher levels of performance andreliability.

With technological advancements it is very easy to communicatewith buyer at very low cost and within very short period of time evenat sampling stage.

Proto typing is first stage where only aesthetics are judged insample; hence virtual prototyping is effective and time saving wayto communicate with buyer without sending physical sample.

Virtual prototyping is a technique in the process of productdevelopment.

Virtual prototyping is an emerging technology in today’s rapidchanging world

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What are the other approvals:

Fabric Quality

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Fabric Quality approval

The fabric greatly influence the character of

clothing and hence, the quality & type of fabric

selected based on its possible end-use.

Pattern, Structure & Surface Texture, weight

(GSM), etc. has to be approved by the buyer first.

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GSM:

The amount of raw material used to make a fabric

is reflected by the weight or the GSM (gram/sq

meter) of the fabric.

For the same variety of the fabric as the GSM

increases, the cost increases.

However, when the yarn becomes very fine, the

cost of spinning and weaving supersedes the role

of GSM.

So even when the GSM is similar, the cost of

fabric with finer yarns is more.

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COUNT OF YARN:

The yarn cost will depend on the count of the yarn—the finer

the yarn, the more expensive it can get.

Combed yarns are more expensive than carded yarns

because yarn realization is only about 70 percent due to the

removal of short fibers, while it is almost 88 percent in the

case of carded yarn.

All finer counts above 40 are generally combed yarns.

The sizing cost also depends upon the count of the yarns. As

the count becomes finer, the size and chemical cost

increases because better quality size and chemicals are

required for better strength.

http://sourcemygarment.com/blog-posts/fibres-to-fabric-the-cost-of-fabric-production

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Fabric Quality approval – why?

Yarn used can be Combed or Semi-combed or Carded,where in the combed yarn is finest quality and theresults in fine & smooth output of fabric.

The yarn quality varies from mill to mill and is the price.

The variation in yarn quality is also because the cottonmight from different regions, having differentproperties.

The desired fabric weight can be achieved withdifferent combination of yarn type, count, gauge butthey will have distinctive effect on the quality of thefabric (and on cost of the fabric).

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Colour Approvals

In order to get the conformation about bulk

producibility, merchandiser ensures the colour

communication, which includes :

○ Lad-dip,

○ desk-loom,

○ print-strike off,

○ knit down,

○ art work.

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Colour Approvals

Lab dip / yarn-dip / knit down

A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a

colour standard.

Lab-dips are developed in order to get

conformation that the colour standard given by

buyer is producible in production.

Colour reference is in paper form. Lab-dip is done

to provide the visual aid on how colour will look

when it is dyed on approved fabric.

Look of it is judged in fabric form at this stage.

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Colour Approvals

Lab dips are reviewed in two ways either by visual

inspection or by using spectro-photometer.

For visual inspection “light box” is used.

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Colour Approvals

A light box is a box where the interior is painted a

neutral colourless grey (as to not skew the colour

of the dip) and has several options of light under

which you can evaluate your Lab dip.

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Colour Approvals

Spectrophotometer is a technology gives values

(L, a, b, c, h and delta-E) which gives clear idea

that how much Lab-dip is closer to given standard.

Some buyer gives approval on visual matching

while some follows the spectrophotometer

readings.

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Colour Approvals

If some yarn is specified then dyed yarn is

submitted as Yarn-dip,

while for knits,

sometimes for dyed yarn merchandiser submits

Knit- down which may be developed by hand knit

or sample knitting machine.

Knit-down is also used to check the appeal of

colour combination in y/dyed styles.

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Desk-loom:

Desk loom basically a fabric made on sample weaving

machine, which can be operated by hand.

Desk loom submission is necessary in order to get

review of the fabric which going to approve.

Generally desk loom submitted for yarn dyed fabric.

Mostly appeal of colour combination & weaving

structure is assessed here.

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Print strike off:

The print strike off is developed to make sure that

print design given by buyer is producible in bulk.

Problems associated while printing and other

issues are communicated with buyer.

A test length of fabric specially printed in order to

check the pattern registration, pattern repeat and

the matching shades in the design.

http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/communication-backbone-of-merchandising/

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Art work:

Art work is another important aspects which need

to get approved from buyer.

Art work contains the barcode stickers, waistband

tag, hand tag designs which is specified by buyer.

This need to be submitted physically or picture of

them is sufficient depending upon buyer

requirement.

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Size Set or Jump Size Set Sample

Size Set / Jump Set may be requested depending

on business needs.

Sample should have all updates and corrections

as requested based on fit / proto comments.

These samples helps in validation of

measurement chart & grading.

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Size Set Sample

Pattern Grading is a process whereby patterns of

different sizes are produced from the approved

pattern / master pattern.

This process can be performed either manually or

automatically by a computer.

The patterns can be cut out and used to plan

cutting markers manually, if necessary.

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PP Sample

PP Sample is the short name of Pre-production sample.

PP sample is made prior to starting bulk production after incorporating allthe comments received on Proto / size set sample.

PP sample is made with actual fabric(bulk), trims and accessories of thestyle in specified size (mostly in one size and all ordered colours).

Factory takes final approval for style, workmanship, measurements,trimming, material quality including, colour, prints & finishes on PP sample.

If all meets specifications, the buyers will give the factory approval to moveto bulk production.

Factory must maintain an exact copy of the PP for their records and utilizeduring production, for in-line audit reference.

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PP Sample

In most of the cases, the factory has to send the testreport to the buyer along with the PP sample

PP Sample is the last chance the buyer have to doublecheck that everything is done correctly.

Customer approvals and PP samples provide thesewing factory with the confidence and guidance thatan agreement and expectation have been created withthe customer.

In some cases, this sample is also referred as “GoldSeal Sample”.

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Shipment samples

The Shipment samples taken from the production is theexact representation of the items that the factory going toship.

These samples are to be sent before shipment to get thebuyer’s confirmation for shipment (may not be always).

Hence these samples are needed to be perfect in allmanners.

They should be sent in actual packing with all labels, tags,etc.

Buyer may check these samples for everything or anythingand give green signal to ship the goods.

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Miscellaneous - Photo Sample

Sample made specifically for Photography,Advertising, catalogue, etc.

Actual fabrics and trims are required for sample,unless otherwise approved by the buyer.

Samples must be in size requested (not alwaysthe fit sample size)

Samples are sometimes requested before fitapproval- samples must represent the mostcurrent fit comments.

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3D technology

3D technology at the design stage can helpreduce cost and time-to-market, contributing to amore efficient and profitable process by reducingthe number of samples required and theirassociated costs.

3D apparel design software eliminates the needfor trial and error in physical sample creation,ensuring that any design fits right the first time

(https://www.lectra.com/sites/lectra.com/files/document/lectra-white-paper-3d-in-apparel-design-en.pdf)

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This PPT is part of seminar conducted at PSG College of Technology,

Coimbatore.

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Interpretation of Tech Pack 09.09.17

Business

Transcript of Interpretation of Tech Pack 09.09.17