Intern Report
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Transcript of Intern Report
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At first my gratefulness goes to Almighty God to give me strength and ability to complete the industrial training and this report. You have made our life more bountiful. May you name be exalted, honored and glorified.
We would like to thanks the people, who have made a significant contribution to make this report. Their guidelines, suggestions & inspiration helped us a lot.
Now we wish to take this excellent opportunity to thank a lot of people who have assisted and inspired us in the completion of my training period:
I also express my gratitude to Prof. Dr Md. Saiful Islam ,Head, Department of Textile Engineering, for his support and continuous guidance throughout my long journey in City University and the industrial train
we would like to express our deepest appreciation, sincerest gratuity to our respected Sir Md. Enamul Kabir, our supervisor, for his tremendous support and guidance throughout our training period. Being working with his. we have not only earned valuable knowledge but was also inspired by his innovativeness, which helped enrich our experience to a greater extent. His ideas and way of working was truly remarkable.
The authority of the DELTA KNIT COMPOSITE who gave us the
opportunity to complete our industrial attachment with great success is remembered with honor
over here. Thanks goes to all Engineers, officers, technicians, employees, stuffs, all section in-
charges for their cordial behavior and help & especially to Engr. Md. Rejaul Karim (DGM,
Dyeing). we would like to thank .we are really lucky that we have gotten such a helping hand
without whom; this training may not end as it did.
We also again want to express our gratitude and appreciation to Md. Enamul Kabir(Lecturer,) for his encouragement, valuable suggestion, and guidance and decision which able to help to do this Industrial attachment successfully
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
Textile education can’t be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make us accustomed to industrial environment.
By means of practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowledge field. For any technical education practical experience is almost important in association with the theoretical knowledge.
Industrial attachment is the process, which builds understanding, skill and attitude of the performer, which improve his/her knowledge in boosting productivity and services, university education provide us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment help us to be familiar with technical support of modern machinery, skill ness about various processing stages
SUMMERY
This report has arranged on the basis of Industrial Attachment on Wet Processing Technology. Here presenting working procedure of Industrial life. Presenting the procedure and process of different like knitting section, laboratory processing, dyeing section, finishing section, necessary information about utilities WTP, ETP, number of machines section, their specification and maintenance, costing, name of buyers, production capacity, inventory system, marketing activities, clear and correct information about all f these.
DELTA KNIT COMPOSITE is a Knit Composite Garments, having all state of the art facilities with the annual turnover US$ 106.6 Million (2006-2007). They have different types of Knitting, Dyeing, Cutting, Sewing, and Finishing machines supplied by mostly Germany, Japan, Taiwan, China, U.K, U.S.A, Singapore, etc. which are very latest. It has high production where 30 Metric tons of dyed and finished fabrics are produced per day. The production is controlled by technical persons. All of the decision makers of production sector in DELTA KNIT COMPOSITE are textiles graduates. All the chemicals and dyes use for dyeing and finishing are well branded.
They produce their product for their buyer and client those are coming from international market like U.K, Sweden, Netherland, France, U.S.A, Germany and Spain. Their customer profile is big and top end such as Esprit, M&S, S-Oliver, Puma, G-star, Gap, Tesco and Grew waver etc. They follow all the system for their machines maintenance so production can not hamper.
2.1 TYPES OF RAW MATERIAL
Yarn: Carded YarnCombed Yarn
Cotton + Modal
Cotton + Viscose
Spun Yarn: 1oo% Polyester
Lycra: CREORA, Made in VIETNAM.Invista, Made in Singapore
Texlon, Made in KOREA
Flamingo
WinWin
2.2 SOURCE OF YARN FOR KNITTING
Name of the spinning Mills Location
Arif Knit spinning Ltd Gazipur
The Delta spinning Mills Ltd Kashimpur, Gazipur
Square yarn Ltd Kashimpur, Gazipur
Bengol NFK Textile Gazipur
NRG spinning mill Gazipur
Prime Textile Pagla,Narayangong
RSWM Ltd India
AA Kader synthetics Narangong
Shirin spinning Ltd Shreepur, Gazipur
Hyosung Vietnam South Korea
Malek spinning Valuka, Mymensingh
Sunny International
Aman Cotton Fabrics Ltd
Otto Spinning Ltd
VDM Spinning Ltd
Badsha Spinning Mills Ltd
Kamal Spinning Mills Ltd
Ashoka Spinning Ltd
Rusta Spinning Ltd
Bextex
MTJ
Loyed Tex
2.3 DIFFERENT YARN AND COUNT FOR KNITTING:
Si/No Yarn Type Composition Yarn Count Remark
01 Carded Yarn 100% Cotton 10s, 12s, 16s, 20s, 20/2, 22s, 24s, 26s,28s, 30, 32s, 34s,
02 Combed Yarn 100% Cotton 20s, 22s, 24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 32s, 34s, 36s, 40s, 50s, 60s.
03 G/M (Viscose %) 1%, 2%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 30%, 40%
04 Spun Yarn 100% Polyester 36D, 70D, 72D, 75D,
05 PC Polyster + Cotton
24s, 26s, 28s,30s, 32s, 34s,
06 CVC Cotton + Polyester
24s, 26s, 28s, 30s, 34s, 36s, 40s
07 C/M Cotton 50% + Polyester 50%
26s, 28s, 30s,
08 Lycra Synthetic 20D, 40D, 70D,
09
2.4 SUB CONTACT
Si No Buyer Name Remark
01 Viyella Tex Knitting, Dyeing & Finishing
02 Northern ”
03 BDL ”
04 ADURY ”
05 RATUL ”
06 M.M Knitwear Ltd. ”
07 Epyllion group ”
CHAPTER-03
3.1 PROCESS DEFINITION
Knitting is the interlocking or intermeshing of one or more yarns through a series of loops. The length wise columns of stitches, corresponding to the warp in woven cloth, are called WALES; the cross wise rows of stitches, corresponding to the filling in woven cloth, are called COURSES, FILLING KNITS (WEFT KNITS) are those fabrics in which the courses are composed of a single strand of yarn, while warp knits are those in which the Wales are composed of single strand of yarn. GAUGE corresponds to the yarn in a woven fabric, and is defined as the number of needles of yarns in half inches of cloth. The higher the gauge, the more compact and finer is the cloth.
3.2 ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING SECTION
General Manager (GM)
Knitting Manager
Knitting Master
Shift Incharge
Asst. Knitting Master
Supervisor
Floor Incharge
Operator
Production officer
3.3 CLASSIFICATION OF KNITTING SECTION
Knitting section is divided into four section
01. Flat knitting section
02. Circular knitting section
03.Fabric inspection section
04. Maintenance & Mechanics
3.3.1 FLAT KNITTING SECTION
Generally collar and cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section there are flat knitting machines of the same type. There specifications of the machines are given below:
M/C BRAND
M/C ORIGIN
No. of
M/C
M/C DIA
(In inch)
M/C
GAU
GE
TOTAL NEEDLE
PRODUCTION CAPACITY Run time
(Hours)
IN COLLAR IN CUFF
Matsuya Japan 19 54 14 740X2 450 Pcs 1200Pcs 24
Helper
Flying Tiger
Taiwan 6 54 14 740X2 450 Pcs 1200Pcs 24
SHIMA SEIKI SSF- 131
Japan 7 54 14 740X2 450 Pcs 1200Pcs 24
Total 32
Collar: Size: L: 45-50 cm * W:09-10cm * T:3/4 /5 ply, 35-45 pcs /Kg(Depends on count, ply of Yarn and tension of knitting.
Cuff: L: 37-39 * W:3.8-4.0cm * T:2/3/4 ply, 60-70 pcs /Kg(Depends on count, ply of yarn and tension of knitting.
Factor should be considered in production:
There should follow several factor when set the program according to buyer requirements.
a) Ply of Yarnb) Width of Collar or Cuffc) Stitch Lengthd) Type of Collar & Cuff (e.g. - Fancy, Tripping, Solid etc.)
3.3.2 CIRCULAR KNITTING SECTION
There are two types of machines available.These are single jersey and double jersey.
3.3.2.1 LAYOUT OF KNITTING FLOOR
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Mayer & CIE Mayer & CIE 2 Mayer & CIE3 Mayer & CIE 4 Mayer & CIE 5
Mayer & CIE 6 Mayer & CIE 7 Mayer & CIE8
Stairs
3.3.2.2 MACHINE DESCRIPTION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING SECTION- A
Circular Knitting Machine : Single Jersey, Double Jersey
Single Jersey : 35
Double Jersey : 20
Total no of M/C : 55
Brand+
Machine no.
Origin Gauge
In Inch
Dia
In
Inch
Feeder No
Fabric Type Prodn/ day
(Kgs)
Terrot-01 Germany 20 16 51 Single jersey 250
Terrot-02 Germany 24 16 51 Single jersey 250
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chambe
r Chambe
r Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Chamber
Terrot-03 Germany 20 18 57 Single jersey 270
Terrot-04 Germany 24 18 57 Single jersey 250
Terrot-05 Germany 20 18 57 Single jersey 270
Terrot-06 Germany 24 20 64 Single jersey 300
Terrot-07 Germany 18 20 64 Single jersey 320
Terrot-08 Germany 18 20 64 Single jersey 320
Terrot-09 Germany 18 20 64 Single jersey 320
Terrot-10 Germany 24 20 64 Single jersey 300
Terrot-11 Germany 18 20 64 Single jersey 320
Terrot-12 Germany 24 20 64 Single jersey 300
Terrot-13 Germany 24 20 64 Single jersey 300
Terrot-14 Germany 28 20 64 Single jersey 350
Terrot-15 Germany 18 22 70 Single jersey 300
Terrot-16 Germany 18 22 70 Single Jersey 300
Terrot-17 Germany 18 22 70 Single jersey 300
Terrot-18 Germany 22 22 70 Single jersey 320
Terrot-19 Germany 20 22 70 Single Jersey 300
Terrot-20 Germany 24 22 70 Single jersey 350
Terrot-21 Germany 28 22 70 Single jersey 380
Terrot-22 Germany 24 22 70 Single jersey 380
Terrot-23 Germany 20 24 76 Rib 380
Terrot-24 Germany 24 24 76 Rib 400
Terrot-25 Germany 20 24 76 Rib 380
Terrot-26 Germany 24 36 64 Rib 300
Terrot-27 Germany 18 34 60 Rib 350
Terrot-28 Germany 18 30 54 Rib 300
Terrot-29 Germany 24 34 60 Rib 320
Orizio -1 Italy 18 36 72 Rib 320
Orizio -2 Italy 18 36 72 Single jersey 350
Orizio -3 Italy 24 26 84 Single jersey 380
Orizio -4 Italy 24 26 84 Single jersey 380
Orizio -5 Italy 24 30 96 Rib 400
Orizio -6 Italy 28 30 96 Rib 420
Orizio -7 Italy 24 30 96 Rib 400
Orizio -8 Italy 16 30 60 Rib 300
Orizio -9 Italy 18 30 60 Rib 320
Orizio -10 Italy 22 30 96 Rib 380
Orizio -11 Italy 20 30 96 Rib 350
Orizio -12 Italy 24 30 96 Interlock 400
Orizio -13 Italy 24 30 96 Interlock 400
Orizio -14 Italy 28 30 96 Interlock 420
Orizio -15 Italy 28 30 96 Interlock 420
Orizio -16 Italy 24 30 96 Interlock 400
Orizio -17 Italy 24 30 96 Single jersey 400
Mayer &Cie-1
Germany 20 30 96 Single jersey 400
Mayer &Cie-2
Germany 20 30 96 Single jersey 400
Mayer &Cie-3
Germany 20 30 96 Single jersey 400
Mayer &Cie-4
Germany 20 30 62 Single jersey 350
Mayer &Cie-5
Germany 20 30 62 Single jersey 350
Falmak -1 Singapure 24 26 78 Single jersey 300
MACHINE DESCRIPTION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING SECTION- B
INTERING DOOR
FABRIC INSPECTION
UNIT-B
P-02
B-01
P-01 S
E
Circular Knitting Machine : Single Jersey, Double Jersey
Single Jersey : 05
Double Jersey : 04
Total no of M/C : 09
Brand+
Machine no.
Origin Gauge
In Inch
Dia
In
Inch
Feeder Fabric Type
Prodn/ day
(Kgs)
Pailung-01 TAIWAN 18 42 80 D/J 420
Pailung-02 TAIWAN 24 42 126 D/J 420
BASO-01 TAIWAN 24 34 180 S/J 420
L-02 L-01 B-04 B-03B-05
B-02
N
W
BASO-02 TAIWAN 24 34 102 D/J 400
BASO-03 TAIWAN 24 34 102 D/J 400
BASO-04/05 TAIWAN 24 34 180 S/J 480
Lisky-01 TAIWAN 20 32 102 S/J 350
Lisky-02 TAIWAN 20 32 102 S/J 350
3.3.3 FABRIC INSPECTION SECTION:
There are three machines in cloth inspection section. Specification of this machine is given below:
SIs No No of m/c Machine name Model no M/C origin Speed
01 01 GUVEN-CELIK TK-3, Serial no- 3907 Germany
02 02 üzUUZ-F, AA TPR Ind co.,Ltd Thailand 32 m/min
REMARKS
Production runs with the help of mechanical fitters. For any kind of mechanical fault of any machine the fix and work under technical in charge. Production officers take account of daily production by running after the supervisor and workers so on.
3.4 PRODUCTION PLANNING AND OPERATIONS OF KNITTING DIVISION
3.4.1 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF KNITTING
Sample fabric
Design analysis
Machine selection
Setting the machine for the specific design
Yarn in cone form
Feeding the yarn cone in the creel
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip-tape positive feeding arrangement and tension devices
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Inspection
Numbering
3.4.2 DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTION PROCESS:
In every mill, there maintains a sequences in production processing. It is also followed in this mill where we were in industrial attachment. The process sequences are in list below:
I. Firstly, knitting manager gets a production shit from the merchandiser as accordance as consumer requirements then he informs or orders production officer about it.
II. Production officer informs technical in charge and knows about machine in which the production will be running.
III. Technical in charge calls for leader of mechanical fitter troops, they two take decision about machine for production considering machine condition, production capacity, maintenance complexity, etc.
IV. Production officer with experienced mechanical fitter adjusts required stitch length and grey GSM for required final GSM.
V. Supervisor checks daily production regularity and make operator conscious about finishing tin due time.
VI. Operators operate machine in high attention as if there were no faults in the fabrics. If he thinks or sure about any fabric fault, then he calls for the mechanical fitters in duty. Mechanical fitter then fixes it if he can or he informs technical in charge. Then he comes in spot.
VII. After required production and final inspection in 4-point system, they sent in dyeing section.
3.4.3 PRODUCTION PARAMETER
1. Machine Diameter;
2. Machine rpm (revolution per minute);
3. No. of feeds or feeders in use;
4. Machine Gauge;
5. Count of yarn;
6. Required time (M/C running time);
7. Machine running efficiency.
3.4.4 RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN KNITTING PARAMETERS:
1. Stitch length increase with the increase of GSM.
2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and WPI decrease.
3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease.
4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase.
5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and WPI increase.
6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use.
7. Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM.
3.4.5 PRODUCTION CALCULATION
A. Production/shift in kg at 100% efficiency
=
RPM × No . of Feeder × No . of Needle × SL(mm)3527 .80× Yarn count
B. Production/shift in meter
=Course /min .Course /cm
=RPM×No . of Feeder×60×12×EfficiencyCourse /cm×100
C. Fabric width in meter:
=Total no . of walesWales /cm×100
=Total no . of Needles usedin knittingWales /cm×100
3.4.6 CONSIDERABLE POINTS TO PRODUCE KNIT FABRICS
Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. These includes-
Type of Fabric or design of Fabric. Finished G.S.M. Yarn count Types of yarn (combed or carded) Diameter of the fabric. Stitch length Color depth.
G.S.M.
It is technical term that indicates the weight of the fabric per square meter.
Point considered while setting grey GSM:
Enzyme level Color Suided or non- suided
Changing of GSM:
Major control by VDQ pulley.
Minor control by stitch length adjustment.
Altering the position of the tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley moves
towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will
increase.
3.4.7 FACTORS THAT SHOULD BE CHANGED IN CASE OF FABRIC DESIGN ON
Cam setting
Set of needle
Size of loop shape
3.4.8 EFFECT OF STITCH LENGTH ON COLOR DEPTH:
If the depth of color of the fabric is high loop length should be higher because in case of fabric with
higher loop length is less compact. In dark shade dye take up% is high so GSM is adjusted then. Similarly
in case of light shade loop length should be relatively smaller.
3.4.9 METHODS OF INCREASING PRODUCTION:
By the following methods the production of knitted fabric can be increased –
1. By increasing m/c speed:
Higher the m/c speed faster the movement of needle and ultimately production will be
increased. But it has to make sure that excess tension is not imposed on yarn because of this high speed.
2. By increasing the number of feeder:
If the number of feeder is increased in the circumference of cylinder, then the number of
courses will be increased in one revolution at a time.
3. By using machine of higher gauge:
The more the machine gauge, the more the production is. So by using machine of higher gauge
production can be increased.
4. By imposing automation in the m/c:
a) Quick starting & stopping for efficient driving system.
b) Automatic m/c lubrication system for smoother operation.
c) Photo electric fabric fault detector.
5. By imposing other developments:
a) Using creel-feeding system.
b) Applying yarn supply through plastic tube that eliminates the possibilities of yarn
damage.
c) Using yarn feed control device.
3.5 FAULTS & THEIR CAUSES IN KNITTING
Faults and their causes in knitting:
Hole mark:
Causes:
Buckling of the needle latch Buckling the sinker Higher G.S.M
Star mark:
Causes:
Buckling of the needle latch. Yarn tension variation during production. Low G.S.M.
Oil spot/Grease spot:
Causes:
Excess oil/Grease use.
Jamming of needle & sinker.
Patta:
Causes:
Yarn comes from different lot. Faulty cam use in the m/c.
Needle mark:
Causes:
Faulty needle use in the m/c.
Sinker mark:
Causes:
Faulty sinker use in the m/c
Fabric Shrinkage:
Causes:
Yarn twist Twist Shrinkage Knitting tension Fabric G.S.M. ` G.S.M. Shrinkage
3.6 END PRODUCTS OF KNITTING MACHINE
3.6.1 END PRODUCTS OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Single Jersey M/C:
a) S/J Plainb) Single lacostec) Double lacosted) Single piquee) Double piquef) Mini jacquardg) Fleeceh) Terry Fleece
Interlock M/C:
a) Interlock pique
b) Eyelet fabric
c) Mash fabric
d) Honeycomb fabric
e) Face/Back rib
Rib M/C:
a) 1X1 Rib fabric
b) 2X2 Rib fabric
c) Separation fabric
d) Honeycomb
3.6.2 END PRODUCTS OF FLAT BED KNITTING MACHINE
a) Tipping
b) Plain
c) Emboss
3.7 DIFFERENT FABRIC GSM AND THEIR YARN COUNT
A. S/J without lycra -
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
110 – 120 40 S – 36 S
120 – 130 36 S - 32 S
130 – 140 32 S – 28 S
140 – 150 28 S
150 – 160 26 S
170 – 210 24 S
B. Rib without lycra -
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 – 190 36 S - 32 S
190 – 200 30 S
200 – 215 28 S
215 – 230 26 S
230 – 250 24 S
250 – 300 24 S
C. Interlock without lycra -
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
200 – 220 34 S
220 – 230 32 S
230 – 250 30 S
250 – 300 26 S
D. Lacoste without lycra -
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 – 190 30 S
190 – 210 28 S
210 – 230 26 S
230 – 250 26 S
E. 40D Lycra Rib -
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
230 – 240 32 S
240 – 250 30 S
250 – 280 26 S
280 – 300 24 S
F. 40D Lycra S/J –
Fabric G.S.M Yarn Count
180 – 190 34 S
190 – 210 32 S
210 – 220 30 S
220 – 240 28 S
240 – 250 26 S
3.8 DIFFERENT PARTS OF KNITTING MACHINE
Creel: Creel is used to place the cone.
Feeder: Feeder is used to feed the yarn.
Tensioning device: Tensioning device is used to give proper tension to the yarn.
VDQ pulley: VDQ pulley is used to control the GSM by controlling the stitch length.
Guide: Guide is used to guide the yarn.
Sensor: Sensor is used to seen & the machine stops when any problem occurs.
Spreader: Spreader is used to spread the knitted fabric before take up roller.
Take up roller: Take up roller is used to take up the fabric
Fixation feeder: These types of feeder are used in Electrical Auto Striper Knitting Machine to feed the
yarn at specific finger.
3. 9 PICTURES OF KNITTING MACHINARY AT PPC
Fig: Circular Knitting m/c
3.10 QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM OF KNITTING DIVISION
3.10.1 INTRODUCTION TO QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM
After collecting fabric rolls from different machines, these fabrics need to inspect thoroughly
by the quality inspectors to assure required quality before dyeing. Quality assurance of knitted grey
fabric is described here.
3.10.2 SOME POINTS ARE NEEDED TO MAINTAIN FOR HIGH QUALITY FABRIC
a) Brought good quality yarn.b) Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.c) G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.d) Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.e) Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.
Fig: Flat knitting machine
3.10.3 LIST OF EQUIPMENT FOR QUALITY CONTROL
The list of equipments to assure quality:-
a) Inspection m/c.
b) Electronic balance.
c) GSM cutter.
d) Measuring tape.
e) Scissors.
f) Indication sticker.
3.10.4 QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE
A. Body & rib inspection:
All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over the
inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or minor faults like thick-thin,
barre mark, fall out, contamination, fly, holes, oil lines, needle line, slubs etc are recorded in inspection
report to classify the fabric. Here four points system is used in inspection system.
B. Collar & cuff inspection:
Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor fault in collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first round problem etc properly counted and recorded.
3.10.5 QUALITY STANDARD
PPC maintains the ISO: 9001:2000 standards in case of quality. Therefore, the four points system is
followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found and points given against are recorded in the
inspection sheet. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection at PPC.
Four (4) - Point system for knitting fault inspection:
Knitting fault Point
Slub 1
Any hole 4
Needle/Sinker line 4
Needle breakage(upto 10) 4
Press off 4
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 3" in length 1
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 6" in length 2
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination up to 9" in length 3
Thick, Thin, Dirt, Oil spot, Contamination above 9" in length 4
Quality (points per 100 square meters):
Total point X GSMRoll weight X 10
Quality Classification:
1 2 3
<20 20 - 30 >30
OK Ask Reject
BATCHING
BATCHING is the process to get ready the fabrics which should be dyed and processed for a particular lot of a particular order.
3.1 OBJECTS OF BATCHING
To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source.Turn the grey fabric if require.To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following criteria.
Order sheet(received from buyer) Dyeing shade(color or white, light or dark) Machine capacity Machine availability Typed of fabric(100% cotton, PE, PC, CVC) Emergency
To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor with batch card.To keep records for every previous dyeing.
3.2 GREY FABRIC INSPECTION
The inspection and grading of fabric quality is one of the important functions of quality control in the gray or finished state, the grading of the fabric is a different task, taking two primary considerations: as the frequency of effects and the seriousness of defects.
The grading has two primary functions:
First to classify the fabric according to standard qualities based on the end use customer demands. And
Secondly, to supply information as to the quality actually being produced.
The knitted fabric can be classified into three levels of quality, each one have a number of points for defects as follows:
The first quality level 40 points per 100 linear yards.
The second quality level (40-80) points per 100 linear yards.
The third quality level 80 or more points per 100 linear yards
3.3 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR FINAL INSPECTION:
All pieces will be graded on the base of 40 points per 100 linear yards mapping will be done on each piece to ensure proper grading. Do not count more than 4 points per one yard.
All defects must be recorded and marked in final inspection and an accurate account of points made to ensure proper grading.
All fabrics must meet specification. At the end of each piece of fabric, the inspector will add up total
points and decide whether the piece can be shipped as first quality or not, reworked, placed in lower quality, or cut and upgraded for shipment. Fifteen yards or more can be shipped as first quality.
The quality control supervisor must approve the grading of all quality levels and check the lower quality.
Major or unsightly defects in the first and last yard of a roll or piece will be cut. All defects of one yard length or more will be cut out of the piece. Defects within the first two inch or the last two inch of a piece will not be cut out or counted in the grading.
Open defects of the back of fabric such as drops, runs and hanging picks are to be included in the grading of fabric.
Pieces can be connected together, once each piece must be same shade.
All defects such as runs that extend more than 1 inch and a Bias of not more than 2 inch.
Defects within one inch of the fabric edge will not be counted except on tubular fabrics. All defects will be counted in tubular goods.
3.4 GRADING PROCEDURE:
All open defects or major defects counted with 4 points per defects. Surface defects over 9 inch length counted with 4 points per defects. Surface defects over 6 to 9 inches length counted with 3 points per
defects. Surface defects 3 to 6 inches length counted with two points per
defects. Surface defects up to 3 inches length counted with one point per
defect. Running defect, such as tucks, needle lines, barre, crack mark, are
judgment defects.
3.5 PROPER BATCHING CRITERIA:
To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing machine. To minimize the washing time or preparation time and machine
stoppage time. To keep the number of batch as less as possible for same shade. To use a particular machine for dyeing same shade.
3.6 BATCHING MANAGEMENT:
Primarily batching is done by dyeing manager taking the above criteria under consideration. Batch section in charge receives this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Some time planning is adjusted according to machine condition or emergency.
3.7 BATCH CALCULATION:
Equation for rope length:
Batch= Batchquantity∨machinecapacityTotal quantity
× Dia quantity
Example:
Let, machine capacity 500Kg
Given Dia Quantity
45” 866
49” 4688
51” 2545
Calculation:
Total quantity, 866+4688+2545=8099
No. of batch, 8099÷500=17
For 45” Dia,
5008099× 866 = 54Kg
For 49” Dia,
5008099× 4688 = 290Kg
For 51” Dia,
5008099× 2545 = 158Kg
Equation for collar program:
Totalno .of collar of the DiaDiaquantity
× Dia quantity per batch
3.8 BATCHING PROCESS FOLLOW UP:
Recive batch card from grey in charge
Make the priority as per dyeing plan
Take one specific batch card
Read the batch card for own understanding
Check the availability of fabric
Take required quantity of body fabric from ware-house
Make required no. of rope maintaning equal length
Take colllar/cuff as per size, keep the total weight
Distribute the collar/ cuff or rib ineach rope equally ensure equal length
Stitch the fabric
Write down the weight against rollno. In the back side of the batchcard
Write the total weight in batch card
Put signature and date
Fillup the production report form
3.9 MACHINES IN BATCH SECTION:
Number of machine : 01
Machine name : Air turning machine
Origin : Korea
Number of machine : 02
Machine name : Air turning machine
Origin : Local
CHAPTER - 04
LAB DIP DEVELOPMENT
4.1 DEFINATION:
Lab dip development means the sample which is dyed according to buyer’s requirements (similar shade and so on). Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production is dyeing planning done.
Lab dips are done to provide a visual aid on how a color will look when it is dyed. Our actual production sample will vary from the lab dip that is provided. Remember that the lab dip is produced in a beaker and is not an actual production run. It is not possible to lab dip enough fabric for a sample
cap or garment. When the goods are dyed in a real production run, the conditions are dramatically different from the laboratory. Production will not begin on fabric unless a lab dip is approved or the customer waives the lab dip process. Once a lab dip is approved, we will dye only to the lab dip approved. The original color swatch is no longer the target.
4.2 OBJECTS OF LABDIP:
The main objects of lab dip are as follows-
To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing. To compare dyed sample with swatch by light box spectroflash. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing. Finally approved lab dip(Grade: A B C)
4.3 DEVELOPMENT OF LAB DIP:
Receiving standard swatch
Spectrophotometer reading
Recipe start up software
Start up recipe given
Manual description (Pipatting)
Pot dyeing
Unload
Normal wash
Acid wash
Hot wash
Cold rinsing
Drying
4.4 COLOR MASUREMENT OF STANDARD SAMPLE:
color measurement is mainly done for the purpose of shade matching as perfectly as possible. Shade matching of the produced sample with the standard one is compulsory. colour measurement can be done by two methods-
Manual methodinstrumental method
In manual method, the standard sample, s colour is measured by comparing it with previously produced samples of different tri chromatic colour combination. The samples with which the colour of standard matched, that sample, s colour recipe is being taken for shade matching. This method accuracy completely depends on the vision of the person related to it but person must be needed gather experience about colour matching.
The instrumental method is more reliable if it is operated accurately to do the work of colour measurement. Spectrophotometer interfaced with a pc is used for shade matching. This instrument works with the principle of reflectance measurement of light at different wave length. When the standard sample is being subjected under spectrophotometer, then the instrument suggest a recipe with a required tri-chromatic colour within the tolerance limit of colour difference. In this way, colour measurement of the standard sample is carried out for the purpose of shade matching.
4.5 PREPARATOIN AND STORAGE OF STOCK DYES AND CHEMICALS:
Preparation of concentration of stock dye solution-
Normally 0.1%, 0.5%, 1%, 1.5%, and 2% stock solution of dyes are prepared in beakers for daily used.
Preparation of concentration of stock chemical solution-
Similarly 20% salt and 20% soda stock solutions are prepared in beakers for daily use.
4.6 FORMULA FOR MEASURING DYES AND CHEMICALS IN LABORATORY:
The amount of dye solution (ml) is calculated as follow-
Amount of dyes solution (ml) = Fabricwaight × shade%
Concentrationof stock solution%
Example –
In recipe, fabric weight = 5gm
Shade % =2%
[if used 0.5% stock solution of dyes ]then,
Amount of dye solution (ml) =5×2/0.5=20ml
The amount of chemical solution (ml) is calculated as follow-
Amount of chemical solution(ml)= Fabric weigth×M :L× g/ l1000×Concentratoin of stock solution%
Example-
In recipe, fabric weight =5gm
Salt =20g/l
M:L =1:8
[If taken 20% stock solution of salt] then,
Amount of chemical solution (ml) =40×20/1000×.20
=4ml
4.7 MACHINERIES FOR LAB DIP:
1. Name of m/c : SpectoflashTemperature: 180°CNo. of pot : 19Origin : USA
2. Name of m/c : Spectoflash
Temperature: 180°CNo. of pot : 23Origin : USA
3. Light box : this includes 4 types of light--TL84-D65-Florescent-ultraviolet
Pipette used in dyeing laboratory: 0.01, 0.1, .5, 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 ml etc.
4.8 STOKE SOLUTOIN PREPARATION:
Shade% Stock solution%0.0001-0.009 0.1
0.01-0.99 0.51-1.99 12-3.99 2
4 to more 4
4.9 FOR PRODUCTION:
SHADE% SALT SODA WATER0.0001-0.01 7 5 1:80.01-0.08 10 60.08-0.15 12 7
1:70.15-0.08 15 80.08-1.5 18 91.5-2 20 102-2.5 30 132.5-3 40 15
1:73-3.5 50 163.5-4 60 184-4.5 70 204.5 and over 80 20 1:6
4.10 PROCEDURE OF LAB DIP
For 100% cotton fabric (all in one method):
Fabric weight measured by electronic balance. Calculate the recipe. Keep the fabric in pot. Then required amount of dyes, water, salt, soda and other chemicals are
taken to the pot by pipeting. Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depend on
types of dyes being used.
Program-01.For light shade Fixed temperature = 60°cTime = 60 min
` Program-
02. For dark shade
Fixed temperature= 80°c
Time = 60 min
After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times. Acid wash for neutralization. Then soaping by required soap solution for 10min at 95°c. Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with standard.
For polyester cotton blend fabric (all in one method)
Fabric weight measured by electric balance. Calculate the recipe for the polyester part. Keep the fabric in the pot. Then required amount of dyes, water, dispersing agent, acetic acid and
sodium acetate are taken to pot by pipeting. Start the program of dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature are carried
out for 30 minute at 130°c.
After finished the dyeing time then cold wash two times. Then reduction clearing by hydrose, caustic and detergent for 20 minute
at 70°c. Cold wash then drying and match with the standard sample.
Again,
Calculate the recipe for cotton part. Keep the fabric in the pot. Then required amount of dyes, water, salt soda, and others chemicals are
taken to the pot by pipeting. Start the program for dyeing. The dyeing time and temperature depends
on what types of dyes are being used. Then soaping by required soap solution for 10 minutes at 95°c. Cold wash then drying the lab dip and compare with the standard sample.
Program-01:
Fixed temperature = 60°c
Time =60 min.
Program-02:
Fixed temperature = 80°c
Time =60min.
Machine used in lab section
CHAPTER - 05
DYEING SECTION
5.1 ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING AND FINISHING SECTION:
G. M / A G. M
Manager (Dyeing &Finishing)
Senior production officer
Production officer
Dyeing master
Shift in charge
Floor in charge
Supervisor
Operator
Helper
8
12 13 14
10 11
6
7 161616151515
19
98 * * *
5.2 Lay out of dyeing & Finishing section: S
W E
N
1. Office (Manager)2. Office (GM)3. Chemical store4. Dyes store5. Lab 6. Director office7. Gaust room8. Air turning machine9. Fabric store10. Boiler 111.Boiler 212.Maintenance office13.Spare parts store14.Generator15.A. K. M. I dyeing machine16.Sclavos dyeing machine17.Fongs dyeing machine18.HAF dyeing19.Production officers office20.Squeezer21.Dryer22.Compactor23.Finished fabric inspection24.Finished fabric store
* Toilet
The raw materials used for production are-
1. Gray fabric2. Dyes and chemicals
5.3 GRAY FABRICS:
Single jersey Interlock Lacoste Lycra rib 1× 1 rib and others Collar and cuff Polyester fabrics etc.
5.4 DYES AND CHEMICALS USED IN RAHAMAT KNIT DYEING AND FINISHING LTD:
Different Types of Dyes Used With Their Brand Name:
REACTIVE DYES:
BRAND NAME COUNTRY NAME NAME OF DYE STUFF
DY-STAR GERMANY Remazol Golden Yellow RGB
Remazol Deep Black RGB
Remazol Deep Black GWF Gran
Remazol Red RGB Gran
Remazol Turquoise Blue G133%
Remazol Brilliant Blue R Spec
Remazol Brilliant Blue BB 133% Gran
Remazol Ultra Carmine RGB
Remazol Ultra Carmine RGB GR
Levafix Rubine CA Gran
Levafix Red CA Gran
Levafix Olive CA Gran
Levafix Fast Red CA Gran
Levafix Brillant Red E-4BA Gran
Dianix Navy CC
Dianix Turquoise S-BG
IMPOCOLOR GERMANY
Imcozin Blue E-NR
Imcozin Blue V-CR 150%
Imcozin Brilliant Red V-F3B
Imcozin Brilliant Yellow V-4GL
Imcozin Yellow E-3R 150%
BENZEMA SWITZER LAND
Bezaktive Blue S-GLD 150
Bezaktive Yellow S-3R 150
Bezaktive Red S-3B 150
CLARIANT SWITZER LAND Drimarene Yellow K-4G Cdg
HUNTSMAN SWITZER LAND
Terasil Red W-4BS
Terasil Nevy W-RS
Novacron Red FN-R-01
Novacron Yellow F-4G
JIHUA CHINAStarfix Black B 150%
Starfix Red EP 150%
SUMIFIX JAPAN Sumifix Supra Blue E-XF
Sumifix Supra Yellow E-XF
SUN COLOR KOREA Sunfix Navy Blue MF-D
DISPERSE DYES:
BRAND NAME COUNTRY NAMENAME OF DYE STUFF
HUNTSMAN SWITZER LAND Terasil Golden Yellow W -3R
Different Types of Chemicals Used With Their Brand Name:
CHEMICAL NAME BRAND NAME COUNTRY NAME
Wetting agent Feloson NOF, PCLF Germany
Levelling agent A-41, E2R China
Anti-creasing agent Kapavon CL Germany
Per Oxide Stabilizer
Kapazon H-53
GermanyCBB, S. SOF
Rucorit Wez
Caustic Caustic China
Soda Ash Soda Ash Chaina
H2O2 H2O2 Chaina+Korea
Optical Brightening Agent
Uvitex-BMA
SwitzerlandUvitex-BHV
Uvitex-BBT
Syno White 4Bk Korea
H2O2 Killer Kapatex-PKS Germany
Acitic Acid Acitic Acid India
Sequestering Agent
Securon-540China
CS, S.2UD
Polyclean-SP India
EnzymeBio-ACE China
Biopolish-B41 Srilanka
Electrolyte / Salt
Sodium Sulphate Anhydrose India
Glubar Salt
DetergentRukozen-WBL Germany
Diwet PIUS India
Soaping Agent
Rukozen-NZA Germany
Dekol ISN, RSKChina
Cyclonon XEW
Softener Nerosoft-JS(an-ionic) China
Nerosoft-NI(non-
ionic)
Purrustol-IMA Germany
Fixing AgentSandofix-EC
GermanyProtan FCE-375
5.5 RESPONSIBILITY OF A PRODUCTION OFFICER
Overall supervision of dyeing & finishing. Dyes & chemicals requisition issue & check. Program making, sample checking color measurement. Control the supervisor’s operators & helpers of machines. To give dye-line or the program slip according to daily production plan, batch
preparation & PH check. To rectify the finished fabric which rejected from quality control department To check daily production report. To study dye & chemicals nature delivery by the manufacture & applied them
correctly to the production to get best product
5.6 JOB DESCRIPTION:
Title: Production officer.
Dept: Dyeing
Report to: Senior production officer.
Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities.
Title: Senior production officer.
Dept: Dyeing.
Report to: Dyeing manager.
Job summary: To plan execute & follow up the production activities & control the quality production with related activities.
5.7 MACHINE DESCRIPTION
MACHINE TYPE QUANTITYSCLAVOS 03
FONJS 04A K. M I 03
MACHINE 01:
M/c Name SCLAVOSNo. of Nozzle 03Total Capacity 1200KgMaximum work pressure (bar) 2.8 Maximum work temperature (°C) 142S/l No. 04-4A-2680Built Year 2005Origin Athence Greece
MACHINE 02:
M/c Name SCLAVOSNo. of Nozzle 03Total Capacity 750KgMaximum work pressure (bar) 2.8 Maximum work temperature (°C) 142S/l No. 04-3A-2692Built Year 2005Origin Athence Greece
MACHINE 03:
M/c Name SCLAVOSNo. of Nozzle 02Total Capacity 500KgMaximum work pressure (bar) 2.8 Maximum work temperature (°C) 142S/l No. 04-2A-2635Built Year 2005Origin Athence Greece
MACHINE 04:
M/c Name A K. M INo. of Nozzle 02Total Capacity 600KgMaximum work temperature (°C) 140Heating area 9.2 m2
Model No. AK-HTO-4TBuilt Year 2003Origin Japan
MACHINE 05:
M/c Name A K. M INo. of Nozzle 02Total Capacity 300KgMaximum work temperature (°C) 140Heating area 6.9 m2
Model No. AK-HTO-2TBuilt Year 2003Origin Japan
MACHINE 06:
M/c Name A K. M INo. of Nozzle 02Total Capacity 150KgMaximum work temperature (°C) 140Heating area 4.6 m2
Model No. AK-HTO-1TBuilt Year 2003Origin Japan
MACHINE 07:
M/c Name Fongs No. of Nozzle 02Total Capacity 250KgMaximum work temperature (°C) 140Serial No. 28014608Machine no. ECO-38-1TBuilt Year 2003Origin Japan
MACHINE 08:
M/c Name Fongs No. of Nozzle 02Total Capacity 450KgMaximum work temperature (°C) 140Serial No. 28014609Machine no. ECO-38-2TBuilt Year 2003Origin Japan
MACHINE 09:
M/c Name Fongs No. of Nozzle 02Total Capacity 650KgMaximum work temperature (°C) 140Serial No. 28014610Machine no. ECO-38-3TBuilt Year 2003
Origin Japan
MACHINE 10:
M/c Name Fongs No. of Nozzle 03Total Capacity 800KgMaximum work temperature (°C) 140Serial No. 29015899Machine no. ECO-38-4TBuilt Year 2003Origin Japan
MACHINE 11:
M/c Name HAFNo. of Nozzle 01Total Capacity 15KgManufacturer TONG GENG ENERPRISE CO. LTDBuilt Year 2005Origin Taiwan
MACHINE 12:
M/c Name HAFNo. of Nozzle 01Model no. TGRU-HAF-1-30Total Capacity 30KgManufacturer TONG GENG ENERPRISE CO. LTDBuilt Year 2005Origin Taiwan
MACHINE 13:
M/c Name HAFNo. of Nozzle 02
Model no. TGRU-HAF-1-400Total Capacity 4000KgManufacturer TONG GENG ENERPRISE CO. LTDBuilt Year 2005Origin Taiwan
5.8 RECIPE AT DIFFERENT STAGES IN DYEING COTTON FABRIC:
SCOURING & BLEACHING
Ingredient Quantity
Detergent + wetting agent (PCLF)1g/l
Sequestering agent (S.2UD) 0.5-1g/l
Stabilizer (SOF) 0.5g/l
Anticreasing agent (cl) 1.3g/l
Caustic/soda 5g/l
Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) 5g/l
NEUTRALIZATION
Detergent (PCLF) 1g/l
Acitic acid 0.5g/l
ENZYMATIC PROCESS
Acitic acid 0.5g/l
Enzyme 1g/l
DYEING
Leveling agent (E2R) 0.5g/l
Sequestering agent(s.2UD) 1g/l
Dyes
Salt 40% owf
Soda/ Caustic 10% owf
AFTER TREATMENT
Soaping agent (R.S.K) 1g/l
Acetic acid 0.5g/l
softener 0.5g/l
Fixing agent (orgafix R F-20) 0.5g/l
DIFFERENT PARAMETERS DURING DYEING
PH
During peroxide bleaching and scouring 9-11
During enzyme treatment 4.5-5
Before addition of leveling agent 6-6.5
Before addition of color softener 6-6.5
Before addition of white softener 4.5-5
Softener at stenter & de-watering 5.5-6
Silicon softener 5.5-6
Reactive dyeing 10.5-12
Disperse dyeing 4.5-5.5
TEMPARATURE (°c)
For cotton scouring 95-100
For cotton cold wash 40-50
For cotton hot wash 70-80
For cotton acid wash 60-70
For cotton dyeing 80(for hot brand)/ 60(for cold brand)
TIME
For scouring and bleaching 60-90mins
For reactive dyeing 60-90mins
For disperse dyeing 60-90mins
5.9 COTTON DYEING STEPS WITH CURVES:
Required amount of water was taken into the machine
Load the fabric & run for 5-10´ at normal temperature
Wetting agent, sequestering agent, stabilizer, ant creasing agent (scouring
chemicals) were added at a time for 5-10´
Soda (dosing) was added for 10-15´
Raised the temperature at 70°C
H2O2 was added for 7-10´
Raised the temperature at 98-100°C & continue for 1 hour
Sample check (OK)
Hot wash at 70°C for 10´
Cold wash at 40°C for 5-10´
Required amount of water was loaded
Detergent was added
Acetic acid was added
Raised the temperature at 80°C for 10-20´
Cold wash at 40°C &drain
Water filled & acetic acid was added
PH check at 4.5-5
Increased the temperature at 55-60°C
Enzyme was added & run for 1 hour
Shade check
Raised the temperature at 80°C & run for 10´
Cold wash at 40°C & drain
Raised the temperature at 60°C
PH check at 6-6.5
Leveling agent was added
Sequestering agent was added
Salt inject
Color dosing for 30´
Run the machine for 10´
Soda dosing (progressive) for 40´
Run the machine for 60-90´
Shade check (OK)
Rinsing wash
Water was filled at required amount
Soaping agent was added
Temperature increased 60°C for 10´
Shade check (OK)
Rinsing
Water was filled at required amount
Acetic acid was added for neutralization for 10´
Shade check (OK)
Rinsing
Fixing agent was added for 10´
Scouring & bleaching
Hot wash H2O2 killer
Cold wash
Final shade checks and run for 20´
Unload the dyed fabric
Temp (°C)
Min
Fig: scouring & bleaching curve
Time of adding for scouring & bleaching curve
0 = fabric load
10 = wetting agent, sequestering agent, stabilizer, ant creasing agent.
20 = soda
30 = H2O2
180 = wetting agent, acetic acid
Enzyme killer
Cold wash & drain
Temp (°C)
Min
Fig: Enzyme treatment curve
Time of addition for enzyme & chemical
Dyeing
0 = water filled
10 = acetic acid
30 = enzyme
Temp (°C)
min.
Fig: Dyeing curve of cotton
Time of addition dyeing chemicals:
0 = water load
05 = acetic acid
10 = wetting agent, sequestering agent, leveling agent
20 = salt dosing
30 = color dosing
60 = soda dosing
120 = water filled & RSK added
160 = fixing agent
170 = fixing agent
240 = softener added
5.10 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF WHITE DYEING:
Water load
Fabric load
Run the machine for 5 at normal temperature
Drain
Water load
Wetting agent, sequestering agent, anticreasing agent, stabilizer are added at normal temperature
Run 5 minute
Caustic dosing 10´ at 40°C
Steam rise to 70°C
Peroxide dosing for 10´
Temperature raises 95°C
Run the machine for 40´ at 95°C
Brightener dosing 20´
Run 10´
Sample check
Unload
5.11 PROCESS FLOW CHART OF BLACK DYEING:
Required amount of water load
Load the fabric & run for 10´
Drain
Required amount of water load
Wetting agent was added for 5´
Caustic was added for 10´
Raised the temperature at 98°C & run for 30´
Cold wash
Drain
Required amount of water load
Acetic acid was added at 50°C for neutralization
Raised the temperature at 98°C & run 5´
Rinse for 15´
Drain
Required amount of water load
Acetic acid was added to control PH (4.5-5)
Temperature increased 55°C
Enzyme was added and run for 1 hour
Temperature increased at 80°C
Cold wash
Drain
Required amount of water load
Leveling agent was added for 5´
Common salt inject
PH check (6-6.5)
Color dosing 30´
Soda dosing 20´
Caustic dosing for 30´
Temperature increased at 60°C for 5´
Run for 10´
Shade check (OK)
Cold wash at 40°C & drain
Water filled & acetic acid was added for neutralization for 10´
Shade check (OK)
Soaping agent was added for 10´
Softener & fixing was added
Unload the fabric
5.12 PROCESS SEQUENCE OF TOPPING:
Required amount of water filled
Fabric was loaded & run for 10´
Drain
Required amount of water filled
Acetic acid was added for 5´
Detergent was added for 5´
Temperature increased at 70°C
Run the machine for 10´
Rinsing for 10´
Drain
Required amount of water filled
Wetting agent was added
Soda was added for 5´
Temperature increased at 90°C
Run the machine for 30´
Acetic acid was added
Rinsing for 20´
Leveling agent and Sequestering agent was
Added for 10´
Salt inject
Color dosing for 30´
Run the machine for 10´
Soda dosing
Run for 1 hour
Temperature increased at 55°C for 10´
Run machine for 10´
Shade check (OK)
Rinsing for 20´
Drain
Soaping agent was added
Acetic acid was added for neutralization
Softening agent was added
Final shade checks & run for 20´
Unload the dyed fabric
5.13 PROCESS SEQUENCE OF STRIPPING:
Required amount of water was loaded
Load the fabric & run for 5-10´ at normal temperature
Wetting agent & anticrease were added for 5´
Caustic dosing for 5´ at normal temperature
Run for 10´
Raised the temperature at 100°C &run for 40´
Cooling at 80°C
Hydrose inject for 5´
Increased temperature at 100°C for 10´
Run machine for 30´
Coiling at 80°C
Sample check
Rinsing for 10´
Hot wash
Cold wash
Unload the fabric
5.14 DYEING FAUTS WITH THEIR REMEDIES:
1. Uneven dyeing:
Causes:
- Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
- Improper color dosing.
- Using dyes of high fixation property.
- Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Lack of control on dyeing m/c
Remedies:
- By ensuring even pretreatment.
- By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
- Proper controlling of dyeing m/c
2. Batch to Batch Shade variation:
Causes:
- Fluctuation of Temperature.
- Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
- Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.
- Dyes lot variation.
- Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
- Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
- Use standard dyes and chemicals.
- Maintain the same liquor ratio.
- Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
- Maintain the same dyeing cycle.
- Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade.
- Make sure that the operators add the right bulk chemicals at the same time and temperature in the process.
- The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check daily.
-3. Patchy dyeing effect:
Causes:
- Entanglement of fabric.
- Faulty injection of alkali.
- Improper addition of color.
- Due to hardness of water.
- Due to improper salt addition.
- Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
- Uneven heat in the machine, etc
Remedies:
- By ensuring proper pretreatment.
- Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
- Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
- Proper salt addition.
4. Roll to roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:
Causes:
- Poor migration property of dyes.
- Improper dyes solubility.
- Hardness of water.
- Faulty m/c speed, etc
Remedies:
- Use standard dyes and chemicals.
- Proper m/c speed.
- Use of soft water
5. Crease mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
- Due to high speed m/c running
Remedies:
- maintaining proper reel sped & pumps speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Reducing the m/c load
- Higher liquor ratio
6. Dye spot:
Causes:
- Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
- Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
- By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals
- By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so that the large un-dissolved particles are removed
7. Wrinkle mark:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope
- Shock cooling of synthetic material
- High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
- Higher liquor ratio
8. Softener Mark:
Causes:
- Improper mixing of the Softener.
- Improper running time of the fabric during application of softener.
- Entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
Remedies:
- Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
- Proper Mixing of the softener before addition.
- Prevent the entanglement of the fabric during application of softener
9. Crack, rope & crease marks:
Causes:
- Poor opening of the fabric rope- Shock cooling of synthetic material- Incorrect process procedure- Higher fabric speed
Remedies:
- Pre-heat setting- Lower rate rising & cooling the temperature- Reducing the machine load- Higher liquor ratio
5.15 PROCESS LOSS IN DIFFERENT STAGE:
Process loss=Gray fabric weight−Finished fabric weightGray fabric weight
1. White or light shade fabric process loss = 6%
Add enzyme for white or light shade fabric process loss = 10%
2. Black or deep shade fabric process loss = 4% or 5%
Add enzyme for black or deep shade fabric process loss = 8% or 9%
Sclavos dyeing machine
Dyed Fabric Unloading From Fong’s Dyeing m/c
CHAPTER - 06
Filter of Heat Exchanger Heat Exchanger
FINISHING SECTION
6.1 Machine Description for Finishing Section:
Finishing section is consisting of one line.
Tube line
The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow –.
- Dewatering machine- Dryer- Compactor machine
6.2 Process flow Chart for Tube Finishing Section:
Dewatering
Drying
Compacting
Inspection
Delivery
6.3 Description of the Machine for Tube Finish:
DEWATERING MACHINE:
Machine 01:
(M/C Specification)
Machine 02:
(M/C Specification)
Brand Name: Santex ag Year of Manufacture: 2003
Company: Santex ag Type: Santastretch Plus-1600
Origin: Switzerland Max Working Speed: 80 m/min
Brand Name: I Kuang Serial No: ET8A4045A9Origin: Taiwan Power: 380V 50HZModel No: ET8 Date: Jan 2005
PASSAGE DIAGRAM OF SANTEX-AG DEWATERING M/C:
hj
Troly
Passage
Detwister
Tray
Water Tank Chemical Tank
Folder/
Tray
Dewaterd
Fig: Passage Diagram of The fabric in Dewatering Machine
Padding Rollers
Padding Rollers
Guide Roller
Guide Roller
Shaper
Working principle:
After completing the dyeing process from the dyeing m/c then the fabrics are ready for de-watering. In de-watering m/c tubular fabrics are mainly processed. There is a magnetic sensor which scene the twist of the fabric and its direction and turn the fabric in opposite direction to remove twist automatically. Here dewatering is performed De-watering is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by squeezing and it is done by the padder. A suitable expander is used before the fabric is passed through the nip of the padders, which expands the fabric flat wise and adjust the width.
The expander width is adjusted as S/J- 20%, PK-25%, Int.-35%, Lacoste-40% wider than the required width. There is a pair of rubber coated padder, where water is removed from fabric when passed through the nip of it.
Normally squeezer contain single or double padders where,
- One for removing water and
- Other for applying finishing chemicals such as softener.
But this finishing is done only for the tubular fabric. Open widths knitted fabrics are applied finishing treatment later in stenter.
Here present the compressor which given compress air to form ballooning before passing through the padder. This balloon remove crease mark but not form the maximum balloon otherwise shrinkage increase.
In feed & Out feed traverses which present in albatros control the following functions by over feeding system.
- To control the width (dia) of the fabric.- To control the spirality of the fabric.- To control the crease mark of the fabric.- To control the length of the fabric.
Operational parameter:
- Speed: As much as possible (40-60 m/min). Higher the GSM lower the speed.
- Over feed: As required. Higher the GSM higher the over feed.- Padder pressure: 3-7 bar as required. Higher the GSM lower the padder
pressure.- Width: Fabric width is adjusted as per required width.
N.B: Santex contains two baths. One for padder bath and another for softener bath where softener given 1 g/l. The softener bath capacity is 80 liters.
Special features of Santex-ag m/c:
Single squeeze roller and single padder present.
One for squeezing and other for applying softener finished.
Above 80% water can be removed
Maximum 60 inch diameter can be extended.
Softener tank present.
Maintenance during operation:
Proper balloon form by compressor air otherwise crease mark appears.
Padder contract point adjusts perfectly according to the fabric construction otherwise accurate water will not remove.
Albatros must be clean every one or two hours later.
DRYER MACHINE:
(M/C Specification)
PASSAGE DIAGRAM OF SANTEX-AG STEAM DRYER -
Brand Name: Santex ag Year of Manufacture: 2003
Company: Santex ag Type: Santashrink 2K/240, IRGF1GAS
Origin: Switzerland Max. Working Speed: 30 m/min
Dried fabric delivery
Chamber – 1 Chamber – 2
Here ,
= Folder belt .
Fig: Passage Diagram of The fabric in Dryer Machine.
Working principle of dryer:
After de-watering then the fabric through the dryer. The main function of the dryer is given below,
- To dry the fabric.
Burner -1 Burner -2
Overfeed Roller
Conveyor belt Teflon Coated
Fabric Passage
Feed
Roller
- To control the overfeed system.- To control the vibration which increase the G.S.M.
This machine contains two chambers. Two mesh endless conveyors are placed lengthwise to the chamber named conveyor net and filter net, each chamber contain a burner, which supply hot air .This hot air is guided through the ducting line by suction fan .There are nozzles placed in between filter net and conveyor net. When the fabric pass on the conveyor net, hot air is supplied to the wet fabric to dry it. There are exhaust fan which such the wet air and deliver to the atmosphere through the ducting line.
The speed of the dryer depends on the temperature of the m/c & the G.S.M of the fabric. If the m/c temp. is high then m/c speed also high and the m/c temp. is low then m/c speed also low . The vibration speed of the m/c for heavy fabric is 730 m/min and normal fabric is 480 m/min.
The temp. of different chambers according to the shade of the fabric –
Shade Chamber-1 Chamber-2
Light 1200c 1300c
Medium 1350c 1400c
Deep 1500c 1700c
Operating parameters:-
Temperature:-Set the temperature between 1200c -1300c for white and 1500c -1700c for color fabric. GSM temperature Or, moisture content temperature
Set the over feed up to 10~20% or as required to get finish G.S.M. Set the speed as much as possible (6~20m/min). GSM speed
Special feature of Santex-ag steam dryer:
- Steam dryer (two chambers).- Vibration occurs in heating zone.- Process air pressure switch present.- Maximum temp. Increase up to 1700c.- Steam control switch present.- Two burners present.- Two conveyor belts are present.
Following things are also considered in case of Dryer machine:
If fabric is redder than the standard one, then reduce the temperature.
If fabric is more Yellower than the standard one, then increase the temperature.
If fabric is more Bluer than the standard one, then increase the temperature
COMPACTOR MACHINE:
(M/C Specification)
PASSAGE DIAGRAM OF SANTEX-AG COMPACTOR MACHINE:
Brand Name: Santex ag Year of Manufacture: 2003
Company: Santex ag Type: Santaspread 140, Without winder
Origin: Switzerland Max. Working Speed: 50 m/min
.
Fig: Fabric passage diagram through Santex-ag Compactor machine
Working principle:-
Drayed Fabric
Feed Roller
Feeder
Shaper
Steam Roller / 1st Roller Heating
1st Denser Roller
2nd Roller Heating2nd Denser
Roller
Folding
Compacted Fabric
The main object of compactor is to make the fabric surface smooth, to control the residual shrinkage, G.S.M and if required fabric width also. To control the residual shrinkage the fabric is previously shrinkage artificially by gathering of loops of knitted fabric and it is set by heat and pressure. In tube compactor, the dried tubular knitted fabric is face to steam when it passed through the teflon coated conveyor belt. When a cotton fabric absorbs water, it swells and shrinks (particularly in length direction) because the absorbed water allows the cellulose chains to move relative stain free position. Then the fabric is passed through the expander. This m/c contains two compaction units to compact both side of the tubular fabric. Each unit contains a hot rotating cylinder, blanket which rotate in contact with the cylinder and Teflon cover .while passing the expander roller, the fabric is over feeded. The fabric is compacted with the pressure of blanket and Teflon cover while passing through the hot cylinder .Due to compaction stitch length is reduced. Then the fabric is passed through the counting device .Before packing, the fabric is inspected carefully.
Important parts:-
-Over feed roller. - Steam sprayers.
-Expander. - Cylinder (2)
-Blanket (2) - Teflon covers.
Operational parameter:-
- Set the temperature at 110-1390C (as required)
- Set the speed as much as possible (15-25m/min). GSM m/c speed
- Set the overfeed % as required; to increase GSM, overfeed need to increase to a certain limit.
Function:
To control shrinkage. To control width. To control GSM. To smooth fabric. Heat seating of fabric for lycra.
Special feature of Santex –ag Compactor:
- Operating system is computerized.- Steam bar present which soften the fabric for compacting.- In compacting zone, edge & retard roller, compacting shoe and
steel plates are present.- A pair of pulley present for fabric dia control.- Fabric G.S.M, shrinkage and dia control.
Following things are also considered in case of compacting machine:
If fabric is less Reddish than the standard one, then increase the temperature, reduce steam.
If fabric is less yellowish than the standard one, then increase the temperature, without steam.
If fabric is less Blueish than the standard one, then reduce the temperature, increase steam.
N.B: Overfeed Steam G.S.M
Overfeed Steam Stretch G.S.M
Teflon speed (+) – More compaction
Teflon speed (-) – Less compaction, G.S.M because overfeed is less.
N.B: To remove twisting the tube fabric may be heat set before compacting.
For Viscose with Lycra more overfeed required.
All this data’s are practiced in mills which may vary factory to factory.
Process Flow Chart of Final Inspection:
(Q.A.D)
After completing finishing process here firstly check the shade as per buyer standard with dimensional stability from lab.
Secondly check dia / width fabric weight or G.S.M
Thirdly check fabric surface or appearance as per buyer standard.
The every roll with every meter check as per four (04) point system.
Make a report.
If OK then ready for delivery.
If not OK then identify the fault.
If it is knitting fault then inform the knitting department by job card and mail, & requested the fabric for replacement.
If it is dyeing fault & If make sure that it is reprocess able then give job card to dyeing department correction. And if is not reprocess able then reject the fabric &
inform the dyeing department to replace the rejected quantity.
6.4 Different type of fault found in final inspection:
Fault NameHole Pin HoleSoftener markBarry mark
Drop Stitch Lycra OutBand markNeedle mark
Slab Barry mark
Crease mark
CHAPTER - 07
QUALITY CONTROL
a. QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM:
The quality assurance department is assigned to maintain consistently uniform quality of the material in process & various stage of its manufacturing.
7.2 Objects of quality control:
Research Selection of raw materials Process control Process development
Product testing Specification test
Mainly this factory follows ISO Standard. But testing Standard depends on buyer requirements.
7.3 List of Equipments:
Computer Light box Electric Heater Sample Dyeing M/C Electrical Balance pH meter G S M Cutter
Washing M/ C Shrinkage & spirality measurement instrument
7.4 QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE:
Quality assurance Procedure may be divided two major Parts:
1. Online quality Control2. Offline System Control
Scope of Quality Control, Quality Assurance and Testing:
Testing Lab Machine-Auditing System A good Training System Technical Expertise
On Line test:
G S M of the fabric Exact Diameter and Width Grey Fabric Inspection Shade Check Bias and Bowing
Visual Appearance (Enzyme Performance)
Off Line Test:
All The Off Line tests for finished fabrics can be grouped as follows –
1. Physical Test and2. Chemical Test
Physical Test:
Finished Fabric Dia G S M of Fabric Rubbing Fastness Diameter and Width Course Per inch Wales per inch Finished Fabric dia : In Knit, dyeing finishing, finished diameter is Very
important factor. It should be kept as the buyer requirements. Simply a measuring tape measures it. Finished diameter is controlled at compacting m/c.
7.5 G S M Test: G S M is the most important factor. There is a G S M Cutter. The Sample cut by this weighted in the electronic balance. The reading (in gm) from the balance multiplied by 100 to get Value of G S M.
7.6 Rubbing Fastness test:
Purpose: The fastness test to rubbing is used on a Variety of fabrics to evaluate the transfer of surface from the test fabric when it applied surface friction or rubbed against a rough surface.
Rubbing fastness test is determined by Crock meter. The test fabric is clamped in the plate of the crock meter. A standard fabric is used for rubbing the test sample. `0 cycles are given manually by a handle. Then the standard fabric is assessed with the help of the grey scale. The scale is graded from 1 to 5, being the Poorest and 5 being and 5 being the best.
7.7 Chemical Test:
Shrinkage and Spirality or Twisting Fastness to wash Fastness to Perspiration PH test
7.8 Wash fastness Test:
Purpose: The resistant of color of my dyed or printed material to washing is known as Wash fastness.
The test fabric is sewn with multifibre such that two multifibre strip remain at the both side of the test fabric. Then they are washed with the following recipe:
Liquor Ratio: 1:20
5 gm fabric + 100 cc water + 0.5% detergent + 0.10 % sodium perborate + 25 Steel balls.
Washes with: 60º c x 30 min
Then the multifibre is detached from the test fabric. It is dried and wash fastness is assessed by grey scale.
7.9 PH Check:
Purpose: To fulfill the buyer requirements to keep the pH of the fabric as Per standard.
Method: ISO
Procedure:
Take 3 Pieces of 2 gm sample Take 100ml of distilled water (pH – 5.5 to 7.5) in three Conical Flack. Shake them for 1 hrs in normal temperature.
Finally measures the pH by average them.- Standard pH range for colored fabric 6 to 8 - Standard pH range for colored fabric 5 to 8
7.10 Shrinkage and Spirality Test: Shrinkage and Spirality both are very important for control the quality of fabric. Buyer considers + 5% allowance for both Shrinkage and spirality.The scale is 50 cm long. The supplied the instrument use for this Purposes are washing m/c, measurement tape, scissors etc. The measurement Calculation of shrinkage and Spirality test are given below:
Before wash - after wash
Shrinkage % = x 100
Before wash
Remarks: Quality Control is the most important department in every Textile industry. It is strongly recommended that the Quality should be maintained as exactly the buyer’s requirements.