Intermountain West Society Of Cosmetic Chemists THE ... · By: Aaron Peterson Aaron Peterson:...

IMWSCC BoardChapter ChairJolene Kaufusi

Chair ElectSarah Adams

SecretaryStephanie Bartlett

TreasurerUyen Nguyen (Vu)

Newsletter EditorsKaren AsheKrissie Gerrard

Assistant Newsletter EditorMolly Nielsen

Newsletter PublisherBrianna Purinton

Intermountain West Society Of Cosmetic Chemists

THE COSMETIC SUMMITNewslet ter

Second Quarter 2017

Second Quarter Sponsors:

Deveraux Specialties

ET Horn

Momentive

Cooking with ChemistryThe Perfect Chocolate Chip Cookie

By: Aaron Peterson

Aaron Peterson: [email protected]

Something that became a true mission of mine was to formulate the perfect chocolate chip cookie—at least per my personal preference of taste and texture. Some of the attributes (to me) for this achievement were: 1) Taste- Sweet, not floury tasting. 2) Texture- Soft and slightly chewy, not crispy, yet having a good weight and sturdiness were critically important. 3) Reproducible- I (and others) could make it over and over again with the same result. In the reproducibility category, I didn’t want eggs to have to be at room temperature, butter perfectly softened, and flour sifted—I wanted a fail proof recipe that could be made and have some wiggle room for variability in temperature and processing. 4) Shelf Life- Cookies stay perfectly delicious for at least 2-3 days after making them—not drying out was a really important factor to me. The key difference between my cookie recipe and other recipes out there include adding more sugar and a little more fat, including just a tad of shortening. Other than that, the recipe is very similar to most.

Not to brag, but I feel like after many years (truly it took me that long) I have created the perfect chocolate chip cookie (again per my pallet and factors outlined)! However, my joy was only partial as I created the recipe using butter and eggs, which excluded two of my children from enjoying them. We have some severe food allergies in my family and my eldest and youngest have quite the variety of food and seasonal allergies. Needless to say, I felt like a failed parent since I could not make them a delicious treat that was safe for them to consume. So back to the drawing board—well at least partially. This version of the chocolate chip cookie we refer to as AJ safe (AJ stands for Angel Jane).

The good news is I have the framework for the perfect chocolate chip cookie. I even went as far as adapting, with my wife’s help and urging, to scale down the recipe for a “cookies for two size.” It works out to be about 3 cookies each so we can enjoy the treat and be done with it. In recent years, I

2 IMWSCC 2nd Quarter 2017

Table of Contents

Cooking with Chemistry p.1-3

Chemists Corner p. 5-6

The Business Brief p. 7

Patent Law 123 p. 9

IMWSCC Spotlight p. 11

Regulatory Department p. 12-14

INCI Highlight p. 15

Meeting Agenda p. 16-17

Snow 'n Learn Meeting Synopsis p. 19

Quarterly Sponsors p. 20

Read to Win!Somewhere in the newsletter we’ve hidden the IMWSCC favicon symbol it looks like this - . Spot it and email Jolene ([email protected]) the page number and place where it is and you’ll be entered in a drawing for a chance to win a gift card at the next meeting.

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Cooking with Chemistry Continued:Perfect Chocolate Chip Cookies

1 stick softened butter (I use salted, I am not a true professional)1/4 C. Butter Flavored Shortening (to me this is the key in a longer shelf life)1 C. packed brown sugar1/2 C. sugar1 tsp. vanilla extract (real vanilla)1 egg1 C. flour (q.s.)1 tsp. salt1/2 tsp. baking soda1 1/2 C. quick cook rolled oats1 C. Mini chocolate Chips (the mini chips are a must for the Mrs. as she likes her cookies full of chocolate)1 C. Chocolate Chips (we mostly use semi-sweet, but milk chocolate work as well)

Cream butter then add sugars, cream some more. Add vanilla and egg, beat well until smooth and fluffy. Add dry ingredients ensuring the flour is well mixed. Sometimes you may need to add up to 1/4 C. more flour. Dough should be soft, but not too sticky or too dry. Drop by tablespoon full onto a greased cookie sheet. Bake at 350F for 10 minutes, then allow to cool 5 minutes on the tray before moving to a wire rack for complete cooling.

AJ Safe Version

Butter is replaced with Margarine (I typically use Imperial)

Egg is replaced with Finely Ground Flax (I’ve used several brands, they all work the same)

1 Egg = 1 T. Flax + 2 T. water. Allow to sit for a few minutes as the flax absorbs the water.

I also add about 1/8 tsp. more baking soda to help with the leavening.

Cookies for 2 Version

2 T. softened butter1 T. butter flavored shortening1/4 C. packed brown sugar1/4 tsp. vanilla extract1 egg yolk1/4 C. flour 1/4 tsp. salt1/8 tsp. baking soda1/4 C. quick cook rolled oats

Almond Flour Version Cookies for 2

Replace Flour with:

1/2 C. almond flour (I’ve used Blue Diamond)2 T. Bob’s Red Mill gluten free flour(Everything else is the same)

Bake at 325 for 12 minutes and allow to rest on cookie sheets another 5 minutes before moving to cooling rack.

have severely reduced my refined sugar consumption which has been quite a challenge considering my serious addiction. I digress… Knowing the recipe has some great robustness I ventured into the dairy and egg free world.

I first tried using unflavored gelatin since my mother had used this for years at home since my baby sister has very similar allergies to that of my kids. While gelatin worked, I didn’t like the taste at all. So I kicked gelatin to the curb. I then tried flax and this worked as well, but I didn’t like the taste either. However, I felt like this taste and its nice health benefits were worth a little more doctoring. I also use margarine instead of butter: I’m lazy and always have used salted butter which I’m sure appalls any more refined baker or chef. After just a few months I was able to get my AJ Safe cookies perfected to the point that I can’t even tell the difference between this and my original recipe. The one noticeable difference is in the cookie dough. Before baking, the dough is somewhat resistant to holding on to the chocolate chips. I kind of have to push the chips into the dough more since the dough is less sticky which I attribute as a property of the flax. I also bake the cookies at 325F as opposed to 350F since the margarine has a much lower melting point than the butter.

Recently, my wife, Angel, has chosen to go gluten free for some health reasons. Her favorite treat after 10 years of marriage has become our chocolate chip cookies for two. As a die-hard chocaholic, this surprised and delighted me. However, I was now faced with a challenge once again. Angel was first to tackle this new dilemma. She tried a gluten free flour replacement and said the dough was good, but the baked result was chalky and had a bad aftertaste. I never tried one as they were all in the trash by the time I found out about them. We invested in some almond flour (invested is no joke, it ain’t cheap) and a different brand of gluten free flour. My neighbor who has celiac told me the best brand is Bob’s Red Mill, so I went out and found this specific flour. Maybe it was luck, but on my second attempt with mostly almond flour and just a small amount of the Bob’s Red Mill gluten free flour I have once again recreated the perfect chocolate chip cookie! Angel was overjoyed as was I. The now “almonded” cookies are extra filling and satisfying. The only other change is baking them at 325F as well for just a few minutes longer since it seems the almond flour does better baking at a slightly lower temperature.

We may forever be a two-cookie recipe family since my two kids with food allergies both cannot consume almonds. I could use the gluten free flour and the flax, but Angel and I like lowering carbs which we accomplish with the almond flour. I’m sure one day I will try it out since it would be nice to make a batch of cookies that my entire family could eat.

As you will notice, my recipe doesn’t look all that different from the other one billion chocolate chip cookie recipes out there. However, the small differences do make a big difference in the end for the perfect chocolate chip cookie. You can find the Perfect Chocolate Chip Cookie and Cookies for two on Angel’s website, www.fleecefun.com.


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Perry Romanowski: ChemistsCorner.com

10 Science Topics for Cosmetic Chemists That Were Barely Covered in College- Part 1By: Perry RomanowskiThe way chemistry majors typically begin their chemist careers goes something like this. In their senior year of college they start looking through the newspapers for any company looking to hire chemists. Next, they put together a resume, send in a bunch of applications and hopefully get hired. If they happen to apply to a company in the cosmetic industry, then they become cosmetic chemists.

Unfortunately, this method of not knowing what industry you will end up in leaves you ill-prepared for a job in cosmetic chemistry. Most of the stuff you learned in college will not be applicable to your job. To help bridge the gap, here are the top 10 science topics you should know about when entering the cosmetic industry. Study up before your first interview!

SurfactantsIt is amazing how little time is devoted to surfactants in college when you consider the importance they play in so many industries.

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What are they? Surfactant is a shorter way to say “surface active agent”. These are molecules that have the property of reducing surface tension, thereby allowing oil and water to form stable (temporarily) mixtures.

Examples — Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycol Distearate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Polysorbate 80

Why are they used? Surfactants are used for various purposes in cosmetic formulas including

* Detergents – for cleansing* Wetting agents — for helping formulas spread more easily* Foaming agents — to produce consumer friendly suds* Emulsifiers — to create stable mixtures of oil and water* Conditioning agents — to improve the surfaces of hair and skin* Solubilizers – to help mix fragrances into water-based formulas* Preservatives – to keep cosmetics microbe-free* Special Effects — to improve the look of certain formulasWhere can you learn more? We’ll write more about surfactants in the future but for a quick primer on the subject, see this book on surfactants on Google. For a more general discussion of surfactants, start with the Wikipedia surfactant page.

EmulsionsThis topic is related to surfactants and covered even less in college. Yet emulsions are one of the most important types of mixtures / product forms you will encounter in the cosmetic industry.

What are they? An emulsion is a fine dispersion of one insoluble liquid in another. In the cosmetic industry, the most common emulsions are ones in which oil is dispersed in water. To create emulsions, typically a surfactant is also used.

Why are they used? Emulsions are delivery systems for beneficial cosmetic ingredients. These ingredients are often incompatible with water and have undesirable aesthetic characteristics by themselves. The ingredients are mixed with water to create creams or lotions.


Where can you learn more? Look for upcoming articles on Chemists Corner about emulsions, but until then, you can see this on Google for more information. For a more general discussion of emulsions, see this emulsion entry.

Fatty AcidsWhile much college time was devoted to learning about acid-base reactions and equilibrium constants, very little time was spent looking at the properties and chain length distributions of specific acids. Those topics are much more important to cosmetic chemists.

What are they? As you learned in college, a fatty acid is a carboxylic acid with a long hydrocarbon “tail”. They are typically derived from biological sources and thus have an even number of carbon atoms. The most important fatty acids in the cosmetic industry are those that have between 8 and 22 carbons.

Examples: Lauric Acid, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Behenic Acid

Why are they used? Fatty acids are the basis for many of the surfactants used in cosmetic products. They are derived from natural oils such as coconut, palm kernel, sunflower, wheat germ, etc. They are used for the following properties in cosmetics.

* Conditioning agents – to improve the surfaces of hair and skin* Thickening — to make thin products more creamy* Secondary Emulsifiers — to help create stable mixtures of oil and water* Opacifying agents – to make formulas look more luxurious

Where can you learn more? You can find information about Fatty Acids in the following fatty acid book and a general discussion here.

To be continued in the Quarter 3 Newsletter...

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Rachel Sabin: [email protected]

By: Rachel SabinWe’ve all done it. We’ve taken our laptops and cell phones into meetings with us; we’ve typed away as we’ve congratulated ourselves on our productive multitasking. We’ve received praise from bosses for our nearly-instantaneous responses to texts and emails or scolding when our responses haven’t been quite so instantaneous. Technology and cultural norms have conditioned us to view multitasking and task switching positively, so the costs of distractions may surprise you. Multitasking and task switching actually decrease productivity, weaken mental muscles, and, surprisingly, diminish happiness.

The Time Cost of SwitchingSwitching from one task to another wastes time. If we stop working on a project to answer emails, texts, or phone calls it takes about 25% more time for us to complete our main task. (Not including all the minutes spent on those emails or texts.)1 Overall, multitasking can lead to as much as a 40% decrease in productivity.6

The Financial Cost of SwitchingA study done in 2007 found that businesses lose roughly $650 billion each year due to multitasking distractions. This research showed that not only do tasks take longer when multitasking is involved but a lack of employee concentration results in creativity deficits, which cause more profit misses.5

The Mental Cost of SwitchingWhen we switch tasks and multitask regularly, we form bad brain habits. Our mind has a harder time filtering out irrelevant information and we are more likely to make mistakes.2 The brain needs to be trained to focus fully on its task at hand, like a muscle, so habitual interruptions lead to a chronically-wandering cranium.2 But it’s not just mental wanderings that we need to worry about. Research has suggested that multitasking physically damages the mind in the area responsible for emotional control and empathy.7

Even if you are willing to sacrifice your compassion and sifting abilities for a little more texting, the next time you are writing an important email to your boss in a meeting, here’s a little something for you to consider: Your IQ decreases by 15 points, to the equivalent of an eight-year-old child, when you are multitasking.7

The Emotional Cost of SwitchingConstant connectivity also has a cost on our emotional wellbeing. Disruptions don’t just make us less productive, they make us more stressed and depressed. Trying to accomplish too many tasks at once overstimulates our brain and can make us feel anxious.5 We also don’t get the satisfaction that comes with accomplishing tasks because we have a hard time finishing anything.

What can we do to counter the cultural and technological impediments to focusing? Here’s what the experts recommend:

1. Only check emails and texts twice a day, not whenever you hear that ping or whistle. Set expectations with your coworkers so they understand that if there is an emergency they need to call you instead.12. Don’t take your laptop into meetings with you.3. Resist the urge to check your emails first thing in the morning when you get into work. Instead, every night before you leave the office ascertain your top priority for the next day and work on it for an hour or two when you get in the next morning without interruptions. Your first couple hours at work are your most productive.4. Focus on tasks for 90-120 minutes without switching. Then, take a break. You may remember this recommendation from my article last quarter.5. Can’t concentrate for 90 minutes? Train your brain to pay attention. You could start by focusing fully on a task you DON’T enjoy for 10 minutes.36. Take electronic timeouts. Turn your cell phone completely off for a couple hours at night.47. Practice meditation. It will improve your ability to concentrate and pay attention.

Reference1. Schwartz T & McCarthy C. (2007). Manage Your Energy Not Your Time. Harvard Business Review.

2. Pickert, K. (2016), The Art of Being Present. Time

3. Seppala, E. (2016) The Happiness Track: How to Apply the Science of Happiness to Accelerate Your Success. HarperCollins Publishers.

4. Seidman, E. (2016) Fourteen Ways to Jump for Joy. Time.

5. Deeb, C. (n.d.) Bad Effects of Multitasking. Small Business Chron.

6. Deeb, C. (n.d.) Multitasking Effects on a Worker’s Performance. Small Business Chron.

7. Bradberry, T. (n.d.) Multitasking Damages Your Brain and Your Career, New Studies Suggest. TalentSmart.

The Business BriefThe Multitasking Misconception


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Ryan Marshall: [email protected]

Patent Law 123The Duty of Disclosure

As discussed in prior columns, a patent examiner’s job includes identifying the closest prior art to a claimed invention and assessing whether that claimed invention is patentable. While the patent examiner conducts searches to assess whether the elements of the claim invention exist in the prior art, the examiner also relies on the patent applicant to identify prior art. What duty, then, does a patent applicant have to reveal about what is known about the prior art?

Because inventors are often the most informed about the distinctiveness as well as the similarity of an invention to conventional technology, the inventors often are the best source for identifying prior art that is germane to examination. This reality coupled with the policy of protecting the public interest from improper patent exclusivity gave rise to an important obligation: the duty of disclosure also referred to as the duty of candor.

In fact, the duty of disclosure is so critical to the patent system, that the rules governing what must be disclosed and by whom should be reviewed before filing a patent application. 37 CFR 1.37 states, “The public interest is best served, and the most effective patent examination occurs when, at the time an application is being examined, the Office is aware of and evaluates the teachings of all information material to patentability.”

Additionally, the rule requires everyone involved with filing and prosecuting a patent application to act in good faith including disclosing all information known to that individual to be material to patentability. The duty continues until a claim is either cancelled, abandoned, or granted.

A patent applicant’s duty is deemed to be satisfied if all information known to be material is either cited by the applicant or the examiner.

Applicants use a procedure at the U.S. patent office to identify potentially material information by submitting Information Disclosure Statements (also called an IDS). An IDS is often a list or statements identifying the information that should be considered by an examiner. Often, an applicant submits multiple IDS documents as examination proceeds or when new information comes to light.

Here are a few common situations in which the applicant should submit an IDS to an examiner:

By: Ryan Marshall• the closest information that the inventors consider to be associated with the claimed invention (this information is often acknowledged in the “Background of the Invention” section of the patent application) • patent or journal articles cited in search reports from a foreign patent office in a counterpart application

• when the inventor or applicant becomes aware of some defect or inoperability• information which refutes or is inconsistent with a position the applicant takes in opposing an unpatentability position raised by the patent office, or an argument advanced by the applicant for patentability.

Who must disclose information to the patent office? • each inventor named in the application• each attorney or agent who prepares or prosecutes the application • every other person who is substantively involved in the preparation or prosecution of the application and who is associated

with the inventor, with the assignee or with anyone to whom there is an

obligation to assign the applicationKeep in mind that if or when patents are enforced, patent challengers will seek

discovery to ascertain whether someone withheld information from the patent office. If so, they will

argue that the patent should be unenforceable because of inequitable conduct arising from someone’s failure to fulfill their duty of disclosure. Best practice in patent prosecution, therefore, errs on the side of liberally identifying references and information in IDS submissions. That way the examiner has the best information, and the patentee can avoid being charged with inequitable conduct. If you are uncertain whether information is material to patentability, you are deemed to have satisfied your duty of disclosure if you went ahead and provided the information to the patent examiner during examination.

This article is intended to provide information of general interest to the public and is not intended to offer legal advice about specific situations or problems. Brinks Gilson & Lione does not intend to create an attorney-client relationship by offering this information, and review of the information shall not be deemed to create such a relationship. You should consult a lawyer if you have a legal matter requiring attention. For further information, please contact a Brinks Gilson & Lione lawyer.


You need more information about our products?Please contact our subsidiary SILAB Inc.:email: [email protected]: 732-335-1030

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EmploymentJob opportunities are listed and updated on the Intermountain West SCC website under the Employment tab. Please go to website for detailed postings and contact information.

Current job listings include:

• Natural Cosmetics Formulator

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SCC EventsThe SCC website maintains a master calendar of all the chapter meetings under the events tab. A few of the biggest events coming up include:

• Early Bird Registration Deadline for the 2017 Annual Scientific Meeting, May 31

• 1st Intercontinental Personal Care Excellence Conference (IPCE) in Stresa, Italy, June 18-20

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• California Supplier’s Day, October 25-26

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Spotlight:Sarah Snow

Where were you born?

Santa Clara, CA…but I’m an Oregon Girl at heart.

Favorite leisure activity?

Anything creative (drawing, painting, sewing, cooking)

Who was your first role model or hero?

Batman! (Maybe I took this question too literally…)

If you had to pick a last meal, what would it be?

Sushi!

What is your favorite color?

I don't have one.

What would your ultimate vacation be?

Throw a dart on the world map and go where ever it lands…I would try to aim for land. Or maybe something like Survivor where I know I am safe but I can try surviving with my own skills.

What would someone meeting you for the first time be most surprised to learn?

I don’t know if this is surprising, but I am a huge nerd...like an “I don’t have to google the meaning of the after-credit scenes in Marvel movies” level nerd.

If you could go back and give 5-year-old Sarah one piece of advice, what would it be?

I think 5-year-old Sarah was the coolest, so I would probably take some advice from her. Maybe I’d tell her some companies to invest in.

Favorite TV/web show?

It’s between Shark Tank and the Great British Baking Show

On any given weekend, what are you most likely to be doing?

Running errands with my husband or maybe playing video games for a bit.


“Well, some ingredients in this product can only be used in drugs, you’re going to have to switch preservatives, organic claims might only be valid in the United States, fragrance free will have to be changed, and we’ll need to apply for INCI names for our “exclusive” ingredients.”

After my comments, I looked around the room at the disgruntled faces of the executives, as Regulatory Affairs (otherwise known as “the department of sales prevention”) had once again lived up to its inglorious moniker.

After the meeting, I asked that R&D cancel the pilot if possible, change the preservative system, adjust the total percent of preservative to formula, and apply for INCI names. I also started doing more digging. I later cancelled the new ingredient/finished product testing on animals and cancelled the efficacy tests for acne, anti-bacterial properties, and rosacea/skin irritation reduction. Simply put, they had a product they couldn’t sell with claims that couldn’t be validated.

Formulating and selling products is hard enough. Regulatory issues are not front of mind for many cosmetic scientists, marketing teams, and executives. Regulatory information is vital to making sure teams don’t waste their time developing enforcement-prone products.

What do I need to know before I begin developing my cosmetic product?

Vital Regulatory InformationA few questions need to be investigated before you begin further developing your product.

1. Is the product going to be allowed in our current and future markets?

Regulations are different from country to country and are especially diverse for preservatives, whitening agents, sunscreens, colorants, testing methods, classifications, and claims. USA regulatory scheme is very different from many other countries.

Many countries have exclusive lists and classifications of ingredients. These requirements can differ greatly from market to market. For example, Europe banned methylisothiazolinone

D. Scott Taylor

Scott Taylor: [email protected]

Cosmetic Product Development – How to Avoid Regulatory Issues

(MI) in leave-on products; however, MI is still allowed in other markets.

Tip: First check your active ingredients before you go into further product development stages.

2. Will the introduction of certain ingredients change the classification of the product?

Some ingredients, regardless of the function, may cause ingredients to be classified as drugs. Some countries classify sunscreens as cosmetics whereas others classify it as a drug. This is usually a concern for your active ingredients, but changes in classification may also be caused by colorants, preservatives, and other ingredients.

Tip: Do an analysis of product classifications and review all the proposed ingredients for regulatory issues.

3. Which claims can be made and what are the s u b s t a n t i a t i o n /testing requirements?

If you know the types of claims you’d like to

make you can check these claims in advance. For example, claiming anti-aging might be fine for Canada but it will cause the product to be classified as a drug in Korea. Some markets may say that anti-aging is an illegal claim because it can’t be proven.

Some markets also require that testing be carried out in approved facilities. Sometimes this can add weeks and even months to the development process. These countries may require specific tests according to the type of product or the ingredients.

Tip: Make a list of claims you’d like to make on the product and see what regulatory issues might arise with these claims. Check the substantiation and testing requirements beforehand.

4. Do the manufacturers have the necessary doåcumentation/certifications for the registration processes?

Before purchasing the product make sure you have a way of obtaining all the regulatory information you need for each market. Make sure that the manufacturer can meet international QA/QC requirements.

Tip: Review manufacturer documentation for the product and the facility before entering into an agreement. Have


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Scott TaylorThe Regulatory Department(801) [email protected]

your regulatory plan requirements as part of the Master Service Agreement (MSA) with the supplier.

5. What are the disclosure requirements?

If your executive team is not willing to disclose their formula to the government, the product might not be able to enter some countries. Some countries require notification or registration of the cosmetic products. Part of this process requires disclosing your formula to either responsible persons or to governments.

6. What changes in the foreseeable future will affect the acceptability of this product? (Remember companies were given six months to formulate MI out of European products)

Tip: Subscribe to different regulatory databases and cosmetic update journals.

If these questions are answered beforehand then R&D has the parameters to build their formulation. Ingredients can be selected from acceptable manufacturers and reformulation will not be required for regulatory reasons.

SuggestionsWhen I work with formulation houses and R&D groups I give them suggestions to avoiding these pitfalls. These suggestions cut down the time and frustration with the product development process.

• Involve regulatory from the start

• Have access to up-to-date regulatory information on the ingredients and claims

• Review actives and claims before you begin formulating

• Discuss with each department possible roadblocks and regulatory issues before development begins

Prevention vs ReactionUsing sunscreen is easier and more cost effective than getting rid of melanoma. By coordinating formulation activities with regulatory research, you can optimize your chances of having a viable formula for the US and international markets. Not only will you save money, mitigate the risk of reformulation, you will also be able to spend more time working on the more exciting portions of creating innovative cosmetics.

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Ryan Roberts: [email protected]

By: Ryan Roberts

INCI HighlightMenthol

receive the L-menthol version. Plants that produce menthol will normally only make the L enantiomer. From synthetic sources, you will normally get a racemic mixture of the 2 enantiomers called DL-menthol. There are specialized processes that material manufacturers can take to primarily produce just the desired enantiomer from synthetic sources. For the desired cooling and other sensory benefits, you will need the L-enantiomer. Menthol is oil soluble and will often come in crystals that you will need to dissolve in your oil phase while incorporating into your formulation.

Menthol is a commonly used personal care ingredient used in formulations to give a cooling and calming effect. It can take a simple, boring product and gives it an instant perceivable punch. When used in certain classes of products it can be an OTC active ingredient as well. Menthol can be derived from natural sources such as corn mint oil, peppermint oil, and other mint oils or synthetically produced. There are 2 primary enantiomers that are seen in raw materials used in the personal care industry: D-menthol and L-menthol. If you are getting your menthol from a natural source you will

Lipo to become


Speech & SplashIMWSCC 2nd Quarter Meeting

May 17 , 2017Draper, Utah

Schedule7:30am – Registration, & check-in

8:00am – Breakfast

9:00am – Announcements & quarter sponsor remarks

9:15am – Susan Sperring, Methods to Enhance Instant Benefits in Anti-Aging Skin Care

10:30am – Break

10:45am – Dr. Yun Shao, Properties of Inorganic UV Filters and their Global Regulations

12:00pm – Lunch

1:00pm – Tour the aquarium at your own pleasure and pace

Thanks for your attendance!


Presenters for Speech & SplashYun Shao, PhDKobo Products Inc.

Methods to Enhance Instant Benefits in Anti-Aging Skin Care

As most biological actives take time to begin to show results, cosmetic formu-lators are turning to cosmetic particles to produce the instant benefits that consumers desire when using anti-aging products. Commonly referred to as “soft focus effect,” these topical line blurring ingredients can instantly

help reduce the look of many skin imperfections such as lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation thus giving consumers instant gratification while the anti-aging actives are working at the bio-logical level. We will discuss the physics of light and reflection as well as the effects that properties such as refractive index and particle size of optical diffusers have on the overall performance of a formulation.

Susan Sperring is currently the Senior Technical Manager at Sym-rise. Previously, she was with Momentive Performance Materials for five years acting as the North American Marketing Manager for Personal Care and Home Care. Prior to Momentive, she spent 12 years at Avon Products where she was a chemist for Global Skin Care. At Avon Products she formulated over 100 products under Avon’s Anew, Bronze and beComing lines including the Anew Ulti-mate 7S line and the award winning Anew Reversalist Eye System. Susan has a Bachelor’s degree in Chemistry from State University of New York-College at Oneonta and a Masters in Cosmetic Sci-ence from Fairleigh Dickinson University.

Susan SperringSymrise Inc.

Properties of Inorganic UV fil-ters and their Global RegulationsDr. Yun Shao joined Kobo Products Inc. in 1996 and currently serves as the Vice President of R&D. He has 20 years of experience in micro TiO2 and ZnO de-velopment as well as inorganic sunscreen technology and regulations. He is also experienced in pigment surface treat-ment, wet grinding, specialty cosmetic

ingredients, color cosmetics, and global cosmetic ingredient regulations. He has presented his work in various scientific con-ferences including IFSCC congress and FLSCC Sunscreen Sym-posium. Dr. Shao holds five US patents and has co-authored several chapter books and technical papers on surface treatment and inorganic sunscreen formulations.

Dr. Shao earned his Ph.D. in Polymer Chemistry from Rensse-laer Polytechnic Institute and his B.S. in Applied Chemistry from University of Science and Technology of China. He is a member of the SCC, Chinese American Cosmetic Professionals Associa-tion, and Tristate CACS.

TnT Aug 23-24

Midway, UtahJoin us for learning and golf at Talks 'n Tees. August 23th - TnT Seminar location TBD. The cost is $50 for SCC members/vendors and $75 for non-members. Breakfast begins at 8am followed by the meeting from 9am to noon. Lunch will be included following the meeting.

August 24th - The IMWSCC Annual Golf Outing at the Wasatch Mountain Golf Course. The cost is $100 per player or $400 per team of 4 players. This price includes a golf cart. Clubs can be rented for an additional fee. Pre-registration is required.Please visit our sponosor page to learn about opportunities to sponsor this event.


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IMWSCC Newsletter 2017 - PRENSA.pdf 1 31/01/2017 10:59:03 a.m.

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Snow 'n Learn RecapSarah Snow: [email protected]

By: Sarah SnowWe are off to great start this year with our First Quarter meeting in Park City where the weather was the star of the show! Many of us enjoyed tubing while others enjoyed skiing and snowboarding. Whichever way you chose to get down the mountain, we hope you had a good time.

We had a fantastic review for formulators on every experience level from Eric Abrutyn, as he covered ways to optimize the functional ingredients in our formulas. We also had an innovative introduction to liposomes from Dr. Bruce Baretz.

We would like to thank everyone who attended and continue to support our chapter.

Tel: 818.700.0071 • Fax: 818.700.1301 • www.chemteccc.com


IMWSCC would like to thank our Second Quarter

Meeting Sponsors:

Deveraux Specialties

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