INSTRUCTION GUIDE Dillard's · PDF fileside seams roll to the front of the garment evenly. To...

GUIDE

Dillard's Product Development

Revised 2/21/07

INSTRUCTIONThis manual is to provide clear instructions on how to take measurements on a finished garment for Dillard's Private Label. Each point of measure has a code, and this manual contains the illustrations and descriptions for each code.

This manual is for use with all classifications of apparel including Men's, Women's, and Children's. The guidelines below will instruct you on how to handle the garment properly before and while taking the measurements.

All measurements are to be taken with the garment laid flat and in a natural position, free of tension. Wrinkles or creases should be gently smoothed out. When crinkle-type fabrics are used, DO NOT STRETCH OUT THE CRINKLES.

All measurements are to be taken with a standard measuring tape. Fiberglass tapes are preferred for use on all garments, although metal tapes are acceptable for sweaters. The tape must be checked periodically for accuracy against a steel ruler.

It is important to check whether gathers, shirring, or pleats are to be smoothed flat or left closed or natural for measuring. Please read the measurement points carefully.

For garments with the back panel larger than the front panel, be sure to make the side seams roll to the front of the garment evenly.

To accurately measure a top garment, (such as a shirt, blouse, blazer, polo shirt, T-shirt, dress, coat, etc.) please ensure that the front and back armholes are flat at the underarm seam, the shoulder seams may roll forward when the armholes are even.

The "H.P.S." is the High Point of the Shoulder. When a shirt top is laid flat on a table, the H.P.S. is not necessarily at the shoulder seam. Edges of collars and neck bindings are also not necessarily the H.P.S. It is the highest point of the pattern excluding seam allowances and trims. THE SHOULDER SEAMS SHOULD NOT BE FORCED TO BE AT THE HIGH POINT OF THE SHOULDER.

To ensure the two H.P.S. are placed correctly, the front and back armholes should be laid flat at the underarm seam. All measurements involving the H.P.S. should be taken as the shoulder falls naturally. An imaginary line connects the two H.P.S. (this line is illustrated and labeled in this manual when necessary). This line is very important to determine the neck width, neck drop, some pocket placements, and body length measurements.

IG 1

GUIDE


Revised 2/21/07

INSTRUCTION

Garments should be measured with all fastenings, buttons, zippers, and overlaps fully closed. For buttoned garments, the button shank should be placed at the furthest end of the buttonhole for any circumference/girth measurements.

Trim that extends past the finished edge or seam is NOT included in any of the measurement points in this manual.

Unless otherwise noted, when measuring along seam lines, curves should be followed and NOT distorted or straightened.

Measuring using the 3-Point Method - used for High Hip and Low Hip points of measure. Measure down the specified distance and mark at the center and each side. Then take the measurement connecting these 3 points - it usually makes a “V” shape.

Sweaters and Cut and Sew Knit Garments

Hold the garment from both shoulders and gently shake before placing on the table.

With the garment in a relaxed position, pat softly to eliminate folds or wrinkles.

Measure the garment without moving or shifting.

DO NOT STRETCH the garment unless taking a measurement which requires stretching.

IMPORTANT NOTES FOR SPECIAL ITEMS

Heavy Weight Poly-filled Coats/Jackets

If specified, turn the garment inside out to measure the chest, armhole, muscle, and hood (if filled). The body length, sleeve, sweep, neck width, neck drops, and other details should be measured on the outside of the garment.

Each point on the garment should be measured with the fill compressed as much aspossible so as not to distort the measurements. This can be achieved by pressing out the excess air before/during each measurement.

IG 2

GUIDE

Product Development

Revised 9/25/09

INSTRUCTION

Bias Cut Garments

Hold the garment from both shoulders (for Tops) or from waistline (for Bottoms) and gently shake before placing on the table.

Smooth the garment with your hands along the fabric grain in an "X" to stabilize it. Then, measure the length first with the garment in a relaxed and flat position. Please see the illustration in Special Instructions.

Continue to measure the other points without moving or shifting the garment's position.

IMPORTANT NOTES FOR SPECIAL ITEMS

Special Notes

The "H" at the end of a measurement code indicates the measurement should be taken as a "single" or "half" measurement. The "F" at the end of a measurement code indicates the measurement should be taken as a "double" or "full" measure-ment. If there is no indication, the measurement is single, and the garment is laid flat.

If seam allowances cause excessive bulk when measuring, roll the garment until a flat surface has been obtained.

Letters added to the ends of the point codes (other than H and F) are for grading and do not change the manner in which the point is measured. These are not included in this manual, they are only in the grade tables. The same is true for anything in parenthesis at the end of the point name.

IG 3

GA=Grade Accordingly-Vendor is allowed to grade a "grade accordingly point" to create a smooth transition, from two specialized points of measure, an examplewould be Knee grade when Thigh and Ankle grades are given.

SS=Size Specified-Size specified is used to insure garment Inseam or Sleeve Length is produced based on the Length ordered on Dillard's Purchase Order.

GUIDE

Product Development

Revised 9/25/09

INSTRUCTION

Abbreviations used in this Manual

CB Center Back CF Center Front AH Arm Hole BB Bottom of Band TB Top of Band GA Grade Accordingly

SS Size Specified

IG 3-2

GUIDE


Revised 2/21/07

INSTRUCTION

Special Notes

When measuring a garment with multi-needle coverstitching on a seam, but the seamitself is not visible, use the center of the coverstitching as the seam. Please see theillustration in Special Instructions.

For a garment with felled seams (such as a jean), the front rise, back rise, and inseammeasurements should be taken from the center of the intersection of the felled seams.Please see the illustration in Special Instructions.

Please see the illustration on the following pages for instructions on how to measure stretch and recovery percentage when needed.

IG 4

INDEX

Dillard'sProduct Development

Revised 09/25/17

CODE DEFINITION BOOK PAGES

CODE

INDEX 1

AB Across Back Tops 31-38

AC Across Chest Tops 39-46

AH Armhole Tops 92-100

AS Across Shoulder Tops 15-19

AU Upper Arm Tops 101-102

BB Bib/Yoke Top Components 69-78

BC Bra Cup Undergarments 1-6

BE Belt Components 51-59

BL Body Length Tops 1-10

BR Bra Band Undergarments 7-19

BT Bootie Components 79-83

BW Bow Components 84-88

CA Calf Bottoms 60-61

CF Cuffs Components 108-119

CH Chest Tops 47-59

CL Collar Components 89-99

CP Collar Point Components 100-105

CS Collar Tie Space/Spread Components 106-107

DS Drawstring Components 120-124

FF Fly Components 200-203

GS Gusset Components 126-127

GL Gloves Components 209-218

INDEX


Revised 09/25/17


CODE

INDEX 2

HB Hip (Bottoms) Components 37-52

HD Hood Components 144-151

HE Headband Components 130-134

HH Hip (Non-Bottom) Tops 70-78

HM Hem Height Tops 89-91

HO Socks Hosiery 1-16

HT Hat Components 135-143

IN Inseam Bottoms 72-74

KN Knee Bottoms 57-59

LO Leg Opening Bottoms 62-68

LP Loops Components 60-68

MW Half Moon Components 128-129

ND Neck Drop Tops 115-127

NO Neck Opening Tops 128-133

NW Neck width Tops 134-137

OT Outseam Bottoms 75-77

PB Pocket Placement below Waist (Bottoms) Components 17-27

PC Pocket Placement at Chest Components 1-5

PD Pleats Components 161-163

PH Pocket Placement at Hip Components 9-16

PK Pocket Components 28-50

PL Placket Components 152-160

INDEX


Revised 09/25/17


CODE

INDEX 3

PW Pocket Placement at Waist Components 6-8

RB Rise (Back) Bottoms 31-34

RF Rise (Front) Bottoms 27-30

RT Rise Total Bottoms 35-36

SH Shoulder (Slope, Width, Strap) Tops 20-30

SK Skirt (Length, Width, Sweep) Bottoms 1-10

SL Sleeve Length Tops 103-106

SO Sleeve Opening Tops 107-114

SP Shoulder Pad Components 164-166

SS Straps Components 167-174

ST Stirrups Bottoms 69-71

SV Slit/Vent Components 175-179

SW Sweep (Non-Bottoms) Tops 79-88

TH Thigh Bottoms 53-56

TI Ties Components 180-186

TT Torso Length Tops 11-14

UB Underwear-Back Coverage Undergarments 36-38

UC Underwear-Crotch Undergarments 44-49

UF Underwear-Front Coverage Undergarments 33-35

UH Underwear-Hip Undergarments 25-28

UI Underwear-Inseam Undergarments 53

UL Underwear-Leg Opening Undergarments 39-43

INDEX


Revised 09/25/17


CODE

INDEX 4

UO Underwear-Fly Undergarments 54-59

UP Underwear-Panels Undergarments 29-32

UR Underwear-Rise Undergarments 22-24

US Underwear-Side Undergarments 50-52

UW Underwear-Waist Undergarments 20-21

WA Waistband Bottoms 23-26

WB Waist (Bottom) Bottoms 14-22

WK Wrap Skirt Bottoms 11-13

WW Waist (Non-Bottom) Tops 60-69

YK Yoke Components 187-199

ZP Zipper Components 204-208

SPECIAL


Revised 2/21/07

INSTRUCTIONS

Bias Cut Garments

Measurement instructions: See page 2 in the Important Notes for Special Items, section called Bias Cut Garments.

SI 1

SPECIAL


INSTRUCTIONS

Garments with Coverstitching over Seams

Measure from center to center of the coverstitching.

SI 2 Revised 2/21/07

SPECIAL


INSTRUCTIONS

Garments with Felled Seams

The Front Rise, Back Rise, and Inseam measurements should be taken from the

center of the seam intersection.

Revised 2/21/07SI 3

SPECIAL


INSTRUCTIONS

Garments with Elasic Bands/Cuffs-Relaxed

Measure at center of elastic from fold to fold.

Revised 2/21/07SI 4

SPECIAL


INSTRUCTIONS

Garments with Rib Bands/Cuffs-Relaxed

Measure at edge of rib from fold to fold.

Revised 2/21/07SI 5

SPECIAL


INSTRUCTIONS

Garments with Rib Bands/Cuffs-Extended

Extend garment as far as fabric will allow without overextending.Measure along join seam.

Revised 2/21/07SI 6

SPECIAL


INSTRUCTIONS

Stretch Percentage #1

With fabric relaxed, mark 5" in the warp or weft direction.Hold and place the fabric close to the Stretch Percentage Ruler.

INCHES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Mark at 5"

Pull to determine% of stretch

Fabric Fold

0%

20 40 60 80100%

Revised 2/21/07SI 7

SPECIAL


INSTRUCTIONS


Stretch the fabric until it just starts to bow. DO NOT OVER STRETCH!If 5 inches easily stretches to 10 inches, the the fabric has 100% stretch.

INCHES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Mark at 5"


Fabric Fold

0%

20 40 60 80100%

Revised 2/21/07SI 8

SPECIAL


INSTRUCTIONS


Release the fabric immediately after it has been stretched, pat lightlyto relax the fabric. If the fabric returned to 5 inches, then the fabrichas 100% recovery.

Example: If the fabric returns to 6 inches, then the recovery is 83%.Calculation is 5 divided by 6 = 0.83 or 83%.

INCHES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Mark at 5"


Fabric Fold

0%

20 40 60 80100%

Revised 2/21/07SI 9

SPECIAL


INSTRUCTIONS

HPS-Imaginary Line

With garment laid flat and armhole seams matched at underarm, the point where the shoulder meets the side neck is the High Point Shoulder or HPS.It may not necessarily be the shoulder seam.

High Point Shoulder

Revised 2/21/07SI 10

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