Insider 2012 01 18

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Wine Spectator Insider Jan. 18, 2012 To subscribe, visit www.winespectator.com1

Vol. 8, No. 3 | Jan. 18, 2012

Mrv R. S Editor and Publisher

Château angéluSS.-E 200996 s | $345 | 8,165 css m | RRich and rather stolid now, this features a wall of roasted apple

wood and charcoal avors in front of the dense core of black Mis-

sion g, steeped black currant fruit and espresso notes. Extremely

dense on the nish, but the inlaid spice and tobacco hints are

there just beneath the surface, needing only extended cellaring to

emerge fully. One of the larger-scaled efforts of the vintage. Best

from 2018 through 2035.— J.M.

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BVieux Château CeRtanPe 200997 s | $280 | 4,300 css m | RThis shows gorgeous silk and polish, brimming with beguiling

plum, cherry eau de vie and red currant fruit avors laced with

supple toasty vanilla and cedar hints. But in the background brews

a darker side, with loam, maduro tobacco and iron notes, which

take over on the nish. This feels like it will get a lot bigger before

it fully melds—and that will be awhile. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon

and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2018 through 2035.— J.M.

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La Mondotte owner Stephan von Neipperg

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Château Canon-la gaffelièReS.-E 200996 s | $95 | 5,140 css m | RThis is well-cloaked for now in roasted vanilla and espresso notes,

but there’s ample, eshy g sauce and mulled blackberry fruit in

reserve. The nish sports a long melted licorice snap feel. Dense,

but beautifully polished and pure. For the cellar. Best from 2015

through 2030.— J.M.

Château la ConSeillantePe 200996 s | $245 | 4,000 css m | RThis delivers stunning toasted spice, mocha and black tea aromas,

while the core of plum, blackberry and g avors is still rather

reticent. The long nish is liberally laced with a racy graphite note,

while the perfumy accent pervades. This will be a suave head-turn-

er when it rounds into form. Best from 2018 through 2030.— J.M.

Château figeaCS.-E 200996 s | $250 | na css m | R

Distinctive, with atypical (for St.-Emilion) force and drive to theblack currant, roasted cedar and maduro tobacco avors, which

are supported by a dense, loam-tinged structure. Terric roasted

espresso, ganache and g paste notes wait in reserve. Very

muscular, but with the cut for balance. Best from 2017 through

2035.— J.M.

la MondotteS.-E 200996 s | $375 | 690 css m | RThis is grace and power, delivering stunning Lapsang souchong

tea and pain d’épices aromatics, followed by incredibly lush, yet

rened blackberry, steeped black currant and dark plum sauce

avors. The long, velvety nish hangs perfectly, with buried miner-ality giving just the crease for denition. Best from 2015 through

2030.— J.M.

Château peBy faugèReSS.-E 200996 s | $95 | 1,000 css m | RThis is gorgeous, featuring a torrent of raspberry and blackberry

fruit that blazes along, thanks to riveting acidity that just won’t

quit. Loads of spice, black tea and perfectly integrated toast

notes hold sway on the very sleek nish for now, but this is really

stunning for its beam of pure fruit. Wow. Best from 2015 through

2030.— J.M.

Château BeauSéjouR duffau-lagaRoSSeS.-E 200995 s | $170 | 1,540 css m | RFocused power. This muscular red shows drive, yet remains grace-

ful, with fresh plum and currant avors, backed by mineral, tar

and oral notes. The dense texture stays fresh through the sweet,

spicy nish. Best from 2014 through 2030.—T.M.

Château lafleuRPe 200995 s | $1,600 | 950 css m | RThis gushes with mouthwatering blueberry, boysenberry and

blackberry fruit, leading to a long black tea- and incense-lled

nish. Darkens up considerably as it airs, with layers of extra esh,

Kenya AA coffee and charcoal notes striding through the nish.

Shows an exotic side, and gorgeous mouthfeel. Best from 2015


Château paVie MaCquinS.-E 200995 s | $95 | 3,750 css m | RHyperlush, with very creamy g, blackberry and boysenberry a-

vors that stay well-dened, as charred apple wood, black tea and

singed vanilla bean notes stride in behind. The long, authoritative

nish drips with fruit and toasted spice, offering grip for balance.

Very impressive. Best from 2014 through 2030.— J.M.

Château ClinetPe 2009

94 s | $225 | 3,750 css m | RVery lush and exotic, boasting plum sauce, crushed g, warm

raspberry conture and steeped black currant fruit all dripping

over a racy but buried graphite spine. The long, dark nish has

plenty of stufng for the long haul. Really beautifully rendered.

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2015


CloS de l’oRatoiReS.-E 200994 s | $40 | 2,250 css m | RThis is very suave, with mocha and smoldering tobacco avors

laced with g, plum and blackberry notes. A ash of sweet tap-

enade and iron helps extend the nish, which has lovely latentminerality. This shows great restraint, considering its power of

fruit. Best from 2015 through 2027.— J.M.

CloS l’égliSePe 200994 s | $200 | 1,000 css m | RThis rich, toasty, showy style boasts lots of ashy anise and

espresso notes up front, but ample layers of crushed g, steeped

plum and dark mixed berry fruit behind it. Nice grip strides in on

the nish, with a graphite spine adding serious length and deni-

tion. This has plenty of steak to match its sizzle. Best from 2015


Château le gayPe 200994 s | $120 | 1,500 css m | RVery fresh and pure, this displays a lovely tobacco streak cut-

ting through the enticing core of crushed plum, mulled raspberry

and dark g fruit. Long and racy on the nish, with singed cedar

nicely embedded. Has opulence but stays focused. Best from 2013


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Château MonBouSquetS.-E 200994 s | $50 | 7,500 css m | RThis very structured, but polished, style shows a solid coat of

coffee for the large core of crushed g, plum sauce and steeped

black currant fruit. Stays dense, but has a strong graphite and iron

edge buried deeply on the nish, which should let this assimilate

in the cellar. Lovely mineral, sanguine edge. Beautifully built. Best


pRoVidenCePe 200994 s | $135 | 1,400 css m | RCaptivating, with Lapsang souchong tea and incense avors up

front, followed by creamy-textured plum and g sauce, blackberry

preserve and ganache notes, which sail through the long, smoky

and creamy nish. Best from 2013 through 2030.— J.M.

Château ValandRaudS.-E 200994 s | $330 | 1,080 css m | R

Racy and beautifully dened, with a sleek graphite frame to themouthwatering loganberry, blackberry and linzer torte avors.

Shows lots of toasted spice on the nish, but is well-integrated,

with a gorgeous mouthfeel. This has ample fruit, but remains very

suave. Best from 2013 through 2025.— J.M.

Château BaRde-hautS.-E 200993 s | $40 | 3,330 css m | RThis shows a lightly roasted edge, leading to coffee and warm

blackberry conture avors followed by slightly jammy plum and

black cherry cobbler notes. The lush nish picks up denition,

though, with a nice singed apple wood note and solid drive. Mer-

lot and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2013 through 2025.— J.M.

Château CanonS.-E 200993 s | $145 | 4,415 css m | RThis is a creamy, lush hedonist’s wine, with suave, textured layers

of g sauce, pureed plum and cassis woven with hints of mocha

and pain d’épices. Picks up grip though, joined by a roasted mes-

quite hint on the nish for added length. Best from 2014 through

2025.— J.M.

CloS fouRtetS.-E 2009

93 s | $105 | 3,750 css m | RRather ripe, but nicely framed by singed apple wood, which keeps

the core of damson plum, black currant and black cherry avors at

bay for now. Licorice root and black tea notes undercut the nish,

which is on the grippy side. This opens steadily in the glass, too.

Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2014


CloS l’égliSePe Esp e l’Ése 200993 s | $45 | 330 css m | RVery open and inviting at rst, this features steeped black currant,

anise and smoldering tobacco avors leading the way, followed

by equally rich notes of g paste and ganache on the nish. Turns

dense and almost loamy through the nish, with lots in reserve.Merlot. Best from 2014 through 2030.— J.M.

Château la doMiniqueS.-E 200993 s | $45 | 8,330 css m | RThis sports a dark, roasted feel, as espresso and charcoal notes

ank the core of tobacco and dark g avors. Has a burly edge

now, but shows ample esh through the nish. Should settle down

in the cellar. Lots here. Best from 2014 through 2027.— J.M.

Château faugèReSS.-E 2009

93 s | $40 | 5,000 css m | RDense in its layers of blackberry, linzer torte and plum sauce, but

caressing in feel, with silky structure and a long nish that has

a well-buried, chalky minerality. Almost approachable now, but

the precision and balance are there for the cellar. Best from 2013


Château fleuR CaRdinaleS.-E 200993 s | $40 | 6,500 css m | RThis delivers the textbook panoply of blueberry, plum and black-

berry fruit of the appellation, with a lush, creamy mouthfeel and

a long licorice- and sweet toast-lled nish. Along with the suave

fruit, there’s latent grip that should mellow nicely with midterm

cellaring. Best from 2013 through 2023.— J.M.

la fleuR de BoüaRdle-e-Pe le Ps 200993 s | $145 | 250 css m | RThis full-throttle red bets on power, with a thick, syrupy texture

and muscular, body armor tannins. The avor range is dominated

by sanguine, mineral and espresso notes, but there’s a core of

blackberry and currant avors. Thanks to fresh acidity, this re-

mains balanced and alluring. Best from 2014 through 2028.—T.M.

Château Fonplégade, in St.-Emilion

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Château neninPe 200993 s | $60 | 4,580 css m | RThis is a noticeably grippier style, showing a chunky edge to the

bittersweet cocoa and charcoal notes which support the core of

dark g and blackberry fruit. This has good, racy structure though

so it should settle down with cellaring. Best from 2014 through

2027.— J.M.

Château petit-VillagePe 200993 s | $60 | 1,900 css m | RThis darker, toastier style delivers plush cocoa and plum sauce

aromas and avors to lead the way, liberally laced with notes of

pain d’épices, g and blackberry conture. Fleshy edges build

through the nish, with impressive grip. A property steadily on the

rise. Best from 2014 through 2027.— J.M.

Château Rol ValentinS.-E 200993 s | $45 | 2,330 css m | R

A eshy, inviting style, with lots of crushed g and steepedblackberry fruit woven with warmed cocoa and pain d’épices, all

backed by a distinctly racy graphite note. Stays eshy through the

nish without being heavy. Best from 2013 through 2028.— J.M.

Château teySSieRS.-E le cé 200993 s | $143 | 300 css m | RThis is densely layered, displaying a creamy edge that makes the

plum sauce, roasted g and blackberry paste avors seem acces-

sible now, but the dense bittersweet cocoa and blueberry reduc-

tion notes add grip on the nish, and will require cellaring to meld

fully. Best from 2014 through 2026.— J.M.

Château fonplégadeS.-E 200993 s | $40 | 2,750 css m | RThis expressive red delivers plum, blackberry, espresso and

mineral avors that drive through the palate, supported by rm,

well-integrated tannins. Savory and toasty, with a dark, racy nish.

Drink now through 2020.—T.M.

Château gazinPe 200993 s | $95 | 5,541 css m | RThis has it all in place—dark, smoldering tobacco and cocoa notes,

rich plum sauce, braised g and steeped black currant fruit, joined

by lengthy, mouthcoating, tar-tinged grip. Still youthfully raw,

though, so cellar for maximum effect. Best from 2014 through

2028.— J.M.

Château hoSannaPe 200993 s | $330 | 1,100 css m | RThere is a lovely plush feel here, with roasted tobacco and g

notes carried by velvety tannins. Deceptively dense, with darkercurrant and anise notes blossoming through the nish, which still

manages to stay supple and rounded. This steadily opens in the

glass. Best from 2013 through 2028.— J.M.

Château latouR à poMeRolPe 200993 s | $100 | 2,200 css m | RA nice, old-school style, with roasted mesquite, tobacco leaf and

espresso avors up front, following through to bittersweet ga-

nache and mulled dark currant notes on the still-slightly taut, but

well-framed, nish. Should esh out a bit more with cellaring. Best


lynSolenCeS.-E 200993 s | $30 | 750 css m | RQuite lush, with deftly toasted blackberry, plum and g fruit car-

ried by enticing Christmas pudding and Valrhona chocolate notes.

Has hefty grip on the nish, which really pumps out the dark fruit.

Very solid, but will surely need some time to stretch out. Best


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Château pétRuSPe 200999 s | $4,000 | 2,915 css m | RThis offers a beautiful balance between its two sides: dark g,

roasted plum and toast avors versus racy raspberry, cassis and

perfumy black tea notes. Silky overall, but with terric latent grip

and a mouthwatering minerality that drives through the nish,

pulling out extra fruit paste and charred spice hints. Very, very im-

pressive range. Best from 2018 through 2035. From France.— J.M.

Château CheVal-BlanCS.-E 200998 s | $1,300 | 7,330 css m | RDense, brooding and richly coated, with a well of steeped black

currant, g paste and roasted plum fruit to draw on while the

layers of charcoal, Kenya AA coffee and loam resolve themselves.

This displays both breadth and depth, offering a great undercur-rent of acidity to match its heft. Should be among the most long-

lived wines of the vintage. Best from 2017 through 2035. From

France.— J.M.

Château le pinPe 200998 s | $3,500 | 400 css m | RDelivering pure, unadulterated essence of raspberry throughout,

this also features silky-textured tannins that build and build as the

wine courses along. Lilting black tea and toasty vanilla bean aro-

mas weave in and out. Primal and complex. Fantastic mouthfeel

and length. Best from 2015 through 2035. From France.— J.M.

Château tRotanoyPe 200998 s | $550 | 2,250 css m | RThis sports a dark, chewy side for now, with overt charcoal and

roasted apple wood notes, along with plenty of smoldering to-

bacco avors. The core is still a bit chunky as well, with roasted

g, blackberry paste and steeped black currant fruit. But the

underlying structure is rened, despite its density, and the nish

is very long and purely rendered. Best from 2018 through 2035.

From France.— J.M.

Château l’eVangilePe 200997 s | $350 | na css m | RThis takes a broader approach, with almost stolid tobacco and

charcoal structure guarding the core of black currant, roasted g

and blackberry conture avors. Long and very eshy, offeringample toast and searing singed iron notes, but terric integration.

Merlot in Cabernet clothing, with a long life ahead. Best from 2018

through 2035. From France.— J.M.

Château la fleuR-pétRuSPe 200997 s | $315 | 4,300 css m | RDensely packed and rather backward, displaying charcoal and

apple wood notes in front of the core of dense roasted g, macer-

ated plum and steeped cherry fruit. The long nish is well-studded

with toasted spice and tobacco hints. Terric underlying grip for

the cellar. Best from 2014 through 2030. From France.— J.M.

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