Inside Crochet - Complete Guide to Crochet Special - Volume 1 2013

Accessories FAshion childrens homewAre

978

1908

2561

64

ISB

N 9

78-1

-908

256-

16-4

9

.99

l bAbys First shoes l nursery gArlAnd l bedtime mice

Handmade with love

step-by-step illustrAted guide How to Crochet

Make this

in an evening!

WHIP UP THESE

WELLIE WARMERS

NO HASSLE TASSEL BAG

CRAFT THIS HANDY HOOK ROLL

CREATE THIS COLOURFUL CARDI

STITCH THIS SUMPTUOUS SCARF

From the mAKers oF

FestivAl FlAre

grAnny squAre detAil

clAssicFAshion

style toppers

vintAgechic

complete guide toThe

GREATPATTERNS

INSIDE!WITH 25 SIMPLE

MAKES PERFECT FOR GETTING

STARTED

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Arts & craftWhether youre new to handmade crafts or a seasoned veteran, youll

fi nd something to inspire, enthuse and inform within these craft magazines.

Arts & craftArts & craft

Inside Crochet is the UKs only monthly crochet magazine, providing inspiration and beautiful projects for the contemporary crafter.

Patterns to suit all abilities

Comprehensive beginners guide

Inspirational interviews and features

Tutorials, trends, news and reviews

Stylish patterns for women, men, children and the home

Written by knitters, for knitters from intrepid beginners to the more advanced, Yarnwise is sure to inspire and inform.

Packed with original designs

All the latest news and reviews

In-depth yarn-related features

Step-by-step tutorials

Interviews, techniques and much, much more

@Yarnwise

Yarnwise

The best of homes, gardens, crafts, arts and food every month all hand-wrapped in one beautiful package!

Crafts projects youll want to make in every issue

Interviews with top names in craft and design

Enjoy your garden from plot to plate

Looking good, naturally

In-depth features

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AdForFeeney.indd 1 23/11/2012 14:07

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C o m p l e t e G u i d e t o C r o C h e t 05

we

lC

om

eWelcomeWelcome to this fabulous collection of some of our most popular Inside Crochet patterns. We have selected a range of fashionable clothing, accessories and homeware products that will ensure you have the perfect crochet project to make for every occasion. Inside you will find cute toys, simple jewellery, quirky accessories and stylish garments. My personal favourites include the adorable Wee Mousie pattern by Lucy Collin, the simple

and easy to wear Bexhill Tee by Vicki Brown and the retro Dowding socks by Rohn Strong a trio that gives me something to make for each member of my household, as well as giving me a chance to have fun trying out a selection of different techniques.

For those of you who are relative newcomers to crochet, this book will provide everything you need to know to begin; there is a clear and concise How to Crochet guide with handy illustrations to follow, along with some tips and tricks of the trade to ensure that you can complete the projects with confidence. The comprehensive symbols and abbreviations page includes all you need to read the patterns and charts, and a handy yarn and hook guide provides an interesting read as well as invaluable advice and information. Youll be able to choose the perfect yarn and hook combination for your project to get exactly the result youre after.

This wonderful compilation of projects has been a joy to put together, from initial swatches and sketches to publication I hope that you enjoy making them just as much!

Claire Montgomerie, Editor

po Box 6337 Bournemouth Bh1 9eht. +44 (0)1202 586848

From the makers oF

Meet the teamEditor

Claire [email protected]

Project Editorelaine pearson

[email protected] Editor

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Sara Royle, Veruska Sabucco, Joanne Scrace, Sara Sinaguglia, Sirdar, Rohn Strong, Barbara

Summers, Tracey Todhunter, Nicki Trench, Pauline Turner, Marie Wallin, Helen Walsh

ModelsJudy Baxter, sarah louise miller, adam

montgomerie, Finley pirie, Jasmaine simmons, Jessica welch, olivia welch, Charlotte wright

Photography aidan Collins, andrea ellison

www.andreaellisonphotography.com, Britt spring www.brittspring.com

Hair and makeupNicki henbrey, Julia snowdon

Design iF-design & art direction

Ad Productionleila schmitzCover image

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Britt spring, sean miles, Vita apalaIllustrationsean miles

PublishingPublishertim harris

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(see page 80 for subscription details)Published by

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tailor made publishing ltd 2012/13. all rights reserved. No part of this magazine, or digital versions of the magazine, may be used, reproduced, copied or resold without written

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tailor made publishing ltd cannot accept any responsibility for errors or inaccuracies in such information. unsolicited artwork, manuscripts

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liability for their storage or return.

INSIDE

Complete Guide tothe

HTC_Book_P.04-05[FinnGilet&Eds]EPIFEPRDEPIFEPRDEP.indd 2 26/11/2012 10:16

Contents

08 Getting started A handy checklist to make sure you

have everything you need

10 How to crochet A clear and concise guide with

helpful illustrations to follow and all you need to understand patterns and charts

22 Understanding yarn A useful introduction to the types of

yarn available and what you need to know to make the most of them

143 Contacts Wheretogotofindeverything

featured in your Complete Guide to Crochet

144 On the Edge Finish off your handmade pieces

with this guide to beautiful crocheted edgings, with a helpful how-to included

144

08

22

10

co

nt

en

ts

Pumpkin MittsShirley

MacDonaldPage 26

Jesamine NecklacesVicki Brown

Page 29

Mini Granny Square Bag

Christine HarveyPage 30

GiGi SocksVita Apala

Page 32

Sandy BagSimone Francis

Page 34

Golden Girl Bow BandHelen Jordan

Page 36

Elizabeth Wellie CosiesSimone Francis

Page 38

Milly Molly Mandy ScarfHelda Panagary

Page 40

Mary EarringsHelen Walsh

Page 42

Echo HatBarbara Summers

Page 43

Dowding Socks

Rohn StrongPage 44

Nova HatVeruska Sabucco

Page 46

aCCESSoriESPattErNS

PAge 24

06 c o m p l e t e G u i d e t o c r o c h e t

Beata Basik www.rosehi

p.typepad.com

Ph

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: Kri

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Pere

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Vin

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Cro

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by S

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HTC_Book_P-1.06-07[Contents]EPIFEPIFEPRDEPEPIFEP.indd 1 26/11/2012 12:29

FOR HOMEpattERns


Co

nt

en

ts

Wallace Washcloths

Tracey TodhunterPage 112

Ripple stitch tea CosySian Brown

Page 114

starfish tableclothErika Knight

Page 116

Bouquet Garland

Claire MontgomeriePage 118

Beach Hut Door stop

Liz MouterPage 120

scatter Cushions


pencil pot Holder

Sara SinagugliaPage 125

Lavender Heart


patsy Hook Roll

Barbara LawlerPage 130

Moore pincushion

Claire MontgomeriePage 132

Cookie Coasters

Simone FrancisPage 134

starburst afghan

Megan GranholmPage 138

PaGE 110

FasHIOnpattERns

FOR CHILDREnpattERns

Diana shawlHelda Panagary

Page 50

Julia sweateramy Depew

Page 52

alarm Clock Cosy

Liz MouterPage 84

Wee MousieLucy Collin

Page 86

sweetheart sweater

Vicki BrownPage 56

Bertie BlanketJodie Inglis

Page 88

Baby setSirdar Design

TeamPage 91

Barnaby skirtChristine Harvey

Page 61

Lulu LeggingsPauline Turner

Page 64

Benday Cardigan

Joanne ScracePage 94

syd RabbitClaire

MontgomeriePage 97

Harry shawl neck sweater

Vicki BrownPage 70

Waffle Cardiganamy Depew

Page 74

Mary JanesVita apalaPage 100

EstellaMarie Wallin

Page 78

Chevron and Cables skirt

annastasia CruzPage 106

Bexhill teeVicki Brown

Page 66

Finn GiletSara RoylePage 102

Blossom shawl

Nicki TrenchPage 104

PaGE 48 PaGE 82

HTC_Book_P.06-07[Contents]EPIFEPIFEPRDEP.indd 2 26/11/2012 10:18

08 C o m p l e t e G u i d e t o C r o C h e t

HTC_Book_P.08-09[Getting Started].inddEPIFEPRDEP.indd 1 24/11/2012 12:37


Ge

tt

inG

sta

rt

ed

Crochet hooks

Yarn

Scissors

Tape measure to check tension and sizing

Tapestry needles for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends

The most important tool in crochet is of course your crochet hook. There are many different types, but metal hooks are probably the most common. These are fast to work with, as the yarn slips easily over the shaft, but they dont have any flexibility and can be hard to grip as their shafts are only as large as the hook size. Hooks with handles, especially padded, shaped or so-called ergonomic hooks, can be fabulous at relieving tension in aching hands and are much easier to grip.

Bamboo and wooden hooks can sometimes snag the yarn, making for slower work, but these often have pretty carved ends, which are popular.

Plastic hooks are probably the least slippery and are very light and bendy, which can make them extremely difficult to work with, especially when using them with strong, unstretchy yarns.

Hook sizes are given in millimetres in Europe, the size being the diameter of the hook shaft. In the USA, a different system is in use, where a combination of letters and numbers are employed. International magazines and books should give both mm and in US sizes. You will need all the hooks stated in the pattern if you crochet to the tension the designer has given.

For more information on yarn for crocheting, turn to pages 2223.

All you need to get started

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How to CrochetI have always believed that anyone can learn to crochet, so long as you follow one simple rule: dont try to run before you can chain! The chain is the most simple of stitches and is therefore ideal for practising the all-important hold, which helps create the perfect tension for forming all the following stitches. When I was a child and

my mother taught me to crochet, she followed her grandmothers lead and helped me to hook metre upon metre of chain before I was shown any further stitches. It was a fantastic

foundation for learning the more difficult techniques. Once your chains are looking even and feel comfortable to

create, then progressing on to the next stitches is much easier. If at any point you feel as if you have lost your hold, go back to those comforting lengths of chain until your confidence returns. My biggest tip is to remember that this wonderful craft is well known for being relaxing and fun, which is why crochet is completely addictive, so enjoy it!

Holding tHe Hook and yarnTo crochet smoothly and efficiently, you must hold the hook and yarn in a relaxed, comfortable and consistent fashion. This will also ensure that your tension is even and accurate. There are two main ways of holding the hook and two main ways to tension the yarn. You can choose whichever combination is natural for you, or a variation on these.

knife gripHold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a knife.

pencil gripHold the hook in your dominant hand as you would a pencil.

forefinger metHodWrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your opposite hand, under the next two fingers and over the forefinger. Hold the work steady with your middle finger and thumb, then raise your forefinger when working to create tension.

middle-finger metHodWrap the ball end of the yarn around the little finger of your opposite hand and over the other fingers. Hold the work steady with your forefinger and thumb, then raise your middle finger when crocheting to create tension.

THe basics

Holding THe Yarn

Holding THe HooK

teacH yourself: basic sTiTcHes; joining neW colours; fasTening off; increasing and decreasing; and fancY sTiTcHes.

TOP TIP

Working

left-handed

it doesnt matter if your stitches tend towards being slightly tight or even a little loose; you are aiming for an even tension throughout to achieve a professional finish.

To crochet left-handed, simply do the opposite to the right-hander. Hold a mirror up against any picture in this guide to see how to work.



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SlipknotA slipknot creates the first loop on the hook.

ChAinMost crochet projects begin with a length of chain. this is the perfect stitch to practise your hold and tension with.

1 Make a loop in the yarn around 1020cm from the end. insert hook through loop, catch the back strand of yarn and pull it through to the front.

2 pull the ends of the yarn to secure the knot around hook, but not too tightly or it will be hard to pull the first loop of chain through.

GettinG StArted

1 holding just the hook with point up in your dominant hand, and the yarn in the other, grip the slipknot with the yarn holding hand. Work a yarn round hook (yrh or yoh) by passing the hook in front of the yarn, under and around it.

2 roll the hook round in your fingers towards you to catch the yarn and pull through loop on hook. one chain made.

3 ensuring the stitches are even not too loose or tight repeat to make a length of chain.

TOP TIP

the action of working stitches

causes a constant rolling of

the hook in your fingers; hold

the hook pointing up when

performing the yrh, then roll

it round towards you to point

down when pulling through the

loops so that you dont catch

the hook in the stitches.

Beginner

books we

recommend...

CroChet Workshop by erika knight (Quadrille, 16.99)

one of the most stylish crochet books on the market, this has easy-

to-follow instructions and modern, desirable patterns that are perfect to practise your skills on.

Cute and easy CroCheted baby Clothes by niCki trenCh (CiCo books, 12.99)

Baby patterns are a perfect place to begin when making

garments due to their small scale. this pretty book has plenty of simple projects and very sweet step-by-step diagrams.

tWilleys book of instant CroChet (hg tWilley) 2.50

A classic pamphlet by a classic company, this was first

published in 1969 and contains all you need to know about learning to crochet with clear and concise diagrams.



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Slip Stitch (Sl St)A slip stitch is usually used to join one stitch to another or to join a stitch to another point. it is usually made by picking up two strands of a stitch but when used all over, you usually only pick up the back loop.

Double crochet (Dc)the smallest stitch, creating a dense fabric perfect for amigurumi.

the mAin StitcheS

1 insert hook into st or chain required. Yarn over hook, as when you make a chain. pull a loop through all stitches/loops/work on hook to finish slip stitch

1 insert hook into chain or stitch, front to back. Yarn over hook and draw through stitch to front, leaving you with two loops on the hook. Yarn round hook.

2 Draw through both loops to the stitch. Double crochet completed.

hAlf treble crochet (htr)Slightly taller than a double crochet stitch, with a softer drape to the resulting fabric.

1 Yarn over hook, insert hook into st from front to back and draw loop through stitch only. this gives you three loops on the hook. Yarn round hook.

2 Draw yarn through three remaining loops on hook together to complete half treble.

COUNTING A CHAIN

the right side of your chain is the one that looks like a little plait of v shapes. each v is a stitch and must be counted. When you are working the chain, you do not count the slipknot, but begin to count your chain when you pull through the first loop. to count the chain afterwards you count the slipknot as the first stitch, but not the loop on the hook, or working loop.



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Treble crocheT (Tr)The tallest of the basic stitches, great for using within more complex patterns.

1 Yarn round hook, insert hook into stitch from front to back and draw loop through stitch only. This gives you three loops on the hook. Yarn round hook.

3 Pull loop through remaining two loops to complete treble, repeat to end of row

2 Pull loop through two loops. Two loops on hook. Yarn round hook.

FasTen oFFPull up final loop of last stitch to make it bigger and cut the yarn, leaving enough of an end to weave in. Pull end through loop, and pull up tightly to secure.

The main sTiTches (conTinued) Top crochet websites

Vita apala shares crochet tutorials, free patterns and inspirational pictures from her home in italy what a fabulous mix! monpetitviolon. blogspot.co.uk

The uK hand Knitting association website is packed with helpful information on shops, workshops and craft teachers near you.www.ukhandknitting.com

emma lambs pretty blog provides an oasis of crochet calm in a busy world. Go here to relax and soak up the aspirational imagery.emmallamb.blogspot.co.uk

Purplelinda crafts crochet-centric store is a treasure trove of crochet-related haberdashery, patterns and threads. www.purplelindacrafts.co.uk

counTinG sTiTchescount the post or stem of the stitches from the side of your work, each post counts as one stitch.

double crochet Treble crochet


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Where to insert yoUr hook

Working into a chainWhen working into a chain, you need to miss out the appropriate number of chain stitches called for with your particular stitch (see turning chains), then insert the hook from front to back into the next chain, under the top loop of the chain. yarn over and draw a loop through to the front of the chain.

Working into Which loop?crochet stitches are always worked through both loops of the next stitch (this looks like a v on top of the stitch), unless the pattern tells you otherwise.

sometimes a pattern will ask you to work only through one loop of the stitch. to work through the back loop only (blo), insert your hook through the centre of the stitch, then under the back loop to the back, then complete the stitch. to work through the front loop only (flo), insert your hook under the front loop of the next stitch, then bring it out at the centre of the stitch, then complete.sometimes you are even asked to work in between the stitches. in this case, ignore the top loops of the stitch and insert your hook between the posts of adjoining stitches.

Working straight.When working straight, you need to turn your work at the end of a row and then work a turning chain (t-ch) to the height of your intended stitch so that you can continue working along the next row. this chain counts as the first stitch of the row and each type of stitch uses a different number of chain stitches for the turning chain.

With htr and taller stitches, you now miss out the first stitch of the row, then work into every following stitch. this is because the turning chain is tall enough to count as the first stitch itself, so is counted as the first stitch of the row. this also means that you must remember to work the last stitch of a row into the top of the previous rows turning chain.

Keeping straight edges

knowing which stitch to work into when working straight can be a problem for beginners, because the turning chain has such a role to play. if you dont know which stitch to work into after making your turning chain, simply unravel back to the last stitch from previous row and insert a thread or stitch marker into that stitch. Make your desired turning chain then miss out the stitch with the thread in (except with dc stitches), as your turning chain now counts as the first stitch of the row. once you have worked across all stitches in the row, you must remember to put a stitch into the top of the previous rows turning chain, as this also counts as a stitch.



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AdjustAble RingThis method is also referred to as the magic loop or ring, as it creates a round with no hole at the centre. Here it is demonstrated with double crochet.

Make a loop in your yarn, at least 15 cm from the tail end. Insert hook through the loop from front to back

Pull yarn though to front of loop and complete the stitch around the loop and the tail end of yarn held double.

Work all the following stitches into the ring in the same way, over the two strands of yarn in the loop. Once all stitches have been worked, pull the loose tail end of the yarn to close the ring and join the round with a slip stitch.

WOrkIng In THe rOundWhen working in the round, instead of working backwards and forwards along the work, turning at the end of each round, you simply work with the right side facing you at all times and you do not turn.When working in the round, you generally begin one of three ways:

WoRking ARound A RingThis method of working in the round creates a large hole at the centre of your work. Its size is dependent on the length of chain used.

Make a length of chain as required, then insert your hook into the first chain stitch you made. Yarn round hook.

Work a slip stitch to join, creating a ring, and then work your turning chain dependent on which stitch you will be working into the ring. Insert hook into the centre of the ring and work the first stitch into this ring

Work required number of stitches into the centre of the ring and join round with a slip stitch. do not turn, but continue the next row around the last.

WoRking into A shoRt chAinYou can create a smaller hole in the centre of your work by working into a chain as short as 2ch long.

For double crochets, as in this example, work 2ch. For htr you would work 3ch and for trebles, 4ch.

Insert hook into the first chain and work the first stitch into this chain.

now work the required amount of stitches into the same chain. The sheer amount of stitches worked into one place will cause them to fan out into a round. now join this round with a slip stitch and continue with the pattern.



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IncreasIngTo work an extra stitch, you simply need to work into the same stitch more than once.

Work one stitch as normal. Insert hook into same stitch youve just worked and complete another stitch. One stitch increased.

DecreasIngTo decrease a stitch, you need to work into two stitches without finishing them, then work them together.

For a double crochet (above), insert hook into next st, yarn over hook and draw a loop through the stitch, but do not finish the double crochet stitch as usual. Insert hook into following st, yarn over hook and draw a loop through the next st, so there are three loops on the hook in total. Yarn over hook and draw the loop through all loops on hook, drawing two stitches together. One stitch decreased.

For a treble crochet, work a treble into the next stitch until the last step of the stitch, two loops on hook. Do the same into the following stitch, three loops on hook. Draw through all three loops on hook to draw the two trebles together. One stitch decreased.

ShapIngJoInIng In a new colourTo join in a new colour, you can simply fasten off the old colour and then attach the new colour with a slip stitch into the top of the last stitch made. however, for a neater join, you can also work the colour change as follows:

Work the last stitch in the colour you are using first, up to the final step, so that the stitch is unfinished. pull the new colour through the loops on your hook, completing the stitch and joining the new colour at the same time.

Working a new colour over double crochet

Working a new colour over treble crochet

TensIon/gaugea tension swatch is used to ensure that you are working at the tension called for in the pattern. It is essential to check this, otherwise your finished garment is likely to be the wrong size! Crochet a small square of just over 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in in the main yarn and stitch used in the pattern, then count and calculate the average amount of stitches per cm.

Cast on a few more stitches and work more rows than the tension in the pattern suggests youll need for this size. Once you have completed the swatch, use a measuring tape or ruler and take some average measurements count how many stitches and rows to 10cm at different points over the swatch.

If you find you have more stitches per cm than indicated in the pattern, then your tension is too tight and you need to work more loosely. The best way to do this is to increase the size of hook you use by a quarter or half millimetre until the tension is as close as you can get it. If there are fewer stitches than required, then you are crocheting too loosely, and you need to decrease the size of hook used in the same way.



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ClustersClusters are groups of stitches worked into the same stitch, but rather than an increase, they still only equate to one stitch overall. Clusters can be confusing to work, so here are the details of some of the main cluster stitches.

BoBBleA bobble is a number of stitches (generally trebles), half finished and all worked into the same stitch. Once the desired number of half finished trebles have been completed, yarn round hook, then pull though all loops on hook to complete the bobble.

PoP CornsPop corns are a number of complete stitches worked into one stitch. 1 Once the sts are completed, remove your hook and insert back into the first stitch worked, then through the final loop.

2 Yarn round hook and pull through everything on hook.

PuffsA puff is a number of elongated half trebles worked into the same stitch and then finished together, as follows:

1 Yarn round hook, insert into next stitch, pull a loop through the stitch and then pull it up to the height of all other stitches in the row.

2 Yarn round hook, insert into same stitch, pull a loop through stitch and pull it up to the height of all other stitches in the row. Repeat this step the desired number of times.

3 Yarn round hook and pull through all loops on hook. Puff made.



ho

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adjustable ring

sl st

ch

bl only

fl only

dc

fdc

htr

tr

dtr

trtr

rtrf

rtrb

dc2tog

tr2tog

tr3tog

puff

3-tr cl

popcorn

linked tr

adjustable ring

sl st

ch

bl only

fl only

dc

fdc

htr

tr

dtr

trtr

rtrf

rtrb

dc2tog

tr2tog

tr3tog

puff

3-tr cl

popcorn

linked tr

adjustable ring

sl st

ch

bl only

fl only

dc

fdc

htr

tr

dtr

trtr

rtrf

rtrb

dc2tog

tr2tog

tr3tog

puff

3-tr cl

popcorn

linked tr

adjustable ring

sl st

ch

bl only

fl only

dc

fdc

htr

tr

dtr

trtr

rtrf

rtrb

dc2tog

tr2tog

tr3tog

puff

3-tr cl

popcorn

linked tr

adjustable ring

sl st

ch

bl only

fl only

dc

fdc

htr

tr

dtr

trtr

rtrf

rtrb

dc2tog

tr2tog

tr3tog

puff

3-tr cl

popcorn

linked tr

adjustable ring

sl st

ch

bl only

fl only

dc

fdc

htr

tr

dtr

trtr

rtrf

rtrb

dc2tog

tr2tog

tr3tog

puff

3-tr cl

popcorn

linked tr

breaking the language barrieruk and us terms have differing meanings which can create difficulty for the crocheter. heres a handy reference guide to overcome any misunderstanding.

UK Terms Us TermsChain ChainMiss skipslip stitch slip stitchDouble crochet single crochethalf treble crochet half double crochettreble crochet Double crochetDouble treble crochet treble crochetraised treble back/front back/front post dctriple treble crochet Double treble crochet

Charts keY

AbbreviATions noTe: ComPLeTe GUiDe To CroCheT Uses UK Terms ThroUGhoUT

alt . alternatebef . beforebeg . begin(s); beginningbet . betweenblo . back loop onlych(s) . chain(s)ch sp(s) . chain space(s)cl(s) . cluster(s)cm . centimeter(s)cont . continue(s); continuingdc . double crochetdc2tog . work two dc togetherdec(s) . decrease(s); decreasing; decreaseddtr . double treble crochetdtr2tog . work two dtr togetherea . eachech . extended chainedc . extended double crochet

etr . extended trebleest . establishedfdc . foundation double crochetflo . front loop onlyfoll . follows; followingftr . foundation treble crochetg . gram(s)gp(s) . group(s)hk . hookhtr . half treble crochethtr2tog . work two htr togetherinc(s) . increase(s); increasing; increasedin . inch(es)lp(s) . loop(s)m . stitch markermm . millimeter(s)nc . not closedpatt . patternpm . place markerprev . previous

rem . remain(s); remainingrep(s) . repeat(s)rev dc . reverse double crochetrnd(s) . round(s)rs . right sidertrf . raised treble frontrtrb . raised treble backsl . slipsl st . slip stitchsp(s) . space(es)st(s) . stitch(es)t-ch(s) . turning chain(s)tog . togethertr . treble crochettrtr . triple trebletr2tog . work two trebles togetherWs . wrong sideyd(s) . yard(s)yoh . yarn over hookyrh . yarn round hook

A note on

hook sizes

hook sizes and their designation vary from country to country. When following the recommendations in a pattern or on a ball band, make sure to check which size convention is being used.

CroCheT hooK sizesMetriC (MM) uk us0.60 140.75 121 111.25 71.50 61.75 52 14 2.25 b/12.5 12 2.75 C/23 10 3.25 D/3 3.5 9 e/4 3.75 F/54 8 g/64.5 7 75 6 h/85.5 5 i/96 4 J/106.5 3 k-/101/27 2 8 0 l/119 00 M /1310 000 n/1511.5 o12 P15 Q20 s


C otton is often considered to be the perfect yarn for crocheting, as it is strong and smooth in fact, people often think it is the only fibre suitable for

this craft. This is most definitely not the case today, as there are many beautiful yarns aimed at knitters that look just as fabulous when crocheted. Here is a quick guide to some of the fibres, which should help you make an informed decision when choosing yarn for your next project.

Acrylic Inexpensive, moth resistant and easy to wash, acrylic is a great choice for beginners and creates a smooth working action and neat stitch when crocheting. A mix of acrylic and natural fibres (such as wool) gives the best drape and handle.

Alpaca The fleece from a South American camelid, alpaca is lustrous, silky and very warm, making it excellent for hats and scarves. It is, however, very heavy, so be careful when substituting for longer-length garments as it can stretch under the weight.

Cashmere Considered the finest of the noble fabrics, cashmere is soft, warm, fluffy and expensive. If its out of your price range, then choosing a cashmere-wool blend will give you many of the benefits of cashmere fibre at a lower cost.

Cotton Suitable for open crochet items. Traditionally these would be doilies, but within fashion, cotton is fabulous for summer-weight mesh sweaters and intricate lace items. This plant fibre is readily available and inexpensive; it also has no stretch, which makes for very neat stitching but can be hard on the fingers.

Linen A plant-derived fibre, which can be very rough, this is a great alternative to cotton as it is also strong, with little stretch, making it perfect for accessories.

Mohair Spun from the fleece of the angora goat, mohair is soft and seductive, but can be itchy when worn next to the skin. Be careful when choosing it for your crochet

project, as it is very hard to pick out the individual stitches within a mohair fabric and it can be difficult to unravel if you make a mistake, so it may be best to use this fibre only when you are more experienced, or for simpler projects.

Silk Light, lustrous and shiny, yet very strong, silk is a great choice for summer-weight garments and eveningwear. It is also a fabulous alternative to the traditional crochet staple, cotton, as it is usually single plied, smooth and strong, making it easy to use and neat to work with.

Wool There are a vast variety of wool types but all of them are easy to use, warm and elastic and usually give great stitch definition. Merino is one of the finest and softest sheeps wool. When substituting wool for a traditional cotton fibre, remember that it has more stretch and so will be easier to work with, yet will create a very different type of fabric. Crocheted fabric has little stretch, which makes it perfect for items such as bags as they will be stronger and hold their shape.

Understanding yarns


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If you want to use a different yarn to the one stated in the pattern and do not want to adapt the pattern at all or do any calculations, you must look for a yarn in a similar weight (or thickness) to the one stated, otherwise the fabric will give a different tension and the garment may come out the wrong size.

Be aware, though, that there are different terms for each category of weight and these can differ between manufacturers. It is always best to refer to the ball band for the tension/gauge of the yarn when worked up than to pay too much attention to what the manufacturer has called the yarn.

Here is a general guide to the main categories:

Laceweight/2-ply A very fine yarn used mainly to crochet shawls and fine lace patterns. Often this very fine yarn is worked on a slightly larger hook to accentuate the lace pattern.

Superfine/crochet cotton/ 3-ply/fingering Very thin yarns used for light, detailed and fine work such as doilies and lace. This weight was a popular choice in the past for all kinds of homewares, although today a slightly thicker yarn is more commonly used for speed. Often fine-weight lace patterns can be recreated in much chunkier yarn to give a stunning effect.

Fine/baby/4-ply/sport Used in adult garments to create a fine-gauge, lightweight fabric, perfect for layering and the changing seasons.

Light/DK/light worsted A very standard, practical weight of yarn used commonly in crochet as a lightweight yet quick-to-work choice.

Medium/aran/worsted A weight of yarn that has become very common, it was traditionally used in Aran sweaters, hence the reference to

this weight, but has become a modern favourite as it is perfect for accessories such as scarves and hats and works up quickly.

Bulky/chunky A thick yarn, used to create chunky fabrics and sweaters, that works up extremely quickly on a larger hook yet is not so bulky that it becomes hard to wear. Not commonly used in the past, this weight has become more widespread as time becomes more of a luxury to modern crafters.

Super bulky/roving Very thick yarn, sometimes not spun at all, for crocheting on hooks that are larger than 10mm.

Yarn weights

Adapted from Claire Montgomeries Fashion Crochet (Carlton Books, 16.99)

HTC_Book_P.22-23[UnderstandingWool]EPRDEPIFEP.indd 2 24/11/2012 12:39

HTC_Book_P.24-25[AccessoriesIntro]IFEPRDEPIFEP.indd 1 24/11/2012 12:41

Pumpkin MittsShirley MacDonald

Page 26

Jesamine NecklacesVicki Brown

Page 29

Mini Granny Square Bag

Christine HarveyPage 30

GiGi SocksVita Apala

Page 32

Sandy BagSimone Francis

Page 34

Golden Girl Bow BandHelen Jordan

Page 36

Elizabeth Wellie CosiesSimone Francis

Page 38

Milly Molly Mandy ScarfHelda Panagary

Page 40

Mary EarringsHelen Walsh

Page 42

Echo HatBarbara Summers

Page 43

Dowding SocksRohn Strong

Page 44

Nova HatVeruska Sabucco

Page 46

Beginner eASY inTerMeDiATe ADVAnCeD eXPerT

aCCESSoriESYour iNStruCtioNS Start HErE

HTC_Book_P.24-25[AccessoriesIntro]IFEPRDEPIFEP.indd 2 24/11/2012 12:41

HTC_Book_P.26-28[PumpkinMittens]EPRDEP.indd 1 22/11/2012 09:14

SKILLS USEDl Herringbone Half Treble l Herringbone Treblel Raised Stitchesl Linked Stitchesl Forked Cluster

maTERIaLSS/M l Bouton dOr Baby Superwash, 100% wool, 50g/200m/218yds Shade:Brandy x 1 ballM/L l Coldharbour mill Organically Farmed merino Wool 4 Ply , 100% merino, 100g/178m/195ydsShade: Grass x 1 balll 4mm hookl Stitch markerl Darning needle

TENSIONSize in this pattern is dependent on tension. The same size hook was used for both pairs and the difference in size is entirely down to the thickness of the yarns. S/M: 15 rows and 22 sts to 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in in hbtr using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.M/L: 13 rows and 20 sts to 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in in hbtr using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

DESIGNER BIOGRaPHY:Shirley is a Scottish mum of four, wife and early years officer who crochets, knits, spins, weaves and dyes fibre. Find out more at www.woolly-knit-bits.blogspot.com

SPECIaL STITCH PaTTERNS:Herringbone Half Treble (hbhtr): Yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull through st and through next loop on hook (2 loops on hook), yrh and pull through all loops on the hook.Herringbone Treble (hbtr): Yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull through st and through next loop on hook (2 loops on hook), yrh and pull through first loop only (2 loops on hook), yrh and pull through all loops on hook.Linked Herringbone Treble (lhbtr): Insert hook in the stem of last worked hbtr, yrh and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next unworked st, yrh and pull through fabric and first loop on hook (2 loops on hook), yrh and pull through first loop only (2 loops

on hook), yrh and pull through all loops on hook.Cluster (cl): 3ch, [yrh, insert hook around stem of last tr worked, yrh and pull through , yrh and pull through first 2 loops on hook] 3 times (4 loops on hook), yrh and pull through all loops on hook.Forked cluster (fcl): 3ch, [yrh, insert hook around stem of last tr worked, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through first 2 loops on hook] 3 times (4 loops on hook), miss next 2 sts, yrh, insert hook in next st, yrh and pull through, yrh and pull through first 2 loops on hook (5 loops on hook), yrh and pull through all loops on hook.

PaTTERN NOTES: These mitts are worked flat from side to side then seamed using slip stitch before the cuff is worked in the round. The thumb is worked as you go, using short rows to shape the gusset. Both mitts are worked to the same pattern; how you fold your work to seam the thumb determines whether the glove fits right or left. a removable marker is used after seaming the thumb simply to make certain stitches easier to see.The 2ch worked at the beginning of a row counts as the first stitch unless otherwise stated. The ch 1 at the beginning of a row does not count as the first stitch.

RigHT MiTTBaCK SECTIONCh 27.

Row 1: 1hbtr (see Special Stitches) in 4th ch from hook, 1hbtr in next 18 ch, 1hbhtr (see Special Stitches) in each ch to end, turn 25 sts.Row 2: 1ch, 1hbhtr in each of next 5 sts, 1hbtr in each st to end, turn.Row 3: 2ch, 1hbtr in each of next 20 sts, 1hbhtr in each st to end, turn.Rows 47: 2ch, 1hbtr in each st to end, turn.Row 8: 2ch, 1tr in same st, fcl (see Special Stitches) 8 times, cl (see Special Stitches) around stem of last tr worked, turn 9 clusters.Row 9: 2ch (does not count as a stitch), hbtr in first tr, 2hbtr in next 3ch space, *1hbtr in top of next cl, 2 hbtr in next 3ch space; rep from * across, hbtr in last st 25 sts.Row 10: as row 2.Row 11: as row 3.

Pumpkin Mittsby Shirley MacDonalD

These cosy fingerless mitts are perfect for days when there is a bit of a nip in the air. The design is inspired by wheat fields in late summer.

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ThumbRow 12: 1ch, 1hbhtr in each of next 5 sts, 1hbtr in each of next 10 sts, turn.Row 13: 8ch, 1hbtr in 4th ch from hook, 1hbtr in each of next 4ch, 1hbtr in each of next 3 sts of Row 12, 1hbhtr in each of next 3 sts, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, sl st in next st, turn.Row 14: 1ch, 1dc in sl st, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, 1hbhtr in each of next 3 sts, 1hbtr in each of 9 sts to end, turn.Row 15: 2ch, 1hbtr in each of next 7 sts, 1hbhtr in each of next 2 sts, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, sl st in next st, turn.Row 16: 1ch, dc in sl st, 1dc in each of next 2 sts, 1hbhtr in each of next 2 sts, 1hbtr in each st to end, turn.Row 17: 2ch, 1hbtr in each of next 8 sts, 1hbhtr in each of next 3 sts, 1dc in next st, dc2tog working 1st part of st in side of first dc of row 16 and second part in next unworked st of row 15, dc in next st, sl st in next st, turn.Row 18: 1ch, dc in sl st, 1dc in each of next 3 sts, 1hbhtr in each of next 3 sts, 1hbtr in each st to end, turn.Row 19: Fold thumb in half lengthways with row just worked to the back, sl st the 6 thumb sts to corresponding chs of row 13, [1lhbtr (see Special Stitches), working 1 st part in last worked st of row 12 and next unworked st of row 11], Pm in st just worked, 1hbtr in each st to end, turn.Row 20: 2ch, 1hbtr in each of next 9 sts, 1lhbtr in marked st, remove marker and replace in st just worked, 1hbtr in each of next 9 sts, [1lhbtr, working first part in first dc of row 18 and second part in next unworked st of row 12, 1hbhtr in each st to end, turn (25 sts).

Palm secTionRow 21: as row 2.Row 22: as row 3.Row 23: as row 2.Rows 2427: as rows 47.Row 28: as row 3.Row 29: as row 2.

assemblyFold work in half, right sides together. holding foundation row closest to you, sl st row 29 to corresponding sts of foundation ch. Do not fasten off.

carefully turn work right side out. all seams should now be hidden on the inside.

cuFFRnd 1: 2ch, work 29tr evenly around bottom edge of mitt. Do not join round.Rnd 2: Rtrf around 2ch, rtrb, around next tr, [rtrf around next tr, rtrb around next tr] to end 30 sts.Rounds 36: [Rtrf around next tr, rtrb around next tr] to end.Rnd 7: [Rtrf around next tr, rtrb around next tr] until 2 sts remain, rhtrf around next st, rdcf around next st, sl st in next st.Fasten off.

Left mittWork as for Right mitt until the end of row 18.Row 19: Fold thumb in half lengthways with row just worked to the front, sl st the 6 thumb sts to corresponding chs of row 13, [1lhbtr, working 1st part in last worked st of row 12 and next unworked st of row 11], Pm in st just worked, 1hbtr in each st to end, turn.continue as for Right mitt until the end of row 29.Fold work in half; holding row just worked closest to you, sl st row 29 to corresponding sts of foundation ch. Do not fasten off.carefully turn work right-side out.

all seams should now be hidden on the inside.Work as for Right mitt to end of pattern.

fiNiSHiNGWeave in all ends.

Symbol Key

hbtr

hbhtr

cl

fcl

Diagram 1


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materialsl Cygnet seriously Chunky, 100% acrylic, 100g/48m/52ydsshades:mC: Candyfloss 809CC1: Burnt Orange 4888CC2: turquoise 552 CC3: Cream 288CC4: meadow Green 38771 ball of eachl 8mm hookl tapestry needle

teNsiONexact tension is not essential but each link should measure around 20cm/8in in circumference

measUremeNts115cm/45in approximate size in length for 17 chain necklace.

DesiGNer BiOGraPHYVicki is a 29-year-old, self-employed crafter who has been knitting and crocheting for over 10 years. You can find out more about her at www.lilleystitches.blogspot.com.

Starting LinkFoundation: With mC, ch 7, sl st to first

ch to join and form ring.rnd 1: 1ch, 15dc into ring (trapping end under sts while working), sl st to first ch to join. Fasten off.

MiddLe LinkSFoundation: With any different CC, ch 7, pass one end of chain through starting link, sl st to first ch to join and form link.rnd 1: Work as rnd 1 of starting link.Fasten off.

make as many links as you require to obtain the desired length of chain, remembering that you need to add one more in order to connect them (the samples shown range from 1417 links) passing each set of chains through the last link made before joining.

Joining LinkFoundation: With any different CC, ch 7, pass one end of chain through starting link and through the last middle link worked, sl st to first ch to join and form link.rnd 1: Work as rnd 1 of starting link.Fasten off.

FiniShingto weave in ends, thread onto a tapestry needle and pass under the dcs round the ring.

Jesamine necklacesby vicki brown

A simple chain necklace can become a great statement piece when worked in a fun, chunky yarn on a big scale. A quick project, perfect for beginners.

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HTC_Book_P.29[JesamineNecklaces]EPRDEP.indd 1 22/11/2012 09:14


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aG MATERIALS

l Texere Yarns, Good Fortune, 100% cotton, 250g/849m/929ydsShades:MC: CeriseAdditional Colours: Marigold, Violet, Grass, Orange, Brown, and Turquoisel 2mm hookl Long bag handles (measuring 32cm/12in)l Material to line the bag (55cm/21in x 35cm/13in)l Cerise pink sewing threadl Needle (or sewing machine)l Iron

YARN REVIEwChristine says: Texere Yarns Good Fortune is a soft but strong cotton yarn which is available in a unique range of bright, rainbow colours. I find the cones are amazing value and useful for many projects. It can be purchased online at www.texere-yarns.co.uk.

YARN ALTERNATIVESSAVE: Patons 100% Cotton 4-plySPEND: Debbie Bliss Eco Baby CottonSPOIL YOURSELF: Rowan 4-ply Cotton

TENSIONEach granny square has to measure approximately 5cm/2in square. Exact tension is not required for this pattern.

MEASUREMENTSApproximately 33cm/13in wide and 28cm/11in tall (including handles)

DESIGNER BIOGRAPhYChristine set up Rose Cottage Crafts from her home in rural west Yorkshire. She designs and makes unique, colourful crochet gifts. Find her on Facebook (rosecottagecrafts), Twitter (@RoseCottCrafts), and check out her website at www.rosecottagecrafts.net.

PATTERN NOTES The bag is made from 48 granny squares. Our bag includes 8 squares that start with each of the 6 colours (not including the cerise pink which is used for round 4). A random selection of the other colours are then used for rounds 2 and 3.

SquareSMake 48rnd 1: with first

random colour, ch 4, sl st to 1st chain to form a ring. Ch2 (counts as a treble) and 2tr into the ring, (1ch, 3tr into ring) 3 times, 1ch, join with sl st to top of starting ch. Fasten off.rnd 2: with second random colour, sl st to join in any ch-1 corner from rnd 1, 2ch, (2tr, 1ch, 3tr) into same ch-sp, ([3tr, 1ch, 3tr] into next ch-sp) 3 times, join with sl st to top of starting ch. Fasten off.rnd 3: with third random colour, sl st to join in any ch-1 corner from rnd 2, 2ch, 2tr into same ch-sp, *3tr into gap between next 2 3-tr groups, (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next ch-sp; rep from * around ending with 1ch, join with sl st to top of starting ch. Fasten off.rnd 4: with MC, sl st to join in any ch-1 corner from rnd 3, 2ch, 2tr into same ch-sp, *(3tr into gap between next 2 3-tr groups) twice, (3tr, 1ch, 3tr) in next ch-sp; rep from * around ending with 1ch, join with sl st to top of starting ch. Fasten off.

FINIShINGweave in all ends.

aSSemblyArrange your 48 squares into a grid pattern of 6 by 8 squares. working with 2 squares at a time, holding the right sides together and working through both layers, use MC to join with sl st in the corner ch-sp, sl st in blo (back loop only) across shared edge, sl st in next corner sp, *pick up next 2 squares and with RS together and working through both layers, sl st in corner sp, sl st in blo across shared edge, sl st in next corner sp; rep from * until 2 rows of 8 squares are seamed. Fasten off. Repeat the join along next edge of 8 seamed squares, four more times. Fold column of 6 squares RS together and sl st across unseamed edges in a similar manner. Repeat for other unseamed edges.

Lightly press (using a cool iron) on the reverse of the seamed rectangle, fold in half (RS together) and join (using the

Mini Granny Square Bagby Christine harvey

Christine received a vintage crochet bag from her mother, made from small granny squares in autumnal colours. She wanted to make a modern summer version, perfect for taking on holiday!

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HTC_Book_P.30-31[MiniGrannySquares]IFEPRDEP.indd 1 22/11/2012 09:15


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same technique) along each short side for 3 squares only, leaving top square not seamed.

Picot edgingWith Mc and RS facing, join with sl st in either short-edge seam, 1ch, dc in first corner st, *1ch, 1dc in next st, 3ch, sl st to first ch, 1dc in next st; rep from * around to start, join with sl st in first ch.

FOLD

SEW

SEW

SEW

SEW

FOLD

FOLD

3542cm

328cm

IC31_SCHEM_Granny

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FOLD

3542cm

328cm

IC31_SCHEM_Granny

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3542cm

328cm

IC31_SCHEM_Granny

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LiningRefer to diagram above. cut a rectangle of fabric to measure 35cm/13in wide by 42cm/16in and iron a 1.5cm/in hem on all four sides. cut two pieces of material measuring 32cm/12in wide by 8cm/3in and hem the short edges. then with WS of fabric facing, fold in half along the length and sew along the short edge of the lining fabric

(with the right side of fabric showing). these extra flaps will be used to attach the handles to the inside of the lining. Fold the entire piece in half RS together. Sew along the hem of the two short sides to height of 15cm/6in.

Slip the fabric lining into the crochet bag and sew through the lining into the crochet all

around the opening of the bag. Place handles on the inside of the lining fabric, wrap the extra fabric flap down around them and handstitch neatly along underside of the handles.

TOP TIPYou could weave all

the loose ends in, but ours were just knotted firmly and trimmed to 2cm/1in

lengths, as the bag is lined inside so they are

not visible.

HTC_Book_P.30-31[MiniGrannySquares]IFEPRDEP.indd 2 22/11/2012 09:15

HTC_Book_P.32-33[GiGiSocks]EPRDEP.indd 1 22/11/2012 09:16


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SKILLS USEDPopcorn stitch

MATERIALSl ICE Mallorca, 60% viscose/40% acrylic, 100g/400m/437ydsShade: Rose Pink x 2 balls l 3.5mm hookl Elastic thread (optional)

YARN ALTERNATIVESTry a heavy weight sock yarn or a sportweight yarn such as Easyknits Deeply Wicked Plump.

TENSIONWork 20dc and 10 rows to 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using a 3.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

MEASUREMENTSMade to fit.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHYVita, although originally from Lithuania, lives in Italy where she raises her young family and runs her online shop www.monpetitviolon.etsy.com.

SPECIAL STITCH PATTERNSPopcorn (PC): Work group of 5tr in next st, drop lp from hk, insert hk from front to back in first tr of 5-tr group, hk dropped lp and draw through st, ch1.

PATTERN NOTESWhen joining at end of rnds,

GiGi Socksby Vita apala

These beautifully intricate knee high socks are made up using popcorn stitch, giving an eye-catching and elegant look to the finished sock.

work sl st into 3rd ch of beg ch-3.First ch-3 does not count as tr.

FOOTRnd 1: Ch 3, join with sl st in first ch.

Rnd 2: Ch 3, 14tr into the ring, join 14tr.Rnd 3: Ch 3, 2tr in each tr, join 28tr.Rnd 4: Ch 3, *2tr in next tr, 1tr in next tr; rep from * around, join 42tr.Rnd 5: Ch 3, 1tr in each tr, join.Rep rnd 5 until the sock covers foot almost to the ankle (for UK size 5 repeat 11 times)

HEELNow working in rows.Row 1: Ch 1, 1dc in each of next 17 tr, turn 17 dc.Row 2: Ch 1, 1dc in each of next 17dc, 1 in sl st from join, dc in each of next 17 tr, turn 35 dc. Row 3: Ch 1, 1dc in each st, turn.Rep row 3 as many times as needed to get the full length of the foot (For UK size 5 repeat 11 times). Fasten off.

TURN HEELMiss 13 sts, sl st in 14th st.Row 1: Ch 1, dc in the same st as sl st, 1dc in each of next 8 sts, turn leaving rem sts unworked 9 dc.Row 2: Ch 1, 1dc in each st, turn.Rows 313: Rep row 2.Do not fasten off. With RS together (sock inside out), working through both layers, sl st to join edge of row 13 and first missed st of unused 13 sts; sl st side of row 12 with 2nd st of unused 13 sts; *sl st in side of next row and next unused st; rep from * to join. Fasten off.Join with sl st across other side of turned heel and unused 13 sts. Fasten off.

CUFFTurn sock right side out.Sl st in centre st of row 13 of turned heel, ch 1, dc in same st. Work 43dc evenly around sock, sl st to first ch to join. (If your lower leg is wider than average you will probably want to work more dc here. Just keep in mind that for the main pattern you need 6 sts + 1 st, it means you should work

42 + 1dc, or 48 + 1dc, or 54 + 1dc. If you work more dc here you will have to rep the main pattern more times, not 6 times as mentioned below, but 7 or 8. But take care that you do not make it too wide). Rnd 1: Ch 3, *miss next 2dc, 5tr in next dc, miss next 2dc, PC (see Special Stitches) in next dc*, rep from * 6 times more, join.Rnd 2: Ch 3, *miss next 2tr, 5tr in next tr, miss next 2tr, tr in top of PC* rep from * 6 times more, join.Rnd 3: Ch 3, *miss next 2tr, 5tr in next tr, miss next 2tr, PC in next tr*, rep from * 6 times more, join.Rep rnds 2 and 3 until the sock is knee high.

FINISHING When the sock is long enough, cut a piece of elastic thread (you can check how long the elastic should be by measuring it around the highest point of your lower leg. It shouldnt be too loose or too tight. Make sure you cut it with 2.5cm/1in allowance as you have to make a knot). Make double knot. Now work last round of the sock working: ch 1, 1dc in each tr catching the elastic thread in the middle under each dc made, join last round. Fasten off. Weave in all ends.

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HTC_Book_P.32-33[GiGiSocks]EPRDEP.indd 2 22/11/2012 09:16

HTC_Book_P.34-35[SandyBag]EPRDEP.indd 1 22/11/2012 09:16


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materialsl Bessie may Nettle, 70% wool/30% nettle, 50g/80m/87ydsshades:mC: Bark 6310 x 4 ballsCC1: Hettie 6280 x 2 ballsCC2: Nettie 6220 x 2 ballsl 6mm hookl two faux tortoise shell rings or bag rings (4cm/1in diam)

YarN alterNatiVesUse a chunky weight yarn if you would rather work with only one strand of yarn.

teNsiONUsing two strands of yarn together, work 11 sts and seven rows in htr to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in with 6mm hook or size required to obtain tension.

measUremeNts100cm/39in drop from shoulder to fringe when worn.strap 115cm/45in.Bag 44cm/17in from top to bottom of fringe.

DesiGNer BiOGraPHYsimone is a mum of two boys who loves crocheting every day and enjoys the process of designing and pattern writing. Find out more at simonefrancis.etsy.com. PatterN NOtesthis pattern is worked using two strands of yarn held together.

BagWith mC ch 30.Row 1: Htr into 3rd ch

from hook, htr to end, turn 28 sts.Row 2: 2ch, htr to end, turn. Rows 311: rep row 2.Rows 12 & 13: Join in CC2 and rep row 2.Rows 14 &15: Join in mC and rep row 2.Rows 1621: Join in CC1 and rep row 2.Rows 22 & 23: Join in CC2 and rep row 2.Rows 2434: Join in mC and rep row 2. Do not fasten off.

FlapRows 3538: 1ch, dc to end, turn.Rows 3943: 2ch, htr to end, turn.Rows 44 & 45: Join in CC2 and rep row 2.

Row 46: Join in mC and rep row 2.Rows 47 & 48: Join in CC1 and rep row 2.Fasten off. sew up the sides of bag using mattress stitch with rs facing.

StRapWith mC ch 100, dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc to end, turn 99dc.Row 1: 2ch, htr to end, turn.Row 2: 1ch, dc to end.attach both ends of the strap to the bag rings, wrapping the yarn around the ring and dc into the end stitches. Fasten off.

attachment StRapmake two.With mC ch 5, dc into 2nd ch from hook, dc to end, turn 4dc.Row 1: 2ch, htr to end, attach to bag ring following the same method as above.sew both small attachment straps onto outside of bag, placing them across the side seam.

loweR FRingeUsing CC1 cut 64 lengths of yarn, each 46cm/18in long and divide into four sets of 16. Fold one set in half over your hook; insert hook from back to front, wrap ends around hk, pull through and tighten. Work in this manner evenly along bottom row.

UppeR FRingein CC1 cut 60 lengths of yarn 25cm/10in long, divide into four sets of 15. Work fringe along the bottom edge of flap as above.

FiniShingWeave in all ends.

Sandy bagby Simone FranciS

Inspired by bohemian 60s fashions and catwalk trends, this bag would look great out shopping or at a festival.

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HTC_Book_P.34-35[SandyBag]EPRDEP.indd 2 22/11/2012 09:16

Materialsl King Cole Bamboo Cotton DK, 50% bamboo viscose/50% cotton, 100g/230m/252ydsshade: Yellow 523 x 1 ball(1 ball will make several belts, bows and other accessories)l 4mm hookl 15mm broomstick (knitting needle)l 1 button, 12mm/in diameterl sewing needle and threadl tapestry needle

teNsiONWork 20 ftr to measure 10cm/4in using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

FiNisHeD MeasUreMeNts165 x 12.5cm/65 x 5in (with zero ease)

DesigNer BiOgrapHYHelen is a crochet designer, author, teacher and technical editor. she also runs a specialist crochet supplies business, www.threadoflife.co.uk.

speCial stitCH patterNsBroomstick crochet: Make a number of foundation trebles. extend the loop on the hook and place it on the broomstick. *insert hook in next st on centre row, yarn over hook, draw new strand though, extend it and place in snugly on the broomstick. repeat from * to end of row.insert hook through 3 loops, ease hook to top of loops, yarn over hook, draw new strand through, make one chain. For this design only, work 4 double crochet in each group of 3 loops.

Foundation treble (ftr): Make a slip knot and place on the hook, work 4 chains (counts as first ftr stitch), yarn over hook, insert hook in 4th ch from hook, yarn over hook, draw new strand through stitch, yarn over hook, draw new strand through 1 loop (base ch made), [yarn over hook and draw new strand through 2 loops] twice (1 ftr made); *yarn over hook and insert hook in base-ch of last ftr made (be sure to insert hook under 2 loops of the base-ch; the loop at the front or face of the base-ch and the loop on the bottom side of the

base-ch), yarn over hook and draw new strand through stitch, yarn over hook and draw new strand through 1 loop on hook (base-ch made), [yarn over and draw new strand through two loops] twice (ftr made); repeat from * for desired number of ftr. This stitch is sometimes called extended treble foundation.

patterN NOtespattern is worked on each side of centre row. Broomstick crochet usually requires the same number of double crochet as loops worked into. to achieve the fuller edge, an extra stitch is worked into each group of loops (see Special Stitch Patterns).

BeltMeasure waist size. Calculate the number

of stitches required, rounding to a multiple of 3 stitches.

CeNtre rOW (rs)4ch (counts as a st), work calculated number ftr (see Special Stitch Patterns) (must be a multiple of 3 sts).

First siDeWith rs facing, work one row of broomstick crochet (see Special Stitch Patterns) along the top of the centre row. Fasten off.

seCOND siDeWith Ws facing, work as for first side along opposite side of centre row to last group of loops, 6dc in last group, sl st in end st of centre row, 2ch, sl st in top of end st of centre row to form loop for button. Fasten off.

BowFrONt pieCeMake 24ftr and work as for belt 8 groups of loops.

BaCK pieCeMake 36ftr and work as for belt 12 groups of loops.

asseMBlYFold each end of bow to meet in the middle and stitch together (Ws). line up middles of bow pieces with Ws of Front piece together with rs of Back piece.

Golden Girl Bow Bandby Helen Jordan

Cinch in your waist for a svelte silhouette with this neat belt made in broomstick crochet. Make a shorter piece and youve got a hairband, bracelet or choker. A perfect simple project for your first attempt at broomstick crochet.

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Stitch pieces together on centre row only.Work a length of 18ftr to wrap over the centre of bow. Stitch in place with join at the back of the Back Piece.

FINISHINGWeave in all ends.

Add to the stash

You can buy the yarn for this project at www.purplelinda

crafts.co.uk

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Stitch button near one end of centre row of belt. Fasten belt between last 2 stitches at opposite end.Stitch bow to belt, offset enough from the button to allow fastening of belt and covering of button with bow.

HTC_Book_P.36-37[GoldenGirl]EPRDIFRDEP.indd 2 22/11/2012 09:17

HTC_Book_P.38-39[WellieCosies]EPRDEP.indd 1 22/11/2012 09:18


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Elizabeth Wellie Cosiesby Simone FranciS

Inspired by beautiful tartan fabrics and new wellies, these cosies are ideal for cold weather walks or the school run.

MATERIALSl Wendy Merino DK, 100% merino wool, 50g/116m/127yds Shades:MC: Apple green 2373 x 2 balls CC1: Dutch blue 2358 x 1 ballCC2: Persian red 2352 x 1 ballCC3: Crepe 2377 x 1 balll 3mm and 4mm hookl Sewing-up needle

TENSIONWork 18 sts and 22 rows in dc

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Simone is a mum of two boys who loves crocheting every day and enjoys the process of designing and pattern writing. Find out more at www.etsy.com/shop/simonefrancis.

SPECIAL STITCHESTwisted treble (twtr): Miss first st, treble into the next st, reach across the front of the stitch just worked, treble into the missed st.Woven dc st: Using two shades of yarn, dc with main colour, lay the yarn along the work, insert the hook into the next dc and with the contrast yarn pull loop through the st, yrh (making sure the st wraps around the main colour) complete the dc. Continue changing colour for each st, wrapping the dc over the alternating yarn lying across the work.Surface slip stitch (sss): Insert hook into the RS of work and pull a loop of yarn from the back, insert hook into next st and pull through a loop, continue until chain st is of desired length.

PATTERN NOTES The cosies are made working from the bottom of the legwarmer up to the cuff, the yellow weaves are slip stitched on before the seams are sewn up.Each st is completed before changing colour, the yarn is left at the back of the work for the next row and only carried along the work in the 10dc woven section. On every second row the contrast yarn is moved up and over to the back of the work before starting the st.

LEGWARMERWith 3mm hook and MC, 63ch, tr into

the 3rd st from hook, tr to end, turn 60tr.Row 1: 3ch, *miss first st, tr into the next st, trtw (see Special Stitches); rep from * across, tr into last st, turn 3ch, 29 pairs of twisted tr, 1tr.Rep row 1 for 9 more rows.Change to CC2 and 4mm hook: 3ch, twisted tr st to end, tr into last st, turn.

st to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 4mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.Work 19 sts and 11 rows in twisted treble (see Special Stitches) to measure 10 x 10cm/4 x 4in using 3mm hook or size required to obtain tension.

MEASUREMENTSCuff 12.5cm/4inLegwarmer 10cm/4in

CUFFIncrease Row: 1ch, 2dc, [2dc into next st, 10dc] 5 times, 2dc into the next st, dc into the last 2 sts 66dc.

TARTAN PATTERNChange to CC1 as follows:Row 1: 1ch, 5dc, join in CC2 and work 10 woven dc st (see Special Stitches) as foll, [1dc in CC2, 1dc in CC1] 5 times place the yarn just worked along the work and crochet around it in the opposite colour each time, (complete each st before changing colour throughout). *with CC1 12dc (carrying CC2 under each dc made), 10 woven dc; rep from * once more, with CC1, 7dc, turn 66 sts.Row 2: 1ch, with CC1, 7dc, *move CC2 to back of work, [1dc in CC2, 1dc in CC1] 5 times, with CC1, 12dc; rep from * once more, 10 woven dc, with CC1, 5dc, turn.These two rows form Tartan Pattern, always taking CC2 up and over to back of work, Rep rows 1 and 2 twice more, then rep row 1.Break off CC1 and work as follows:

CUFF CONTINUESRows 812: With CC2, 1ch, dc to end, turn. Place st marker to mark row 12.Rejoin CC1.Rows 1318: Rep rows 1 and 2 of Tartan Pattern.Row 19: Rep row 1 of Tartan Pattern.Next row: In CC2, 3ch, twtr to end, tr into last st, fasten off.

SURFACE EMBROIDERYWith CC3 and 4mm hook, sss (see Special Stitches) across row 12 on RS.Working from edge of Cuff to Twisted Tr rows, work 2 rows of sss across the woven dc sections as per photo. Fasten off.

FINISHINGWeave in ends and sew up seams.

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HTC_Book_P.38-39[WellieCosies]EPRDEP.indd 2 22/11/2012 09:18

HTC_Book_P.40-41[MillyMollyScarf]EPRDEP.indd 1 22/11/2012 09:19


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MEASUREMENTS 25 x 120cm/9 x 47in

MATERIALSl The Natural Dye Studio, Dazzle HT, 100% wool, 100g/400m/437ydsShade A: Combe Martin x 1 skein(Please note: these skeins are hand-dyed, so colours may vary between batches; also, the range of dye colours often changes, so this exact shade might not be available)l The Knitting Goddess, mini skeins, semi-solid colours, 75% superwash merino/ 25% nylon, 10g/40m/44ydsShade B: Lilac, Wheat, Copper, Lime, Bridgewater Blue and Coral x 1 skein of eachl 4mm hook l Tapestry needle

TENSIONExact tension is not essential for this pattern.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHYHelda loves to crochet and can be found at her blog, www.heldasland.blogspot.co.uk.

PATTERN NOTESThe pattern is worked row by row. At the end of every row and the start of every row, leave a 10cm/4in tail; when the scarf is complete these tails will form fringing. Go back to the

beginning of each row to start the next row.You can substitute the mini skeins of different shades for one colour. To use one colour, total amount of shade B needed is 60g.

SCARFUsing A, leave a 10cm/4in tail, make

300ch, turn. Row 1: Miss 2ch, dc in next ch, *1ch, miss 1ch, dc in next ch, 1ch; rep from * to end, sl st in last st, leaving a 10cm/4in tail, cut yarn and pull through last st.Row 2: Join A in first st of row, leaving a 10cm/4in tail, dc in ch sp,* 1ch, miss 1dc, dc in ch sp, rep from * to end, sl st in last st, finish as prev row.Using B in any order you like, rep row 2.Alternating Shades A and B, rep row 2 until you have run out of B.Work 2 (or more, as desired) rows in main colour.

FINISHINGTake one tail at top of scarf and double knot it to the tail below. Knot on every other row to form fringing.

Milly Molly Mandy scarf by Helda Panagary

This scarf was born from the love of a knitted linen stitch and recreates the pretty, textured pattern in crochet.

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Mary Earringsby Helen WalsH

A beautiful pair of earrings made by transforming an ordinary and everyday product a plastic bag into something extraordinary and unusual using simple crochet skills and an iron.

ADVANCED SKILLS USEDCutting plarn (please see diagrams above)Melting plarn

YARN USEDl One plastic bag, cut into a continuous strip, any colour l 4mm hookl Pair of earring wiresl 2 jump ringsl Iron (ordinary domestic iron)l Baking parchment

TENSIONBecause of the yarn used and the item being made, exact tension is unimportant.

MEASUREMENTS Each flower measures approximately 5cm/2in (not including findings)

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHY Helen is a textile artist based in Cumbria with a passion for getting people involved in the arts and melting stuff! Find out more at www.delicatestitches.co.uk.

FlowersMake 2.Chain 4, sl st in first ch

to form ring.rnd 1: 1ch, 12dc in ring, join with sl st to top of first dc.rnd 2: (1ch, 1htr, 3dtr, 1htr, 1dc) in first dc of previous rnd, sl st in next dc, [(1dc, 1htr, 3dtr, 1htr, 1dc) in next dc, sl st in next dc] 5 times. Break plarn and fasten off.

TwO-COLOUR FLOwERFollow instructions above but at end of rnd 1 break off MC and attach CC. work Rnd 2 with CC.

Melt earringsPlace motifs between two sheets of baking parchment. Set the iron to cotton with no steam. Press the motifs for a few seconds; they will shrink as they heat up. Allow to cool, then carefully peel off the parchment. Repeat until you are happy with the results. Different bags melt in different ways. when the plastic is hot it is very soft and malleable, so it is important to allow it to cool before moving the motifs. when cool, they are strong and rigid.

asseMblyAttach a jump ring through one of the gaps in one of the petals. Attach an earring wire to the jump ring also. Repeat for second earring.

Floral Earrings Diagram

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HTC_Book_P.42-43[MaryEarrings&EchoHat]EPRDEP.indd 1 22/11/2012 09:20


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MATERIALSl Jarol British Wool Aran, 100% wool, 100g/170m/185ydsShade: Light brown 03 x 1 ball l 5mm hookl Tapestry needle

YARN ALTERNATIVESAny Aran or worsted weight wool or wool-mix yarn will create a warm and cosy hat.

TENSIONWork 15 sts and 13 rows in pattern st to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in using 5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

MEASUREMENTSCircumference 52cm/20inHeight 19cm/7in To fit head 5257cm/2022in

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHYBarbara has dabbled with crochet designs since the early 1970s, but only recently entered the world of designing for publication. Find out more about her at www.crocknit.com.

PATTERN NOTESThe hat design uses multiples of 12 stitches and is crocheted in the round, from the top down.

CROWN Rnd 1: Make an adjustable ring, 1ch,

6dc into loop, sl st in tch 6 sts.Rnd 2: 1ch, 2dc in each st to end, sl st in tch 12 sts.Rnd 3: 3ch (counts as first tr), 1tr in same st, 2tr in ea st to end, miss last st, sl st in tch 24tr.Rnd 4: Rep rnd 3 48tr.Rnd 5: 3ch (counts as first tr), 1tr in same st, *3tr, 2tr in next st, rep from * to end, miss last st, sl st in tch 60tr.Rnd 6: 3ch (counts as first tr), 1tr in same st, *4tr, 2tr in next st, rep from * to end, miss last st, sl st in tch 72tr. BODY Rnd 7: 2ch (counts as last rtrb), *4rtrf, 2rtrb, 2rtrf, 4rtrb, rep from * to end, ending with 3rtrb, sl st in tch.Rnd 8 & 9: Rep rnd 7.Rnd 10: 2ch (counts as last rtrb), *3rtrf, 3rtrb, rep from * to end, ending with 2rtrb, sl st in tch.Rnd 11 & 12: Rep rnd 10.

Rnd 13: 2ch (counts as last rtrb), *2rtrf, 4rtrb, 4rtrf, 2rtrb, rep from * to end, ending with 1rtrb, sl st in tch.Rnd 14 & 15: Rep rnd 13.Rnd 16: 2ch (counts as last rtrb), *rtrf, 5rtrb, 5rtrf, rtrb, rep from * to end, ending with 4rtrf, sl st in tch.Rnd 17 & 18: Rep rnd 16.

BRIM Rnd 19: 2ch (counts as last rtrf), *6rtrb, 6rtrf, rep from * to end, ending with 5rtrf, sl st in tch.Rnd 20: Rep rnd 19.Rnd 21: 2ch (counts as last rtrb), * 6rtrf, 6rtrb, rep from * to end, ending with 5rtrb, sl st in of tch. Rnd 22: Rep rnd 21.Rnd 23: 1ch, 1dc in next and ea st to end, sl st in tch.Rnd 24: 1ch, 1dc in ea st one row below, sl st in tch.

FINISHINGFasten off and sew in ends.

echo Hatby BarBara SummerS

The chunky texture stitch in this hat has echoes of art deco design, adding extra warmth and elasticity to the fabric. Its perfect for walks in the woods on frosty days or along a bracing seafront.

HTC_Book_P.42-43[MaryEarrings&EchoHat]EPRDEP.indd 2 22/11/2012 09:20


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s MATERIALSl Trekking 6-ply Tweed, 75% wool/25% nylon, 150g/390m/427ydsShades:MC: Sand 1851CC: Red 1856For yarn amounts, please see the table opposite.l 3.5mm hookl Split ring stitch markersl Tapestry needle

TENSION Work 20 sts and 16 rows in exdc to measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in using 3.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHYRohn Strong is an internationally recognised crochet and knitwear designer, specialising in the history of the First and Second World Wars. He is the author of The Heritage Collection WWI and WWII. Visit his blog at www.rohnstrongdesigns.wordpress.com

SPECIAL STITCH PATTERNS Extended Double Crochet (exdc): Insert hook into st indicated, yrh and pull up a loop, yrh and draw through one loop on hook, yrh and draw through both loops on hook.Raised Front Treble Crochet (rtrf): Yrh, insert hook from front to back around post of st indicated, yrh and pull up a look (3 loops on hook), [yrh, draw through 2 loops on hook] twice.

CuFFRnd 1: (RS) With 3.5mm hook and MC, leaving

20cm/8in end for finishing, 46 (50, 56, 66) ftr, join with sl st.Rnd 2: 1ch, dc around, join with sl st to first ch.Rnd 3: 2ch, *rtrf (see Special Stitch Patterns) around bar of tr from prev RS row, tr in next tr; rep from * around 23 (25, 28, 33) rtrf, 23 (25, 28, 33) tr.Rep rnds 2 & 3 six times, changing colour after every 3rd rnd. LEgRnd 1: 1ch, exdc (see Special Stitch Patterns) into first st, (mark this st as beg of rnd), work exdc in each st around.With MC, rep rnd 1 until leg measures 20cm/8in from beg

of cuff or to desired length.

HEELBegin working in rows.Row 1: (RS) With CC, dc in next 23 (25, 28, 33) sts, turn, leaving rem sts unworked.Row 2: 1ch, dc in each st across.Row 3: 3ch, [rtrf, tr] across.Rep rows 2 and 3 until heel measures 7cm/2in, ending with a WS row.

TuRN HEELRow 1: (RS) 1ch, turn; dc in first dc, dc2tog twice, dc across to last 5 sts, dc2tog twice, dc in last dc. Row 2: 1ch, turn; dc in each dc across. Row 3: Rep row 1.Rows 4 & 5: Rep row 2.

GuSSETBegin working in rounds.Rnd 1: With RS facing and working in end of rows on Heel Turning and Flap, with MC, work 13dc evenly spaced across placing marker in last dc made (Gusset). Beg in first unworked st of Leg, exdc across, place marker. Working in end of rows on Heel Flap and turning, work 13tr evenly spaced across (Gusset), place marker in last st as beg of rnd. (Use two markers of the same colour to mark each side of the gusset and a contrasting colour marker to mark beg of rnd.)Rnd 2 (decrease rnd): Exdc in each st across to one st before marked st, dc2tog (move marker to new st), exdc around to one st before marked st, dc2tog, exdc in each st to last marker. Rnds 39: Repeat rnd 2, 7 times.Remove gusset markers.

FooTRnd 1: Exdc in each exdc around.Rep rnd 1 until foot measures 23 (25.5, 28.5, 31)cm/9 (10, 11, 12)in from back of Heel or to desired length; remove marker.

ToEFold piece in half centering heel at the back. Rnd 1 should begin at the side of foot. Add or remove sts to ensure you begin at side, mark stitch. Rnd 1: With CC, dc in each exdc around.Rnd 2: *Dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in next 18 (20, 23, 28) sts, dc2tog; rep from * once more.

Dowding socksby Rohn StRong

Hugh Dowding, an RAF commander, is often credited with Great Britains victory in the Battle of Britain. Just like Dowding, these socks are strong and resilient, ready to stand up to any and all things you can put them through.

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Rnd 3: Dc in each dc around. Rnd 4: *Dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in next 16 (18, 21, 26) sts, dc2tog; rep from * once more.Rnd 5: Dc in each dc around.Rnd 6: *Dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in next 14 (16, 19, 24) sts, dc2tog; rep from * once more.Rnd 7: Dc in each dc around.Rnd 8: *Dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in next 12 (14, 17, 22) sts, dc2tog; rep from * once more.

Rnd 9: Dc in each dc around. Rnd 10: *Dc in next dc, dc2tog, dc in next 10, (12, 15, 20) sts, dc2tog; rep from * once more. Rnd 11: Dc in each dc around.Sl st into next dc.

GraftinG toeturn sock inside out and align toe stitches. Dc across through both thicknesses of fabric, fasten off.

FinishingBlock and lay flat to dry. Wooden or plastic sock blockers are a great tool for stretching socks into the shape desired, as crocheted socks can be difficult to block.

Finished CiRCumFeRenCe

23.5 26.5 29 33.5 cm

9 10 11 13 in

mC 1 1 1 2 balls

CC 1 1 1 1 balls

ToTal meTRes 780 780 780 1170

ToTal yaRds 854 854 854 1281

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HTC_Book_P.44-45[DowdingSocks]EPRDEP.indd 2 22/11/2012 09:21


HTC_Book_P.46-47[NovaHat]EPRDEP.indd 1 22/11/2012 09:21


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MATERIALSl DMC Petra size 5, 100% cotton, 100g/400m/437ydsShades:MC: Grey 5414 x 1 ballCC: Golden Yellow 5742 x 1 balll Tapestry needlel 2.5mm hook

YARN ALTERNATIVESAny No 5 crochet cotton

TENSIONWork 28 sts and 16 rows in tr to

2tr in next dc, 4ch, miss 4 dc**, 2tr in next dc; rep from * around, ending final rep at **, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 64tr, 32ch. Rnd 12: 2ch, 1tr in same dc, *5tr, 2tr in next dc, 5ch, miss 5 dc**, 2tr in next dc; rep from * around, ending final rep at **, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 72tr, 40ch. Rnd 14: 2ch, 1tr in same dc, *6tr, 2tr in next dc, 6ch, miss 6 dc**, 2tr in next dc; rep from * around, ending final rep at **, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 80tr, 48ch. Rnd 16: 2ch, 1tr in same dc, *7tr, 2tr in next dc, 7ch, miss 7 dc**, 2tr in next dc; rep from * around, ending final rep at **, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 88tr, 56ch. Rnd 18: 2ch, 1tr in same dc, *8tr, 2tr in next st, 8ch, miss 8 dc**, 2tr in next st 8ch; rep from * around, ending final rep at **, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 96tr, 64ch. Rnd 20: 2ch, miss 1 dc, 11 tr, 8ch, miss 8 dc, *12tr, 8ch, miss 8 dc; rep from *around, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 96tr, 64ch.Rnd 2237: Rep rnds 2021. If you wish a longer (slouch) hat, rep rnds 2021 till you reach the desired length minus about 1cm/in then crochet rnds 3841.Rnd 38: 15ch, miss 13 dc, *8tr, 12ch, miss 12 dc; rep from * around, ending with 7tr, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 64tr, 96ch.Rnd 40: 2ch, miss first dc, 1tr in each dc around, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 160tr.Rnd 41: 1ch, 1dc in same tr, 1dc, *(1dc, picot [see Special Stitches]) in next tr, 2dc, (1dc, picot) in next tr, 4dc rep from * around to last 6 sts, (1dc, 1 picot) in next tr, 2dc, (1dc, picot) in next tr, 2dc, join with a sl st into first ch.Fasten off.

FINISHINGWeave in ends.

Nova Hatby Veruska sabucco

Inspired by richly coloured brocades from Italy in the 1500s, this hat will add a zing of colour to your outfit.

measure 10 x 10cm/ 4 x 4in using 2.5mm hook, or size required to obtain tension.

MEASUREMENTS17cm/6in tall, fits heads from 54cm/21in to about 57cm/22in

DESIGNER BIOGRAPHYVeruska lives and writes about crochet and design in both Italy and the UK, always needing the yarn she left in the other house.

Find her on Ravelry at www.ravelry.com/designers/veruska.

SPECIAL STITCH PATTERNSPicot: 2ch, sl st into the flo and the vertical side of the prev st, yo, draw up through all loops on the hook.

PATTERN NOTESTo change colour from CC to MC, with two loops on hook, yo and close the last dc of the round with the new colour, bringing CC forward to enclose it into the sl st worked in MC.To change colour from MC to CC, after working the last ch st, insert hook into the first st of the round, yo and sl st with the new colour, then work the first dc around MC.When changing colours, do not cut yarn each round, but cross the yarns at the back of the work and carry them inside the hat.

Hat With CC, using 2.5mm hook, ch 2.

Rnd 1: 8dc in 2nd ch from hook, join with a sl st into first dc to form a ring, change to colour MC 8dc.Rnd 2: 2ch (counts as tr here and throughout unless otherwise indicated), 1tr in same dc, (2tr in next dc) around, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 16tr.Rnd 3: 1ch, 2dc in same tr, (2dc in next tr) around, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to MC 32dc.Rnd 4: 2ch, 1tr in same dc, *1tr in next dc, 2tr in next dc, 1ch, miss 1dc**, 2tr in next dc; rep from * around, ending final rep at **; sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 40tr, 8ch.Rnds 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21 & 39: 1ch, 1dc in same tr, (1dc in each tr and around each ch st) around, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to MC.Rnd 6: 2ch, 1tr in same dc, *2tr, 2tr in next dc, 2ch, miss 2 dc**, 2tr in next dc; rep from * around, ending final rep at **, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 48tr, 16ch.Rnd 8: 2ch, 1tr in same dc, *3tr, 2tr in next st, 3ch, miss 3 dc**, 2tr in next dc; rep from * around, ending final rep at **, sl st to first ch-2 to join, change to CC 56tr, 24ch.Rnd 10: 2ch, 1tr in same dc, *4tr,

start

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Fashion

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FashionYour instructions start here

Diana shawlHelda Panagary

Page 50

Julia sweaterAmy Depew

Page 52

sweetheart sweater

Vicki BrownPage 56

Barnaby skirtChristine Harvey

Page 61

Lulu LeggingsPauline Turner

Page 64

Bexhill teeVicki Brown

Page 66

harry shawl neck sweater

Vicki BrownPage 70

Waffle cardiganAmy Depew

Page 74

estellaMarie Wallin

Page 78

Beginner eASY inTerMeDiATe ADVAnCeD eXPerT

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HTC_Book_P.50-51[DianaShawl]EPRDEP.indd 1 22/11/2012 09:23

Row 3: 3ch, bwcl in first ch-sp, 1ch, cl in next ch-sp, 1ch, wcl (see Special Stitch Patterns) in next ch sp, turn 16tr, 5 ch-sp.Row 4: 4ch, cl in next ch-sp, 1ch, cl in ch-sp of next cl, 1ch, cl in c

Inside Crochet - Complete Guide to Crochet Special - Volume 1 2013

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Transcript of Inside Crochet - Complete Guide to Crochet Special - Volume 1 2013