Industry News(Sep11)

8/4/2019 Industry News(Sep11)

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| Industry News

8 The JewellerAug/Sept 2011

Four leading NGOs presented theirrecommendations for action to the NAG

& BJA Ethics Committee last month. In ano holds barred session Global Witness,World Wildlife Fund, Pact and Earthworks

joined a round table discussion on thechallenges the jewellery sector currentlyfaces. Issues raised included the fragile stateof the Kimberley Process, new standards onconflict minerals and lack of representation

for artisanal miners in the global drive tomeet demands for transparency.

The NGOs discussed their work on theground, government policies and thebenefits and pitfalls of the various emerginginitiatives which aim to improve socialand environmental standards for gold anddiamond supply chains.

Global Witness gave valuable informationabout the current crisis in Zimbabweand discussed the Kimberley Processobjectives. While GW has engaged withmany artisanal miners, it explained the

difficulty in finding representatives of theminers and found that those involved in thetrading of the diamonds tended to have astronger voice.

Ethics committee member and FairtradeGold campaigner Greg Valerio said that:“Artisanal miners remain marginalisedfrom all the debates about the eliminationof conflict from the mineral trade and theunintended consequences of all these

Organisation for Economic Cooperation& Development & World Gold Councilinitiatives will be no change for the artisanalminer, which will mean no change in theconflict minerals story.”

He also raised hard-hitting questions forthe most vulnerable developing countrieson the robustness of the enforcementof their conflict free mineral policy asbusinesses rush to meet compliance forconflict free supply chains without theinclusion of artisanal miners in the deliveryof the changes.

Karen Hayes of Pact described their work on the ground to implement traceability of the ‘bagging and tagging’ of tin, tungsten,tantalum and gold which is compliant withconflict-free standards. Pact has also createdlocal communication and consultationcommittees, with their focus on practicality,social, health and safety issues in mines.

The committee also heard from No DirtyGold campaigners Earthworks, who joinedthe conversation from the USA viaconference call. Earthworks created theGolden Rules for jewellers and have mostrecently been campaigning against theproposed Anglo American ‘Pebble’ copperand gold mine in Bristol Bay, Alaska.

Of the round table talks, Simon Rainerof the BJA commented: “It was a hugely

informative and interesting meeting”. VivienJohnston of ethical jewellery company FifiBijoux, who moderated the session, said:“These are exceptionally complex issues.The collective experience and knowledge theNGOs bring to the table is vital for developinga well-rounded perspective in order to tacklethe challenges our industry is facing”.

The NAG and BJA Ethics Committee isnow reviewing the recommendations madeand plan to address these in future roundtables with other key parties within the tradeand as well as the banking sector.

NGOs present keydemands to industry

Among those retailers whose businesseswere affected by this month’s rioting in

cities across the UK was NAG member GMantella of Enfield whose store was looted.

Youths managed to pull away the metalsecurity shutter, smash windows and makeoff with around £40,000 of stock. InTottenham, where the violence started, the

jewellery shop owned by Steve Moorewas completed gutted by fire – Mr Moorelater met deputy prime minister Nick Cleggwho was assessing damage in the area.

Other jewellers caught up in the riotingincluded Argento in Peckham, Valens inWaltham Cross, Thomas Sabo in Bristol anda Pandora shop in Birmingham. On Tuesday9th, businesses in the Birmingham JewelleryQuarter – including the BJA – were advisedto close at 1pm, a preemptive measure

against possible violence. A number of shops in Hatton Garden followed suit afterrumours of trouble circulated. Thankfullythere was no trouble in either of the

locations, although rioting spread to othercites, including Wolverhampton where JohnHenn’s shop TA Henn received smashedwindows but nothing taken as stock was

locked away, and Manchester where theSwarovski store was looted.

The British Retail Consortium has met withhome secretary Theresa May and businesssecretary Vince Cable and called forintelligence-led information to help retailersprotect their properties. Assurances weregiven that those responsible for vandalism

and theft will be suitably punished.A number of other critical issues were also

raised: assurances the police and fire servicesare adequately resourced and equipped, andare authorised to use robust operationaltactics to close down situations quickly;immediate support to help shopkeepersprotect their properties: early discussions onhow affected communities can be helped torecover; joint discussions with the insuranceindustry to ensure affordable insuranceremains available in the affected areas; and

joint discussions with the banks to ensureshort to medium term credit arrangementsenable retailers to refit and re-open.

Jewellers caught in riots

Smashed windows at TA Henn which were

later boarded up (inset)


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Industry News|

S N I P P E T SNew European SM for Gurhan

New York-based fine jewellery brand Gurhan,known for its 24ct jewellery has appointedlondon-based Marie-Pierre Champetier asEuropean sales manager. While beingresponsible for developing the name inEurope, she will also be assisting Eddie Lynch,general manager of Gurhan’s Europeanoffice, on global brand development.Previously Champetier has worked with anumber of fine jewellery retail brands,including Tiffany, Graff, De Beers and Hirsh.“Gurhan combines antique jewellery-makingtechniques with a modern look in such abrilliant way – it’s about craftsmanship,

quality and rarity,” she says.

Panorama on Marange diamonds – opinionOn 8th August the BBC’sPanorama ’Mugabe’s Blood Diamonds’, investigated Zimbabwe’sMarange diamond fields and uncovered torture camps run by the country’s security

forces. The NAG’s CEO Michael Hoare offers his opinion on the programme and its findings:The question mark over the Kimberley Process puts retailers in a difficult position when

talking to customers who are concerned about the provenance of their diamonds. At the moment they can only restate the fact that all diamonds are bought from sources whichcarry a Kimberley Process warranty (if that is true) unless they have decided to switchentirely to Canadian or other ‘known source’ diamonds which offer a further reassurance.

Despite Martin Rapaport’s comments on the Panorama programme the Kimberley Process is still the only game in town – and I notice he didn’t suggest an alternative! With

no other credible system in place apart from De Beers ‘Forever Mark’, and the RJC ‘chainof custody’ standards, which won’t be in place until next year, it has to be remembered that the KP is the only system with the weight of governments behind it. And, it is not aforegone conclusion that Europe will get its way and force approval for the release of diamonds from the two Marange mines which appear to conform.

At meetings I have attended to discuss the Kimberley Process over the last ten daysthere has been general agreement from all participants (including NGOs) that the KP

has been a force for good. It certainly needs improvement but it should not be wound up unless there is a really robust alternative – not least because it is already enshrined

in legislation in 74 countries and it would be difficult to achieve quickly the same level of international agreement. It must be remembered that the system was set up in 2003 todeal with overt armed conflict. It is not equipped to deal with repressive regimes, but

needs to address this urgently. At the very least it needs a permanent secretariat and to stop equivocating in the face of what appears to be overwhelming evidence from

Zimbabwe. I fear this is only the start of the debate.

The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) has announced that International JewelleryLondon, has become an official supporter of the Council. “We are delighted to announce

IJL as a new supporter of the Responsible Jewellery Council. IJL joins institutions such asABN AMRO and Compagnie Financière Richemont SA as valuable RJC supporters andmore than 310 companies and trade associations in the Council’s growing membership,”says Michael Rae, RJC’s chief executive officer.

“At IJL 2011 RJC will be present with a booth for the duration of the show, will participatein the Great Debate and will host a workshop on RJC member certification. We are mostgrateful to IJL for their generous support and we look forward to working closely to assist allIJL exhibitors achieve the crucial goal of consumer confidence,” Rae adds.

“We have a total commitment to delivering an event that is important to the global jewelleryindustry,” says Syreeta Tranfield, IJL event co-director of the move. “Retailers and buyers cometo IJL to source the latest products and find out about trends, but they also come to gainknowledge and to find out about issues affecting the industry. This is why we have an extensive

seminar programme and hold the Great Debate, with key figures discussing ethics”.

IJL supports RJC

NAG and BJA join forces at IJL

The NAG and the BJA will be sharing a stand at IJL next month, the first time that theyhave done so at any trade fair. The move reinforces the message that the two industry

associations, together with The Jeweller, truly are ‘the Voice of the Industry’. We hope thatyou will find time during what promises to be a packed and exciting show schedule (560exhibitors to date) to come along to the stand (H151), meet members from the two teams– as well as the magazine crew – and have a glass of champagne.

Tender threat to diamond trade

Moti Ganz, president of the InternationalDiamond Manufacturers Association,published an article last month warning thatby selling their production through tenders,

the large diamond producers are upendingthe sustainability of the diamond industry atlarge. In an article, published in July in anIsrael diamond industry magazine, theIDMA president said: “There are so manytenders that the trend is threatening tointerfere with our lives. And if the roughproducers don't wake up in time… it couldbe a blow to our very existence, capabilitiesand survival. When we examine the aspectsof tenders, we realise that they weakeneach and every link along the diamond valuechain”, he added. “The most prominentvictims are manufacturers, retailers as wellas the rough producer.



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Planning application lodgedfor Scottish gold mineA

planning application to develop Scotland’s first commercial gold and silver mine atCononish near Tyndrum has been lodged by Scotgold with the Loch Lomond and the

Trossachs National Park Authority.The development, Scotland’s first commercial gold mine, is expected to produce 20,000

ounces of gold per year, of which 5,000 ounces will be extracted as unrefined gold bars andidentifiable as ‘Scottish Gold’, attracting a premium for jewellers and goldsmiths due to itsscarcity and uniqueness, should it be manufactured into jewellery. In addition to this 80,000ounces of silver will be extracted annually and it is estimated that as much as £80m in additionaleconomic activity will be generated over the project’s life in Scotland through the wider supplychain as a result of the establishment of the mine.

The project has received considerablelocal and national support, including from

such bodies as the Scottish Tourism Forum,the Scottish Council for Development andIndustry and the Assay office.

It is anticipated that the mine will create52 full time jobs in a rural community whosecurrent active skills base is largely centredon the seasonal tourist trade. Scotgold isinvestigating the potential for an apprentice-ship programme with ‘Edutrain’, the relevant training body. The rich geological endowmentof the area, its mining history, its location on a major tourist route and the potential of Scotland’s first commercial gold mine all make Tyndrum a unique location.

Scotgold has also held preliminary discussions with a number of respected and influentialparticipants in the Scottish jewellery industry (as well as from the NAG) and has receivedindications that there will be considerable interest in the manufacture in Scotland of goldand silver of verifiably Scottish extraction. “Such gold and silver will also have been ‘locallysourced’ with ‘traceable’ origin from ‘responsible’ mining practices (no mercury or cyanide)and may also attract strong interest from this sector of the jewellery market,” says ChrisSangster, managing director and CEO of Scotgold.

In April Scotgold accepted an offer of a Regional Selective Assistance grant from economicdevelopment agency, Scottish Enterprise, of up to £600,000 for the establishment of minefacilities and job creation, conditional on Scotgold obtaining planning permission. It is expectedthat a planning decision will be made on this in mid-late October.

Further updates from RJCThe Responsible Jewellery Council has announced that high street jeweller F. Hinds, with

110 stores nationwide, has become certified against the ethical, human rights, social andenvironmental standards established by the RJC Member Certification System. “As a fifthgeneration family company, the way we do business is important to us,” says Andrew Hinds,F. Hinds’ director and diamond buyer. “We were one of the earliest members of the RJC –we felt that it would enable the jewellery industry to make a real difference in the world.We have also been certified ahead of many major names in the jewellery industry, which fora family company, gives us considerable pride and pleasure.”

Also in the last month, Swiss-based precious metal refiner Argor-Heraeus, Antwerp diamondcompanies R Steinmetz and Kiran Exports, Canadian diamond-cutters and polishersCrossworks and French jewellery manufacturer Oteline have become certified. The DutchFederation of Gold and Silver is now a member and Brinks Global Services a supporter.

Clogau up for award

On 23rd September, Ben Roberts, MD of North Wales-based jewellery companyClogau Gold, will discover whether or not heis announced as Family Business Director of the Year at the Institute of Directors’ Directorof the Year Awards UK Final 2011. He wasa winner of the regional awards back inApril. Ben took over as managing directorfrom his father, William Roberts, in 2007.

S N I P P E T SChanges at Brown & Newirth

Following the launch of the new Brown& Newirth branding earlier this year, theBritish commitment ring company hasmade changes to its senior managementteam in order to focus on sales andmarketing strategies. Newly appointed salesdirector is John Ball, previously of CWSellors and DMJ who brings with him awealth of sales and business developmentexperience. Amber Saunders has beenpromoted to head of marketing to furtherdevelop the company’s commitment ringbrand and optimise its exposure andpresence. New business development

manager for Scotland, Northern and southernIreland is David Heatlie.

New outlets for Thomas Sabo

The German fashion jewellery brand hasopened a new store in Manchester’s TraffordCentre. The company’s previous, muchsmaller premises (27 square meters) wasclosed, with the new branch being 90square meters. At the same time its spacein Selfridges in the Trafford Centre hasbeen doubled. October will see a newconcession in Selfridges Exchange Squarein Manchester city centre.



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S N I P P E T SNew Armani watch

Armani Exchange, a young urban brand fromthe Girogio Armani stable is celebrating its20th anniversary with the launch of a specialedition timepiece collection. The casual men’sand women’s models feature the A/X logoand this season’s strong metal finish –rose gold. The men’s style comes withnylon interchangeable straps in dark brownand navy, while the women’s model has arose gold bracelet. They are both sold withspecial anniversary packaging.

Racing driver launcheshis own watch collection

Swedish racing driver Stefan Johansson,

who has enjoyed a 30+ year career inmotor sport, has launched his own watchbrand – Stefan Johansson Vaxjo. Ratherthan simply endorsing the timepieces,Johansson has created the faces andstraps and closely supervises the produc-tion of parts and assembly in Switzerland.A forthcoming collection will feature apatent-pending mechanical movement of Johansson’s own design. Each model istested on his wrist (or that of another prodriver) to ensure that it withstands racingconditions, from vibration and shock toaltitude changes and extreme heat.www.stefanjohansson.com

Changes planned forSunday Trading – opinionS

unday trading legislation must be amended in order to respond to the challenge setby the London Olympics 2012 and other major events, according to Mark Menzies MP.

He tabled a Ten Minute Rule Bill on 6th July which aims to allow temporary relaxations of Sunday trading regulations for the duration of the Olympic Games without compromisingthe stature of Sunday as a family day.

Menzies also believes that giving local authorities the power to amend Sunday tradinglegislation for special, one-off events will help traders in Fylde (his constituency) and theNorth West through a difficult period as well as boosting the Games.

On his website Menzies states that the Games will bring hundreds of thousands of tourists, journalists, and foreign leaders into the UK; and we need to show that our country is able toaccommodate their demands and display that our country is welcoming to the demands of these many visitors. “Allowing all shops to stay open later on Sundays has these advantages

whilst making the big events more convenient for tourists.”The 1994 Sunday Trading Act currently governs retail opening hours, and the Menzies

proposal would see an amendment to the legislation. His further suggestion is thatdiscretion could be applied to special events all over the North West such as Blackpool’sArmed Forces week, Tram Sunday in Fleetwood, Lytham Proms and even the upcomingPreston Guild. The Sunday Trading (Amendment) Bill is scheduled for a second reading atthe end of November, after which it will go to a vote.

The British Retail Consortium is unsure how its members will react. On the one hand itstates that ‘Britain has invested billions of pounds into the Games and we must maximisethe opportunity from the hundreds of thousands of new tourists that will come.” On theother it concedes that others may prefer sticking to the current regime as relaxation of therules will merely spread out existing trade while increasing operational costs.

Others, including Therese Coffey MP, raise the objection that the change would forceshop staff to work during the Games, thus spoiling the occasion for them. Others, I amsure, will see this proposed amendment as the thin end of a wedge which eventually tearsthe Sunday Trading Act asunder.Michael Hoare, CEO NAG

First studio for W&W

The bespoke British jeweller W&W has opened its first studio – on Webbs Road, in theheart of Battersea, South London. Having previously operated from an office, the new

jewellery destination has been designed with the client in mind – an environment from

which to enjoy a personal and comfortable service.Fine jewellery specialists W&W provides a customised service encompassing all needs

and budgets from designing and creating a unique piece or sourcing fine vintage jewelsto selecting ethical gemstones or simply getting a ring resized. Breaking away from thetraditional shop front, the studio provides a space where clients can relax and enjoy their

jewellery experience… by appointment only.“There is no over-the-counter hard sell,

just beautiful handmade jewellery fromdesigners who focus on impeccablecustomer service,” says director RichardWarrender. “The move to our new studioin Battersea has been an exciting andprogressive time for us – we now have aluxurious home where we can reallyshowcase what we are all about.”



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Report on ethical jewelleryTop jewellery brands are failing to meet the growing expectations of customers for ethical

sourcing of metals and gemstones, thereby providing opportunities for new brands toemerge, according to an independent report.

Published by Fair Jewelry Action, a non-profit organisation promoting fairly traded jewellery, andstrategy advisers Lifeworth Consulting, the report benchmarks ten prestigious jewellery brandson their social and environmental performance. It compares their performance with innovationsin the ethical sourcing of precious metal and gemstones, and finds them significantly laggingbehind, with the sole exceptions of Cartier and Boucheron, which are recognised for takinguseful steps. The research also found that six of the 10 brands still offered Burmese rubiesfrom their London or Geneva boutiques last year, despite an EU embargo.

One reason for the lack of comprehensive action from prestigious brands is identified as

the absence of a positive vision for the ethical role of the jewellery industry. “Although adecade of effort to reduce conflict and environmental damage from jewellery supply chains hascurbed some of the worst practices, it has failed to identify an aspirational role for jewellery.Today, the efforts of responsible jewellery pioneers are outlining a vision of ethical excellence,”says report co-author Dr. Jem Bendell. “By comparing the actions of ten luxury brands withthis new vision, the report finds luxury jewellery firms risk being left behind in an increasinglyaspirational marketplace,” he says.

The report, entitled Uplifting the Earth: the ethical performance of luxury jewellery brands,provides guidance on how brands can move beyond a negative risk management approachto their ethical considerations, and instead use social and environmental issues as a creativeinspiration and collaborate to make jewellery a positive force for all involved. “Morepeople recognise something is beautiful if it has been made beautifully, which involves allaspects of its creation. Some in the industry understand that, and need help to get buy-infrom their colleagues. This report is for them,” explains report co-author Ian Doyle, of www.lifeworth.com/consulting

M-commerce jewellerywebsite launchesScottish retailer Rox has invested £25,000

in the launch of an m-commerce website(www.rox.co.uk) which allows customers tobrowse and purchase the full Rox range usingtheir smart phone. The Scottish FashionAwards’ Retailer of the Year is believed to bethe first UK jeweller to optimise its websitefor smart phone users. On a monthly basisthe Rox website receives 75,000 visitorsa month and it is expected that the newm-commerce site will attract a further 7,500.

Recent research has shown that mobileretail searches soared by 216% year-on-yearin the second quarter of 2011 as the surgein online shopping continued.

Managing director and co-owner of Rox, Kyron Keogh, says: “Online sales now account for15 per cent of our annual turnover and with the rapid increase of smart phones we felt it wasessential to upgrade our website to offer our customers a superior browsing experience. Thereis already considerable existing demand to engage with our customers via mobile devices”.

S N I P P E T STivon to be officialDiamond Jubilee partner

Tivon Fine Jewellers has been selectedas one of the official partners to HM TheQueen’s Diamond Jubilee celebrations nextyear. The year-long campaign will be hostedby the Army & Navy Club, whose patronis the Queen and president the Duke of Kent and which celebrates its own 175thanniversary in 2012. The finer details of the partnership are still to be finalised, butit will include being featured in an officialpublication, as well as associated mediaand being part of the main gala event.

Chamilia links up withSwarovski

Just days after Danish jewellery companyPandora issued a shock profits warning,sending shares into freefall and forcing itsCEO to resign, another brand in the businessof selling charms and beads posts a morepositive story. Chamilia has entered into astrategic global partnership with Swarovskito create a co-branded bead collectionin Swarovski boutiques and a separateSwarovski collection developed forChamilia stores.

Israel to get GIA centre

The Gemmological Institute of America(GIA) is planning to open a centre in Isrealduring the fourth quarter of 2011. It willinclude laboratory, education and researchfacilities and provide in-lab services includingGIA diamond grading reports and diamonddossiers and educational seminars ondiamond grading.

More silver for H. Samuel

H.Samuel has announced the expansion of its range of affordable silver jewellery tomeet growing consumer demand. In recentyears, the jeweller has grown its range of silver fashion brands, including Chamiliaand Truth, and is now building on this tooffer consumers even greater choice.

The Italian sterling silver Petali Di Amorerange is also featured in the new editorialstyle in-store catalogue. Inspired by nature,this collection features butterfly and floralpieces, including earrings, bracelets, ringsand pendants.



W e l o o k f o r w a r d t o s e e i n g y o u !



Unwanted watchesscrapped in Ireland

The Voice of the Industry17

Industry News|

After a vigorous nationwide campaignchampioned by The Birmingham Assay

Office and with strong support from theNAG and BJA, the results of the first ‘retail’round of the Governments’ Red TapeChallenge has recognised hallmarking as a‘good regulation’. Minister for Business andEnterprise Mark Prisk listed some confusingand overlapping regulations which were to bescrapped, but said “we are preserving goodregulation, such as the hallmarking regime,for which there was strong support”.

The announcement that hallmarking is no

longer under threat is good news for the UK jewellery industry as the majority of responsesto the Red Tape Challenge demonstrated thatliterally thousands of retailers, manufacturers,designers and consumers see hallmarkingas a vital piece of consumer protection.Support for UK hallmarking also came frompoliticians and other local supporters of TheBirmingham Assay Office as well as fromthe main trade associations.

Current UK hallmarking legislation requiresall but the most lightweight precious metalitems to be independently tested andhallmarked by an Assay Office to verifytheir precious metal content prior to sale.The system ensures that the precious metalalloys, from which jewellery or silverwareis made, contain the requisite percentageof high value precious metal. This is anassessment which even an expert cannotmake by eye. Hallmarking therefore protectsthe consumer and ensures that suppliersare competing on a level playing field;

particularly important when precious metalprices are at an all time high.

Retail Jewellers of Ireland declared Augustto be National Watch Scrappage &

Recycling Month. Joining forces with WEEEIreland (Waste Electrical & ElectronicEquipment compliance scheme) they havelaunched a major recycling drive – offering a20 per cent discount to customers whobring back their old watches for recycling inRJI member stores during the month.

Tony Cahill, president of the RJI said, “Ourmembers are already actively involved with

the EU WEEE programme, but realise thatmany members of the public are unaware that old watches must not be binned and sent tolandfill. Through the WEEE recycling initiative, all the metals, glass and resins in unwantedwatches and other materials in batteries can be recovered for use again in industry. We areencouraging the public to make the most of this incentive during the month of August.”Irish model Nadia Forde joined WEEE and RJI on Grafton Street, Dublin to help launch theinitiative – shown here with Tony Cahill, president RJI and Leo Donovan, CEO WEEE Ireland.

Developments at NuvalF

ollowing the departure of Neil Duckworth from the company last June, Nuval, the UKdistributor for TechnoMarine, Phillip Stein, Fruitz, Metal CH, Carl F Bucherer and the UK

agent for Chimento Jewellery, has announced changes within the management structure.Jurek Piasecki has taken over the role of managing director and continues to be the owner

and principal shareholder of the Nuval. Mark Sutcliffe has recently joined Nuval as sales director.Previously MD of DESCO Luxury Ltd distributing Maurice Lacroix watches, Sutcliffe will beresponsible for sales on all brands and will personally focus on the luxury brand Carl F.Bucherer. Richard Darling, commercial director and company secretary continues in hiscurrent role. Charlotte Cherrie has been promoted to brand director. Hayley Nichols continuesin her current role as account manager for TechnoMarine and Chimento Jewellery and ToniaMcManus as account manager for Philip Stein, Fruitz and Metal CH. Nuval will shortly beopening a new London showroom, while maintaining its Birmingham office.

Retail recipe for money making!

Take two Garys, add stuff that doesn’t sell and some innovative thinking, then melt downinto cutting-edge, profit-making, design technology. Gary Baines of Gemvision and

Gary Williams of Presman, have joined forces to create “a simple scheme for turning old,non-selling stock into easy-to-use, state-of-the-art, design technology, which can help drivebusiness, put money back into the till and cement customer relationships.”

Presman, the oldest ‘trade only’ scrap counter in the UK, has agreed a special enhanceddeal to help retailers fund purchases from the Gemvision collection of products. MatrixDesign Software, the Revo Milling System or Counter Sketch Studio, can now be boughtthrough Gemvision using the UK hallmarked stock, most retailers have not been able to sellover the years. An additional bonus currently is the high metal prices, which depending onthe date of purchase, might even mean a good profit is made on the original purchase price.For more details contact Gary Baines at Gemvision Europe on 01133 899710 (IJL Stand C120)

Hallmarkingis saved!



| Industry News


This year’s 18th annual UK Jewellery Awardsat the Grosvenor House Hotel in London

on July 14th recognised six NAG members’successes during the glittering awards night.The event, attended by key industry figurescelebrating and commending the very bestin jewellery and watch retail, was presentedby model and DJ Lisa Snowdon. John PassJewellers, Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design,Steffan’s, Beaverbrooks the Jewellers, RoxWatch and Diamond Specialist, and FraserHart Fields all took to the stage to collecttheir trophies.

Many congratulations to our NAG stars:• Retail Star of the Year

Winner: Andrew Pass, John Pass Jewellers• Business Initiative of the Year

Winner: Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design• Jewellery e-tailer of the Year

Winner: Steffan’s• Retail Employer of the Year

Winner: Beaverbrooks the Jewellers• Independent Retailer of the Year

Winner: Rox Watch and Diamond Specialist • Multiple Retailer of the Year

Winner: Fraser Hart Fields

NAG members win awards

Staff from Steffan’s, ‘Etailer of the Year’, receive their award. Image courtesy of Retail Jeweller New ethicallines launched

Last month saw the launch of FoundationJewellery, an ethical luxury jewellery

collection and one of the UK’s first 20Fairtrade accredited jewellers. The companyuses both recycled and Fairtrade sourcedmetals (gold and platinum) and the mostethical diamonds available – independentlycertified whenever possible. It offers acomprehensive range of classic jewelleryincluding engagement rings, wedding rings,diamond earrings and pendants.

In addition to a focused product range,Foundation Jewellery provides a full retailpackage, including full training on how ethical

jewellery can be sold within existing ranges,

recycled packaging, a compact windowdisplay and other point of sale branding.

The brand has been established by AdamJacobs and Peter Ungar, who togetherhave over 15 years experience in retail andwholesale jewellery and are from familieswho have been in the jewellery industry formany generations.

Harriet Kelsall

launches designcompetition

In a first for the UK jewellery industry,Hertfordshire and Cambridge-based

bespoke jewellery designer Harriet Kelsall isto launch a design competition throughYouTube. Students at the University of Creative Arts, Kent, will be briefed inOctober via the social media site.

Students will watch a clip of an actressposing as a customer asking for a bespoke

ring. The ‘customer’ will talk about herinspiration behind the ring and her budget

just as in a real-life design consultation.Students must come up with four designconcepts that meet the customer’s brief.

The winning entry (chosen in March2012) will be brought to life by Kelsall’steam of goldsmiths and the successfulstudent will also be invited to complete awork placement at Harriet Kelsall givingthem a unique opportunity to experiencebespoke jewellery design on the shop floor.

In initiating the competition, Kelsall hopesto raise the profile of bespoke jewellerydesign among young designers.

Design initiative launchesSam Wharton, son of the jewellery designer/manufacturer Christopher Wharton has

started a new business – One Stop CAD Solutions. The move follows working for his

father’s business since 2000, during which time he undertook extensive training in CADdesign, along with other goldsmiths in the business.

A retail customer will be able to give Sam an idea or sketch of their requirements and fromthere a detailed image (to show his customer) and then a wax model will be produced.Once approved by the customer, the piece can be cast, set and finished all within ChristopherWharton’s own workshops, thus eliminating all the running around (casting, setting, finishingetc) for the retailer and at the same time giving the customer peace of mind knowing thatthe finished product will be to the very highest of standards.

“With his artistic ability and a very keen eye for detail, Sam and the other goldsmiths canproduce beautiful pieces that really do blend modern technology with craftsmanship anddesign,” says Christopher. “The result is like the best hand-made jewellery, unlike some of the typically ‘CAD designed’ blocky and cumbersome pieces on the market today.”

Having completed a three-year jewellery design and mounting course at Sir John CassCollege, Sam, who has just celebrated his 20th year in the trade, started out in retail atBoodles and then at David Morris before joining Christopher Wharton.



P H . F R A N

C O P A G E T T I W W W

. F O P E . C O M

For your nearest retailer call 0800 206 1909 or visit www. opeuk.com/fexit



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At 8.30am on 9th June 2011 I reachedthe summit of Kilimanjaro, the highest

mountain in Africa, at some 5,895 metres.My principal aim was to raise money forCancer Research UK ( justgiving.com/robert

-vander-woerd ) in recognition of four peoplewho died in 2010, one of whom was KevinColeman, the former Chairman of the NAG.

After two nights in a Kilimanjaro hotel westarted our walk on Saturday 4th June. Wewere split into colour-coded groups of sevenor eight people. In my party were twoprofessional soldiers, a lady sailor, a lady

teacher and two gentlemen in the insuranceand finance world. The whole group wassupported by 160 porters and guides who

carried our supplies and tents, organised bythe excellent Team Kilimanjaro.

Our initial walk lasted six hours throughvaried terrain – green and teaming withanimal life. This was the easiest day as wecovered only six kilometres or so, arrivingat 3,482 meters, having climbed from 1900.On our first night we sat outside as it wasstill warm, feeling immense trepidation of what lay ahead, and endeavouring to eatfood which was acceptable but hardly finedining. We were all in bed by 8.30 pm butnone of us slept very well.

Over the next three days we moved onup the mountain, the terrain becomingbleaker with less vegetation. Many of us feltill and suffered from headaches. Sleepingwas a problem; we were tired, but justcouldn’t sleep. The dust from the walk waseverywhere – in your clothes, on your handsand face. There wasn’t any water other thanone bowl each evening so we made gooduse of hand wipes.

The friendship between group membersgrew ever stronger. We supported each otheras at times many of us felt below par andthat we couldn’t go on. The most visitedplaces on the mountainside were the WCs.

There was laughter and tears. On the fifthday we reached base camp. One memberof another team was very seriously ill andwas taken down the mountainside and tohospital, but it took nine hours. Even now,six weeks later he has not fully recovered.

The final ascent began at midnight. Eachof us, supported by a porter carrying our daypack, wore a ‘miner’s light’ as it was pitchdark and so began a walk that went on foreight and a half hours. It was cold and windybut fortunately not wet. Looking up themountain all that could be seen was ourgroup of approximately 100 people weavingvertically far ahead, with their lights flickering.One’s heart sank at the distance yet to climb.

“Poley, poley” said the guides continuously;“slowly, slowly”. The only way to go.

Permanently out of breath your brain doesnot understand why your legs won’t work.At about 5.30 am the sun rose, a red glowbehind us almost lifting the spirits.You hoped to soon feel warm – but youdidn’t. Eventually, I reached Gilman’spoint at 5,300 meters and was greeted byarmy major Al, 6’3” and 18 stone, with a bigkiss… tears in both of our eyes. We then had

another hour’s walk to the actual summit –not steep but extremely taxing. Havingreached the goal, pictures were taken, thesun was shining but everyone was keen todescend; another ten hours to our overnight

base camp, which meant that we had beenwalking almost solidly for eighteen hours.

Would I do it again? Probably not. I amproud of what I have achieved. I have metpeople from so many walks of life includingindividuals who had never been out of theUK in their lives. The friendships still remainin place and probably will forever. One of the most remarkable people on the trip wasAndy Blythe whose back was broken in 2005while playing professional rugby and whowas expected never to walk again. Hisdetermination to walk is a miracle in itself, butdespite all his personal difficulties he got tothe top – a far greater achievement than mine!

George Mallory (right) on Everest.RVW managed to keep his clothes on!

The KilimanjaroChallengeRobert Vander Woerd, managing director of EP Mallory & Sonin Bath, great grandson of founder Edward Palmer Mallory and distant relative of George Mallory `(who may have beenthe first to climb Everest in 1924) describes his epic trip.



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