IMWSCC Board Industry Insider 1 7 Magleby’s in ... · Why the EWG Skin Deep Database is Still a...

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Chair ElectRick [email protected]

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Intermountain West Society Of Cosmetic Chemists

THE COSMETIC SUMMITNewslet ter

Third Quarter 2015

Third Quarter Sponsors:

AAKLIPSCOMB

Industry InsiderNeways’ Top Ten Favorite Restaurants

2 BLTA Croissant at Red Robin. – Tiffany

3Happy Sumo in the River-woods. My favorite dish there is the Baja Roll—spicy!!! – JoDee

4 I am pretty simple. I like the Tour of Italy at Olive Garden. – Heidi

5 I like the BBQ chicken and pork grilled with a ton of garlic and chili sauce at the Mongolian

Grill in Springville. – Keith

6 I’m happy just grab-bing a steak at Sizzler. – Richard

7 Magleby’s in Springville is my favorite and my preferred dish

there is Wonderful Halibut with vegetables. – Jane

8 Café Rio and my favor-ite dish is the shredded beef salad. – Kristen

9 When I have a break or cheat day from my diet, Two Jacks Pizza in Spanish Fork or Spring-

ville is where I go. Choice of pizza is Canadian bacon and mushrooms. However, their oth-er pizzas are quite delicious too. – James

10 I love a good burger. Cubby’s Dragon Slayer cooked through,

not well done. – Brad

1 P.F. Changs! My favor-ite dish is their lettuce wraps with beef and broccoli. – Randall

2 IMWSCC 3rd Quarter 2015

Table of ContentsIndustry Insider p.1

Chemists Corner p. 3-4

Supplier Spotlight p. 5

IMWSCC Spotlight p. 7

Regulatory Department p. 8

Morninga Butter: Ancient Botanical in Modern Form p. 10-14

Company Spotlight p. 15

TnT Meeting Agenda p. 16-17

IOU Meeting Synopsis p. 19

Read to Win!Somewhere in the newsletter we’ve hidden the IMWSCC favicon symbol it looks like this - . Spot it and email Eric ([email protected]) the page number and place where it is and you’ll be entered in a drawing for a chance to win a gift card at the next meeting.

The Soul & Science of Beauty.

Evonik Industries AG Essen, Germany PHONE +49 201 173-2854

Evonik Corporation Hopewell, Virginia, USA PHONE +1 804 541-8658

[email protected] [email protected] www.evonik.com/personal-care

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3rd Quarter 2015 IMWSCC 3

Perry Romanowski: ChemistsCorner.com

Why the EWG Skin Deep Database is Still a Dubious SourceThe EWG gets a lot of criticism for flaws in their database, but I have to give them credit where credit is due. They have fixed at least one flaw that I pointed out in a previous post. They used to have a listing for a fictional compound, POLYPARABEN, and they have since removed it. They still list Polyparaben as a synonym for Propylparaben but that is a minor mistake. I find it encouraging that they have fixed anything.

By: Perry Romanowski

For example, how can an ingredient like HYDROGENATED PALM GLYCERIDES get a zero rating? A zero rating is the most safe you can score. They admit that this rating is based on no data. What is it based on? I have no idea.

Maybe they think Palm Glycerides sounds natural so it gets a zero rating with no data but then how would you explain the zero rating based on no data for HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/ SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER? There is certainly nothing natural about an acrylic polymer.

You could say that zero is the starting point so any ingredient that has zero data will get a zero rating. This seems rather silly but it would be logical. Of course, this is not the case. Consider these examples…

1. PEG-150 DISTEARATE – Rating 3, no data

2. TEA COCOYL HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN – Rating 4, no data

3. PEG-2 SOYAMINE – Rating 5, no data

4. SODIUM OCTOXYNOL-2 ETHANE SULFONATE – Rating 6, no data

Without any data, how did these ingredients get a rating?

Naive Ratings

Another criticism of the EWG database is that the ratings demonstrate a lack of understanding of the raw materials they are rating. For example, they list SODIUM COCOYL SULFATE and give it a zero rating with zero data. They also have a listing for SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE and give it a 1-2 rating with a “fair” amount of data. This makes no sense.

Anyone who knows chemistry knows that Sodium Cocoyl Sulfate is essentially the same thing as Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.

So how is it that two chemicals which are essentially identical have different ratings? All the fair amount of data that is available for Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is equally applicable to Sodium Cocoyl Sulfate!

If any knowledgeable chemist was involved in making the database, this problem of naivety could be avoided.

Profit over Safety

I also criticized them for profiting off of what they consider “dangerous” products. And they still do that. One of the ways the EWG makes money is by participating in affiliate programs, specifically the Amazon Associates program. This is a good deal for websites because if a consumer goes to Amazon and makes a purchase the website owner gets a small % of the sale (somewhere between 2 and 4%).

Unfortunately, the EWG seems more concerned about their Amazon Associates sales than they do about consumer safety. After all, why would they put an affiliate link to a product they rate as the worst of the worst?

Aveeno Active Naturals Radiant Tinted Moisturizer has a rating of 10. A 10 rating is the most dangerous product that can be found in the Skin Deep Database (according to them). But if you click on the picture they’ll be happy to have you buy the product through their affiliate program. If a product was this dangerous how could the EWG possibly encourage people to buy it?

Ratings Based on Nothing

One of the “improvements” recently added to the Skin Deep Database was an additional rating of the quality of data supporting the safety rating. This is understandable since ratings based on single studies are much weaker than ratings based on lots of studies. However, this does not seem to affect the way they rate ingredients.


Is there anything else?

There are some good things about the EWG Skin Deep Database. I do like that you can look up ingredients and compare them to different products on the market. This is quite handy for a formulator. And if a person is allergic to any specific ingredient, it’s especially helpful to know what you can avoid.

However, the hazard ratings and collected science are mostly rubbish and not worth paying attention to. If you want a more reliable database, consider looking at the Cosmetic Ingredient Review. This one is actually collated by toxicologists and other people with science backgrounds. And if you want one produced by the EU, the European Commission website will be more helpful.

Chemist Corner Continued:

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Supplier Spotlight: CoValence® Laboratorieswww.covalence.com

Company Description

CoValence® is an FDA registered and ISO 22716 certified skin care / personal care contract and private label manufacturer. Since 1989, our advanced skin care concepts and formulas have been in the forefront of skin care innovation…You may not have heard of us, but you have heard of our clients, products and technologies in the national and international personal care industry.

Customer Service, International Regulations, R&D, Cosmeceutical and OTC Manufacturing, Quality Control, Filling and Shipping are all under one roof which makes communication with our clients efficient, leaving more time for our clients to do what they do best…growing their businesses.

Key Personnel • Pete Vlcek, CEO

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Technologies, Patents, New Products

CoValence® has been manufacturing unique ingredient concept products from day one. We introduced chirality to skin care manufacturing during the mid-90s when it had been primarily recognized in pharmaceutical development. We continue to research sophisticated “mechanism of action” ingredients including the first stable Retinaldehyde, IconicA®, successfully utilized in skin care.

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Spotlight:Keith Murphy

Where were you born? Great Falls, Montana aka Big Sky Country.

As a child, what did you want to be when you grew up? I wanted to be a pilot in the air force. Since I haven’t yet grown up, there is still a chance!

Favorite Hobbies? I enjoy almost everything outdoors, especially hiking, fishing, and camping.

Favorite TV Show? Since I do not watch much TV, the one that comes to mind is Bob Ross doing his paintings. The way he described his art was intriguing along with the way it all came together in an effortless manner.

Favorite Movie? Top Gun- this movie made me want to be a pilot. Another favorite is Sleepless in Seattle because of how sweet Meg Ryan is in that film. I really have not watched many movies because I prefer to be outside.

On the weekend, you will most likely be found… I would be hard to track down in the mountains because I would probably be exploring the back country. If I were in an accessible location, it would likely be at a golf course, favorite fishing spot, or on a snowboard.

Any nicknames we should know about? Murph, Smurphy, Slim, and a few that I won’t mention. :)

What is the most adventurous thing you’ve ever done? I went on a five day backpacking trip in the desert. I survived but I was much thinner at the end. During the hike I jumped off a couple high cliffs into cold refreshing water.

What was your last vacation? Lake Tahoe to go boating and exploring.

If you could have a super-power what wouldit be? I would love to have the power to bring more peace into the world.

What is your favorite quote? “Only when the last tree has died, the last river been poisoned, and the last fish been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.” Cree Indian Proverb


“Some ingredients in this product can only be used in drugs, you’re going to have to switch preservatives, organic claims will only be valid in the United States, fragrance free will have to be changed and the names for the exclusive ingredients will have to receive INCI names from the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) before the ingredient panel can be added to the label. Or, you can sell it and hope you don’t get caught.” After my comments, I looked around the room at the disgruntled faces of the executives as Regulatory Affairs, a.k.a. “the department of sales prevention”, had once again lived up to its inglorious moniker.

The product development team was so excited to tell me that the formulation was ready, contract manufacturer was in place and the pilot batch would soon be complete. All they needed was to register the product in their current markets and compile the documentation. The testing had been carried out so that they could make specific claims on the products and additional testing for subsequent claims was also scheduled.

The products were scheduled to be launched in the United States within the next six months and 15 additional countries were to be ready within the next 18 months. The problem wasn’t the timeline or the formula efficacy; the problem was the product didn’t meet the regulatory requirements for some of the international countries. Regulations are different from country to country and are especially diverse for preservatives, whitening agents, sunscreens, colorants, testing methods, classifications and claims.

After the meeting, I regretfully informed R&D that they should cancel the pilot (if possible), change the preservative system (as well as the total % of preservative to formula), apply for INCI names, cancel the new ingredient/finish product testing on animals and cancel the tests for acne, anti-bacterial properties and rosacea/skin irritation reduction. Simply put, they had a product they couldn’t export with claims they couldn’t make. This resulted in a very frustrated product development team.

Even though this was a big hassle, a valuable lesson was learned and new SOPs reflected that gained knowledge. When a new product is coming out or a product needs to be reformulated, there are a number of questions that need to be answered before formulation occurs.

D. Scott Taylor

[email protected]

1.Is this product going to be allowed in our international markets?

2. What testing methods must be used for safety requirements abroad?

3. Will the introduction of certain ingredients change the classification of the product?

4. Which claims can be made and what are the substantiation/testing requirements?

5. Do the manufacturers have the necessary documentation/certifications for the registration processes?

6. Are there any changes in the foreseeable future that will affect the acceptability of this product?

If these questions are answered, R&D will have the basis upon which to build their formulation.

I n g r e d i e n t s can be selected from acceptable manufacturers and reformulation will only have to occur for

organoleptic or technical reasons.

Prevention vs reaction - it is much easier and much more cost effective to apply sunscreen than get rid of melanoma. By coordinating formulation activities with regulatory research, you can optimize your chances of having a viable formula for the US and international markets. Not only will you save money, mitigate the risk of reformulation and save some hairs on your head, you will also be able to spend more time preparing for next year’s golf tournament.

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On Earth Day 2008, as is the annual tradition, the US National Institutes of Health hosted a mystery plant contest. The clues for the mystery plant included:

...[it] has important medicinal properties but is not endangered. In fact, perhaps like no other single species, this plant has the potential to help reverse multiple major environmental problems and provide for many unmet human needs.1

What was this mystery plant with over 100 different names in multiple languages around the world? Moringa oleifera – “the miracle tree” whose leaves alone contain seven times the vitamin C of oranges, four times the vitamin A of carrots, four times the calcium of milk, more iron than spinach, three times the potassium of bananas, and twice the protein of yogurt.2,3 In addition, this vitamin-rich plant contains a variety of amino acids, as well as antioxidants and trace elements.4

The positive attributes of the moringa tree do not end with its nutritional benefits. In fact, the seed oil from Moringa oleifera has the highest oxidative stability of any vegetable oil available. Moringa oil also imparts several favourable aesthetic properties, such as providing a rich, cushiony,

Moringa Butter: Ancient Botanical in Modern FormBy: Tiffany N. Oliphant and Robert A Harper, PhD

Tiffany N. Oliphant – Floratech, Robert A. Harper PhD – Harper & Associates

non-greasy skin-feel with low odour and colour to cosmetic and personal care formulations.4

Ancient History of Moringa Seed OilMoringa oleifera (Fig. 1) is a flowering tree native to the foothills of the Himalayas in northern India. It is cultivated in many parts of the world including Africa, tropical Americas, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, and the Philippines.4 Not surprisingly, the moringa tree is known by many names. In Senegal it is known as nebeday (the tree that never dies) because it is able to survive disasters such as fire and it grows quickly (up to 12 metres per year). In the Philippines the moringa tree is known as a mother’s best friend because moringa leaves are used to increase the amount of a mother’s milk, or are boiled and fed to children. In India, the moringa tree is called the drumstick tree due to the elongated shape of its seed pods.2 The moringa tree is also known by various other names throughout Africa, Asia, South and Central America, and the Caribbean.5

The use of moringa oil, by ancient Egyptians has been recorded in hieroglyphs. In fact, Egyptologists have documented various applications and formulas containing moringa oil for topical pastes and perfumes.6 Some of the historical uses of the moringa plant are shown in Table 1.2,7,8 This profile undoubtedly accounts for the historical therapeutic

Composition and Physiochemical Properties of Moringa OilMoringa seeds yield up to 40% oil by cold extraction. The resulting oil contains almost 70% oleic triglycerides, which is comparable to other triglyceride oils such as olive or canola. However, moringa oil has a lower iodine value of ~70 g/100 g compared to ~84 g/100 g for olive oil and ~118 g/100 g for canola oil.4,9 Iodine value is one indication of how readily the

2 PERSONAL CARE Reprinted from June 2011

Tiffany Oliphant, Chad Dubbelde – Floratech, USRobert A Harper – Harper & Associates, US

NATURALS

On Earth Day 2008, as is the annualtradition, the US National Institutes ofHealth hosted a mystery plant contest. The clues for the mystery plant included:

...[it] has important medicinalproperties but is not endangered. In fact, perhaps like no other singlespecies, this plant has the potential to help reverse multiple majorenvironmental problems and provide for many unmet human needs.1

What was this mystery plant with over100 different names in multiple languagesaround the world? Moringa oleifera – “themiracle tree” whose leaves alone containseven times the vitamin C of oranges, fourtimes the vitamin A of carrots, four timesthe calcium of milk, more iron thanspinach, three times the potassium of bananas, and twice the protein ofyogurt.2,3 In addition, this vitamin-richplant contains a variety of amino acids, aswell as antioxidants and trace elements.4

The positive attributes of the moringatree do not end with its nutritionalbenefits. In fact, the seed oil fromMoringa oleifera has the highest oxidativestability of any vegetable oil available.Moringa oil also imparts severalfavourable aesthetic properties, such asproviding a rich, cushiony, non-greasyskin-feel with low odour and colour tocosmetic and personal care formulations.4

Ancient history of moringa seed oilMoringa oleifera (Fig. 1) is a floweringtree native to the foothills of theHimalayas in northern India. It iscultivated in many parts of the worldincluding Africa, tropical Americas, SriLanka, Malaysia, and the Philippines.4

Not surprisingly, the moringa tree is knownby many names. In Senegal it is known as nebeday (the tree that never dies)because it is able to survive disasterssuch as fire and it grows quickly (up to 12 metres per year). In the Philippinesthe moringa tree is known as a mother’sbest friend because moringa leaves areused to increase the amount of a

mother’s milk, or are boiled and fed tochildren. In India, the moringa tree is calledthe drumstick tree due to the elongatedshape of its seed pods.2 The moringa treeis also known by various other namesthroughout Africa, Asia, South and Central America, and the Caribbean.5

The use of moringa oil, by ancientEgyptians has been recorded inhieroglyphs. In fact, Egyptologists havedocumented various applications andformulas containing moringa oil for topicalpastes and perfumes.6 Some of thehistorical uses of the moringa plant are shown in Table 1.2,7,8

This profile undoubtedly accounts for the historical therapeutic applicationsof the moringa plant.

Composition andphysiochemical propertiesof moringa oil Moringa seeds yield up to 40% oil by cold extraction. The resulting oil containsalmost 70% oleic triglycerides, which iscomparable to other triglyceride oils suchas olive or canola. However, moringa oilhas a lower iodine value of ~70 g/100 gcompared to ~84 g/100 g for olive oiland ~118 g/100 g for canola oil.4,9 Iodinevalue is one indication of how readily theoil will become rancid due to oxidation.Another indicator of oxidative stability isthe “Oil Stability Index” or OSI. Properlyprepared commercially available moringaoil1 has an unexpectedly high OSI of~133 hours, compared to similarlytreated vegetable oils which have typicalOSI values of ~30 hours. Moringa oil isalso unique in its low free fatty acidcontent. Free fatty acids can be irritatingto the skin. Moringa oil has an acid value of less than 1 mg KOH/g.4

Unsaponifiable substances, which

Moringa butter: ancientbotanical in modern form

ABSTRACT

Moringa butter is derived from the oil ofthe seeds of Moringa oleifera, a treenative to India. Moringa butter may infercertain skin benefits, when incorporatedinto hair and skin care products. Clinicaldata indicate that moringa butterenhances skin barrier recovery frombarrier damage as well as increases skinhydration. The increase in skin hydrationwas also correlated with consumerperception of skin moisture.

Figure 1: Moringa oleifera tree (above)and the seeds below.


Tiffany Oliphant, Chad Dubbelde – Floratech, USRobert A Harper – Harper & Associates, US

NATURALS

On Earth Day 2008, as is the annualtradition, the US National Institutes ofHealth hosted a mystery plant contest. The clues for the mystery plant included:

...[it] has important medicinalproperties but is not endangered. In fact, perhaps like no other singlespecies, this plant has the potential to help reverse multiple majorenvironmental problems and provide for many unmet human needs.1

What was this mystery plant with over100 different names in multiple languagesaround the world? Moringa oleifera – “themiracle tree” whose leaves alone containseven times the vitamin C of oranges, fourtimes the vitamin A of carrots, four timesthe calcium of milk, more iron thanspinach, three times the potassium of bananas, and twice the protein ofyogurt.2,3 In addition, this vitamin-richplant contains a variety of amino acids, aswell as antioxidants and trace elements.4

The positive attributes of the moringatree do not end with its nutritionalbenefits. In fact, the seed oil fromMoringa oleifera has the highest oxidativestability of any vegetable oil available.Moringa oil also imparts severalfavourable aesthetic properties, such asproviding a rich, cushiony, non-greasyskin-feel with low odour and colour tocosmetic and personal care formulations.4

Ancient history of moringa seed oilMoringa oleifera (Fig. 1) is a floweringtree native to the foothills of theHimalayas in northern India. It iscultivated in many parts of the worldincluding Africa, tropical Americas, SriLanka, Malaysia, and the Philippines.4

Not surprisingly, the moringa tree is knownby many names. In Senegal it is known as nebeday (the tree that never dies)because it is able to survive disasterssuch as fire and it grows quickly (up to 12 metres per year). In the Philippinesthe moringa tree is known as a mother’sbest friend because moringa leaves areused to increase the amount of a

mother’s milk, or are boiled and fed tochildren. In India, the moringa tree is calledthe drumstick tree due to the elongatedshape of its seed pods.2 The moringa treeis also known by various other namesthroughout Africa, Asia, South and Central America, and the Caribbean.5

The use of moringa oil, by ancientEgyptians has been recorded inhieroglyphs. In fact, Egyptologists havedocumented various applications andformulas containing moringa oil for topicalpastes and perfumes.6 Some of thehistorical uses of the moringa plant are shown in Table 1.2,7,8

This profile undoubtedly accounts for the historical therapeutic applicationsof the moringa plant.

Composition andphysiochemical propertiesof moringa oil Moringa seeds yield up to 40% oil by cold extraction. The resulting oil containsalmost 70% oleic triglycerides, which iscomparable to other triglyceride oils suchas olive or canola. However, moringa oilhas a lower iodine value of ~70 g/100 gcompared to ~84 g/100 g for olive oiland ~118 g/100 g for canola oil.4,9 Iodinevalue is one indication of how readily theoil will become rancid due to oxidation.Another indicator of oxidative stability isthe “Oil Stability Index” or OSI. Properlyprepared commercially available moringaoil1 has an unexpectedly high OSI of~133 hours, compared to similarlytreated vegetable oils which have typicalOSI values of ~30 hours. Moringa oil isalso unique in its low free fatty acidcontent. Free fatty acids can be irritatingto the skin. Moringa oil has an acid value of less than 1 mg KOH/g.4

Unsaponifiable substances, which

Moringa butter: ancientbotanical in modern form

ABSTRACT

Moringa butter is derived from the oil ofthe seeds of Moringa oleifera, a treenative to India. Moringa butter may infercertain skin benefits, when incorporatedinto hair and skin care products. Clinicaldata indicate that moringa butterenhances skin barrier recovery frombarrier damage as well as increases skinhydration. The increase in skin hydrationwas also correlated with consumerperception of skin moisture.

Figure 1: Moringa oleifera tree (above)and the seeds below.

Moringa butter is derived from the oil ofthe seeds of Moringa oleifera, a tree native to India. Moringa butter may infer certain skin benefits, when incorporated into hair and skin care products. Clinical data indicate that moringa butter enhances skin barrier recovery from barrier damage as well as increases skin hydration. The increase in skin hydration was also correlated with consumer perception of skin moisture.


Morninga Butter Continued:oil will become rancid due to oxidation. Another indicator of oxidative stability is the “Oil Stability Index” or OSI. Properly prepared commercially available moringa oil1 has an unexpectedly high OSI of ~133 hours, compared to similarly treated vegetable oils which have typical OSI values of ~30 hours. Moringa oil is also unique in its low free fatty acid content. Free fatty acids can be irritating to the skin. Moringa oil has an acid value of less than 1 mg KOH/g.4

Unsaponifiable substances, which include tocopherols and sterols, generally range from 0.7%-1.1% in vegetable oils.5 The sterol portion in moringa oil has a high content of beta-sitosterol.4,10 Beta-sitosterol is known for its antiinflammatory effect and its restorative properties which help to support the skin hydrolipid barrier.4,11 This may be why moringa oil is increasingly used and valued in cosmetics such as anti-age creams, soaps, liquid soaps, body washes, deodorants, and face creams.13

An Uncommon Butter

Butters of vegetable oils are increasingly common to the cosmetic industry. They are typically made by partially hydrogenating common vegetable oils. In contrast, moringa butter is made by interesterifying moringa oil and fully hydrogenated moringa oil, thus preserving the natural cis configuration of each double bond. The result is a butter with no trans fats. Moringa butter is also odourless and less greasy, tacky, and glossy than most butters, notably shea, and can contribute to strength in stick systems. It is also extremely oxidatively stable with an even lower iodine value. The acid value also remains less than 1 mg KOH/g. Moringa butter is easy to work with because of its melting point of 50°C to 55°C.

In order to test the potential benefit of moringa butter in a formulation, small clinical studies were carried out investigating moringa butter’s benefit on skin barrier recovery and skin hydration, as well as consumer perception of various product attributes. The clinical results show that the moringa butter is indeed beneficial to the skin.13

Skin Barrier RecoveryA simple lotion formulation with and without 2% moringa butter (Floralipids Moringa Butter, INCI: Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Floratech, Chandler, AZ) was tested against the same lotion formulation containing 5% petrolatum (positive control because of its known occlusion properties) in order to ascertain the benefits on skin barrier recovery due to damage by a known skin irritant, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was used to measure the recovery of the skin barrier in a doubleblind, randomised, in vivo clinical study. TEWL was determined using a Tewameter TM300 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) on normal, untreated forearm skin (baseline). The forearms were then exposed to a 0.3% solution (w/w) of SLS for approximately 18 hours under occlusion using 19 mm Hill Top Chambers (Hill Top Research, Cincinnati, Ohio). TEWL measurements were again made 30 minutes following chamber removal and the percentage increase from baseline was determined. The forearms were then treated hourly with the above mentioned lotion formulations, followed by additional TEWL measurements an hour after each application. The percentage barrier recovery was then determined relative to the baseline values. The results show that after two applications, the formulation containing 2% moringa butter resulted in 67% barrier recovery compared to the formulation without which only resulted in 21% barrier recovery, p<0.05 (Fig. 2). There was no statistically significant difference between the 2% moringa butter formula and the 5% petrolatum formula (positive control, which resulted in 79% barrier recovery).

NATURALS

Reprinted from June 2011 PERSONAL CARE 3

include tocopherols and sterols, generallyrange from 0.7%-1.1% in vegetable oils.5

The sterol portion in moringa oil has a high content of beta-sitosterol.4,10

Beta-sitosterol is known for its anti-inflammatory effect and its restorativeproperties which help to support the skinhydrolipid barrier.4,11 This may be whymoringa oil is increasingly used andvalued in cosmetics such as anti-agecreams, soaps, liquid soaps, bodywashes, deodorants, and face creams.13

An uncommon butterButters of vegetable oils are increasinglycommon to the cosmetic industry. They are typically made by partiallyhydrogenating common vegetable oils. In contrast, moringa butter is made byinteresterifying moringa oil and fullyhydrogenated moringa oil, thus preservingthe natural cis configuration of eachdouble bond. The result is a butter withno trans fats. Moringa butter is alsoodourless and less greasy, tacky, andglossy than most butters, notably shea,and can contribute to strength in sticksystems. It is also extremely oxidativelystable with an even lower iodine value.The acid value also remains less than 1 mg KOH/g. Moringa butter is easy towork with because of its melting point of 50˚C to 55˚C.

In order to test the potential benefit of moringa butter in a formulation, small clinical studies were carried outinvestigating moringa butter’s benefit onskin barrier recovery and skin hydration, as well as consumer perception of variousproduct attributes. The clinical resultsshow that the moringa butter is indeedbeneficial to the skin.13

Skin barrier recovery A simple lotion formulation with andwithout 2% moringa butter (FloralipidsMoringa Butter, INCI: MoringaOil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters,Floratech, Chandler, AZ) was testedagainst the same lotion formulationcontaining 5% petrolatum (positive control because of its known occlusion

properties) in order to ascertain thebenefits on skin barrier recovery due todamage by a known skin irritant, sodiumlauryl sulfate (SLS). Transepidermal waterloss (TEWL) was used to measure therecovery of the skin barrier in a double-blind, randomised, in vivo clinical study.TEWL was determined using a TewameterTM300 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne,Germany) on normal, untreated forearmskin (baseline). The forearms were thenexposed to a 0.3% solution (w/w) of SLS for approximately 18 hours underocclusion using 19 mm Hill Top Chambers(Hill Top Research, Cincinnati, Ohio). TEWL measurements were again made 30 minutes following chamber removal and the percentage increase from baselinewas determined. The forearms were thentreated hourly with the above mentionedlotion formulations, followed by additionalTEWL measurements an hour after eachapplication. The percentage barrier recoverywas then determined relative to thebaseline values. The results show that aftertwo applications, the formulation containing2% moringa butter resulted in 67% barrier

recovery compared to the formulationwithout which only resulted in 21% barrierrecovery, p<0.05 (Fig. 2). There was nostatistically significant difference betweenthe 2% moringa butter formula and the 5% petrolatum formula (positive control,which resulted in 79% barrier recovery).

Skin hydration Various butters (moringa, shea, olive, andcocoa) were incorporated into anhydrousstick formulations at 10% and tested for skin hydration using a Corneometer CM 825 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne,Germany) in a double-blind, randomised,vehicle controlled, in vivo clinical study. The results show that after one applicationof the test articles, the formulationcontaining 10% moringa butter increasedskin hydration at every time point up tofour hours, far better than any of the otherbutter-containing test articles, p<0.05 (Fig. 3). The anhydrous stick containing the moringa butter produced a peak skinhydration increase of 55%, which was more than double the skin hydrationproduced by any of the other test articles.

Consumer perception A double-blind, randomised comparativestudy using two anhydrous stickformulations containing 10% moringabutter and 10% shea butter, respectively,was conducted by 31 female consumersfor various product aesthetics includingsuch attributes as absorbency,spreadability, moisturisation, and non-greasiness. In all cases the formulationcontaining 10% moringa butter waspreferred over the formulation containing10% shea butter (Fig. 4). In terms of“overall” preference, the formula containingthe 10% moringa butter was preferred five to one over the formula containing the 10% shea butter.

Conclusion Moringa butter is derived from the seed oil of Moringa oleifera, a tree native to the Himalayan region of northern India. The moringa tree’s various parts have beenused for centuries for their natural healingbenefits. Clinical results show that themoringa butter is indeed beneficial to theskin. In addition, a consumer panel wasable to perceive differences in importantproduct attributes when comparing aformulation containing moringa butter withthe same formulation containing anothermarketed butter.13 Moringa butter can beincluded within formulations in the samemanner as other butters, with muchenhanced formulation capabilities, such asenhanced aesthetic and increased productstability. Moringa butter is truly a modernday miracle from pre-antiquity. PC

Table 1: Medicinal uses for the moringa tree.

Plant part Medicinal applications

Roots Anti-inflammatory, blood circulatory stimulator, and laxative

Bark Eye and spleen diseases, delirium, tumors, and ulcers

Leaves Soothing agent for sores, headaches, eye and ear infections, and as a laxative

Rubber Astringent for healing tooth decay

Flowers Treat inflammation, muscular pain, and tumors

Seeds Antibiotic

Pods Hypertensive effect

Oil Included in paste for topical oral and skin treatments

Figure 2: Average percentage barrierrecovery (TEWL).

Bar

rier

rec

over

y –

rela

tive

to

base

line

(%)

80

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

0Vehicle Vehicle +

2% moringabutter

Positivecontrol

NATURALS

Reprinted from June 2011 PERSONAL CARE 3

include tocopherols and sterols, generallyrange from 0.7%-1.1% in vegetable oils.5

The sterol portion in moringa oil has a high content of beta-sitosterol.4,10

Beta-sitosterol is known for its anti-inflammatory effect and its restorativeproperties which help to support the skinhydrolipid barrier.4,11 This may be whymoringa oil is increasingly used andvalued in cosmetics such as anti-agecreams, soaps, liquid soaps, bodywashes, deodorants, and face creams.13

An uncommon butterButters of vegetable oils are increasinglycommon to the cosmetic industry. They are typically made by partiallyhydrogenating common vegetable oils. In contrast, moringa butter is made byinteresterifying moringa oil and fullyhydrogenated moringa oil, thus preservingthe natural cis configuration of eachdouble bond. The result is a butter withno trans fats. Moringa butter is alsoodourless and less greasy, tacky, andglossy than most butters, notably shea,and can contribute to strength in sticksystems. It is also extremely oxidativelystable with an even lower iodine value.The acid value also remains less than 1 mg KOH/g. Moringa butter is easy towork with because of its melting point of 50˚C to 55˚C.

In order to test the potential benefit of moringa butter in a formulation, small clinical studies were carried outinvestigating moringa butter’s benefit onskin barrier recovery and skin hydration, as well as consumer perception of variousproduct attributes. The clinical resultsshow that the moringa butter is indeedbeneficial to the skin.13

Skin barrier recovery A simple lotion formulation with andwithout 2% moringa butter (FloralipidsMoringa Butter, INCI: MoringaOil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters,Floratech, Chandler, AZ) was testedagainst the same lotion formulationcontaining 5% petrolatum (positive control because of its known occlusion

properties) in order to ascertain thebenefits on skin barrier recovery due todamage by a known skin irritant, sodiumlauryl sulfate (SLS). Transepidermal waterloss (TEWL) was used to measure therecovery of the skin barrier in a double-blind, randomised, in vivo clinical study.TEWL was determined using a TewameterTM300 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne,Germany) on normal, untreated forearmskin (baseline). The forearms were thenexposed to a 0.3% solution (w/w) of SLS for approximately 18 hours underocclusion using 19 mm Hill Top Chambers(Hill Top Research, Cincinnati, Ohio). TEWL measurements were again made 30 minutes following chamber removal and the percentage increase from baselinewas determined. The forearms were thentreated hourly with the above mentionedlotion formulations, followed by additionalTEWL measurements an hour after eachapplication. The percentage barrier recoverywas then determined relative to thebaseline values. The results show that aftertwo applications, the formulation containing2% moringa butter resulted in 67% barrier

recovery compared to the formulationwithout which only resulted in 21% barrierrecovery, p<0.05 (Fig. 2). There was nostatistically significant difference betweenthe 2% moringa butter formula and the 5% petrolatum formula (positive control,which resulted in 79% barrier recovery).

Skin hydration Various butters (moringa, shea, olive, andcocoa) were incorporated into anhydrousstick formulations at 10% and tested for skin hydration using a Corneometer CM 825 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne,Germany) in a double-blind, randomised,vehicle controlled, in vivo clinical study. The results show that after one applicationof the test articles, the formulationcontaining 10% moringa butter increasedskin hydration at every time point up tofour hours, far better than any of the otherbutter-containing test articles, p<0.05 (Fig. 3). The anhydrous stick containing the moringa butter produced a peak skinhydration increase of 55%, which was more than double the skin hydrationproduced by any of the other test articles.

Consumer perception A double-blind, randomised comparativestudy using two anhydrous stickformulations containing 10% moringabutter and 10% shea butter, respectively,was conducted by 31 female consumersfor various product aesthetics includingsuch attributes as absorbency,spreadability, moisturisation, and non-greasiness. In all cases the formulationcontaining 10% moringa butter waspreferred over the formulation containing10% shea butter (Fig. 4). In terms of“overall” preference, the formula containingthe 10% moringa butter was preferred five to one over the formula containing the 10% shea butter.

Conclusion Moringa butter is derived from the seed oil of Moringa oleifera, a tree native to the Himalayan region of northern India. The moringa tree’s various parts have beenused for centuries for their natural healingbenefits. Clinical results show that themoringa butter is indeed beneficial to theskin. In addition, a consumer panel wasable to perceive differences in importantproduct attributes when comparing aformulation containing moringa butter withthe same formulation containing anothermarketed butter.13 Moringa butter can beincluded within formulations in the samemanner as other butters, with muchenhanced formulation capabilities, such asenhanced aesthetic and increased productstability. Moringa butter is truly a modernday miracle from pre-antiquity. PC

Table 1: Medicinal uses for the moringa tree.

Plant part Medicinal applications

Roots Anti-inflammatory, blood circulatory stimulator, and laxative

Bark Eye and spleen diseases, delirium, tumors, and ulcers

Leaves Soothing agent for sores, headaches, eye and ear infections, and as a laxative

Rubber Astringent for healing tooth decay

Flowers Treat inflammation, muscular pain, and tumors

Seeds Antibiotic

Pods Hypertensive effect

Oil Included in paste for topical oral and skin treatments

Figure 2: Average percentage barrierrecovery (TEWL).

Bar

rier

rec

over

y –

rela

tive

to

base

line

(%)

80

70

60

50

40

30

20

10

0Vehicle Vehicle +

2% moringabutter

Positivecontrol

You need more information about our products?Please contact our subsidiary SILAB Inc.:email: [email protected]: 732-335-1030

SILAB creates and manufactures unique, consistently safe, naturalactive ingredients with proven efficacy.


1-800-621-0500 | coastsouthwest.com

Olivatis™ is a family of high-performing natural emulsifiers from Coast Southwest.

These novel ingredients are derived from olive oil. They impart a luxurious skin feel and elegant texture while providing stability to the finished product.

Cosmet ic Sc ience, Na tu ra l l y.

To learn more, visit coastsouthwest.com/olivatis

PEG-free


NATURALS


References1 NIH Celebrates Earth Day 2008. NIH (National

Institutes of Health) Record, LX (6), 3 March2008. Web (accessed 13 April 2011).www.nihrecord.od.nih.gov/newsletters/2008/03_21_2008/story4.htm

2 Price ML. The moringa tree echo technical note (l985; last revision 2007). Web (accessed13 April 2011). www.echonet.org/repositories#110:d:TheMoringaTree

3 Gopalan C, Rama BV Sastri, BalasubramanianSC. Nutritive value of Indian foods. Hyderabad,India: (National Institute of Nutrition), 1971.(Revised and updated by Narasinga-Rao BS,Deosthale YG, Pant KC – 1989).

4 Rigano L, Andolfatto C, Radice A. Moringa seedoil – the new soul of cosmetics. SOFW Journal2011; 137 (3), 48-54.

5 Names for Moringa. Trees for Life International.Web (accessed 13 April 2011).[treesforlife.org/moringa/names]

6 Manniche L. “Moringa” – An ancient Egyptianherbal. Austin, TX: Second University of TexasPress printing, 1989, 122-3.

7 Sabale V, Patel V, Paranjape A, Arya C, Sakarkar SN, Sabale PM. Moringa oleifera(drumstick): An overview. Pharmacognosy Rev(Supp); 2 (4): 7-13.

8 Armand-Stussi I, Basocak V, Pauly G, andMcCaulley J. Moringa oleifera: An interestingsource of active ingredients for skin and haircare, SOFW Journal 2011; 129 (9), 45-52.

9 Wanasundara UN, Shahidi F. Canola extract as an alternative natural antioxidant for canola oil. J Am Oil Chem Soc 1994; 71 (8):817-22.

10 Hamza AA. Curcuma longa, Glycyrrhiza glabraand Moringa oleifera – Ameliorate diclofenac-induced hepatoxicity in rats. Am J PharmacolToxicol 2007; 2 (2): 80-8.

11 Gopta MB, Nath R, Srivastava N, Shanker K,Kishor K, Bhargava KP. Anti-inflammatory andantipyretic activities of beta-sitosterol. PlantaMed 1980; 39 (6), 157-63.

12 Moringa. Grenera Nutrients. Web (accessed 13 April 2011). www.moringaoil.com/applications.

13 Floratech Final Reports 10-032 and 10-033.

Figure 3: Average percentage change in skin hydration.

Figure 4: Average percentage consumer preference.

Hyd

rati

on c

hang

e fr

om b

asel

ine

(%)

60

50

40

30

20

10

0

–10

Vehicle stick + 10% moringa butter

Vehicle stick + 10% shea butter

Vehicle stick + 10% Cocoa butter

Vehicle stick + 10% Olive butter

Vehicle stick

0.5 1 2 3 4

Time (hours)

Overall preference

Spreadability

Payout

Non-greasy

Moisturisation

Smoothness

Absorbency

Less sticky

80%

60%

40%

20%

10% moringa butter

10% shea butter

Morninga Butter Continued:

Skin HydrationVarious butters (moringa, shea, olive, and cocoa) were incorporated into anhydrous stick formulations at 10% and tested for skin hydration using a Corneometer CM 825 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) in a double-blind, randomised, vehicle controlled, in vivo clinical study. The results show that after one application of the test articles, the formulation containing 10% moringa butter increased skin hydration at every time point up to four hours, far better than any of the other butter-containing test articles, p<0.05 (Fig. 3). The anhydrous stick containing the moringa butter produced a peak skin hydration increase of 55%, which was more than double the skin hydration produced by any of the other test articles.

Consumer PerceptionTA double-blind, randomised comparative study using two anhydrous stick formulations containing 10% moringa butter and 10% shea butter, respectively, was conducted by 31 female consumers for various product aesthetics including such attributes as absorbency, spreadability, moisturisation, and nongreasiness. In all cases the formulation containing 10% moringa butter was preferred over the formulation containing 10% shea butter (Fig. 4). In terms of “overall” preference, the formula containing the 10% moringa butter was preferred five to one over the formula containing the 10% shea butter.

Conclusion

Moringa butter is derived from the seed oil of Moringa oleifera, a tree native to the Himalayan region of northern India. The moringa tree’s various parts have been used for centuries for their natural healing benefits. Clinical results show that the moringa butter is indeed beneficial to the skin. In addition, a consumer panel was able to perceive differences in important product attributes when comparing a formulation containing moringa butter with the same formulation containing another marketed butter.13 Moringa butter can be included within formulations in the same manner as other butters, with much enhanced formulation capabilities, such as enhanced aesthetic and increased product stability. Moringa butter is truly a modern day miracle from pre-antiquity.

Bioengineeringthe best active cosmetic ingredients since 1946

[email protected]

NATURALS


References1 NIH Celebrates Earth Day 2008. NIH (National

Institutes of Health) Record, LX (6), 3 March2008. Web (accessed 13 April 2011).www.nihrecord.od.nih.gov/newsletters/2008/03_21_2008/story4.htm

2 Price ML. The moringa tree echo technical note (l985; last revision 2007). Web (accessed13 April 2011). www.echonet.org/repositories#110:d:TheMoringaTree

3 Gopalan C, Rama BV Sastri, BalasubramanianSC. Nutritive value of Indian foods. Hyderabad,India: (National Institute of Nutrition), 1971.(Revised and updated by Narasinga-Rao BS,Deosthale YG, Pant KC – 1989).

4 Rigano L, Andolfatto C, Radice A. Moringa seedoil – the new soul of cosmetics. SOFW Journal2011; 137 (3), 48-54.

5 Names for Moringa. Trees for Life International.Web (accessed 13 April 2011).[treesforlife.org/moringa/names]

6 Manniche L. “Moringa” – An ancient Egyptianherbal. Austin, TX: Second University of TexasPress printing, 1989, 122-3.

7 Sabale V, Patel V, Paranjape A, Arya C, Sakarkar SN, Sabale PM. Moringa oleifera(drumstick): An overview. Pharmacognosy Rev(Supp); 2 (4): 7-13.

8 Armand-Stussi I, Basocak V, Pauly G, andMcCaulley J. Moringa oleifera: An interestingsource of active ingredients for skin and haircare, SOFW Journal 2011; 129 (9), 45-52.


10 Hamza AA. Curcuma longa, Glycyrrhiza glabraand Moringa oleifera – Ameliorate diclofenac-induced hepatoxicity in rats. Am J PharmacolToxicol 2007; 2 (2): 80-8.

11 Gopta MB, Nath R, Srivastava N, Shanker K,Kishor K, Bhargava KP. Anti-inflammatory andantipyretic activities of beta-sitosterol. PlantaMed 1980; 39 (6), 157-63.



Figure 3: Average percentage change in skin hydration.

Figure 4: Average percentage consumer preference.

Hyd

rati

on c

hang

e fr

om b

asel

ine

(%)

60

50

40

30

20

10

0

–10

Vehicle stick + 10% moringa butter

Vehicle stick + 10% shea butter

Vehicle stick + 10% Cocoa butter

Vehicle stick + 10% Olive butter

Vehicle stick

0.5 1 2 3 4

Time (hours)

Overall preference

Spreadability

Payout

Non-greasy

Moisturisation

Smoothness

Absorbency

Less sticky

80%

60%

40%

20%

10% moringa butter

10% shea butter


• Argan Oil• Red Palm Oil• Sweet Almond

Oil• Jojoba Oil

• Tea Tree Oil• Natural Silicone

Alternative• Natural Lanolin

Alternative

High demand personal care ingredients to inspire you.

Find more info at www.charkit.com

References1 NIH Celebrates Earth Day 2008. NIH (National Institutes of Health) Record, LX (6), 3 March 2008. Web (accessed 13 April 2011). www.nihrecord.od.nih.gov/newsletters/2008/03_21_2008/story4.htm

2 Price ML. The moringa tree echo technical note (l985; last revision 2007). Web (accessed 13 April 2011). www.echonet.org/repositories#110:d:TheMoringaTree

3 Gopalan C, Rama BV Sastri, Balasubramanian SC. Nutritive value of Indian foods. Hyderabad, India: (National Institute of Nutrition), 1971. (Revised and updated by Narasinga-Rao BS, Deosthale YG, Pant KC – 1989).

4 Rigano L, Andolfatto C, Radice A. Moringa seed oil – the new soul of cosmetics. SOFW Journal 2011; 137 (3), 48-54.

5 Names for Moringa. Trees for Life International. Web (accessed 13 April 2011). [treesforlife.org/moringa/names]

6 Manniche L. “Moringa” – An ancient Egyptian herbal. Austin, TX: Second University of Texas Press printing, 1989, 122-3.

7 Sabale V, Patel V, Paranjape A, Arya C, Sakarkar SN, Sabale PM. Moringa oleifera (drumstick): An overview. Pharmacognosy Rev (Supp); 2 (4): 7-13.

8 Armand-Stussi I, Basocak V, Pauly G, and McCaulley J. Moringa oleifera: An interesting source of active ingredients for skin and hair care, SOFW Journal 2011; 129 (9), 45-52.


10 Hamza AA. Curcuma longa, Glycyrrhiza glabra and Moringa oleifera – Ameliorate diclofenacinduced hepatoxicity in rats. Am J Pharmacol Toxicol 2007; 2 (2): 80-8.

11 Gopta MB, Nath R, Srivastava N, Shanker K, Kishor K, Bhargava KP. Anti-inflammatory and antipyretic activities of beta-sitosterol. Planta Med 1980; 39 (6), 157-63.



Morninga Butter Continued:

Lipo to become


10 Question Company Spotlight: Mariposa Labswww.mariposalabs.com

1. Company Name?Mariposa Labs LLC

2. Year Established?2001

3. Location(s)?Boise ID

4. Number of Employees and Number of R&D Employees?33 full time employees, 4 R & D Staff

5. Number of Employees that Belong to the SCC?Our Head Chemist & Technical Director is a Member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, but many of us are big fans of the organization!

6. Company Certifications/Capabilities?Mariposa Labs maintains Standard Operating Procedures designed to comply with all relevant sections of Part 210 of the Code of Federal Regulations. We implement significant training and follow up to insure compliance. We are routinely inspected by the FDA, various State and Local government agencies, 3rd party auditors and several large customers for compliance. Mariposa Labs is registered with and inspected by the FDA. We also maintain registrations and permits with the ATF for alcohol use and several state and local entities. Recently, we successfully completed Halal Certification and Gluten Free Certification for several product lines we manufacture.

We can package and label a wide array of jars and bottles, from 0.33 oz to Gallons, as well as fill & crimp tubes, in both plastic and aluminum, as small as 0.33 oz up to 9 oz fill.

7. Types of Products Produced?A very general and brief product capabilities summary: Body Care, Facial Care, Hair Care, Spa Treatment, Massage, Men’s Specialty Products, Baby/Children’s Products, & Pet Products, Perfume & Cologne, Home Care and Fragrance.

8. Name & Position of Person filling out the spotlight?Lisa Swain, Director Of Business Development

9. What is your favorite product your company produces and why?Without question, my favorite product we manufacture is Toe Juice. Wacky, but memorable name and a very effective product for the whole family. Toe Juice cures a wide array of skin issues: Bug bites, rashes, breakouts, athlete’s foot, and ingrown hair, to name a few. I keep several bottles at home and always take one when we travel.

The brand owners first told us that it can fix most everything, much like Windex in the movie My Big Fat Greek Wedding. And they were right! Any skin related injury, bug bite or ailment and the first thing we say is “you should put Toe Juice on it! “ https://www.toejuice.com/

10. What makes your company unique, why should clients work with you above anyone else?Our primary goal is to operate a safe and ethical factory while producing great products for our customers. We aim to never lose a customer we want to keep and to never chase big customers or product lines that would strain our capacity to perform. Our unique capabilities lie within our employees and our overall company culture. We make sound hiring decisions and have a very high employee retention rate. Our employees are committed to us and our customers’ satisfaction. We retain customers and develop partnerships by focusing on overhead, staff efficiency, teamwork, a tight product, customer focus, and outstanding customer service. Our most unique strategy is that every aspect of our planning involves flexibility for our customers: we focus on hiring flexible employees, purchasing flexible equipment, and maintaining flexible schedules. At the end of the day, we really do keep our customers happy. We have the ability to do both large and small production runs. A combination of large and small production runs actually complements us very well, it allows us to fully utilize our equipment and fulltime personnel.

By: Lisa Swain

GRANDSEMINAR

November 5, 2015Salt Lake City,

Utah


ScheduleWednesday8:00am – Breakfast, registration, & check-in

9:00am – Announcements & quarter sponsor remarks

9:15am – David Steinberg, Regulatory Affairs

10:15am – Break

10:30am – Nick Morante, Colorant Basics for Cosmetics

11:45pm – Lunch

Thursday7:30am – Breakfast, registration, & check-in

8:30am – Shotgun start

12:00pm – Lunch & prizes

Thanks for your attendance!

TnTIMWSCC 3rd Quarter Meeting

September 9-10, 2015

Zermatt ResortMidway, Utah


Presenters for TnTDavid SteinbergFounderSteinberg & Associates

In 1995 David Steinberg founded Steinberg & Associates, a consult-ing firm for the Cosmetic industry, specializing in the Chemistry of Cosmetic Ingredients, Preservatives and preservation, International and US regulations, domestic and inter-national labeling of cosmetics and cosmetic drugs; and marketing of ingredients. He is an expert witness in patent, business issues and injury

cases dealing in the personal care area.

In 2006, Mr. Steinberg founded the Cosmetic Preservative Council and is the Executive Director. In 2008 , he found-ed Report Reaction, LLC to assist clients in complying with new FDA OTC labeling requirements.

David is the founder of the Master’s Degree Program in Cosmetic Sciences at Fairleigh Dickinson University. He also earned a Bachelor of Science in Chemistry from Drexel University and an MBA Management degree from Pace University.

Mr. Steinberg’s robust history with the Society of Cosmetic Chemists in-cludes appointments as the New York Chapter Chair in 1979, Treasurer of the National organiza-tion in 1987 & 1988, and SCC National President in 1991. He also received the SCC Merit Award in 1985, and was elected an SCC Fellow in 1987.

David is a member of the American Chemical Society, Regulatory Af-fairs Professional Soci-ety, Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and Praesidi-um: International Fed-eration of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists.

Nature’s Science.

™

Your Beauty.

Our Technology.

www.ajiaminobeauty.com

by

Nick MoranteSenior ChemistIFC Solutions

Nick Morante is currently a Senior Chemist at IFC Solutions (formerly International Foodcraft) in New Jer-sey where he works with many types of colors and additives for both the food and cosmetics industries utilizing them in many different applications. He has over 40 years of experience in the formulation of cosmetics, personal care products and makeup products. Prior to joining IFC, Nick was a con-

sultant to the cosmetics industry for over 10 years providing custom formulations for clients as well as giving presentations and seminars to various companies and organizations within the cosmetics industry providing guidance in the practical use of color in consumer products. He is current an adjunct faculty member at Fairleigh Dickinson University’s School of Natural Sciences in Hackensack, NJ where he is an instructor in the Master of Science Program in Cosmetic Science.

Nick also spent over 30 years Research and Development at The Estée Lauder Companies where he was both a formulator and laboratory manager in the corporate makeup and hair care departments. He was also in charge of the Color Science Laboratory where he was responsible for color measurement and spectrophotometric analysis of finished products, ingredi-ents and human skin as it relates to color that is used in vari-ous cosmetic products, as well as developing testing protocols and methodologies for many color applications.

Nick holds a Bachelor of Science degree from The New York Institute of Technology. He has taken numerous continuing education courses in the area of cosmetic science. He is a long time member of The Society of Cosmetic Chemists and has been active both on the local and national levels having served on the executive committee for the Long Island Chapter and on the National Board, serving as Area Director and National Secretary. He has been elected a Fellow of the Society and is an instructor for the Society’s Continuing Education Program (CEP) Program in the area of color and makeup formulation and troubleshooting.

He has given many seminars and presentations worldwide. He has been awarded numerous patents and has contributed many articles and papers and authored chapters to numerous cosmetic, technical and beauty publications and texts.


Client: HornDescription: IMWSCC AdProduction: February 2015Insertion: February 2015

19000 MacArthur Boulevard, Floor 8, Irvine, CA 92612Creative Direction: Paul Kokinakes I [email protected]: Hannah Bergan I [email protected]

Ad Size: 7” x 5”Bleed: n/aColor: 4/COutput: 100%

[email protected] • 800.442.4676 • www.ethorn.com

HORN Care Elements caters to the personal care, hair care, skin care, cosmetics, home care, industrial and institutional (HI&I) cleaning, fragrances and air care industries. Represented by seasoned experts, HORN Care Elements services its principals and customers by providing unmatched formulation expertise, problem-solving capabilities and superior customer service.

HORN orchestrates success. Challenge us and let us know how we can help.

HORN pROudly REpREsENts:Abitec Corp.Air productsBayer MaterialscienceCabot Corp.Cargill Fragrance West

Grain processing Corp.Impact Colors, Inc. J.M. Huber Corp.Momentive performance productsMulticerasNatural sourcing, llC

IMWSCC Horn CE 7x5 Ad.indd 1 2/27/15 11:51 AM


Summary of May MeetingWe don’t choose theme songs for our SCC meetings but, if we did, I would choose “Here Comes the Sun” by the Beatles for our May meeting.

The morning started out a bit cloudy and rainy at the Thanksgiving Point Gardens. We listened to two speakers. Joy from Integrity spoke about a plant-based SPF boosters. Interestingly enough, some plants have chemical components similar in structure to OMC and avobenzone. (I may have to find these plants and buy them. Way cool). Brooke from Kemin spoke about oregano, how it grows and its potential preservation properties in cosmetics. I guess Oregano isn’t just for spaghetti sauce. Nature really is smart and efficient.

After the speakers and a yummy Mexican lunch, the sun came out and we were able to tour the gardens. Having the meeting at the gardens seemed to be in line with our talks about plant cosmetic actives. Thanks Integrity for sponsoring our meeting.

Kelsey Larsen: [email protected]

By: Kelsey Larsen


IMWSCC would like to thank our Third Quarter Meeting Sponsors:

AAKLIPSCOMB

IMWSCC Board Industry Insider 1 7 Magleby’s in ... · Why the EWG Skin Deep Database is Still a...

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