ICE-TDB Textile Training course ( 15-20 march 2010, Suzhou)
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Transcript of ICE-TDB Textile Training course ( 15-20 march 2010, Suzhou)
ICE-TDBTextile Training course
(15-20 march 2010, Suzhou)
Industrial policy for
Textile and Fashion Industry
Table of contents
1. General framework
2. Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘90s
3. Industrial policy for competitive framework and companies’ networks in the 2000s
4. Industrial policy for the next future
Milan - Italy tel. +39 0264119.1 - fax. +39 026610.3667-70
[email protected] - www.sistemamodaitalia.com
CONFINDUSTRIA MEMBER
General framework
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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
WHO WE ARE
SMI – Sistema Moda Italia (Italian Textile and Fashion Federation) is one of the world’s
largest organizations representing the textile and fashion industry.
The Federation protects and promotes the interests of the sector and its members.
Sistema Moda Italia represents the entire supply chain on a national and international level and is the official interlocutor in relations with Italian and international institutions and organizations.
Sistema Moda Italia maintains relations with government agencies, public administration, and with economic, political, labor, and social organizations.
As the national federation for the category, it is composed, on a voluntary basis, of both companies and associations and is well established throughout Italy.
SMI is a member of Confindustria, the Confederation of the Italian industrial companies.
SMI is also the most important founding member of Euratex, the European Association of Textile and Clothing Manufacturers.
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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
WHO WE ARE
Sistema Moda Italia closely follows the development and changes underway
in the textile and fashion industry and assists the Italian companies in the
sector through exclusive representation and a wide range of services and
activities.
The Federation therefore helps the industry solve problems regarding
production, technical and legal aspects, and economic and commercial issues.
Deeply committed to the development and growth of every area of the textile
and fashion industry, SMI also deals with market aspects, promotional
activities, and internationalization processes.
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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
THE COMPANIES AND THE MARKET
Sistema Moda Italia, as national federation,
represents a sector, with 500,000 employees and
nearly 50,000 companies, that is a mainstay of Italy’s
economy and manufacturing industry.
The overall national turnover of approximately 50
billion euros represents more than 25% of the entire
European turnover and is a significant portion of the
active balance of trade in Italy.
SMI, with its 2,000 member companies, offers a
complete panorama of the Italian textile and fashion
industry.
-8-
SMI members and the entire textile & fashion sector
TURNOVER 50%
EMPLOYEES20%
COMPANIES 3%
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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
AREAS AND SERVICES
Sistema Moda Italia, which is committed to making the textile
and fashion sector one of the most important economic
resources of Italian industry, is divided into these Areas and
Services:
- Federation Business and Membership Development
- Industrial Policies, Economy and Enterprise
- Europe and International Trade Regulations
- Labor Relations and Training
- Research Center
- International Promotion
- Supply Chain Relations
- Legal Affairs
- Technology and Environment
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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
FEDERATION BUSINESS AND MEMBERSHIP DEVELOPMENT
SMI coordinates and manages the relationship between the
Federation and other confederations to improve institutional
representation of the sector. It promotes activities to develop
membership and to better interpret company needs. It creates the
best conditions for promoting Federation activities and services
within the system. It systematically monitors company needs and
supplies services designed to support company growth in an ever-
evolving market.
INDUSTRIAL POLICIES, ECONOMY AND ENTERPRISE
To ensure the competitiveness of the textile and fashion industry,
SMI studies and promotes sector policies in Italy and the European
Community. It also promotes specific policies for the industry on local
and regional levels. It analyzes and monitors laws regarding taxes,
finance, and business. It also makes proposals to encourage product
and process innovation.
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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
EUROPE AND INTERNATIONAL TRADE REGULATIONS
SMI protects the interests of the sector in the European Community and abroad by remaining in close, continuous contact with supranational government agencies, associations, and organizations.
It monitors and encourages fair trade and participates in EC projects designed to develop trade policies and improve the competitiveness of the industry.
LABOR RELATIONS AND EDUCATION
SMI represents the sector during negotiations and stipulation of the national labor contract. It protects the interests of the sector in all issues pertaining to industrial relations and labor laws.
Labor and Social Security
SMI provides members with up-to-the-minute information, consulting, and assistance in interpreting and applying the national labor contract and all the laws concerning labor, social security, and welfare. It also organizes seminars on separate issues that are particularly important to the sector.
Education
SMI provides members and training centers with data and updates on sector needs and on the offer available to companies on a national level. It furnishes updated information on special financing and facilitations available to companies.
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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
RESEARCH CENTER
SMI closely monitors statistics and the most important macro and microeconomic variables to support the strategic vision of the Federation and its members, processing data and information to assist in the decision-making process. It supplies all official statistics to government agencies, the media, and trade fair organizations. It promotes entrepreneurship culture through publications and studies for various sectors in the textile-fashion system.
INTERNATIONAL PROMOTION
SMI’s goal is to support and strengthen the international reputation of its member companies abroad, through promotional activities that highlight the creativity, high quality and innovation which set apart Italy from the rest of the world. SMI develops and implements initiatives aimed specifically at our target markets in the European Community and around the world, developing and applying effective strategies and tools, including market research, exploratory missions, arranging for new buyers to visit Italy, actions to support industry promotion abroad, workshops and trade fair events.
The SMI Office in Shanghai – It coordinates the SMI branch in Shanghai, whose mission is to strengthen the Italian presence in China, by promoting dialogue and partnership between upstream and downstream sectors in the Italian and Chinese textile and fashion supply chain, thus creating business opportunities for textile companies.
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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
SUPPLY CHAIN RELATIONS
SMI coordinates actions and events for the industry and for its areas and
product groups and promotes cooperation and exchange of information
and knowledge between member companies in every category
represented by the Federation, with the aim to increase their synergies.
LEGAL AFFAIRS
SMI provides legal assistance regarding intellectual property and
counterfeiting, contracts with sales agents and, in general, supports in
drafting of commercial agreements. It also provides information and
updates on the latest laws concerning these aspects.
TECHNOLOGY AND ENVIRONMENT
SMI studies the latest technological and regulatory developments to
anticipate new eco-compatible industrial processes and the development
of laws and procedures with a low environmental impact. It organizes
special seminars and conferences studying these new developments. It
also constantly monitors existing laws on the subject.
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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
ORGANIZATION: SECTIONS
Sistema Moda Italia has grouped its members into 8 Sections, which represent all product categories in the system:
A. Spinning and preparatory processes
B. Weaving
C. Textile finishing
D. Home linen
E. Knitwear
F. Lingerie, underwear and hosiery
G. Clothing
H. Miscellaneous textiles and components
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SISTEMA MODA ITALIA
ORGANIZATION: GROUPS
The sections are, in turn, divided into 27 product Groups, which include businesses working in the same production sectors:
A. Cotton and wool spinning
B. Weaving (furnishing fabrics, apparel fabrics, knitted fabrics)
C. Knitted and woven fabrics dyeing, yarns dyeing, photo-engraving, printing
D. Contract/Hospitality
E. Knitwear for women and men
F. Lingerie, underwear and beachwear, men’s and women’s hosiery
G. Men’s, women’s, and children’s clothing, work outfits, shirting, ties and scarves, bridalwear and formalwear
H. Buttons and components, material for medication, raw cotton, sewing threads
All the events and activities of the industry, sections, and groups aim at intensifying joint efforts and the dialogue between companies on issues of broad and/or specific interest for each product category.
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YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS GROUP
SMI’s Young Entrepreneurs Group was established as a meeting place for young entrepreneurs of the textile and fashion industry with common experiences.
Through constructive discussion and with the final objective of protecting and promoting sector activities, the Group intends to encourage the training of young entrepreneurs, their participation in the association, and their insertion in the system.
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YOUNG ENTREPRENEURS GROUP
It also aims to promote awareness of the ethical and social purpose of free enterprise and the importance of membership in the association.
Entrepreneurs between 18 and 40 years of age can have access to this group.
Italian Textile-Fashion IndustryDetailing the specifications:
Manufacturing sector >> export Complete pipeline Industrial districts SMEs - Small and medium
enterprises (480.000 empl. and 50.000 companies: 10 empl./comp.)
Italian T&F Industry: a complete pipeline
Fibres Industry
Spinning
Weaving
Finishing
Knitting Clothing
Textile Machinery Industry
Textile Chemical Industry
Retail
Final Consumer
Home-textile
Production: industrial districts
many SMEs located in many Industrial Districts spread around Italy
many parallel processes made on small scales
(NO: sequential processes made on large scales)
Complex Adaptive Systemcharacterised by Incremental Innovation,
Flexibility and Quick-Response
Within the Industrial Districts
external economies of scale:social sense of belonging, contextual knowledge,
specialisation and informal integration
fragmentation is recomposed
Fashion in the first period of modern era Very large diffusion in the population; big market
- but geographically segmented; Answering to a need of identification, more than
distinction; Absorbing an industrial “push”; Permitting large productions of standardized
items; With a product life cycle frequently longer than a
single season and geographically replicable (what was fashion in the USA one year could become fashion in Europe next year).
Fashion today: a “network” businesstechnical innovation and intense competition,
consumer’s need for variety and change
Very segmented diffusion; niche markets – but globally; Answering to a need of distinction and identification (i.e.
status symbol); Reacting to the consumers “pull”; Asking for customisation; very short life cycle of products, even if in some mixed way.
T&F Made in Italy: SWot analysisWeaknesses Strengths
Good image (Made in Italy)
Internationalization
History
Clusters (economy of scope)
Flexibility
Quick response
Size
Family business
Skills
Niche market
Specialization
Few global brands
Global competition
Production orientation
Finance
Banking System
Policy makers’ opinion
T&F Made in Italy: swOT analysis
Threats Opportunities
International Growing Market
Luxury Niche
Innovation & Technology
Supply-chain
Global Network
China/India
Energy Costs
Transport Costs
Consumer Budget
Retail Strategy
Italian T&F Industry: a dynamic tradition
Fast/flexible
Close/interlinked
Worth/meaningful
Fast Fashion: a successful model suitable for Italian T&F
Fast Fashion: the business model
Multiplier of average value
(from materials to final product)
Traditional Model Fast Fashion
Time to market 18/24 months Up to 2 weeks
~ 6/8 ~ 2/2,5
Source: The European House Ambrosetti – Cietta
Turnover average growth (2002-2006)
~ +0,6% ~ +17%
Italian Textile-Fashion Industry(2005-2009)
2005 2006 2007 2008 2009
Turnover 53.056 53.361 55.021 54.117 45.187 % change 0,6 3,1 -1,6 -16,5
Exports 26.572 27.559 28.070 27.775 22.137 % change 3,7 1,9 -1,1 -20,3Imports 15.568 17.465 17.912 17.774 15.826 % change 12,2 2,6 -0,8 -11,0Trade balance 11.004 10.094 10.158 10.001 6.310 % change -8,3 0,6 -1,5 -36,9
Employees (thousand) 524.930 516.674 512.956 508.200 482.282 % change -1,6 -0,7 -0,9 -5,1
Structural Indicator (%)Export/Turnover 50,1 51,6 51,0 51,3 49,0
Fonte: stime SMI-LIUC
Il Tessile-Moda: l’estero Periodo: Gennaio-Settembre 2009
TESSILE-MODA
EXPORT Valore
(mld. €) Var.% tend.
IMPORT
Valore (mld. €)
Var.% tend.
ABBIGLIAMENTO-MODA
TESSILE
11,074 -16,4
16,780 -20,0
5,706 -26,2
8,552 -4,0
12,066 -10,4
3,514 -23,0
Fonte: SMI su ISTAT
Il Tessile-Moda: commercio con l’estero
Periodo: Gennaio-Settembre 2009 (Var. % tendenziali)
ABBIGLIAMENTO-MODA
TESSILE
INTRA-UE EXTRA-UE
Export: -25,4%
Import: -24,5%
Export: -27,3%
Import: -21,8%
Export: -11,9%
Import: -9,2%
Export: -21,6%
Import: -0,9%
Fonte: SMI su ISTAT
Il Tessile-Moda: la congiuntura nel 2009
Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2009
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
5
Tessile Vestiario Tessile-Moda
1° trim. 09 2° trim. 09 3° trim. 09*
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
5
Italia Estero Totale
1° trim. 09 2° trim. 09 3° trim. 09*
Fatturato
Analisi per mercato
(Var. % tendenziali)
Analisi per comparti
Il Tessile-Moda: la congiuntura nel 2009
Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2009
-25
-20
-15
-10
-5
0
5
Tessile Vestiario Tessile-Moda
1° trim. 09 2° trim. 09 3° trim. 09*
Produzione (Italia)
-10
-8
-6
-4
-2
0
2
Tessile Vestiario Tessile-Moda
1° trim. 09 2° trim. 09 3° trim. 09*
Occupazione (Italia)
(Var. % tendenziali) (Var. % tendenziali)
58,750,6 55,3
22,0
11,1
17,4
19,3
38,327,4
Tessile Vestiario Tessile-Moda
Stabile Migliora Peggiora
Il Tessile-Moda: la congiuntura nel 2009
Fonte: SMI su Indagine Campionaria Interna, 2008-2009
Sentiment degli operatori evoluzione congiuntura
Rilevazione 2009(Quote %)
Rilevazione 2008(Quote %)
36,845,6 41,9
11,84,9 7,8
51,3 49,5 50,3
Tessile Vestiario Tessile-Moda
Stabile Migliora Peggiora
Il modello giuridico dell’Unione Europea
Livello nazionale
azienda
Consiglio dei Ministri e Parlamento
Livello regionale
Parlamento nazionale
Parlamento regionale
Livello Unione Europea
Industrial policy forTextile and Clothing Industry
1. General framework
2. Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘90s
3. Industrial policy for competitive framework and companies’ networks in the 2000s
4. Industrial policy for the next future
La politica industriale negli anni 90
1.La politica industriale per settori produttivi
2.La politica industriale per i distretti
La politica industriale per settori produttivi
1992 – 1996Il Piano Nazionale di Ricerca per il settore
Tessile ed Abbigliamento(93 milioni di euro al valore attuale)
Finanziamento delle attività di ricerca di vari consorzi sulla filatura, la tessitura, la tintoria, la stampa…
Il Piano Nazionale di Ricerca per il settore Tessile ed Abbigliamento
Criticità
Aggregazioni solo temporanee, senza consolidamento di rapporti tra aziende
Enfasi solo sulla parte tecnologica
Pochi rapporti con le Università e i centri di ricerca
Legge sui distretti (1996)
Finanziamenti per la costituzione di comitati di Distretto, con la partecipazione di aziende, sindacati e rappresentanti delle istituzioni
Fondi a disposizioni per creare strutture di servizio attive nei Distretti: centri servizi, centri per la diffusione tecnologica…
Legge sui distretti (1996)
Criticità
Nascita di strutture molto burocratizzate Doppioni con il ruolo di programmazione
dello sviluppo territoriale delle Pubbliche Amministrazioni locali
Difficoltà ad assumere decisioni operative Difficoltà ad introdurre innovazione (enfasi
sulla tradizione) e diversificazione verso settori nuovi e più promettenti
Industrial policy forTextile and Clothing Industry
1. General framework2. Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘90s
3. Industrial policy for competitive framework and companies’ networks in the 2000s
4. Industrial policy for the next future
La politica industriale per fattori e reti di imprese negli anni 2000
1.L’assetto normativo europeo
2.La politica industriale italiana: Industria 2015
L’assetto normativoeuropeo:evitare il nazionalismo,potenziare la concorrenza nelMercato Interno
Niente programmi di aiuti e/o incentivi a settori specifici
Niente programmi di aiuti e/o incentivi senza un preventivo controllo della Commissione UE
Industria 2015Progetti di innovazione industriale
per gruppi di imprese(Strumenti di incentivo a bando, con fase negoziale)
nuove tecnologie per il Made in Italy(180 milioni di euro nel 2008):
ModaArredamento /casaMeccanica/elettronicaAlimentare
Industria 2015: Le nuove tecnologie per la moda
Vantaggi:Risorse ingenti per progetti di ampio respiro (ogni progetto deve prevedere almeno 3/5 milioni di euro di costi)
Possibilità di negoziare e quindi di ampliare la collaborazione con il Ministero
Le nuove tecnologie per la moda: un esempio
Sistemi informatici di co-progettazione
Industria 2015
Strumento automatico di incentivo
credito di impostaper ricerca e sviluppo
anche per campionari e collezioniche rappresentano la gran parte della ricerca
delle PMI italiane del settore T&M
Industria 2015:credito di imposta per ricerca e sviluppo
Vantaggi:
CapillaritàNon discrezionalitàPrevedibilità
Assetto degli strumenti per la concessione di incentivi pubblici
Oggi 91 strumenti di
agevolazione nazionale
1261 strumenti di agevolazione regionale
Assetto degli strumenti per la concessione di incentivi pubblici
Dal 1 gennaio 2011 1 unico fondo nazionale 1 sede stabile di concertazione tra
Ministero dello Sviluppo Economico e Regioni
2 tipologie di strumenti:
Assetto degli strumenti per la concessione di incentivi pubblici
Per PMI e finanziamenti fino a € 1 milione: strumenti automaticiTEMPI: 30 giorni per accertamenti ed erogazione
Per progetti di importo maggiore:procedura negoziale (con appositi tipi di contratto) o valutativaTEMPI: 4 mesi di tempo per concessione degli incentivi
Le proposte di SMI per superare la crisi economica
(In) Vestire in Italia
Il Tessile-Moda come risorsa rinnovabile per il Paese
2
3
Stimoli selettivi ai consumi
RIGENERARE
LA MODA
Deducibilità fiscale per le spese di abbigliamento per l’infanzia, via scontrino parlante
1
4
5
Riqualificazione delle strutture turistiche vetuste o degradate
AIUTARE LA FAMIGLIA CHE
CRESCE
RIGENERARE L’ACCOGLIENZA
DEFISCALIZZARE LA TRASPARENZA
NEW PUBLIC PROCUREMENT
Agevolare fiscalmente i prodotti che attestano il rispetto alle norme eco-tossicologiche Europee
Il recupero dell’abbigliamento usato come facilitazione per l’acquisto di capi nuovi
La domanda pubblica come volano di sviluppo
Tessili e Abbigliamento Uomo/Donna
Tessili e Abbigliamento
Bambino
Tessili per Arredo e Biancheria per la
Casa
Eco-tossicologicamente
compatibili
Tessili Tecnici e Abbigliamento Professionale
Sostegni alla capacità produttiva
Come il TFR confluito nei Fondi Pensione di categoria possa favorire gli investimenti
LA MODA E’ DONNAValorizzazione e agevolazione dell’occupazione femminile
Riconoscere lo status energivoro di molte PMI e contenere le accise
Riduzioni dei premi INAIL e rivisitazione dei conteggi per la CIG
LE COLLEZIONI COME R&S
UNA PREVIDENZA PER LO SVILUPPO
Lo studio e la realizzazione dei campionari sono meritevoli di credito (d’imposta)
6
L’ENERGIA PER COMPETERE
MENO RISCHI, PIU’ FLESSIBILITA’, MENO
COSTI
7
8
9
10
Sul fronte finanziario
Sul fronte delle risorse
Sul fronte dell’innovazione
Industrial policy forTextile and Clothing Industry
1. General framework
2. Industrial policy for sectors and clusters in the ‘90s
3. Industrial policy for competitive framework and companies’ networks in the 2000s
4. Industrial policy for the next future
Industrial policy for the next future
1.EU '2020 strategy'
2.SMI considerationsSMI points
SMI vision for Italian T&F future
EU '2020 strategy'
in November 2009, the European Commission proposed a wide-ranging strategy (*) to lift the
EU out of recession and to lead Europe towards a
green, knowledge-based economy
by 2020
(*)= the successor to the current Lisbon Strategy
Europe needs a common agenda
the new Commission visionfor where the European Union should be in 2020
new sustainable social market economy, a smarter, greener economy where prosperity will result from innovation and from using resources better, and where knowledge will be the key
input
Time table24 November 2009: Commission launch of a
consultation for citizens, companies, Associations… on the internet (http://ec.europa.eu/eu2020/)
15 January 2010: Deadline for the consultation
23 March 2010: EU's Heads of State and Government summit to approve:the whole strategy andthe EUROPEAN INNOVATION ACT (5 years plan): innovation = political priority
Main challenges of the EU2020 strategy
globalisation
climate change
ageing population
the structural challenges identified as the basis for the EU 2020 strategy:
Main topics of the EU2020 strategy to confront these structural challenges EU
Commission proposes to have a common agenda whose main topics can be summarised as follows:
1. Exit strategy from the crisis
2. Four key priorities
3. EU member states firmly in control
1. Exit strategy from the crisisthe first key challenge will be to balance the "continued need for fiscal
support" for economic growth in the short term with "the need to restore sustainable public finances and macroeconomic stability" in the long run.
Member states will need to redirect public expenditure towards the thematic objectives of EU 2020 so that the necessary investments in Europe's future can be made.
2. Four key priorities
a) Innovation and knowledge
b) Fighting exclusion
c) Green growth
d) Digital, transportation, energy infrastructure for Europe
Innovation and knowledge
The "engine for sustainable growth" is knowledge and technology
EU needs to move to "a value economy"
In a fast-changing world, what makes the difference is innovation in both products and processes
Fighting exclusion
With unemployment set to hit double-digit figures in 2010, the Commission recommends:
"empowering people" in order to create new (kinds of) jobs
transition between jobs and training periods will require a major effort to prevent people falling out of the system
Green growth
With higher energy prices and greater competition for natural resources, European businesses need to adapt
More efficient use of resources, energy, and the application of new, greener technologies will stimulate growth, create new jobs and services and help
the EU meet its environmental and climate goals
Digital, transportation, energy infrastructure for EuropeDeveloping a "smart, upgraded transport and
energy infrastructures to improve competitiveness“
Besides those priorities
Single Market should be better exploited
liberalisation for the benefit of the consumers
Trade Policy should:promote the principles underlying the sustainable social market economy in the global context
ensure that barriers to international flows of trade and investment are reduced
promote open and rules-based global trade
3. EU member states firmly in control of the agenda European Council of heads of state should fix a small number of
headline objectives and define the corresponding policy action to be pursued at EU and member state level in partnership
For each objective, member states would set their individual
targets for five years corresponding to their national situations and their starting points
The Commission would monitor implementation every year, with
both a thematic and country review
Summarizing
Company= private initiative
European Union
Country
Region
INNOVATION
for profit in the long run, more than “quick
money”
STRUCTURAL CHALLENGES
globalisation
climate changes
ageing population
Expectations in Economic development
SOCIAL MEGATRENDS
RULES, STANDARDISATION (*),
TAX POLICIES & SUBSIDIES
(*) = OPEN & MARKET STANDARDS
SMI considerations
The above priorities could be broadly accepted.
However…
T&F characteristics
T&F is a creative and innovativecreative and innovative industry, characterised by a large number of very large number of very small to medium size companiessmall to medium size companies subject to the effects of the globalisationglobalisation of its markets while developing and marketing flexible flexible materialsmaterials and productsproducts for a myriad of myriad of applicationsapplications for everyday life
T&F environmental performance
The European textile and clothing pipeline has an environmental and carbon footprint which is probably amongst the lowest in the world and its products are essential components in many environmental functions
SMI points
1. definition of innovation2. support of T&F SMEs3. more effective demand-side measures4. more focused Regulation and more
active promotion policies for greener textiles and clothing products
Need for clearer and correct definition of the term “creative industry” or innovation
such concept also cover the “non-technological innovation” which is key to European textile
and clothing industries
such intangible value creation is a clear strength of the sector
A controversial pointMost governmental policies remain focused on science and technological innovation: the financial support to
innovative companies generally means support to technologically innovative
companies.But
non-technological innovation should also be strongly supported as they also
generate value and employment.
in addition…
non-technological innovation is generally less intensive in initial capital and
therefore less risky.
No always an innovative technology should necessarily underlie an
innovative service or business model
INNOVATION (Oslo Manual 2005, OECD)
the implementation of a new or significantly improved
product (good or service), or process, a new marketing
method, or a new organisational method in
business practices, workplace organisation or
external relations
A product innovation is the introduction of a good or service that is new or significantly improved with respect to its characteristics or intended uses...
A process innovation is the implementation of a new or significantly improved production or delivery method...
A marketing innovation is the implementation of a new marketing
method involving significant changes in product design or packaging, product placement, product promotion or pricing.
An organisational innovation is the implementation of a new organisational method...
Innovation for a “demanding” final consumerHow to deal with him/her?How to deal with him/her?
(some ideas)(some ideas)Some Features of the Some Features of the
“modern” Western “modern” Western ConsumerConsumer
Informed and prepared
Unfaithful
Impulsive
Without “real” needs to satisfy
He/she wants emotions, gratifications
Creativity
First class distribution
Quickness
Optimize quality/price ratio
Global network of partners
in sourcing, manufacturing
and distribution
Maslow's Hierarchy of Needs
Giving support to T&F SMEs
accessibility, flexibility and simplicity of schemes for public resources to stimulate research, creativity, innovation
access to credit for innovation carried out by creative SMEs should be easier, more available and affordable
simplification of legislation (i.e.: adoption of simplified rules on generic fibre names and in the rules on bioactive fibres)
more effective demand-side measuresa clearer link between research, innovation and
public procurement
public authorities should encourage more visibly the uptake of the innovative products in the day-to-day life of their administrations
more focused Regulations avoid new Regulations disconnected from the
life-cycle of the technologies
the return on investment is by far not always immediate with those new approaches
there is an underlying danger
new policies will be only “environmentally-friendly” driven irrespective of the costs that those will represent for the EU manufacturing industry
more active promotion policies for greener textiles and clothing products
consumers’ resistance in rewarding more environmentally-friendly products/processes
consumers is not adapting his/her wish for a “safer, greener consumption” with its behaviour as he/she is not prepared to pay adequately for “greener” but slightly costlier textile and clothing products.
active tax policies and subsidiesto stimulate more demand for greener textile products to
encourage European SMEs to invest in those new technologies or processes
Vision SMI per il futuro dell’industria Tessile-Moda italiana:
non una soluzione, ma alcune strategie
L’Italia deve fare politica industriale per i settori in cui siamo specializzati
il tessuto economico futuro sarà ancora
formato per gran parte dai settori che solo oggi prevalenti, ma con una
struttura organizzativa e produttiva “aggiornata”
Promozione dello sviluppo delle piccole e medie imprese (PMI) e delle micro imprese (<10 addetti)
Innovazione di prodotto e commerciale
Il punto di partenza: le nostre caratteristiche
Velocità
Vicinanza
Valore
Identità e tradizione dinamica
Qualità
Valori estetici
Valori etico-sociali
Valori eco-tossicologici
Trasparenza e sostenibilità
Integrazione e coesione di filiera
Economie di prossimità
Flessibilità
Efficienza
Focus sul consumatore
Sentieri di sviluppo
focalizzati non sulla crescita
quantitativa, ma sulla crescita di
valore
La globalizzazione comporta… Servire molti paesi, molto lontani geograficamente
e anche culturalmente Grande interdipendenza Riduzione della prevedibilità Aumento della capacità organizzativa e gestionale Aumento dei rischi (misurabili) e dell’incertezza
(non misurabile)
COMPLESSITA’
COMPLICATO
COMPLESSO
La globalizzazione richiede…
AGGREGAZIONE di PMI(equity / non equity)
Maggiori risorse interne e competenze evolute Maggiori capitali per affrontare maggiori
investimenti Maggiori capitali per coprire maggiori rischi e
maggiore incertezza Approcci multiculturali
(Hermès per il mercato cinese ha creato una nuova griffe: Shang Xia)
PMI globali… PMI in rete
INNOVAZIONERICERCA
INTERNAZIONALIZZAZIONE
La forza della rete
Identità individuale e controllo familiare
Dimensione economica e potere di mercato pari alla somma delle PMI
La Ricerca ieri: fornitori
Ieri: pochi, grandi fornitori, molto qualificati, che facevano internamente la ricerca e la diffondevano tramite la vendita dei loro prodotti (industria chimica e meccanotessile)
Oggi: tanto fornitori di commodities, senza attività di ricerca interna, poco innovativi, con scarsa capacità di differenziazione
La Ricerca oggi:Università e Centi di ricerca
la Piattaforma Tecnologica per il T&M Da commodity a prodotti speciali Nuove applicazioni tessili Mass costumisation & quick response
DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA:MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA, COMPETITIVITA’22nd IFATCC INTERNATIONAL CONGRESSItalia, Stresa, 5-7 Maggio, 2010
DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA:MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA, COMPETITIVITA’
LA CHIMICA TESSILE SOSTENIBILEMaterie prime di origine biologica e processi rispettosi dell'ambiente. Precursori e
polimeri per nuove fibre, ausiliari, coloranti, tessili biologici
INNOVARE LA FILIERA TESSILEIntroduzione di nuove tecnologie per accrescere il valore aggiunto. Filatura, preparazione, tintura e stampa, finissaggio, applicazioni specifiche di superficie,
bio e nanotecnologie, tecniche e strumenti di misura
QUALITA’, AMBIENTE E SICUREZZAStandard e tecnologie. Come accrescere la qualità dei prodotti e dei processi e
proteggere l'ambiente e la salute
http://www.stresa2010.org
DALLA CHIMICA TESSILE ALLA MODA:MULTIFUNZIONALITA, SOSTENIBILITA, COMPETITIVITA’
IL MONDO DEI TESSILI TECNICINuove opportunità offerte al settore dei tessili tradizionali e sviluppo di applicazioni
innovative in settori non convenzionali
IL MACCHINARIO TESSILEFattore trainante per realizzare processi efficienti, ecologici e di basso costo
LA MODAElemento di primaria importanza strategica: fashion e design, lo sforzo congiunto del
settore manifatturiero per la crescita del valore tecnicoed economico del tessile
http://www.stresa2010.org
Innovazione commerciale:Se la gerarchia dei bisogni è fatta così…
…allora dobbiamo posizionare il prodotto moda tra i beni “relazionali”anche in termini di NUOVO RAPPORTO CON IL CONSUMATORE: e-commerce e on-line marketing
ASPETTATIVE DI BUSINESS NEI MERCATI MATURI È improbabile che la
ripresa sia sostenuta I consumi sono previsti
in calo o stagnanti La competizione è sempre più forte, spinta
anche dall’apprezzamento dell’euro
La ripresa può essere agganciata tramite il commercio estero Sviluppare la strategia di apertura
reciproca dei mercati Combattere le barriere non-tariffarie Concentrare gli sforzi in quei
Paesi o aree con i mercatipiù grandi o promettentiper le nostre industrie
Gestire complessità e rischi
Razionalizzare sovra-capacità produttiva
Capire trend di mercato
Know–how per aggregazioni (equity/no-equity) e potenziamento
networking
Analisi di supporto alle decisioni di medio-lungo termine
Servizi evoluti ad alto valore aggiunto
Promozione/esplorazione mkt
Apertura mkt (norme)
Ricerca applicata e sviluppo
Brevetti; collaborazione con Università e Centri di ricerca
Marchi/brand Creatività
Linee d’azione a livello macro
Nuovi prodotti (tradizionali ma con componenti innovative)
Nuovi sbocchi (tessili non convenzionali, biomedicali, per diagnostica)
Nuovi mercati (BRIC; STIM; Paesi Arabi)
PRIORITA’
SFIDE
Globalizzazione
Criticità ambientali
UE/società stazionarie (invecchiamento popolazione, senza crescita)
Definire politiche industriali
Sentieri di sviluppoStrategie del Sistema
Associativo Tessile-Moda
Thank you!Thank you!
Mauro ChezziMauro Chezzi
Deputy directorDeputy director
Sistema Moda ItaliaSistema Moda Italia
www.sistemamodaitalia.com