How to Plant a Vegetable GardenMany vegetables are easy to grow and by learning to plant a vegetable garden, in a small space, you

can grow many herbs and vegetables, and use these fresh vegetables for cooking.

The job of creating a vegetable garden needs some planning and research. The two important

questions to ask is 'what to plant' and 'when to plant'. By figuring out the right plants and the right

time to plant them, you have completed an important step in starting a vegetable garden procedure. It

is important you consider plants which are compatible with each other, which means don't inhibit each

other's growth. Also, figure out what is the right time to plant these crops. Make groups of plant

according to the season they should be planted and grow them accordingly. Here are useful tips and

tricks, that will help you plant different vegetables and enjoy home grown fresh vegetables for cooking

and eating.

How to Grow a Vegetable Garden?

Selecting the Site

The best way to plant a vegetable garden is to select site, which is the sunniest and brightest in the

yard. If you can't find such a spot then find the next sunniest spot, however, avoid any areas which are

too shady as only leaf crops can grow in limited sunlight. If you don't have enough space in your yard,

then make groups of plants which can be grown on a patio or deck using container gardening. Many

hanging plants which can grow on limited sunlight are a great choice.

Choosing the Right Plants to Grow

As this is your first time growing a vegetables garden, pick lesser than average number of seeds of the

vegetables, so that you don't run out of space. Select the varieties that grow and mature and yield to

the region, and pick seeds of vegetables that you and your family would like to eat. If you are in doubt

then seek advice of local master gardener or a certified plant nursery person.

Timing the Plantation

It is important that you pick the vegetables according to the season for gardening. Vegetables which

come earliest in spring season are rhubarb, lettuce, asparagus and radishes. Vegetables that you can

store in your basement, and grow in winters are potatoes, carrots, squash, parsnips, etc. For summer

sweet corn, beans, peas, beets, cauliflower, tomatoes are appropriate. So do a little research on the

vegetables which can be grown in the respective season, and pick the vegetables which you and your

family would like to eat.

Preparing the Soil

Once you have made the selection of vegetable seeds, prepare the soil. Add generous amounts of

organic humus to the existing soil. Peat moss, compost and well rotted manure or processed manure

are good forms of organic humus, which can be added to the existing soil. Then mix the humus

thoroughly in the soil, and you are ready to begin the planting.

Planning the Layout

The planning should be done considering two important factors. First is to plant the crops which don't

inhibit each other's growth, and the second important factor is to allow appropriate space between

each group of vegetables and keep appropriate space between each individual plant. Plant the

medium-sized crops like cauliflower, broccoli, tomatoes, squash, pumpkins, cabbage, etc., in the

middle of the vegetable garden. Then at the very southern end you should plant the low growing crops

like carrots, beets, lettuce, onions, radishes, etc. Form trays for groups of vegetables, and plant the

groups in these trays. To understand the individual distance between the plants, refer to the seeds

packages. The seed packages will tell you the exact distance that needs to be maintained between

seeds while planting.

These were the steps that will help you start a vegetable garden. So, use the above guidelines and

make the right selection of vegetable to start your very own vegetable garden!

Garden Care

Do you dream of having a garden of your own, but hesitate to fulfill it because of the hassles that you might face in maintaining the garden? If yes, you're probably caught up with a serious misconception because taking care of your home garden is certainly not a very difficult or labor intensive job to do. You just need a little bit of research, planning, patience and some vital tips that might lead you to a well maintained garden.  

Vital Aspects of Garden Care

Knowing your garden is the first and foremost step in keeping your garden free from all the potential problems.

Knowing the garden means you must be aware of the kind of soil it has got, the pH level, water retention

capability and the chemical composition of the soil etc. Apart from it, you must check out how much amount of

water is available at your disposal, and whether you have a regular access to water or not, as it really might be a

distasteful experience to find no water supply when your plants need it the most. Also, you must have a proper

planning as to what kinds of plants you would like to grow in your garden, and which particular areas would be

the best to be allotted to different plants.

Protection of plants is a yet another vital issue that usually gets unnoticed by people until their plants are in

acute danger and need immediate protection. This protection might be from a number of adverse factors

affecting your plants negatively, including pests, insects, diseases and bad weather.

Regularity in garden care and maintenance is very essential, as your plants are living beings like your own

kids who are solely dependant upon you for everything they need right from their food to protection. You

can't expect your plants to grow healthily and safely if you look at them once in a month and forget them for

the rest of the days. Like every other living being, your plants need your proper attention, love and care.

At regular intervals, keep spraying disinfectants and pesticides at your plants. A spray in time might be

helpful in preventing any potential disease or pest attack that might have caused a lot of damage to your

garden until you would have cured it after the attack. Also, some kinds of pests are more likely to attack

during different weathers, so try to know about them from trustworthy resources around you and apply

advance spray before the potentially dangerous period.

At last, but not the least, never hesitate consulting the useful resources about gardening. These resources

might include the flower nurseries around you, fellow garden owners in the town, agriculture experts,

valuable books, and also the Internet, wherein you might find experts from every corner of the world eager

to help you out whenever you find yourself and your garden in trouble.

Preparing Soil For GardenThe right preparation of soil for your garden will make it blooming with flowers. Also you can soothe your eyes with lashing greenery overthrown everywhere. 

Chemical FertilizersSo you have given the desired form to your garden and now relishing its beauty. It is quite logical that your hard-labored dream-paradise is quite dear to you not to speak about those who are devoted to it.

Garden DecorationWorking in your garden can help you stay connected with Mother Nature, while spending leisure time in the place can help you de-stress yourself

Climbing IvyAre you bored of the dull look of your garden wall or fence? Do you want to revamp it? If yes, then climbing ivy can be the best way to do it.

Making TopiariesTopiaries are basically the decorative shapes in garden made by clipping or trimming shrubs. They are a common feature in most of the gardens now.

Natural FertilizerIf you want to increase the quality of the soil in your garden and provide better nutrients to the plants grown therein, making use of fertilizers is a good option.

Planting A Vegetable Garden

Planting a vegetable garden is an important issue for any person who wishes to have natural

food at one’s disposal for consumption and storage. In fact, people who dream to have

vegetables from own garden on table are recommended to take a piece of advice from skilled

gardeners and proceed implementing these idea into practice.

There are many advantages in planting a vegetable garden, among them being: opportunity to

control the amount of chemical components (if any) in vegetables; availability of fresh

vegetables brought from garden for eating or storing; possibility to save money (no necessity to

purchase vegetables at groceries’) and a lot of others.

Planting vegetable gardens is not usually connected with spending a lot of time and energy. It

encompasses several stages. First of all, it is important to draw a sketch planning your future garden

and prepare soil. The next stage includes placing seeds in soil and/or planting seedlings. Since this

time your main task is to provide permanent care for the garden, exercise control and prevent weed

growth. If you keep to these instructions soon you will taste own vegetables.

1. Planting Your Vegetable Garden

Every person who wants to start gardening is supposed to begin with its proper dislocation.

Vegetables need direct sunlight during 5-6 hours daily in order to become ripe. Correct location of

your garden will help avoid disappointment and gain success in growing high-quality vegetables.

Preparing room for your garden mainly depends on the amount and sorts of crops you wish to

harvest every year. For instance, a family consisting of four members will need not less than 3

meters of each row of planted crops. So, if you wish to grow ten different sorts of vegetables, you will

need quite a lot of place.

Planting and growing vegetables requires certain experience. It is recommended to plant small

number of vegetables in order to understand the whole process better and gain sufficient

experience.

It must be mentioned that planting a vegetable garden might not need so much open place if you

endeavor planting crops in containers. This is considered to be a reliable alternative for people who

do not have lands at their disposal.

2. Making Soil Fertile

Preparing fertile soil is known to be the key issue of planting a vegetable garden. This includes

digging (before planting); adding soil organic fertilizers (to provide more nutritive elements for plants)

and others. Good quality of soil is one the most important factors that directly influences future

crops.

3. Planting VegetablesPlacing seeds is the most important procedure when planting a vegetable garden. At first, dig a row

for placing seeds. Then, cover seeds slightly by soil in order to make them grow faster. Planting

seedlings involves making small holes in rows. Carrots, red beets, parsley, cucumbers, beans, peas

etc. grow from seeds; tomatoes, peppers are better planted as seedlings. You need to water seeds

and/or seedlings thoroughly after planting has been finished.

Thus, planting a vegetable garden is a rewarding activity helping become closer tonature and grow

healthy green diet products.

How Do I Become a Vegetable Grower?

Anyone looking to become a vegetable grower should begin by looking into local supermarkets and cooperative markets (co-ops) for what people in his or her area are looking to buy. A person who wants to get into vegetable growing for profit should find out what is in high supply and what is in high demand in the local region, so that he or she might fill a need that is otherwise not being met. Then the person who wants to become a vegetable grower should begin to get the necessary supplies and materials needed to actually begin growing the vegetables.

Someone who is working to become a vegetable grower should be sure to find the space to grow all the desired vegetables. This may be a field purchased or rented for use, or land on his or her property. The potential grower may wish to raise only organic vegetables and so should try to find a region where there may be fewer insects and other animals that will try to eat the burgeoning crops. While there are organic pesticides that can be used and still keep foods safe, the less need for such measures the easier it will be for the grower.

The person looking to become a vegetable grower should also figure out what vegetables and herbs can be most readily grown when the grower is ready to start working. Not all vegetables can successfully be grown at all times of year in all climates, so the grower needs to be sure that he or she gets the proper seeds to start growing as soon as possible. Local nurseries, major hardware stores with a garden department, and other large wholesale stores with garden departments are all great sources for the gardening tools, watering systems, and other supplies needed to become a vegetable grower.

Along with water, soil is one of the most important things for growing plants. If the local soil is not particularly rich with nutrients, a new grower might consider buying a number of bags of soil to mix in with the ground soil. This will usually give the growing plants a better chance of producing larger and more appealing vegetables.

Anyone working to become a vegetable grower should find out about the growth times and cycles of the planted seeds and be sure to take proper care of the growing vegetables. Co-ops or local markets should also be approached before the plants are out of the ground to start building a relationship and contacts with the people there. The new vegetable grower would then typically be in a better place to move his or her vegetables once they are out of the ground and ready for sale.

It may seem that planting vegetables is easy—just dig a hole and put in the seed! You could do that, of course, but you run the risk of overcrowding and drainage issues. Using the right method for the vegetable you’re planting will not only stimulate growth, it will protect your plants and give you the bumper crop you’ve always wanted. Here are the best planting and seeding methods for all of your favorite vegetables.

Planting MethodsNo matter what method you use, all plants should be set up in rows—that way, you know what’s a weed and what’s supposed to be growing there. It helps if you first make a garden plan detailing how many rows you need, what size they should be, and how much space you need between them. Check the seed packets to determine proper spacing for your seeds.

To lay out the rows: measure the length of each row, and use stakes and string to mark them. Chalk string that you snap against the soil so it leaves a mark is a good approach. Leave the stake and string in place until you’ve finished planting each row, to keep your rows straight and the spacing the way you want it.

The Hill MethodCrops such as beans, sunflowers, and any other large seeds should be planted in rows of small, evenly spaced hills (check your seed packets for spacing requirements). A hill might be as small as 6 inches or as high as about 1 foot, depending on what you are planting.

To create a hill, just scoop up a handful of soil in each hand, pull the handfuls together in one pile, and smooth it down. When scooping the soil, be sure you pull it evenly from all sides. You can even make a tiny moat around the base of the hill to trap water during dry weather. One you have the hill ready, you just plant one big seed right in the center.

The Mound MethodA planting mound is a large hill of soil pulled up from the surrounding area to create a raised planting environment. Traditionally, mounds are used for growing big and sprawling vegetable plants such as zucchini, cucumber, summer and winter squash, pumpkins, and melons. A mound can be anywhere from about 18 to 24 inches high.

Determine the spacing for your mounds based on the distances for the vegetable you’re planting (noted on the seed packet). Mark a midpoint for each mound. Then using a garden rake or a hoe, pull soil from the surrounding ground until it forms a pile. Be sure you take soil away evenly so there are no big dips around the mound, although a shallow moat at the base of each mound does help retain water in dry weather.

Flatten the pile a little on top and smooth the sides so the soil is evenly spread all the way around. Then follow the planting directions for each type of vegetable. Seeds or seedlings are generally planted in a circle or a triangle on a mound.

Planting in FurrowsA furrow is a shallow trench (a long, narrow hole with a flat bottom). Using furrows makes sense when you’re planting a lot of one kind of plant that requires a little more depth, such as asparagus, rhubarb, turnips, and potatoes.

Using a hoe, mound the soil up on one side of the furrow to make it easier to push back in on top of the seeds or roots you put in the furrow.

Seeding MethodsThere are also a couple different methods for planting seeds, depending on the size of the seeds you’re using and the size of your garden.

Planting Seeds One by OneSome seeds—most notably beans, corn, cucumbers, melons, and squash—are quite large so handling them one at a time is easy to do. When you plant one seed at a time, you have a lot of control over your spacing. But if many of the seeds don’t germinate or fail to grow well, you’ll need to replant in those spaces.

The Scatter MethodScattering or “broadcasting,” is a good method of sowing seed if you have lots of space and want large quantities of one kind of plant. Broadcasted seed won’t necessarily space itself evenly in the garden, but you can thin out young seedlings that are too close together. You can also scatter seeds in very confined spaces such as a large pot or planting box.

The scatter method won’t work for seeds that need a soil cover. Be sure to check the information on individual seed packets before you start throwing seeds around your garden.

Transplanting SeedlingsFirst, to ensure the health of your plants, transplant seedlings on an overcast day if possible. If you live where there never seems to be a cloudy day, do your transplanting in the late afternoon or early evening when the sun is low in the sky, to protect tender, new plants from a heavy dose of sunlight.

Dig a hole that’s about twice the width of the container you are transplanting, and the same depth. Be sure the sides of the hole are roughed up a bit; tender young roots will find it easier to push into than soil that has been made smooth by the blade of a spade or trowel.

After you’ve placed the seedling in the hole, fill the hole with soil, gently pressing down all the way around. Be sure you haven’t left any voids that could fill with water and drown your seedling, and that the soil is evenly distributed around the roots.

Water all the seedlings well before and after transplanting. While you’re planting seedlings, pick off dead or damaged leaves, flowers, and any tiny fruits. This allows the plants to put all their energy into producing thick, healthy foliage that will, in turn, help the plant make plenty of its own food for later fruit production.

With the instructions from your seed packets and these few simple methods, you’ll have a bumper crop of vegetables in no time. Happy gardening!

Basic Instructions for Saving Vegetable Seeds 

1. SEED TYPES: When you first purchase seeds you should

avoid  “Hybrid Seeds.” Instead you should buy “Heirloom

Seeds” or “Open Pollinated Seeds.” Hybrid seeds are “man-made seeds” and they are only

good for ONE planting. (Note: If you plant hybrid seeds and then save the seeds from the

hybrid plants that are produced, and then plant those seeds the following spring, the results

will be unpredictable. The plant that grows will usually resemble one of its parents or

grandparents or something in-between. It is also possible that it may produce NO fruit at all.)

Heirloom seeds, on the other hand, will produce crops that yield seeds that will reproduce the

same plant year after year after year as God originally intended. (Genesis 1:11 – Then God

said, “Let the earth bring forth grass, the herb that yields seed, and the fruit tree that yields

fruit according to its kind, whose seed is in itself, on the earth;” and it was so.) When you

purchase a package of seeds, you should NOT plant ALL the seeds from the original package

the first year. Instead you should save some of them for planting in future years in the event

your first year’s planting efforts are not successful. You should also clearly mark exactly

where you plant each type of seed with the name and variety of that seed so you can keep

track of which varieties of seed do best in your climate and in your soil.

2. DISEASE AVOIDANCE: After you have planted your seeds and the plants appear, do NOT

collect seeds from a diseased plant because the disease will have infected that specific plant’s

genes and all future plants grown from those seeds will be easily susceptible to that same

disease.

3. SEED SELECTION: Use the very best looking, strongest, and most productive plants in your

garden for seeds. Generally, you are NOT looking for that ONE special fruit on the vine.

Instead the characteristics you should look for are: early bearing of fruit, total fruit yield, fruit

size and flavor and aroma, and disease resistance. Also, if applicable, late bolting to seed.

Resist the urge to eat your most delectable looking vegetables. Those are the ones you want

to duplicate every year in the future. After you have selected the fruits you want to keep for

seed, identify them with a special marker such as a wooden stake beside the plant, or a

ribbon or string loosely tied to the plant or vine. In most cases (but not all) it is important to

save seeds from at least three different plants of the same variety to provide good pollination

opportunities the following spring.

4. SEED RIPENESS: Allow seeds to fully ripen before harvesting to achieve the best

germination yield the following spring. The seed must be given time to store enough

nourishment so it can germinate the following spring and grow into a healthy seedling.

5. DRYING: Seeds must be dried before they are stored (between 5% to 13% moisture content,

with an average of 8%). Individual seeds should be separated from one another so they can

dry more evenly. Larger seeds will require more time to air dry whereas smaller seeds will

require less time. Do NOT try to dry the seeds too quickly or they may shrink and crack. And

do NOT dry at a temperature higher than 100°F. Indoor air drying is usually the best.

However, if you live in an extremely humid area, then you may dry your seeds by placing

them in the sun in front of a southern facing window for about two days. Since there is no

easy inexpensive method for measuring the exact moisture content of your seeds, you will

need to use your own judgment based on your personal experience. Generally the drier the

seed (but NOT below 5%), the longer the seed will remain alive in storage. Based on Dr.

James Harrington’s research, each additional 1% decrease in the dryness of a vegetable seed

from 13% down to 5% will double its storage life, However, below 5% will normally kill the

seed and above 13% will usually result in the seed not surviving the first winter. Since the

home gardener does not have the expensive equipment to accurately measure the exact

moisture content of a batch of seeds, the home gardener may wish to use a trial and error

approach. When you first suspect that your seeds are dry enough, put half of them into paper

envelopes and label the envelopes with the variety of seed and indicate how many days the

seeds were dried. Continue drying the remainder of the seeds for a few more days. Then put

half of those seeds into paper envelopes and label them as your second drying with the total

number of drying days. After a few more days of drying put the remainder of the seeds into a

paper envelope and label them as your third drying with the total number of drying days.

When you test each envelope of seeds in future years, you can use this trial and error method

to estimate the optimal number of drying days for each type of seed based on your climate,

and your humidity, and your average normal drying conditions.

6. STORAGE: AFTER your seeds are dry, store your seeds in a standard small paper envelope,

or a paper bag, or a cloth bag in a dry, cool area. Do NOT allow the seeds to remain in direct

contact with the air or they will gradually absorb moisture from the humidity in the air with

the passage of time. After placing the seeds in a standard small paper envelope or cloth bag,

you can store that envelope or bag inside a standard plastic freezer bag. Freezer bags are

more expensive and of a higher quality than regular plastic bags. Do NOT seal your seeds

inside a vacuum plastic bag without air because seeds are living organisms and they need a

MINIMUM amount of air to continue their life cycle. The BEST place to store seeds is in a

plastic freezer bag inside a refrigerator at a temperature between 33°F to 40°F. This will

more than double the storage life of your seeds.

7. LABELING: Clearly label each of your seed envelopes or bags using permanent ink to

identify the exact variety of seed and the year the seed was harvested. Also include the

number of days the seed was allowed to dry, along with any unusual weather conditions

during the drying process, such as unusually humid weather or unusually warm or cold

weather during the drying process.

8. SEED BANK: Most seeds can successfully germinate for three to five years after harvesting,

even if they are NOT stored in a refrigerator. Therefore, it is prudent to have your own “Seed

Bank” into which you deposit approximately 10% of the seeds you harvest each year. If an

unexpected disease attacks your crops one year then you will NOT be able to harvest any

seeds from that year’s crops, even though you may be able to eat some or most of that year’s

poor quality marginal vegetables. In this type of situation your “Seed Bank” will permit the

re-establishment of the quality of your crops in future years. The seeds in your “Seed Bank”

are your insurance against unpredictable future diseases that may sweep through your

geographical area. They are also good insurance against an unexpected cross-pollination that

produces a seed that is different than you expected. In most cases you will not become aware

of this type of problem until harvest time the following fall. Once again, your “Seed Bank” will

allow you to re-establish this variety the following spring using seeds saved from previous

years BEFORE the problem appeared.

9. EMERGENCY SEED RESERVE: Each spring you should gradually plant each variety of seed

over an extended period of several weeks. You should NOT plant all your seeds of one variety

at the same time. This reduces your risk of loss to late frosts and it provides a longer harvest

period for fresh vegetables for the table. If you have seeds that are more than one year old

which are NOT part of your “Seed Bank”, then your first planting the following spring should

be one-half of those older seeds. If you do NOT have any two or three year old seeds, then do

NOT plant more than half your previous year’s seed the following spring. Save at least half of

the previous year’s seed as an “Emergency Seed Reserve” (in addition to your “Seed Bank”).

Occasional late snows or an unexpected late frost can kill everything you plant at the

beginning of spring. Your “Emergency Seed Reserve” will allow you to plant a second time

that same year. Later during the spring or summer other problems may arise, such as heavy

rains or no rains or insect damage or tornados or hurricanes, and these disasters could result

in no crops to harvest in the fall. In disaster situations like these, it provides some comfort to

know that you still have a reasonable amount of seed reserved for planting the following year.

If you are forced to use your “Emergency Seed Reserve,” then only plant half of them and

keep the rest of the seeds in reserve. Always keep at least half of your remaining seed as an

“Emergency Seed Reserve” for really hard times. This means each future planting will be

much smaller, but that is much better than having NOTHING to plant at all. Because of

unpredictable situations such as the above, each year it would be wise to harvest at least

twice the amount of seed you think you will need the following year. This strategy will also

provide you with seed to share, sell, or trade and it will bring you one step closer to being an

independent, resourceful human being in God’s natural order of things.

10. PREPARING SEEDS FOR PLANTING: (Note: These suggestions are optional.) Place the

seeds you wish to plant in the freezer compartment of your refrigerator for three hours. When

you remove the seed from the freezer the rush of warm air will help to break its winter

dormancy. Then place the individual seeds between two damp paper towels for one day in a

warm area. The seed is now in an optimal condition for immediate planting.

11. SPRING GERMINATION TEST: (Note: This step is optional.) You can test the viability of

your seeds BEFORE you plant them in the ground in the spring. Use a medium-tip permanent

marker to write the name of the seed and the year it was harvested on a DRY paper towel.

Then dampen the paper towel and place ten seeds on one-half of the towel. Fold the towel in

half so the seeds are between the two halves of the damp paper towel. Place the damp paper

towel inside a plastic trash bag and put it in a warm place. You can put several damp paper

towels containing different seed varieties in the same plastic trash bag. Keep the paper

towels slightly damp but NOT soaking wet. Periodically check the seeds based on the average

germination time for each type of seed. You can determine the “approximate” germination

rate by counting the number of seeds that sprout and dividing by the original number of

seeds tested. For example, if you tested 10 seeds and 8 of them sprouted, then the

germination rate is 80% (8/10 x 100). You can then plant these sprouted seeds in a peat pot

indoors if the outdoor weather is too cold, or you can plant them in the ground if warm

weather has arrived.

The Best Vegetables to Plant From Seed

12. Vegetables like zucchini grow well from seed.

13. Planting and growing a vegetable garden is rewarding for many people who wish to grow their own food -- and literally reap the fruit of their labor. Although many vegetable transplants can be purchased from a local gardening center, this can be quite costly for the average home vegetable gardener. Planting from seed is not only more economical, but it allows gardeners to plant a greater variety of vegetables for minimal upfront cost. Certain varieties are easier to grow from seed, such as lettuce and summer squash, which helps ensure a more successful harvest. Does this Spark an idea?

Lettuce

Lettuce is a cool-season crop commonly grown in the spring and summer months. Easy maintenance coupled with high success rates make this a suitable vegetable to plant from seed. Common varieties include crisphead, romaine, stem and leaf. Hardy to frost, this vegetable does best in full sun or partial shade. Well-draining soil with frequent, but light, watering is preferred for optimal growth. Seeds typically germinate in about one week. Sow seeds 1/8 inch deep with one inch of spacing in-between seeds. Rows should be staggered 12 to 18 inches apart.

Zucchini Zucchini goes by several names including summer squash, yellow squash and

patty pan squash. As a warm-season vegetable, soil temperatures need to be a

steady 70 degrees F to properly germinate. Like lettuce, zucchini germinates quickly, usually in less than a week. Sow seeds ½ inch into the soil in rows 3 to 4 feet apart. Zucchini is known for rapid growth, so once seedlings reach 2 to 3 feet high, it is recommended to thin out rows to help prevent invasion in surrounding crops.

Radishes

Radishes are a companion vegetable to lettuce, and they are easy to grow from seed. A quick growing vegetable, radishes are ready for harvest in about a month. Common varieties include Champion, Cherry Belle and French Breakfast. Radishes do best in full sun but will tolerate light shade. Well-draining soil, loose with organic matter and constant moisture, is essential for optimal growth. Seeds should be sown ½ inch deep in rows 1 foot apart. Space seeds 1 inch apart to avoid crowding.

Cucumbers Cucumbers are suitable companion plants to zucchini, needing warm soil and

full sun to thrive. Three main varieties include pickling, slicing and vining types. Well-draining and highly fertile soil is essential for optimal growth. Sow seeds directly into the soil, 2 inches apart and about 1 to 1 ½ inches deep. Space rows 5 to 6 feet apart. Like zucchini, cucumbers may require thinning once the plant reaches 2 feet high

How to Know Which Vegetables to Plant from SeedBy eHow Contributor

Know which vegetables to plant from seedSpring is the best time to plant vegetables from seed in most places in the United States. In warmer climates you can add autumn to your seed planting

schedule. Some seeds germinate better than others and some plants are best grown from seed rather than bought as plants or cuttings. Here is some advice on what vegetables to plant from seed. Does this Spark an idea?

Other People Are Reading

How to Start Vegetable Plants From Seed

Instructionso 1

Root crops usually don't like transplanting so these are best grown from seed. Root crops would be carrots, parsnips, beets, radishes, salsify and root parsley. Since they are best grown where planted, seed them in rows and thin the seedlings by pulling out those growing too close to each other. This way the remaining plants have space to grow without competition.

o 2

Some vegetables that grow very easily from seed would be celery, squash, corn, beans and basil. Onions germinate well as do their relatives like leeks, scallions and chives, but don't grow them from seed if the onion fly is a problem in your area.

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o 3Lettuce will grow well from seed, but don't plant seeds once the temperature rises much over the low 70'sF as lettuce seed doesn't germinate well in hot weather.

o 4

Many seeds in the solanum family - tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, tomatillo, etc. need a long season to grow so if you do plant them from seed, they should be

started indoors in the warmth by February or March in order to be large enough to plant out when the springtime warms up the soil.

o 5Seeds like parsley can be more difficult to germinate and should be soaked in warm water overnight before planting to help them break dormancy.

o 6

Most unusual vegetables cannot be found in any other form than seed. Unusual varieties of tomato, tomatillo and less common vegetables like celaric, asparagus pea and fava bean can only be bought in seed packets.

o 7

Protect your seeds from birds and rodents. Don't let soil dry out from the time you plant your seed until the little seedling develops a deeper root system. Growing vegetables from seed is fun, fascinating and the most economical way to grow vegetables in the garden. For more information on spring gardening and how to grow vegetables from seed, please check the Resources below.

How to Germinate Vegetable Garden Seeds

Seed Raising Mix or Soil:

o Vegetable seeds need a light, friable soil that will hold moisture to grow. The soil should not be too light and sandy so that it dries out quickly, but not too heavy so that it compacts and clogs up the air spaces.

o Normal garden soil or compost is rarely suitable. A good seed raising mixture could be the answer if you are unsure of the quality of your soil, or mix up your own. Like good cooks, many gardeners have perfected their own favorite recipe for scones... I mean seed raising mix. Here's one:

o 2 parts sieved compost (One of those good old-fashioned garden sieves works well.)

o 1 part river sando 1 part pumice, vermiculite or perlite; or mix of 2 or 3 or

these(Pumice and Perlite are porous volcanic rock and Vermiculite is expanded mica which soaks up and holds moisture.)

o 2 parts sieved horticultural coir/coconut fibre (This can replace sphagnum moss/peat moss which up until recently has always been the classic light, moisture retaining ingredient in seed and potting mixes. You

can still use it, but there is a price, and possibly an unsustainability price also.)

o Seeds must absorb 40-60% of their weight in water to trigger germination. They also need air. When they sprout, they take up moisture from the film of water around the soil particles and they take up air from the space between those particles. So soil quality is important.

Seed Raising Containers

o Individual pots that disintegrate are a good idea. The seeds are planted straight into the pots and once they are big enough the whole thing goes into the ground without disturbing the roots of your baby plants.

o Peat pots used to be popular, but being from a non-renewable source and the problem of the world's peat bogs being drained, it makes sense to use an alternative, such as plant fibre, palm or coconut coir pots.

o Even better than spending money buying seed pots, what you can find at home? Loo rolls, other cardboard containers, handmade newspaper pots; and of course any and all of the plastic food containers lying around.

Sowing Seeds

o You CAN sow your seeds straight into the garden of course, even a no dig garden. Just make sure that the soil and layers have settled down nicely and the decay process won't give little seeds a rocky ride.

o When sowing straight into your no dig garden, make a depression or form a shallow ditch, then fill with fine soil, sow seeds and cover with more soil. Don't put mulch over these areas yet.

o Whether in pots or the garden, seeds should be sown approximately at a depth of twice times their size. So a pumpkin seed would go in roughly at 2cms (¾ inch). Small seeds just need a light sprinkling of fine soil.

o Onions and most root crops, particularly carrots are best sown directly into the garden as they suffer if their roots are disturbed. There again, carrots, parsnips and suchlike will struggle in new no dig beds because it's like an obstacle race for them and they will grow distorted.

o Either dig a deep trench and fill with fine soil for sowing carrots and like-minded sorts, or grow small or stumpy carrot varieties.

o Other seeds that are easy to sow direct in the garden are the biggies where you can just pop a handful of soil in a hole, place the bean, pea, pumpkin etc seed in and cover over.

Seed Raising Temperature

o Warmth is most important for germinating seeds. Most garden seeds will germinate if soil temperature is around 20C (68F).

o For colder climates seed beds must be kept warm either by having them in a sunny protected spot in or near the house (like a porch or garage, out of the elements) or in a glass or plastic covered cold frame.

o Some seeds germinate faster than others. You should have some idea when to expect your seeds to sprout to gauge your success. For planning purposes, here's a germination guide for popular vegetables.

o For most vegetable seeds you can expect a germination time of 6-20 days. In another 4-5 weeks, those seedlings should be transplanted into your no dig garden bed.

o Good vegetable gardeners learn from trial and error; and better gardeners write it down in a ruled notebook and fill up the columns with a sow-by-sow account.

Come each season they ferret though their previous plant records to see — clear as mud — what and when they sowed and hopefully what worked for them.

o And these days the best gardeners take advantage of other people's comprehensive expertise, combined with technology, and use the latest and laziest way and use GrowVeg Seed Sowing and Planting Garden Planner.See example page below:

Like me, as one of the best gardeners lucky enough to have GrowVeg Planner, you'll pat yourself on the back as you glance at your propagation records and see exactly the dates seeds were sown; when they germinated; the success rate; time when ready for transplanting... and finally when you sat down to eat your carrot and swede mash! Perfect.

o Even better you can discover new vegetables to grow with GrowVeg. Simply follow the charts for your area and you can easily see the right time for sowing and growing new vegetables you think you might enjoy, as well as your old favorites of course.

o The quality and variety of the seeds you use will also have an impact on your success. For more information on heirloom seeds, hybrid seeds and how to choose the best vegetable seeds for your circumstances, see seed products.

Care of your vegetable seedlings

o Seeds must be kept moist but not wet until the seedlings emerge. This may take between 1-3 weeks, depending on the plant type. As they grow stronger, thorough but less frequent watering is required to encourage root growth.

o They will need shade when young but should be increasingly exposed to the sun so they become used to conditions in the garden. Water in the morning rather than at night.

o Aim to build your no dig garden at least one week before you are ready to transplant. That will give it time to settle.

Transplanting vegetable seedlings

o Mark where you plan to put each of your plants. Use a trowel to make a hole large enough to take the root system.

o Have the soil in the seedlings' containers damp enough so that the soil clings to the roots of each plant as much as possible.

o Gently prise or tip out each vegetable seedling from its container taking as much of the soil as you can with it into the garden bed.

o Firm the soil around the plant in its new position, cover the area with mulch and water in gently. Initially leave a small gap between the mulch and seedlings so that rot does not set in when the plants are so young and tender.

o It is best to transplant seedlings in the late afternoon or evening to give the plants time to settle before being subjected to midday sun.

Vegetables in a tropical country (1)

There are a lot of typical 'tropical vegetables'. Many of these vegetables can be seen more and more on markets in Europe, Australia or North-America. Especially the last ten years.One of the main reasons for the increasing interest for tropical vegetables in Western Europe, is the presence of the multicultural societies in these countries.  Still, there are some vegetables which are still specific for the local markets in tropical countries like the Philippines.

 

Vegetables and their specific qualities (click on the thumbnail to view the full picture)

C Calabasa C

Calabasas (English: Squash) is a vegetable that is cultivated throughout the whole Philippines. It can be cooked with or without the skin. The colour of the skin can vary from green to yellow. The colour of the flesh is a deep yellowy-orange. The taste is (soft) sweet. Some people use the calabasa to make a cake. Calabasa is rich in

vitamin A.

G Gabi G

Gabi (English: Taro) is a tuberous plant. It's a root crop. The tubers (roots) differ in color and size. A seize of about 30 cm long, is possible. The flesh inside is white.  The taste of both leaves and tuber is acid. Cooking (with the skin removed) or baking takes this

acid taste away. It is a native vegetable of India and parts of South-East Asia. The leaves are used in soups and stews, the cooked tuber is consumed as  sweets,

desserts or used in vegetable dishes.

K Kamote K

Kamote (English: Sweet Potato).    In the colonial period  the Kamote was introduced to the Philippines by the Spaniards. They brought the plant from tropical America.

A Kamote plant can produce several tubers. The tubers vary in colour, size and shape. The taste is sweet. The boiled potato is often eaten with  salty fish or little shrimps.

Practically the entire plant can be used for food or feed. The leaves are often used as a salad or as addition to stewed meals with other vegetables. Fish, fresh or dried, often

completes a meal with Kamote leaves.

K Kamunggay K

Kamunggay. This  is one of the frequently eaten and  cheap vegetables. The plant is a about 1.50 meter high. It's a  small tree with tuberous roots and fern-like foliage.

Kamunggay is often used in meals with chicken or fish and other vegetables.

Kamoting Kahoy or Cassava is a very well known plant in the tropics all over the world. The plant grows very tall.  It can reach sometimes to 15 feet. The tuber (root)  grows up to 2 ft long or even longer. There is cassava in two varieties; a sweet and a

bitter variety. The difference between the two is the absence or presence of toxic levels of cyanide in the root! Therefore,

it is not recommended to eat cassava uncooked! The sweet Cassava is almost free of  the acid. The cassava is eaten

boiled, steamed or roasted.  It is consumed especially in the rural areas.  It is partially a substitute for rice in the diets. Both cassava varieties may be used to produce a kind of flour. It is

also prepared as a sweet snack, after it is mixed  with coconut, coconut milk and sugar. The bitter cassava needs special

preparation through pressure and heating to make it safe to eat.

K Kangkong K

Kangkong is a spinach. There are two common types. One type is growing on land and one type grows near waterways and ponds. You can distinguish the two types by their

leaves. The land-grown type has long, narrow leaves with pointed ends. The water- grown Kangkong has  broader (blunt) leaves.

The shoot tips and leaves are eaten fresh or lightly cooked.   Usually the vegetable is used as an ingredient in stews, sometimes as a  dish on its own.

Kangkong has  known qualities for your health!Kangkong is recommended to strengthen the body's resistance to cancer. Nutrients in kangkong are Vitamins A and C. Moreover, it is also rich in minerals, especially iron. Because of its high iron content, the vegetable is recommended  to patients suffering

from anemia.

L Labong L

Labong are bamboo shoots. Bamboo shoots are young, new canes. They are harvested before they are two weeks old. In length, they are at maximum one foot tall. The young shoots of bamboo  are common vegetables in  the whole region of Pacific Asia. Bamboo shoots are added to salads, soup and vegetable dish. Take care! Raw bamboo shoots are bitter tasting if not peeled and boiled for 20 minutes. They should be boiled leaving the pan uncovered, in that way the bitterness  can escape into the air.

Bamboo shoots have healthy qualities.

Vegetable fiber derived from Bamboo  has very few calories, is tasteless and is white in color. Bamboo fiber helps keeping cholesterol levels in check and should help in preventing colon cancer, they help moreover to maintain blood pressure and a steady heart beat.

Vegetables in a tropical country(3)

 Vegetables and their specific qualities(click on the thumbnail to view the full picture)

O Okra O

The Okra-plant can reach  a height of 3 to 6 feet. Sometimes the plant is used in backyard gardens as an ornamental plant. The vegetable is used for soups and stews or as a fried or boiled vegetable.Okra is well known because of its healthy qualities. The valuable nutrients of the okra is evident. 50 % is soluble. Soluble fibre helps to lower cholesterol and  reduces the risk of heart disease. The other 50% of the vegetable (insoluble fibre) helps to decrease  the risk of some forms of cancer. Moreover, nearly 10% of the recommended levels of vitamin B6  are also present in half cup of cooked okra! The vegetable is consumed with other vegetables and fish or meat.

P Paliya P

Paliya (Ampalaya). Because of the taste it is well known as "bitter melon". It is eaten with meat and

other vegetables.The vegetable is well known because of its

medicinal value especially against HIV/AIDS. Local people think that 'the bitter this vegetable is, the

more medicinal value it has'.  Even the Department of Health of the Philippines, has

recommended this herbal  vegetable as very helpful with HIV, liver problems and Diabetes. The leaves

of the plant are often used for children's coughs. Paliya is also used in the treatment of skin

diseases and the sterility in women.

P Pechay P

Pechay (Pak Choi) is a cabbage. It is one of the most known vegetables in the Philippines. It is also

known as one of the oldest green vegetables in Asia. The Pechay differs in many aspects from other

(for instance European) cabbages. The leaves of the Pechay vary in length from 10 to 30 cm. The

leaves are green and mild flavoured and less crisp than other cabbages.

It is often used in stews and soups. It isn't tasty by itself, so it needs some salt and other flavour to be added. Meals with Pechay are often completed

with other vegetables and fish or meat.

S Sitaw S

Sitaw (English: String beans, in the Cebuano language: Batong). These 'long beans'  are  not

cooked as a whole long bean, but before cooking broken into pieces of  3-4 inches. The taste is a very

little bit sweet. A mix with meat, fish, other vegetables,  is always a delicious meal.

T Talong T

Talong (English: Eggplant). The fruit is long, thin and has a purple colour. The size can differ. The

taste of purple fruit is tasty or, as some say, rather smooth. It is a fruit but eaten as a

vegetable. Many times the Talong is cut open in one piece, backed together with eggs, fish or meat and completed with other vegetables. Many people

like it in this way as a kind of an omelette.

Vegetables in a tropical country

 (3)

Many of the tropical vegetables and tropical fruit can be bought on the American and European markets last years. Not all however!

Which of the tropical vegetables below, found on the Philippine markets, will be 'for sale' on your home market?

 

Vegetables for sale

AmpalayaBitter Melon

SigarilyisWinged Bean

SitaoSnake Bean

ChicaroSweet Pea

PatolaRidged Luffa

BaguioChinese Cabbage

KinchaiChinese Celery

KutsayGarlic Chives

TangladLemon Grass

KondolHairy Melon

LabanosWhite Radish

PatolaSmooth Luffa

Images of Ampalaya, Sigarilyis, Sitao, Chicaro, Patola, Baguio, Kinchai, Kutsay, Tanglad, Kondol, Labanos, Patola NRE, 2002

(click on the thumbnails to view the full picture)