How to Build an NFT System

8/8/2019 How to Build an NFT System

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How to build an NFT system

NFT stands for nutrient film technique. The idea behind the system is

that when plants are suspended in fence post or pvc then the nutrient

solution is pump from a reservoir and set inside the plastic fence post

and set to mist on the roots. Then the water runoff goes back down the

plastic fence post, back into the reservoir. It is quite simple method

because the reservoir is separated from the plants so it makes it easier

to maintain. So get into what all we need.

PVC PIPE and PIECES


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Theses are the pieces we need to build the system then we start

construction.

I will have to explain these steps but it is fairly simple is you try to look

at it and figure it out. With this method you only veg the plants untilthey are 12in tall then force them into flowering. They grow estimated

3ft at the end so they arent very tall. But they are really bushy and look

like little Christmas trees with high yield because more light gets to the

bottom branches.


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here is an estimate on the closet size it looks about right maybe eight

feet is too long im not sure. I really want you to look into doing this its

called a NFT system if you want to google it. Add nft grow and do an

image search on google. I want to know soon if you want to start so call

me later today or tomorrow.

How to Build a Flood and Drain system


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Article 1-1 Flood & Drain Systems

FLOOD AND DRAIN SYSTEMSAnswer: These irrigation systems are based on a very simple concept: plants grow in individual rockwool

blocks in a large shallow tray. The tray is flooded with nutrient solution until the rockwool cubes and roots

are wet, then the tray is drained to allow air back into the cubes. Rockwool soaks up the food and water like

a sponge, so irrigation generally takes only a few minutes at a time. Gravity draws excess water from the

cubes and keeps the roots healthy.The simplicity of this system lends itself to many uses in horticulture. Large-scale commercial propagation

systems using the flood and drain concept are becoming more common every day, since crops rooted inrockwool blocks can be transplanted to potting soil, hydrocorn, larger rockwool blocks, and even nutrient

flow (NFT) and aeroponic systems.Flood tables have also become popular for intensive crop production of shorter crop plants (to about a

meter tall). Herbs, flowering ornamental crops (miniature roses, poinsettias) and even cherry tomato plantswork well in this garden system.Indoor growers working with short crop plants find this system very productive gardening under lights,

especially with horizontal shades for intense light levels. Since the crop grows directly under the lamps,

and virtually all the light is directed down onto the crop, the need for reflective material on walls is

eliminated. Instead of crowding crops into the corner of a room in a desperate effort to capture light lost by

inefficient reflectors, these tables work better placed in an open area for easier temperature control andgreater air movement through the crop. Open sides makes it easy to maintain the garden. Remember that

better air movement through the garden can mean fewer pest and disease problems, too!Although the system is simple, successful growing is based on careful planning and preparation, since

everything is growing so fast! A 4' x 8' garden might hold 20-30 small bushes, using one or two 1000 watt

lamps with horizontal reflectors. Two or three 16" oscillating fans move air through the garden towards a

"Dayton" 465 CFM or 550 CFM exhaust fan, which carries the hot air away from the garden.

A 20 to 30 gallon reservoir under the flood table holds the nutrient solution. A "Little Giant" (1 AT) waterpump in the reservoir moves the food up through a short length of 1/2" polyhose to a "bulk head" fitting in

the table. The nutrient mix is pumped up into the table until the cubes are completely watered (usuallyunder 1O minutes), then the pump is shut off and nutrients drain back to the reservoir. Use an air pump (4.2

PSI air pressure ) with 2" or 3 12" air stones to aerate the nutrient solution in the reservoir.

FLOOD TABLE ASSEMBLY


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Irrigation and drainage:A single 3/4" poly hose

supplies nutrients from the

reservoir to the plants on the

flood table. Drill a 1" hole in

the flood table, in one of the

flat areas on the bottom of thetray (and through the plywood

support for the table).

y Insert a 3/4"bulkhead fitting

(thru- hull) throughthe hole, with the

threaded end pointing

down. (use 2washers- one on the

inside of the tray, and

one underneath).

y Tighten the bulkheadnut onto the bulkheadsecurely.

y Push one end of the3/4" poly hose onto

the bulkhead fitting,

and connect the otherend of the hose to the

pump in the

reservoir. Shorten the

hose if necessary toavoid crimping or

bending the hose.

y Fill the reservoir withnutrient solution,plug in the pump and

flood the table to

check for leaks.

Check where the

bulkhead is

connected to the

table, and where the

3/4" hose fits on thebulkhead.

y When the pump isshut off, the nutrientsolution should drain

back to the reservoir.

Gardening With The 'Flood and Drain' SystemsFlood tables. are ideal for intensive, high-yield cultivation of short crops (plants to one meter tall).

We'll describe the use of this system with 4" 'Grodan' rockwool blocks, but gardeners have used

other grow mediums (hydro-corn in net pots for example) successfully too. The main differences in

using hydro-corn are in frequency of irrigation and in use of an opaque cover. For the table (6mil.

black and white poly works fine) to protect roots growing out of the net pots from the heat and light

of the lamps. Let's look at a typical cycle of crop production using the flood table. We'll consider


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the three stages of growth on this table: the transition stage associated with transplanting cuttings

into the 4" cubes, the "green growth" stage, and crop production stage.

TRANSITION STAGEDuring this growth stage, rooted cuttings or seedlings growing in small rockwool cubes (mm 40-40

'Grodan' cubes) are transplanted to prepared 4" Grodan rockwool blocks and placed on the table. The

purpose of this stage is:

y To develop new roots into the larger blocks.

y To allow the plants to gradually adjust to 'green growth' conditions.

Remember that we are dealing with very young plants. They have small root systems in the starter cubes;they've been growing under low light levels they've had very mild fertilizers and low levels of air

movement.

CONDITION STAGEOur goal is to progress as quickly as possible in conditioning the transplants to handle the intense growing

conditions of their 'green growth' stage by gradually increasing light levels, nutrient strength, etc. It isimportant to make the transition stage go smoothly, with no set-backs to the crop. This is a good time to

develop "two-way communication" with your plants. Of course plants can't talk, but they do use 'bodylanguage'! Growers who learn to recognize the signals plants give off will garden very successfully. For

example, if you raise light levels to the crop by moving lamps closer, you'll watch plants closely to see their

reaction. If they all wilt, raise the lamps back to their original height and try again when they have better

root systems established. Dealing with living things can be very challenging, but once you know your

crop's likes and dislikes, it will be easier each time you repeat this stage.

Transition Stage - Activities

1. Prepare the reservoir:

y Use 20-30 gallons of water in reservoir.y Mix a mild 'green growth' fertilizer solution: (Nutrient strength 600-800 PPM; pH 6-7)

Temperature 21C = 70FConnect air stones to air pump with clear air hose, place stones in fertilizer reservoir and plug in

the air pump to aerate nutrient solution.If reservoir is cold (e.g. sitting on concrete floor) use an aquarium heater in the solution to

maintain proper nutrient temperature 68 - 72.

2. Transplant into 4" blocks:

y Prepare 4" Grodan blocks using PL 4.5 water solution. Soak 24 hours, rinse well. Removeprotective plastic wrappers from small (mm40-40) propagation cubes and plant into the large holes

of the 4" blocks.

y Leave wrappers on 4" blocks.y Put plants onto table, spacing them evenly.

3. Feed the plants:

y Turn on the pump and flood the table to soak cubes with nutrients (about 10-15 minutes).y Shut off pump to drain the table

4. Set up lighting:

y A single 1000 watt lamp and reflector gives adequate light for 20-30 new transplants.y Position lamp about one meter above plants. Turn on lamp and monitor temperature closely. Best

temperature for new transplants: 23C = 75F.

5. Establish air movement above plants:

yA single 16" oscillating fan will do for these young plants. Do not blow air directly onto plants!You'll overwork their small root systems!

y Set up oscillating fan 2 - 3 feet (up to one meter) away from table.y Raise fan on stand so air is moving above the transplants.y Leave fan running 24 hours a day.

6. Set up exhaust fan:

y Use exhaust fan at far end of garden from oscillating fans. Run exhaust fan 24 hours a day.7. Hang or mount thermometer at top of plants:

y Watch temperature closely.


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y Maintain 23C - 75F during light cycle.8. Shut off Lamps after 18 Hours of Lighting: maintain cooler temperature during the 6 hour dark

period: (18C = 65F best.)

9. Maintain moderate growing conditions:

y Monitor progress of your crops as you gradually increase light levels, food strength, etc. Signs thatplants are adapting to new conditions are:

yIncreased root growth into 4" blocks. . Roots start to grow out bottom of 4" blocks.

y New top growth and branching.y within 7-10 days, your crop should be actively growing in full light levels, with full food

strength (1600-1800 PPM) green growth fertilizer mix. You are now into green growth

stage!Properly watered new transplants likely won't need irrigation for 2-3 days or longer! If plants look

healthy and rockwool is still damp, don't water or feed!

GREEN GROWTH STAGE1. Establish good growing conditions:

Lighting:

y One or two 1000 watt lamps with horizontal reflectors - directly over the crop, about 18 inches ( .5meter ) above the plants.

y Exact lamp height above the plants is determined by temperature. Position a thermometer so it'slevel with the top of the plants, then raise or lower lamps until the thermometer shows the correctgrowing temperature (30C - 85F).

Nutrients:

y Nutrient strength 1600-1800 PPM (parts per million). -pH: 5.5-6.5y Nutrient temperature: 21C = 70F.;

Air Movement:

y Use two 16" oscillating fans to move fresh air through the garden. Position the fans about .5 meter(about 18" to 24" away from the table, and direct air flow through the garden towards the exhaust

fan.

y Use oscillating and exhaust fans 24 hours a day.Watering and Feeding:

y Don't overwater! Most crops will only need to be fed once every 2 - 3 days. If plants look healthyand rockwool is still damp, don't irrigate your crop yet!

y Your nutrient solution was started at the beginning of the transition stage, and you've added morenutrients to increase food strength to 1600-1800 PPM. Drain and replace nutrients after 17 days.Monitor plant health and height:

y Check underside of leaves for signs of spider mites and eggs. Check every plant!y Use 'sticky cards' to check for signs of flying insects.y Handle pest problems immediately! -Raise lamps as crops grow to maintain correct temperature

(30C - 85F). -When plants reach 10" -12" (.3 meter), consider changing to crop production

stage.

CROP PRODUCTION STAGE

1. Summer (Long Day) crops: For 'long day' crops such as miniature roses, basil, bush tomatoes

y Continue 18 hour days, 30C temperature.y Change to 'flowering and crop production' fertilizer mixy Nutrient strength: 1200 -1400 PPM.

2. Autumn (Short Day) Crops: For 'short day' crops such as chrysanthemums, poinsettias:y Reduce 'daytime' temperature to 27C = 80F. Gradually reduce light hours to shorten day length

from 18 to 12 hours.

y Use 'autumn' light (high pressure sodium, 'compatible' sodium lamps).y Change to flower nutrients formula.y 'Dark period' temperature: 15-1 8C (60-65F).

How to Build an NFT System

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