How to become a model

33
How do I get started in Modeling? Getting Started How does one get started in modeling? There is no one way for a person to get started. Different models have reached success through different routes. If one wants to become a doctor there is a set course of schooling, experience and testing, but for modeling there is no clear path. We do know of some of the ways models have gotten started in the past. This is by no means an exhaustive list but it might help in your efforts to launch a career in modeling. Front Door - Go to the Source The bulk of the work in modeling is booked through Modeling Agencies. So literally go to the front door of the modeling agency. This is the number one way for a wannabe to start. You have to do some research to find where the modeling agency door is, locally or other big city, and that they are no SCAM AGENCY. You can approach a modeling agency through their open call, schedule an interview or by submitting a cover letter and photographs. Give them a call or email them and ask how they want new talent to contact them. There is no reason to try another way of getting started until you have been turned down at the front door. Know Someone Some models get started because they have an in. You hear stories of someone who has a friend who models and goes to a photo shoot with them and is then discovered by the photographer. Some might have an aunt who modeled or runs an agency and helps to get them started. Others might work in a related field and one day finds them not working beside the camera but in front of it. In smaller markets child models are most often used because they are an art director's, buyer's, or photographer's kid. Knowing someone in the business can help a lot in getting a career in modeling started.

Transcript of How to become a model

Page 1: How to become a model

How do I get started in Modeling?

Getting Started

How does one get started in modeling? There is no one way for a person to get started. Different models have reached success through different routes. If one wants to become a doctor there is a set course of schooling, experience and testing, but for modeling there is no clear path. We do know of some of the ways models have gotten started in the past. This is by no means an exhaustive list but it might help in your efforts to launch a career in modeling.

Front Door - Go to the SourceThe bulk of the work in modeling is booked through Modeling Agencies. So literally go to the front door of the modeling agency. This is the number one way for a wannabe to start. You have to do some research to find where the modeling agency door is, locally or other big city, and that they are no SCAM AGENCY. You can approach a modeling agency through their open call, schedule an interview or by submitting a cover letter and photographs. Give them a call or email them and ask how they want new talent to contact them. There is no reason to try another way of getting started until you have been turned down at the front door.

Know SomeoneSome models get started because they have an in. You hear stories of someone who has a friend who models and goes to a photo shoot with them and is then discovered by the photographer. Some might have an aunt who modeled or runs an agency and helps to get them started. Others might work in a related field and one day finds them not working beside the camera but in front of it. In smaller markets child models are most often used because they are an art director's, buyer's, or photographer's kid. Knowing someone in the business can help a lot in getting a career in modeling started.

The FatesModeling agencies are in fact constantly looking for new talent. This is very true in fashion modeling. This segment of modeling is composed mostly of young models. By the time a model is thirty their career is over. There is always a need to find the next generation of models. Because of this need for new talent, folks involved with modeling agencies are looking for new talent. This can be modeling agencies' personnel (owner, booker), photographers, art directors, and of course the "model scouts." Some agencies are in fact large enough to employ an individual who is just out looking for that next generation of new talent or to fill new needs of a client. Unfortunately, the term "model scout" is being used more often by rip off organizations, web space salesmen and scoundrels, so one is correct in being suspicious of anyone calling them selves a model scout. But there are numerous stories of models being discovered at the mall, on the beach, or other public place. So if you hope to start your career in modeling by waiting for the fates to smile on you, plan on spending a lot of time hanging in out in public places.

Hard workSome models do work their way into modeling (I have also heard from models that modeling is hard work and all models work their way into the business). These models track down tests

Page 2: How to become a model

shoots and put together their comp cards and portfolios. They study and practice being a model by working on their expressions, posing, runway walking, hair styling, make up, working in front of a camera, and how the business works. These models may work freelance or have nonexclusive contracts with a number of modeling agencies. In smaller regional markets, where agencies do not have the resources to develop new talent, an agency might not work with a model until they have developed their skills and marketing materials. If you enjoy the process of modeling and doing good work, then all of the time and expense that go into this process can be its own reward. If you have to make a living at modeling, you should be sure you meet the basic physical and aptitude requirement of the type of modeling you want to become before you invest your time and money into this process. If you want to be a high fashion model and do not have the size or a look, no amount of hard work will make you a career model.

Try to Buy SuccessThere is a whole industry built around this approach to getting started in modeling. Very few models actually come from this avenue of trying to start a career. This area includes many of the modeling school, modeling camps, model searches, Internet listing services, modeling contest, modeling conventions, and pageants. This is not to say that these activities can't be interesting, educational and fun. Most of these organizations will take on and take money from almost anyone who wants to be a model. This leads to a very low percentage of career models who actually come from these activities. Most of these organizations survive by playing on people’s dreams, ignorance, and pocket books and not by finding and developing top modeling talent. But in spite of this sometimes someone does make it and this is what these organizations feature in their sales pitches and videos.

What are the height and size requirements for a high fashion model?This does seem to be the burning question. The general guidelines for women are; 5'6" to 6', around a size 3, 34B-24-34, and between 14-21 years of age. For men around 6' (a couple of inches over or under,) size 40R. Are there exceptions to this? You bet. Is it fair? No. Are there petite sizes and plus sizes? Yes. Do commercial, glamour, acting, or smaller markets care anything about these sizes? Not much. Only if you want to work high fashion in the major markets, like New York, are these numbers important.

Are there jobs for models who specialize in just parts of the body?Yes. Hand models are often hard to find especially when you need one. It has been my experience that many models will have photogenic faces and good bodies but their hands and feet can be just horrid. Often times you will use one person for the face and have a hand model reaching into the picture to provide the hands. Of course the photographer makes it look like one person but in fact there are two. With jewelry photography we look for good hands, nice neck, and ears. A good ear is very hard to find as they have to be shaped just right, the skin has to be very smooth, and you want them pierced for only one earring not 25. Unfortunately, paying jobs for jewelry modeling seldom come along. It is best to find other industries that need good-looking body parts. Parts models follow similar career paths as regular models. So if you are interested in this type of modeling read through the Modeling Advice section of this site.

How much do models make?

Page 3: How to become a model

What you hear about is the fabulous big bucks that super models make. Out of all the models in the world, only a handful of them make this top dollar. Their yearly income can be in the millions. But for most models it will be far less, assuming you get any work at all. As a general rule for markets outside of New York, modeling fees will be in the range of photographer's fees. For a market like Portland, Oregon, the last I check modeling agencies were asking $150 an hour. As you move to larger markets fees for photographers and models will go up (I saw one agency in New York asking $250 per hour) This may not bring you the big bucks of a super model but it will give you a good living if you can find steady work. And that is a big "if".

Can a modeling agency tell just from a snap shot if I have what it takes to be a model?Yes and No. One of the normal screening practices for modeling agencies is to have you send a couple of snap shots of yourself, usually a head and shoulder shot and a full-length body shot in a bathing suit or tight clothes. From these snap shots some say they can tell if you have what it takes for modeling. They say, "Don't spend money on getting photos taken, a Polaroid by your friend is just fine".

To respond to the "yes" part of this question requires that you send to the modeling agency good, clear, properly exposed, properly composed and with you properly positioned photographs. They can use these photos as a screening tool. This means that if they have an opening for someone with your look, they will be interested in meeting with you in person to see if, in fact, you look like your picture. This does not necessarily mean you have or do not have what it takes to be a model. It just gets you an interview and maybe on to a test shoot.

To respond to the "no" part of the question means most people send bad pictures, or they may look great but you don't meet the agency's needs at that moment or the agent guessed wrong. When they talk about sending a simple snap shot, they are actually looking for at least an advance amateur level of photography or a wannabe professional photographer level. Having taught photography for a number of years, I can say that most beginners have problems with exposure, focus, and composition, let alone knowing how to position you to look your best. You may not want to trust your career to your best friend's ability as a photographer unless they know something about photography.

Normally you will want to try several modeling agencies to see if they are interested in you. One agency may be full of blue eyed blondes while another may have none and need someone. Some of this is just being in the right place at the right time.

Also, we all have our war stories of getting it wrong. One agency or photographer may say someone does not have what it takes and then they go to another agency and become a star. I remember photographing a young 14-year-old, Jody, who I thought just didn't have the classic beauty look and told her I doubted if she would accomplish much in this field. Fortunately, she did not listen to me. She started working out, kept up her modeling and beauty work, switched over to the pageant side of things and became Miss Oregon. I was way off on that call. I think the initial snap shot, interview, and test shot are just screening processes to find those who would have an easier time in modeling. Some special few may still find some measure of success in modeling by hard work and developing special talents. They won't become superstars but they can find enjoyment and financial rewards pursuing a modeling career.

Page 4: How to become a model

Are modeling conventions and searches a good place to start a modeling career or are they a total rip-off?I do not know. I have never personally been to one of these events (nor are any of them asking me to come and check them out) and I have not seen any 60 Minutes type investigation on them. I have looked over their web sites and I have seen endless chat rooms where they are called the biggest rip-offs out there. I do not know of any top models (all though I do know of one TV actress discovered at IMTA) that have come from conventions and searches and you would think with how many are put on that all models would come from them. I do know for what some of these organizations charge, you could fly to New York, stay for week and do open calls at every top agency. Personally, I think they are not a very good investment and there are better ways to get discovered, but that is strictly my opinion.

Why is everyone giving different advice on modeling?Remember the story of the three blind men describing an elephant. One man felt the trunk, another the tail and the third the leg. Each had a different description of what the elephant was like. The modeling industry is the same way. The modeling industry is big with many specialties. What I have experienced is quite different from what fashion photographer Richard Avidon experienced. And what he has experienced is quite different from what glamour photographer Jeff Dumes has. And what we all have experienced is quite different from what the modeling agencies are going to tell you.

Another part that leads to different views on the industry is that we are all small business people - each one running their own business in their own way, and hopefully better than the competition. This leads to a lot of different ideas of how things work and how things should be done. It can also lead to confusion and present opportunities for con-artists. There is a set way to become a doctor, there is, however, no set way to become a model. This leaves the door open for the "expert" to "guarantee" to make you a top model for only a small, non-refundable fee. Watch out and try to educate yourself on the many parts of the modeling industry.

The Agency You hear that all the top models have great agencies, and you think, "If I can only sign with a modeling agency I will be set." But what exactly is a modeling agency and what does it do? This is not an easy question to answer. Modeling agencies operate as small independent business with no two agencies working the same. A lot depends on the market in which an agency operates and the owner(s) and agency's personnel. The other problem with describing a modeling agency is that there are a lot of rip-off and scam agencies out there. Because most wannabe models know little about how the modeling business works, they are easy prey for these vultures. We can look at what an agency might be at its best and worst and what they can do for your career as a model.

A modeling agency's number one purpose is to find the model work. They work as the model's representative or agent. As an agent they seek and negotiate contracts of employment for the model or talent who is an independent business. For finding the model work, they take a percent of what the model makes (10% to 33%). In some states they are considered private employment

Page 5: How to become a model

agencies and must be licensed by the state. That sounds fairly simple and straightforward, but it is amazing how it can vary.

New YorkNew York City is the number one city for models. It is the heart of the fashion and advertising industries in the United States, which leads to a high demand for all types of models. The modeling agencies in New York compete to fill that demand with the finest talent in the nation. When an agency sees someone who has potential or someone who satisfies the demand, they will invest in that individual to get him/her ready for the market. They don't do this to be nice people - they do it because they feel they can make money from that person. They know the market and they will invest in you (a loan against future earnings) to prepare you for that market. If they guess wrong and you do not become marketable and profitable, they will cut their losses and drop you. The top agencies are working with big-budget ad agencies and fashion designers so there is money available to develop new talent. These top agencies will help train you (more like on the job training), get you test shoots, layout your portfolio, and put together comp cards and other printed materials you need. They take care of finding you work, booking the jobs, bill for the jobs and eventually cut a check for the work you do. Once you are in an agency like this all you have to worry about is following instructions and modeling.

ElsewhereWithin a secondary market, the modeling agencies are not working with big budget clients like New York. In some cities there may be enough work that an agency can be a full time operation - perhaps even supporting a few people on staff but there is not enough work to pay for the development of new talent. For this type of agency you must provide the marketing tools and training. The agency may help you with where to go to get photos, composites and training, but they can't afford to pay for it or loan you money. There just isn't enough budget for them to guess wrong even once. So it is up to you to foot the bill. This is fine if the agency is really out there looking for work for its models and there is enough of a market to make a living. The problem I have found with some of these agencies is that they have no idea what they are doing. They are having a great time playing at being a modeling agency, but you could do better marketing yourself.

What if you do find a good agency, what will they do for you? A good agency will help manage your career and find you work. In big cities this can be split into two parts, managers and bookers. The manager will help you develop your "look", your modeling skills, and develop your natural talents. They will help in preparing your marketing materials for the market in which they think you will be most successful. They should have knowledge of the market place and will honestly evaluate your potential for that market. They should have contacts so they can send you to photographers, graphic designers and printers to prepare your marketing materials. They should have the means to prepare you to be a model. The booking side is where the agency tracks down who uses models. The agency has a phone that is manned and an office that a client can visit. They make the rounds to keep in touch with those who use models and provide them with composites and head sheets of their talent. They advertise, do lunches, do cold calls and turn over stones to find who is hiring models. They book time for models to work, give direction to get there and make sure models show up. They handle billing, collections, and complaints. A

Page 6: How to become a model

good agency finds you work and earns every cent of their commission (usually 15% to 33%). But, in smaller markets, they are a rarity.Further on down the ladder you find agencies in markets that are too small to support a full time modeling agency. In these markets the modeling school is usually the full time moneymaker and the agency is just a hook. If you finish the school you get to be in the agency. This can be fine if you like to play at modeling and have the money to do so. In most cases if your city has a population of less then a million it will not be able to support a full time agency. Even in a city of a million you may be better off marketing yourself than working with a so-so agency. When you get to a city with a population of a couple million or more there may be just too much ground to cover and an agency can be very helpful.

How do you find a modeling agency?I have links to sites that have lists of modeling agencies on my Modeling Agencies links page. Since Modeling Agencies want to be easy-to-find, you should also be able to locate them in your local yellow pages. If you find one in your area, you will want to contact them to see what their new model screening process is. Some may have you send a couple of snap shots to them. Others might have an open call where they have all new wannabes show up at once to be evaluated. Others might schedule an interview time for you. All work differently, so call to find out first. Also, be sure to check out the agencies you find with the Better Business Bureau to see if they have any complaints against them. And don't be pressured into signing anything right away. If they offer a contract or want you to sign up for a class, ask if you can take the contract with you and you will get back to them in a few days. Be sure to read over the Modeling Scams information and watch for any of the warning signs.

This same process of finding a modeling agency also applies if you are looking for one in a major market like New York. Check the link page for links to sites with directories of modeling agencies. Many of the top New York modeling agencies have web sites and some are listed on the link page. Some even allow you to email photos and your vital stats to them.

Checking out a Modeling AgencyA certain mystery surrounds the modeling industry. How does one become a top model? There is no clear-cut answer to that question. Because of this mystery and uncertainty, a great deal of room exists in which a scam artist can work. Since a modeling agency is often the key to becoming a successful model, this is where many scams take place. How do you find a legitimate modeling agency? There is no easy answer.

First, there is no rating service for modeling agencies; there is no governmental authority; there is no licensing organization to tell you which agency is legitimate and which is not. Most agencies are small, independent businesses working in a very competitive market place. These seem to be in constant flux with new ones starting, old ones merging, and some closing up shop. This makes it a real challenge to find just a legitimate agency, let alone a good agency.

The following are some ideas on how to find and then check out a modeling agency in your area:

Page 7: How to become a model

1) To find the modeling agencies in your area you can check the yellow pages of the phone book under Modeling Agencies. Remember that a modeling agency wants to be easy to find so a phone listing is a must. From the agencies' listings you may find they are often, also, modeling schools. If there are no agencies listed for your area, you may have to check with the closest large city. If some one approaches you and says they are a scout for some agency and you can't find them in the phone book, be very skeptical. Also, check out some of the model agency directories listed on the Modeling Agencies Links page to see what is in your area.

2) Check with the Better Business Bureau. They may have information on the modeling agencies you are interested in or complaints against them. Usually an agency has to be pretty bad for the BBB to have anything. Businesses that are bad businesses, or new scams, won't show up. When I checked on modeling businesses in the Portland area, I found that all of the modeling schools were members of BBB, the legitimate agencies were not, and the one known scam agency did not show any complaints. The BBB is not a perfect source for information, but it is a place to start. You will find many regional BBBs have web sites on which you can find information.

3) One thing I like to do to check out agencies is to call them after business hours. I can find out fast which agencies are trying to be legitimate businesses. The idea behind this is that modeling is a very competitive, fast moving business and things don't just happen 9 to 5. If, I, as a photographer, have an emergency come up after business hours (a cancellation, a client who has to shoot tomorrow and will pay anything to do it) I need to be able to contact someone now or I am down the road to another agency. A good agency knows this and you will find, when you call them after hours, they will have an answering machine or service that will give you an emergency number to call (a cell phone or pager). If you find the machine just tells you to call back during business hours or they have no after hour answering service at all, look for another agency.

4) The best way, which takes the most work, to find a good agency in your area is by studying and researching your market. If you follow the local news media (newspaper, TV), there is a good chance information on local agencies will show up. This past year the Portland newspaper had articles on a local girl who was discovered and went off to Europe to model (the article gave the name of the local agency that signed her) and a new face modeling contest the paper put on (the judges were from three local modeling agencies and the article gave the name of the agency and the contact at the agency). One of the local TV news stations did a story on a rip-off modeling agency and interviewed people from some of the legitimate agencies. In one year of just following the news (which you should be doing anyway to be an informed voter), I was able to find three legitimate agencies and one scam agency.

5) Another method of researching the local market takes even more work - follow the local fashion print advertising. When you start to see which stores use local models regularly, you can start making phone calls. Call the store and find out who handles the advertising. You can hope that the person at the store who does this can direct you to their advertising agency, their photographer, or may even direct you to the modeling agency they use. Basically, you

Page 8: How to become a model

are making phone calls to trace your way to a modeling agency supplying the models for the store ads. This will lead you to an agency with working models. I hate making cold calls like this myself, but this can be an effective way to find a modeling agency. Then again, if you can make cold calls like this, you may want to forget the modeling and become a photography rep!

Modeling Agency ContractsThere are three styles of contracts that you typically will run across. Some modeling agencies will work with exclusive contracts. This means that they are your exclusive representatives and they get a commission on any work you do. They get this commission whether they find the work or you find it on your own. If you sign this kind of contract; be sure the agency is really going to be working for you. If they are providing a lot of guidance getting your career started and are out there beating the bushes to find work for you, this type of contract is fine. If the agency signs you just to fill space in their roster and then leaves you hanging in limbo for the length of your contract (usually one to two years) it can be a bad way to try and start a career. Another type of contract is a non-exclusive modeling contract. In this case if the modeling agency finds you work, they get paid their commission. If you find work on your own you pay them nothing. You are free to sign non-exclusive contracts with other modeling agencies. This way you might have several agencies representing you at once. Now don't expect the same service and help from a non-exclusive agency as with an exclusive agency. In smaller markets, where you are expected to provide all of your training, portfolios, composites and other marketing materials before an agency will work with you, signing an exclusive contract is a kind of a rip-off.

The final contract is a Mother Agency Agreement. I have not seen one of these so I am not sure how they make it legally binding but you do hear about them. In this case the modeling agency knows there is not enough work locally to support any one over the long term. Their position then is to move you on to a major market and get you signed with a major modeling agency. They may get you work locally but it is more with the idea of getting you ready for the major market. For helping prepare you and helping to place you with a top modeling agency, they get a percent of your earnings for a long time to come. You, in essence, never leave the mother agency - you are just loaned out to the top agencies. This can be an attractive arrangement if the mother agency invests time and money in your career and gets you on with top money making agencies. The trouble comes when this gets attached to a modeling school. You not only have to pay for all of the classes, the photo shoots, the career guidance session; you then must keep paying these people again for doing nothing. You need to examine these agreements very carefully before you sign.

What does it take tobe a Professional Model In the '50s, '60s, and '70s a female model had to be about 5' 9" and a certain dress size. Men were something like 6 foot and a 40 regular. Of course you had to be beautiful. The reason for this was that fashion manufacturers made dress and suit samples in one size and it was easier to find a model in that size than to make a sample in a different size. As the plus sizes and petite sizes arrived and super models of varying sizes came on the scene, these old rules had to change some (but not much). At the same time the "fashion look" for a season

Page 9: How to become a model

changed as to what is considered beautiful. One season the look is anorectic drug addict, the next innocent and medieval. I don't think the classic beauty look has been in since the middle eighties. In the secondary fashion markets, the look that might be needed can vary even more. When it comes to commercial modeling, size, look, and age can vary wildly. In a secondary market the more you can vary your look rather than having "a" look, the better your chances of finding work. So, ultimately, it all comes down to three things:

1) Having the look that someone needs (generally the client) for the project they are working on at that time,

2) Making life easier for the art director and the photographer so they will want to work with you, and

3) Making sure the client, photographer, and art director know you exist and want to work.

The first has a lot to do with what you inherited genetically (your looks and talent) and what you have done with them. The second and third are where being a professional model comes in - knowing what to do and how to market yourself. When a project calls for someone attractive to stand next to a new product, the person who can constantly look good in front of the camera, show the emotional expression that is needed on cue, show up on time and leave on time and in so many other ways make the shoot go quickly, efficiently, and successfully, is the person who will get the job. That is also the person who gets asked back the next time. The part after the genetics is what I consider makes a professional model.

Guide lines for what it takes to be a model.Well, all the above is fine but does not give much to go on, so do you have what it takes to be a model? The first thing you have to consider is what type of model do you want be? If you are trying for high fashion modeling, the runways of Paris, the cover of Vogue, etc., the requirements are stricter. If you are hoping to do commercial modeling (such as product or lifestyle) there are much broader requirements. If you want to be a glamour, or pin-up model, it has its own set of requirements.

First Thing to UnderstandAll modeling, except for some glamour, is client driven. There is no need for a model (or for that matter, a photographer) until a client has something to sell (a product, service, or idea). At this point, the client becomes willing to part with the dollars to accomplish his/her sales goal and a model is hired. It is also the size of the potential sales' goals and the model's importance in those goals that determines how much a model is paid (hourly fees and usage). Some types of glamour and stock lifestyle modeling can work differently as the photo itself has a value and the buyer can be found later. So, when we look at different types of modeling we are looking at different classes of clients. As an example, the Fashion Industry has become very dependent on using models in its advertising, promotion, and sales material.

So let consider the job market when considering types of modeling projects and if you can make a living as a model. In a large marketplace like New York there is an enough work in a given category of modeling that a model can specialize. A model can be just a fashion editorial model

Page 10: How to become a model

or fashion catalog model or even a plus size model or a hand model and be able to make a living. In smaller markets one would have to be more versatile to make it. When look at jobs and who can make it as a model I like to view it as a pyramid. The pyramid represents all of the jobs available for a given year and the shape is formed by the requirement for the jobs. The large base is made up of standard fashion jobs, commercial modeling jobs, and the large numbers of other job where they want someone who "looks like a model". Only models who fill the Standard Fashion model requirement (tall, thin, and beautiful) will fill these jobs. As we move up the pyramid and the job pool gets smaller we get to the Plus Size Beautiful models and the Petite Beautiful model. There are fewer fashion jobs available but one can still find commercial jobs (you are of course competing with standard size models for these jobs but size is less important) . As you move further up the pyramid to the Plus Petite Beautiful models and the Older models, the job possibilities get smaller still. And at the top are the Special Beauty, "Real People", and Special Character models. At this top of the pyramid are the jobs that come up once in a blue moon, but are great for modeling schools and model searches to give as examples when giving their pitch that anyone can be a model.

Test Shoots - You Need Photos

Whether you are working with a modeling agency or working freelance you will need photos - photos for your composite, portfolio, and web presence. With a modeling agency, they may try to help you find test shoots. Working independently, you will have to track down your own test shoots.Test shoots or testing has become a generic term for photographic shoots where a model acquires photographs to use for the model's promotional materials. I will elaborate on this further on.

You have two basic goals when doing test shoots. One is to get good quality photos as fast as you can to start getting work. The better quality (more professional and creative) photos you have in your portfolio the better paying jobs you will get. The second is to get experience in front of the camera and learning how to find your way around a studio or location shoot.

Test Shoots - Advice for ModelsMy definition of a Test Shoot (also refereed to as a photographer's test shoot and Time For Prints [TFP] shoot) is when a photographer wants to try out a new creative idea, test some new equipment or film, wants to build the photographer's portfolio, or just wants to practice and figure out how to take pictures, he sets up a photo session. In the case of a fashion or people photographer he needs a warm body to put in front of the lens. This is where the volunteer model comes in. This can work out well for both parties. The photographer does not want to pay for a model and the model does not want to pay for a photographer, so by trading services both get images for their portfolio and gain experience. In some cases the photographer might give you a couple of prints for your services, in other cases you may have to pay for prints. In all cases you will not get the original and don't even ask to borrow them.

There are several problems you will find with this arrangement. A beginning photographer may be eager to do test shoots, but he or she is still learning, so the quality of work may not be that good. You may end up with just so-so prints in your portfolio. In some cases they may forget to

Page 11: How to become a model

take the lens cap off or some other technical problem so you may end up with nothing (of course that can happen to a pro pushing the limits also). In the case of seasoned professional photographers, they are often too busy with paying jobs or burned-out on doing new-model tests to do any test shoots. Thus it might be hard to find someone who is capable of producing good work and wants to do a test shoot with a new model. On the occasion when a seasoned photographer has a burning desire to do something new and creative, he usually turns to a model he already knows and with whom he enjoys working. So for your first goal of getting quality photos fast, free test shoots may not be the best route.

Is it bad or a total waste to do a test shoot with a beginning photographer? No. When you are starting out any chance you have to get in front of the camera and see some results is valuable. It is a chance to gain some experience, try new make-up, poses, expression, wardrobe, and see how the photographer sees you. And once in while you and the beginning photographer may even hit upon something that will produce an outstanding photograph. It seems to happen more by accident then design, but sometimes neat things can happen. For a model this 'learning by doing' is the best teacher. So you can build a portfolio by this approach but it can take a long time. But it does help to accomplish your second goal of gaining experience.

If you are lucky, you may be able to find an advance amateur photographer or a pro who is getting back into model shooting. In either of these cases you have a shooter who has the ability to produce good work but may not hit it on the first try. The photos they produce may not always be top tier shots but would give you good photos to start your career. This situation gives you good quality photos, very fast, for little money, and the experience of working with someone who knows something about the business. These types of shoots can also be the hardest to find.This information applies to fashion models, life style models, and commercial models. If you are seeking adult glamour modeling, you it will be no problem finding free test shoot once you learn where to look for them.

WarningThis is where the warning should come in when looking for test shoots. There always seems to be these "semi-pro" photographers out there. These guys are more then willing to do test shoots with new young models. These guys are more interested in hanky-panky than in producing a great photograph. At some point they want to get your clothes off or they are all over you like an octopus, saying they are trying to show you how to pose. Now this is different from very young, starting photographers who just have raging hormones. They are most likely just looking for a date rather than anything lecherous. In either case you will not end up with any usable photos for your portfolio. This is where professionalism on both the model's and photographer's part is needed. And they take pictures or movies of you undressing without you knowing.

The Model ReleaseAs you start to do photo shoots the need for a model release will come up. .

Finding Free Test ShootsIf you sign with a modeling agency they may already have a list of photographers that need that warm body to put in front of the camera. The agency may have checked out these photographers

Page 12: How to become a model

and feel they are of a professional quality that the agency can recommend. In some cases, even with an agency, you may be on your own to track down test shoots.

What are some strategies for tracking down photographers for free test shoots? If you find some photographers in your area, email them and ask if they do any free photographer test shoots (TFP). They may say no, but you don't know until you ask. You can also try calling around or visiting photographers' studios but that will take more work. The yellow pages might be helpful for this approach.

If all of the current professional photographers in your area turn you down for free test shoots you may want to try the wannabe photographers. These are the student photographers. You can check to see if your local community college or university has a photography program. If they do you may find you can tell the instructor or place a notice on a bulletin board in the photography department that you are looking for test shoots. As a professional photographer I know we all had to get started somewhere and for many of us it was at college. As a beginning photographer if we wanted to learn any type of people photography we had to try and find a subject to photograph. This could be your place to connect with a student photographer. Keep in mind that the photographer is as new to photography as you are to modeling so you will both be trying to learn the business.

Some other fringe spots where you might make contact with a photographer for test shoots are camera stores and camera clubs. Sometimes the clerks at a photography store or photo lab might know of someone who is doing fashion or people photos. They may be able to keep an eye out for a photographer once you let them know you are looking for test shoots. Also, some camera clubs may have members who do people photos. Letting the head of the club know you are looking for test shoots may lead to something. With both of these you run a greater risk of running into the "semi-pro" photographer/lecher. Be extremely cautious about any leads you get this way, but you may find an amateur photographer who does good work.

I have started a web site I am calling Test Shoots.com. It is a place to post your need for a photographer to do test shoots. It has been up for a couple of years and has work for some. It is free so you may want to give it a try.Another area that at first I thought held great promise to find test shoots but now I think is a long shot is one of the regional forums for models and photographers. I have been studying the one for the region I am in for several months. I think forums in other regions will be similar and I am not sure all regions will have such forums. It seams these forum tend to attract a lot of the "adult entertainment" wannabe photographers and not many fashion or commercial print photographers (although there maybe some lurking around). The photographers range from beginners to season pros. The photo interest can run from fashion but tend to be a lot of Playboy type glamour photography to web "adult entertainment" photography. So these Forums are not for those under 18 and please read the warnings below and use caution.

If you find a forum in your region that has not become a place for "adult entertainment" contacts or if you are looking to become an "adult entertainment" model then a forum will allow you to see what different photographers are shooting and what quality of work they are doing. The forums are a chance for photographers and models to post photos from their latest shoots, ask

Page 13: How to become a model

questions, share news, and get into lively debates. Those who post usually have email address and web sites. You can study the postings and hopefully find some photographers to contact about doing test shoots. You can also posts a notice on the forum saying you are looking for test shoots. If you are just starting, you can post without a picture but most of those postings get ignored. The forums work better if you can get some photos up on the web and be able to link to these photos when you post your message. Most photographers would like to see what you look like before committing to a shoot. This makes the forums a tough spot to get that first all important test shoot but they can be good for finding shoots to build your portfolio, gain experience and all for free. Forum photographers can be spread all over a region so you may need to be ready to do some traveling to get to shoots.

Warning - Making Internet ContactsWarning when looking for test shoots on the web use caution. You do not know who is really who from postings, chats or websites on the Internet.

What You Can Work On Now for what you can work on to become a professional model. Facial expression, posing, make-up, hair styling and wardrobe are items that you can practice on your own. People talk about models spending a lot of time in front of a mirror. They are not looking into the mirror to admire themselves but to practice their expression & posing and to see how their make-up, hairstyle, and wardrobe look. After you get past your genetics and business professionalism these become your modeling tools. By honing your skills in these areas to perfection and combining them in creative ways, a professional model is produced.

Working on Expression and PoseIn the old days of melodrama and vaudeville they made a science out of communicating with facial expression or body position. They exaggerated and standardized every emotion that one might want to express. They produced books showing these standard expressions and poses and when you studied theatrics this was part of what you learned. All of this early work was a bit over exaggerated and through the years has gone through a lot of refinement. When photographs began replacing drawings in fashion magazines the photo fashion industry came up with their own set of expressions and poses. These expressions and poses usually communicated beauty and grace. A model would learn a standard set of poses which told where the feet, hands, torso, and head would be positioned. One would work on one's cheery smile or surprise facial expression. By the early sixties it had become pretty regimented. But just as all the rules for being a model were set, along came the late sixties and a time for breaking all of the rules. It has been a muddled mess since. Today there are no set rules for models except all of the old rules still can apply except we want to break them all the time. The modeling schools say they will teach you the standard modeling poses but the agencies and fashion industry say that there are no standard poses; everything is creative and you either have it or you don't and we decide who has it.

As a working photographer I think it is great to have both. I like it when I can tell a model to look sad and she has practiced that look in the mirror and can do it on cue. I also like when we can play sad music or tell a side story and get an honest sad expression. I like when shooting a

Page 14: How to become a model

simple fashion shot and I ask the model to go through her short or long group of poses and she has a set routine that we can shoot through. I like it when we need something very different for a shot and I can tell the model how to stretch, twist, and reach and she is aware of her/his body and can do it. I think you should know the rules so you can break them. You should know your body so you are aware of how it moves, what lines it forms, and how it can be coached into different positions. I think you should know yourself and your emotions so you can show these to the camera and feel confident in what you are showing.

So how do you work on expressions and posing? One good way to start is doing activities that teach you how to move you body gracefully. For this I like dance and rhythmic gymnastics. Dancers and gymnasts move great in front of the camera. They know how to created a long sweeping line with their bodies. Other sports can help with kinesthetic knowledge and are good for conditioning but I favor dance to teach how to move and communicate with you body. Of course for expression theater is a great teacher. That is part of what an actor must do at times - communicate without words. If you have an opportunity take a class or participate in these activities, I encourage you to do so.

You can work on facial expressions by practicing them in a mirror. What do I mean by facial expressions? We are all capable of showing various emotions on our face. Most emotions that you can think of can show on your face. Hate, love, sadness, longing, happy, and more can be expressed on your face. What you should do is make a list of all key emotional words you can think of and practice those expressions in front of a mirror. After you have practiced for a while, try them on a friend and see if they can tell what emotion you are conveying. The idea is that when you are in front of the camera and the photographer wants you to look longingly into the distance you know how to do that.

You can work on posing by practicing in front of a full length mirror. To learn the basics you may have to track down a modeling book that covers this. I would say look at the fashion magazine to see how to stand but most of the poses are breaking the rule and at this point you need to be learning the rules. You may want to look at fashion catalogs for poses. They usually show the more standard poses (the most basic poses are based on the five positions of ballet). Pay attention to tilt of the head, position of the hand, and turn of the ankle. These little things can make a big difference. Just as with facial expressions your body posture can relate to an emotional word or phrase. Body posing is easy to show someone but it is hard to put in words.

With both expressions and with posing it is also good to practice with props, products and wardrobe. Props might be a floppy hat, a long shawl, and a beach ball. You want to practice reacting to the prop and using the prop. Since the reason for doing these photographs is to sell something, it is good to practice with a product that might be sold. Practice holding the product so it shows well and you don't cover the label. With fashion you are selling the clothes. Practice showing important features of the clothing. Show off pockets, collar, belt, how the garment moves, what ever makes the garment interesting you want to call attention to it.

Make-upMake-up is an art. I took my make-up classes from a lady who assisted on the movie Little Big Man. In that movie they took Dustin Hoffman from being a young teenager to a 100-year-old

Page 15: How to become a model

man. What she could do with make-up was amazing. If a shoot has a budget for a make-up artist and a good one is available then we just sit back and let him do his magic. But on a shoot without a budget for a make-up artist or in some smaller towns where one is not available, it may well fall upon the model to do her own make-up. Even when you have a make-up artist it is necessary that you know of any corrective make-up you may need.

For learning make-up there are some great books available. You may also find theatrical make-up classes taught at some community college. The cosmetologist at the local department store may be fine giving some pointers for your street make-up, but make-up for photography can be quite different. This is especially true for B&W photos. A big part of learning make-up is just trying it in front of a mirror. Study something in a book or magazine then try it in front of a mirror. Eventually, you have to get in front of the camera with your make up on and see how it looks.Make-up for black and white photography gets weird. Color no longer matters. It is only the lightness and darkness that matters. I guess it is a kind of a gothic thing. It takes some getting used to. You must ignore the color and only see the make-up in terms of black, white and grays.

Hair StylingBeing able to do things with your hair can be a great help when photographing. Of course it is great when you have a professional hair stylist who can do some fabulous looks and keep every hair in place, but there may not be a budget for a hair stylist. So again it may fall to the model to be able to do her own hair. I have always thought shoulder length hair was the most versatile. You can put it up, pull it back, comb it to one side, fluff it, curl it, or just leave it natural. Short hair locks you into one look, end of story. Long hair can be fun to work with but not quite as flexible. Being able to restyle your hair can be very helpful on a shoot. You can check various magazines to see what they are doing and practice in a mirror. For most modeling purposes you don't need to be incredibly creative with your hair - just so you can redo it to offer several different looks.

WardrobeIn a secondary market, on a lower budget shoot, for your own composite and portfolio you will need a basic working wardrobe. When I was starting in photography the modeling books would list the basic wardrobe a model should have. This, of course, was where the simple black dress came from. I am not sure what should be in one's closet today, but a range of basics would be good. You must have a business suit for interviews, cold calls, and modeling. I am always grateful when a model has a formal dress. The formal is best for the super dress-up shot. You may have to wait till you get going and call on a few photographers to see what you might want in a basic wardrobe.As part of wardrobe and clothing I would also encourage learning about fashion. Thirty years ago most women had some experience in sewing. From that experience they had an understanding of what different fabrics were like, what standard cuts of skirts were, different types of collars, different types of pockets, and many more variations that could make up a garment. All of this is still important today when modeling clothes. It helps to know how a fabric will drape or move when you are modeling it. It helps to know if a pocket is deep cut or shallow cut so you can show that. It is very important to know what the lines are of a garment so you can accentuate them and not break the line of movement. Fashion history and how the fashion

Page 16: How to become a model

industry works may be fun to learn, also, but I think it is more important to understand the garment itself.

Scams, Rip Offs and Bad Business These days there seems to be a whole industry that has developed to take advantage of those who would like to become models. They are far removed from the world of actual professional modeling. This modeling scam and rip-off industry makes its money by alluding to or promising great careers in modeling, but first you have to pay them up front. Of course your modeling career never comes about and your money is long gone. These enterprises pray upon an individual's desire to be a star and their lack of knowledge of how the modeling industry really works. And this leach industry seems to be getting bigger everyday.

I view these enterprises as falling into three categories: the scam, the rip-off, and just bad business. All cost a wannabe model and give little or nothing in return.

The scam is a fraudulent and illegal activity. This type of enterprise has no intention of delivering on what it promises - and it usually makes big promises and guarantees. It normally asks for a substantial sum of money up front and vanishes in the night with it.

A rip-off is not illegal. It tends to make vague promises or have one or two out of thousands that actual do get careers. It tends to work with anyone who has the money to pay up front no matter whether they have talent or not. Of course, it tells everyone they have some type of talent. This is a big category. It can include modeling agencies that charge up front for signing fees; photo shoots, or require you take their class before they will work with you. These can include some of the modeling conventions, searches, and competitions. There are lots of virtual modeling sites that are springing up all over the web. It seems there are new rip-off enterprises starting every day.

In the case of bad businesses, these enterprises may be trying but they just don't know what they are doing. They are trying to be legitimate businesses but do not have the knowledge of the industry they need or they are located in the wrong place. This might be someone who sets up a modeling agency in a market that is too small to handle one, a photographer offering to shoot a professional modeling portfolio but does not have the skill level to carry it off, or a modeling school that should be called a finishing school (that offers classes in image enhancements or is using teaching materials that are 30 years old). I think these businesses mean well but still cost the model money for classes or photos that are useless.

If your goal is to become a professional model, then all of the scams, rip-offs, and bad businesses that promise to take you to that goal, in fact, stand as barriers to it.

Warning SignsWarning signs of a scam or a less then legitimate or poorly run modeling agency. If you see any of these warning signs it does not mean the business is for sure a scam operations but be sure to ask lots of questions, be sure the agency has lots of good answers and always check references. New York City of course is the exception to many of these warning signs.

Page 17: How to become a model

1) Newspaper classified ad or display ad looking for any kind of model or talent other than nude glamour modeling (models for the adult entertainment industry). Modeling agencies have plenty of wannabe's coming to them so they don't have to advertise for models. If they are short of talent they will send their scouts out to public places to look for potential talent.

2) Pictures of famous New York supermodels on the walls or their comp cards on a wall rack. I don't think Cindy Crawford needs a modeling agency in small town USA. Get real people!

3) Any up front fees. This might be signing fees, new account fees, evaluation fees, etc. If an agency has to charge money at the front end it means that there is not enough money at the back end. This means the agency does not have enough modeling work for the agency to survive on commissions and not enough work for a model to survive.

4) "We are interested in you but you need to test shoot with our photographer and it's going to cost you". Legitimate agencies will provide you with a list of photographers that you may go to. Many will have a place by the front door for photographer's business cards that you can take on your way out. You should be free to go to any photographer you want to. If the agency tells you that you must use their photographer, watch out. A new twist on this same theme is where the agency does not charge for the photo session but you have to pay a high fee (an example $700) for a "professional make up artist." You will need photos at some point but you should be free to shop around and find you own photographer and make up artist.

5) "We are interested in you but you need to go through our classes first and it is going to cost you". Again money at the front end = not enough modeling work at the back end. Combination School/Modeling agency has a conflict of interest and SAG (Screen Actors Guild) member agencies can not offer both.

6) "We guarantee you work". Modeling agencies are not employers. They represent you to try and get you work. Most of the time they don't know for sure what type of jobs will come in or what look may be needed, thus there is no way a legitimate agency can guarantee you work. The best they can do is give you an idea of their track record on placements. But, just like a warning with mutual funds, past performance is no guarantee of future performance.

7) "As it said in our ad in our local small town newspaper we guarantee you work, just like the famous models on our walls, just as soon as you go through our modeling classes, shoot with our photographer, and pay our agency fees". RUN do not walk to the nearest exit.

A Modeling ScamThis past week we had a newscast on a modeling scam. It was a Los Angeles operation that was targeting small towns in Oregon. They ran ads in the local newspaper saying they were looking for models for TV commercials. You were to send in some info on yourself and a couple of snap shots. After you sent in your info they would contact you and tell you that you had the look they needed. They then signed you up for a commercial paying the big bucks. They did need to do a test shoot before the actual commercial, but all of it was paid for except the makeup artist. They sent contracts, airline vouchers, and lots of official looking paper work. The catch was that the

Page 18: How to become a model

model had to pay for her own make-up artist and that they needed $500 up front. The small town wannabes, not knowing how the industry worked and having a contract in hand, sent in the $500. Of course once the check was cashed the scam artist vanished and the commercial, contracts, airline vouchers and the guarantees were all bogus. It is easy to con someone when they are not educated in an industry and, as the song says, "The lure of easy money has a very strong appeal."

Classic Rip-offThe following was emailed to Modeling Advice. She agreed to let me share this with others. This is not uncommon and shows what can happen if one gets caught up in one's hope for a career and is not ready for shysters that are out there. This young lady ran into one of the classic rip-off agencies. It began with a newspaper ad, and then having to pay for photos. They promised immediate work without even photo testing or much of an interview. This is not an illegal operation, just a rip-off.

She writes:Hello. I read your section on modeling scams. I know this e-mail may be long, but please hear me out. I really need your advice on this one. I feel really stupid now. I went to a modeling/talent agency so that I could get my singing career started. I found this agency in the newspaper (one thing you wrote about). I didn't even go there for modeling I went there for the agent to listen to a demo tape I had done. He told me he could not do much for me in that field, but asked if I would consider modeling or doing commercials, etc. He told me I would have to take pictures and gave me a chart to look at. Three pictures cost $475.00. I had taken a friend with me who advised me to do it, because through this I could always meet people and start my singing career. There were many other people in the office - for example, teenagers and babies. He asked me how I would feel about doing a fashion show this weekend and also said he got called for a video. Now, anyone who has met me knows that I am a bit shy and have low self-esteem, so why would you want me for this job? He even told my friend that I had to break out of that and be more aggressive.

Of course it was after I paid him that these questions ran through my head. I had never done anything so stupid and rash in my whole life. I think it was the rush of thinking I might finally go out there and sing. He didn't tell me that I needed to change anything about myself, which I personally thought was odd. He had the secretary come in and take one of the photos I brought in to FedEx it to the people making the video. Personally I think it was all a big act. He also said it was good that I lived in a particular area. He took pictures of me (I don't even know if there was film in the camera) and said I could come back in another day to take the other pictures. I was going back today, but got stuck on the highway and did not make it on time. I called and said I would be there in 10 minutes and the secretary told me that I would have to reschedule because the agent was going to a meeting, so I rescheduled for Thursday. When I had called to cancel the initial appointment she jumped down my throat saying that they are a professional agency and that she didn't think I was serious about this. But this time she most easily rescheduled, after they got my money. The contract he gave me said that they would get 10% of what I make. I paid with a credit card and called the company and froze my account, but it will probably go through anyway. I'm not sure if they are for real or not, because I just did this on Saturday, 4/1/00. I probably won't be able to do anything about it now, but I still want people to know about this and to be more aware. What can I do as far as that goes? Maybe you can let the people know since

Page 19: How to become a model

you have a web site. What can I do to protect myself as far as this matter goes? I was also thinking about the fact that if he is not legitimate and he does have pictures of me would he use them for other purposes? I also called the Better Business Bureau and they said that this company has been around since 1993 and they have had 14 complaints in the last 36 months and they had responded to all of these complaints. Please e-mail me and let me know how much of a scam this sounds like if it is. I appreciate your time. Thank you.

Other Site with Info on ScamsModelnews.com provides a scam watch page for reporting modeling scams.Modeling Scams - This site contains assorted information about scams, rip offs and bad business practices.BadBusinessBureau.com/Rip-off Report.com - You can check to see what folks are reporting about different business. Reports on modeling agencies and modeling schools.

Please be aware that some of the material on these sites is from proper news organization and has a degree of credibility. Please also be aware that there is a lot of material that is people blowing off steam, stating there opinions or personal views and unidentified (questionable) sources. To be an informed consumer please research both sides of an issues.

KRON a Bay Area Station's report on Options Talent

Also check out Options Talent website or Trans Continental Talent and see what they have to say. Also find out more at http://www.transconscam.com/. As with all aspects of modeling try to learn as much as possible before investing your time or money. If you are looking for online paid hosting of your model portfolio there are hundreds of sites offering this service. Do a search at google.com to find them. One site that is a paid and free site that seems to be popular with models and photographers is One Model Place . Two of the oldest paid sites are Models.com and Model Net Work.com. For free Internet model listing sites check out the Free Model Listing page

Still have a Question?If you have read through Modeling Advice site and are confused on some point or just can't find the answer to your question, you can email. I don't have all of the answers but I am happy to pass on what info I do have. I love intelligent, well thought out questions so please think before emailing. [email protected]

Learn the secrets of to become a successful model.

Deciding to become a fashion model is the same as deciding to be a writer or a singer. Either you have the talent or you do not. But, talent is not the only attribute you will need to go after your dream career. Besides, talent, you will need plenty of luck, and more!

Page 20: How to become a model

First, you must figure out if you have the standards of the industry. If you are a woman, are you at least sixty-eight inches tall? (Men should be at least seventy-one inches tall.) Is your hair healthy and shiny, and kept in one of the latest styles? Are your teeth straight and white? Is your body toned and attractive? The next step is to measure and write down your height, weight, chest size, waist size, hip size, dress size, shoe size, hair color, and eye color. You will need to have an attractive figure in order to be a model.

Now that you have the physical attributes out of the way, it is time to take a look at your personality as well as your personal care habits. Are you outgoing? Are you a self-starter? Are you a goal setter? Are you energetic? Modeling usually requires a grueling schedule. You can expect to be on your feet for several hours at a time until the shoot is done. Do you eat right and exercise regularly? Eating right, exercising, and getting enough sleep is imperative to having and keeping a healthy body. Can you handle rejection? Modeling is like writing or singing in that you can expect to get your share of rejections. Every model cannot be right for every photo, so start yourself off right by expecting to hear the word "No" many times. The next step is to either hire a professional photographer or, save lots of money and ask a talented friend to take several shots of you in a bathing suit, shorts and a top, or other suitable apparel. The finished pictures should be at least eight by ten. Pick out the best half dozen or so shots and place them in a portfolio. If you want to send more than one portfolio around, then you will need extra sets. Now, check the telephone book for modeling agencies. If there are none listed in the town where you live, then check in the bigger cities around you. Write down a list of the ones that look appealing to you. Next, you will have to call each one and find out if they are looking for models right now. Tell them that you have a portfolio and that you would like to set-up an interview. If they are not receptive to you, you might want to go ahead and send or drop off a portfolio of you and then check back in a week or so to see what they think. Remember--a picture speaks a thousand words, especially in modeling.

Keep showing your portfolio and talking to as many people as you can that are in the business. During this time, keep a look out for modeling contests that you can enter. Be persistent and don't give up!