©2002 CMAB All Rights Reserved

Researched and written by Dan StronginEdited with additional writing by Bob Kenney

Technical review by Neville McNaughton

FLAVOR DEVELOPMENTIN CHEESEMAKING

Many factors influence cheese flavor, but there are PIVOTAL STEPS that explain

why a cheese tastes the way it does.

These steps are the FOCUS of our presentation today

KEY FACTORS SHAPING CHEESE FLAVOR DEVELOPMENT

1. CHEESEMAKER SKILL

2. MILK TYPE & QUALITY

3. TERROIR INFLUENCES

4. STARTER CULTURE

5. CURD STRUCTURE DEVELOPMENT

6. SALT MANAGEMENT

7. RIND TYPE

8. RIPENING PRACTICES

9. STORAGE & HANDLING

1. CHEESEMAKER SKILL

Cheesemaker skill is the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT FACTOR determining the quality and flavor of the cheese.

A skilled cheesemaker can compensate for the shortcomings in the milk, the facility and the environment, but high quality milk and ideal circumstances will not compensate for shortcomings in the cheesemaker’s skill

THE ART OF CHEESEMAKING

Good cheesemaking is the result of GOOD CHOICES by the cheesemaker in terms of:

Milk selection

Flavor complexity

Terroir influence

Make process consistency

Ripening practices

2. MILK AND FLAVOR

Milk choice is an IMPORTANT CREATIVE CHOICE for the

cheesemaker and one dictated by a number of factors

UNDERSTANDING MILK

Milk contributes to CHEESE FLAVOR depending on:

Animal used cow, sheep or goat

Breed used Holstein vs. Jersey

Feed given to the animal

Overall quality of the milk

Blended with other milks

Skimmed, partially skimmed or has cream added

Raw or pasteurized

3. ENVIRONMENT AND FLAVOR: TERROIR

Much is said about “terroir” today. Terroir can significantly influence

cheese flavor. But for it to do so the cheesemaker must carefully

PLAN it into the cheesemaking process.

UNDERSTANDING TERROIRA French expression meaning OF THE SOIL

Refers to diverse environmental influences on a food’s flavor development such as soil composition, microclimate and native microbiology

TERROIR HAS A LONG TRADITION IN EUROPE

Terroir is the result of a well-established PARTNERSHIP

between the government and the farmers to steward the

environment.

TERROIR PRACTICES ARE TAKING HOLD IN U.S.

Diversify local flora in feed

Graze herd on natural grasses

Use seasonal milk

Use batch culture process that captures indigenous microorganisms

Add locally grown herbs to cheese

Foster unique aging room microenvironment

We are creating our own tradition. There are several methods cheesemakers can use to INTRODUCE TERROIR

4. THE ROLE OF STARTER CULTURE

STARTER CULTURE is added to the milk in the vat and determines the type of cheese being produced, influencing both flavor and texture.

STARTER CULTURE

“Vat culturization” produces consistent flavor

“Batch culturization” can add terroir to cheese flavor

Beneficial LIVING BACTERIA impart flavor and texture through fermentation and release enzymes that shape flavor

Starter culture is alive with bacteria

Starter culture

COMPLEXITY AND CHEESE

COMPLEXITY determines how we experience a cheese. It’s important to note that complexity starts IN THE VAT. The cheesemaker cannot later develop cheese qualities – such as during aging – that are not created in the vat.

CULTURE VS. COAGULANT

Main coagulant used today is Microbial (chymosin)

Less impact on flavor than starter culture

Coagulation adds ENZYMES causing the milk to thicken and

separate into solids and liquids – CURDS AND WHEY

5. CURD STRUCTURE

Flavor follows structure. Creating a good structure gives a cheese

the potential to develop great flavor.

Curd structure development is the heart of cheesemaking. How the

curds develop in the vat shapes the STRUCTURE of the cheese

and determines flavor and texture potential

STRUCTURE AND FLAVOR

Determined when the whey is drained from the curd

This is the point WHEN MILK BECOMES CHEESE

Structure of the curd forms a MATRIX OF PROTEINS

Matrix of proteins

STRUCTURE AND FLAVOR

Coagulated milk

Young cheese

Aged cheese

11 3322

11

22

33

Coagulated milk

Young cheese

Aged cheese

6. SALT AND FLAVOR

Salt is more than a seasoning agent. It is an essential tool for

the cheesemaker to CONTROL flavor development and

ripening

THE ROLE OF SALT

SALT has three functions. It serves as a preservative, a way to inhibit the growth of undesirable bacteria, and as a means for determining how much moisture will remain in the cheese.

ADDING SALT

There are THREE METHODS of salting cheese:

Salt added to fresh curd

Dry salt rubbed on cheese rind surface

Immersing cheese in salt brine

7. RINDS & FLAVOR

Rind influences enzymatic activity in the cheese and moisture loss during ripening. Rind also directly influences flavor if it is consumed as part of experiencing the cheese.

The type of rind on the cheese, or whether the cheese has a rind at all, directly affects FLAVOR DEVELOPMENT during ripening.

CHEESE RINDS

Rindless

Natural Rinds

Smooth Rinds

Surface Ripened Rinds

White or Bloomy Rinds

Washed Rinds

There are FOUR CATEGORIES of cheese rinds

RINDLESS CHEESE

Cheddar

Original Blue

Monterey Jack

Includes cheeses made without a rind. Some are vacuum-sealed in plastic

NATURAL RINDS

St. George Bandage Cheddar

Serena

Molds cultivated in the aging room develop on rind to protect the cheese

SMOOTH RINDS

Gouda Carmody

Northern Gold

A smooth, relatively impervious rind. Sometimes called a“perfect” rind

SURFACE RIPENED RINDS

Andante Soft-Ripened Mt. Tam

Triple Crème Brie

White or Bloomy Rind

Mold is added to the curd or sprayed on the surface

SURFACE RIPENED RINDS

Schloss Liederkranz

Red Hawk

Washed Rinds

Surface is washed with whey, brine or flavored liquid

8. RIPENING AND FLAVOR

Proper ripening is a necessary step in bringing many cheeses to the

peak of flavor, but only if the cheese possesses the STRUCTURAL

QUALITIES that will be improved by further aging.

CHEESE RIPENING

Fermentation continues during the life of a natural cheese, making changes that affect cheese flavor over time. The cheesemaker can influence these changes by carefully controlling the ripening environment

Success in ripening actually started back in the VAT and is completed in the AGING ROOM

TERROIR IN THEAGING ROOM

The cheesemaker can control the the ripening environment to encourage terroir and influence flavor development

Add indigenous influences such as local herbs

Cultivate microflora in the aging room over time

Age different cheeses in the same room

Manage airflow that brings in local bacteria

9. STORAGE, HANDLING AND FLAVOR

Generally speaking, the aim of good storage and handling is to

help PROTECT cheese quality and flavor, and not really improve

it, but that is an important reason why it must be done correctly.

A CHEESE’S JOURNEY

Produce AgeWrap

Store CutWrap Distribute

IDEAL CHEESE STORAGE

Temperature

Humidity

42oF–50oF

70%–80%

Cheese Cafe

PROPER CHEESE STORAGE

The goal is to keep cheese at the peak of flavor. Storage and handling practices should mimic the cheesemaker’s ripening room to help the cheese RECOVER from the traumas experienced during shipping

Since natural cheese is a living food, with proper HANDLING it usually can be coaxed back to its full flavor potential.

THE AFFINEUR

Until recently a European practice, affineursare now starting to appear in the U.S.

A skilled affineur can bring a cheese to the PEAK of flavor just before sale

A cheese professional SKILLED in ripening practices

THE CHEESEMAKER’S ART

The cheesemaker creates and manages an ECOSYSTEM of living microorganisms and

their byproducts.

His or her SKILL in managing the process is ultimately the single most important factor determining cheese quality

and flavor.