Housekeeping for Historic Homes and House Museums

Housekeeping for Historic Homesand House Museums

by Melissa Heaver

Everything gets dirt y! We all know this from personal experience; dust anddirt seem to accumulate on books and furniture in our homes at a pheno-menal rate. Think about how much grime can build up in your own house

when you go away for a week.

Imagine what happens to a house museum that is open to the public andreceives 20,000 visitors each year. Visitors can quickly wear down f loors and car-peting, their hands touch furniture, walls and banisters, thus damaging collectionsand interior finishes. Historic house museums were not designed for the amountof pedestrian traffic that occurs after a building is opened to visitors.

The t ypical historic house, whether museum or private residence, is subjectedto stresses far beyond those of a modern residence. Historic structures are notsealed like modern buildings. Floor boards are worn and have shifted, doors andwindows no longer hang properly in their openings, and modern ventilation sys-tems often bring in even more dirt and dust. Even the most thorough housekeepingregime cannot prevent these pollutants from creeping into the house.

In addition, historic houses are often furnished with objects that require long-term preservation. These heirlooms, whether a marble topped table or a century-oldfamily quilt, are often extremely fragile, and cannot be cared for with moderncleaning methods. The elbow grease and strong chemicals used to maintain mostmodern homes cannot be used to clean historic artifacts. They must be carefullyhandled and extra precautions should be taken when cleaning them.

This manual is designed to assist those responsible for the care and mainte-nance of an older or historic home, whether private residence or house museum.Individuals who own antiques or family heirlooms will find helpful advice aboutcleaning methods and supplies. This guide also explains what not to do, and whennot to do anything at all. Suppliers for many of the products mentioned in thisguide are listed in the resource section at the end of the book.

This housekeeping manual is by no means the definitive answer to all ques-tions. New techniques and new materials are constantly emerging; keeping abreastof new developments is the best way to augment the information provided here.

Although many of these guidelines were originally written for the NationalTrust’s collection of historic house museums, they have been adapted here forhomeowners and other historic site overseers, as well. More than 6,000 historicsites in this country are open to the public. Many of them have original or historicfurnishings, all of which need proper care and cleaning.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

3 General Handling& Moving

5 General Cleaning Tips& Supplies

5 Things Not to Do

6 Sample CleaningSchedule for HistoricHouse Museums

7 Floors

9 Woodwork

11 Walls & Ceilings

13 Windows

15 Fixtures & Hardware

17 Light Fixtures

19 Hearths & Mantels

21 Window Shades

23 Books & Bookshelves

25 Ceramics

27 Framed Objects

29 Furniture

23 Glass

35 Metals

39 Carpets

37 Textiles

39 Bathrooms &Kitchens

APPENDICES

43 Sources of TechnicalAssistance

47 Suppliers

49 Supplies & Whereto Get Them

51 Useful Publications

Housekeeping for Historic Homes and House Museums

2

Rugbeaters and Homemade Soaps:Cleaning Methods from the Past

Luckily, today we don’t have to draw water from awell and make our own soap to mop f loors and washwindows. The wide variet y of cleaning products foundat the local supermarket and modern conveniences,such as vacuum cleaners, make housekeeping easier.Yet many cleaning methods from the past are just asappropriate (and sometimes preferable) today as theywere 100 years ago. Carpeting is still beaten to re-move ground-in dirt and grime, and silver is oftencleaned using whiting. Beeswax and Carnauba waxesare still found in commercial furniture polish, and clothdiapers are still in demand as a polishing cloth.

The Importance of Proper HousekeepingAlthough long-term deterioration cannot be halted,

maintaining a clean and constant environment can slowthe effects of time. Using the wrong cleaning materialscan damage historic artifacts, while implementing thewrong techniques can cause irreversible damage toobjects. For example, spray polishes contain siliconewhich permanently adheres to furniture surfaces.Should a piece need to be restored, the furniture con-servator would have a difficult time removing thatsilicone layer. Using scouring pads to clean heavily tar-nished and dirt y silver can permanently scratch anddamage the surface of the piece. The only possible wayto remove such damage is to buff it out, which removeslayers of metal that cannot be replaced.

Housekeeping Plans for House Museums

Housekeeping must be a primary concern of

site management. Sound housekeeping practices

are important for the welfare of the artifacts.

Furthermore, ongoing maintenance is cheaper

than undertaking major repairs or restoration

after furniture or interior finishes have been

damaged from incorrect cleaning methods.

It is a good idea to prepare a schedule or plan

for housekeeping, so that everyone involved in the

actual care of objects is aware of what needs to be

done, who is responsible for carrying out specific

activities, when those projects should be

completed, and what materials should be used.

The housekeeping plan becomes the institutional

memory ensuring consistent, long-term collections

preservation. Each staff member should have a

copy of the plan and participate in periodic

training on proper housekeeping methods.

Even after completion, the housekeeping plan

will continue to evolve; be prepared to review it

and revise it periodically.

Sometimes less is more. Restraint is an

essential characteristic of the successful

housekeeping plan and its implementation.

Whenever possible integrate housekeeping

procedures and practices into the visitor

experience. Guides who understand proper

collections care techniques can make it part of

their tours. They are able to explain to the visitor

what is going on, thus allowing the housekeeping

staff to not have to stop and answer so many

questions. Telling the visitor what staff is doing

helps to educate them about the importance of

housekeeping, and the fact that objects just don’t

“keep clean” by themselves.


3

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

General Handling & MovingWe cherish old buildings and arti-

facts because of their age. We takepleasure in an old leather family bibleor proudly display a Native Americanheaddress in the town museum. Yetafter 100 years or more, buildings andbibles deserve our respect and carefulhandling. The following list spells outin general terms what precautions totake when moving or handling historicobjects.

Handling• Always wash your hands

thoroughly before handling anyobject. Wash your hands againbefore handling a different t ype ofobject. Be sure they are thoroughlydry before handling the nextobject.

• Avoid using hand cream until theend of the day as it will leave aresidue on objects.

• Remove all jewelry. Metals andjewels (especially diamonds) canscratch objects easily. Braceletsand watches can bang againstitems and cause breakage, cracks,or chips. Avoid wearing watches orbracelets, long necklaces,prominent belt buckles, metalbuttons, or any other accessorythat may scratch or snag whenlifting and moving any object,particularly large objects such asfurniture.

• Because salts and oils from theperspiration on your hands canpromote corrosion on metals,clean white cotton gloves should

be worn at all times when handlingmetals, porous marble or unglazedceramics, or when handling anyobject with a f laking or easilysnagged surface. Textiles, books,and paper may be handled withclean gloves or, if necessary, withclean dry hands.

• Wear surgical gloves, or “sure-grip”cotton gloves with plastic gripdots, to handle heavy objects withsmooth slick surfaces like metal,marble, or polished stonesculpture, glass, glazed or highlypolished ceramics.

• Do not eat, drink, or smokenear work areas or placeswhere objects are stored.Food encourages insectsand rodents, drinks caneasily be spilled and causesevere damage to mostt ypes of objects, andsmoke/f lame can be hazardousnear many cleaning materials.

Moving• Before moving any object or piece

of furniture, check your route first.Make sure it is free of obstacles andyou are aware of any irregularitiesin the ground.

• Always know exactly where anobject is to be placed beforemoving it. Be sure there is ampleand appropriate space where youplan to put the object down.

• Before moving an object, preparethe new location with suitable


4

padding and support, and makesure that the transport path isclear. Transport heavy objects suchas metal and stone in a paddedcart or dolly.

• If the piece is large, schedule atleast three people to assist in themove, two or more to carry thelarge object, and one to overseeclearance through doors, etc. If youdo not feel comfortable moving theobject yourself, or if it is too largeor awkward to move alone, seekassistance.

• Before lifting an object, evaluatethe areas of strength and potentialweakness in the structure.Examine the object for looseelements or evidence of damagesuch as cracks (especially “blind”or incomplete cracks), breaks,tears, and insect channeling or exitholes. Also look for signs of oldrepairs like glue seams, patches,and other reinforcements thatindicate weakened areas. Theseareas will be the weakest part ofthe object, and must be fullysupported when the object is liftedor moved.

• Do not “test” the strength of areasthat visually appear to be weak bytapping, probing, f lexing, or anyother manipulation that may resultin irreversible damage.

• When carrying an object, supportit fully. Never carry an object byhandles, rims, edges, etc. Supportthe object at its center of gravit y.

• Use both hands when moving anyobject.

• Never handle an artifact more thanis required. Excessive handling canspeed object deterioration.

• Handle only one object or part ofan object at a time. If the objectconsists of many small pieces,wrap them in acid-free tissue andplace them in a padded basket orbox to transport them all together.Mark the box with identificationinformation on the piecestemporarily wrapped and storedinside.

• If an object is damaged duringmoving or cleaning, carefully wrapthe pieces in tissue and place in abasket or box. If the object is ofimportance because of its historyor value, seek the assistance of aprofessional conservator to repairit. If pieces are found detached, orin the event of accidental breakageduring lifting, moving, orinstallation, do not attempt torepair the damage. Instead, save allpieces, no matter how small andplace them in a ziplock bag, box, orother container, depending on thesize of the fragments. If the objectis part of a museum collection,label the container with theobject’s identification number.

• Use caution when turning anobject over or unwrapping it.Always handle small objects over apadded surface, such as a table, ornear a f loor that has been padded.

• Be careful with potentiallydangerous or lethal objects, suchas firearms or medicalinstruments. If in doubt, do nottouch them.

“ It is the duty of thosewho are placed ascaretakers in therooms to see that thefurniture is usedcarefully, the roomkept clean and decent,and to know that goodorder is maintainedtherein; and if theinmates deviate therefrom it is their duty tokindly admonish them,and if they do notreceive the admoni-tion, they should makethe case known to theElders, and there leaveit. ”

Millennial Laws,United Society ofBelievers in Christ’sSecond Appearing(Shakers), 1825

General Handling & MovingGeneral Cleaning TipsGeneral Cleaning Tips


5

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

General Cleaning Tips• Establish and work within a safet y

zone that includes padded tablesand supplies. Establish wet anddry areas. Dry all materialsthoroughly before returning themto the dry zone. These zonesensure that the object is safe bothfrom contamination once it iscleaned and contamination fromoutside sources.

• Complete one task beforebeginning another. Segmentcleaning into small, doable tasks.

• Be sure you have, and use,appropriate tools for cleaning. Besure these tools have beenproperly cleaned themselves. Ifthey are contaminated during thecleaning process, replace or cleanthem.

• Replace your cleaning tools as theyget dirt y. Do not attempt, forinstance, to dust an entire roomwith one cloth.

Things Not to Do• Do not use pressure-sensitive tape

or labels of any kind on antiquesor heirlooms. This includes Scotchtape, magic tape, Dymo labels,adhesive tape, or masking tape.

• Do not use gummed labels,gummed tape, or paper on objects.

• Do not use glue, paste, cement, orepoxy on objects.

• Do not use staples, straight pins, orwire to affix numbers orinformation to objects.

• Do not write directly on an objector specimen with a ballpoint pen,crayon, felt marking pen, or greasepencil.

• Do not use paint or ink on paperobjects or documentary material.

• Never use pen or other ink markersaround objects. Use only #2pencil.

• Do not use inked stamps to imprintnumbers or information onobjects.

• Never make a mark on the front orback of an oil painting.

• Never affix an accession number toa coin.

• Do not affix an accession numberto the underside of a heavy objectwithout making sure a temporarytag is easily accessible for inventoryand location purposes.

• REMEMBER: Never do anythingto an antique that cannot beundone.

General Cleaning Tips

Supplies Needed:general work tablesdust sheetsmattress padstableschairspadded baskets orboxesgloves – latex & cottonplastic sheetingpadded blocksclipboardwriting paper#2 pencilsplastic bagsMylar


6

• Clean public areas — bathrooms, entranceways,ticketing areas.

• Sweep porches, exterior stairs, ramps, andwalkways, as necessary.

• Vacuum high traffic areas, as needed, especiallyexterior mats, entry mats, and modern carpetingused for visitors.

• Empty trash cans.• Check lights and replace bulbs if necessary.• Clean exterior of exhibit cases to remove

fingerprints. Use liquid plexi polish on soft clothto clean plexiglass. Use diluted solution of waterwith a few drops of ammonia and alcohol toclean glass.

Weekly Schedule• Dust furniture with soft or magnetic cloth, as

necessary.• Inspect for objects that have been moved and

put them in their proper place.• Vacuum f loors.• Dust blinds and windowsills.

Monthly Schedule• Dust inter ior woodwork such as doors,

doorframes, wainscoting, chair rails, baseboards,and banister posts. Dust mirrors and ungildedmirror frames.

• Vacuum accessory textiles such as tablecloths,dresser scarves, bed linens, and rugs.

• Vacuum fireplace interiors if not in use.• Inspect for insect remains in textiles, on f loor,

under furniture, and in window frames.

Quarterly Schedule• Vacuum upholstered furniture• Vacuum under beds and moveable furniture.• Dust book spines and tops of books, drapes,

cornices, and lighting fixtures.• If books are displayed open, inspect and then

turn pages.• Check f ire extinguishers, smoke and fire

detectors, and test all security systems.

Cleaning Schedule for House Museums Daily Schedule

Semiannually• Vacuum drapes, walls and ceilings.• Dust high ledges requiring a ladder to reach the

area.• Dust gilded picture and mirror frames.• Rotate display textiles. Refold or reconfigure

folded or hanging textiles, using acid-free tissueas padding, to reduce structural stress.

Annually• Remove all objects from room.• Roll rug and remove from f loor.• Put large case pieces that are too heavy to move,

into middle of room.• Remove small objects to prepared work area.• Remove framed objects from the wall, always

using two people.• Remove window hangings, after taking several

close-up photos or completing a sketch of eachpanel to aid in rehanging.

• Inspect the room envelope. Check for evidenceof insects, f laking plaster on the ceiling or walls,leaks, high humidit y, mold, f loor damage, paintdamage, etc.

• Use magnetic cloth on a pole to clean spiderwebs and loose dirt from ceiling, cornices,carvings, window frames and glass, doorframesand doors, kick plates, and f loor.

• Wash windows, interior and exterior.• Inspect polished brass and silver for tarnishing,

and clean and wax or lacquer as needed.• Inspect stair-carpet, and arrange for restretching

if necessary by a professional carpet installer.• Vacuum and dust interiors of case pieces such

as bookcases, desks and cabinets.• Wax clear finished wood furniture if light buffing

fails to bring up a shine.• Clean and wax iron f loor grates, and vacuum

air ducts below the vents.• Dust all books and the interior of all bookcases.

Bi-Annually• Polish metal objects.• Inventory collections.

General Cleaning Tips


7

○ ○

FloorsUnfinished and Painted Floors• Vacuum cleaning is the most

efficient way to pick up loose dirtand dust from any t ype of f loor.Use as low suction as possible tocomplete the job.

• Dust with a mop covered with amagnetic wipe cover, rather than atraditional rag dust mop which cansnag in architectural elements, andsplinters. and can cause furtherdamage or leave behind residuestrings.

• Use a well wrung-out sponge mopto clean tracked in mud or otherwet dirt. Test the f loor in aninconspicuous place to be sure wetcleaning will not damage or causethe f loor to bloom (turn cloudy orwhite).

• Try to limit damp mopping to adry day, and provide goodventilation to speed drying time.

• Be sure furnishings do not comein direct contact with the dampmop or f loor.

• Inspect f loor for insects, rot orloose boards.

• Hire a professional to renew orredo f loor finishes. This process ishighly toxic and f lammable.

Finished Floors• Damp mop f loor. Test

inconspicuous area first to makesure finish doesn’t bloom or isn’tremoved by water.

• Wax all f loors with bowling alleywax. Use slip-resistant, low glosswax for wooden steps.

• If the f loor has been covered inpolyurethane, followmanufacturer’s instructions forcleaning.

Ceramic Tile Floors• Dust and damp

mop, but don’twax as this canchange appearance.Don’t let water sit ontile surface since it cancause staining or leaching.

• Consider having brick paverssealed by a professional.

• Cleaning chemicals can etch glazepermanently, so don’t use regularhousehold cleaners.

Stone & Terrazzo Floors• Dust and mop f loors with mild

mixture of soap and water. Makesure f loor is dried thoroughly, as

need a photo

photos ofinterestingtiles — Iwill siloutte


8

water can cause leaching of saltsfrom stone, which can cause moreproblems.

• Don’t use commercial detergentswhich can cause permanent

Floors

bleaching or blurring of surfaces.

• Stone and terrazzo f loors shouldbe polished every few years by aprofessional.

Linoleum/Resilient Flooring(asphalt tile, asbestos, vinyl)• Dust and mop with mild mixture

of soap and water.

• Use plastic scouring pads and aweak ammonia and water solutionto clean stains.

• Wax asphalt and vinyl f loors.

• If asbestos tile shows signs ofbreaking or disintegrating, contacta professional in asbestosmitigation to deal with situation.This material is hazardous to yourhealth!


9

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

WoodworkUnpainted Woodwork• Vacuum woodwork using a screen-

covered nozzle. Watch out forloose pieces. Bag these, markthem, and put them aside for laterregluing.

• Wipe gently with a magnetic cloth,cotton cloth, or brush. For placesnear the ceiling, fashion a dustmop with a magnetic cloth andcarefully wipe.

• Test for water solubilit y before anywet cleaning.

• Do not wet clean gilded surfaces.Gold-leaf or gold coloredarchitectural elements, such asmoldings or medallions, should begently brushed.

• Remove fingerprints and scuffmarks with diluted Murphy’s OilSoap, Dirtex, or TSP and rinsewith a rag dipped in clean water.Remember to test aninconspicuous area first. Dryimmediately with a dry cloth, asstanding water leaves stains.

• Be careful of original varnish,painted or shellacked finishes thatoften dull and darken over time.Have a professional remove thefinish.

• Modern finishes likepolyurethanes, epoxies, andsynthetic resins scratch easily andare hard to touch up. Use damp acloth and wipe with dry oneimmediately. Test area with alcoholon a cotton swab; if the finishdissolves, shellac or spirit varnish

is present. Test area with mineralspirits on a swab; if the finish issticky; it consists of layers of wax. Ifthe finish presents a hard cleansurface, varnish is present.

• Wax unpainted woodwork usingpaste wax like Butcher’s BowlingAlley, which is easy to remove withmineral spirits. Apply a thin layerusing circular motions, allow todry, and then buff with a clean,dry cloth. Remember that heat andhumidit y will slow drying time.

• Wax can cause build-up in whichcase the woodwork would appeartacky or smeared.

• Waxing only needs to be doneevery two years or so, and if it isdone properly, there will be littlebuild up.

• Rebuff the finish periodically.

Need a StatementAbout Woodwork

After dustingfurniture, check forwax deposits. Dip a Q-tip in warm distilledwater and gently applyto a small inconspicu-ous area where there isfinish, not bare wood.Allow to dry, and thencheck for bloom ordiscoloring.

If wood does notshow signs of bloom,mix distilled waterwith a teaspoon ofIvory cleaner and applygently with soft cottoncloth to areas of waxbuild-up. Dry immedi-ately.


10

Painted Woodwork• Vacuum or brush.

• Clean with a weak solutioncontaining a few drops of Ivorysoap, Dirtex or TSP in a gallon ofcool water. Remember to spot testfirst and stop if you damage orremove paint.

• If dirt and grease come off, thenwork slowly from ceiling downwith a sponge and soap solution.Make sure you change the spongeor rag regularly. Do a small area ata time, and overlap areas to keepfrom getting rings.

• If the surface is particularly greasy,clean with mineral spirits on acotton ball. Test the surface in aninconspicuous place first to makesure the paint or finish is notinadvertently removed.

• Don’t touch gilded areas.

Faux-painted Woodwork• Use a damp rag to clean.

Remember to test first.

• If there is evidence of f laking,don’t touch at all.

• Wax with Butcher’s or Renaissancewax to protect.

• Original 18th and 19th centurypaints had clear coat of varnish orshellac over paint. Test in hiddenarea with cotton swab and waterbefore cleaning entire surface.

Heavy Dirt on Woodwork• To removed handprints and scuff

marks, wash with tepid water andeither Ivory Soap, Orvus Paste, orMurphy’s Oil Soap in a weaksolution (e.g., 3 tablespoons soapto one gallon of tepid to warmwater).

• Moisten a clean absorbent cloth inthe soap solution, and gently cleanthe soiled area with moderatepressure in circular strokes. Do notscrub or use any elbow grease onpainted or varnished surfaces.Wipe the area with a cloth andclean water, and followimmediately with a soft dry cloth.

• Stair banisters are often quitesticky from accumulated oils anddirt and should be cleaned withMurphy’s Oil Soap, followed bywiping with a soft cloth and cleanwater, and finally, with a soft drycloth. If the banisters remain stickyafter this treatment, theaccumulated residue should becleaned by wiping the banisterswith mineral spirits and thendrying with a clean dry soft cloth.For weekly maintenance, use amagnetic wipe cloth to dust thebanister, and clean with water andsoap (Ivory, Orvus Paste orMurphy’s Oil Soap) only asnecessary.

Woodwork


11

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Walls and CeilingsWalls• If the wall surface is secure, dust

from top to bottom with a long-handled dust mop fitted with aclean absorbent cotton or magneticcloth cover. Do not use any treatedcloth for dusting walls.

• Sweep the walls gently from top tobottom, changing the cloth whenit becomes dirt y. If walls are verydusty, vacuum with the brushf loor attachment to minimizeredistribution of dust throughoutthe room.

Wallpaper• Be careful of wallpaper that is

detached or peeling from the wall.This may be due to slow drying ofthe plaster wall loosening thewallpaper adhesive, or to highlevels of relative humidit y that mayhave weakened the adhesive bondof the wallpaper. Care must betaken to avoid damaging loosewallpaper during dusting.

• Do nothing if the paper ishistorically significant.

• If wallpaper isn’t historicallysignificant and is secured to thewall, dust from top to bottomwith a dust wipe or magneticcloth. Remove surface grime withsoft brush or vacuum on lowsuction.

• Don’t touch paper with thevacuum head. Use screen .

• Don’t use vacuum on delicate orf locked papers.

• Use rubber or vinyl erasers forlimited cleaning. Don’t use pinkerasers, as they can leave a residue.

• Consult a conservator before usingwater or other solutions to cleanwallpaper.

Ceilings• Clean ceilings as directed for

painted wall surfaces.

• Flaking and blistering paint oftenindicates structural or moistureproblems. Check with aprofessional to determine thesource of the problem.

• If the ceiling surface is historic andappears to be f laking or blistering,do not attempt any cleaning. Checkwith a professional conservator.

“ To Clean PaperedWalls. — The very bestmethod is to sweep offlightly all the dust,then rub the paperwith stale bread —cut the crust off verythick, and wipestraight down from thetop, then begin at thetop again, and so on.”

Hale, Sarah Josepha.The Good Housekeeperor, the Way to LiveWell, and to Be WellWhile We Live. Boston:Otis, Broaders, &Company, 1841.


12


13

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

WindowsGlass Panes• Do not use commercial window

cleaners. Commercial compoundsoften contain silicone ordetergents that leave residue filmswhich are difficult to remove.

• Never use a spraybottle of windowcleaner. Aerosoland hand-pumpedsprays are alsohard to confine,and may fall onsurroundingsurfaces that mightbe damaged bymoisture or bychemical agents inthe windowcleaning solution.

• Dampen a clean white soft cloth ina solution made of equal parts ofdistilled water and isopropylalcohol to which a few drops ofhousehold ammonia have beenadded. Wipe the windowpane withmoderate pressure in circularmovements, and polish thewindow with a dry soft lint-freecloth or chamois leather. Do notallow the cleaning solution tocome in contact with anyvarnished or painted wood surface,as the alcohol content in thesolution may harm these finishes.

Windows with AppliedUltraviolet Film• Use only distilled water and a clean

soft cotton cloth to clean anywindow treated with an appliedUV filter film. Dry immediately.

Window Fact orStatement

After dustingfurniture, check forwax deposits. Dip a Q-tip in warm distilledwater and gently applyto a small inconspicu-ous area where there isfinish, not bare wood.Allow to dry, and thencheck for bloom ordiscoloring. If wooddoes not show signs ofbloom, mix distilledwater with a teaspoonof Ivory cleaner andapply gently with softcotton cloth to areas ofwax build-up. Dryimmediately.

If the surface isespecially grimy, test asmall area first andscrub the surface verygently with 0000 steelwool dipped in turpen-tine. This is especiallygood for cleaning thegoo found under brasshardware.

• Do not polish the window andavoid any excessive rubbing. Followthe manufacturer’s suggestions forfurther cleaning.

Windows with SeparateUltraviolet Roller Shades orPlexi Sheet Covers• Follow the manufacturer’s

instructions for cleaning.

• Do not spray anything directlyonto the plexi or glass as it couldrun onto painted surfaces andcould harm the plexi.

window photo — can be vertical


14


15

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Fixtures & Hardware(Doorknobs, Locks, Grates, Grillwork, etc.)

Brass• Check first to see if the piece has

been lacquered (look for coloredpooling in inner corners or at thebase) If so, dust the fixture withclean soft cloth.

• For unlacquered brass, removefixture and clean separately.Cleaners can damage painted andfinished wooden surfaces.If the piece can’t beremoved, take extra carenot to touch the painted orfinished wooden surface.

• Clean with mineral spiritsapplied with cotton balls orswabs, followed by a wipeof alcohol.

• If the brass is spott y ormarred with fingerprints,polishing may be necessary.Use a f lannel jeweler’s cloththat has one sideimpregnated with jeweler’s rouge,3M’s Tarnishield or NevrDull toclean polish brass.

• After cleaning with all materialsother than the Tarnishield, waxwith a thin coat of hardmicrocrystalline wax such asRenaissance Wax or bowling alleywax.

• Buff well with a soft cloth.

Iron• Clean with mineral spirits applied

with cotton balls or swabs,followed by a wipe of alcohol.

• Wax with microcrystalline wax.

• Do not wax painted metal unlessthe metal feature, such as adoorknob, is regularly handled.

“ Need a quote aboutfixtures. Some personsrub in linseed-oil;others mix bees-waxwith a little spirits ofturpentine and rosin,making it so that itcan be put on with asponge, and wiped offwith a soft rag. Otherskeep in a bottle thefollowing mixture: twoounces of spirits ofturpentine, four table-spoonfuls of sweet-oil,and one quart of milk.This is applied with asponge, and wiped offwith a linen rag.”

Beecher, Catharine E.& Stowe, HarrietBeecher. The AmericanWoman’s Home or,Principles of DomesticScience. Hartford:Harriet Beecher StoweCenter, 1998 (originallyprinted 1869).

Ceramic and Glass Fixturesand Hardware• Use window glass cleaning solution

(see Windows, on page 13) appliedwith cotton balls or a cloth diaper.

• Use swabs for cleaning difficult toreach areas.

• Rinse thoroughly with a water-dampened cloth.


16


17

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Light Fixtures• Dust the fixture carefully with a

soft brush.

• Remove glass globes from fixtureand place in a padded dishpan.Clean with window glass cleaner(see Windows, on page 11?) appliedwith cotton swabs, balls, or a softcotton cloth.

• Do not try to clean metal fixtureswithout first checking with aprofessional conservator. Manyfixtures are made of differentkinds of metals or have beenpainted to give a faux finish.

• Vacuum or brush lampshadescarefully. Many are made of silk,which shatters over time from lightdamage.

• Make sure power is off beforedoing any work! Check lamp wiresand plugs. If an outlet is loose onthe wall, tighten it using ascrewdriver.

• Don’t run wires under rugs wherepeople walk. Wires can fragmentand start a fire.

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Hearths & MantelsWooden Mantels• Dust all wooden mantels as

directed for painted, varnished,and clear-finished wood withmagnetic or soft cloth.

• Avoid using a treated cloth onpainted or lacquered surfaces.

• Interiors of many fireplaces areoften quite dusty from old sootand cluttered with fallen mortardebris from chimney. Sweep outwith a whiskbroom and dustpan.Dust interiors of fireplace regularlyas part of the ongoingmaintenance schedule.

Stone and Marble Hearthsand Mantel Surrounds• Remove surface dust with a brush,

cloth, or vacuum using the softround brush attachment.

• If marble is highly polished, wipewith dampened cloth whennecessary.

• Clean marble withRenaissance wax, whichwill also serve toprotect it.

Brick Hearths andSurrounds• Remove surface dust with a brush,

cloth, or vacuum using the softround brush attachment.

• If brickwork shows signs of spallingor f laking, do not do anything further.Consult a professional for advice.

• Test clean a small area using warmwater and a few drops of soap on acloth. Then clean brick carefully andimmediately wipe with clear waterand dry with a cloth.


18

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Window Shades(wooden, plastic or metal)

• Remove general dust with amagnetic cloth.

• If nonhistoric, take downshades and clean withlukewarm water and then dryimmediately.

• Do not get tapes on venetianblinds wet, as they may stain.

• Do not allow water solution to siton brickwork since it is very hardto dry.

• Apply a light coating ofRenaissance wax or bowling alleywax to protect the surface.

Fireplace Tiles• Wipe with a damp cloth.

• Clean according to Ceramics, butbe careful, as tile edges areunglazed. If moisture seeps in,then it can cause the glazed surfaceto spall (f lake off) permanently.


19

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Books & BookshelvesHANDLING TIPS:

Remove a book from a shelf by eitherpushing the books on either sideback and removing the book byholding the covers on either side ofthe binding, or pull the book fromthe rear. Never grab a book by thetop or sides of the spine. These arevery weak places and are likely tobreak. Open books very carefully. Donot crack the binding. When booksare open, have padded blocks to putunder the covers to take the strain offthe binding. Turn the pages usingupper-right corner. Do not moistenyour fingers to turn pages.

• Work from the top shelf down.

• Clean the shelf with the appropriatemethod (See furniture section).Do not wax surfaces that maycome in contact with the books.

• Clean books by holding fore edge(long edge), hold firmly closed.With a soft brush, sweep away,down the book, from your body. Ifthere are torn or broken edges, donot brush these off. Brush spineand boards very carefully.

• Remove any material that is in thebooks such as pressed f lowers,paper clips, or newsprint. Ifappropriate, place items in anenvelope and store in a safe place.

• If the spine or cover is loose ordetached, tie in place lightly withcotton twill tape. To protect theboards, be sure to tie in bothdirections.

• For a deeper cleaning, vacuumstable books carefully using a softbrush attachment and decreasedsuction.

• Don’t use cleaners such as saddlesoap or English leather dressings,as they can permanently adhere tothe leather.

• Before replacing books, check theshelf for nails, ridges, or grooves. Ifthere are ridges in the shelf, linethe shelf with anothermaterial,

such as acid free corrugatedcardboard to correct theinconsistency.

• If the shelf is sagging, determine ifit can withstand the weight of thebooks you are planning to put onit. If it cannot, do not replace thebooks.

• Do not push books all the way tothe back of the shelf; they need aircirculation behind them.

• Do not squeeze books onto a shelf.Tight storage will crush embossingand scratch leather.

Supplies Needed:acid-free tissuebrushesmylar tapeacid-free paper formarkers

open book silouette —aerial view


20

• Do not lean books at an angle; thiswill break the spine

• If a book is to be displayed on itsside in direct contact with woodfurniture, cut a piece of Mylar to

fit between the objects. The leatherin the bookbinding will irreparablydamage wood finishes.


21

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

CeramicsHANDLING TIPS:

Inspect the object before moving it.Be prepared to compensate for anyweaknesses when moving it. Do notwear loose clothing that may catch,knock over, or drag across objects.Cotton gloves do not provideadequate friction for handlingceramics. Wear latex (surgical)gloves for metallic lusterware,extensively gilded, or chemicallyunstable ceramics.

Do not pick up any ceramic byhandles, knobs, or spouts, even ifthey are meant for that purpose.Remove all detachable parts, such aslids. Use both hands when pickingup any item; use one hand tosupport the objectand the other tocradle the object.Never stack platesmore than sixdeep withoutadequate padding;rims can crackand break easily.Always carryindividual objectsin a padded basketor box. Groups ofsmall objects canbe carriedtogether in a padded basket or box.Remember to keep adequatepadding between them.

Porous Ceramics:Unglazed, Low-fired Earthenwares, Soft-paste “Imitation” Porcelain

• Dust gently with a soft cotton clothor a soft brush.

• Do not immerse in water. Do notwet clean under any circumstances.

Non-Porous Ceramics:High-fired Pottery or Stonewares, Hard-paste “True” Porcelain

• First dust gently with a soft cottoncloth or soft brush.

• Check with ultraviolet light in alight tight room to see if there areany old repairs that are not visible tothe eye. If there are, do not wet clean.

• If dirt and grime remain, the objectmay be wet cleaned. In a rubberdishpan make a weak solution ofIvory/Orvis and lukewarm water.Use only a small amount of soap;do not create so many bubbles thatyou cannot see the object in thewater.

Fact or StatementAbout Ceramics

Dip a Q-tip in warmdistilled water andgently apply to a smallinconspicuous areawhere there is finish,not bare wood. Allowto dry, and then checkfor bloom or discolor-ing.



22

• Wear rubber gloves to improvegrip.

• Immerse and wash carefully with asoft cloth, do not scrub. Rinsethoroughly in another rubberdishpan of lukewarm water and adrop of ammonia to aid in drying.Dry immediately, with a soft cloth.If there is extensive ornamentationand decoration, use a hair dryer onlow cool speed.

• Do not clean antique ceramics inthe dishwasher. The abrasives inthe dishwasher soap can easilyremove gilt work and can pit oretch the surface of the china.


23

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Framed ObjectsHANDLING TIPS:

Before touching any framed object,examine the object, the frame, andthe hanging mechanism carefully. Donot proceed if any of these lookfragile. Wear gloves if the frame ismetal or gilded. Gilt rubs off veryeasily and is highly susceptible to theoils and salts on your hands. Handlea gilded frame by touching onlyungilded areas. Never touch thesurface of a painting or other framedobject. Never carry a painting by itsstretcher, as you candamage the painting withyour fingers. Always usetwo people to move aframed object larger than24" x 36.”

Carry only one framedobject at a time. Alwaysuse two hands; supportthe frame with one handat the bottom and onehand on one of the sides.When carrying a framedobject, the image shouldface you. Before returningthe object to the wall, be sure thehanging mechanism is in goodcondition. If there is any doubt, donot rehang.

Frames and Glass• Dust the frame with a soft cloth or

brush. Be very careful of whateveris housed in the frame whendusting the frame.

• Gilded frames should only becleaned with a soft brush.

• Vacuum the reverse of the framewith a vacuum on low suction. Donot vacuum if there is noticeablef laking or the backing is unstable.Be extremely careful not to nick ortouch the back of the frame withthe vacuum.

• Clean the glass as you would amirror, being very careful of theframe and the object in the frame.Do not allow any moisture to seepbelow the glass.

Supplies Needed:framer’s tapescrew eyespicture wireplexiglas cleanerglass cleanerpicture hooksframing points/gunfoamcore

Paintings and Needlework• Before cleaning, determine if the

object is stable. Do not attempt toclean a painting or a piece offramed needlework that is fragileor f laking.

• If a painting is stable, gently dustthe surface with a soft brush. Donot use a dusting cloth, it maycatch or snag on the surface.

• If a piece of needlework is stable,vacuum it very gently through ascreen with a vacuum on low

a piece of lovely art in afancy frame, I will silouettethe frame.


24

power. Be extremely careful,needlework is often very fragile.

Framed Paper Objects• If the object is determined to be

stable, dust the surface lightly witha brush.

Mirrors• Dust ornately carved wood or

gesso frames lightly using a softbrush or low power air brush.

• Gilded frames should be verylightly dusted; do not allow anymoisture to touch the glass orframe.

Framed Objects

• Check the securit y and stabilit y ofthe hanging device before anycleaning.

• Lightly dust the mirror surface.

• If deeper cleaning is necessary, usea small wad of cotton battingdampened with mineral spirits.Buff with clean dry batting.

• Avoid touching the frame withcleaning solution. Never use aspray bottle for application ofcleaning materials, there is no


25

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

FurnitureHANDLING TIPS:

moved separately. When relocatingsuch furniture, carry each pieceseparately. Secure all moveable piecessuch as doors and drop lids with f latcloth twill tape. Avoid rope, twine,and all adhesive tapes.

Remove drawers using a paper tagto mark exact location. Avoid usingpulls except to start drawers out of

their slots. Removethe top drawer first.Pull the drawer outstraight. Do not forcesticky drawers. Whenreturning drawers, bevery careful of theircorners. Do not banginto the body of thepiece. Remove shelvessince they can fall outand be damaged, falland damagesomething else, andadd a lot of weight.

Lift chairs at the seat rails. Do notuse the crest rail, arms, or legs ashandles. Remove slipcovers orcushions before handling or movingchairs. Do not lean on chairs or placeanything on seats or rails.

When moving tables, secure swinglegs and other moving parts. Removeleaves. Lift by the apron or skirt;never lift a table by the top. If thetabletop is made of marble and isremovable, take it off and transport itvertically. If carried f lat, it may breakunder its own weight.

Be careful when vacuuming aroundobjects. Do not allow the vacuum, hose,cord or metal tubes to touch the object.This may cause significant damage.

In general, you do not need to weargloves when handling furniture.Wear gloves when handling metal orfabric elements on furniture. If thereare any loose pieces (finials,detachable cornices, etc.), removethem to a labeled container and keepthem with the object. Remove anyobjects that are displayed or stored onor in the piece. Avoidtouching any inlay,veneer, carving, orpaint on furniture.

Never trusthandles, even if theyare installed formoving and lifting.Never push or pullfurniture. Furnitureshould always be liftedand carried, evenwhen relocating thepiece only a fewinches. Legs offurniture are especially vulnerable toeasy breakage.

Always pick up furniture at thearea of major gravit y, for example,under the seat rail rather than byarmrests or backs of chairs. Armrestsand ornamental backs are usuallyapplied by joining with adhesives anddowelling and are most likely to havebeen previously repaired. Any appliedand, especially, any repaired area isalways structurally weakest and mostlikely to split, fracture or break whenmoved incorrectly.

Furniture made of compositepieces, such as a breakfront cabinet,secretary, or marble topped piece, wasoriginally constructed to be lifted and

need the chairphoto that wasused on thef lyer

Supplies Needed:cotton swabsbowling alley waxmicrocrystalline waxdust clothshide gluebuffing clothsmineral spiritshake (Japaneseartists’) brushescotton gloves


26

• Clear-finished wood is finishedeither in shellac, lacquer, orvarnish. Provided the finish is notcracked, lifting, or f laking, thesepieces can be dusted with soft drycotton cloth or, when the ambientrelative humidit y is below 40percent, with a humidified cottoncloth or a magnetic cloth.

• Commercial products may not beneeded if a humidified cotton clothor magnetic polyethylene/nylon fiber cloth is used tobreak the electrostaticattachment of dust tosurfaces in conditions of lowrelative humidit y. If usedroutinely, commercialproducts may leave anaccumulated residue ofmineral oil that can becomesticky and actually attractdust, and requires fairlyaggressive solvent cleaningwith mineral spirits toremove.

• Vacuuming is often the safestway to dust most furniture,particularly any objectvulnerable to abrasion andscratching from inadvertentrubbing of sharp dust and dirtparticles across a smoothly polishedsurface. If the dust accumulationappears to be heavy enough to dullthe shine of a piece of furnitureand if there are no surfaceirregularities such as f laking orlifting veneer, vacuum the piecewith the soft brush attachment.

• If f laking or lifting veneer ispresent, remove dust by an airjetfrom a blow-bulb such as an ear

syringe, or even by directed airfrom a soda fountain straw, andcatch displaced dust from the airby the vacuum hose nozzle heldnear the area being dusted.

• When cleaning case pieces, removedrawers and all lining material.Carefully vacuum drawer interiors.Dust the exteriors. Use a vacuumon low suction and a brush forcleaning deep carving.

Furniture

• Remove brass hardware. Recordthe accession number of the casepiece it came from and tag thebrass. Record the location on thecase piece. Refer to the metalsection for cleaning instructions.

• Remove slipcovers and any otherremovable textiles. Consult thetextile section for cleaninginstructions. Vacuum permanentupholstery with low suctionthrough a plastic screen.

Cleaning WaxDeposits fromFurniture

• After dustingfurniture, check forwax deposits.

• Dip a Q-tip in warmdistilled water andgently apply to asmall inconspicuousarea where there isfinish, not barewood. Allow to dry,and then check forbloom or discoloring.

• If wood does notshow signs of bloom,mix distilled waterwith a teaspoon ofIvory cleaner andapply gently with softcotton cloth to areasof wax build-up. Dryimmediately.

• If the surface isespecially grimy, testa small area firstand scrub thesurface very gentlywith 0000 steel wooldipped in turpentine.This is especiallygood for cleaning thegoo found underbrass hardware.


27

• Replace or shake out your dustingcloth often. Do not use a featherduster.

• Use a soft brush on carvings. Useextreme caution when dusting gilt.Clean by dusting lightly with a softbrush. Use a softbrush or apadded lowpowered vacuum to remove dust indeeply carved areas.

• To wax furniture, use a clean clothto apply a small amount of pastewax such as Johnson’s bowlingalley wax or Renaissance wax. Donot use household polishes, suchas Endust, Pledge, Olde English,or spray waxes with silicone.Allow to dry, then buff with lotsof elbow grease.

• Wax furniture only once everyyear or two. More just creates awaxy build-up.

• Dust with magnetic cloth inbetween polishings to removedust.

ClocksDust the exterior case only. Have a

professional clean the clock face, theworks or the reverse of the glass doorpanels.

Furniture

“ Varnished furnitureshould be rubbed onlywith silk, except occa-sionally, when a littlesweet-oil should berubbed over, andwiped off carefully.For unvarnishedfurniture, use bees-wax, a little softenedwith sweet-oil; rub itin with a hard brush,and polish withwoolen and silk rags.Some persons rub inlinseed-oil; others mixbees-wax with a littlespirits of turpentineand rosin, making it sothat it can be put onwith a sponge, andwiped off with a softrag. Others keep in abottle the followingmixture: two ounces ofspirits of turpentine,four table-spoonfuls ofsweet-oil, and onequart of milk. This isapplied with a sponge,and wiped off with alinen rag.”

Beecher, Catharine E.& Stowe, HarrietBeecher. The AmericanWoman’s Home or,Principles of DomesticScience. Hartford:Harriet Beecher StoweCenter, 1998 (originallyprinted 1869).

Musical InstrumentsHANDLING TIPS:

Do not attempt to move large casepieces, like pianos, harpsichords, ororgans, without first consulting with aknowledgeable conservator or amover. The works can be severelydamaged if the instrument is movedincorrectly.

Marble TopsClean the case as you would regular

furniture. Dust keys or delicate sections,e.g., the music rack

with soft brush. Do not attempt toclean the internal works of the instru-ment.

Apply Renaissance Wax with a cleancloth to polished areas only. Use thewax like a cleaner by moving it over thesurface and turning your cloth often.Let dry when your cloth comes awayclean. Buff.


28


29

○ ○

GlassHANDLING TIPS:

Inspect the object before moving itand be prepared to compensate forany weaknesses when moving it. Beespecially aware of any previousbreaks and repairs.

Do not wear loose clothing thatmay catch, knock over, or drag acrossobjects.

Do not wear cotton gloves. Theydo not provide adequate frictionfor handling glass. Wear rubbergloves to improve your grip.

Do not pick up any glassobject by handles, knobs, orspouts, even if they are meantfor that purpose.

Remove all detachable parts,such as lids. Use both hands topick up any item, with one handunder the object and the otherhand cradling the piece toequalize the stress on the object.

Never stack glass; rims crackand break easily.

• Dust glass with a soft, lint-free cloth or soft brush.Change the cloth often, as abuild-up of grime may scratchthe surface. Do not usesprays, oils, or liquids.

• Dust applied labels, decorations,gilding, and painting with extremecare.

• Be careful if an object shows signsof damage or repair.

• To deep clean glass, make asolution of Ivory soap andlukewarm water in a rubber

dishpan. Use only a small amountof soap, do not create so manybubbles you cannot see the objectin the water. Immerse the objectand wash carefully with a softcloth. Do not scrub. Rinsethoroughly in a separate rubberdishpan of lukewarm water withone drop of ammonia to aid indrying. Dry immediately with a

Supplies Needed:dish panrubber matspongecloth for washingcloths for drying/buffingIvory LiquidOrvus soaprubber/latex gloveshair dryer

soft cloth. Use a hair dryer on cooland low speed to dry ornatedecoration. Do not deep clean ifglass shows signs of instabilit y,previous repairs or damage, or ifany metal element is present (avoidtouching these areas).

• Do not clean glass in thedishwasher, as the abrasives in thedishwasher soap can easily pit or


30

etch the surface of the glassware,and the heat from the water canbreak delicate pieces.

Chandeliers• Turn off the power first.

• If chandelier can be taken apart,take a photograph (or several) ofthe chandelier before disassemblingit. Photos provide a useful guidewhen reassembling a chandelier toensure glass parts are returned totheir proper location.

• Clean in the same manner as otherglass objects. Dust with a clean,lint-free cloth or soft brush.

• If the chandelier can’t be takenapart, use a commercial “chandeliercleaner,” which is sprayed on theglass surfaces, allowed to drip ontoa plastic mat and absorbent towel,and then wiped off and dried.

MirrorsTo handle and clean mirrors, see

Framed Objects on page 27.Note that silvered portion of a mir-

ror can separate from the glass anddiscolor from age, moisture, etc. Noth-ing can be done to fix this, other thanto put in a ref lective surface in the lossareas or, as a last resort, replace themirror. This should only be undertakenif the mirror is NOT original to frame.


31

○ ○ ○

MetalsHANDLING TIPS:

Always wear cotton gloves whenhandling metals. The salts and oils inyour hands are extremely corrosive tometals. Remove any detachable parts,such as lids, and carry themseparately. Use both hands whenpicking up any object. Place one handunder the object and use the other tosupport the piece. Never pick up ametal object by handles, knobs, orspouts, even if they are made for thatpurpose.

Never allow metal objects to comein contact with one another. Evendetachable parts should be padded.

Groups of small objects may becarried together in a padded box orbasket. They must be protected fromeach other.

Pewter and Lead• Dust lightly with a soft cotton

cloth or soft brush.

• A microcrystalline wax such asRenaissance Wax may be used tocoat and protect pewter or lead.Coat the entire object sinceuncoated areas may be susceptibleto spot corrosion.

• Spots of loosely adhered whitepowder indicate active corrosion.Seek the advice of a metalsconservator as soon as possible.

• Do not try to polish pewter orlead. Pewter does not have a shineand should age.

Silver• Dust lightly with a soft cotton

cloth or soft brush. Polish residuescan be removed using mineralspirits and elbow grease (with atoothpick and cotton). Avoidscratching the metal.

• To deep clean, wash in a plastic tubwith a mild detergent such as Ivoryor Orvus.

• To remove tarnish, make a slurry(the consistency of thick cream) ofprecipitated chalk and distilledwater and apply with cotton.Denatured alcohol can be added toremove tarnish more quickly, but itrequires proper ventilation and cancause damage to some silversurfaces. Using a circular motion,polish gently, but make sure tochange the cotton regularly toavoid abrading the metal surface.

• Wash again in Ivory or Orvus,rinse well and dry immediatelywith a soft cotton cloth and hairdryer if there is ornate decoration.

• Apply a thin coating ofmicrocrystalline wax such asRenaissance Wax with a soft clothor diaper to coat and protect theobject. Turn the cloth often. Besure to coat the entire object, asany exposure may lead to spotcorrosion.

• If a large piece of silver is only fordisplay and is not moved ortouched regularly, it can belacquered by a professional metalsperson to retard tarnishing. The

Supplies Needed:running waterdish panrubber matspongecloth for washingcloths for drying/buffingsilver cleanerbrass/copper cleanerpewter cleanerwire brush0000 steel woolrubber/latex glovesmicrocrystalline waxacetonesoft toothbrush


32

piece should be inspectedregularly, as moisture can cause thelacquer to “bloom” (turn white)and to peel off.

• Keep silver away from wool or feltmaterials that are often used indrawer linings or for storage. Thesecan cause the piece to tarnishquickly.

• Store silver in Pacific Cloth bags,which inhibit tarnishing.

• It is better not to use commercialpolishes regularly, as they containabrasive materials that canpermanently scratch or mar thesilver’s surface. Some polishes,such as 3M’s Tarnishield can beused on everyday silver, but shouldnot be used on historic materials.

Iron• Dust iron with a soft cotton cloth

or soft brush. Be sure to removeall ashes from andirons, grates, orfireplace tools.

• Clean with mineral spirits andcotton balls/swabs for deepcleaning.

• Light surface corrosion may bereduced using 0000 steel wool andpenetrating oil (CRC 3-36 or WD-40). Follow by degreasing withacetone, then coat with amicrocrystalline wax.

Brass/Bronze & Copper• Dust with a soft cotton cloth or

soft brush.

• Use mineral spirits and a Q-Tip toremove polish residues. Avoidscratching the metal.

• To deep clean, polish with Nevr-Dull, using a small wad of cottoncloth. Buff excess with a lint freecloth.

• Use a microcrystalline wax to coatand protect the object. Be sure tocoat the entire object, since anyexposure may lead to spotcorrosion.

Tinned Metal• Dust with a soft clean cloth.

• Remove dirt with mineral spiritson cotton balls.

• Wax with microcrystalline wax toprotect from moisture andhandling.

• Before replacing a metal object thatrests on another object (table,textile, etc.), cut a piece of felt orMylar to fit under the metal object.This protects whatever it is restingon from corrosion.

Metals

Need a MetalStatement

If wood does notshow signs of bloom,mix distilled waterwith a teaspoon ofIvory cleaner and applygently with soft cottoncloth to areas of waxbuild-up. Dry immedi-ately.



33

○ ○ ○ ○

CarpetsHANDLING TIPS:

Always use at least two people tohandle a rug. Roll the rug up withpile side out and take outside toclean. Don’t fold the rug.

Modern Carpeting• Protect wooden baseboards,

wallpaper, and furniture withpolyethylene foam sheeting(Volara) while vacuuming. Vacuumat full suction.

• Always remove carpet fromhistoric areas for spot or deepcleaning.

• Use a product such as Resolve tospot clean as necessary.

• Have the carpet professionallycleaned once a year.

Historic Carpeting• Protect wooden baseboards,

wallpaper, and furniture withpolyethylene foam sheeting (Volara)while vacuuming.

• Use a HEPA-st yle vacuum to collectdirt and possible air-bornmicroorganisms from spreading.

• Using a fiberglass or nylon piece ofscreening or mesh, vacuum the rugat less than full suction.

• Never use beater bars or rotarybrush attachments on historiccarpeting.

• Cover all fringe areas with a pieceof cardboard during vacuuming.The suction on even partial-strength vacuums can removeantique fringe from a carpet.

• If a rug is very dirt y, take it outsideand gently shake it to get rid ofexcess dirt. This should always bedone by at least two people.

• Vacuum rugs on both sides. Pilerugs should be vacuumed in thedirection of the pile.

• For heavy-duty cleaning, consult atextile/rug conservator aboutspecific requirements.

“ To Wash Carpets. —Shake and beat it well;lay it upon the floor,and tack it firmly; thenwith a clean flannelwash it over with onequart of bullock’s gall,mixed with threequarts of soft coldwater, and rub it offwith a clean flannel orhouse cloth. Any par-ticular dirty spotshould be rubbed withpure gall.’

The oftener theseare taken up andshaken, the longer theywill wear, as the dustand dirt underneathgrind them out. Sweepcarpets with a stiffhair brush, instead ofan old corn broom, ifyou wish them to wearlong or look well. Atany rate, keep a goodbroom purposely for thecarpet.”

Hale, Sarah Josepha.The Good Housekeeperor, the Way to Live Well,and to Be Well WhileWe Live. Boston: Otis,Broaders, & Company,1841.


34


35

○ ○ ○ ○

TextilesHANDLING TIPS:

When moving large textiles, supportthem in a large basket. Avoid sharp,tight folds.

Avoid touching upholstery whenmoving furniture. If touching isunavoidable, wear cottongloves only if they willprovide an adequate grip onthe object. If they will not,wash and dry handsthoroughly before handlingthe object. Take removabletextiles to a table forexamination and cleaning.

When cleaning windowtreatments and bed hangings,take several photographs ormake sketches of how the textiles arehung before removing them.

Handle fabrics as little as possibleand, whenever possible, supporttextiles on an acid-free tissue linedtray or other rigid support whenmoving. Carry costumes and largetextiles cradled over both arms toevenly distribute the weight andavoid dragging any portion on thef loor.

• Check the condition of the textilecarefully. If the textile is sturdy,vacuum using either a hand-held orlow-powered vacuum and a cleanbrush attachment (do not allow thisattachment to touch the ground orany other dirt y area), or vacuumthrough a fiberglass screenbordered with a white cotton tape.

• While vacuuming, do not drag thebrush attachment across the textile;

lift and lower the brush as you moveit over the material. Never allow thehead of the attachment to touch thetextile.

• Examine the material often to makesure you are not damaging thetextile with too much suction.

• Stay away from weakened areas.Avoid vacuuming near metallicthreads, braid, trim, or areas of wear.

• Vacuum upholstery through afiberglass screen. Use care not totouch the object with the vacuum.Remember that any part of thevacuum may damage the object.

• To clean costumes, use nylonscreen/mesh and an upholsteryattachment on the lowest setting,and hold the nozzle above the fabric.Vacuum costumes with extremecaution, as threads can easily bepulled by the suction of the vacuum.

Need Textile Tidbit

Allow to dry, andthen check for bloom ordiscoloring. If wooddoes not show signs ofbloom, mix distilledwater with a teaspoonof Ivory cleaner andapply gently with softcotton cloth to areas ofwax build-up. Dryimmediately. If thesurface is especiallygrimy, test a small areafirst and scrub thesurface very gentlywith 0000 steel wooldipped.


36


37

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Bathrooms & KitchensGeneral Cleaning• Remove iron rust stains with

oxalic acid. Wear gloves and safet yglasses or a face shield, and followmanufacturer’s instructions foruse.

• Scum and mineral deposits can besoftened and removed usingcommercially made cleaners forthis purpose, which can be foundat grocery and hardware stores.

• Heavy mineral stains can beremoved by the following method:— remove the fixture from the

room and take it outside— stop up the drain and fill the

bowl with a weak mixture ofmuriatic acid and water.

— rinse thoroughly before rein-stalling the fixture (do notdump solution on plant materi-als, as it will kill them)

— don’t use this method on castiron fixtures, as it will perma-nently damage them.

Tubs• If the enamel surface of cast iron

tub is scratched or scuffed, it canbe buffed to some extent withsuch materials as tin oxide, whichis used to polish marble. Or trycar polishing compounds that areused to rub out car paint surfaces.

• While resin tub coatings makeyour cast iron tub look new again,they only last 15-20 years and can’tbe removed or renewed.

• Do not use strong acidic solutionsor commercial kitchen cleaners asthey contain abrasives that can dullenamel finishes.

Sinks & Commodes• The same polishing agents

mentioned above can be used onenamel tubs.

Chrome Fixtures• Chromium is usually plated on to

other base metals, especially forfixtures. In itself it does notcorrode.

• Chrome can suffer from peelingand bubbling. Do not try to f lattenthe bubbles or repair the peeling,as you will damage the chrome andencourage corrosion of the basemetal.

• Do not wash with water. Cleanwith commercial chrome cleaner orwith methylated spirits on a pieceof cotton to remove dirt.

FloorsSee specific entries under Cleaning

Procedures — Floors or Ceramic Tiles.

“ Abathroom or kitchenquote. Beat yourcarpets with yourcarpet rods untilperfectly clean fromdust, then if there beany ink spots take itout with a lemon, andif oil spots, take out asin the foregoing re-ceipt.”

Roberts, Robert.The House Servant’sDirectory. Boston:Monroe and Francis,1827.


38


39

APPENDIX

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Sources of Technical AssistanceAmerican Association of Museums1225 Eye Street, NW – Suite 200Washington, DC 20005(202) 289-1818www.aam-us.orgW/T/P

American Association for State& Local History1717 Church StreetNashville, TN 37203(615) 320-3203www.aaslh.orgE/T/P

American Institute for Conservationof Historic & Artistic Works1400 16th Street, NW, Suite 340Washington, DC 20036(202) 452-9545palimpsest.stanford.edu/aicR/P/T

American Library Association50 E. Heron AvenueChicago, IL 60611(800) 545-2433www.ala.orgT/P

Association for PreservationTechnology InternationalP.O. Box 3511Williamsburg, VA 23187(550) 373-1621www.apti.orgT/P

Balboa Art Conservation CenterP.O. Box 3755San Diego, CA 92163(619) 236-9702R

Bay Area Art Conservation GuildP.O. Box 2272Ranco Cordova, CA 95241palimpsest.stanford.edu/baacg/guild.htmR

Canadian Conservation Institute1030 Inness RoadOttawa, Canada K1A OM8(613) 998-3721www.cci-icc.gc.caC/W/T/P

Center for Materials Research& EducationMuseum Support Center/SmithsonianInstitutionWashington, DC 20560(301) 238-3700www.si.edu/scmreT

Chicago Area Conservation Group2600 Kerlinger RoadGeneva, IL 60134palimpsest.stanford.edu/cacgC

CoOL - Conservation OnLinepalimpsest.stanford.eduT/P

Conservation Center for Art& Historic Artifacts264 S. 23rd StreetPhiladelphia, PA 19103(215) 545-0613www.ccaha.orgC/T

Conservation Center of the Instituteof Fine Arts14 East 78th StreetNew York, NY 10021(212) 772-5848e-mail: [email protected]

The Foundation Center1400 Connecticut Avenue at K Street, NWWashington, DC 200www.foundationcenter.orgGrant Resource

Conservation Services — SPNEA185 Lyman StreetWaltham, MA 02154(781) 891-1985www.spnea.orgC

Gallery Association of New York StateP.O. Box 345Hamilton, NY 13346(315) 824-2510T

Getty Conservation Institute4503 Glencoe AvenueMarina del Rey, CA 90292(310) 822-2299www.gett y.edu/gciP/R/W

Government Printing OfficeSuperintendent of DocumentsWashington, DC 20402-9325(202) 783-3238www.access.gpo.govPGuild of Book Workers521 Fifth AvenueNew York, NY 10175palimpsest.stanford.edu/byorg/gbw/P/T

Heritage PreservationSuite 5661730 K Street, NWWashington, DC 20006(202) 634-1427www.heritagepreservation.orgT/P/CAP Grants/Emergency Response

Image Permanence InstituteRochester Institute of Technology70 Lomb Memorial DriveRochester, NY 14623(716) 475-5199www.rit.edu/ipiP/T/Testing

Intermuseum ConservationAssociationAllen Art Building83 N. Main StreetOberlin, OH 44074(440) 775-7331www.oberlin.edu/~icaC

Iowa Conservation & PreservationConsortiumc/o State History Societ y of Iowa402 Iowa AvenueIowa Cit y, IA 52240www.grinnell.edu/individuals/stuhrr/icpc/icpc.htmlC/P

Library of CongressPreservation Directorate101 Independence Avenue, SEWashington, DC 20540(202) 707-5213www.loc.gov /preservP/T

Midwest Regional Conservation GuildCumberland Art Conservation3343 Acklen AvenueNashville, TN 37212(615) 269-3868C


40

National Center for Film & VideoPreservationAmerican Film Institute2021 N. Western AvenueLos Angeles, CA 90027(313) 856-7637www.afionline.orgC/T

National Center for PreservationTechnology & TrainingNSU, Box 5682Natchitoches, LA 71497(318) 357-6464www.ncptt.nps.govT/P/R

National Historic Publications &Records CommissionNational Archives BuildingWashington, DC 20408(202) 501-5610www.nara.govR/Grants

National Park ServiceHarpers Ferry CenterDivision of ConservationHarpers Ferry, WV 25425(304) 535-6139www.nps.gov/hfcT/P

National Park ServiceCuratorial Services DivisionP.O. Box 37127Washington, DC 20013-7127www.nps.gov/crmP/T

National Preservation InstituteBox 1702Alexandria, VA 22313703-765-0100www.npi.orgT

New England ConservationAssociationOld Sturbridge Village1 Old Sturbridge Village RoadSturbridge, MA 01566(508) 347-3362C

New York State ConservationConsultancyc/o Textile Conservation WorkshopMain StreetSouth Salem, NY 10590(914) 763-5805C

New York State Office of Parks,Recreation& Historic PreservationBureau of Historic SitesPeebles Island-P.O. Box 219Waterford, NY 12188(518) 237-8643www.nysparks.state.ny.usC/T/W

New Orleans Conservation Guild4101 Burgundy StreetNew Orleans, La. 70117-5306(504) 944-7900(504) 944-8750 (f) www.artrestoration.com/C

Northeast DocumentConservation Center100 Brickstone SquareAndover, MA 01810(978) 470-1010www.nedcc.orgP/T/C

OSHA OfficeU.S. Dept. of Labor200 Constitution Avenue, NWRoom N3101Washington, DC 20210www.osha.govP/T

Pacific Regional ConservationCenterP.O. Box 19000-AHonolulu, HI96819808/847-3511C

Rocky Mountain Conservation CenterUniversit y of DenverDenver, CO 80208(303) 733-2712(303) 733-2508 (fax)www.du.edu/rmccC

Society of American Archivists527 S. Wells St., 5th FloorChicago, IL 60607-3922www.archivists.orgW/P

SOLINET (SE Library Network)1438 W. Peachtree Street, NW, Suite 200Atlanta, GA 30309(404) 892-0943www.solinet.netW/P/T

Straus Center for ConservationHarvard Universit y Art Museums32 Quincy StreetCambridge, MA 02138(617) 495-9400www.artmuseums.harvard.eduC

Textile Conservation CenterMuseum of American Textile History800 Massachusetts AvenueNorth Andover, MA 01845(508) 686-0191C

Textile Conservation WorkshopMain StreetSouth Salem, NY 10590(914) 763-5805C

Upper Midwest ConservationAssociation2400 3rd Avenue S.S. Minneapolis, MN 55404(612) 870-3120www.preserveart.orgC

Virginia Association of Museums1015 E. ClayRichmond, VA 23219(804) 648-8261T

Virginia Conservation AssociationP.O. Box 4314Richmond, VA 23220(804) 358-2006C

Washington Conservation GuildP.O. Box 23364Washington, DC 20026(301) 238-3700 X178palimpsest.stanford.edu/wcg/T/CR

Western Association for ArtConservationc/o Chris StavroudisWAAC Secretary/Treasurer1272 N. Flores StreetLos Angeles, CA 90069palimpsest.stanford.edu/waac/CR

Williamstown Regional ArtConservation LaboratoryClark Art Institute225 South StreetWilliamstown, MA 01267(413) 458-5741RC

Winterthur Museum/Universit y of DelawareProgram in the Conservation of Artistic& Historic Works303 Old CollegeNewark, DE 19716(302) 451-2479seurat.art.udel.edu/ArtConHP.htmlC/T

Appendix: Sources of Technical Assistance


41

APPENDIX

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

SuppliersArchivartBox 428/7 Caesar PlaceMonachie, NJ 01074800-804-8428www.archivart.com

— archival papers

Bookmakers6001 66th AvenueSuite 101Riverdale, MD 20737(301) 459-3384www.in-folio.com/bookmakers

— book conservation supplies

BrownCor International770 South 70th StreetBox 14770Milwaukee, WI 53214www.BCadvantage.com

— ziplock bags— bubble wrap

Bill Cole EnterprisesP.O. Box 60Randolph, MA 02368781-986-2653www.neponset.com.bcemylar

— archival supplies

Conservation ResourcesInternational, Inc.8000-H Forbes PlaceSpringfield, VA 22151(800) 634-6932www.conservationresources.com


Electrolux Corp.(800) 243-9078www.electrolux-usa.com

— vacuum cleaners

GaylordP.O. Box 4901Syracuse, NY 13221-4901(800) 634-6307www.gaylord.com

— conservation and book supplies

Goodway Technologies Corp.420 West AvenueStamford, CT 06902203-359-4708www.goodway.com

— vacuums

HMI Industries3631 Perkins AvenueCleveland, OhioUSA216-432-1990/800-760-4644www.filterqueen.com

— vacuums

Hollinger CorporationP.O. Box 8360Fredericksburg, VA 22404(800) 634-0491

— acid free boxes/paper

Leap Frog TechnologiesP.O. Box 18261408 11th Avenue, Suite 2Altoona, PA 16601(800) 443-7647

— magnetic wipes

Light Impressions Corporation439 Monroe AvenueRochester, NY 14607-3717(800) 935-2900www.lightimpressionsdirect.com

— conservaiton supplies— chemicals

Miehle Inc.9 Independence WayPrinceton, NJ 08540(800) 843-7231www.miele.com

— vacuum cleaners

Modern Solutions6370 Copps AvenueMadison, WI 53716800-288-2023

National Bag Co., Inc.2233 Old Mill RoadHudson, OH 44236(800) 247-6000

— poly zip-lock bags— poly sheeting

New Pig Corporation1 Pork AvenueTipton, PA 16584800-468-4647www.newpig.com

— magnetic wipes— emergency response supplies

Nilfisk300 Techno DriveMalvern, PA 19355800-645-3475www.pa.nilfisk-advance.com

— vacuum cleaners

Process Materials Corporation301 Veterans’ Blvd.Rutherford, NJ 07070(201) 935-2900


PureAir Systems1325 Church StreetClayton, IN 46118317-539-4097www.pureairsystems.com

— vacuum cleaners

TALASDivision of Technical Library Service, Inc.568 BroadwayNew York, NY 10012(212) 219-0770www.talas-nyc.com

— conservation supplies— chemicals

3M Products????

— vacuums

Universit y Products517 Main StreetP.O. Box 101Holyoke, MA 01041-0101(800) 628-1912www.universit yproducts.com

— conservation supplies

White Mop Wringer Company10702 N. 46th CourtTampa, FL 33617813-971-2223www.white-pullmanholt.com

— vacuum cleaners


42


43

Material Type Uses Where to Buy

CHEMICALS/CLEANING MATERIALS

Acetone cleaning label residue off ceramics & glass Hardware Store

Alchol-isopropyl helps in drying process for ceramics/glass

Silver Polish standard silver polishing— 3M Tarnishield— Goddard’s— precipitated chaulk— jeweler’s rouge

Copper/Brass Polish standard copper & brass polishing— 3M Tarnishield— Never-Dull

Glue minor repairs to furniture joints— hide

Pewter Cleaner/Ploish standard pewter cleaning

Plexiglass Cleaner liquid used to polish plexi and remove fingerprints

Ammonia Household (non-sudsy) cleans window panes and picture glass

Soap— Ivory Liquid (dish) cleans ceramics and glass Grocery/Hardware Store— Dirtex (non-aerosol) cleans walls and woodwork Hardware Store— Murphy’s Oil Soap cleans woodwork Grocery/Hardware Store—Orvus Paste cleans more delicate woodwork Conservation Supplier—TSP removes heavy-duty dirt from woodwork/walls

Renaissance/microcrystaline waxcleaning, waxing and coating furniture Conservation Supplirsand marble

bowling alley/hard paste wax cleaning and polishing f loors and furniture Hardware Store

CLEANING SUPPLIES

Broom push variet y for outdoor use; regular for sweeping Hardware Store

Brushes— Artist (tape feral) dusting Art Supply Store— Wire removing rust on iron Hardware Store— Dusting dusting woodwork Hardware Store— Stippling for wax application Art Supply Store— Hake has no metal parts — great for general dusting Art Supply Store— Toothbrush, Children’s good for cleaning hard-to-reach metal areas Grocery Store

Buckets general cleaning Grocery/Hardware Store

Carpet Cleaner good for general cleaning of modern carpeting Grocery/Hardware Store— Resolve

Cloths— Magnetic for picking up dust from woodwork and on objects Leap Frog Tech./New Pig Corp.— Diapers for general, lint-free, dusting Baby Supply Store

Dish mat place in sink or dish pan; helps prevent breakage Hardware/Grocery Storeor damage if object fropped

Dish Pan used to carry small items, wash or soak individual Hardware/Grocery Storeitems during cleaning

Gloves for cleaning glass and ceramics Grocery Store— rubber for holding metal objects, textiles and furniture Conservation Supply Store— cotton for cleaning glass and ceramics Medical Supplier

APPENDIX

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Supplys & Where to Get Them


44


CLEANING SUPPLIES continued

Mops for general wiping down of f loor surfaces— dust Hardware/Grocery Store— f loor Hardware Store

0000 Steel Wool cleaning rust from iron Hardware Store

Sponges for wiping pieces when being washed Hardware/Grocery Store(ceramics, glass and metals)

FR AMING SUPPLIES

Framing points and gun all used to halp rehang framed objects Framing Supplier

Framer’s tape (acid-free) Framing/Conservation Supplier

Eye hooks — assorted sizes Framing Supplier

Picture hooks — assorted sizes Framing Supplier

Picture wire — roll Framing Supplier

2” acid-free foam core board carrying textiles Art Supply Storebacking board for framed prints and paintings

Palette Knife removing old glue from backs of frames Art Supply Storeseparating items that are stuck together

MARKING SUPPLIES

Acid-free tags w/ string temporary marking of object Conservation Supply Store

Temporary changeable labels temporary marking Conservation Supply Store

#2 pencils writing on tags and labels/filling out forms Office Supply Store

Acid-free paper special lists for records Conservation Supply Store

India ink used for marking objects Art Supply Store

Red/white acrylic paints used for marking objects Art Supply Store

MEDICAL SUPPLIES

Syringe irrigation of elaborately carved pieces Drug Storeduring cleaning

Sterile cotton balls or roll used to wipe surfaces with different cleaning agents Drug Store

Cotton swabs good for getting into detail carving on woodwork Medical Supplierand furniture

Breathing masks used when chemicals are in use, Medical/Hardware Storeie. Acetone or mineral spirits

MISCELLANEOUS

Hair dryer (Variable speed w/ used to dry glass and ceramics, especially pieceshot/medium/cool settings) with elaborate, applied, decoration

Ladder — 6’ aluminum Hardware Store

Acid-free tissue wrap broken items/items for moving to another Conservation Supply Storearea/objects for storage/padding

Mattress pads/padding padding of work tables Linen Store

Screening, fiberglas/nylon vacuuming textiles, upholstery or carpets Hardware Store

Sponges — cellulose cleaning ceramics and glass Grocery/Hardware Store

Swabs, cotton cleaning furniture carvings or ceramics detailing Grocery/Medical Supplier

Vacuum (variable power) Electrolux/HMI— canister st yle Light Impressions— portable

Appendix: Supplies and Where to Get Them


45


MISCELLANEOUS continued

Plastic Ziplock Bags storage of broken pieces, small parts that are being Bag Company— assorted sizes cleaned separately (ie. Hardware from chest)

SEWING

Needles Sewing Store

Thread, button (cotton)

— white

— black

Laundry pen marking twill tape with accession number

Velcro closures for silver bags

Pacific silvercloth used to make storage bags for silver(inhibits tarnishing)

Scissors

Twill tape, cotton used to make labels for textiles, rugs and costumes

Muslin used for covering furniture during cleaning, orwhen site is closed to public during off-season

TOOLS

Flashlight to see under peices of furniture Hardware Store

Brads repair of frames, frame backs

WD-40 loosening door locks, hinges

Awl start hole for screw eyes in frame

Hammer

Cordless drill

Level making framed objects level when rehung

Pliers removal of backing boards

Nails

Screws

— slotted

— Phillips

Screw drivers— slotted— Phillips

Appendix: Supplies and Where to Get Them


46


47

American Association for State and Local History. HousekeepingTechniques for the Historic House. Nashville: AASLH, 1978.

American Institute for Conservation. Technical Pamphlets: BasicGuidelines for the Care of Special Collections, Caring for Archi-tecture, Caring for Your Paintings, Caring for Furniture, Caringfor Your Photographs, Caring for Works of Art on Paper, Caringfor Textiles. Washington, D.C.: AIC, 1999.

Butcher-Younghans, Sherry. Historic House Museums: A PracticalHandbook for Their Care, Preservation & Management. New York,N.Y.: Oxford Universit y Press, 1993.

Davis, Nancy. Handle with Care: Preserving Your Heirlooms. Roch-ester, N.Y.: Rochester Museum & Science Center, 1991.

Heritage Preservation/National Park Service. Caring for Your His-toric House. New York: Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1998.

Johnson, Allen F. How to Care for Your Old House: An Owner’sManual. New Haven, CT: Connecticut Trust for Historic Preser-vation, 1987.

Koval, Ralph and Terry. Kovels Quick Tips: 799 Helpful Hints onHow to Care for Your Collectibles. N.Y.: Three Rivers Press, 1995.

APPENDIX

○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○ ○

Useful PublicationsMcGrath, Lee Parr. Housekeeping with Antiques. New York, N.Y.:Dodd, Mead & Company, 1971.

McKean, James N. Strings Magazine Guide to Common Sense Instru-ment Care. San Anselmo, CA: Strings Magazine, 1990.

Mendelson, Cheryl. Home Comforts: The Art & Science of KeepingHouse. New York: Scribner, 1999.

National Committee to Save America’s Cultural Collections. Car-ing For Your Collections. New York, NY: Harry N. Abrams, Inc.1992.

National Park Service. Conserve O Gram Series. Washington, D.C.:NPS, Curatorial Services Division, 1979—.

Sanwith, Hermione & Stainton, Sheila. The National Trust Manualof Housekeeping. Harmondsworth, England: Penguin, 1987.

Shelley, Marjorie. The Care & Handling of Art Objects. New York,N.Y.: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1987.

Williams, Marc A. Keeping It All Together: The Preservation & Careof Historic Furniture. Worthington, Ohio: Ohio Antique ReviewInc., 1990.


48

Headquarters1785 Massachusetts Avenue, N.W.Washington, D.C. 20036(202) 588-6296

Southern Field Office1785 Massachusetts Avenue, N.W.Washington, D.C. 20036(202) 588-6107(District of Columbia, Puerto Rico,Maryland, Virginia, Virgin Islands)

Midwest Office53 West Jackson Blvd., Suite 350Chicago, IL 60604-2103(312) 939-5547(Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Michigan,Minnesota, Missouri, Ohio,Wisconsin)

Northeast OfficeSeven Faneuil Hall Marketplace,4th FloorBoston, MA 02109-1649(617) 523-0885(Connecticut, Maine,Massachusetts, New Hampshire,New York, Rhode Island, Vermont)

Northeast Field Office6401 Germantown AvenuePhiladelphia, PA 19144(215) 848-8033(Delaware, New Jersey,Pennsylvania)

Offices of the National Trustfor Historic Preservation

Southern OfficeWilliam Aiken House456 King StreetCharleston, SC 29403-6247(843) 722-8552(Alabama, Florida, Georgia,Kentucky, Louisiana, Mississippi,North Carolina, South Carolina,Tennessee, West Virginia)

Mountains/Plains Office910 16th Street, Suite 1100Denver, CO 80202-2910(303) 623-1504(Colorado, Kansas, Montana,Nebraska, North Dakota, SouthDakota, Utah, Wyoming)

Southwest Office500 Main Street, Suite 1030Fort Worth, TX 76102-3943(817) 332-4398(Arkansas, New Mexico, Texas,Oklahoma)

Western OfficeOne Sutter Street, Suite 707San Francisco, CA 94104-4916(415) 956-0610(Alaska, Arizona, California,Hawaii, Idaho, Nevada, Oregon,Washington, Pacific islandterritories)

Preservation Books are publishedby the National Trust for HistoricPreservation. For a complete list oftitles call or write:Preservation Books,National Trust forHistoric Preservation1785 Massachusetts Avenue, N.W.Washington, D.C. 20036(202) 588-6286FAX (202) 588-6223,or visit our web site atwww.nthpbooks.org.

Copyright 2000 National Trust forHistoric Preservation

Richard MoePresidentNational Trust for HistoricPreservation

Peter BrinkVice PresidentPrograms, Services & Information

Katherine AdamsDirectorPreservation Services

Elizabeth Byrd WoodEditor

Donna LeahyBusiness Coordinator

National Trust Forum is amembership program forpreservationists—from boardmembers to students, fromarchitects to educators, frompreservation commissioners toplanners, from volunteers torestoration contractors. Forummembership provides you withthe knowledge, tools andresources to protect yourcommunit y. As a Forummember you receive a subscriptionto Preservation magazine, ForumJournal, and Forum News.Benefits also include discountson conferences and allpublications listed in thePreservation Books catalog aswell as participation in financial/insurance assistance programs,technical advice and access toForum Online, the online systemdesigned for the preservationcommunity. To join send $115 to:

National Trust ForumNational Trust forHistoric Preservation1785 Massachusetts Avenue, N.W.Washington, D.C. 20036(202) 588-6296

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Housekeeping for Historic Homes and House Museums

Documents

Transcript of Housekeeping for Historic Homes and House Museums