Homeless Tours of PragueTake a different view of the Golden City

published 18.03.2013 | comments (12) | log in to post comments

Written by: Lisette Allen

Been in town for a while? Think you’ve seen it all? Step outside your expat comfort zone and sign up for a

walking tour of the city with a difference…

Golden spires, cobbled streets, baroque cherubs, and of course the Castle. Prague is undeniably pretty –

and the best way to explore is on foot. But tag along with a typical walking tour and all you’ll do is tick off the

main sites.

However, there is an alternative way to see the so-called Golden City – through the eyes of those forced to

survive on its streets. Thanks to Pragulic, the award-winning brainchild of three postgraduate students at

Charles University, there are now walking tours led by the homeless offering a unique opportunity to explore

Prague’s grittier side.

Each of their five guides takes the curious on a different route incorporating former squats, sheltered

housing, and hidden corners of the city as well as the more obvious landmarks. Thanks to a team of

volunteer translators, the scheme is accessible to non-Czech speakers and is proving popular with tourists.

Half the 200 CZK ticket price goes directly to the tour leader – a helping hand, certainly, but not a handout.

On a chilly February evening, I find myself in Sherwood – not a forest, but the nickname of the notoriously

dodgy area outside Hlavní nádraží – waiting for our guide.

The first thing which strikes me about Jan is just how ordinary he looks. There’s nothing about his

appearance that says ‘tramp’ – the long hair simply suggests that he’s spent too long listening to rock music

and the roll ups that he likes the taste of unfiltered tobacco.

The tour is called From the Bottom to the Top, which does indeed describe the route he takes us from the

central train station to the vantage point on Letná where a gigantic statue of Stalin once stood overlooking

the city. The title also refers to the journey of Jan’s life from hitting rock bottom thanks to a gambling

addiction to a new beginning – or, as Oscar Wilde might have put it, from the gutter to the stars.

According to official estimates, over 4,000 people live on the city’s streets. Another disturbing statistic which

Jan shares is that there essentially two groups of homeless people: those who go without a place to live for

a month or two then manage to return to conventional society, and those who cannot – or choose not to –

and usually end up homeless for life.

“Change is essential,” Jan tells us. “I have many homeless friends who are unwilling or unable to make the

transition from living on the streets to ordinary life. Twice a week I meet someone I know who remains on the

streets. When I lose motivation I see him, gather all my strength and try to go on.”

Pragulic’s slogan is Nebojte se poznávat Prahu jinak – don’t be afraid to get to know Prague differently. Jan

takes us to the social centre Naděje (rather aptly the word for ‘hope’) where he once came to get soup and

clean clothes. Hidden under a flyover, it’s a spot that’s easy to overlook – unless you’re location scouting for

a gritty docudrama. It’s at this point in the tour that Jan shares some practical advice for those unsure how to

help those

they see sleeping rough.

“Give stravenky,” he advises. “With the meal vouchers you know they can only buy food, not booze.”

Later in the tour, we walk across Čechův most, a bridge I travel over on the way to work almost every day. I

never fail to look out of the window and take in the view across the river. However, I’ve never noticed the

boat Hermes at the foot of the steps leading up to Letná which serves as a hostel for the homeless. Although

the doors don’t open until 18:30, the queue for one of the 250 beds begins hours earlier. Those who don’t

manage to secure a bed or who can’t find the 20 CZK fee sleep under the bridge.

Katarina Chalupková, Ondřej Klügl, and Tereza Jurečková - students behind PragulicKatarina Chalupková,

Ondřej Klügl, and Tereza Jurečková - students behind Pragulic

Despite the cold, the dozen or so of us who’ve gathered on a Wednesday evening to hear Jan’s story listen

with real concentration and interest. Tonight, the group is mostly Czechs in their twenties: friends and

acquaintances who found out about the initiative through Facebook. The tour is also accessible to foreign

tourists thanks to a team of volunteer translators.

Once we’ve successfully climbed up the steps which lead up to the metronome on Letná, I get chatting to

some of the other participants. One of the most enthusiastic participants, Lukáš Policar, believes that the

tour has the power to challenge the stereotypes which surround the most disadvantaged in society:

“It’s a great project – very inspiring. I think it should be compulsory for every school age child in the Czech

Republic.”

I asked Tereza Jurečková, one of the co-organisers, what she thought expats could gain from attending the

tour.

“Foreigners in Prague often stay separated from local life. They live in Vinohrady and meet other expats, but

I believe that lot of them would like to explore local life as well,” Tereza observes. “Now they have a chance

to discover the city with a real expert. They will not only see interesting and unknown places but they will

better understand the local culture and way of life.

“We are also trying to bring different people together. So you never know whether you end up in the pub at

the end of the tour chatting with others.”

Those interested in booking a homeless tour with an English speaking translator should contact the

organisers via their website for more details.

Photos: Pragulic

Adultery, Czech StyleRates of infidelity and attitudes to extramarital relationships

published 17.04.2013 | comments (1) | log in to post comments

Written by: Ryan Scott

Is the Czech Republic a nation of cheats? It seems like a very strong generalization, but it is one which I’ve

heard offered by a number of foreigners living here. Seemingly, by Anglo-American standards, Czech people

are more accepting of extramarital affairs. But casual observations are not hard evidence.

Affairs of State

Judging by popular reactions to the infidelity or supposed infidelity of public figures, the Czech electorate

doesn’t seem too bothered by the sex lives of politicians. I suppose it could be argued that there are other

things for the people to worry about.

Even if that is the case, the affairs of Topolánek and Paroubek haven’t significantly discredited them in the

eyes of the public or the media. The former president Václav Klaus was photographed leaving a hotel with a

young woman, and while the photos were certainly fodder for the tabloids, it didn’t seem to damage his

approval rating. Apart from allegedly accepting bribes, David Rath lived openly with his wife and lover.

The late Václav Havel was also known to have had affairs, and his first wife Olga also had an extramarital

relationship. These facts have done little to tarnish their popular image. Does that tolerance for the affairs of

public figures extend to people’s personal lives?

Román pro ženy (2004)

The Broad Picture

Dr. Petr Weiss is one of the Czech Republic’s leading sexologists. Trained as a clinical psychologist, he now

works in the Sexology Institute at the General Faculty Hospital in Prague 2.

Since 1993, a survey has been conducted into the sexual behavior and opinions of Czech men and women

every five years. The most recent one was from 2008, and it surveyed 2000 men and women. Infidelity was

one of the topics covered, and the results tend to confirm the overall picture of tolerance regarding infidelity.

Of the women surveyed:

• 28% were single;

• 48% were married and hadn’t committed adultery and,

• 24% were married and had admitted to being unfaithful.

For the Czech men from the sample:

• 34% were single;

• 30% were married and hadn’t committed adultery and,

• 33% were married and admitted to cheating.

If we disregard the single people, it means that about half the married men and a third of the married women

admitted to some form of infidelity.

The type of infidelity men and women engage in is slightly different. The men surveyed showed more of a

tendency to have casual affairs – 62% of those who admitted to being unfaithful admitted this. For women it

was 44%. Women showed a higher tendency to have affairs with acquaintances – 38% admitted this was

the case, while among men the rate was 15%. When it came to engaging both in casual liaisons and with

acquaintances, the numbers were quite similar: 18% of women and 25% of men.

Nestyda (2008)

Tolerance

“In all areas to do with sex, Czechs are very tolerant,” Dr. Weiss said. This evaluation is further reflected in

national opinions about infidelity. From the same group surveyed about rates of infidelity, the following

opinions were founds.

Women

• 38% consider it morally unacceptable;

• 41% don’t condemn but don’t pursue extramarital relationships and,

• 21% consider it natural.

Men

• 21% consider it morally unacceptable;

• 38% don’t condemn but don’t pursue extramarital relationships and,

• 41% think it’s natural.

By way of explanation, Dr Weiss said, “Liberalism and tolerance in the area of sexual issues for the Czech

population is explained, above all, by the fact that Czechs as a nation are very atheistic.”

Religion is identified by sexologists as one of the main restrictive factors in attitudes to sex. With a large

majority not subscribing to any faith, it stands to reason that attitudes toward sex, including infidelity, are less

conservative.

That tolerance can even extend to advice for women who are seeing married men. The web-magazine

Femina.cz ranan article (in Czech) in 2010 offering some quite cool-headed advice to a woman who is in

such a relationship.

The article opens by saying, “The most sensible rule is: don’t take a man with a ring,” but then goes on to

say the readers have to admit to the reality: “good sense and love don’t go together.”

The editor of the website, Petra Martišková, explained that the article was published because of experiences

of readers, editors and friends.

“We try to publish articles, which our readers have experience with. In some way it concerns them, and they

don’t have anyone to open up to,” Martišková said.

At the time of publication, the article was popular, though it might be too much to see it as representative.

The article did appear on the first page of a search of “mimomanželský vztah” (extramarital relations).

Similar topics tend to appear with less candor in mainstream English language magazines.

Kráska v nesnázích (2006)

Influence of the Past

Reading the works of Milan Kundera, Ivan Klíma, and Josef Škvorecký can give the impression that infidelity

was a part of the former regime. The film Loves of a Blonde by Miloš Forman and the scene from the

popular Ecce home Homolka suggest a more permissive attitude toward affairs. However, the broader

picture is hard to come by.

“We don’t have a comparison of what happened during communism because no surveys were done about

sexual behavior.”

While no studies of the infidelity in the era exist, Weiss offered a speculative answer. The widespread

ownership of cottages, combined with drinking, and the fact the state lets people get on with their lives in a

relatively free way, would allow for extramarital affairs.

“It’s possible, as part of this flight from reality, that sex including non-marital sex served as a [way of letting

off steam], who weren’t able to [do so] in other areas,” he said. The comment certainly puts the cottage

tradition in a new light.

Enough’s enough

Tolerance regarding infidelity doesn’t necessarily equate to open acceptance, especially where one’s spouse

is concerned. While Czech people may not judge their political leaders on their indiscretions and the majority

doesn’t regard infidelity as immoral, it is still a cause of divorce.

According to 2012 figures (in Czech), 28,100 marriages ended in the Czech Republic during the year.

Infidelity was the most often concrete reason for 1,072 men and 697 women. However, “irreconcilable

differences” represented 89% of cases.

“I would advise discretion with infidelity…even in the case of [a] so-called open marriage, because the one

who tells his/her partner that they have been unfaithful, so they can have a good feeling of being honest…

shifts the burden of doubts and uncertainties [onto his partner]. No infidelity can benefit a marriage,” Dr.

Weiss said.

Global Comparisons

I started by mentioning the article was motivated by a perception that infidelity was more tolerated in the

Czech Republic. This doesn’t mean the rates are so low in the English speaking world.

An article from The New York Times shows that infidelity rates in the US are growing. While those surveyed

show rates about half that of the Czech population, it isn’t exactly marginal behavior. Or maybe Czechs are

just more honest.

Museum of Medieval Torture InstrumentsA gruesome collection of pain-inducing paraphernalia

published 09.04.2013 | comments (1) | log in to post comments

Written by: Lisette Allen

The Break Knee, Iron Maiden and the Catalan Garotte: is this gruesome collection of pain-inducing

paraphernalia educational, entertaining or just a tourist rip-off?

Tucked away in the shopping arcade next to Charles Bridge, The Museum of Medieval Torture Instruments

tries to lure in passing tourists by offering the chance to peer at its collection of – yep, you guessed it –

instruments of medieval torture.

If you’re curious about the gruesome and bizarre ways that those in power once extracted information from

alleged wrongdoers, this is the right place to come. The museum’s three floors are packed with all kinds of

macabre paraphernalia. Just in case the exact workings of any object wasn’t obvious enough merely from

staring at it, detailed explanations accompany each exhibit; all the info is available in eight languages so no-

one misses out on the fun.

There’s the Virgin of Nuremberg – better known as the Iron Maiden – a sort of sarcophagus lined with

strategically placed spikes that would pierce the poor person locked inside while avoiding their vital organs.

The result? A long, excruciatingly painful death.

That infamous aid to prising out declarations of guilt – the Rack – is also on display. In case you weren’t

paying attention in history class, the Rack is a large table on which the supposed malefactor was made to lie

until they were stretched apart. Some ended up ten inches taller. If that wasn’t enough to make you spill your

guts (no pun intended), the torturer applied a red hot poker to force you to cooperate.

Some objects need little explanation. The Break Knee breaks knees. The Interrogation Seat is a chair

covered in spikes in which the victim was forced to sit in naked until they fessed up or expired. No need to

read the blurb to figure out how that could inflict agonizing pain. The same goes for the Staircase of

Stretching, the Rack’s equally deadly cousin.

Other practices have innocent names which belie their grisly purpose. The Spanish Tickle Torture sounds

like it might be rather fun – until you realize that it actually involves having your flesh reduced to tatters by a

giant fork. Another disturbing form of dispatching lawbreakers, the Catalan Garrotte, is also a brainchild of

the Spaniards. The lucky individual sits in a specially designed chair with their hands behind their back while

the executioner screws an iron wedge into their skull. Nice.

Not all forms of torture were designed to exsanguinate. Anyone’s who ever craved a bit of peace and quiet

will sympathize with the inventor of the Noisemaker’s Fife. A metal collar with a special vice attached into

which the fingers of the accused were locked, this device was used to punish ‘bad’ musicians whose poor

quality piping had offended the ears of a noble. Other exhibits designed to subject the victim to public scorn

rather than physical pain. The striking iron masks in the shapes of monsters or pigs were worn by women

accused of slander or witchcraft: the Germanic equivalent of the Scold’s Bridle used in medieval England to

curb the tongues of garrulous shrews.

While none of these practices seem particularly appealing, the worst form of death wasn’t being barbecued

on the Gridirion or even impalement on a giant pole, but being turned upside down and then sawn in half.

According to the explanatory material, this was the nastiest way to meet your end. I guess we’ll just have to

take their word for it.

After I’ve spent an hour taking in all the bloodcurdling goriness, I’m left feeling positively queasy. I suppose

that’s proof the exhibits worked their macabre magic on me. Is my upset tummy a thumbs up for the

Museum of Medieval Torture then? That depends on whether you believe you should leave educated or

merely entertained.

Don’t get me wrong – as attractions targeting tourists go, this one is hardly the trashiest. However, don’t

come here expecting to see anything which challenges the popular stereotype of the Middle Ages as

barbaric and backward. Of course, I’m glad that my chances of being broken into bits on a giant wheel are

far slimmer these days. However, before we all get too smug about how far modern man has progressed,

let’s not forget that we still practice forms of torture pioneered by medievals – water boarding anyone?

Museum of Medieval Torture Instruments

Křižovnické náměstí 194/1, Prague 1

Open daily 10:00 – 20:00

(no website)

Wine Tourism in the Czech RepublicThere's more than Mikulov when it comes to Moravian wine trips

published 11.09.2012 | comments (0) | log in to post comments

Written by: Lisette Allen

Rightly revered for its beer, the Czech Republic’s status as a producer of top class wines is often

overlooked.

Autumn is the ideal time of year to explore the vineyards and wine cellars of Southern Moravia, the country’s

primary viticulture region. Time your trip to coincide with the grape harvest, and you can join the locals as

they sample the first bouquet in vast quantities in their wine caves.

Wind your way through the countryside on two wheels or four and savour the unique flavour of Czech wine –

but do remember that the country’s drunk driving laws are some of the strictest in Europe!

Where to go

The vast majority of Czech wines are produced in Moravia along the Austrian border: 96% of the Czech

Republic’s registered vineyards are located there. Bohemian wine does exist too, though: the areas

surrounding Mělník, Litoměřice, and even Most produce modest amounts.

The most obvious destination for the would-be Moravian wine tourist has to be Mikulov. The town is picture

postcard perfect enough to merit a visit in its own right but also rather conveniently happens to be slap bang

in the middle of the country’s main wine producing region. Having hiked up the hill to the fairytale chateau

which dominates the skyline, and wandered around the winding streets below, you can reward yourself by

sampling the local víno.

Vinné sklepy, aka wine cellars, are where the tasting action is at. There’s certainly no shortage of these, but

you’ll need to book if you want to do a degustation where you sample a range of varieties – and let’s face it,

who wouldn’t? Many wine cellars require a minimum of ten people in a group to make a reservation. Volařík

Winery is one place which will arrange tastings for smaller groups.

Znojmo, the self-styled pearl of Moravia, is famous amongst Czechs for its gherkins: there’s even a festival

in honour of the humble pickled cucumber. They also produce some outstanding wines. Head to Nový

Šaldorf, a hamlet on the outskirts of town, where you’ll find dozens of local vintners waiting to welcome you

to their sklípky. The vibe here is laidback: during our recent visit on a Saturday afternoon we sat outside with

a bottle of Neuburské, a medium dry white which set us back a very reasonable 120 CZK, and snacked on a

plate of home cured ham, bread, and of course, those gherkins.

The Velké Pavlovice wine region describes itself as the beating heart of Moravian red. Follow in the

footsteps of the Knights Templar and take a trip to the underground wine cellars beneath the fortress in

Čejkovice, which date from the 13th century. Rather unusually, they even produce sparkling wines and also

have an organic range.

Alternatively, head for Slovácko, the most easterly Moravian wine producing area, where Riesling, Pinot

Blanc, and Pinot Gris grape varieties all excel. In Uherské Hradiště, check out the Mařatice area where most

of the wine cellars are to be found, including some dating back to the eighteenth century.

One way to explore the region – and keep up your stamina levels required for all the drinking you’ll be doing

– is to cycle. The main Moravian wine trail meanders from Znojmo to Uherské Hradiště, but of course you’re

under no obligation to cover it all: check out some of the suggested routes at Cycling Southern Moravia or

The Friends of Czech Greenways websites.

The most popular varieties

The vast majority of Czech wine is white: apparently the higher lime content in the soil and the warm climate

lend themselves better to cultivating a Pinot Gris than a Beaujolais. The most popular varieties include

Grüner Veltliner (Veltlínské zelené), Rhine Riesling (Ryzlink rýnský), Pinot Blanc (Rulandské bílé), and

Müller Thurgau.

There are decent reds too: try Pinot Noir (Rulandské modré) if it’s something velvety and full-bodied you’re

after, Lemberger (Frankovka) if you want a tipple with a fruity bouquet of overripe cherries, or for something

lighter, road test a Portugiser Blauer (Modrý Portugal).

There’s also burčák, or partially fermented young wine, a slightly sweet alcoholic beverage made from must

– which sounds like what it is – a mush of grapes and their juices. Nicknamed mléko starců (old man’s milk),

it comes in both red and white just like its fully fermented big brother. Watch out: it tastes like a soft drink but

the 5 – 8% alcohol content can sneak up on you.

Vinobraní – the wine harvest festivals

Every year, the successful harvesting of another grape crop provides the perfect excuse for collective

celebration. During the vinobraní, or wine harvest festival, towns and villages across Southern Moravia burst

into life with street performances of all kinds and, of course, the sampling of the latest crop in copious

amounts. This year’s Pálavské vinobraní in Mikulov took place from 7th – 9th September. Znojmo welcomes

visitors for its historical vintage festival, including a medieval style torch lit procession through the town,

fireworks and a brass band, next weekend: 14th – 15th September.

A crash course in Czech for wine lovers

suché - dry

polosuché – semi-dry

polosladké – semi-sweet

sladké - sweet

Víno bez původu – table wine. The lowest category of wine and cannot bear a vintage, grape variety or any

indication of its geographical origin.

Zemské víno – country wine. This is still table wine, but it’s one step up from the truly nasty stuff. It can bear

the name of the wine region, vintage and grape variety from which it was produced.

Jakostní víno s přívlastkem – Quality wine with special attributes. This is what it reassuringly states on the

bottles I brought home from my recent trip to Moravia. The wine can only be produced from a maximum of

three different varieties of grapes and the quality must be assured by the State Agricultural & Food

Inspectorate SZPI. Within this category, there are also:

Ledové víno – Ice wine. A super sweet (and expensive) dessert wine produced from grapes frozen on the

vine.

Slámové víno – Straw wine/raisin wine. Wine made from grapes that have been dried to concentrate their

juices. Straw wines are typically very sweet and of the finest quality; the fictional serial killer Hannibal Lector

supposedly sipped a glass while dining on the liver of one of his victims! (Note: the film version turned this

into a Chianti.)

Do say:

Nejsem Pražák, jsem cizinec a tady na Moravě se mi strašně líbí.

I’m not from Prague, I’m a foreigner, and I really love it here in Moravia.

Don’t say:

Jsem tady,abych pil pivo.

I’m only here for the beer.

Do you have any tips for making the most of Moravian wine country you’d like to share? Know of any great

vinné sklepy or wine harvest festivals we’ve missed? Let us know in the comments section!