Himalaya Adventure - September 2008 by Jayant Doshi

A Trek with Charitable Objwective. (The opinions expressed are mine, though many comments were given by other participants.)

At the end of a trek in Nepal, there is a huge bill board which says “Never Say Good Bye to Himalayas.” This is so true. My trek to Beas Khund would be my sixth foray into the lovely Himalayas, and it shows how one gets attracted to this lovely creation of nature. The chief aim of the trek was to raise funds for Sankara Eye Foundation Europe (SEFE) which aims to build a modern eye hospital in every state of India. The funds to be raised under this trek would help to build

a hospital in Punjab. SEFE is a well established charity in India, and already runs several eye hospitals. Recently Sankara won an award from Indian Government. The award the “FICCI Healthcare Excellence Award in the

category of Best Community Driven Healthcare Program for 2009” was won by Sankara with tough competition from big name hospitals in India also in contention.

The trek was being planned since the beginning of 2009. Twenty eight participants

enrolled for this trek, and it was decided not to take any more. There were eleven ladies. The age group was quite diverse with seven between 19 and 25, 10 in their 40’s and 9 in their 50’s, while one was 67 and myself making twenty eight in the group. The original target was Beas Khund, but later the more ambitious target of summiting Sethidhar Peak was added to the schedule. Beas Khund is situated in the northern state of Himachal Pradesh, south of Kashmir. The state is at the foot hills of Himalaya range, and the beauty of the state is enhanced by mountains, valleys and hills, greenery and rocky mountains, streams rushing down to the plains, and falls trickling down the mountain surfaces, higher mountain peaks with snow covering, and barren hills with colourful surfaces. The beauty of the area is amazing, and one has to experience it to appreciate it.

While I arrived a few days earlier in Delhi, the whole group arrived on 29th August,

and we met at a hotel before overnight journey to Manali. The bus journey to Manali was long and tiring especially for those who had already flown overnight from London. We made a stop for our dinner.

A month or so before, we came in contact with some one associated with a school in

Manali. He suggested that we can take some useful things - things which we normally would throw away in this country - for these poor children. We appealed and soon we collected lot of old shoes and clothes, school books, toys and games, musical instruments, pens, sweets etc. We also arranged to buy note books and erasers from Delhi. In total we took forty two large cartons of these items and gave them to the children of the school. On reaching Manali, we dropped all these cartons at the school before proceeding to our hotel. We were given brief details of the plans for the coming days and had the afternoon to ourselves. Some of us took advantage and visited the natural hot water springs, and later had massage.

The trek was arranged by a newly

formed company called National Adventure

and Leadership School (NALS) with the aim of providing leadership and survival skill training through outdoor and adventure experience. It has big plans to establish such schools in various parts of India, and to provide this training to schools, colleges and corporate sector. Unlike other tour operators who specialised as trekking experts, NALS was experimenting with the concept of trekking, and the difference this made could be felt during the trip. NALS was catering for its first large overseas group whose main aim was trekking, though over the next few days we got an

inkling of its main training agenda. I am not sure if the aim was to give us a good trekking experience or was it to promote the image of the company.

From next day, our meals were organised at its camp site on the fringe of Manali

while we were to use the hotel to sleep at night. We moved to the camp site early next morning. The camp site was on the shores of a river, and we had to cross a wobbly bridge to reach the same. Due to heavy rains, the river waters were flowing with full force. Due to heavy rains, the morning walk was postponed and we were taken to a warehouse to be furnished with all the equipment requirements. First we were given a talk on safety and other issues during the trek. Later we were given all the equipment that would be required during the trek, including walking on ice. While most of us had brought most of the equipment, it was nice to see that every item we needed for the trek was being provided. Perhaps, the cost of hiring these was already incorporated in the charges for the trek.

After lunch, we were taken on a small trial trek to the hill top. We walked up the

slope in heavy rain. At the top of the hill, we had a chance to visit one of the local homes, and the host even offered us tea. By the time we came back to the camp site, the rain intensity increased. We later played some games that gave us an insight into the leadership training undertaken by NALS. Our hotels were changed as the hotel we spent the night was not to standard. We moved hotel and started packing for the trek. We were to keep our extra luggage in the hotel.

Next day we were divided into two groups. While one group did long walk, the other

group did river crossing. The long walk was over difficult terrain and was meant as preparation for our forthcoming trek. River crossing was fun. Ropes were tied to tree trunks on both side of the river, and each participant was tied well with harness and made to slide along the other ropes. Later I noticed that I had some pain in my shoulder muscles, but I applied some gel and that gave me relief. With the presence of one doctor, and a few pharmacists, medical advice with medicines popping out was to be expected. It is so surprising that while we are so fussy about what we eat or do not eat, we do not hesitate to put these medicines into our bodies without second thought. Few of the participants started taking medicines for altitude sickness, even though few suffered from any effects of the same. At night we had a birthday celebration for my room and tent partner.

Our trek began on Wednesday,

2nd September. We woke up early and were at the camp site for our breakfast by 6.40. We got into our taxis which took us to the point where we started our trek at around 9.00. At first we walked along the road, and every one felt happy thinking it will be like this all the way. But soon we were walking on

a very narrow ledge on top of a ridge. We stopped for lunch on a river stream, where some of us dipped our legs in fast flowing water. At lunch time we had some showers, but rain intensified after lunch. We had to cross a furious looking river. The crossing was on two tree trunks, and the fast flowing water underneath was frightening. We reached the camp site at Solang valley at 4.00. The camp site was beautiful with lots of greenery, surrounded by mountain peaks, and behind those were more peaks with snow.

Later we played a game based on the techniques of leadership training. After dinner we were taken for a walk in the moon light. We were encouraged to switch off our lights, and to get used to using the moon light to find our way. Due to heavy rains, walking uphill in muddy conditions was difficult. But I found coming down even more difficult, with the fear of slipping uppermost in the mind. During my first long trek to Everest Base camp nothing happened, but after my return, I slipped on my very first golf round and I broke my wrist. The fear that created has not left me since and I am extra careful when descending when trekking. I slipped a few times in the slimy mud, and had to take help of a guide to steer through slimy, slippery surface in the dark.

This was a large group for trekking by any standard. My other treks have had

normally between two and four people. On Kilimanjaro trek we had 21 people. While two persons shared tents like any where else, this trek lacked the facility to meet and enjoy together in the evening. A large tent was provided for our dinner but we had no sitting facility, and the tent was not large enough to accommodate all the participants. For me there was an additional problem. Because of my height, I could not stand in the tent in most parts without keeping my head bent – not a very comfortable position. While others chatted and laughed, I had to come out of the tent. As standing outside was not very comfortable or conducive in wet or cold weather, my only choice was to go to my tent. So on most days I missed out on the briefing after dinner. I would have expected that for such a large group, the organisers would have at least provided two tents.

That night it rained incessantly –

heavy most of the times, but taking a breather in between. Thunderstorms kept us awake. Water seeped through in some tents. Next day the program was to do an acclimatisation walk to Patalsu peak (4350 m). Because of heavy rains our walk was cancelled. Some went for a walk while I spent time in the tent talking with my tent partner. After lunch, I joined others in a walk to the Solang village. It rained all the way, and we were drenched, wet and cold by the time we came back. The first snow of the season had fallen previous night, and most of the higher peaks were covered in snow. Rain is not too pleasing during a trek, especially when you have limited clothes supply, and there is no chance of drying or taking

a bath. In all my treks in the past, I rarely faced any rain, and I thought our trek might be spoilt because of the rain.

On Friday we moved to Bakarthach

(3270 m) camp site. In the morning the rain had stopped, though rain drops kept falling and possible downpour appeared in the horizon. The mules which were supposed to carry our equipment were delayed, and we kept taking too many breaks. The idea was not to reach camp site quickly as we will have to wait for our tents and equipment. It

was 5.00 by the time we reached the camp site. Some tents had been put up, and six of us sat in one tent waiting for our equipment to arrive. It was 8.00 by the time rest of the stuff came. Our dinner was delayed, and it was past 10.00 when we went to sleep.

With five trekking experiences behind me, I felt that this trek lacked the very essence

of a good trek. Trekking should not normally allow for an escape hatch. On this trek, for most days, a person could easily decide to skip the day’s program and take it easy. On all the treks I have done, there is never a choice not to do trekking on any day. If one is not able to do walking, then the choice is to go back or wait until rest of the group finishes and comes back – and this would be allowed only in emergency. Normal trekking would start with four to five hours of walking, and then it would get longer and longer ending in may be eight hours or more of walking. It would allow for breaks, and time to appreciate nature around us. Each day had a target, and we had to make to our next camp site no matter what. This trip seemed to concentrate more on training. The trek also seemed to lack inter mingling, and enjoying at night in a group. This trek totally lacked any facility to sit and relax. The only choice was to either stand or lie down in the tent. Many of this group were first time trekkers, and I have a feeling that this trip did not give a true taste of trekking for any one to fall in love with it.

The guides, instructors and other staff were very jolly, helpful and mixed with every

one. I have always found this great thing every time I have been out trekking in the Himalayas. The hospitality, the helping nature and the jovial nature of these people is something they have got in their culture. Many of the participants, first time ever in this part of the world, were very taken back by these qualities, but I know that people in the Himalayas are all like these. My memories of the past treks have always been wonderful, and some of the guides still keep in touch with me. On my other trips, in the evening the trekkers, the guides, and cooks and porters would sit together and enjoy themselves and give all an entertaining evening with singing and laughing.

Saturday was to be ice walking

training and experiencing, and was described as the most exciting day of the trek. We could see the ice from our camp site. The guide gave an estimate of the time by which we should be near the ice and that we will have plenty of time to practice ice walking. Of course there was no mention that we should walk fast. As at other times, his estimate was wrong and we all reached much later then anticipated. We had to carry all the ice walking gear with us which included crampons, ice boots, and ice axe. The walk to the ice walking was steep and difficult, and most of the participants struggled. At no point was there even a

mention that next day we would be doing the same walk – and that it would be a race to beat the clock. After the ridge we had to struggle over sea of rocks and boulders – covering a vast area. Three participants quit, while most others were knackered. When we did reach our destination, it was much latter then anticipated by the guide .The ice walking practice was rushed and soon we saw winds and snow flakes and we were advised to move back to our camp site before the weather deteriorated. So the ice walking exercise, supposed to be the most

exciting experience, turned out to be a flop, and most participants hardly got a few minutes to try it out. The walk back to the camp site was as difficult and most struggled and found this as the most difficult day of the trek.

We had early dinner. Of all the participants in this group, I was in a way the only outsider. Others were either related or knew each other for long period of time. I knew some of them from my last trek to Kilimanjaro, but still the acquaintance was limited. Of course, I must admit that the respect and treatment I was given was overwhelming. However, when the talks meandered to the past, which was natural, then I would have to listen only. I was one of the first to finish dinner, and as it was difficult for me to stand in the tent, I came out of the tent where the cold winds made it difficult to stay for long. So I decided to retire early to my tent.

Many would think that I retired early every day because I was tired. But really

speaking I had no problems at all during this trek. Except a muscle pain in my shoulder and calf pains in my sleep at night, and scare of diahorrea on the first day, I found no tiredness, pains or any other ailments all these days. I was scared of knee pain, but I had no problem with my knees either. I found this trek haphazard and not at all challenging. In my other treks, we kept moving further and further to a target, and each day we walked more and more, at times up to eight or ten hours. On this trek I found the “stop – go” sort of trekking allowing one to skip as and when they felt like. Over the week we stayed at two campsites only. There was no packing and unpacking every morning and evening, there was no excitement of a new camp site every day. And the camp site did not offer any where to meet, sit or just mix and talk with others except in the dining tent where one had to stand in crowded space.

I missed the briefing the previous

night. My tent partner briefly gave me the gist of the announcements. For the whole week we were advised, cajoled and told again and again not to rush, not to walk fast and to put safety first. Only yesterday we did the ridge which we were to do again today. But the difference was that yesterday there was no mention of rushing or walking fast – but today a time limit had been set. Whoever did not make it by 11.00 would not be allowed to go further. We could have been told yesterday to walk faster as next day we will have to make it within a specified time. To me, this was wrong. Why suddenly this restriction and a race for time? All the week I had kept the pace and led the group. The guides were impressed by my stamina and ability to walk at speed for considerable period of time. I was quite often told to slow down and walk slowly. Why this sudden change in thinking? Why was a time limit set which the guides knew from experience that most of the participants will not be able to complete? Only

yesterday we did the walk and the guides knew that we were delayed because most participants took much longer then they anticipated. Then why was this time limit set? Was it to restrict numbers who actually made to base came one? All the talk of all twenty eight summiting seemed to have evaporated in thin air.

We started at 8.30. With my speed of

walking I was in the front group but with the steep climb in front I started struggling with my breathing. This has always been my problem and I have been told by many,

advised by many, that this was due to the way I breathed. But all my attempts to improve my breathing methods failed to help. In spite of this handicap, I never had problem going to the top of Gokyo Ri and Kala Patthar at 18500 feet, nor the steep mountains we had to cross on Makalu trek, nor in reaching top of Mt Kilimanjaro at 19500 feet. But this time something changed, my mind started thinking and this weakened my determination and resolve. While walking I learnt that some one with thalessemia did not come because she found breathing difficult while ascending. I learnt that thalessimia reduces haemoglobin in the blood, and this reduces the capacity of the blood to absorb enough oxygen. After fifty years I at last found out why I always was huffing and puffing when ascending when others did not. This knowledge at this juncture started train of thoughts and that in turn slowed me down. I kept stopping more and more for taking breath compared to normal. My mind got diverted, and I lost my aim of keeping up with others.

Surprisingly, the guides today kept quiet and did not even once goaded me to move

faster, or encouraged me that I can do it. I could have done it. Had I known the previous night of this time limit, I would have prepared myself mentally for it or perhaps decided to start earlier. After giving hope to all for a week that all twenty eight will be going to the top of Sethidhar, it was cruel to impose this condition at the very last moment. After advising every day to walk slowly, it was cruel to tell them on the last day to walk fast or forget about Sethidhar. I did not make it. I accepted it but I felt disappointed. I could have made it, and that would have been a matter of pride for me, and perhaps for the group, but it was not to be. We were denied a fair chance – perhaps we were misled. We were not allowed to be prepared for this time race.

Three had decided not even to try, eighteen made the time but three turned back for

various reasons, and fifteen made to the base camp one. Rest of us walked to the Beas Khund. Beas or Vyas is named after Vyas Muni who wrote the great epic Mahabharata. The lake is small, perhaps no bigger then a foot ball pitch, but is reputed to be so deep that scientists have not yet been able to find out the exact depth. It also is supposed to spread out under the mountains. Some prayed at the lake and collected the holy water. We had our lunch and then started the walk back. The discussions on the way back was about their failure to go up to the base camp one. Some blamed the guides for bad planning, some regretted their decision not to go on and some were angry at this last minute decision. Questions were raised as to why the camp site could not have been set upt at Beas Khund, thereby allowing every one to go to Bas Camp One.

From our camp site we could see the

other group camped on the snow at base camp one. We got the news that the porters had abandoned all the stuff at the snow line

claiming that they were not prepared for snow nor were they informed that they will be going that high up. We were told at the beginning of the trek that there would be as many as ninety five porters, guides, cooks etc on this trip. I could not see even half that number over the whole trip. Instructors made at least four runs to bring the luggage to the camp site. Dinner and early to bed plans were delayed. The instructors were too tired to tie the ropes for the early morning climb. Instructions were given

from our camp that the leader should take the decision in the morning as to whether to try Sethidhar climb on Tuesday morning or if the group should come down on Monday. At that point the leader said that no attempt will be made next morning.

Without their ruck sacks, sleeping bags and extra clothes, the group at base camp

one shivered in cold, huddled together in some tents and tried to keep warm. Sleeping on snow was their first time ever experience, and without proper sleeping bags, most found it cold and uncomfortable. But in the morning the news came that the leader had decided to select three best persons based on his observation, and attempt the climb on Sethidhar. However, soon after we learnt that only one, Shashikant Patel, was selected for the climb together with two instructors. Shashikant, of course, was the fittest of the lot, and I had already predicted that if any one could make it then it would be him. But others, especially the youngsters, were disappointed. The excuse given was that some instructors had to stay behind to look after the rest. But the rest could have stayed at base camp one while all six instructors could have taken three participants on the climb.

We walked around the camp site for two and half hours. After lunch few of us went to

a spring for a bath. Only three of us dared to dip completely in freezing cold water. Others just dipped their feet and enjoyed the experience. Around 5.00 p.m. the fourteen came back from base camp one. They were welcomed with hugs, hot tea and snacks. Each one had tales to tell, and groups huddled around to hear of their experiences. Most did not regret that they did not go any further, but some showed their disappointment and disgust at the way the decisions were made.

At around 6.30 p.m. Shashikant appeared – fit and strong as always, smiling and

showing no signs of tiredness, proud of his achievement with a clear cut statement that he would never try it again. Talks centred on plans for next year, and some discussion about what should have been done, what went wrong and what could have been avoided. But by dinner time the anger and frustration had simmered down. It was decided that instead of spending another night in tents in Solang valley, we will all move to Manali directly and sleep in comfort of our hotel beds.

On the morning of 8th September, our final day of the trek, all the equipment used for ice walking and getting to Sethidhar were laid out and lots of photos were taken. We started at 8.30, and every one seemed in a hurry to get back to the hotel. Going down hill was easier and faster. Fewer breaks were taken, and we were in our hotel by 4.00 p.m.

On 9th September, our last day in

Manali, it was planned to go to NALS

campsite from the morning but due to heavy rains and very cold weather, it was postponed to 10.00 a.m. At the camp site there was a review of our trek, and questions were raised by participants. For a week we were advised to walk slowly and steadily, keeping safety in mind, and then suddenly on the last day we were told to complete the walk in limited time? Why was one person taken to summit Sethidhar when all along we were told that all 28 will summit the peak? We were promised all along that two attempts will be made to summit the

peak, but the second attempt was not even contemplated. Doubts were raised that there were not enough instructors or equipment to take even the fifteen who made to the base camp one. While the claim was made that the leader felt that he could not take the risk of a second attempt on Tuesday because of weather conditions, this did not make sense. On Monday the weather was perfect – sunny, no clouds, or wind or rain. How much better weather is required to make a second attempt? It defies logic. On Monday and again on Tuesday, the weather conditions were most perfect, and if these conditions were considered as not conducive to take the risk of a second attempt, then what weather conditions would be required to decide on a second attempt?

At every juncture the point was made that they had to consider safety of each and

every participant. But the question is - was this uppermost in their minds? Did they really put safety as top priority? Most of the group was between 45 and 70, many suffering from diabetes and hyper tension. While we had eight instructors, seven went to base camp leaving only one to look after rest of the group. What would have happened if any one in this slow group had twisted their ankle, or broken their leg, or hurt their knee jumping from boulder to boulder? Who would have been there to take care of that person? One person, who did make the time, went almost half way to base camp one, had problems and no one was there to take care of him. Because he walked fast, he sweated a lot and lost salts resulting in him getting severe and serious cramps. It was lucky that he struggled but managed to come down to Beas Khund. The “race” to base camp one could have been costly for some – and it could have been avoided. With age profile of the group, a professional trekking operator would have not taken this risk – he would have planned it better.

The answers given were not satisfactory. Decisions and actions were justified but the

answers did not seem plausible. I mulled over the questions and answers, and suddenly I felt that I had been through very similar situation in the past. I could almost feel that I had heard similar excuses, similar explanations, similar situation where at first trekkers are assured that every one will, and can make it and then suddenly when the time comes, the tune changes and all the excuses and reasons are given why it cannot be done. Twice before I went through this, and each time I refused to accept that – and both times I completed the mission without any problems. Of course, both times attempt to stop us failed, and after our successful completion, the tune was changed and we were congratulated.

After lunch, some of us went to the school for which we had brought forty two cartons of items from London. We were given a traditional welcome, and after tea and snacks, we

distributed note books and erasers to all the children. After that we were entertained by the children who presented an hour of classical dances which enthralled each one of us. A stage had been erected for the program in the grounds, but it had to be moved inside due to heavy rains. Each one of our party was presented with a traditional hat and a shawl. Later we visited the new school being constructed just outside the town in beautiful surroundings.

That evening we had

planned a farewell musical party. The Delhi agent who had been taking care of our travelling and hotel needs, had promised musicians but when the party started no one was present. However, the guides and instructors entertained us all by some wonderful singing. Farewells were said and greetings were exchanged. Next morning we found out that the Delhi agent had made a runner without paying for the coach or our hotel bill. I had planned to send my extra bag with him, but it was not to be.

What was supposed to be a wonderful trekking experience, turned out to be an

attempt to make us into mountaineers.

(Comments to jubhai@aol.com.... To read other reports of past trips and adventures visit my website www.jayantdoshiwebs.com ….more photos on Kodak Gallery)