Directed Energy, Inc.

HID/Halogen Projector Headlamps

1997-2004 Corvette

Congratulations on your purchase of the most innovative headlight system available for the C5 Corvette. Your new, HID projector headlamps will give your Corvette an updated, European look while adding considerably brighter output.

Installation is straightforward and is completely reversible, should you choose to remove your Sun Guns lighting system in the future.

Directed Energy, Inc.

Tools Required10mm wrench, 10mm socket (preferably deep), 8mm wrench, Torx 15 driver, Torx 20 driver, small Phillips screwdriver

Standard Parts Included2 HID ballasts 2 High & low-beam fully-adjustable projector headlamps mounted to aluminum frames2 Carbon fiber shrouds (optional)2 Headlamp stop brackets (patent pending)4 Stabilizing bars (2 thin, 2 thick)2 HID low-beam projector bulbs1 Wiring harness

replacing hid bulbs

You can remove the ancillary wires from the HID bulb harnesses. Carefully cut through the rubber grommet to remove the red and black spaded wires that terminate in a male weather tight connector (Fig. A). These wires aren’t needed, but you can save them for fu-ture projects.

Replace the bulbs with the HID bulbs supplied. Make sure the bulbs are properly seated and snugly clipped in.

Sun Guns Kit Contents

Stabilizer Bars, Thin (2) Stop Brackets (2) Stabilizer Bars, Thick (2)

Shrouds (Optional, 2)

Projector Headlamp Assemblies (2)

Ballasts (2)

HID Low-Beam Bulb (2) Wiring Harness

removing stock headlamps

1. Open your Corvette’s hood.

2. Disconnect the negative (black) cable from your battery.

3. Starting on the driver’s (left) side, remove the two screws at the back of the headlamp cover using a Torx 15 driver (Fig. B).

4. Raise the headlamp unit by turning the knob on the back (Fig. C). Later models may have a rubber boot over the knob - remove this to access the knob.

5. Remove the three screws that retain the headlamp bezel to the headlamp cover using a Torx 15 driver. Pull the bezel forward and downward to remove it.

6. Remove the remaining two screws that are holding the headlamp cover on, one on each side, using a Torx 15 driver.

7. Remove the two pivot pin nuts on the top of the headlamp unit with a Torx 20 driver and an 8mm wrench (Fig. D). While support-ing the headlamp unit with your hand from un-derneath, remove the two pivot pin bolts. You may need to relieve pressure slightly on the headlamp unit by lowering it via the headlamp knob. Be careful not to lose the plastic pivot pin bushings that are on the pivot pin bolts. Gently lower the headlamp unit while turning it down to reveal the back side.

8. Remove the pivot pin retaining clip and slide the pivot pin out, freeing the headlamp unit (Fig. E).

9. Disconnect the low and high-beam con-nectors and remove the headlamp unit from the car.

Fig. C

Fig. D

Fig. B

Fig. ARemove black& red wires

10. On a workbench or convenient table area, make sure that the horizontal and vertical ad-justing rods work smoothly, as these are nec-essary in order for proper alignment of your new projector headlamps. Use a Torx 20 driver inserted into the end of the adjusting rods to check for proper movement. If these adjusting rods fail to move the headlamps in either direction, they must be disassembled and lubricated.

11. Remove the four bolts that hold the head-lamps to the frame, using a 10mm socket wrench. Remove stock headlamp units from the frame.

installing sun guns

12. Place projector assembly on frame and attach to the same holes using a 10mm sock-et and 10mm wrench. NOTE: The mount-ing tabs on the Sun Guns assembly can be placed in front of or behind the stock mount-ing framework, whichever position allows for unrestricted adjustability.

13. The stabilizer bars are used for securing the back of the headlamp’s mounting base, minimizing any vibration of the headlamp as-semblies. 2 sets of stabilizer bars are includ-ed, due to manufacturing differences in the C5 from year to year. Start by taping (masking tape) the thin stabilizer bar to the headlamp base (Fig. G) so that it fits flush with the width of the base (yellow arrows), and the notch fit-ting around the protruding, stock screw (red arrow). The goal is to make sure the stabilizer bar contacts the plastic tabs of the headlamp mounting frame when the Sun Guns are fully open. You may need to replace these with the thicker bars later on, so don’t use the included mounting tape yet.

14. Back at the car, remove the two headlamp motor mounting screws and the one swing Fig. H

Horizontal alignment rod

Vertical alignment rod

Fig. F

Fig. E

Fig. G

arm retaining nut (Fig. H, yellow arrows). The front screw and middle nut require a 10mm socket or wrench while the back nut requires a 10mm wrench and socket, or two 10mm wrenches. Remove the swing arm. Remove the lower stop cushion (Fig. H, red arrow).

15. Place the included stop bracket in posi-tion and replace the front screw and rear nut (Fig. I). The rear hole on the stop bracket is enlarged to allow for up/down adjustment of the headlamp opening, so position the rear of the bracket about halfway through its travel path. Tighten moderately.

16. Replace the swing arm without its retain-ing nut. Rotate the manual headlamp-raising knob full cycle, causing the swing arm to travel its full path. Note that there is adequate clearance of the swing arm “ear” and that it does not rub on the mounting bracket. On early model C5s the supplied bracket may not fit flush against the wall due to the rear mounting bolt not being in the same plane as the front one. If this is the case and you see that the ear is contacting the bracket, you will need to bend the swing arm’s ear out slightly in order to clear the bracket. Repeat this step until the ear travels smoothly, only stopping at the rear stop (up position) and the front stop (closed position). Replace the swing arm retaining nut and tighten with fingers only.

17. Replace the headlamp assembly by inserting it into the headlamp cavity, lenses facing down with one hand underneath to steady it, and sliding the pivot pin into position and through the swing arm. A towel placed in the bottom of the headlamp cavity will ensure that the lenses ad bezels don’t get scratched. Don’t install the pin retaining clip at this point (Fig. E).

18. Swing the headlamp assembly up into position and reinsert the two pivot pins from Fig. D, but don’t replace the pivot pin retaining nuts at this point.

19. With the hood up, replace the headlamp cover and insure that it sits flatly on the headlamp assembly. Rotate the headlamp knob (Fig. C) so that the headlamp is in its full open position.

20. Measure the opening on each side of the headlamp at the seam where the fascia meets the fender on the outside, and where the fascia meets the hood on the inside. You are looking for approximately 3-1/4" on the inside and 2-1/4" on the outside. Cutting out a couple of card-board “measuring sticks” (Fig. K) at these sizes will help in making adjustments quicker.

Fig. I

Fig. K

~3-1/4" ~2-1/4"

21. If your measurements are within 3/16" of these, then you’re almost done with this side. Proceed to Step #24.

22. Your measurements are off by more than 3/16", so adjustments to the stop bracket should be made. Remove the headlamp cover and headlamp assembly. Loosen the two stop bracket mounting screws (Fig. I) and move the back of the stop bracket up or down a slight amount. If your measurements are less than those shown in Fig. K, move the back of the stop bracket down slightly. This will allow the headlamp to come up further. A small change here will yield a greater difference of the headlamp opening amount. Conversely, if your measurements are more than in Fig. K, moving the back of the stop bracket up will decrease the headlamp open-ing amount.

23. Repeat Steps #19 through #21.

24. Now it’s time to check the clearance of the stabilizing bar. Manually lower the headlamp assembly slightly, using the knob, about 3 or 4 turns.

25. Slide a piece of paper betweeen the stabilizer bar and the stabilizer tabs (2 yellow, plastic tabs at back of the headlamp mounting frame) leaving enough of the paper sticking out so it can be reached. This is will tell you if the stabilier bar is contacting the stabilizing tabs. If you’re missing the tabs, it’s not a problem as they are simply a cushion.

26. Manually raise the headlamp assembly back to its fully open position, with paper in place. Pull on the piece of paper to see if it can be extracted. If it cannot be, then you have the right stabilizer bar installed - go to Step #27. If the paper is easily removed, you can make small adjustments by bending the stablizer tabs upward slightly. If the gap between the bar and tabs can’t be closed by bending the tabs slightly, then you need to replace the thin stabilizer bar with the thick one. If this is the case, remove the headlamp assembly, go back to Step #13, and replace the stabilizer bar with the thick one.

27. Completely remove the headlamp cover and assembly.

28. Remove the stabilizing bar, apply the sup-plied double-sided tape, and replace it (Fig. L). Whichever stabilizer bar was used on this side, will also be used on the other side.

29. Tighten up the stop bracket mounting screws and the swing arm pivot nut (Fig. I)

30. Repeat Steps #3 through #29 for the pas-senger side.

Fig. L

Fig. M

Fig. N

electrical connections

31. Lay the wiring harness on top of the pas-senger side, from the battery (red, positive lead), over the coolant tank, to the headlamp opening (Fig. M). The longest wire goes in front of the radiator, over to the driver’s side headlamp.

32. In the headlamp cavities, locate a spot in which to fasten your ballasts. They can be placed anywhere as long as they don’t inter-fere with the operation of the headlamp as-semblies and their wires can still be connect-ed to the headlamps. They also need to be in close proximity to the plugs incorporated into the Sun Guns wiring harness. You can use the included screws (drilling required) or 3M double-sided tape. If using tape, thoroughly clean the mounting surfaces, including the ballasts. Also wipe the mounting areas with rubbing (isopropyl or ethyl) alcohol to remove any residue. Fig. N shows the ballast mount-ed to the frame rail and back of the headlamp cavity with double-sided tape.

33. Secure the relay in the passenger side headlamp area so that it does not interfere with the operation of the headlamps. NOTE: There is a tapped hole just under the lead-ing edge of the headlamp cavity. You can use this (10mm fine thread bolt), if unoccupied, to mount the relay (Fig. O). Otherwise, use the double sided tape to secure the relay.

34. Replace the Sun Guns assemblies by in-serting them into their respective headlamp cavities, lenses facing down, with one hand underneath to steady it, and sliding the pivot pin into position and through the swing arm (Fig. P). A towel placed in the bottom of the headlamp cavity will ensure that the lenses and bezels don’t get scratched. Replace the pivot pin retaining clip.

Fig. O

Fig. P

35. Join the male connectors on the Sun Guns harness to the female connectors on the ballasts (Fig. Q). The stock high-beam connectors (green & black wires) are plugged into the high-beam projectors. Mate up the two small male and female connectors from the ballasts to the low-beam projectors. The stock low-beam connector on the passenger’s side (brown & black wires) plugs into the Sun Guns female connector. NOTE: The stock low-beam connector (brown & black wires) on the driver’s side is not used and can be taped up to prohibit corrosion.

36. Swing each headlamp assembly up into position and reinsert the two pivot pins from Fig. D. Replace the pivot pin retaining nuts. It is advised to use a drop of thread locker on these nuts.

37. Lower the headlamp assemblies com-pletely using their knobs (Fig. C).

38. Loosen the battery compartment wall re-taining pin by prying it out with a small screw-driver (Fig. R). Loosen the battery compart-ment wall by pulling it slightly to the left. A gap should appear at the upper right corner of the battery compartment.

39. Feed the positive lead and fuse holder through the gap from underneath and route the lead along the inside right of the compart-ment wall.

40. Remove the positive terminal nut on the lower left side of the fuse box and attach the harness’ positive lead to the terminal post (Fig. S). Replace the terminal nut and tighten.

41. Refasten the battery compartment wall by pressing the retaining pin back in. The har-ness’ red fuse box will be nestled in between the fuse box and the battery compartment wall.

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42. Moving forward, tuck the lead to the relay around the coolant tank and into the headlamp opening, such that it doesn’t interfere with any moving parts.

43. Remove the negative ground retaining nut on the frame rail located at the foot of the hood prop (Fig. T).

44. Inspect the contact areas here to make sure there is a very solid grounding connec-tion. Clean if necessary. Place the harness’ ground terminal loop over the frame’s ground stud and replace the retaining nut securely.

45. Repeat Steps #43 & #44 for the driver’s side grounds.

46. Reattach the negative ground to the bat-tery.

47. Close the hood.

48. Turn on the ignition while car is in Park/Neutral, and let car idle for at least 2 min-utes.

49. Turn on the low-beam headlamps, two clicks forward on the end of the headlamp stalk. Turn off headlamps and then on again, making sure headlamps open and close to-gether smoothly.

50. With the low-beams on, turn on the high-beams (stalk pushed forward). Make sure both high-beams come on. The low-beams will go off at this time.

51. Turn off high-beams (pull stalk back to center position). Turn off low-beams, but leave the lights up (one click back on the end of the stalk). Turn off the ignition.

52. Carefully place the headlamp covers in position.

53. Lower the headlamps by turning the end of the stalk back one more click.

Fig. R

Fig. S

Fig. T

54. Check for alignment of headlamp covers in relation to the fenders, hood and fascia. If necessary, remove the covers and make small adjustments to the four leveling studs on the top of the headlamp assembly. Once each cover sits flush with its surroundings, replace the cover, but do not install the head-lamp cover retaining screws (Fig. Q).

55. On the inboard side of one headlamp pair, use a Torx 20 driver in the end of the stock vertical adjusting rod (the long one), move the headlamp pair up/down. This will be a visual alignment - the goal is to have a fairly equal gap between the headlamp cover to top of projectors and the bottom of projectors to the fascia. As a guide, place a flat piece of card-board on your fascia so that it comes close to your high-beam projector. The cardboard should intersect the projector lens at it lowest point (Fig. R).

56. Adjust the headlamp pair left or right us-ing the stock horizontal adjusting rod on the outboard side of the headlamp pair. The goal here is to visually ensure that the lights are pointing directly forward, parallel to the direction of travel.

57. Repeat Steps #55 and #56 for the other headlamp pair. At this point, your headlamps should look fairly centered within their openings, and look similar on each side.

58. Replace the headlamp covers, securing them with their four (each cover) screws. Lower the headlamps unless you’re ready to aim them.

aiming your sun guns

This procedure should be performed at dusk or later, depending on available ambient light. Refer to Fig. S and T for a visual of the alignment setup.

59. Find a flat, level area with a vertical wall, with a distance of at least 50' from the wall.

60. Place a 10" piece of tape vertically on the wall with the bottom of the tape approximately 18" from the ground.

Fig. Q

Fig. R

Fig. S

61. With a piece of tape, mark a line on the ground parallel to the wall at a distance of 25' from the wall, and in line with the tape on the wall. Place another piece of tape on the ground perpendicular to the first one so that it points directly at the tape on the wall.

62. Align your Corvette so that the front edge of your front fascia is above the 25' mark and as perpendicular to the wall as possible. To help in aligning your car, you can put a small piece of tape vertically in the center of your windshield and another in the center of your back window. By moving your car so as to align these two pieces of tape to the verti-cal tape on the wall (as viewed from behind your car), you will be assured of perfect align-ment.

63. Measure the distance from the ground to the center of one of your low-beam projectors (they should be the same, within a fraction of an inch). This will be referred to as “V”. As a reference, a stock C5 lowered all the way on stock bolts will have a V of approximately 24". An unmodified, stock C5 will have a V amount greater than this, while a “slammed” C5 will have a V of less than 24".

64. On the wall, put a 6" piece of tape hori-zontally, intersecting the vertical tape so that the point of intersection is at a distance of V from the ground.

65. On the wall, measure out 27" from the vertical piece of tape and put a second 6" piece of tape vertically on the wall such that its midpoint is approximately distance V from the ground. Repeat for the other side.

66. On one of these vertical pieces of tape, measure up from the ground the V amount and place a horizontal piece of tape 6" long. Repeat for the other side. You now have 3 crosses of tape on the wall indicating the cen-ter of your car and the centers of your low-beam headlamps, all at a distance V from the ground.

67. Turn on your headlamps, low-beam only. You will see a backwards Z-pattern projected on the wall for each light.

68. Cover one light with a towel or shield it from showing on the wall. NOTE: These lights become very HOT. Make sure your shield doesn’t touch the light for any length of time!

69. Using a small Phillips screwdriver, adjust the three adjusting screws (Fig. U) that hold the low-beam projector in place so that the lower horizontally projected line is approxi-mately 2" below the V amount line on the wall. Although this amount can vary, it is a recom-mended starting point.

70. Using the adjusting screws, horizontally adjust the point where the “step up” begins, 2" below the cross on the wall (Fig. U).

71. Repeat Steps #68 - #70 for the other low-beam projector.

72. Turn on your high-beams by pushing for-ward on your light stalk. Your low-beams will turn off. Your halogen high-beams will project a circular pattern on the wall for each light.

73. Again, cover one headlamp. Using a small Phillips screwdriver, adjust the three adjusting screws that hold the high-beam projector in place so that the center of the beam coincides with the center of the respective cross on the wall. Repeat for the other headlamp.

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74. Prior to installing the headlamp shrouds, drive around various streets and in varying traffic conditions to see if you get “flashed” by oncoming cars. If all goes without incident, proceed to Step #75, otherwise go back to Step #68 and lower the low beam an addi-tional half inch (V-2.5") at the wall.

installing the shrouds

75. Open your hood and disconnect your bat-tery’s negative ground.

76. Manually raise one headlamp assembly using the knob as pictured in Fig. C.

77. The optional shrouds can have sharp edg-es, so take precaution as to not cause dam-age to your projectors, paint and skin. Apply one or two layers of masking tape to the edge of the fascia and hood, and also to the projec-tor bezels (Fig. V).

78. The shrouds are installed by attaching them to the headlamp cover first, and then positioned onto the headlamp assembly to-gether. Slide the shroud onto the headlamp cover, ensuring that the tab on the top of the shroud goes under the metal spring clip on the underside of the headlamp cover.

79. Secure the shroud to the headlamp cover with two screws, at the back of the shroud, one on each side.

80. Insert the shroud/cover onto the head-lamps by inserting the bottom edge of the shroud first, at a 90° angle to the headlamps, and then rotating the shroud backwards over the projectors (Fig. W). Take your time, watch-ing on all sides and from the back, while you position the shroud. If you find that the screws holding the shroud to the cover are causing interference, file down the ends of the screws to gain additional clearance. The shroud/cov-

Fig. V

Fig. W

Fig. X

er assembly is a fairly tight fit, so it may be necessary to slightly lower and/or raise the head-lamp assembly while fitting it.

81. Check for a uniform fit within each opening. Fine adjustments can be made using the three screws holding each projector (Fig. U). If the lights need to moved forward or backward within the openings, adjust all three screws the same amount. If any adjustments are made, make sure that your lights are still properly aligned by checking against the wall markings (Fig. T).

82. Once properly aligned, the bottom of the shrouds should be flush with the fascia, +/- 1/8" (Fig. X).

83. Secure the shroud/cover to the headlamp assembly using the two stock screws, through the large holes in the shroud. Replace the two stock screws at the rear of the headlamp cov-er.

84. Repeat Steps #76 through 83 for the other shroud.

85. Reattach the negative battery ground. Close your hood.

86. Start the car and allow it to idle for a minute.

87. Turn on your Sun Guns and cycle through high and low beams to ensure that all lamps are functioning properly.

88. Turn Sun Guns off and on again to ensure that the headlamps pop up and close appropri-ately.

89. Turn off Sun Guns.

90. Turn off your C5.

Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of the latest in high performance lighting avail-able for the C5 Corvette - Directed Energy’s Sun GunS.

Directed Energy, Inc.

For technical assistance please call: Michael Bassett at 775-315-0814