Heritage Village Civil War Weekend

Clothing guidelines

Civilian re-enactors and Heritage Village volunteers.

Far from being just a “dress-up event,” Civil War Days at Heritage Village provides an educational opportunity for the public to learn about many aspects of the 1860’s, and the events that were occurring. Just a little bit of time an effort on our part can ensure that our visitors leave the event with an accurate impression. That accuracy reflects back onto Heritage Village—letting folks know what sort of care this museum takes. This year, volunteers have two options when choosing what to wear to this event:

1. A Heritage Village t-shirt and tan pants. Museums, national parks, and living history villages (including Conner Prairie) use this uniform as a way of letting folks know that this is a person who can answer questions—both historical and modern. While costumed first-person volunteers must remain in the 1860s, this volunteer does not find it awkward to answer such questions as “Where is the bathroom? Or How did these houses get moved here?” This option is easy for folks to find, comfortable for everyone to wear, and allows volunteers to be easily recognized by the public (and visiting re-enactors) as the trained and knowledgeable individuals that they are. As Heritage Village conducts events that represent a variety of eras throughout the year, this option keeps a volunteer from being burdened with the task of assembling period-correct outfits for multiple eras.

2. Period-correct 1860s clothing, i.e. an approved outfit that matches the guidelines below. Modern visitors rarely see women in full-length dresses or men wearing vests and jackets in their everyday lives, so would be tempting to pick anything that looks old-fashioned to wear—knowing that many of our visitors won’t know the difference. However, as a museum, our visitors are trusting that they will learn history when they come, and when we make the effort to match our impressions to the era we are representing, we’ve earned that trust.

(Note: I consider the ball, however, to more of a “dress-up” occasion. Those of us who grew up—and are still growing up—watching Cinderella find a dress for the ball know that how important the chance to twirl in a poofy dress can be—whatever the style of that dress!)

I am looking forward to hearing that this was the best-dressed Civil War event that Greater Cincinnati has ever seen! ☺☺☺☺

General Guidelines for period-correct 1860’s clothing

Want to get your outfit approved? Have questions or need help?

E-mail Dana at TeacherGagnon@gmail.com

If your impression is of a particular character (i.e. the lady of the house or a maid), keep that station in mind when selecting clothing. Tip: Consider portraying household help instead of the upperclass home owner. Not only will correct clothing be easier to assemble, but the character allows for more entertaining discussion opportunities with the public. (Who would be more likely to tell a visitor the household gossip?)

Gents

The shirt

The most common men’s shirt was a pull-over with three buttons at the top. White is the most common color, although a working shirt could be made from homespun. (See the free pattern hand-out.) The vest (waistcoat)

A gentleman’s shirt was considered underclothes; he wouldn’t leave the house without also wearing a vest and coat. (If you have an appropriate sack coat to wear, you can skip the waistcoat—but ONLY if you plan to keep the coat on all the time. In July, I suggest wearing a waistcoat. ☺ The material for the back of the vest should be plain; save the patterned material for the front. Waistcoats are short, and have a straight waistline. (Pattern: You can use the vest pattern from Simplicity 2895. Ignore the rest of the pattern items in that envelope—they’re kind of cheesy.) The coat A gent would not leave the house without a coat. The sack coat was considered sporty, and has a simple cut. If you are planning to be in a building all day, you won’t need a coat—but if you’re not wearing a coat, be sure to have a waistcoat. (E-mail Dana if you’d like more information about period styles or pattern sources.) The pants The waistline is high—there should be no gap between the vest bottom and pants top. Find a pair with a flat front, preferably with pockets in line with the side seams. Men used suspenders (or “braces”), not belts. If you are repurposing a high-waisted pair of modern slacks, remove the belt loops and sew on buttons for the suspenders. (Pattern: Many historical pattern makers have patterns available. You may also use the pants part of McCall’s pattern M4745—which is a uniform costume pattern.) The shoes Lace-up or slip-on dress shoes (or ankle boots) will work. Avoid cowboy boats, work boots, or any shoes with chunky rubber soles. (Tip: You can find leather-soled dress shoes at the thrift store!) The hat

Along with their coat, men leaving the house would wear a hat. If you will be working inside a house, you will not need one. (E-mail Dana if you’d like more information about period styles and sources. Don’t purchase a hat without research—your wallet will thank you!)

Ladies

Under clothing While most of your underclothing can not be seen, there are two items that—if missing—will be noticeable.

A. Skirt support

This will keep your long skirts from tangling around your legs, and is really there for practical reasons—not just the look. This can be either a hoop (but not Scarlett O’Hara-sized, please.) or a corded petticoat (which can be inexpensively and simply made). (If you’ll be cooking at the event, hoops are not advisable.) Tip: If you’re wearing a hoop, you’ll want to make sure you’re wearing drawers, too—just in case! *wink* Tip: the bottom run of your hoop should be about 6 inches off of the ground.) (See free pattern hand-out for the corded petticoat.) B. The corset

Corsets were not actually torture devices—just support. Even working women wore them. If a lady is missing one, her dress will not fit properly. (Imagine a 1940’s dress on a lady who is not wearing a 1940’s girdle.) More comfortable corsets for working were “boned” with cording instead of steel.

The dress Basic characteristics of a dress:

• Off-the-shoulder shoulder seam (Rounded shoulders are “the look.”)

• One piece, all the same fabric (While I know there are examples of differently-colored tops and bottoms, they were nearly all made from high fashion fabrics like silk and worn by fashionable young ladies of society—not worn cooking at the hearth.) Tip: If you’re sewing for a growing teen, leave extra fabric in the length of the bodice, and baste the skirt on. Then you’ll be able to move it for next year’s event! ☺

• The bodice should be fitted (not loose or “one-size-fits-all”)

• Waistband at the natural waist (Think 1980s jeans, not modern ones.) ☺

• Look for a fabric print that has a repetitive pattern (and not a random print).

• For a pattern to trace, see Dana’s copy of the “Period Impressions mid-1850’s to 1860’s work dress.” Simplicity and McCall’s patterns do not currently have a basic day dress or work dress pattern in print.

The shoes

Lace-up ankle boots can be found at many thrift stores. Let me know if you’re having a hard time finding a size—I’m always on the lookout! Plan to wear solid-colored long stockings with your boots. Tip: Buy a size bigger to leave room for a supportive shoe-cushion insert. Hair

Ladies hair should be parted in the middle and “done up,” not worn loose. Hair nets, although not always worn, would be thin netting that blended in with your hair, and worn over your “done up” hair—not over loose hair. The “snood” was not worn until the 1940’s. If you have a really modern hairstyle (or hair color), plan on wearing a bonnet (or using day cap to disguise it). A lady would have worn a bonnet (either a dress bonnet or a working slat bonnet) when outdoors. At this event, of course, most of us are stationed in a house or at a tent that we

are pretending is our house—no bonnet required. If you plan to wear head gear, be careful of the small trendy hats. Many of the ones that costumers sell are not correct (at least for this era). Even period-correct hats would be for a well-dressed, trendy, and usually younger lady. (E-mail Dana for a free slat-bonnet pattern if you’ll be working outside. These are great in the July sunshine!)

Children Young girls should wear shorter skirts. (Make sure those wiggly munchkins have drawers on.) ☺ Young girls may wear their hair down. (Most pictures I’ve seen from the era show young girls with the same hairstyles as their mommies, but I wouldn’t object to hair that’s down or in “Laura Ingall” braids.) Girls’ hair should be parted in the middle. Dress styles for young girls included a more open-necked and short-sleeved dress. Young boys (ages 5 to 10) should wear 3/4-length pants. (By 12, they start to dress like Dad.) Shoe alternatives for growing feet: Black flats, Mary Janes. (For boys—black lace-up dress shoes.)

Accountability Please take a moment to check your outfit with Dana before the event. During the event, Dana may invite you to visit the “Impression First Aid Station.” We’ll have a few items there to help mend a stray hairstyle or mend an errant waistband—but the station will not be equipped to completely outfit a volunteer from scratch. With a little planning, we’ll be the best-dressed event Greater Cincinnati has ever seen!

Pinching Pennies Gents

Item Supplies Cost

Shirt 3 yards white or homespun cotton fabric Homespun calico @ Hobby Lobby = 3.50/yd

5 white buttons (I tend to find the least expensive buttons at Hancock Fabrics.)

$10.50 Approx $2

Vest

(waistcoat) 1.5 yards of fabric (A remnant of upholstery fabric will do for the front; use plain color—black, gray, etc—for back.)

6 buttons, one buckle slide for the back

Approx. $10

Pants High-waisted slacks with a flat front from the thrift store (remove belt loops, add suspender buttons) OR use McCall’s pattern M4745—which uses about 3 yards of lightweight wool. (Local fabric stores don’t really carry 100% wool. You can buy it online at FashionFabricsClub.com for about $10-$15/yard.) OR buy ready-made ones from James Country Mercantile online

Approx. $8 OR Approx. $40 OR $35-$38

Shoes Thrift store dress shoes (lace-up with leather soles, or ankle boots…) OR this pair of new men’s ankle boots available online: www.6pm.com/giorgio-brutini-conner-black

Approx $5 OR

$44.99

total $35.50 to $91.50

Ladies

Item Supplies Cost

Skirt

support

Hoop (order online from angelsbridal on eBay—then make adjustments to hoop) OR Corded petticoat (2.5 to 3 yards white muslin, 30 yards cotton corded upholstery piping, twill tape drawstring)

$26.70 (with Hobby Lobby coupon)

$13

Corset Fashion corset (order online from The Fashion Corset Shop) OR Historic corset (order online from Treadle Treasures on Etsy) (cheapest one I’ve seen)

$32.90 $79

Dress 8 yards of cotton fabric ($28 for Hobby Lobby homespun to about $40 for other prints at JoAnn Fabrics—and up.) Lots of small buttons (Ready-made dresses are $100 and up—used. It’s really worth it to make one.)

Fabric: $28 Buttons: approx. $5 (and up, depending on what fabric you choose)

Shoes Thrift store for lace-up ankle books OR Old Navy slip-on ankle boots

$5 $27 to $34

total $83.90 to approx. $175