Healthy Homesite...downstream. Tea-colored water often comes from the brown tannin of decaying...

• Protecting Your Watershed

• Protecting Your Land From Erosion

• Protecting Streambanks from Erosion

• Managing Streamside Areas with Buffers

• Before You Buy: Wells, Septic Systems, and aHealthy Homesite

• After You Buy: Wells, Septic Systems, and aHealthy Homesite

• Filling Out a Project Permit

• Enhancing Wildlife Habitat

For more information, contact:

Multnomah County Environmental Compliance (503) 988-5050

East Multnomah Soil & Water Conservation District (503) 222-7645

West Multnomah Soil & Water Conservation District (503) 238-4775

FactSheetFactSheet

Tips for StreamsideLandowners inMultnomah County

This fact sheet was produced by the Washington County Soil and Water Conservation District (SWCD) and the Small Acreage Steering Committee. The Governor’s WatershedEnhancement Board, the Oregon Association of Conservation Districts, and the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service funded the project. Media Works of Bozeman,Montana designed the fact sheet. You may reproduce or copy any portion of the text by notifying the Washington County SWCD at (503) 648-3174. Please acknowledge thispublication as the source. Additional permission is needed to reproduce credited pictures.

FactSheetFactSheet

Protecting Your Watershed

Tips for Small Acreages in Northwest Oregon

Discovering a WatershedWhat is a watershed? Wherever you go, there you are, in a watershed. A

watershed is simply all the land area that drains to a specific point. Browse a mapand you can find your watershed by finding the closest stream. Trace up thestream to its furthest point upland and you reach the headwaters; trace down andyou reach the mouth at a larger stream, a lake, or the Pacific Ocean. Thesurrounding ridgetops define the watershed boundaries.

And there you are. The land drains into tributaries and tributaries flow intothe river. As the water flows downhill, it moves over the land or drains throughthe soil. Along the way, water picks up woody debris, leaves, and needles thatprovide the foundation of food and shelter for aquatic life in streams. Water canalso carry motor oil, fertilizer, pesticides, and eroded soil. Small actions likedriving the car, fertilizing pasture, or even walking the dog can inadvertentlypollute the watershed you live in. As the tributaries flow into theriver, so do the pollutants. It all adds up.

Watershed Functions:How We Change Them

A watershed does three things, but ouractivities can disrupt its usual cycle:

1) Captures water.Rain naturally enters the earththrough soil, roots, and animaltunnels. When buildings,pavement, and other hardsurfaces cover the ground,infiltration is hindered. Insteadof being absorbed, water runs offinto road ditches and into thenearest stream, causing severestream erosion and floods.

2) Stores water.After rain enters the soil, it fills the spacesbetween rocks and soil particles and becomesgroundwater. Shallow groundwater enters theplant root zone where roots and soil organismshelp to break down pollutants. Deepgroundwater enters an area like a refrigerator:dark and cold, where little biological breakdownoccurs. Septic system effluents, spilled motor oil,and excess fertilizers and pesticides can reachdeep groundwater, polluting public and privatewells. In Oregon, about 5 percent of private wellsare polluted.

3) Releases water.Springs, wetlands, and floodplains slowly releasegroundwater into lakes and streams. When theseareas are filled or drained, water storage isreduced, and water runs quickly into the stream.Floods can be more frequent and damaging, whilesummer flows may be low or nonexistent.Land use changes can disrupt the natural

functions of a watershed. As a result, streams canerode and flood more often, water quality maydecline, treatment costs may rise, and fishcommunities may collapse. Read on to identifyproblems in your watershed and find out what youcan do to restore your watershed to better health...

Stewardship/(stu-erd-ship)1. A personalcommitment tocare for the land.2. To sustain orenhance theland forenjoyment offuturegenerations.

King County Dept. of Natural Resources

“I want to be able tosee my feet.”

– Bernie Fowler,former Marylandsenator, standing

chest high in a riverand talking about

watershed goals

How Healthy Is Your Stream?Streambed sediment.

If gravel and cobbles are present, lessthan 25 percent of the gravel, cobble,and boulder spaces should be filled withsediment. A marginal to poor conditionexists if more than 50 percent of thespaces are filled.

Algae color.Algae thrive on nutrients fromcommercial fertilizers, leaf waste, andmanure. Light or dark green algaescattered in spots indicates a healthystream. Matted or hairy algae meanpoor stream quality. Brown algae pointto sediment deposits. An algae bloomindicates excess nutrients.

Streambank erosion.Bare spots on streambanks mayindicate an unhealthy stream. Woodedstreambanks seldom erode, even inhigh floods. Steep banks, frequent treefall, and more than 10 percent bankerosion along a stretch of stream mayindicate erosion problems.

Riffles.Riffles occur when water runs overrocky or rough streambeds. A mix ofriffles and quiet pools provide good fishhabitat. The ideal habitat for manyaquatic animals is a streambed withcobbles from 2 to 10 inches in diameter.

Fish shelter.Submerged logs and dead trees providegood fish habitat.

Stream shade.Trees overhanging more than 50percent of the streambank provide goodfish habitat. Less than 50 percentindicates fair to poor habitat.

Stream temperature.If you have a thermometer handy,measuring a temperature less than 50degrees is good, 50 to 64 degrees is fair,and more than 64 degrees is poor.Warm water threatens salmon, trout,and steelhead. Temperature is animportant water standard in Oregon.

More than 17,000 small acreagefarms cover 298,000 acres inOregon. Singly, one farm may causelittle pollution. But added together,small acreages can significantlyimpact a watershed. A streamreflects your management of theland and water. Proper upland andinstream measures can result inclean water for fish, drinking, andswimming. You can check the healthof your stream by using your eyesand legs.

Water color.Clear water is often found duringlow flows. Muddy color occursduring high flows and whenupstream activities send sedimentdownstream. Tea-colored wateroften comes from the browntannin of decaying leaves. Coloredsheen may indicate an oil spill.

Foam.Froth on a stream can be naturalor human-caused. Natural foamhas an earthy or fishy smell. Soapor detergent foam will have aperfume smell.

USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service

Adapted from: Save Our Streams, Izaak Walton League;Rangeland Watershed Management Program Stream/Watercourse Site Evaluation, Oregon State University;Vermont Streambank Conservation Manual, Agency ofEnvironmental Conservation.

PROTECTING YOUR WATERSHED - TIPS FOR SMALL ACREAGES IN NORTHWEST OREGON

Motor fuel, exhaust.Consumer products, e.g. batteries.Construction materials.Naturally present in soil.

Pollutants at Large in Your WatershedPoint source pollution is pollution that comes from one source, such as a

factory pipe outlet. Nonpoint source pollution is pollution that comes frommany different sources, such as overfertilized lawns, trampledstreambanks, or eroding pastures. Test your nonpoint knowledge:

ImpactPollutant Nonpoint Source

Bacteria contaminate drinking waterand swimming areas.People eating contaminated fish/shellfish can contract hepatitis,stomach and intestinal problems, etc.

Septic tanks poorly sited or maintained.Livestock and pet waste.

Bacteria

HighTemperature,

LowDissolvedOxygen,

Salinity

Straightened streams.Dikes and dams.Upland practices, e.g. stream shade removed,poor grazing practices, drained wetlands.Plant litter, e.g., leaves and lawn trimmingsdumped into ditches.Irrigation leaching.

High temperature reduces oxygen.Plant decay process uses up oxygen.Low oxygen and high salinity stuntreproduction, increase diseases, andkill fish.

Crop fertilizers, livestock manure.Landscape, lawn, and garden fertilizers.Pet excrement.Septic tanks poorly sited or maintained.

Nutrients cause algae blooms that dieand lower oxygen levels.Noxious algae blooms and discoloredwater limit recreation.Nitrates in groundwater kill livestockand sicken infants.

Phosphorus,

Nitrogen

Sediment fills wetlands, destroyshabitat, and smothers feeding andspawning areas.Sediment carries nutrients.Ports are dredged more often.Cities have increased costs to filterdrinking water.

Erosion from poor grazing practices, tillingground, logging roads.Sheet, rill, and gully erosion.Dredging, streambank erosion.Bed scour from straightened streams.Construction, land clearing.Natural erosion.

Sediment

Heavy metals disrupt fish/shellfishreproduction and can be passed up thefood chain.People eating contaminated fish/shellfish can develop brain damageand fetal defects.

HeavyMetals

Petroleum products accumulate insediment, resist breakdown, and aretoxic to fish in low amounts.Potential carcinogen in people.

Fuel, antifreeze, grease, brake-lining particles,and exhaust from cars.Runoff from roads, parking lots, anddriveways.Dumping oil down stormdrains.

CarPollutants

Batteries, pesticides, household cleaners, andpaints.Poor storage, handling, and disposal ofhazardous chemicals.

Pesticides kill aquatic insects andreduce fish food supply.Some pesticides cause bone defects andreproductive problems in fish.Unknown effects in people.

Human-madeChemicals

Montana StreamManagement Guide

Adapted from Guidance Specifying Measures for Sources of Nonpoint Pollution in Coastal Waters, US Environmental Protection Agency.

ForHelpForHelp

The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and activities on the basis of race, color, national origin, gender, religion, age, disability,political beliefs, sexual orientation, and marital or familial status. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) Persons with disabilities who require alternativemeans for communication of program information (Braille, large print, audiotape, etc.) should contact USDA’s TARGET Center at (202) 720-2600 (voice and TDD).

To file a complaint of discrimination, write USDA, Director, Office of Civil Rights, Room 326W, Whitten Building, 14th and Independence Avenue, SW, Washington,D.C., 20250-9410, or call (202) 720-5964 (voice or TDD). USDA is an equal opportunity employer.

Small Acreage Stewardship Fact Sheets

11) Managing Mud and Manure12) Fertilizing for Profit13) Protecting Your Land from Erosion14) Planning and Managing Irrigation15) Managing a Sustainable Forest: Western Oregon16) Enhancing Wildlife Habitat17) Planning and Installing a Pond18) Before You Buy: Wells, Septic Systems, and a

Healthy Homesite19) After You Buy: Wells, Septic Systems, and a

Healthy Homesite20) Filling Out a Project Permit

Watershed Councils: The Way to Have a SayWatershed councils offer a trustworthy link between government, community

groups, businesses, and local residents. Councils solve natural resource issues inyour watershed by a locally led effort rather than a top-down, regulatory one.

Watershed councils:Bring local people with diverse natural resource concerns to the same table.Develop watershed approaches that include natural resource concerns andcommunity development priorities.Address hot topics like water quality and endangered species listings.Do not prevent change, but rather direct change towards informed choices.

Watershed councils are the cornerstone to the Oregon Plan for Salmon andWatersheds. Begun in 1995, the plan seeks a voluntary, locally led approach toaddress listed fish species concerns. For more information, contact the Governor’sWatershed Enhancement Board at (503) 986-0178 for a watershed council near you.

Soil and water conservation districts and the USDA Natural ResourcesConservation Service may provide on-site technical advice on conservationmeasures. Look up your local office in the phone book’s blue pages under federalgovernment, Department of Agriculture.Oregon State University Extension Service offers publications, workshops, andover-the-phone assistance on conservation measures. Contact your local office bylooking in the blue pages under state Government in the phone book.Governor’s Watershed Enhancement Board (GWEB) has implementation fundsavailable for watershed projects. Contact GWEB, soil and water conservationdistricts, watershed councils, and other state agencies for more information.

1) Protecting Your Watershed: Eastern Oregon2) Protecting Your Watershed: Northwestern

Oregon3) Protecting Your Watershed: Southwestern

Oregon4) Protecting Streambanks from Erosion5) Installing a Streamside Buffer6) Managing Pastures: Eastern Oregon7) Managing Pastures: Western Oregon8) Managing Pasture Weeds9) Providing Stockwater in Pastures and

Near Streams10) Planning and Installing a Fence

USDA Natural ResourcesConservation Service

We are all powerful because every action matters in a watershed. Considerdeveloping a conservation plan and using conservation measures to protect, carefor, and enhance your property values and watershed health. To get started,browse the other fact sheets in this series which describe conservation tips forsmall acreage landowners. For copies of fact sheets, contact the East MultnomahSoil & Water Conservation District at (503) 222-7645

Your Property: What You Can Do

This fact sheet was produced by the Washington County Soil and Water Conservation District (SWCD) and the Small Acreage Steering Committee. The Governor's WatershedEnhancement Board, the Oregon Association of Conservation Districts, and the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service funded the project. Media Works of Bozeman,Montana designed the fact sheet. You may reproduce or copy any portion of the text by notifying the Washington County SWCD at (503) 648-3174. Please acknowledge thispublication as the source. Additional permission is needed to reproduce credited pictures.

FactSheetFactSheet

Protecting Your Land fromErosionTips for Small Acreages in Oregon

“It can take 1,000years to form an inchof soil.”

USDA Agricultural Research Service

The Soil Is AliveEvery cubic inch of topsoil may

contain over a billion creatures – mostlybacteria, microbes, and fungi. This tinyecosystem recycles dead plant matterback into nutrients that support plantgrowth. When the upper 8 inches of soilstays put, this living layer produces:

Nutrients.Studies show a healthy soil has up to200 percent more nitrogen andphosphorus and 20 percent morepotassium than an eroded soil.

High plant yields.In general, healthy, protected soils have25 percent higher yields than severelyeroded soils. Studies have shown 31percent higher alfalfa yields and 86percent higher barley yields onprotected soils versus eroded soils.

Clean waterways and fish habitat.Studies show that we can save $1 foreach ton of soil that stays on the land.With erosion control, clean gravel bedsproduce healthy fish populations, citiesreduce filtration costs for drinkingwater, and harbors can lower theirdredging costs.

Some soil erosion is natural, butaccelerated erosion is not. A canopy oftrees and shrubs, a thick leaf layer, ordense stand of grass protects soil in itsnatural state when raindrops fall orwinds blow. We speed up erosion byremoving this protective blanket whenwe use poor management during tillage,grazing, timber harvest, or construction.Wind and water erosion create sterilesoils, fill the air with dust, plug roadditches, carry pollutants, and clog fishhabitat. It pays economically andenvironmentally to keep soil in place.

Dirt Alert: Signs ofErosion

A raindrop is like a miniaturewater bomb: it hits the ground at 20miles per hour. When raindrops hitbare soil, water can splash soil up to6 feet away, carry particles off thefield, and drop sediment intodrainageways. Wind also dislodges,moves, and transports soil particles,especially in dry, windy climates.

Most Oregon soils begin to losetheir ability to support plants whenthey erode more than 5 tons of soilper acre each year. This usuallyoccurs through a process called sheeterosion, the gradual wearing away ofa thin layer or “sheet” of soil. Since 10tons of soil lost per acre equals thethickness of a dime, sheet erosion canbe very hard to see! Look for theseclues of sheet, gully, and streambankerosion:

Cloudy or muddy water flows downthe field, road, or driveway.Pebbles and plant pieces aresupported on “pedestals” of soilbecause the surrounding soil hasbeen eroded away.Small rills or gullies begin to show.Dust clouds appear.Soil collects along fences orsnowbanks.Soil splashes on windows, walls,and plants.Sediment builds up on pavement orat low spots in the field.Streams and rivers run cloudy aftera rain.Streambanks crumble and fall intostream. (See ProtectingStreambanks from Erosion in thisfact sheet series for moreinformation.)

USDA Agricultural Research Service

Keeping Soil on Your Land

UW-Extension Service

buffers are tree, shrub, and/or grass strips thatprotect streams, ditches, lakes, and ponds and maybe 35 to 300 feet wide, based on site conditions andyour goals. For more information on riparianbuffers see Installing a Streamside Buffer in thisfact sheet series. Fact sheets are available fromEast Multnomah Soil and Water ConservationDistrict (503) 222-7645.Conservation tillage reduces the amount oftillage and leaves at least 30 percent cover fromcrop residue after harvest and during wintermonths. Soil loss is reduced by 50 percentcompared to bare soil. (Stretch a 100-foot tapeacross the field and count how many times a stem,leaf, or root touches the 1-foot marks. The totalequals the percent cover.)

Here’s how conservation measures reduceerosion:

Create a protective cover.Plant cover, more than anything else, keeps soilerosion in check. Leaves cushion the impact ofwind and rain while roots anchor the soil. Othercovers like mulch, bark dust, rock, and concretealso protect soils.

Erect barriers to wind and water.Barriers slow wind and water and trap erodedsoils. If you cut water speed in half, you will havefour times less erosion! Barriers can be as simpleas grass strips in a field crop, silt fences around aconstruction site, or a windbreak.

Reduce slope length and steepness.In general, plants can protect slopes that are lessthan 50 percent (2:1 gradient or 2 foot run forevery 1 foot drop), mulches protect slopes less than33 percent (3:1 gradient), and erosion controlstructures like terraces may be needed for slopesmore than 50 percent. Cropland terraces areusually used on slopes less than 12 percent. Thelow dams formed by terraces shorten the distancewhere water can gain speed. Metal or concreteerosion control structures safely drop water to alower elevation and reduce the steepness of theremaining slope.

One conservation practice does not fit everyerosion problem. Your soils, climate, topography,and land use will require a unique set of measures.Here’s a sampling of conservation measures thatcan be used whether you have a large garden or afield crop. They are often more effective incombination than alone:

Buffers of trees, shrubs, and/or grass slow waterspeed, filter pollutants, and trap sediment. Theyare used to protect streams, lakes, ponds, andditches, and to stop sediment at the lower edge offield crops. Grass filter strips are effective onslopes less than 10 percent. Contour bufferstrips combine contour farming with strips ofpermanent grass. A ratio of cultivated to bufferstrip width between 4:1 to 9:1 is best. Riparian



Contour farming runs rows “on the level” aroundthe hill rather than up and down the slope. Croprows form hundreds of small dams that slow waterand reduce soil loss up to 50 percent compared tofarming up and down a slope. Cover cropstemporarily protect the soil until the main crop isplanted. Cover crops also add organic matter, holdnitrogen, and reduce weed growth. Plant cerealgrains and legumes for winter cover crops.Buckwheat is a good summer cover crop.Crop rotation changes crops each year in acertain order. A rotation that includes grasses,legumes, or small grains will break pest cycles and

PROTECTING YOUR LAND FROM EROSION - TIPS FOR SMALL ACREAGES IN OREGON

reduce erosion compared to continuous row crops thatmay build up pest populations and leave soil open toerosion.Erosion control structure drops water safely to alower elevation. Rock, metal, or concrete structurespermanently protect thesoil from forming gullies.The structure takes theerosive force of the waterand can reduce theremaining slope. Usethis practice as a lastresort because of thedesign and constructionexpense.Grassed waterway is aflat-bottomed channelwith grass that slows water and prevents gullies. Farmequipment can drive over gentle side slopes andwildlife can use grasses for nesting and cover.Waterways may need to be combined with rock liningsor drop structures on steep slopes.Pasture management balances livestock numbers,forage, and water for a healthy farm income and

environment. Pastures with at least 70 percent plantcover have little erosion and produce more forage. Setaside a “sacrifice area” where animals are held toprotect pastures when soils are wet or plants arerecovering from grazing. For more information, seethe fact sheet Managing Pastures available fromEast Multnomah SWCD at (503) 222-7645.Special plantings in critical areas protectespecially erosive areas with special plantings. Thiserosion measure combines plants, fertilizer, and mulchto protect areas such as construction sites, road banks,and steep slopes. Here’s a typical recommendation:1. Plants - Use plants native to your area whenever

possible. Native plants are adapted to localconditions and are more drought-tolerant, pest-resistant, and lower maintenance than nonnativeplants. Grasses usually provide the most erosioncontrol and are planted in a mix with 10 to 50

percent legumes, forbs, and/or shrubbyspecies. A mix of 6 to 10 species can fillvoids and adapt to varying conditions. Treesreinforce slopes at greater depths, but don’twork as well for surface erosion. Combinetrees with slow-growing grasses or add treesafter area is stabilized. Plant shrubs 2 to 5feet apart and trees at 6 to 10 feet apart.

2. Site preparation - This can make or breaka planting. If possible, spread 4 to 6 inchesof topsoil over site. A smooth surface isneeded if the area is for a grassed waterwayor to be mowed. Otherwise, a rough surfacewill work for broadcast or hydroseeding.Fertilize according to a soil test or apply 10pounds of 10-10-10 per 1,000 square feet.Mulch grass plantings with 2 bales of strawper 1,000 square feet. Water as needed untilgrass is 2 inches tall. Mulch shrub and treeplantings with leaves, bark dust, or compost.

Terraces are long, low dikes of earth thatfollow the contour of the hill. They break longslopes into shorter runs, slow runoff, and trapsediment. If terraces aren’t practical, considerplanting 1-foot strips of stiff, perennial plantsthat are perpendicular to the slope of the landwith the same spacing as terraces.Wind barriers are strips of grass, shrubs, ortrees that slow wind. Grass barriers are 1 to



2 rows of tall grass planted perpendicular tothe wind to protect crops, provide wildlife foodand cover, and trap snow. The strips should beplanted no more than 10 to 12 times the grassheight for maximum effectiveness.Windbreaks are tree or shrub rows that slowwind, manage snow, protect livestock, andprovide wildlife habitat. Windbreaks arespaced at intervals of 5 to 20 times the heightof each windbreak and perpendicular to theprevailing winds.



Construction Sites That Are Watershed-FriendlySediment is the number one

pollutant in surface water. Theaverage homesite construction canlose from 100 to 500 tons of soil peracre per year. This is a rate 100 timesmore than cropland erosion and 2,000times more than woodland erosion!You will have healthy plants andhappy neighbors, if you keep topsoil onsite. Here are seven steps to controlerosion on construction sites:

Step 1. Schedule constructionactivities during the dry season.Dry soils keep soil compaction, mud,and water runoff to a minimum.Septic systems installed inuncompacted soils will functionproperly. However, you may need tocontrol wind erosion and irrigateplantings.

Step 2. Flag or fence off areas to beprotected.Protect areas such as:

Septic system locations. Avoidparking or running heavy equipmentover this area. Compaction can ruina septic site.Steep slopes. Avoid disturbing steepslopes that can be extremely erosive.Use dikes or ditches to divert wateraway from steep slopes anddisturbed areas. Protect diversionchannels with grass, rock rip rap orcheck dams.Trees and their dripline areas. Treesincrease property values. Protecttree roots by fencing off an area 2 to3 times the width of the branches.Equipment can tear tree roots andearth fill suffocates roots. For details,see Preventing Construction Damageto Trees (G6885), University ofMissouri Extension Service atwebsite muextension.missouri.edu/xplor/agguides/hort/g06885.htm.

Step 3. Use erosion measuresaround the site perimeter.Before construction begins, identifyand install erosion controls whereeroded soils could leave the site. Check

with your local land developmentdepartment for requirements in yourarea. Examples of measures to installare:

Plant buffers. On slopes less than 6percent, preserve a 20- to 30-footwide buffer of vegetation around theperimeter of the property. This willslow sediment from leaving the site.Silt fences. Use silt fencing on thedownslope perimeter of the site.Gravel drive. Restrict traffic to agravel entry. This will keep soil fromsticking to tires and washing intothe street.Storm sewer inlets (if present).Protect storm drains with gravel-filled, geotextile bags, straw bales, orother materials that trap sedimentwhile allowing water to passthrough.

Step 4. Prepare site forconstruction.Disturb as little vegetation aspossible. Remove topsoil (typically top6 to 8 inches) and stockpile separatefrom the subsoil. Plant grass on soilstockpiles or place a silt fence aroundstockpiles to prevent erosion. Locatestockpiles away from drainage areas.

Step 5. Maintain erosion control.Inspect installed measures at leasttwice a week and after storm events.Make needed repairs and clean up soiltracked or washed off-site. Whengutters and downspouts are installed,consider using downspout extendersto safely carry roof water pastdisturbed ground.

Step 6. Replant construction site.Redistribute topsoil 4 to 6 inches overthe site. Final grading should slopewater away from buildings and intodrainage swales. Seed, fertilize, andmulch or sod bare areas. Water untilgrass is 2 inches tall.

Step 7. Remove temporary erosioncontrol measures when thevegetation is established.

ForHelpForHelp

Soil and waterconservation districts(SWCD’s) and the USDANatural ResourcesConservation Servicemay provide technicaladvice on soil erosionmeasures on cropland,pasture, and forest.Contact EastMultnomah SWCD at(503) 222-7645 or WestMultnomah SWCD at(503) 238-4775 orPortland USDA office at(503) 326-3941.Local buildingdepartments mayprovide specificationsfor erosion control onconstruction sites.Before construction,contact MultnomahCounty Land Use at(503) 988-3043.For building issuesin East MultnomahCounty, contact Cityof Gresham BuildingDepartment at(503) 618-2832.In West MultnomahCounty, contactPortland BuildingBureau at(503) 823-7310.

Construction site beforeerosion control

Construction site aftererosion control




FactSheetFactSheet

Protecting Streambanksfrom ErosionTips for Small Acreages in Oregon

“Mankind'sstrength andultimate survivaldepends not uponan ability tomanipulate andcontrol, but on anability toharmonize withnature.”

– Rolling Thunder

How Streams Behave — or Misbehavestreams were channeled to movewater quickly through flood-prone orerosive areas. But instead of solvinga problem, it only moved the problemdownstream with even greater force.

Streams are complex. In mostsituations, you should work with aprofessional to repair your streambank,so you don’t throw money down the“drain.” Read on for some guidelines toget you started.

Identifying Your StreambankErosion Problem

The first step is to discover thecause of streambank erosion on yourproperty. Here are three commoncauses:

Force of the stream.Occurs at high water and is the majorcause of bank erosion. Solutions for thissituation are addressed in the factsheet.

Ground water seepage.Occurs at low water. Groundwaterleaves the bank face and causes bankfailure at the seepage point. Can alsooccur when floodwaters recede and thesaturated bank collapses. This is acommon problem in banks with finesoils. (This situation is not addressedhere; consult a professional.)

Surface runoff.Occurs during high runoff periods fromrain, snowmelt, or flooding.Concentrated water flowing over thebank causes gullies. Often found nextto roads, sidewalks, and parking lots.Can also occur when floodwaters re-enter a stream channel and causefailure in riprap structures. (Thissituation is not addressed here; consulta professional.)

Degraded streambank.

Streambank withvegetative buffer.



Streambank erosion is natural.Some erosion is needed to supply gravelbeds and inside point bars on rivercurves. But too much erosion canpollute water supplies, cover fishhabitat, and threaten property.

When a stream is healthy, itbalances water flow, the sediment itcan carry, and its shape and energy(the same energy used in hydroelectricdams). Flowing water tends to movefrom side to side as seen in meanderingstreams. Stream meanders and plantsgrowing along the banks reduce theerosive energy of a stream and trapsediment.

Any change in the watershedfeeding the stream, in the floodplain, orin the stream itself can upset thisdelicate balance. The three majorcauses for increased streambankerosion are:

Land use change. When we buildhouses, sidewalks, and roads oversoil, we reduce the amount of waterthat can enter the ground.Consequently, water runs off faster,at higher temperatures, and withmore erosive energy into streams.Streams become “flashy,” erosive,and flood-prone. When we removetrees and vegetation next to a streamand allow livestock to trample banks,this exposes the soil. As a result,streambanks may erode more rapidlyand slump into the water.Dams. When we build dams, thedams trap sediment and change theamount of sediment and energy inthe stream below. Streams mustmove sediment, so the stream looksfor a new source—the banks!Straightening streams. When westraighten a winding stream, weremove the meanders that reduce theerosive power of water. In the past,

A Natural Solution: Soil BioengineeringSoil bioengineering is a practice that uses

plants alone or in combination with hardstructures to stabilize streambanks. Hardstructures armor the bank, but have hardsurfaces that may increase erosion downstreamand provide little wildlife habitat. When rock,roots, or log structures are combined withshrubs and trees, the plants hold the soil, slowwater, filter pollutants, and provide food andcover for fish and wildlife.

Bioengineering requires hand labor, plantingduring the growing season, and protection fromanimals, disease, and insects. Plants may takeseveral years to become fully effective and cannotcorrect landslides. Soil bioengineering practicesinclude brush mattresses, livestaking, log-wingdeflectors, and planting shrubs with half-bankriprap.

Plant Materials for BioengineeringTo select the right plants for your

bioengineering project, note what native plantcommunities grow in your area. Avoid plantingnoxious or invasive grasses such as reed canarygrass or ryegrass. Remove invasive plants suchas yellow starthistle, English ivy, deadlynightshade, field morning glory, scotch broom,cheatgrass, and purple loosestrife. Use more ofthe same native plants in your bioengineeringdesign, as these plants are most likely adapted toconditions to the area. Plants like willow, redosier dogwood, alder, ash, and cottonwoodhave the right stuff for bioengineering. Theyestablish easily, grow quickly, and have thickroot systems.

You can buy willow and dogwoodcuttings from native plant nurseries. Or collectcuttings next to the project site, if the area iswell vegetated. Other prime collection areasinclude ditches, abandoned fields, or utility right-of-ways. Do not take rooted native plants fromthe wild. This practice is unethical and survivalis very low. One exception to this is rescuingrooted plants from construction sites. Be sure toget collection permission from property owners.

An example of how to plant willow cuttings isshown here. For information on planting andestablishing native plants, see the agencies listedunder “For Help.” For information specific to theWillamette Valley, see the Guide for UsingWillamette Valley Native Plants Along YourStream, Linn Soil and Water ConservationDistrict publication, (541) 926-2483.

1. If soil is too hard fordirect cuttingplacement, use aplanting bar to create ahole. Make hole halfthe length of thecutting.

2. Insert willow cuttingto the bottom of thehole.

3. Re-insert theplanting bar adjacentto first hole and movebar toward willowcutting to close hole.

4. Water thoroughly.

5. Watch your willowsgrow and flourish.

Cowlitz Conservation District

PROTECTING STREAMBANKS FROM EROSION - TIPS FOR SMALL ACREAGES IN OREGON

Protect Your Streambank “Toes”Severe bank erosion almost always requires protecting the “toe” of the

streambank. The toe lies at the bottom of slope and supports the weight of thebank. When water undermines the toe, the bank collapses. You can protect thestreambank toe by using rock riprap, logs, and rockbarbs combined with plants. One soil bioengineeringexample is shown here using rock riprap at the toeand live stakes on the slope. Protect the bare soilbetween structures with native grasses, sedges, andrushes. Sprig plantings, grass seedings, orerosion blankets may be needed to prevent erosionuntil shrubs and trees establish themselves. Formore information on soil bioengineering, see yourpermitting agency or look up the following:

Streambank and Shoreline Protection, Chapter 16,Engineering Field Handbook, USDA NaturalResources Conservation Service, http://www.info.usda.gov/CED

Stream-friendly Project TipsBefore Construction

Involve your neighbors to increase project successGet the necessary permitsFlag and avoid disturbing wetlandsPreserve existing native trees and shrubsCut trees and shrubs rather than ripping them outof the ground (many may resprout)Make a plan to replant disturbed areas and usenative plantsInstall sediment-control practices (e.g., cofferdams)

During ConstructionStockpile fertile topsoil for later use for plantsUse hand equipment rather than heavy equipmentIf using heavy equipment, use wide-tracks orrubberized tiresWork from the streambank, preferably on thehigher, non-wetland sideAvoid instream work except as authorized by theOregon Department of Fisheries and WildlifeStay 100 feet away from water when refueling oradding oilAvoid using wood treated with creosote or coppercompounds

After ConstructionKeep out people and livestock during plantestablishmentCheck project after high flowsWater plants during droughtsControl grass until trees and shrubs overtop grass,usually two to three years

Cowlitz Conservation District

Streambank Stabilization Practices: Pros, Cons, and Costs

Change ManagementMake grazing and cropping changesthat allow streamside plants to recover(e.g., fence out livestock or install abuffer that produces income).

Easiest toimplement; naturalrecovery; diverseopportunities.

Results take time;may need long-termchange in land use.

*Costs are for comparison only and will vary depending on the situation.Adapted from the Montana Stream Management Guide, Montana Department of Environmental Quality.

Low to moderatecost.

Common Channel Shapes

CostPractice Advantages Disadvantages

Replant Streamside AreaPlant native shrubs and trees;reintroduce native grasses, rushes, andsedges.

Can be done withhand labor; has anatural, attractivelook; increaseswildlife habitat.

High labor needs;results take time;need streamsideexpertise; mayrequire long-termchange in land use.

Low to moderatecost (if labor isvolunteered),$0.50-$10/foot.

Reshape Streamside SlopeFor slope stability, cut slope back to aminimum of 1 foot fall for every 2 foot inlength (a 5:1 sideslope is best), reseed orcover with erosion blankets, replantwith native shrubs and trees.

High chance ofsuccess; recovery ofstreamside habitat.

Requires design andinstallation expertise,heavy equipment, andlabor; loss of existingvegetation.

Moderate tohigh cost,$10-$100/foot.

Install Soil BioengineeringUse bundles of brush, roots, or trees tocover banks. May include rock or otherhard structures.

Uses naturalmaterials; easy toinstall; mayincrease propertyvalues.

High labor costs; maynot be adequate instreams with highflows; results taketime.

Moderate cost,$5-$25/foot.

Install Jetties or BarbsRedirect water from banks with jettiesor barbs.

When welldesigned, provideslong-term stability;uses less rock thanriprap; providespool habitat for fish.

Difficult to design andinstall; may cause newproblems acrossstream ordownstream.

Moderate to highcost, $100-$1000per structure.

Use Riprap or GabionsCover banks with rocks and bouldersalone (riprap) or with filled rock cages(gabions). Gabions are used on steepstreambanks that can't be sloped back.

Very stable banks;may enhancehabitat by addinglogs and/or liveplants.

Loss of streamsidehabitat; may increaseerosion downstream;unnatural appearance.

Moderate to highcost, $40-$60/foot.

Quickest recoveryto full potential;replaces allfunctions.

Move Stream to Original ChannelRelocate to restore natural functions ofstream. Extreme measure that requirescareful planning.

High cost; must useprofessionalconsultants.

Moderate to highcost, $10-$70/foot.

Montana Stream Management Guide

PROTECTING STREAMBANKS FROM EROSION - TIPS FOR SMALL ACREAGES IN OREGON

The Permits You’ll NeedIf you are working in or around water, you will probably need a permit from a local, state, and/or federal

agency. Use this diagram to find out where your project will take place and what permits you may need. TheState of Oregon and other permitting agencies prefer bioengineering practices to those that are solely rock orother hard structures. Since every situation is different, you may need to contact more agencies than thoselisted. Hint: to avoid migrating fish, the construction period for most stream work is permitted from July 1 toSeptember 15 (or September 30 depending on the stream). Begin the permit process well ahead ofconstruction time since the process can take a year or longer. See Filling Out a Project Permit, for moreinformation.

Using this diagram, determine where your activity will occur. The letters refer to the permits listed below.

Permit Government Agency Phone

A. Removal or Fill Law.................................... Or. Dept. of State Lands*........................... 503-378-3805(For projects that dredge or fill more than 50 cubic yards in state waters)

B. Water Quality Certification...... ................. Or. Dept. of Environmental Quality.......... 503-229-5263(For projects regulated under the Federal Clean Water Act 404)

C. Water Rights.......................... ..................... Or. Water Resources Dept.......................... 503-986-0900(For projects that take or use surface water or groundwater)

D. Coastal Zone Certification.......................... Or. Dept. of Land Cons. And Dev.............. 503-373-0096(For projects that are west of the crest of the Oregon coast range)

E. Fed. Clean Water Act (404)....... ................. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers*.................. 503-808-4373(For projects that dredge or fill more than 50 cubic yards in state waters)

F. Fed. Rivers & Harbors Act (10).................. U.S. Army Corps of Engineers*.................. 503-808-4373(For projects in navigable waters of the U.S.)

G. Floodplain Corridor Designation . ............. Multnomah County Land Use Planning... 503-988-3043(For projects in the floodplain)

H. Other laws may apply...................... ........... Various agencies.............................. ........... Various numbers(For projects that depend on specific activities and locations)

* The Oregon Dept. of State Lands (DSL) and U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (COE) have a joint application to avoidduplication. Send in a signed copy to DSL and a signed copy to the COE.

A,B,C,D,E,H

A, B, C, D, E, F, H

A, B, D, E, F, H

D, G, H

Montana Association of Conservation Districts

ForHelpForHelp



Logjams:Wood is Good

In the past, woody debriswas removed from streams todrain floodplains, float timber,and allow boat traffic. Now werecognize some logjams are“good” and should be left alonebecause they have thefollowing benefits:

Provide cover for fishStabilize channels bytrapping sedimentRedirect flow to create scourpools and open gravelIncrease groundwater levels

However, woody debris canfloat downstream, collect, andcreate “bad” logjams.Hazardous logjams that are

The soil and waterconservation district(SWCD) and USDANatural ResourcesConservation Service(NCRS) may provideon-site advice andcost-share funding toplant, fence, andrepair erodingstreambanks.Contact EastMultnomah SWCD at(503) 222-7645, WestMultnomah SWCD at(503) 238-4775 orlocal NCRS office at(503) 326-3941.Private consultingengineers may obtainpermits on your behalf,design projects, andhelp you meet yourstreambank protectiongoals. Check the yellowpages in the phonebook for consultants.

causing or could cause severe flooding or severe erosion should be removed.When removing woody debris, consider these stream-friendly tips:

Work from the streambank and keep equipment out of the streamAnchor log debris to side for bank protection and aquatic habitatSalvage log debris for stream restoration projectsLeave stump and roots behind when cutting down trees that may rip outbanks

Remember! Removing woody debris from streams requires approval fromthe Oregon Department of State Lands. Other regulations may apply.

A Buffer is the Best Long-term ProtectionA streamside buffer of trees, shrubs, and grass protects land and water in

the following ways:Slows floodwatersBlocks flood debris from entering fieldsProtects banksFilters overland pollutantsProvides wildlife habitat

Buffers work! Studies show that a dense tree stand at the top of the bankcan cut down meander erosion in half. Consider preserving or planting treesand shrubs near your stream. See Managing Near Stream Buffers, Fact Sheet 4in this series, for information on designing buffers.

Do Not Install Used Construction MaterialsBroken pavement, car bodies, asphalt slabs, concrete blocks, bricks, rotting

lumber, and scrap metal are impractical to sort by type and impossible toanchor to streambanks. These materials can float downstream, leachpollutants, and lower property values with their presence. They have flat, hardsurfaces that do little to dampen the erosive power of water. Dumping many ofthese items near or in water may be illegal and result in fines.



FactSheetFactSheet

Managing StreamsideAreas with BuffersTips for Small Acreages in Oregon

“What we needed,the fish needed.”

–Alistair Bleifuss,describing a buffer

that protects hisstreambank and

improves fish habitat

The Good Life at Water’s Edge

Is Your Riparian Area Healthy?

Sparkling water and lush plants draw us to fish, swim, and live near streamsand lakes. But the choice to live and play near water comes with the responsibilityto take care of what attracted us there in the first place. Before anyone knewbetter, people “tidied up” their properties. They removed native plants and plantedpastures, crops, or lawns up to the water’s edge. Now we know that a good mix oftrees, shrubs, and grasses next to the water bring a wealth of benefits to thelandowner and all who live downstream. Near stream areas can provide flood anderosion control, wildlife habitat, and higher property values. Read on to learn howto protect your environmental and real estate investment.

A riparian area is the land next tolakes, streams, and wetlands. It has ahigh water table, occasional flooding,and many valuable benefits (see nextpage). Signs of an unhealthy riparianarea include:

Raw banks erode and fall into thestream.Water is not shaded and heats up insun.Streambanks are wide and shallowfrom livestock trampling.Severe grazing leaves few desirabletrees, shrubs or grasses.Stream gravel is covered withsediment.Noxious weeds invade area and leaveno habitat for fish and wildlife.Groomed landscape adds runoff withfertilizers, pesticides, and soil to thestream.

A riparian buffer is an area next towater that cushions the negativeimpacts that land and water may haveon each other. It is often made up oftrees, shrubs, and grasses. Examples ofa healthy riparian buffer include (levelsfor good fish habitat are inparenthesis):

Trees, shrubs, grasses, sedges, andrushes stabilize banks (80 percent ormore of bank area). Mary Myers, Media Works

Overhanging trees and shrubs shadewater (50 percent or more of bankarea).Animals are fenced off fragile banks.Livestock graze forage and drinkclean water in upland pasture.Stream gravel is free of sediment (85percent or more of bottom).Native plants and non-invasiveexotic plants provide a diversehabitat for wildlife.Buffer with trees, shrubs, and grassfilters upland runoff.

Benefits of Riparian Buffers

Montana Dept. of Natural Resources and Conservation

TreeHigh

Low

Low

Medium

High

Low

High

Medium

High

High

Adapted from How to Design a Riparian Buffer for Agricultural Land (AFN-4),USDA National Agroforestry Center.

A riparian buffer works for you in alot of ways you can’t immediately see.The following list describe the benefitsof a buffer in detail:

Traps eroded soils.USDA reports that up to 64 percent ofthe sediment found in streams comesfrom cropland, pasture, and range.Eroded soils cloud the water, suffocatefish eggs, and scratch the delicate gills

ShrubBenefit Grass

Relative Advantages of Different Riparian Plant Types

Stabilizes bank erosion

Traps sediment

Filters nutrients, pesticides, and bacteria

Attached to sediment

Dissolved in water

Provides in-stream habitat

Provides wildlife habitat

Grassland wildlife

Forest wildlife

Economic products

Attractive landscape

Flood protection

Low

High

High

Medium

Low

High

Low

Medium

Low

Low

High

Low

Low

Low

Medium

Medium

Medium

Low

Medium

Medium

What is a Riparian Area?

of fish. Sediment fills streams andpushes floodwaters out of banks. Agrass buffer can stop up to 70 percent ofthe soil from entering a stream.

Treats land runoff.Overland runoff and drainage tile cancarry fertilizers and pesticides directlyinto streams and lakes. Buffers are“last chance stops” where thesepollutants are broken down by plantsand soil microbes before pollutants canenter streams. Tree and grass buffersremove up to 50 percent of the nitrateand phosphorus in water that mightotherwise pollute a stream.

Holds down flood damage.Trees and shrubs block floating debrisfrom washing onto upland areas. Forestand shrub buffers have stems that slowwater and roots that hold soil in place.Grasses, sedges, and rushes reduce soilerosion and increase the amount ofwater entering soil. Riparian areas withtrees generally experience less damagethan those planted to grass or crops.

Increases stream flows in summer.Forest buffer soils take in water up to15 times faster than pasture orcropland soils. This “buffer sponge” hastremendous water storage capacity andslowly releases water to add to summerflows.

Provides food for the biggest fish.Overhanging trees and shrubs dropleaves, twigs, and insects into the waterand become food sources for aquaticinsects. The aquatic insects are eatenby small fish, which are eaten by biggerfish, and so on up the food chain. Treesfall into the stream and provide logshelters for fish. Small, well-shadedstreams can supply up to 75 percent ofthe food base for an entire river systemfrom the headwaters to an oceanestuary.

Creates habitat for wildlife.Small animals come down to drink, eat,shelter, and hide in the green curvesnext to water. Larger animals travelthe cool corridors that connect onehabitat area to another. In eastern andwestern Oregon, 74 percent and 94percent of the land animals depend onriparian zones, respectively.

INSTALLING A STREAMSIDE BUFFER - TIPS FOR SMALL ACREAGES IN OREGON

How to Design a Riparian BufferOne example of a buffer design that provides many benefits follows. It

combines 50 feet of trees, shrubs, and grasses planted next to the stream. Thisdesign requires 6 acres of land per stream mile (or 12 acres per stream mile, ifinstalled on both sides of the stream).

1) Streamside zone - 20 feet / 2 to 3 tree or shrub rows(measured from the top of streambank). Treesprotect the streambank, slow floodwaters, and takeup nutrients. A mature riparian forest is best leftundisturbed. If a fast-growing tree buffer is needed,plant trees such as cottonwood, alder, and willow.These trees and shrubs will form quick roots forbank stability. Add conifers that will provide durablewood for fish shelters. If you are concerned about treestearing out banks as they fall, plant shrubs in thestreamside zone and trees in the middle zone. Includesedges and rushes in wet areas to increase the plantdiversity. Limit activities to recreation and flood damagecontrol. Fence livestock out.

2) Middle zone - 10 feet / 1 to 2 tree or shrub rows.Trees and shrubs slow floodwaters, take up nutrients, and provide wildlifehabitat. Here, buffer width can be increased to include the 100-year-floodplain,steep slopes, or adjacent wetlands. Limited activities are possible to produceforest products or increase recreation.

3) Near-field grass zone - 20 feet / grass strip.Grasses are the best at trapping eroded soils in runoff. This zone can include themost activities. On farmed ground, this area may be pasture or hay with propermanagement. Near homes, this area may be lawn or garden with carefulmanagement of fertilizers and pesticides. New structuresor septic systems should be excluded from this area.

Buffer widths will depend on landowner objectives, siteconditions, and local rules. Here are some examples where:

Buffer width is adjusted down.If a stable streambank is your only concern, a narrow stripof trees and shrubs is better than no buffer at all.Engineered structures may need to be added to protect thebank. If the stream meanders, width may vary to straightenout field borders. For creeks that dry up in the summer,buffer trees and shrubs won’t be needed to shade water.However, a grass buffer that filters overland flow may beuseful.

Buffer width is adjusted up.If the slope above the stream is steep, a wider buffer isneeded to adequately treat runoff. For maximum floodprotection, a buffer extending the width of the 100-year floodplain may bedesirable. If you are installing a buffer with cost-share, most programs requiregreater widths. The USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service recommendswidths from 35 to 300 feet, based on site conditions and landowner goals.

Do Small Streams Matter?You bet. Even streams that dry up in the summer, because the next hard rain

will flush pollutants in the creek bed down the river. Small streams are sensitiveand react quickly to changes in riparian areas. When added together, these feederstreams can deliver cool, clean water or a polluted punch to larger rivers. All thebenefits of riparian buffers on large rivers apply to small streams, only more so.

Estimated bufferwidths for desiredbenefits.

USDA National Agroforestry Center


ForHelpForHelp

Installing and Keeping a Buffer in Top Shape



Replanting may be needed to improve adegraded riparian area. To decide what to plant,look at what’s already growing at your site:

Keep existing native plants.Plant more of the same. These plants are mostlikely adapted to conditions from your area.Add different native plants that are adapted toyour conditions and increase diversity.Remove invasive plants such as yellowstarthistle, English ivy, deadly nightshade,field morning glory, scotch broom, cheatgrass,and purple loosestrife.Maintain the buffers. Harvest grass buffers forlivestock feed to remove nutrients trapped by

the buffer. Level eroded soils that have been trapped by the buffer. This willprovide an even water flow for good filtration. Control grass that overtops treeand shrub seedlings for at least 3 years. Protect woody seedlings from mice,rabbits, nutria, or beaver.Grow native plants from seed or cuttings (willows and dogwood) or buy plantsfrom nurseries. Do not take rooted native plants from the wild. This practicedestroys wild plant communities and survival is very low. One exception to thisis rescuing plants from construction sites with landowner permission. Forinformation specific to the Willamette Valley, see the Guide for UsingWillamette Valley Native Plants Along Your Stream, Linn Soil and WaterConservation District, (541) 926-2483.

Meeting Buffer Costs, Making Buffers PaySome landowners worry about the cost of installing buffers and losing

productive land. It’s a reasonable concern. To defray costs, some landownersproduce saleable products from their buffers. These products include hay, sawtimber, chip material for pulp, nuts, berries, and hunting rights. Others havefound that greenbelts and wildlife areas increase the property sale values by 10 to20 percent. Landowners have also used cost-share programs and reduced propertytaxes when installing buffers. For more information, see the listed agencies underFor Help.

Your local soil and water conservation district (East Multnomah SWCD at(503) 222-7645 or West Multnomah SWCD at (503) 238-4775) or USDA NaturalResources Conservation Service at (503) 326-3941 can provide on-site technicaladvice to create, enhance, and protect riparian areas through several cost-shareprograms.The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service’s Partners For Wildlife Private Lands andJobs in the Woods Programs fund projects that create, enhance, or restoreriparian areas and wetlands.The Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife administers the Riparian LandsTax Exemption program that provides tax incentives to preserve riparian areas.Commercial nurseries, the Oregon Department of Forestry, and your local soiland water conservation district may sell native trees, shrubs, and grasses.The local Extension Service office or the Oregon Department of AgricultureNoxious Weed Program at (503) 986-4621 may provide recommendations onremoving weeds

UW Extension Service

FactSheetFactSheet


Before You Buy: Wells, SepticSystems, and a Healthy HomesiteTips for Small Acreages in Oregon

“Your best place (tolive) is one that suitsyour clothes,encourages yourlifestyle, and makesyou smile a lot.”– Gene GeRue, How to

Find Your IdealCountry Home

To Buy or Not to Buy

Floodplains and WetlandsFloodplains provide “relief valves”

that reduce flood damage. Wetlandsfilter pollutants, provide wildlifehabitat, and recharge groundwater. Soit’s not surprising that these valuableareas are protected from most buildingactivities. In many situations you willnot be able to drain or fill a wetland orbuild in the floodplain. Look for thelocation of wetlands on a NationalWetlands Resource InventoryMap published by the U.S. Fish andWildlife Service. Floodplain locationsmay be found on a FederalEmergency Management Agency(FEMA) Floodplain Map. Cost-share funds and tax benefits areavailable to enhance wetlands andstreamside areas for wildlife habitat.Maps and funding information areavailable at your local soil and waterconservation district and USDANatural Resources ConservationService office.

The Right to FarmIt’s peaceful and quiet in the

country. That is, until your neighborfires up the tractor and needs toharvest at night. You may live next tofarmers whose livelihoods depend ongrowing crops and livestock. Don’tbe surprised if farm activitiesbring noise, chemical sprays,dust, and odors. Use this as anopportunity to understand whatit takes to produce food and fiber.Many counties have “right tofarm” laws that protect the farmer’sright to use normal farming activities.

Soil Survey SavvyA soil survey is a good place to

start in choosing the right property.You can use a soil survey to find outwhether land has the right soils forhouse foundations, septic systems,crops, or wildlife ponds. Soilsurveys are only accurate to a 5-acrearea, so it’s important to get aprofessional to conduct an on-siteinvestigation for building and septicsystem suitability.

You can do a preliminaryinvestigation, just by looking at soilcolor. Dig a hole and look at each soillayer. Bright brown, red, and yellowcolors indicate well-drained soilsthat may be suitable for septic systemsor building sites. Gray soils or graysoils with mottled “rust spots” indicatepoorly drained soils that may begood for ponds. Gray or mottled soilsmay be dry during the summer, butare often saturated during the winter.Vegetation may also indicate soildrainage.

Assessing Steep SlopesA soil survey has information on

land slope and its suitability forbuildings and septic systems. Avoidbuilding on steep slopes. Building andplacing fill at the top of a slope,making road cuts, removingvegetation, and changing waterdrainage may cause erosion orlandslides on steep slopes. If you see“J-shaped” trunks on trees on a site,beware. This indicates that trees areslowly adjusting to a slumping slope.Look elsewhere for a stable home site.


Construction limitationsare based on soilproperties and sitefeatures:Slight:Soil limitations areminor and easilyovercome.Moderate:Special planning, design,or maintenance is neededto overcome or minimizelimitations.Severe:Special design,significant increase inconstruction costs, andpossibly increasedmaintenance arerequired.

The ideal country home provides fresh air, productive soils, and clean water.Many people look for homes based on location, view, and house style. Ruralhome seekers must do more. In the absence of city utilities, buyers must choose aproperty that can provide the basic needs: drinking water, sewage treatment,and other considerations.

Select a good location.Septic systems need gently sloping, moderately well-drained ground. Avoid areaswith seasonally high water tables, floodplains, slopes steeper than 15 percent,and fractured bedrock. Locate the septic system downslope from existing orplanned wells.

Find the right soils.A soil survey may indicate a promising site. However, you will need to have apercolation test done to determine how fast soils can absorb septic liquids.

Determine the proper setbacks.Decide whether a house, well, septic system, and the appropriate setbacks will fiton the property. Is there room for two septic systems—one for immediate use andthe other for replacement in the future? A well must be located at least 50 feetfrom a septic system and 100 feet from a drainfield. Work with your permittingofficial to determine the setbacks needed from septic systems, buildings, propertylines, cliffs, streams, and water lines.

Decide on the type of septic system needed.If the site investigation indicates poor soils for a conventional septic system, youmay be able to use an alternative system. Alternative systems are usually moreexpensive and may require special maintenance and approval.

Include a contingency clause in the contract of sale.If possible, make the purchase dependent upon finding suitable soils for a septicsystem.

Septic Systems: Checking an Existing OneAsk when the septic tank was last pumped.Tanks should be pumped every 1 to 5 years depending on the household andsoils. Check the age of the septic system. Up to 50 percent of all septic systemsfail within 25 years. However, some systems that were installed in the 1930’shave been well maintained and are still working.

Check how fast toilets and sinks drain.Toilets and sinks that drain slowly may indicate a waterlogged or clogged septicsystem. Such systems often need to be pumped or replaced.

Find the location of the septic tank and drainfield.The areas should not be unusually lush, smelly, green, or wet with seepingsewage. These are signs of a failing septic system that may need to be replaced.

Before buying undevelopedproperty, you should contact thelocal official for septic systempermits. Don’t overlook thisessential step! The septic systemsite will determine the location ofthe house, well, and otherinstallations. The septic systempermitting official may be foundat your local department ofplanning, building, communitydevelopment, or public health, orat the regional Oregon Depart–ment of Environmental Quality.Work with the septic system-permitting official to:

Septic Systems: Installing a New One

Oregon Dept. of Agriculture

BEFORE YOU BUY: WELLS, SEPTIC SYSTEMS, AND A HEALTHY HOMESITE - TIPS FOR SMALL ACREAGES IN OREGON

Wells: Installing a New OneIf you are looking at property without

a well, get a drilling estimate from alicensed well driller. Also, consider thefollowing to protect your future well:

Locate the well upslope and awayfrom pollution sources.When a well is polluted, the cause isusually located at or very near the well.Avoid placing a well in a depression,drainage, or flood-prone area that mayadd polluted runoff to the well. The wellshould be located at least 50 feet from the septic tank and 100 feet from thedrainfield. The well should also have minimum setbacks from fertilizer andpesticide storage, livestock yards and buildings, and manure piles.

Install a proper well.A well is a direct pipeline from the soil surface to the groundwater. Pollutantsmost often enter wells through a poor seal at the top of the casing, inadequatecasing grout, or a failure to disinfect the well after construction. Get a reputabledriller and follow Oregon guidelines for well installation.

Prevent backflow into the well.During a power failure, most wells have a single check valve to stop the watercolumn from falling back into the well. If the valve leaks (and many do), waterflows back into the well and creates suction. Avoid sucking pollutants into yourwell by installing simple vacuum breakers on faucets and heavy-duty valves onlawn-sprinkling and irrigation systems.

Wells: Checking an Existing OneMore than 500,000 Oregonians get their drinking water from private wells. If

you are considering a home with an existing well, here are some things to askabout:

Recent well test.When a home is sold or transferred, Oregon regulations require homeowners totest domestic well water for nitrate and coliform bacteria. If the test results aresatisfactory, taste the water. The water will likely taste different because wellsare not chlorinated and have different mineral contents. If you notice an “off”taste, stained fixtures, or lead or copper pipes in the home, you may want torequest additional tests.

Well report and pumping rate.Your local watermaster may have a record of the well depth and the conditionsat installation. A domestic well should produce a minimum of 5 gallons perminute (gpm) for a three-bedroom home, but 10 gpm is better. Lower flow ratesmay be acceptable if water can be stored (e.g., in a pressure tank). Note anychanges in water pressure when you run a faucet and flush the toilet at the sametime.

Well house inspection.Check the well house and note cleanliness, the casing condition, and proximity topotential pollution sources. The well should be located at least 50 feet from theseptic tank and 100 feet from the drainfield. Fertilizers, pesticides, fuel storagetanks, and animals should be located away from the well house.

Abandoned wells.Determine whether there are any abandoned or unused wells on the property.Abandoned wells that are susceptible to pollution need to be properly sealed.

Washington State University Extension Service

Oregon State UniversityExtension Service

The City of Port-land provides septicsystem or sanita-tion permits forMultnomah Countyresidents. ContactCity of Portland at(503) 823-7790.Oregon WaterResources Depart-ment (WRD) andOregon HealthDivision (OHD)have well informa-tion and installa-tion guidelines.Contact WRD at(503) 986-0900and OHD at(971) 673-0400.The soil and waterconservationdistrict (SWCD)and USDA NaturalResources Conser-vation Service havesoil surveys, theNational WetlandsInventory, andfloodplain informa-tion. Contact EastMultnomah SWCDat (503) 222-7645 orWest MultnomahSWCD at(503) 238-4775.



Who to ContactWhat You Need to Know as a Rural Landowner

ForHelpForHelp


Buried Utilities - Oregon law requires that younotify utility companies no less than 2 days andno more than 10 days before you start to dig.

Oregon Utility Notification Center(800) 332-2344

Floodplain Protection - Permits may berequired for work within a 100-year floodplain.Insurance and financing may be restricted.

Multnomah County Land Use Planning(503) 988-3043

Building Codes and Permits – Before building,contact your city or county planning departmentfor zoning requirements and permits.

In East Multnomah County, contact City ofGresham Building Dept. at (503) 618-2832.In West Multnomah County, contact PortlandBuilding Bureau at (503) 823-7310.

Forest Practices - Oregon regulations requirethat you notify ODF at least 15 days before youbegin any forest activities. After harvest, treesmust be replanted.

Oregon Dept. of Forestry(503) 945-7470

Streambank and Wetland Protection -Permits are required to fill, drain, or dredge waterareas (including wetlands) and to modify streamchannels, streambanks, or wetlands. A waterright is needed to construct a pond.

Local soil and water conservation districtUSDA Natural Resources ConservationService (503) 414-3200Oregon Division of State Lands (503) 378-3805U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (503) 808-4373

Trash Recycling and Disposal - Locatelicensed landfills, private trash disposalcompanies, and recycling centers. Burning orburying household trash on private land is notallowed.

Recycling centersLocal garbage disposal companiesLicensed landfillsOregon Dept. of Environmental Quality(800) 452-4011

Water Quality - You are responsible formanaging manure, erosion, pesticides, fertilizers,irrigation, and near stream areas to protectsurface water and groundwater quality. Rules foryour watershed are either in effect or will bedeveloped under Oregon Senate Bill 1010.

Local soil and water conservation districts:East Multnomah SWCD at (503) 222-7645 orWest Multnomah SWCD at (503) 238-4775USDA Natural Resource ConservationService (503) 414-3200OSU Extension ServiceLocal watershed councilMultnomah County EnvironmentalCompliance (503) 988-5050ODA Natural Resources Division(503) 986-4700Oregon Dept. of Environmental Quality(503) 229-5279

Water Rights - A permit is needed forcommercial or industrial uses of more than 5,000gallons of water per day, more than 1 acreirrigated, and ponds.

Oregon Water Resources Dept.(503) 986-0900

Weed Control - You may need an applicator’slicense for some pesticides. Eradicate noxiousweeds that crowd out forage and destroy wildlifehabitat.

Oregon Dept. of Agriculture Noxious WeedControl (503) 986-4621

Wells - Wells need to be registered with the localwatermaster and constructed to Oregon WaterWell Construction Standards.

Local watermaster (503) 722-1410Oregon Water Resources Department(503) 986-0900Oregon Dept. of Human Services, DrinkingWater Program, (971) 673-0405

Wildlife Protection and Endangered Species- The law protects threatened and endangeredspecies. Your land management may be affected ifthese species are present.

Local Audubon Society ChapterOregon Dept. of Fish and Wildlife(503) 657-2000 Ext. 231U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service (503) 231-6179National Marine Fisheries Service(503) 230-5425

Open Burning - Permits may be required insensitive airsheds. Bans occur during fire hazardor air pollution periods.

Local fire districtOregon Dept. of Forestry (timber slash)(503) 945-7470East of Sandy River (503) 695-2225West of Sandy River (503) 618-3084

FactSheetFactSheet


Tips for Small Acreages in Oregon

“The long fight tosave wild beautyrepresentsdemocracy at itsbest. It requirescitizens to practicethe hardest ofvirtues—selfrestraint.”

– Edwin Way Teale

Filling Out a Project Permit

What Is a Permit?A permit gives you formal permission

to begin construction on a project. Itmeans the permitting agency has foundthat the project plan meets the agency’sregulations. This fact sheet focuses onpermits required for projects that involveOregon’s waters.

Why Do I Need a Permit?In the past, people were unaware

that some construction projects did moreharm than good. For example, entirestreambanks were armored with rock toprotect them from erosion. However,since rock does not reduce the erosivepower of water, the rock only passed theerosion problem downstream andprovided little fish habitat. Morelandowners are installing projects thatprotect the many values of the land. Bylaw, many water projects require apermit. A permit protects you, yourcommunity, and the environment fromunintended conflicts with watershedhealth goals.

When Do I Need a Permit?Chances are you will need approval

or a permit if the project involves water.Most projects that involve construction,excavation, or fill in streams, rivers,lakes, wetlands, or the ocean require apermit. Activities that may require apermit include:

Dredging or excavatingRelocating a waterwayDraining, clearing, or leveling wetlandsRemoving woody debris or gravelPlacing fill, riprap, or other materialConstructing bank or shore protectionPlacing fill to construct a dam, dike,roadway, or bridgeConstructing a dock, pier, wharf,seawall, boat ramp, beach, intake, oroutfall pipe

What Is a Wetland?Most people recognize that

swamps, marshes, and bottomlandforests are wetlands. However, somewetlands can be hard to spot. A wetpasture full of “tules” could be awetland. When in doubt, check it outwith a wetland specialist. The USDANatural Resources ConservationService makes wetlanddeterminations on farmland.Wetlands are areas that have thesethree conditions:1. Water either covers or saturates

the soil during the growing season.(Caution! Many wetlands do nothave standing water orwaterlogged soils during at leastpart of the growing season.)

2. Plants that can grow in saturatedsoils for at least part of the growingseason. Examples of such plantsare rushes, sedges, cattails, andwillows.

3. Soils that have developed underwaterlogged conditions. Signs ofwaterlogged soils include peat ormuck layers, a bluish-gray or graycolor, sandy layers with darkstreaks, or a rotten-egg odor.

Wetlands can filter pollutedrunoff, reduce flood damage,protect banks fromerosion, provide wildlifehabitat, and enhanceour quality of life.Agencies andlandowners givewetlands specialattention becauseof these values.



A Checklist for Getting and Using PermitsThe permitting process begins with you.

Remember to contact all of the appropriate local,state, and federal agencies that may have aninterest in your project. On some projects, aconsultant may obtain permits on your behalf.However, you are ultimately responsible for gettingthe necessary permits and making sure that thepermit requirements are met. Tips to help yousave time and money are in italics.

Step 1 - Find Out What Permits May ApplyA. Determine if the project involves adjoining

landowners. If it does, ask your neighbors if theyshare similar goals and support the project. Astreambank project may include severallandowners.

B. Ask local, state, and federal agencies to help youdetermine what permits apply to your project.Some agencies have their own checklists forgetting a permit. (See the last page for a list ofagencies.)

C. Decide whether the project is regulated by theagencies. Confirm your conclusions with theagencies. Ask for written confirmation, if theproject does not need a permit. Remember thatlocal laws may differ from state and federalregulations. The project will need to meet themost stringent regulations.

D. If the project requires agency approval, set up apre-application conference with the appropriateagencies. Present your project ideas and follow theagency recommendations.

Step 2 - Plan the ProjectA. Ask the agencies if they think a resource

professional is needed to design the project. Forexample, the correct slope, rock size, and plantmaterials may be needed for a successful streambank project.

B. Budget time in your project schedule to get permitapprovals. The permit process may take 6months or longer. Keep in mind that projects infish-bearing streams must be constructedbetween July 1 and September 15 or 30, to avoidharming migrating fish.

C. Consider environment-friendly designs. Forexample, the Oregon Department of State Landsprefers stream bank stabilization projects thatcombine native plants with hard structures.Plants protect the banks, slow erosive waters,and provide habitat for fish and wildlife.

Step 3 - Fill Out and Send in the ApplicationA. Read the application carefully and make sure the

project meets the agency standards.B. Enter information that is accurate and complete.

Incomplete information is the most commonreason for permit delays. Complete information isnecessary to properly evaluate and approve theproject. If you have questions about the neededinformation, contact the permitting agency.

C. Include the scale drawings, property descriptions,proposed design, maps, and other materials asneeded. Sign your signature in ink. Drawings andmaps on 8.5" by 11" paper are easier for agenciesto handle.

D. Send the application with the permit fees.Respond quickly to agency requests for moreinformation. Ask the agency for clarification if youdon’t understand the request.

E. Once the permit is approved, read the conditionsof approval carefully. Ask the agency for help ifyou don’t understand or don’t think you can carryout the conditions.

F. The application may be rejected if the project doesnot comply with the agency regulations. Considerchanging the design, moving the location, orfinding an alternative use of the property.

Step 4 - Construct the ProjectA. Remember that you may need a permit from more

than one agency to begin construction. If youbegin construction without the necessary permits,the authorities may impose fines and require youto restore the area.

B. While the work is underway, you must follow allthe conditions of approval, plans, and regulationsexactly. Any changes to the project plan must beapproved.

C. Once the project is done, check the site annuallyto see if it meets your project goals. Determine ifmodifications or maintenance is needed. Shareyour observations with resource professionals sothat we all learn how to manage our resourcessuccessfully.


FILLING OUT A PROJECT PERMIT - TIPS FOR SMALL ACREAGES IN OREGON

USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service

Agencies require certain documents and information to complete the permitapplication. You may be asked to provide the following information:

Aerial photos.These photos can be used to show the project location and thesurrounding area. You may purchase aerial photos of the project areaat your local USDA Farm Services Agency or by phoning the U.S.Geological Survey (USGS) at (888) ASK-USGS. You can also downloada low-resolution digital photo from the Microsoft Terra Server onlineat http://terraserver.microsoft.com/terra_how.htm or order ahigh-resolution digital photo from USGS at the same website.Availability may vary.

Floodplain maps.The Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) publishes mapsthat show the location of the 100-year floodplain. You can order thesemaps by calling (800) 358-9616 or writing to the Map Service Center,PO Box 1038, Jessup, MD 20794-1038.

Map and tax lot number.This number is found on tax assessor maps. Call the Multnomah County assessor at(503) 988-3326 to find out the tax lot number for your property.

National Wetland Inventory maps (NWI).The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service publishes maps that show the general location ofwetlands. You can purchase these maps through the USGS at (888) ASK-USGS.

Property legal description.The metes and bounds for your property may be found on the deed, land salescontract, or title insurance policy.

Property ownership.If the project involves roads, right-of-ways, or other properties that do not belong toyou, then you need to list the name and addresses of the other landowners. Thisinformation is often needed for water right permits. Proof of easements or writtenauthorization is required.

Stream name and river mile.This information is often available on topography maps.

Soils maps.To get a general soil map of your property, contact your local soil and waterconservation district and USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service office. Youmay need to hire a consultant for site-specific soil investigations.

Topography maps.U.S. Geological Survey topography maps are useful for showing the project location,elevation, distance, longitude, and latitude. You can purchase a topography map atthe Nature of the Northwest Information Center, Suite 177, 800 NE Oregon St.,Portland, Oregon 97232, (503) 872-2750. Or you may buy maps directly from theUSGS writing to USGS Information Services, Box 25286, Denver, CO 80225, orordering online at www.usgs.gov/pubprod/.

Township, Range, and Section.If the project is on your property, the township, range, a) nd section number is codedin your tax lot number. You can also find this designation on the borders of atopography map, soil map, or Oregon Department of Forestry map.

Well logs.Water right applications may require the well log of your well or surrounding wells.This information is available from your local watermaster.

Soil Survey



ForHelpForHelp

Check Out Your Permit Concerns with Us

Oregon Water Resources Department has watermasters that can assist you withwater rights and well log records. Contact your local watermaster for moreinformation.Your local soil and water conservation district (SWCD) and the USDA NaturalResources Conservation Service (NRCS) may provide site visits for projects thatstabilize stream banks, drain agricultural land, or restore shallow water areasfor wildlife. The office may also have aerial photos, floodplain maps, topographymaps, and National Wetland Inventory maps that may be photocopied for asmall fee. Contact East Multnomah SWCD at (503) 222-7645 or WestMultnomah SWCD at (503) 238-4775 or NRCS at (503) 326-3941.Oregon Department of Fisheries and Wildlife and the U.S. Fish and WildlifeService may provide site visits for projects that restore wetlands and wildlifehabitat. Look in the phone book blue pages under State and Federal Governmentfor the offices nearest you.Oregon Department of Forestry issues approvals for all forest managementactivities, except planting. Look in the phone book blue pages under StateGovernment for the office nearest you.

If you are unsure whether your project needs a permit or would like totalk about specific concerns with an agency, you can call or write to thefollowing agencies:

LocalMultnomah CountyLand Use Planning (503) 988-3043Gresham Building Division (503) 618-2845Portland Development Services (503) 823-7300

StateOregon Department of State Lands775 Summer Street NESalem, OR 97301Phone: (503) 378-3805Fax: (503) 378-4844Oregon Department of Environmental QualityWater Quality Division2020 SW 4th Ave., Suite 400Portland, OR 97201Phone: (503) 229-5263Oregon Department of Land Conservation & Development1175 Court Street NESalem, OR 97310-0590Phone: (503) 373-0096Fax: (503) 362-6705(For projects that are west of the crest of the Oregon coast range)

FederalU.S. Army Corps of Engineers, District EngineerATTN: CENWP-OP-GP.O. Box 2946Portland, OR 97208-2946Phone: (503) 808-4373Fax: (503) 808-4375




FactSheetFactSheet

Vent pipe is screened

Cap is secure

Casing extends 12" above ground

No cracks or holes in casing

Never any surface water at base

After You Buy: Wells, SepticSystems, and a Healthy HomesiteTips for Small Acreages in Oregon

“This land is thehouse we havealways lived in.”

– Linda Hogan

Be Good to Yourself and Your NeighborsThe wide, open spaces of the country are truly something to care for. You can

do many things to maintain the quality of life you desire. Take responsibility tosustain the land, water, and other natural resources in your watershed. Getstarted by properly caring for your well, septic system, and other things in yourown backyard.

Inspect Your Well Every Year

How Well is Your Well?Overall, Oregon has excellent

groundwater quality. However,pollutants such as nitrate have beenfound in many areas such as GrantsPass, Prineville, Hermiston, Ontario,and Junction City. These towns andcities test and purify drinking water intheir municipalities. If you are one ofthe 500,000 Oregonians with ahousehold well, it is up to you toprotect, test, and purify the water foryour family’s health. Prevention is thebest protection for your well. Whenwells are polluted, the source is oftennear or at the well itself. Protect yourwell and groundwater by the following:

Maintain your septic system.Divert drainage away from the well.

Never store fertilizers, pesticides, orother chemicals in the well house.Mix fertilizers and pesticides and filltanks and spreaders at least 100 feetfrom the well.Locate new livestock buildings,manure piles, and animal yards atleast 100 feet from the well. The wellmust be 50 feet from septic tanks and100 feet from drainfields.Properly cap old, unused wells on theproperty. Consult a professional foradvice.Get a Home*A*Syst evaluation tofind out how to protect your drinkingwater supply. Contact your localExtension Service agent for moreinformation.

Oregon State University Extension Service

What’s in the Water?No water is 100% pure. Most substances are harmless, but some are

nuisances or harmful. Test well water as a precaution or if you suspect aproblem. Check results against the drinking water standards set byOregon. A list of state-approved testing laboratories is available from yourlocal extension office, Oregon Health Division, or at website http://wellwater.orst.edu/watertests.htm. Here are some of the more commonwater quality problems in well water:

The Solution to Well Water PollutionIf tests show that water treatment is needed, do your homework

before buying expensive water treatment equipment. Identify and stop thesource of pollution. If a second test from a state-approved lab still showscontamination, compare water treatment options offered by differentdealers. When water treatment companies give you conflictingrecommendations, contact the Extension Service or Oregon Division ofHealth for an unbiased opinion.

Adapted from Water Testing (AEX-314), Ohio State University Extension, the National Primary Drinking Water Standards,Federal Register, and Gail Glick Andrews, pers. comm.

Health ConcernsCause of ProblemsWhat to Test for When to Test

Coliform bacteriaSigns: Musty, septic, or earthyodor. Not always evident.Standard: Absence

Each year. Poor well installation,manure, septicsystems.

If bacteria reach the well,other disease organismsmay follow the samepathway. Do not drink thewater until it is purified.

NitrateSigns: Not always evident.Standard: 10 mg/L

Each year if inhigh nitratearea. If not,every 3 years.

Fertilizers, manure,and septic systems.May also naturallyoccur in soil.

If nitrate reaches the well,other pollutants can follow.Nitrate can harm infantsand kill livestock.

Brain and blood disordersin children.

Lead pipes andcopper pipes withlead solder.

Only ifsuspected orwhen lead orcopper pipes arepresent.

LeadSigns: Metallic taste, corrodedpipes, lead pipes, copper pipeswith lead solder.Standard: 0.015 mg/Lin first draw sample

Only if suspected.IronSigns: Rust stains on laundryand fixturesUnregulated: 0.3 mg/L

Dissolved iron insurrounding soils.

Nuisance.

HardnessSigns: Scaly deposits andscum.Unregulated: 100 ppm

Only if suspected. Dissolved minerals insurrounding soils.

Nuisance.

Hydrogen sulfideSigns: Rotten egg odor.Unregulated: 250 mg/L sulfate

Only if suspected. Dissolved sulfate insurrounding soils.

Nuisance.


AFTER YOU BUY: WELLS, SEPTIC SYSTEMS, AND A HEALTHY HOMESITE - TIPS FOR SMALL ACREAGES IN OREGON

Septic System EtiquetteContrary to popular belief (or wishful

thinking), septic systems are notmaintenance-free. Half of all septic systemfailures are due to poor maintenance. Signsof neglect include backed-up plumbing, lushgrass over the drainage field, and smellyseepage. Long before you see these signs,the system may discharge untreatedsewage into the groundwater and into yourwell! Extend the life of your septic systemby the following:

Inspect the solids in septic tankannually.Insert a probe into the inspection port inthe tank lid. If solids (usually blackspecks) cover the probe more than one-third of the tank depth, it’s time to pump.

Pump the tank every 1 to 5 years..Decide the pumping frequency based onthe solids inspection or use the TankPumping Frequency chart as a guide.

Tank Pumping Frequency in Years

Tank Size Number of People in(Gal) Household

1 3 5 7

500 6 2 1 1

1,000 13 4 2 1

1,500 19 6 3 2

2,000 25 8 5 3

Adapted from Septic Tank Maintenance (EC 1343),Oregon State University Extension Service.

Septic Tanks: the BasicsNobody wants to flush a toilet into a drinking water

supply. It’s important to install and maintain septicsystems properly to avoid polluting groundwater. Typicalseptic systems have three parts:1. Septic tank. Household wastewater is collected and

stored in a concrete, metal, plastic, or fiberglass tankjust outside the house. The tank stores solids that floatto the top or settle to the bottom. The remaining liquidflows into the drainfield. If tanks are not pumpedperiodically, floating solids may overflow into thedrainfield and clog pipes and soil.

2. Drainfield. The drainfield is made up of a grid of pipes that spread the liquidover a wide area. Holes in the pipe allow liquid to leach into the soil.

3. Proper soil. The soil is the single most important purifying step in a septic system. Soilmicroorganisms and plant roots need air and time to break down bacteria, viruses, andnutrients and purify liquid waste. Septic systems fail when soils are too wet, clogged, orcompacted to absorb the liquids or too well-drained to have enough time to purify liquids.

Avoid garbage disposals.A garbage disposal can add up to 25 percent ofthe solids in a tank.

Keep slow-to-decompose items out of thetank.This includes coffee grounds, facial tissues,cigarette butts, disposable diapers, sanitarynapkins, and wet-strength towels. Use toiletpaper that breaks down easily when wet (colordoesn’t matter).

Keep harsh cleaners, solvents, and paintsout of the tank.Normal amounts of bleach, detergent, draincleaners, and toilet bowl deodorizers will notstop the natural breakdown of solids in thetank. Excessive amounts will. The system is notdesigned to purify these contaminants. Followlabel directions for proper disposal. Takeadvantage of “household chemical days” at alocal landfill.

Avoid products that claim to clean septicsystems.There’s little evidence that these products work.What’s more, some may be carcinogenic andmove into your groundwater.

Use less water.Give time for solids to settle in the tank andavoid flooding the drainfield. Installshowerheads, faucets, and toilets that use lessthan 3 gallons of water per minute or per flush.

Keep vehicles, trees, and roof water awayfrom the drainfield.Vehicles may compact soils and damagedrainfield pipes. Tree roots clog pipes and roofwater saturates soils.




ForHelpForHelp

Fuel Oil and Water Don’t MixMost people wouldn’t dream of

dumping a quart of oil over the side of aboat. But the results may be the samewhen landowners ignore leaks from fueloil tanks. Leaks can reach a well, astream, or a bay. One quart of oil cancontaminate 2 million gallons of wateror form an oil slick 2 acres in size. Avoidfuel oil spills by the following:

Monitor the fuel tank in summer.Use a dipstick to detect unwarrantedleaks.

Watch fuel oil deliveries.Spills often occur from overfilling orfilling vents at the house without thetank attached. If you remove your tank,remove the fill cap and contact the oilcompany to cancel future deliveries.

Replace buried tanks withaboveground ones.Aboveground leaks are easier to detect.Consider adding a concrete apron tocontain accidental spills. Locate thetank more than 100 feet fromwatercourses.

Stormwater Runoff:Get Soaked

When sidewalks, patios, and roadscover the soils of a watershed, thesewatertight surfaces increase thepollutants that may reach a stream.Rainwater picks up fertilizers,pesticides, and pet waste along the wayand runs directly into streams. Pollutedwater hurts fish and drinking supplies.Slow down water, filter runoff, and turnyour yard into a “sponge” by:

Creating swales in the yard.Low areas in the yard can temporarilyhold water and grow moisture-lovingplants.

Replacing lawn with native plants.Turf has fast runoff rates. Reduce lawnmaintenance and plant nativevegetation that is usually more drought-and pest-tolerant.

Replacing asphalt and concrete.Use permeable materials of brick,paving grids, stone dust, or gravel.

Environmental Protection Agency


Oregon State Univer-sity Extension Serviceoffers Home*A*Systevaluations, publica-tions, workshops, andover-the-phoneassistance on wells,septic systems, andother home waterquality issues. Con-tact your local Exten-sion Service office formore information.Oregon Departmentof EnvironmentalQuality (DEQ)provides informationon maintaining septicsystems. ContactDEQ at (503) 229-5279.Oregon Dept. ofHuman ServicesDrinking WaterProgram in Portland(971) 673-0405provides informationon wells and drinkingwater.

Reduce, Reuse, and RecycleHazardous Chemicals

Household, lawn, and gardenchemicals can be hazardous to yourhealth and the environment. Takecare of the health of yourself and yourwatershed by practicing the following:

Use healthy home recipes.Many alternatives for householdcleaners and pesticides exist and canbe mixed from what’s on hand. Forcheaper and safer alternatives,contact the Oregon Department ofEnvironmental Quality at 800-452-4011 or check www.metro-region.org/article.cfm?ArticleID=1400

Buy only what you need and givethe rest away.Give leftovers to others for their use.Make sure the products are in theiroriginal containers with labels.

Don’t burn, bury, or flushhazardous products.Look for signal words on the labelthat indicate how hazardous aproduct is. “Warning,” “Danger,” or“Poison” indicate that the product ismoderately hazardous to highly toxic.Dispose of the product according tothe label directions.

Take hazardous items to specialrecycling centers.Hazardous items include all types ofbatteries, ionization smoke detectors,paints, stains, fuel oil, motor oil,kerosene, automatic transmissionfluid, brake fluid, and antifreeze. Callthe city or county to ask aboutcollection locations.


FactSheetFactSheet

Enhancing Wildlife Habitat

Tips for Small Acreages in Oregon

“We live in a worldof complex,intertwinedrelationships. Theloss of one, smallspecies may nottouch us, but it canset in motion achain of events thatultimatelydamages ourexistence. By givingback to wildlife,you give to thefuture.”– Rebecca MacLeod,

NRCS DistrictConservationist

Living the Good Lifewith Wildlife

Wildlife Needs: the BasicsWildlife includes insects, spiders,

mammals, birds, fish, amphibians, andreptiles. Each animal lives in a habitator habitats that provide food, water,cover, and the right placement of each.Small farms and ranches can providehabitat for many of these needs:

FoodAnimals need food year-round. Cropsand plants provide forage, berries,nuts, and fruits. Plants with fruits thatdry on the stem and are slow to fall areimportant winter foods. Plants attractanimals that are prey for others in thefood chain.

WaterWildlife species need water to drink, tobathe in, and as a source of food.Streams, ponds, birdbaths, andwatering tanks can provide water.

CoverWildlife need places to nest, rest,escape from predators, and take shelterfrom harsh weather. Brush piles, fencerows, rock piles, and dense shrubsprovide cover. Many wildlife speciesuse different habitats to meet theirneeds. For small animals, thesehabitats must be close together. Forexample, quail and rabbits need forageand shrubs within a few hundred feet

of each other. Other wildlife cantravel greater distancesbetween needed cover andhabitat types.

Oregon has anexceptionally diverse numberof landscapes and habitats.Improving your property forwildlife will depend on theconditions in your area.Become familiar with the localwildlife and their habitats. Getadvice from informed peoplewith local experience.

© ChristineHolden,

US Fish andWildlife Service

Ruffed Grouse

Tree Frog

© Christine Holden,US Fish and Wildlife Service


We often choose to live in thecountry because of the wildlife foundthere. Some wildlife benefits are:

Natural pest control.Bats can eat more than 500 insects anhour, including mosquitoes andagricultural pests. Hawks and owls eatrodents.

Healthy wildlife population means ahealthy environment for people.Our declining fish populations are like“canaries in a coal mine,” warning usthat our watersheds are not as healthyas they could be. Clean water forsalmon means clean water for drinking,fishing, and swimming.

Moments of beauty.Seeing wildlife relieves stress and givesus an opportunity to teach our childrenabout nature and the importance ofstewardship.

Unfortunately, more than a quarterof the 626 native fish and wildlifespecies in Oregon are threatened,endangered, or are headed in thatdirection. More than a third of ourmigratory birds have decliningpopulations. We know that carefulmanagement has increased populationsof bald eagles, peregrine falcons, andwestern snowy plovers. Homeownersand small landholders canmake an importantcontribution byproviding optimalrefuge,water, andfood forwildlife.

Where Do I Start?Small farms and ranches can be rich wildlife havens and serve as buffers from

urban areas. To enhance wildlife opportunities on your land:1. Draw a map of your property.2. Inventory your existing habitat types (trees, shrubs, or grasses).3. Decide what wildlife you would like to encourage.4. Make a plan to meet your goals for protecting, restoring, or improving wildlife

habitat.5. Follow parts or the entire plan over a period of years.

You can improve wildlife habitat on your land in six basic areas: pasture,windbreaks, cropland, woodland, wetland, and farmstead. One study showed thatcropland supported up to 88 birds per acre, grassland supported up to 386 birdsper acre, and wetland supported up to 702 birds per acre. Read on to learn how toenjoy the company of more wildlife...

How Much Wildlife Can My Land Support?Just as the acreage and productivity of a pasture can only support a limited

number of livestock, so it is with wildlife. A 5-acre farm may support a bevy ofsongbirds, but it will be difficult to supply all of the requirements for deer. If youwould like to attract wildlife requiring large acreages, work with your neighbors toprovide habitat on adjoining properties. Wildlife won’t recognize property lines.Here’s a sampling of wildlife species and their habitat requirements:

Adapted from Enhancing Wildlife on Private Woodlands (EC 1122), Oregon State University.

RiparianSalamanders, frogs, snakes

Required AcreagesHabitat and Wildlife

1/4 to 2 acres - moist, streamside vegetation withclosed canopy; flowing streams.

15 acres - open areas with grasses and forbs; someshrubs. Rabbits need 1-2 brush piles/acre.

50 acres - openings, closed canopy (15-year-old+trees). Must be close to extensive forested areas of100 to 1,000 acres.

15 acres - 50:50 ratio of conifers to alder. Needmoist streamsides.

MeadowQuail, rabbit, meadowlark

Mixed meadow/forestDeer, elk

Young forestRuffed grouse

Rabbit

Junco

Salamander

Salmon

Towhee





© US Fish and Wildlife Service


ENHANCING WILDLIFE HABITAT - TIPS FOR SMALL ACREAGES IN OREGON

The Farmstead as WildlifeHabitat

Enhancing wildlife at the farmstead andsurrounding landscape offers the opportunity to seewildlife up close. Consider the following to invitewildlife near your home:

Tolerate some leaf litter and weeds in youryard.Allow leaves to accumulate under shrubs. You’llencourage towhees and fox sparrows, get rid ofinsects, and do less raking. Some “weeds” areactually valuable wildlife foods. Dandelions,pigweed, knotweed, chickweed, miner’s lettuce, andwild grasses produce seeds prized by wildlife. If youare concerned about the looks of a weedy patch, putup a sign that says, “It’s for the birds.” In dryareas, you will need to balance the wildlife benefitsof plant litter with the fire hazards.

Manage roadsides for wildlife.Mow in August to avoid the nesting season andleave some cover for winter. Mow grass in blocks toleave some undisturbed cover at any one time.Convert bluegrass or fescue areas to nativegrasses. Consider a prescribed burn every 3 to 5years to maintain grass and forb cover.

Preserve abandoned buildings.Abandoned house and barn buildings provideshelter for barn owls, barn swallows, rabbits, andraccoons. If it is necessary to remove the buildings,consider keeping the surrounding trees and shrubs.Plant mast and berry-producing trees in the area.

Install birdbaths, birdhouses, and bat boxes.Birdbath water will attract insect- and fruit-eatingbirds that ignore birdfeeder seed. More than 24 NorthAmerican bird species will nest in birdhouses thatprovide nesting cavities in the absence of snags. Donot put birdhouses built for the same bird speciesnext to each other, unless you like to see bird fights.For more information, see the US Fish and WildlifeService publication “Homes for Birds” at the followingwebsite: http://www.bcpl.lib.md.us/~tross/by/attract.html. Also, the Bat Conservation Trust hasadvice on bat houses at http://www.bats.org.uk/.

Control pets.Domestic cats are among the most serious predatorsof songbirds and quail. Unleashed dogs often disturbnesting birds, run deer, and chase livestock. While itis tempting to let pets roam free in the country, it issafer to confine pets to your yard.

Discourage scavenging wildlife.It is not healthy for wildlife to depend on processedfoods. Store garbage and animal feed in aluminumcans with secure lids. Put away cat food, dog chow,and water dishes at night. Plug holes to preventunwanted access to outbuildings.

Plant native trees, shrubs, and forbs.You can double the number of birds in your yardthrough diverse plantings that provide food year-round. Preserve existing native plants and addothers. Native plants are adapted to local conditionsand can be more drought-tolerant and resistant topests than ornamental plants. See the list below forthings to plant.

Wildlife Food Source Plants (native and acceptable non-native species)

FlowersGround CoversTrees Shrubs

Balsamrootblack-eyed susanbleeding heartcardinal flowercolumbineconeflowerdaisyfoxglovefuschiairislupinemilkweedpenstemonpoppysweet alyssumsunfloweryarrow

Big leaf maplebirchBrewer’s sprucecascaraDouglas-firfilbertgrand firhawthornincense cedarKousa dogwoodnoble firOregon white oakPacific crabapplered alderred and blue elderberryshore pinevine maplewestern hemlockwestern red cedarwestern white pine

Blueberrybutterfly bushDouglas spireaevergreen huckleberrylilacmockorangeOregon grapepyracanthared flowering currantred-osier dogwoodserviceberrysnowberrywild roses (bald hip,Nootka, and Wood’s)

BunchberryKinnickkinnicksalalvioletswild strawberrywood sorrel

Pastures as Wildlife HabitatPlant warm-season grasses.Paddocks planted to big bluestem, littlebluestem, or switchgrass will produceforage in the summer. These areas maybe left undisturbed in the spring andharvested for forage in late July orAugust. This forage is provided whencool-season grasses are dormant andafter the peak nesting season.

Add legumes to pasture and hayland.Legumes add nitrogen to the soil andreduce fertilizer requirements forforage. Grasses and legumes attractinsects that support insect-eatinganimals, supply browse, and providenesting cover.

Limit pesticide use.Insecticides such as organophosphateand carbofuran are extremely harmfulto wildlife. For example, carbofuranwill kill burrowing owls upon contact.Give nests and burrows wide berthwhen spraying. Find alternatives topesticides when possible and usepesticides only when the cost ofpesticides is outweighed by the damageto the crop. Select pesticides that arethe least toxic to wildlife, follow thelabel, and keep chemicals away fromwater.

Install fences that are safe forwildlife.Smooth wire is safer for wildlife thanbarbed or woven wire. Space wire at 16,22, 28, and 40 inches from the groundto allow antelope, deer, and elk to passthe fence with reduced damage tothemselves and the fence. The 12-inchgap between the two top wires keepsanimals from getting tangled in thefence. Some livestock may needdifferent wire spacing. See your fencedealer for details.

Preserve or plant a windbreak oftrees, shrubs, and forbs.One report estimates that birdsconsume up to 260 pounds of insectsper half-mile windbreak each year.Windbreaks also protect livestock fromharsh weather, control wind erosion,increase field moisture, trap snowdrifts,and provide travel corridors for wildlife.See the next page for details.

More than 99 percent of grasslandsnative to Columbia Basin or theWillamette Valley have disappeared.Old fields and pastures on private landcan make up for some of this habitatloss. More wildlife is found on farmswith pastures than those with croplandonly.

In eastern Oregon, grasslands areimportant to migratory birds, lizards,and rare mammals including theSwainson’s hawk, sagebrush lizard,burrowing owl, and the Washingtonground squirrel. In western Oregon,meadows are important to songbirdsand butterflies, including the Westernmeadowlark, Fender’s blue butterfly,grasshopper sparrow, horned lark, andwestern bluebird.

To increase wildlife habitat onpasture, consider the following:

Delay spring mowing or increase thetime intervals between grazing.April 1 to August 1 is prime nestingseason. Grazing or mowing at this timecan kill adults and their nestlings orcause adults to abandon nests. Sincethis time also produces the most forage,some farmers set aside one “refuge” fieldfor wildlife. This field can be grazedbefore April 1 and mowed after August 1to accommodate nesting.

Increase the time intervals betweengrazing.Rotationally grazed pastures have twiceas many songbirds as those that arecontinuously grazed. Livestock is movedbetween paddocks to provide grass arecovery period and to increase yield.Manure droppings increase grassgrowth and insects, which in turnprovide cover and food for wildlife.

Savannah Sparrow


© Christine Holden, US Fish and Wildlife Service


The Windbreak as Wildlife HabitatFifty-seven bird species use

windbreaks in the United States.Studies show that you will attract morebirds per fencerow if it has a mix oftrees, shrubs, and grass than one withonly grass. Trees attract hawks andowls, while short trees and shrubsattract ground nesters. Decaying treesprovide food and nest sites for someanimals. Most wildlife will begin topopulate a new windbreak after 5 years.

A typical windbreak has four to sixrows of trees and shrubs. However, themore windbreak rows, the better forwildlife. Plant rows perpendicular to theprevailing winds. In areas with snow,make sure the most windward row is atleast 100-200 feet from buildings,driveways, and feed bunks to provide forsnowdrifts. Or plant one or two shrubrows 50 feet windward of the mainwindbreak to trap snow.

Typical Windbreak

Plant type No. of SpacingRows Within Rows*

Conifer tree 2-3 6-20 feet(windward row)

Deciduous tree 1-2 6-15 feet(middle row)

Shrub 1 3-6 feet(leeward row)

*Spacing between rows is typically 12-16 feet.

Create a “wildlife windbreak” byproviding the following:

Perch poles, snags and birdhouses.Add birdhouses or at least three snags(standing dead trees) per fence row mileto encourage cavity nesters. Rock andbrush piles within the windbreak willadd cover.

Food plots or fruit-bearing shrubs onthe lee side.Windbreaks provide shelter from thewind. Food plots may also get a chanceto warm up in the sun, especially duringthe cold months.

Windbreaks between differenthabitats.Wildlife prefer using a travel corridorbetween food and cover sites, e.g. awindbreak connecting a woodlot andwetland.

However, windbreaks are not theanswer for every situation. Do notplant windbreaks in wide expanses ofgrassland. Some grassland species willbe at higher risk from predators andcowbird parasitism. Overgrownfencerows may also support noxiousweeds which should be pulled, clippedor spot-sprayed for removal.

A Native Plant WindbreakConsider these plants, which are

native cover and food sources, for yourwindbreak:

Native trees and shrubs areavailable at nurseries, the OregonDepartment of Forestry, and some soiland water conservation districts.

Douglas-fir Oregon white oak Mockorangewestern hemlock big leaf maple red and blue elderberrywestern red cedar vine maple red flowering current

red alder serviceberrybirch snowberry

wild roses(bald hip, Nootka)

ShrubsConifers Deciduous Trees

Kestrel



Forest as Wildlife HabitatSquirrel



Forests grow in stages, startingwith an event that opens up a standsuch as fire, insect and disease attacks,or timber harvest. These areas thennaturally progress to grasses, shrubs,seedling trees, saplings, mature trees,and finally to old-growth trees. Mostforests on private lands have beenrecently cleared and are in the youngforest stages. Young forest wildlifeincludes deer, elk, chipmunks, juncos,western bluebirds, red squirrels, ruffedgrouse, and MacGillivray’s warbler. Toencourage more wildlife in your forest,consider the following:

Preserve or create snags and downlogs.Almost 30 percent of the amphibians,reptiles, birds, and mammals in aforest use snags or down logs at sometime. Private woodlands in Oregonhave the potential of increasing cavitynesters by 60 to 94 percent. Avoiddisturbing existing large down logs,stumps and uprooted stumps. Increasethe number of large-diameter snags to10 or more per acre. Girdle non-marketable trees that must be cut froma stand and leave for a snag. This canreduce removal costs and damage fromfelling culled trees.

Make brush piles from slash.Woody debris provides food and coverfor salamanders, snakes, smallmammals, and birds that in turnbecome food for forest carnivores andraptors. Stack limbs from felled treesinto piles and place piles near forestedges. A pipe laid under the pile willprovide space for hiding. Leaving slashsaves time and labor for removal andreturns nutrients to the soil. In dryareas, you will need to balance thewildlife benefits with fire hazards. Formore information on fire protection,contact a USDA Forest Service office orOregon Department of Forestry officefor the publication “Home ProtectionGuide.”

Favor mast-producing trees like oak,maple, and ash.Mast is the berries, nuts, and seeds oftrees that provide food for wildlife. Oakwoodlands, a rare habitat in theWillamette Valley, supports more than150 different kinds of wildlife, includingthe acorn woodpecker, the sharptailsnake, and western gray squirrel. Masttrees can also provide timber, seedsources, and diversity against insectand disease infestations.

Seed trails, logging roads, and forestopenings to grasses and legumes.Grasses and legumes control erosionand increase insects, nesting cover, andforage for wildlife. Allow shrubs, vines,and native blackberries to develop onthe forest edge where they can protectthe woodland from drying winds andwhere timber quality is usually poorer.

Increase woodlot diversity.As the number of different plantsincrease in a woodlot, the more wildlifecan find the food and shelter they need.Uneven-aged forest stands have morediversity than even-aged stands thatresult from clearcuts. During thinningoperations, consider keeping patches ofunthinned or overtopped trees. Protectrare tree populations of Oregon whiteoak forests, Willamette Valleyponderosa pine, and Columbia Basinshrub-steppe.


The Wetland as Wildlife HabitatGreat Blue Heron


© Christine Holden, USFish and Wildlife Service

Less than 15 to 62 percent of thehistoric wetlands remain in Oregon. Awetland is an area with wet soils orstanding water that can support water-tolerant plants, be it a marsh, a wetstreamside, or seasonal pond. Thesevaluable areas filter pollutants, provideflood control, recharge groundwater, andenhance wildlife habitat. Wetlandssupport mammals, waterbirds, turtles,amphibians, and songbirds, includingthe yellow rail, great blue heron,western pond turtle, Oregon spottedfrog, red-legged frog, marsh wren, andmany ducks and geese. Here are someways to protect wetland habitats:

Do nothing.Wetland “enhancement” often meanschanging wetlands to meet people’sdesires. This is not always best for thewetland or the wildlife it supports. Ahealthy wetland has a thriving nativeplant and wildlife community. Adegraded wetland has noxious weedsand no longer provides many of thewetland benefits. For example, adegraded wetland that is choked withinvasive reed canarygrass and filledwith sediment may be improved withweed control and excavation. Seek thehelp of a professional if consideringmajor wetland changes. Otherwise,consider the small-scale improvementsthat follow...

Fence and buffer the wetland.Fencing is one of the easiest ways toprotect a wetland from livestock andpeople pressure. Consider replacingpasture or lawn with native trees,shrubs, and plants. Native plantsrequire less maintenance, as they areusually more drought-tolerant and pest-resistant than cultivated areas. Seeother fact sheets in this series for moreinformation on fencing and riparianareas.

Plant native vegetation.Although exotic plants may be attractiveto you, wildlife are more likely to usenative plants. Use caution whenplanting near open water. Too manyplants or the wrong kind can choke apond. If the wetland is not degraded,avoid planting.

Remove noxious or exotic plants.Noxious weeds are not native to thearea and grow unchecked by theirnatural enemies. Their biology allowsthem to spread rapidly and they quicklytake over natural communities. Contactyour county weed control board,Extension Service office, or OregonDepartment of Agriculture NoxiousWeed Program at (503) 986-4621, to geta list of noxious weeds and the bestways to control them

Designate trails.Trails can increase your enjoyment andappreciation of wetlands. Trails alsokeep disturbances to a minimum andprovide wildlife with unbrokenstretches of habitat. Paths may benatural, lined with wood chips (makesure chips are not treated withpesticides), or a boardwalk. Avoidgravel as it is noisy and may reduceyour wildlife sightings.

Identify and preserve seasonalponds.Seasonal ponds are often little morethan large depressions in the groundthat hold water until the dry months.The combination of water, insects, andlack of fish or other predators makesthese areas prime breeding habitat foramphibians. Frog calls in the springand wetland plants will help you locatethe ponds. Retain woody debris, litterdepth, and plant cover in these areas.

Avoid stocking fish.Fish stocking may be appealing, but itis rarely beneficial to a wetland andmay be illegal. Non-native fish or fishnot found in adjacent waterways mayescape into local waters and throw thenatural community out of balance. Thisoften happens during a flood. Consult aprofessional before stocking fish.

ForHelpForHelp



Cropland as Wildlife HabitatRaccoon

© Christine Holden,US Fish and Wildlife

Service

© Christine Holden, US Fish and Wildlife Service

Limit pesticide use.Use buffer zones to guard against drift andrunoff into important or unique habitats,such as wetlands. Where practical, eliminateuse of pesticides around field edges, corners,fencerows, nesting sites, streams, andwetlands. Find alternatives to pesticideswhen possible and use pesticides only whenthe cost of pesticides is outweighed by thedamage to the crop. Select pesticides thatare the least toxic to wildlife, spray in theevening when bees are less active, and followthe label directions.

The Buzz About BeesAbout 30 percent of our diet is the result

of a bee pollinating the flower of a fruit treeor a vegetable plant. Surprisingly, most ofthe 5,000 native bee species in the UnitedStates are solitary and nest in holes in theground or in twigs. Since these bees do nothave to defend a hive, they are notaggressive and rarely sting. You canencourage these friendly bees by building abee box. Follow these easy steps:1. Use a block of untreated lumber (3 to 5

inches thick).2. Drill 1/8-inch to 5/16-inch diameter holes

about 90 percent of the way into theblock. The 5/16-inch holes work best fororchard bees that are good pollinators offruit trees.

3. Space the holes about 1/2-inch to 3/4-inchapart.

4. Hang your bee blocks under roof eaves ora thick tree branch for protection fromsun and rain.

Leave unharvested rows on field edges.Leave unharvested grain, legume, andgrass strips along fencerows, at fencecorner, and in forest borders to providefood, nesting, and travel lanes next tocover.

Avoid mowing grassed waterways andgrass strips during the nesting season.Grassy areas like waterways, grass stripsalong fence lines, and odd areas in fieldcorners can be left undisturbed from April1 to August 1 to protect nests. Waterwayscan also provide food, cover, and travellanes through cropland.

Practice conservation tillage.This type of tillage leaves at least 30percent plant residue on the soil.Migratory birds will stop to eat wastegrain and weed seeds on their flight south.Canada geese and northern flickers mayuse these fields during the winter.

USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service and soil and water conservation districtsprovide on-site advice to create, restore, or protect stream corridors, wildlife habitat, andwetlands through several cost-share programs. Cost-share programs include theConservation Reserve Enhancement Program, Environmental Quality Incentives Program,Wetland Reserve Program, and the Wildlife Habitat Incentive Program. Look up your localoffice in the phone book’s blue pages under federal government, Department of Agriculture.The US Fish and Wildlife’s Partners for Fish and Wildlife Program funds projects thatcreate, enhance, or restore wetlands and stream corridors on private lands. Look up yourlocal office in the phone book’s blue pages under federal government.The Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife’s Wildlife Habitat Conservation andManagement, and Riparian Tax Incentive programs provide technical help, wildlife plans,and tax incentives for projects that create, improve or protect wildlife habitat. Look up yourlocal office in the phone book’s blue pages under state government.

Healthy Homesite...downstream. Tea-colored water often comes from the brown tannin of decaying...

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