THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Sara Benson, Amy C Balfour, Adam Karlin, Adam Skolnick,

Paul Stiles, Ryan Ver Berkmoes

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Hawaii

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Welcome to Hawaii . . . . . . .6

Hawaii Map . . . . . . . . . . . . .8

Hawaii’s Top 20 . . . . . . . . .10

Need to Know . . . . . . . . . 20

What’s New . . . . . . . . . . . 22

If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Month by Month . . . . . . . 26

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 40

Travel with Children . . . . 55

Regions at a Glance . . . . 59

OʻAHU . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62Honolulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69Pearl Harbor . . . . . . . . . 101Waikiki . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Diamond Head & Southeast Coast . . . . . . 128Diamond Head & Kahala 128Hawaiʻi Kai . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Hanauma Bay Nature Preserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131Koko Head Regional Park 132Makapuʻu Point . . . . . . . . . 133Windward Coast & Kailua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134

Pali Highway . . . . . . . . . . . 134Waimanalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135Kailua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138Kaneʻohe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144Kahaluʻu & Waiahole . . . . 146Kualoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146Kaʻaʻawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Kahana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Punaluʻu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Hauʻula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149Laʻie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Malaekahana State Recreation Area . . . . . . . . 151Kahuku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151

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Contents

North Shore & Haleʻiwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152Turtle Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Sunset Beach to Waimea Bay . . . . . . . . . . . 154Haleʻiwa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Waialua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Mokuleʻia to Kaʻena Point . . . . . . . . . . . 162Central Oʻahu . . . . . . . . 163Wahiawa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Leeward Oʻahu & Waiʻanae Coast . . . . . . . 165Waipahu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Ko Olina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Kahe Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Nanakuli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Maʻili . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Waiʻanae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167Makaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 169Makua Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 170Kaʻena Point State Park . .170

HAWAIʻI THE BIG ISLAND . . . . . . . . . . .172Kailua-Kona . . . . . . . . . . 178Around Kailua-Kona . . . 194Keauhou Resort Area . . . . 194Holualoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197Honokohau Harbor & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200South Kona Coast . . . . 201Honalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Kainaliu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204Kealakekua . . . . . . . . . . . .205Captain Cook . . . . . . . . . .208Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park . . . . . . . . . 211Honaunau . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213

Puʻuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park . .214Hoʻokena & Around . . . . . 216Miloliʻi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217North Kona Coast . . . . . 217Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park . . 217Keahole Point . . . . . . . . . . 219Kekaha Kai State Park . . .220Kaʻupulehu . . . . . . . . . . . . 221Kiholo Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223South Kohala . . . . . . . . . 223Waikoloa Resort Area . . . 223Mauna Lani Resort Area . .227Puako . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232Hapuna Beach State Recreation Area . . . . . . . . 233Mauna Kea Resort Area . . 233Kawaihae & Around . . . . . 235North Kohala . . . . . . . . . 236Kohala Mountain Road (Highway 250) . . . . . . . . . 236Akoni Pule Highway (Highway 270) . . . . . . . . . 238Hawi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239Kapaʻau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241Pololu Valley . . . . . . . . . . . 243Waimea (Kamuela) . . . . 243Mauna Kea & Saddle Road . . . . . . . . . 250Mauna Kea . . . . . . . . . . . . .250Saddle Road . . . . . . . . . . . 255Hamakua Coast . . . . . . 256Waipiʻo Valley . . . . . . . . . . 256Honokaʻa & Around . . . . . 261Kalopa State Recreation Area . . . . . . . .264Laupahoehoe . . . . . . . . . .264Hakalau & Around . . . . . . 265

Honomu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266Onomea Bay & Around . . 266Hilo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267Puna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281Keaʻau & Around . . . . . . . 282Pahoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283Lava Tree State Monument . . . . . . . 286Kapoho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286Red Road (Highway 137) . . . . . . . . . .286Highway 130 . . . . . . . . . . . 289Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park . . . . . . . . . . 289Volcano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 301Kaʻu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305Pahala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305Wood Valley . . . . . . . . . . . .306Punaluʻu & Around . . . . . .306Naʻalehu & Around . . . . . . 307South Point . . . . . . . . . . . .308Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park Kahuku Unit . . . . . . .309Ocean View & Around . . . 310

MAUI . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312Lahaina . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318West Maui . . . . . . . . . . . 332Lahaina to Maʻalaea . . . . 332Lahaina to Kaʻanapali . . . 333Kaʻanapali . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335Honokowai . . . . . . . . . . . . .340Kahana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341Napili . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341Kapalua & Around . . . . . . 343Kahekili Highway . . . . . . . 347

ʻIao Valley & Central Maui . . . . . . . . . 349Kahului . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .349Wailuku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 356Wailuku to ʻIao Valley State Park . . . . . . . 359ʻIao Valley State Park . . . 359Puʻunene . . . . . . . . . . . . . .360Kealia Pond National Wildlife Refuge . . . . . . . . . 361Maʻalaea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 361Molokini Crater . . . . . . . . . 363Kihei & South Maui . . . 363Kihei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363Wailea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374Makena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378Beyond Makena . . . . . . . .380North Shore & Upcountry . . . . . . . . . . . 381Paʻia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 381Haliʻimaile . . . . . . . . . . . . .386Makawao . . . . . . . . . . . . . .388Haʻiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .390Pukalani & Around . . . . . . 391Kula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392Keokea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .394ʻUlupalakua Ranch & Beyond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .394The Road to Hana . . . . . 395Twin Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . .396Huelo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .396Koʻolau Forest Reserve . . 397Waikamoi Nature Trail . . . 397Waikamoi Falls . . . . . . . . . 397Garden of Eden Arboretum . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397Puohokamaka Falls . . . . . 397Haipuaʻena Falls . . . . . . . . 397

Kaumahina State Wayside Park . . . . . . . . . . 397Honomanu Bay . . . . . . . . .398Kalaloa Point . . . . . . . . . . .399Keʻanae . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .399Wailua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401Wailua to Nahiku . . . . . . . 401Nahiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .402ʻUlaʻino Road . . . . . . . . . . .402Waiʻanapanapa State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . .403Hana & East Maui . . . . .404Hana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .404Hana to Kipahulu . . . . . . .408Kipahulu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .409Piʻilani Highway . . . . . . . .409Haleakalā National Park . . . . . . . . 410Summit Area . . . . . . . . . . . 411Kipahulu Area (ʻOheʻo Gulch) . . . . . . . . . 419

KAHOʻOLAWE . . . . . 422

LANAʻI . . . . . . . . . . . 424Lanaʻi City . . . . . . . . . . . . .428Munro Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . .434

Hulopoʻe & Manele Bays . . . . . . . . . . . 435Keomuku Road . . . . . . . . . 437Road to Garden of the Gods . . . . . . . . . . . .438Kaumalapaʻu Highway . . .438

MOLOKAʻI . . . . . . . . 440Kaunakakai . . . . . . . . . . 447East Molokaʻi . . . . . . . . . 453Kawela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453Kamalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 453ʻUalapuʻe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454Kaluaʻaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 454ʻIliʻiliʻopae Heiau . . . . . . . . 454Pukoʻo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Waialua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 455Waialua to Halawa . . . . . . 456Halawa Valley . . . . . . . . . . 457Pali Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 458Central Molokaʻi . . . . . . 458Kamakou Area . . . . . . . . . 458Kualapuʻu . . . . . . . . . . . . .463Kalaʻe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .463Palaʻau State Park . . . . . .464Hoʻolehua . . . . . . . . . . . . .465

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Contents

Moʻomomi Beach . . . . . . .465Kalaupapa National Historical Park . . . . . . . 466West End . . . . . . . . . . . . 469Maunaloa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 470Kaluakoi Resort Area . . . . 470West End Beaches . . . . . . 472

NI‘IHAU . . . . . . . . . . 474

KAUAʻI . . . . . . . . . . . 476Lihuʻe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 481Kapaʻa & the Eastside . . . . . . . . . 491Wailua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492Waipouli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .500Kapaʻa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .502Kealia Beach . . . . . . . . . . . 507Anahola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .508Koʻolau Road . . . . . . . . . . .509Hanalei Bay & the North Shore . . . . . . 509Kilauea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510Kalihiwai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515ʻAnini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 515Princeville . . . . . . . . . . . . . 516Hanalei Valley . . . . . . . . . . 521Hanalei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522Around Hanalei . . . . . . . . . 532Haʻena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 533Haʻena State Park . . . . . . 535Na Pali Coast State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . 536

Poʻipu & the South Shore . . . . . . 538Koloa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 539Poʻipu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542Kalaheo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 553Waimea Canyon & the Westside . . . . . . . . . . . . 555ʻEleʻele & Numila . . . . . . . 556Port Allen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 556Hanapepe . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558Waimea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 561Kekaha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .566Barking Sands . . . . . . . . . 567Polihale State Park . . . . . 567Waimea Canyon State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . 567Kokeʻe State Park . . . . . . 569

PAPAHĀNAU- MOKUĀKEA MARINE NATIONAL MONUMENT . . . . . . 576

Hawaii Today . . . . . . . . . 580

History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 583

Hawaii’s People . . . . . . . 596

Hawaii’s Cuisine . . . . . . 602

Hawaii’s Arts & Crafts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 611

Lei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .619

Land & Sea . . . . . . . . . . 622

Green Hawaii . . . . . . . . . 632

Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 638Transportation . . . . . . . 649

Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . 655

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 660

Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 678

SPECIAL FEATURES

Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Outdoor Activities . . . . . 40

Travel with Children . . . 55

Hawaii’s Arts & Crafts . .611

Lei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 619

Land & Sea . . . . . . . . . . 622

Plan Your Trip

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Viewpoint, Na Pali Coast, Kauaʻi

At Sea The Pacific Ocean – you probably noticed it on the way over. Here are all the ways Hawaii lets you play in it.

Beaches & Swimming When it comes to swimming beaches, you’ll be spoiled for choice in Hawaii. Coastal strands come in a rainbow of hues and an infinite variety of textures – with sand sparkling white, tan, black, charcoal, green or orange, or scattered with sea-glass, pebbles and boulders, and cratered with lava-rock tide pools.

By law, all beaches in Hawaii are open to the public below the high-tide line. Private landowners can prevent access to their shoreline from land, but not by water-craft. Resort hotel beaches provide limited beach-access parking spots for the public, occasionally charging a small fee.

Most of Hawaii’s hundreds of state and county beach parks have basic restrooms and outdoor cold-water showers; about half are patrolled by lifeguards. A few parks have gates that close during speci-fied hours or sometimes they’re signposted as off-limits from sunset until sunrise.

Nudity is legally prohibited on all public beaches in Hawaii. However, at a scant handful of beaches going nude or topless sunbathing by women is grudgingly toler-ated. Law enforcement at de facto nude beaches can vary, from absolutely nothing to a stern verbal warning to a written ticket with a mandatory fine and possible court appearance.

Swimming with captive and wild dol-phins is a controversial activity in Hawaii; see p 634 for more information.

Best Swimming Spots & Seasons Water temperatures are idyllic, ranging from 72°F to 80°F year-round. You can usually find somewhere to swim, no mat-ter what time of year you visit: when it’s rough or rainy on one side of any island, it’ll usually be calm and clear on another. Only on Molokaʻi is the swimming not great; there, incessant winds often make ocean waters too rough year-round.

Each island has four distinct coastal areas – north shore, south shore, leeward (west) coast and windward (east) coast – each with its own peculiar weather and water conditions. As a rule, the best places to swim in the winter are along the south shores, and in summer, along the north shores. Keep this in mind when deciding where to book your accommodations.

Ocean Safety Tips Never turn your back on the ocean. Waves and water conditions can change abruptly, so pay attention and never swim alone. Drowning is the leading cause of acciden-tal death for tourists. To check on cur-rent beach hazard warnings, visit http://oceansafety.ancl.hawaii.edu/alerts.

Rogue waves All waves are not the same. They often come in sets: some bigger, some smaller.

Best Time to Go for... Kayaking May–Sep

Snorkeling & Scuba Diving Apr–Oct

Sur ng Nov–Mar

Swimming Year-round

Whale Watching Jan–Mar

Windsur ng & Kitesur ng Jun–Aug

Hiking Apr–Sep

Top Adrenaline-Fueled Experiences Surf the giant waves of Pipeline off Oʻahu’s North Shore (p 155 )

Kayak the Na Pali Coast past Hanalei on Kauaʻi (p 536 )

Night dive or snorkel with manta rays on the Kona coast of Hawaiʻi the Big Island (p 184 )

Hike and backpack around Haleakalā’s volcanic summit on Maui (p 410 )

Ride a mule down Molokaʻi’s sea cliff s to the Kalaupapa Peninsula (p 466 )

Rent a 4WD Jeep to drive the Munro Trail on Lanaʻi (p 434 )

Outdoor Activities Nature has given the Hawaiian Islands such awesome scenery, you could do nothing but lie on your beach towel. But you didn’t come all this way merely to rest on your elbows. If you’re ready for the outdoor adventure of a lifetime, the real question is – how much time have you got?

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Hawai‘iVolcanoes

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VolcanoesNational Park

Wailuku River

Saddle Rd

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Hamakua Coast

Kona Coast

Waipi‘oValley

Mauna Kea(13796ft)

Mauna Loa(13796ft)

‘UpoluPoint

CapeKumukahi

PalimaPoint

South Point(Ka Lae)

PahalaMiloli‘i

Na‘alehu

Hawi

Honoka‘a

WaikoloaVillage

Kealakekua

Keauhou

Ho‘okena

Punalu‘u

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Waipiʻo ValleyStep back into

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Kailua-KonaNight-dive and snorkel

with mantas (p178)

Mauna KeaStargaze atop Hawaii’s

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KoloaPu‘uwai

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Waimea

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Kilauea

Princeville

HanaleiHa‘ena

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Pailolo Channel

‘Alalakeiki Channel

Kealaikahiki Channel

Moloka‘i

Maui

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Kaho‘olawe

‘Au‘au Channel

Pu‘u‘ula‘ula(10023ft)

Luamakika(1482ft)

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Lana‘ihale(3370ft)

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‘IlioPoint

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Sara BensonCoordinating Author, O‘ahu, Papahānaumokuākea Marine National Monument After graduating from college in Chicago, Sara jumped on a plane to California with just one suitcase and $100 in her pocket. She then hopped across the Pacific to Japan, with stints living on Maui, Hawai‘i the Big Island and O‘ahu and tramping all around Kaua‘i, Moloka‘i and Lana‘i. Sara is an avid hiker, backpacker and outdoor enthusiast who has worked as a seasonal ranger for the National

Park Service and as a volunteer at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. Already the author of more than 50 travel and nonfiction books, Sara also cowrote Lonely Planet’s Discover Honolulu, Waikiki & O‘ahu guide. Follow her latest adventures online at www.indietraveler.blogspot.com, www.indi-etraveler.net, @indie_traveler on Twitter and indietraveler on Instagram.

Amy C BalfourMaui Amy first visited Hawaii as a toddler. For this book, she snorkeled Molokini Crater, clutched the wheel on the Kahekili Hwy, ate a juicy burger beside a wild boar and watched the sunrise at Haleakalā. Amy has authored or coauthored more than a dozen books for Lonely Planet, including California, Caribbean Islands and Southwest USA. She has also written for Backpacker, Every Day with Rachael Ray, Redbook, Southern Living and Women’s Health.

Adam KarlinHawaiʻi the Big Island (Kailua-Kona & Around, South Kona Coast, North Kona Coast, South Kohala & Puna) Hawaiʻi was about as good as assignments get for Adam Karlin. He always gets asked this, so the answer is: yes, sometimes au-thors bring their significant others along on trips. He and his fiancée got an early honeymoon snorkeling with mantas, watching lava pour into the ocean, bathing in tide pools and endlessly exploring. He also celebrated his birthday on a Puna

clifftop watching the waves, a full moon, and lava coming down the mountain. Adam sheepishly admits that sometimes writing for Lonely Planet is pretty damn awesome. He should know; he’s written some 30 guidebooks for the company.

Read more about Sara at: lonelyplanet .com/members/Sara_Benson

Read more about Amy at: lonelyplanet .com/members/amycbalfour

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS

Although.the.authors.and.Lonely.Planet.have.taken.all.reason-able.care. in.preparing. this.book,.we.make.no.warranty.about.the.accuracy.or.completeness.of.its.content.and,.to.the.maxi-mum.extent.permitted,.disclaim.all.liability.arising.from.its.use .

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN.36.005.607.98311th.edition.–.Sep.2013ISBN.978.1.74220.415.4©.Lonely.Planet.2013....Photographs.©.as.indicated.201310..9..8..7..6..5..4..3..2..1Printed.in.ChinaAll.rights.reserved ..No.part.of.this.publication.may.be.copied,.stored.in.a.retrieval.system,.or.transmitted.in.any.form.by.any.means,.electronic,.mechanical,.recording.or.otherwise,.except.brief.extracts.for.the.purpose.of.review,.and.no.part.of.this.publication.may.be.sold.or.hired,.without.the.written.permission.of.the.publisher ..Lonely.Planet.and.the.Lonely.Planet.logo.are.trademarks.of.Lonely.Planet.and.are.registered.in.the.US.Patent.and.Trademark.Office.and.in.other.countries ..Lonely.Planet.does.not.allow.its.name.or.logo.to.be.appropriated.by.commercial.establishments,.such.as.retailers,.restaurants.or.hotels ..Please.let.us.know.of.any.misuses:.lonelyplanet .com/ip .

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

Adam SkolnickKaua‘i Adam writes about travel, culture, health and politics for Lonely Planet, Outside, Men’s Health and Travel & Leisure. He has coauthored 19 Lonely Planet guidebooks to destinations in Europe, the US, Central America and Asia, and has never found an island or place he enjoys more than Kauaʻi. You can read more of his work at www.adamskolnick.com or find him on Twitter (@adamskolnick).

Paul StilesHawai‘i the Big Island (North Kohala, Waimea, Mauna Kea & Saddle Rd, Hamakua Coast, Hilo, Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park & Ka‘u) When he was 21, Paul bought an old motorcycle in London and drove it to Tunisia. That did it for him. Since then he has explored 60 countries. With a passion for exotic islands, he’s covered Madagascar, Kauaʻi and Borneo for Lonely Planet, and lived for four years in Ten-erife, the tallest volcano in the Atlantic Ocean: great training for Hawaii. For this

book he sampled everything in Hilo Farmers Market and discovered ‘it’s all good!’

Ryan Ver BerkmoesLana‘i, Moloka‘i Ryan Ver Berkmoes first visited Moloka‘i in 1987 and remembers being intoxicated by lush, rural scenery on the drive east (or maybe it was the fumes from the heaps of mangos fermenting along the side of the road). He’s been back often, usually renting a beachside house where between novels he looks without envy at the busy lights of Maui across the channel. For this edition of Hawaii, Ryan also noted the many changes Larry Ellison is bringing to Lana‘i,

including the new grocery store dress code.

Read more about Paul at: lonelyplanet .com/members/paulwstiles

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10 DAYS

Think of this as your ‘town and country’ trip to Hawaii. Start off in the breezy streets of Honolulu, sleeping in mod style at the classic beach resort of Waikiki. Then trade the big-city buzz for the small-town scene on verdant Kauaʻi.

Touch down for four days on Oʻahu amid the skyscrapers of Honolulu. Between ses-sions at the beaches of Waikiki, eat your heart out in the capital, go clubbing and art-gallery hopping in Chinatown, visit the Bishop Museum and ʻIolani Palace, experi-ence WWII history at Pearl Harbor, enjoy

live Hawaiian music and hula at sunset, hike up Diamond Head and tour Doris Duke’s incomparable Shangri La.

Now relax. Heading east, spend a morning snorkeling at Hanauma Bay. In the afternoon, swim off the white-sand beaches of Waimanalo or surf, kayak, windsurf and kiteboard at Kailua Bay. Wend your way along the Windward Coast, with its jungly hiking trails, an-cient lava-rock fishponds and captivating offshore islands. Save at least an afternoon to savor the world-famous beaches of the North Shore. In winter, watch big-wave

Oʻahu & Kauaʻi

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surfers carving; in summer, snorkel with sea turtles.

Hop a plane over to Kauaʻi, full of heart-stopping scenery, for the next six days. Start off nice and easy in Poʻipu with a lazy snooze on the sunny beaches of the South Shore or head straight to Port Al-len for a snorkeling or scuba-diving boat trip. Then lace up your hiking boots and spend a day in Waimea Canyon State Park and Kokeʻe State Park, where you can traverse knife-edged 2000ft-high cliffs and peek into the ‘Grand Canyon of the Pacific.’

Giddy-up back around to Kauaʻi’s North Shore, which deserves a couple of days. Get in some swimming, snorkeling and windsurfing at ʻAnini Beach, and check out the beach-bum town of Hanalei for surfing and stand up paddle boarding on the bay or kayaking a peaceful river. Road trips hardly get more scenic than the drive to the very end of the road at Haʻena State Park.

OK, ready? Na Pali Coast State Park is what’s left: in summer, kayak 17 miles beside Kauaʻi’s epic sea cliffs; otherwise, backpack 11 miles to Keʻe Beach. Either way, you’ve saved the best for last.

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Looking for tropical adventures you can brag about? Hit up Maui for its postcard-perfect honeymoon beaches, serpentine coastal drives and hang-loose surf scene. When you’re ready for bigger thrills, jet to Hawaiʻi the Big Island, where erupting volcanoes, mysterious valleys and deserted beaches await.

With less than a week to spend on Maui, start in the old whaling town of Lahaina with its pirates’ treasure chest of historical sites. In winter, spot whales breaching offshore or take a whale-watching boat tour from Maʻalaea. For golden-sand beaches idyllic for swimming and snorkeling, drive north up the coast to bayfront Kapalua and south to the resorts of Wailea and beyond.

Make sure you get to Haleakalā National Park. Spend a day hiking around an ancient volcano and catching sunrise from the summit. Then drive the cliff-hugging Road to Hana, stopping to kick back on the black-sand beach at Waiʻanapanapa State Park. Go past Hana for a bamboo rainforest hike and to take a dip in the cascading waterfall pools of ʻOheʻo Gulch. Backtrack up the coast to the surf town of Paʻia, chowing ʻono grinds (delicious food) and admiring the daredevil windsurfers at Hoʻokipa Beach.

The Big Island can take a week and then some. Base yourself half the time in Kailua- Kona, alternating trips to the beaches – espe-cially those in North Kona and on the South Kohala ‘Gold Coast’ – with feeling the ancient mana (spiritual essence) at Puʻuhonua o Ho-naunau National Historical Park and tasting the produce at the coffee farms of South Kona. Take a leisurely drive along the Hamakua Coast, making sure to gaze out on Waipiʻo Valley, if not to hike down to the wild beach.

Walk around harborfront Hilo, exploring its historic architecture, the downtown farmers market and the excellent ʻImiloa Astronomy Center of Hawaiʻi and Pacific Tsunami Museum. Don’t miss detouring up to Mauna Kea for an evening of stargazing. Spend at least a full day in Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park: hike the otherworldly Kilauea Iki Trail, drive along the Chain of Craters Road and hopefully trek or take a boat ride to see some hot lava glowing fiery red after dark. Afterward retreat to your own rainforest cottage B&B in nearby Volcano.

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Go big or go home – if that’s your motto then pair Hawaii’s busiest island with its biggest. Beach-resort chic, ancient heiau (temples) set beside taro fields, mountainous hiking trails and azure bays with white-sand beaches let you experience the best of almost everything Hawaii offers.

Start on the capital island of Oʻahu, basing yourself in Kailua for five days. Among the many sights around Honolulu, don’t miss the WWII memorials at Pearl Harbor or the Honolulu Academy of Arts. Snorkel one morn-ing at Hanauma Bay and in the afternoon hike to Honolulu’s Manoa Falls after visiting the Lyon Arboretum. Take a class in lei making, hula dancing or ukulele playing in Waikiki, where you can end the day with a sunset cata-maran ‘booze cruise’ or live Hawaiian music and hula at oceanfront bars.

Drive up the Windward Coast, stopping at scenic beaches and to hike into the misty Koʻolau Mountains. Keep going past the coves of Turtle Bay to end up on the North Shore, famous for its big-wave surfing in winter. Stroll and grab a shave ice in Haleʻiwa, then take a joy-ride flight at Dillingham Airfield. Dip your toes into the lagoons at Ko Olina before cruis-ing up the workaday Waiʻanae Coast for a windy walk in Kaʻena Point State Park.

Mosey over to the Big Island and book a B&B in South Kona for a few nights. For ocean adventures, go scuba diving or snorkeling at night with manta rays around Kailua-Kona and hike in to snorkel at Kealakekua Bay or nearby Two-Step. Down in Kaʻu, hike to Green Sands Beach near windswept Ka Lae, the USA’s southernmost geographical point. Next up, Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, home of the world’s longest-running volcanic eruption, offers alien-looking moonscapes for hiking.

Spend a night or two in Hilo, taking time to drive partway up Mauna Kea for stargazing after dark. After rolling up and down along the Hamakua Coast, amble the old sugar-plantation town of Honokaʻa before stepping into ancient Waipiʻo Valley. Giddyup through Waimea (Kamuela), a paniolo (Hawaiian cowboy) outpost, into the quiet countryside of North Kohala: hike into sculpted Pololu Val-ley, circle around Moʻokini Heiau and wander quaint Hawi.

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Top: Kalaupapa National Historical Park (p466), MolokaʻiBottom: Garden of the Gods (p438), Lanaʻi

You’ve got time, you’ve got money and you want outdoor experiences and peaceful relaxation in equal measure. But you’re also willing to rough it when the rewards – hidden waterfalls, geological wonders – make it worthwhile. Mix up Maui, Lanaʻi and Molokaʻi for an unforgettable island-hopping journey by airplane and possibly boat.

First, spend five or six days on Maui. Make it easy on yourself by getting a resort hotel room or a condo for your entire stay at Kaʻanapali or Kapalua in West Maui or Kihei or Wailea in South Maui. Immerse yourself in the whaling history of Lahaina or take a whale-watching cruise from Maʻalaea. When it’s beach time, some of Hawaii’s wildest coastal strands are nearby, like Honolua Bay or Makena’s Big Beach.

Take one full day to hike the summit moon-scapes of Haleakalā National Park and an-other to lazily drive down the Road to Hana, stopping off for waterfall hikes and to buy fresh coconuts, before looping back to the laid-back surf town of Paʻia. If you’ve got time to spare, visit the small farms, botanical gardens and ranches of Maui’s Upcountry, where you can take a horseback ride or go ziplining. Before you head back to Kahului’s airport, admire the leg-endary jungle spire at ʻIao Valley State Park.

Next, hop over to Lanaʻi and take your pick of world-class resorts located in Lanaʻi City and at Manele Bay, staying three nights. Things have been a little hectic so far, so play a round of golf, snorkel at Hulopoʻe Beach or take in the vistas from the Munro Trail. To really get away from it all, rent a 4WD and head for the Garden of the Gods, Shipwreck Beach or down the dusty track to Naha.

Last, spend four or five days on Molokaʻi. Check into a condo or beachfront B&B after arriving in small-town Kaunakakai. Day one: explore East Molokaʻi, checking out Halawa Valley and perhaps a waterfall or two. Day two: trek to the Kalaupapa Peninsula and munch macadamia nuts at Purdy’s Farm. Day three: head out to the remote beaches of the island’s West End or penetrate the dense forests of the Kamakou Preserve. Days four and five: relax.

2 WEEKS Maui, Lanaʻi &

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(p186), Hawaiʻi the Big Island

If you want to live in the scenery – and not just admire it – take a month off on Oʻahu, Maui, Hawaiʻi and Kauaʻi. Find the truly off-the-beaten-track adventures of a lifetime and plenty of traditional and contemporary Hawaiian culture, not to mention sunset mai tais galore.

If the jam-packed beaches of Waikiki and modern high-rises of Honolulu seem too hectic, ease into your ‘rubbah slippahs’ on the island’s longest sandy beach at Waimanalo. Rent a beach cottage in Kailua or anywhere along Oʻahu’s North Shore, where world-class surfing beaches are calm enough for swim-ming and snorkeling in summer. To really leave the tourist crowds behind, get to know the Waiʻanae Coast, where big-wave surfers wor-ship at Makaha Beach.

Near Maui’s old whaling port of Lahaina, laze on West Maui’s beautiful beaches. Drive north around the peninsula, stopping to snorkel in sum-mer at Honolua Bay, then get on the scenic, nar-row cliffside Kahekili Highway. Swing down to South Maui and book a snorkel cruise to Molo-kini Crater, or check out migratory whales in winter at Kihei. After you ascend to the summit of Haleakalā National Park and snake down the Road to Hana, find your way back to civili-zation on the rugged Piʻilani Highway.

A week on the Big Island is barely enough but it’ll have to do. Soak up the sunshine north of Kailua-Kona, where you can hike or 4WD to gorgeous strands like Makalawena Beach in Kekaha Kai State Park or the giant Puako Tide Pools for snorkeling with tropical fish. After you drive past the lava deserts of Kaʻu and round Hawaii’s southernmost tip at Ka Lae, stop off at Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park before los-ing track of time in the hippie paradise of Puna.

Kauaʻi is Hollywood’s ready-made movie set. These soul-inspiring canyons, cliffs, waterfalls, rivers, bays and beaches are more than just pretty backdrops, however. Kayak past sacred temples along the Wailua River, then glimpse rainy Mt Waiʻaleʻale while hiking the rolling Kuilau Ridge & Moalepe Trails. If you have kids, splash around at Lydgate Beach Park. Charming Kapaʻa is worth a wander before bedding down in peaceful Kilauea, a jumping-off point to the sleepy backwaters of Kauaʻi’s North Shore.

1 MONTH The Big Four: Oʻahu,

Maui, Hawaiʻi & Kauaʻi

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