Hardbait Stencils

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 DISCLAIMER Neither the author nor the distributo r/s, or any other contribu tor of this information are in any way responsible for ph ysical, financial, moral or any other type of damage incurred by fol lowing t he suggestions in this text. Please adhere to all produ ct safety warnings & practice common sense. The following publi shed Information is the property o f tackleunderground.com & J erry Goodwin Inc. Content may not be sold distribu ted or redistributed without express permission. Page 1 of 6  Copyright © 2003 Jerry Goodwin Inc. - TackleUnderground.com

Transcript of Hardbait Stencils

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DISCLAIMERNeither the author nor the distributor/s, or any other contributor of this information are in any way responsible

for physical, financial, moral or any other type of damage incurred by fol lowing the suggestions in this text.

Please adhere to all product safety warnings & practice common sense.

The following publi shed Information is the property o f tackleunderground.com & Jerry Goodwin Inc. Content maynot be sold distributed or redistributed without express permission.

Page 1 of 6  Copyright © 2003 Jerry Goodwin Inc. - TackleUnderground.com

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How To Make Hardbait Stencils Using Plastic Milk Cartons astic Milk Cartons Published by BirdmanPublished by Birdman 

For years companies involved in hardbait production have used tempered brass sheeting to spray theirpatterns onto their baits. I too used this method for a period of time but became frustrated when thebrass continually scratched the underpaint and the brass would occasionally bend out of shape. I beganlooking for a softer, durable material for stenciling and came up with this relatively quick and easymethod. I am currently still using stencils made 10 years ago and see no signs of having to replace anythe older stencils.

TOOLS NEEDED: Loctite Steel Putty, Lead, Lead Melter, Propane Torch, Hand Held Rivot Gun, 1/8"x1/8Rivets, smooth sheets of plastic milk carton, and #4 Bulldog Clips.

MAKING THE MOLD AND LEAD INGOT

 To do this process correctly, you will need two to three baits. You are going to make a right and left sideimpression of your bait so either cut one bait into halves or use two baits with a line drawn down thecenter (submersion line). Using a clear coat, build up two coats on your bait so the impression will be

slightly larger that the actual bait to be used. (You will have to become very good at making the same baitto the same dimensions or use factory/machine made baits. Fill the Loctite steel putty (about $28-a twopart product-mix only what you will need) into two blister packs (or small rectangular containers). Placethe steel putty into the blister packs, ensuring no air is trapped inside. Next lay your bait on its right sidein one container and on its left side in one container. Allow to harden for 4-6 hours. (overnight is best)

Once hardened, you will need to remove the blister pack and the baits from the putty. This will take sometime to ensure all the wood is out of the impressions. (Small chisels, course sand paper, even a torch

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work well) Next pour hot lead into the mold and allow to cool.

AKING THE STENCIL 

op the ingots (two, left and right) out of the mold. I made a simple jig that allows me the raise and lower

M

 Pa platform with a cutout for the steel putty mold. You want a surface level with the top of the mold and anadjustable one is best as all blisters are not filled to the same height. Place the mold in the middle, lay asmooth sheet of plastic milk carton across the mold and heat with a propane torch. You just want to heatup the area directly over the impression. It will turn clear when hot enough. Now remove the heat, drop inthe lead ingot and cover with a flat metal surface. (This will keep pressure on the inglot and keep theedges of the plastic from curling.) Allow to cool for 30 seconds.

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Remove the metal cover; it should look like this...

Remove the plastic, it should look like this

Take the right and left halves and at this stage it is easier to cut in your design using a dremel tool (besure to cut away all the fuzzies), exacto knife, wood burning tool or anything you can think of. You'll needsome practice here so have lots of plastic sheets ready. You'll also want to ensure your pattern on theright side lines up and matches the left side.

Once your stencil is ready, take one of your baits and place it between the two plastic pieces. Take aBulldog #4 butterfly clip and drill a 9/16" hole on all four corners. Now take the plastic stencils and clipthe Bulldog #4 clip over the top of the two sheets. It very important here to adjust the stencils so thatthey line up perfectly so I place a spare bait body between the sheets to help line everything up. Thenmark the plastic through the clips. (Tip-label each half of the clip with an "L" for left and an "R" for right.)

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 Here's the fun part. You'll need to disassemble the clip. It takes some strength and practice. Drill out thenewly marked plastic with the same 9/16" bit and insert the loaded rivet gun from behind the plastic andclip. Squeeze and set rivet. (To best of my knowledge, no one has found a way to glue polyethelene toanything so a rivet gun is needed.)

The three parts of the clip should now look like this.

Reassemble the three pieces and trim off any access plastic not needed. I always leave some excess atthe bottom so I can squeeze the stencil tightly shut while painting.

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 That's it, you did it. Multiple stencils can be made for the same bait for layering effects. Good Luck

Birdman

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