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1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Guyana & Suriname 2020 www.birdquest-tours.com

Blood-coloured Woodpecker - Azure-coloured skies (Eustace Barnes).

GUYANA & SURINAME

22 FEBRUARY – 7/12 MARCH 2020

LEADER: EUSTACE BARNES with SEAN DILROSUN in SURINAME GROUP MEMBERS: BERNARD COURONNE, MICHAEL GODDARD, KARIN KOESTER, MANFRED KOESTER, MARIANNE LENZ, IAN LEWIS AND DENZIL MORGAN.


Rufous Potoo at one of very few known roosts for the species (Eustace Barnes).

So, Guyana and Suriname in one comprehensive tour of the region (assuming you do the extension). Got to be the way forward with ever improving infrastructure and better site information. Also, the Guianan shield avifauna is only accessed in Guyana and Suriname. That is, since Venezuela continues its staggering collapse into chaos and anarchy and, somewhat oddly, Manaus is remains out of fashion. Don’t understand that at all. Anyway, the Guianas do offer a great opportunity to see a good chunk of what the region has to offer so visiting both countries in one tour makes good sense.


I think it could safely be said that the tour was the best ever. We did improve on a number of counts as you might find, reading on. We did miss a couple of things and gain a couple of others. Whether I can now avoid the stultifying tedium of most tour reports is another question entirely, but I will try. However, I have just reread the list and what a trip. Got to be done, surely!

A superb male Red (Orange?) Siskin (Jonathan Newman)

Highlights as follows; outstanding views of Red Siskin on day 2, great experience with the magnificent Sun Parakeets on day 3, a nice session along the Ireng river with Hoary-throated Spinetails on day 4, a pair of Crestless Curassows at Karanambu, the other-worldly Capuchinbird, Bearded Tachuri at three locations, a couple of Crested Doraditos, a pair of Blue-backed Tanagers, a cooperative pair of Red and black Grosbeaks, a beautiful male Guianan Red Cotinga, the stunning Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock at a lek. Activity in the Iwokrama forest reserve was way better than usual for the specialities, producing great views of the rare Crimson Fruitcrow, two White-winged Potoos, a roosting Rufous Potoo, Crimson Topaz, a Spotted Antpitta and a tree full of Cotingas, including Purple-breasted, Spangled and Pompadour Cotingas! On the coast we found a pair of Blood-coloured Woodpeckers, a pair of Rufous Crab Hawks and those vexing Festive Amazons in the botanical gardens. Again, a big hit for only two weeks of birding. Well yes, but as a friend once wryly observed, ‘I suppose you do get more luck the more time you spend in the field’. All these tours are honed from thousands of hours of field experience, there is no luck, only tireless, leaders coordinating logistics. If either fails the whole thing is a disaster.

The Rupununi savannas (Eustace Barnes).


So, the Guianas (‘Covid-19’) 2020 tour kicked off with flights to Panama on KLM. Panama being the principal hub for onward flights for destintons Latin American and there being no direct flight to Georgetown from Europe..

A spectacular dark phase Long-winged Harrier (Eustace Barnes).

Unfortunately, the less developed world is precisely that part of the planet most affected by the grotesque over consumption that defines the developed world, generating that ‘work place stress’ and which, as such, simultaneously degrades natural systems and peoples lives. The staggering rate of environmental degradation taking place at present leaves me reeling and both horrified and overwhelmed. Those ‘sun seekers’ heading off to bury their heads in the sand and pickle their livers on some hideous package deal in the Caribbean might well have it sorted: the bliss of ignorance. However, while connecting with nature might be somewhat illusory for us, nature had every intention of connecting with us, as the tremendous diversity of biting things in the savannas and forests of Guyana demonstrated, with much of the fauna weighing up the pros and cons of trying to eat us.

Tranquil southern savanna rivers (Eustace Barnes).


Once assembled at the shambolical Herdmonsten Lodge we quickly made plans to visit the misnamed ‘botanical’ gardens; a sort of city park for picnickers, families and drunken revellers but not the carefully arranged selection of Guyana’s flora its name might suggest. These gardens are, nevertheless, always worth a visit or two, as our time therein demonstrated.

White-bellied Piculet. Picumnus s. spilogaster. (Ed Wilson).

Heavy barring on the throat and chest with large spots and crescents on yellowish flanks and belly do make this taxon quite distinctive.


Rounding up a fleet of taxis we headed, in convoy, the short distance to the garden entrance. Wandering around the gardens we quickly picked up the perky little Common Tody Flycatcher and Ochre-lored Flatbill which was previously misidentified as Boat-billed Tody Tyrant by local guides. I can only suppose this error arose when the first visiting birders on ‘FAM’ trips told the locals they were Boat-billed Tody Tyrants. Also present were Grey Kingbirds, of which we saw several, the brightly attired Yellow Oriole, dapper Rusty-margined Flycatchers, Great and Lesser Kiskadees and a few Violaceous Euphonias. Raptors were well represented with several Grey-lined Hawks, a single Zone-tailed Hawk, numerous Snail Kites and a pair of Black-collared Hawks flopping about.

Cocoi Heron lifting off (Eustace Barnes)

Anyway, we were looking for other targeted species and in no time found several White-bellied Piculets. The nominate form here having a heavily barred breast with variable ammounts of spots and or crescents on yellowish flanks and belly unlike the form orenocensis in the south (contra Winkler and Christie in HBW7) which is white from chin to crissum and largely unmarked. It would seem, as observed earlier, that this form and the Arrowhead Piculet need looking at from Georgetown to Paramaribo. The latter being more of a canopy species and much darker olive green below with profuse scalloping not barring.


A superb Ringed Kingfisher (left) and displaying Great Egret (right) (Eustace Barnes)

The afternoon skies are always full of parrots and we were treated to great views of numerous groups of Red-shouldered Macaws, Brown-breasted Parakeets, extraordinary numbers of both Yellow-crowned and Orange-winged Amazons. We also found a few pairs of the resident Festive Amazon (of the race bodini). The latter a now rare and somewhat localised taxon whose presence in these urban ‘gardens’ seems to be questioned. However, as with all the other parrots found in urban Georgetown the racces are appropriate to the their natural range and original distribution, although they are not questioned. As it was getting dark, we had found our target species and enjoyed the stunning spectacle of dozens of Psittacids wheeling in to roost we decided to return to our hotel for a splendid meal. Indeed time for a Banks and good night’s sleep, far, far, far from rain and floods in the UK (Three one hundred year floods in as many weeks seems indicative of something).

A funereal Grey-lined Hawk (left) and the wary White-tipped dove (right) (Eustace Barnes)

The usual Caribbean urgency to get things done greeted us at Ogle airport, as we waited for our flight to Lethem on the Brazilian border in the far south. It was cloudy. Window seat, aisle seat it made no difference to the views we obtained. However, we were flying over the vast forested interior that should give some hope for the survival of the great tropical treasure house.


This is page seems to be all about the environment, so skip a page to get to the birds if it gets too depressing. Any optimism on that score being ill-founded, as huge areas of forest are being cleared and degraded in dense mosaics of illegal mining. These swarming plagues of miners are churning up said ‘tresurehouse’ and destroying its real treasures forever. We did have sight of the intricate mosaic of savannas, gallery forests and wetlands so typical of the southern region, heralding our arrival at Lethem. A dusty little settlement, whose existence is contingent upon a tax differential between Guyana and Brazil, allowing residents of the latter to buy industrial quantities of shoes, flip flops and other consumer goodies in the former, before nipping back to the now bustling city of Boa Vista; a city whose population is now greatly augmented by the arrival of several hundred thousand Venezuelan refugees, fleeing the people’s socialist republic of Venezuela. What would Jeremy say about that I wonder? We did see, not only Venezuelans but also Haitians pouring down the Guyana highway to the Brazilian border, where presumably they will set about further wrecking the tropical ecology. At such times, one can see the pace of a globalised, desperate fight for water and land accelerate.

Hole in the sky. Peering down at those searching for gold (Eustace Barnes)

So, you can see here the separation ponds and cleared areas along streams where alluvial materials are being washed and graded in the search for gold. These areas soon regenerate but leave behind a mat of thick vegetation and poor secondary growth with a network of ponds. These present a threat of malaria to any settlers, which are periodically flushed by heavy rains to increase trace metal contmaination in water courses. Gold mining is a serious problem, as not only does it degrade large areas of forest but also the miners feed themselves by hunting. This is stripping large areas of wildlife from Monkeys and Tapirs to Parrots and Toucans. Additionally, the unregulated use of Mercury in the separation process contaminates rivers and lakes with a toxic heavy metal. This contamination disperses widely through the environment and, no doubt, can be detected in waters in and around Georgetown. It concentrates, along with other trace metals, from one trophic level to the next. Best not think about it. Why not head to the beach? Well, maybe the rising tide of plastic bottles might remind the sun-soaked of our reducing world and very generated anthropogeic mass extinction.


Buff-necked Ibises are now a common sight on the savannas (Eustace Barnes).

So, as noted in 2018, the savannas in the south present an intricate mosaic of grasslands and marshes. The region is very dry at this time of year and these savannas are subject to repeated burning until the rains start. The problem is that the dry season is getting longer and drier and the burns ever more damaging as a result.

The stunning Rupununi savannas (Eustace Barnes)

So, we met up with the Dadanawa boys; Leroy, Romain, Ryan and others and began our journey to the ranch. We crossed the spectacular open savannas to reach the delightful Wichabai lodge built near the Dadanawa ranch (1700 square miles) tucked away in the vast expanses of the Rupununi.


We had stunning views of the pretty Crested Bobwhite of the disjunct form sonnini (Eustace Barnes).

On the way we found a number of widespread species including Crested Bobwhite, Buff-necked Ibis, White-tailed and Savanna Hawks, Brown-breasted Parakeets, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Vermillion Flycatcher, Bicoloured Wren and Eastern Meadowlark. On arrival, we were to be treated to a real surprise as four Sharp-tailed Ibises were quietly feeding on the marshy pond in front of the new lodge (they were just too distant to get a decent photo). We watched this, now rarely seen species, with some satisfaction. This region may now be the best area to see this species since so many of the Llanos ranches in Venezuela have been destroyed and that country out of bounds for birders.

The large-headed Laughing Falcon (left) and White-tailed Hawk (right) were common this year (Eustace Barnes)


There were also a few Muscovy Ducks and a single dark phase Long-winged Harrier quartering the marsh, so ending a great day. With drinks, list and dinner fast approaching, we quickly settled in and made the most of liberal quantities of rum punch; a notable feature of life on this tour. As to be expected, we did then enoy a superb meal before getting our heads down for the night. Yours truly, billeted in a balcony hammock for the night.

The elegant Savanna Hawk (Eustace Barnes).

Savanna Hawk, White-tailed Hawk, American Kestrel, Northern Crested and Yellow-headed Caracaras were all very common at the numerous burns along the way.


Heading off across the starlit savannas before dawn we traversed one of the least known corners of ‘The Bird Continent’ in search of one of the rarest and most vulnerable denizens of the forest-island savanna ecotone; the Red Siskin. This, highly endangered, species was found here only relatively recently but seems to occur in reasonable numbers. Fortunatley, finding them is now somewhat straightforward and a brief early morning session is only needed to find this beautiful little finch, with our excellent crew and local assistants. On this occasion, the locals had located a small flock the day berfore and we were able to walk right up to a flock of fifteen or so, feeding in scrubby forest borders and watch them fussing about.

Unfortunatley, aviculturalists have not only discovered this population but also discovered a loop hole in the law regarding ‘natural resource’ exploitation in native communities. It goes like this - native people (as they live in tune with nature) are allowed to carry on using resources as they have done for countless millenia. ‘Controlled’ burns, taking fish and hunting and it seems, now trapping Red Siskins for pets! These are then sold to the avicultural community quite legally. Can you believe it. Well yes, this is a world wide problem that arises with the identification of native people as a ‘species’ apart that needs to be protected and encouraged to foster (and develop) its traditions and culture. Apart from the explicit racism embedded in these laws, they are basically allowing unscrupulous criminal fraternities to sub-contract logging, mining, hunting and trapping activiites to native communites and get away with it. It should be, one species, one set of rules. We are afterall, inspite of our ridiculous penchent for racism, an undifferentiated taxon characterised by reticulate tokogenetic colour morphism.


A short walk along the wooded borders nearby produced a number of Brown-breasted Parakeets, Orange-winged Amazons, Burnished-buff Tanagers, a pair of White-tailed Hawks, Savanna Hawk and a pair of Grey-lined Hawks as well as a few more Siskins. Entering a small woodland we picked up Black-crested Antshrike, Southern White-fringed Antwren, Yellow-bellied Eleanias, Brown -crested Flycatcher and a pair of Jacamars that combined the features of Rufous-tailed and Green-tailed Jacamar. This was always thought to be a zone of intergradation or hybridisation. We also found Lemon-chested Greenlets, Finsch’s Euphonia and Straight-billed Woodcreeper before turning up a small troop of Golden-handed Tamarins. A quite unexpected surprise. We then began to retrace our steps to the ranch for lunch.

So, this is what 4x4 vehicles were designed for. I hear quips about Chelsea tractors and Waitrose car parks. (Eustace Barnes).

Hard to beat! Picking our way along the rocky highway we retreated to the shady peace of a nice gallery woodland. We quickly found Red-eyed Vireo, Tropical Gnatcatcher, Green-tailed Jacamar, Rufous-winged Antwren, several pairs of White-barred Piculets and a party of calling Cayenne Jays. Time to go and so we extracted ourselves from the first of many thorny tangles and headed for Wichabai. We were only held up by a flurry of activity while crossing a rocky river bed. While looking at Great black Hawk we heard and then spotted a small family of Giant river Otters along with Anhinga and more Great black Hawks. These were to be the first of many groups of otters we saw on the tour. Normally we bump into the odd group at Karanambu but this year was to be very differnet. So, back to the ranch for lunch and a brief rest before packing up and retracing our steps westwards to Manari. It was hot, with temperatures rising above 37 degrees. Luckily, we only had to surf the dust plume back to Lethem and on to the Manari ranch for our afternoon entertainment. We did, as on previous tours, stop and wait as the dust settled to search for the somewhat local Bearded Tachuri. We did find a nice female and had good looks at the first of three sites we saw it.


White-throated Kingbird enjoying the rain (the only rain of the tour) (Eustace Barnes).

We also saw White-headed Marsh-tyrant, our first Wedge-tailed Grass-finch and numerous Plumbeous and Ruddy-breasted Seedeaters before the heat and swarms of biting insects forced us to get a move on. We did arrive in darkness but still enjoyed a relaxing evening at the Manari ranch trying to get the wi-fi to work. The government has sold off the concessions to companies that now charge US$500 per month for wi-fi! Then the service is slow and very poor. However, under COVID-19 lockdown, wi-fi is also bad in the UK!

Buff-necked Ibis (left) and Flavescent Warbler (right) (PL)


A few hours later, we were crossing yet another starlit savanna in a light smoke haze en route to another gallery forest in search of another set of targets. Just to the north of Manari unfolded before us as dawn broke. We took the time to enjoy a brief session at a picturesque wetland. We found Savanna Hawk, numerous Buff-necked Ibises, Jabiru, Maguari Strok, numerous Red-bellied Macaws, Brown-breasted Parakeets, Grassland Sparrows, Grassland Yellow-Finches, Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch, more White-throated Kingbirds, numerous Fork-tailed Flycatchers and the ubiquitous Vermillion Flycatcher madly displaying; they certainly suffer work place stress and RSI.

Palm savannas dot the landscape; favoured by Red-shouldered and Red-bellied Macaws (Eustace Barnes)

On arrival at the gallery forest we could not hear Rio Branco Antbird and so it proved the whole day! First time I have missed this species here, despite a serious effort on my part to find it. We were somewhat constrained in where we could look, but the three sites have all held the species in the recent past. The gallery woodlands were very dry but nevertheless rang to the songs of numerous birds, including Rufous-tailed Jacamar, Pale-legged Hornero, Steak-headed Woodcreeper, Black-crested Antshrike, Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher, Mouse-coloured Tyrannulet and Ochre-lored Flatbill. We also needed to find the far from ubiquitous and indeed threatened Hoary-throated Spinetail and so we buried ourselves in a thorny thicket and began. Several Spinetails began to call and they slowly crept in. A very pretty little furnarid. On the downside, we did not find the Guianan Gnatcatchers, Roraiman Antwrens, Fiery-shouldered Parakeets or Great Elaenias described in a well thumbed trip report of recent times. That is, since they don’t occur in the region, of course!

Giant River Otters (left) and Southern White-fringed Antwren (right) (Eustace Barnes).


Rufous-tailed Jacamar – a highly disjunct population restricted to Roraima and Rupununi (Jonathan Newman).

Anyway, it was time to go and so we retraced our steps across the immense open landscape with its wetlands and burning grasslands towards the muddled mess they call Karasabai.

A female Cream-coloured Woodpecker and a pair of Aplomado Falcons (PL)

Winding through the hills, on yet another baking afternoon, we crossed savannas, wetlands and gallery forests to that little village. A trully remote spot! Tucked away in the middle of nowhere on the Brazilian border sandwiched between two vast indigenous reserves. It is precisiely the protection afforded by this remoteness and the fierce native community that has allowed for the the survival of the Sun Parakeet. Without the extraordinary actions of a small number of people in Karasabai it is doubtful the Sun Parakeet would have a viable wild population at all. As it is, this somewhat unremarkable area and an otherwise unremarkable community plays host to the last barely sustainable population of this beautiful psittacid. As it happens, the population is at last increasing quite quickly. We arrived to indifference, as indeed is so typical of this community.


Sun Parakeet – one of thirty or so we saw at Karasabai (Jonathan Newman).

The area is interestring and we found a good number of more widley distributed open country and scrubby woodland species including Savanna Hawk, White-tailed Hawk, Lineated Woodpecker, Green-tailed Jacamar, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Red-eyed Vireo, Finsch’s Euphonia and Orange-backed Troupial. Red and green Macaw was notably common and we probably saw over 20 birds. Of the world of parrots we also saw good numbers of Brown-breasted Parakeets, Orange-winged and Yellow-crowned Amazons and a few Green-rumped Parrotlets.


The stunning Sun Parakeet (Thomas Reber).

However, less well known is that the tall woodlands here hold the orenocensis form of White-bellied Piculet We quickly connected with this very white-bellied form with little or no breast and flanks markings. We then continued to our stakeout for the parakeets which quickly appeared, allowing us to watch them at our leisure. Usually, we have to search a good deal harder to find this species. Apparently, the population has risen dramatically and, at this time of year, many trees are fruting making them easier to find.

Feeding quietly Sun Parakeets can be very unobtrusive (Eustace Barnes).


A male White-bellied Piculet (left) and Ferruginous Pygmy Owl (right) (Eustace Barnes)

So, this is most likely the form orenocensis of White-bellied Piculet. It is very common at Karasabai, along the Ireng river and in gallery forests throughout northern Roraima in Brazi. The distribution of taxa in the region points in this direction as well; there being many taxa occuring in the Llanos in Venezuela and the savannas of Roraima and Rupunini. A heavy-billed bird with no barring on the chest and only very light spots on the flanks of otherwise uniformly white, not yellowish, underparts. We did find a sinlge bird with sparse barring on the chest, although not on its throat or chin. This did cause Bernard to reflect on my hypothesis. This individual may either represent an indication that this population is intermediate between spilogaster and orenocensis or that there is hybridisation with White-barred Piculet or nothing. As I said, there is a need for more work on the piculets of the region and such variability may be irrelevant.

Crossing the savannas (Eustace Barnes)

Once we had spent the morning watching the Sun Parakeets and scrutinising the White-bellied Piculets we returned to base for a splendid lunch and to celebrate having found most of our principal target species in the southern savannas. We took a short break after lunch to write our notes, read through the guidebook and talk about the conservation of Sun Parakeets. We packed our bags and began to retrace our steps to the highway before heading to the Karanambu ranch, made famous by David Attenborough. It is at Karanambu where Diane McTurk took care of Giant River Otters orphaned by fishermen or hunters. Unfortunately, Diane has passed away since my last visit, but the otters were still present in good numbers. We had three nights at this splendid lodge, as finding Crestless Currassow has proven very difficult in the past. So, it was a belt and braces measure.


A Spotted Puffbird (left)and Grey-necked Wood-Rail (right) (Eustace Barnes)

Our first dawn excursion on the ranch was spent walking woodland trails, starting at a brisk pace in the half light, en route to a Capuchinbird lek. On arrival we were greeted with silence, but there were two birds frozen, watching us as we arrived! We then watched the brids displaying in the low canopy; inflating themselves in a highly ritualised procedure before emitting their extraordinary booming calls. Once the birds had finished and left, we continued birding the trails working our way back to the lodge through the short stature woodlands. A brief stop at a lake produced another six Giant River Otters which put on a great display. We then headed back to base for coffee and a break. A Crestless Currassow was briefly seen flying across the lagoon but not good enough to be the only mention the species would have on the list. Lesser kiskadee, Ringed and Amazon Kingfishers flew back and forth.

The extraordinary Capuchinbird (Eustace Barnes)


Finding a suitable arena in the woodlands I progressively taped in Striped and Buff-throated Woodcreeper, White-bellied, White-browed and Dusky Antbirds, Northern Slaty and Black-crested Antshrikes and White-flanked Antwren as well as Buff-breasted Wren and Slate-headed Tody-Flycatcher. A nice session. Heading to a similar spot with a more open arena we had a good look at Black Nunbird, Green-backed Trogon and Green-tailed Jacamars et al...

Crestless Curassow wandering along a lagoon edge (Jonathan Newman)

I had, on arrival, immediatley began to arrange an exhaustive schedule of boats trips in search of the above mentioned Cracid. Karanambu is now pretty much the only site where this rapidly declining species can be found with any degreee of certainty. I need not have worried, as, on our afternoon boat trip, a pair of Crestless Currassows were spotted ambling along a beach a coupkle of minutes up river! Engines cut we were able to watch them at length before they melted into the gallery woodlands. The principal targets of our visit bagged, we were able to enjoy searching for other species.

A Pied Plover (left)and Double-striped thick-knee (right) (Eustace Barnes)


Rufescent tigfer Heron at Mobai pond (Eustace Barnes)

So, we continued upriver to visit Mobai pond, which involved a short walk through seasonally flooded woodlands to the lake. We found Tiny Tyrant Manakin, Cinnamon Attila and Spotted Puffbird in the woodlands but little else. At the lake we were greeted with yet another group of Giant River Otters. We watched the group while searching the lake for Azure Gallinule with no luck. Rufescent Tiger Heron, a few Wattled Jacanas and some Kingfishers were all that put in an appearance. Our lodge bound boat trip produced more Green Ibis, Jabiru, Pied Lapwing and a Grey-necked Wood-Rail. Once the light began to fade a Collared Forest Falcon called and the languid tones of Red-legged Tinamous drifted through the forests while numerous Band-tailed Nighthawks began their crepuscular hawking around our boats along with thousands of Greater Fishing Bats.

Jabiru along the sandy river banks at Karanambu (Eustace Barnes).


Our afternoon exploring the open savannas produced another Bearded Tachuri, this time a superb male. Across the savannas, the marshes were mostly dry. We did see several Pinnated Bitterns and, at last and much to Denzil’s relief an Azure Gallinules. The area also produced Ruddy-breasted and Plumbeous Seedeaters, dozens of Grassland Yellow-Finches, White-headed Marsh Tyrant, Yellow-chinned Spinetail, Grassland Sparrows and many many Eastern Meadowlarks. Great Egret, Jabiru and a couple of Roseate Spoonbills decorated the sky. Night birding produced very little except a distant pair of Nacunda Nighthawks, a few Least Nighthawks and a couple of White-tailed Nightjars. So, it was back to the ranch for rum punch and more tales of do and dare.

Crested Doradito (left)and Bearded Tachuri (right) (Eustace Barnes)

The following morning we headed off to a marsh where, a few years back, Manuel had found Crested Doradito. On arrival we found to our horror that someone had burnt the marsh!!! This is a measure used by local communities to round up their horses. Incredible. Anyway, we did find a couple of Doraditos at what is almost certainly their best site. Manuel has undertaken a survey of the site and found as many as twenty eight birds, although we only found two. He has tried to raise money to protect the site but without success. We also found another female Bearded Tachuri at the site, along with several Pinnated Bitterns.

Wedge-tailed Grass-finch (left) and White-naped Xenopsaris (right) (Eustace Barnes)


Pinnated Bittern at the Doradito marsh (Eustace Barnes)

Exploring the savannas had been great. We had seen all of our targets and had great views of the lot. So, it was time to move on again. Entering the dust train we headed for Rock View at Annai; a delightful establishment owned and run by an eccentric Englishman called Colin. Once we had seen the preparation of Cashews and watched the Catfish being fed we headed off in search of another localised grassland tyrannid; the White-naped Xenopsaris. A few minutes after arrival and with some digital assistance the bird duly appeared in front of us for a good show. It looks a bit like a Becard and sounds like a Becard so maybe it is a Becard. Its time at this site is, perhaps, coming to end as the understorey is all but burnt out now. It remains rather more numerous in Roraima where burning is prohibited by the Brazilian authorities. I think the Xenopsaris was a new species for many. Anyway, we continued on our merry way to some gallery forest at Camoudi Bash. Said gallery forest was singularly unproductive, although we did see Black-chinned Antbird, a Green-backed Trogon, Rufous-browed Peppershrike and a superb Green and rufous Kinffisher. We also enjoyed watching large numbers of Yellow-crowned and Orange-winged Amazons and a few Red and green Macaws following the river.


Well before dusk we headed back to Rock View for dinner, a few beers and to prepare for the following day’s planned exertions. A trek to a rocky inselberg through a swathe of great forest. We were to be birding in rainforests from here on and therefore enduring an entirely different set of frustrations.For a start forest birding is always a challenge for those of us aflicted by deafness and poor sight. The light is often poor, the view is of varying shades of green and the birds all shy and or in the canopy 30m overhead.

Pinnated Bittern hiding in a marsh? (Eustace Barnes)


So, next morning, up and off shortly after we had retired for the night as we headed to the Amerindian settement of Wowetta. Arriving, with notable puntuality for the start of our rainforest hike to a Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock lek located high up on an isolated rocky outcrop overlooking superb terra firma forests. This was the start of our rainforest birding and proved a great morning/day. The walk began well enough with a Green Oropendola colony, a few Golden-headed Manakins at their daily dancing routines and a White-crested Spadebill. Of more importance, I had planned to spend more time searching for Blue-backed Tanager at the beginning of the hike and not thend as we had missed it last time. We heard and connected with a superb pair of this uncommmon canopy nomad. Very satisfying.

Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock at his court (Ed Wilson)

We hit a couple of mixed flocks and worked the usual process of extracting the flock constituents for all to see. These included Dusky-throated and Cinereous antshrikes; the flock sentinals and pirates. Then also, White-flanked, Brown-bellied and Rufous-bellied Antwrens, Amazonian, Fasciated and Mouse-coloured Antshrikes, Tawny-crowned Greenlet, Whiskered Myiobius and a Cinereous Mourner. All good stuff and a welcome change from the savanna birding. After these distractions we finally began to climb to the lek where we were able to watch the antics of the ultimate jungle dandy; the Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock. We spent some time watching the males at their courts and seeing them chase one another around, glowing like fireballs in the greenery.

Guianan Red Cotinga; same bird, same tree, different tour (Eustace Barnes)


Retracing our steps, the most important issue was our appointment with a superb male Guianan Red Cotinga. What a spectacular bird and we saw it so well. Always a joy to see these beautiful and somewhat retiring denizens of the evergreen gloom glowing in the understorey. It always comes from the same direction and always sits in the same tree. So, at some point missable; being predictable makes for easy snacks for Forest Falcons. It was late and so we made our way to the village for lunch in the village.

Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock at court (Eustace Barnes).

On to the famous Surama lodge, which was under reconstruction. We arrived in good time and had an evening session that produced little or note except a Common Potoo. It can be good at Surama but on this occasion a bit flat.

Surama savanna island (Eustace Barnes)


So, on to Atta Lodge this time, stopping to walk the road and a short section of Harpy Eagle trail. Although the eagle is not in residence much these days, the area is generally good for birding. The primary objective of the exercise was to find fruiting trees and search out some of the more colurful inhabitants of these immense forests. Early morning and we began our search for the aforementioned mega-targets. We saw numerous White-throated and Channel-billed Toucans, Green and Black-necked Aracaris and a single Guianan Toucanet. Our first fruiting tree gave us Little Chachalaca, a female Pompadour Cotinga and numerous Red-legged and Purple Honeycreepers, Flame-crested Tanager, Guianan Tyrannulet and a pair of Sulphury Flycatchers. Birding was good (except for Denzil) with a steady stream of new species for us to scrutinise, including our first Golden-collared and Yellow-tufted Woodpeckers and good numbers of both Red and green and Scarlet Macaws. Our second fruiting tree was altogether better with as many as five Pompadours Cotingas, including three males. There were also three Purple-breasted Cotingas and a pair of Spangled Cotingas making for the best such experience for these birds. Walking the well known trail to the Harpy Eagle nest (the birds not being present this year) we worked a couple of understorey flocks again; Dusky-throated and Cinerous Antshrikes and Brown-bellied Antwrens with the occasional Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper kept us entertained for a while. Then lunch and it was time to get to the Atta lodge.

The superb Crison Fruitcrow (Ed Wilson).

This magnificent location provides a number of great options to search for the numerous target species found in the vicinity of our lodgings. We divided our time between birding the entrance track and main road, the forest trails and the canopy walkway a short distance from our lodge. On our first afternoon I planned to watch the fruiting trees around the lodge clearing and then walk out to the highway. Around the clearing we were set up all facing the right direction and appraised of the the behaviour and movement of our principal target: the rare Crimson Fruitcrow. After some time looking at Paradise Jacamars, Black-tailed Tityras, Green Oropendolas and the various Screaming Pihas, Plumbeous Pigeons and yet more Spangled Cotingas in a large fruiting Cercropia we were rewarded with reasonable views of a female Crimson Fruitcrow. A large group of Purple-throated Fruitcrows seemed to be circumnavigating the clearing almost continuously calling as thery went and providing a constant distraction.


Black Curassow at Atta (Eustace Barnes).

So it was off to the highway; we were treated to Cream-coloured and Ringed Woodpecker and good numbers of parrots and macaws. At the first bridge we saw a fine male Crimson Topaz and a pair of Sunbitterns. A Pavonine Cuckoo and Cinereous Tinamou called from the darkening interior but we began to retrace our steps in search of more important targets.

The pretty Black-faced Hawk (Eustace Barnes)


As dusk settled, the eerie whistles of White-winged Potoo could be heard. There were three birds and they flew from perch to perch, with one finally settleing for us to see. So that was Crimson Fruitcrow and White-winged Potoo on the same day!! That’s the second time we have managed that. We did then see the Potoo the following night. Delon, the local guide, knew which perches the bird uses. On our last morning the Fruitcrow also put in another appearance.

Low hills around Atta. From July they ring to the call of White Bellbird (Eustace Barnes).

Atta lodge is one of those places that leaves an impression; it is hemmed in on all sides by tall forest. In the early morning the deafening roar of Howlers, ear splitting shrieks of innumerable parrots, macaws and Spix’s Guans shake the buildings while throughout the day the piercing whistles of Screaming Pihas echo around the tiny clearing. It all adds up to the ultimate wilderness experience and certainly one never forgotten!

Screaming Piha and Purple-throated Fruitcrow are both common around the clearing at Atta( Eustace Barnes)


Guianan Puffbird seen from the canopy walkway (Eustace Barnes).

So, that was our first afternoon. The following day was a carefully planned complex schedule. First thing we watched the clearing and found our first Marail Guans in the Cercropia. A good start. Then we headed back to the highway in search of various target species, where we found several pairs of Blue-cheeked Amazons, a big target for the tour. We also saw Black-headed Parrots, Yellow-crowned, Southern Mealy and Orange-winged Amazons, a few Red fan Parrots, numerous pairs of Scarlet Macaws and all the toucans, including Guianan Toucanet, again. Guianan Puffbird sat up in its usual tree along with many of the aformentioned species. A stunning male Rose-breasted Chat was then called in, much to general approval. Time to return to the lodge clearing where we watched patiently as a number of species were picked up; these included Yellow-throated Flycatcher, Paradise Jacamar, more Spangled Cotingas and Purple-throated Fruitcrows. A quick session in search of Black-faced Hawk quickly produced the goods, as we located a single bird sat in the open in one of ‘his’ favorite trees.

The beautiful Sunbittern and Lineated Woodpecker can both be seen at ‘the bridge’ (Eustace Barnes)


The Atta boys had devoted some considerable time to finding another great bird; the Rufous Potoo. So, we headed off to see this stunning species at a day-time roost. Exceptional, although it is now the norm!

Rufous Potoo – how often does this bird appear in trip reports? (Jonathan Newman)

We spent a good deal of time wandering around the site looking at the bird from a number of angles. When a little spooked it rocked back and forth and blinked at us. All the while there was a mixed flock overhead, but the various antwrens we had not yet seen remained out of sight. Todd’s and Spot-tailed Antwrens, Wing-barred Piprites, Yellow-crowned tyrannulet and so on. As it was hopeless to look we then headed back, stopping at the Mori Scrub where we found several Black Manakins, a Rufous-crowned Eleania and a pair of Bronzy Jacamars before the crushing heat forced our retreat to the lodge. The Jacamars are not always so obvious but at this time of year they have young and call every now and then.


Bronzy Jacamar; same bird, same tree, same branch, different tour (Jonathan Newman(rt)and Eustace Barnes (lt))

It was hot. We had our target species and so we headed back to Atta for lunch and an afternoon watching the flocks around the clearing. Indeed, the clearing can be very productive and we enjoyed some good sightings of a number of species. These included Black-spotted Barbet, Black-tailed Tityras, Guianan Tyrannulet, Purple-breasted Cotinga, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Black-faced and Blue Dacnis, Green Honeycreeper, more Red-necked and Crimson-crested Woodpeckers and, of course, the resident Black Currassow. We then made a quick late afternoon visit to the canopy walkway where we worked through Todd’s and Spot-tailed Antwrens, Buff-cheeked and Lemon-chested Greenlets, Red-legged, Purple and Green Homeycreepers and a number of Flame-crested, Paradise, Bay-headed and Spotted Tanagers etc etc. We also found Green Aracari, our first Waved Woodpeckers and a pair of Golden-sided Euphonias. I should also report that we encontered no sweat bees.

The Guyana crew on the walkway (Delon)


A spot of night birding? Why not, and so we headed along the highway a few kilometers and waited out a Black-banded Owl. Soon after dark, one duly showed up and gave the proverbial stellar views. On this occasion, in the various scopes at our disposal. Again, another mega moment among many and the poor thing did not even make the top ten! How is that possible? Well the other sightings and target species just swept them off that radar.

Black-banded Owl; not the same bird as before.

The trail system at Atta has been extended and now includes quite a number of great routes through the tall forests around the lodge. Again we started our last morning watching the clearing with good views of Marail Guan and all the other hangers on. We had to wait but eventually the female Crimson Fruitcrow put in another appearance and time we got great views. So, time to hit the trails for another secretive inhabitant of the understorey; the Red and black Grosbeak. We began a steady search through open forest and seemingly sparse understorey. We heard the indistinct contact calls of a couple of birds, but they quickly melted away and we moved on to be treated to the same experience again. They can be mighty difficult to actually see and I could sense the troops were getting a bit restless. Still, that’s part of being a leader and on we went, quietly walking the trail. A little later and more quiet calls. A bit of playback, some indistinct movements in the understorey and there they were. Two males and a female chasing around about four or five meters off the ground. It would be great if they put in a long trail around the hill behind the walkway. I would think that this would be where Wing-banded Antbird, Black-faced Antthrush, the various Leaftossers, Guianan Gnatcatcher and Olive-green Tyrannulet might be found. A watchpoint from the hill top would give better raptor and, indeed, swift watching.


The crepuscular Green Ibis and an obliging Great Jacamar (Eustace Barnes)

We then headed off to another area of taller white sand forest, which was less productive, although we did find a very cooperative Guianan Schiffornis.Time perhaps for that well rehersed biogeography. Central Guyana is covered by a vast swathe of rainforest, housing much of the country’s biodiversity. Rainforests may appear uniform but, in reality, are comprised of a complex mosaic of forest types determined by drainage, flood periodicity, edaphic factors, slope, aspect and elevation. One of the most distinctive forest types is White Sand forest; a type of forest that developed on relictual dune systems deposited as the Amazon basin extended eastwards and the Andes were pushed up. The Mori Scrub and others we visit are such areas of White sand forest and so we returned to this fascinating area again in time for a good show from the skulking denizens of this dense habitat. These and a few other species are only found in white sand forests, which have recently received a lot of attention from biologists with the discovery of new species in Peru. Although few of the specialties have been found in the white sand forests of Guyana it is true to say that little field work has been conducted in them and few birders have devoted much time to them. However, recently the Pelzeln’s tody Tyrant has been found to occur in Guyana; a rare species, which we did not find but we did find Rufous-tailed Flatbill. A species our very competant guide had not come across before. The Tody-Tyrant was almost certainly getting the full digital treament from passing bird groups and so proving a bit elusive. Actually, it is a difficult bird to connect with anyway, as it spends its time fussing about in the canopy and not in roadside scrub as its sister species, the Pearly-vented tody Tyrant does. Anyway, lunch was in prospect and it was hot, hot, hot and so we retreated.

The view over the Essequibo river from the veranda at Iwokrama (Eustace Barnes)


It is somewhat unfortunate that we have to travel in canvoy, as enevitably the front vehicle sees something those behind miss. And so it proved, as the front vehicle found a Jaguar sat by the road and while waiting for the vehicles behind to catch up, a distant motorcycle spooked the animal and it vanished into the forest. So, unfortunate, but enevitable at some point. Iwokrama. is a stunning place and very different from Atta, located as it is adjacent to a wide river. Our time here is usually divided between the spectacular forests of the entrance track, the river edge habitats and the Turtle Mountain trail that climbs to a watch point that looks out over the vast swathes of forest described above.

Blue and yellow Macaw. Surely one of thre best birds? (Eustace Barnes)

Staying at Iwokrama is simply part of the basic More walking + more Sites = More Birds equation. The entrance track and Turtle mountain trail can be good for mixed flocks and a number of other species not readily found at Atta. We worked the track on a couple of occasions but found very little. We did connect with a single Rufous-throated Antbird, an Amazonian Barred Woodcreeper and a small understorey flock but very little else. There are often army ants here and it can be good for the obligates but on this tour we did not connect with army ants or their faithful attendants at any point. An Amazonian Pygmy Owl called incessantly from the canopy of a tall emergent, but try as we might we could not locate it. Around the clearing there were a few pairs of Moriche Orioles, Chestnut-bellied and Yellow-bellied Seedeaters and Giant Cowbirds. Watching from the Veranda we did see Blue and Yellow Macaws heading off to their roost and on the river, at the rapids, we found Large-billed and Yellow-billed Terns. The river, as is typical for black water riverds, held held little life and we only found a few Great Egrets, a group of seven Capped Herons a few Neotropic Cormorants and a couple of Anhingas. The rocky islands in the river hold good numbers of Black-collared Swallows and we made sure to go and have close look at the pretty little things.


Yellow-billed Tern (left) and Large-billed Tern (right)(Eustace Barnes)

The trail up Turtle Mountain is always intersting, and our day was to be productive but not as productive as the last tour. Once on the trail we set off across the flood plain. We quickly heard a Spotted Antpitta calling some distance away. Was this to be the one we committed or carry on? Rather fortunately we did not have to worry for long or even go off trail. The bird came in and perched on an inconspicuous log, but eventually we all mamanged great views of this very pretty little antpitta. A highlight for many. Next, the clack…clack of bill snapping from a Ground-cuckoo. I hurriedly arranged the group and the call was made, but no response. A male began to boom very distantly but did not budge. After forty minutes or so we agreed to call it a day on that and carried on. As we began toi climb, each at their own pace, we did make the 215m ascent from the floodplain to the summit. Once on top, I waited until we were all assembled, fired up the speakers and nothing happened. No Falcon! That was a first at this site. We did see a White Hawk and a few Macaws but nothing else.

Looking out over the Essequibo river from Turlte mountain (Eustace Barnes).


Then it really was time to get back to base for lunch and a well earned rest as it was already well after midday. The afternoon, what little remained of it, was spent taking a boat trip to see Black-collared Swallows and a few Blue and yellow Macaws along the river. Thereafter, we had a pleasant evening recalling the highlights of the day and others during the tour. Too many really.

Great Egret fishing the white waters (Eustace Barnes).

It was at this point, we realised that the real planetary focus was the mass hysteria generated by Covid-19. It sometimes seems to me that the more tied down we are by the compexity of work routines and tight budgetary constraints along with the demands of our beloved administrators the less able we are to adapt to anything. Anyway, back to birding.

Crossing the Essequibo river early morning (Eustace Barnes)


Grey-winged Trumpeters; cryptically patterned. Easy to miss, even when only a few meters away (Eustace Barnes.)

The following morning we departed Iwokrama at a good hour with our trusty, highly experienced driver and headed for Georgetown, quite some distance away. Our very patient driver gave us the time we wanted to do quite a bit of birding in the tall forest on the east bank of the Essequibo. We caught up with a number of commoner species we had not taken the time to look for until now. Of more interest were two family groups of Grey-winged Trumpeters. An iconic species we had not connected with during our all to brief stay at Atta. We hammered on, battling the muddy potholed horror that is the highway to Georgetown (sounds like a bad rock song). Incredible as it seems, the driver did not scrape the bottom of the van once and seemed to know every bend, pothole and bridge along the entire route. We did make a number of additional stops, seeing a wide variety of species ‘with which we had become familiar’ but not the dusky Purpletuft, with which we were hoping to become familiar. We carried on to Georgetown. The road is progressively becoming worse as plans to redevelop it gather pace. The Chinese, the British and the Brazilian are all vying to get the contract to build the new highway, connecrting Georgetown to Brazil and open up the interior to logging, mining and agricultural development. Let’s face it, we need to get started on that as soon as possible. Afterall, there are a lot of resources just going to waste out there.


Rufous Crab Hawk. Now declining across much of its range (Eustace Barnes).

Our final day was to be spent to the east of Georgetown. We headed along the coast to the Abary Road site, where most of the woodland has been cleared and where we did not enjoy the field breakfast provided by the hotel. Anyway, the birds were behaving, and we tracked down several White-bellied Piculets, a pair of Blood-coloured Woodpeckers and a pair of Rufous Crab Hawks. As the tide was rising, we headed back to Georgetown, stopping to search several areas of mangroves and mudflats. As noted in previous reports, all these areas had been severely damaged by storms and again held no waders, herons or egrets. We did, however, stop to walk along a section of the sea wall where recently planted mangroves were growing well. Here we did find good numbers of Yellow-crowned and Black-crowned Night Herons along with Solitary Sandpiper, Tricoloured Heron and Green Kingfishers, Yellow Warbler and Northern Waterthrush. Crimson-crested Woodpeckers, Black-crested and Barred Antshrikes also performed nicely so making a pleasant birdy interlude. The mangroves at Hope beach remained a mess with the ripped-up tree trunks piled up against the remnant woodlands. The mudflats still held no waders and it was indeed hopeless to persist with the wader bashing described in the brochure and previous tour reports. Since list padding is have never been part of the BirdQuest MO we cut our losses and returned to Georgetown for a late lunch and more indistinguishable flavours of ice cream. So, no waders to pad out the list! We did not even take the time to stop at Glazier’s Lust or the nearby Rebecca’s Lust to see what these charming settlements had to offer. We did wonder if the Glazier fancied Rebecca and what she made of his feelings. In any event their feelings are immortalized in the urban settlement nomenclature of Guyana. So, we would just have to content ourselves with remembering the Crimson Fruitcrow, Rufous Potoo etc.


Festive Amazon (Amazona festiva bodinii) (Eustace Barnes)

The afternoon was then given to another stint in the Botanical gardens where we had great views of Festive Amazon and a pair of Toco Toucans.


We then headed to the Demerera bridge to see the Egret and Scarlet Ibis roost. We only enjoyed seeing a few Ibis because time was short and we could not wait until dusk, as we had flights to catch. That, as they say was that, the end of the tour! How did that happen so quickly? A mega trip packed with so many highlights it was hard to pick out a top ten species but we managed.

The regal Black Curassow: a highlight of this tour (Eustace Barnes)

However, not over yet! On to Suriname for a few days to try and mop up the remaining Guianan specialities in the extensive wastelands found in that country. There was to be a complication; that being that your leader was denied boarding owing to the age of his Yellow Fever certificate! (They do not go out of date).The group got through to Paramaribo to meet up with Sean and carry on, without a problem. Marvellous, but not for me. After a significant delay, your leader was also on his way to Suriname, but overland, the age of said certificate, conceded as unimportant. Having been variously offered illegal passage (by Haitian people smugglers hanging about at the airport) and suitable payments to get on a flight (bribery) I went for the more prosaic option. Renewed my Yellow Fever certificate for $2.50, and, departing at 3am on a mammouth journey, headed to the border; a long taxi ride, a bus, a boat trip, another bus ride and finally a taxi. An interesting journey that started with the recitation of parables from the old testament in the taxi at 3am! Damnation and furious vengence being ideal themes for me to contemplate in the early hours. The entire trip, but perhaps especially the journey from the border to Paramaribo, could have been the subject of a Tarantino movie. It involved a minibus packed with fifteen or so Haitians, Venezuelans, an assortment of illegal Guyanans and me. Off we set, crammed in to a tiny van together with a Chestnut-bellied Seedeater in a cage lodged on the console between myself and the driver. Along the narrow uneven surface called highway 1, the speed crept up to about 140km per hour, while the driver, using a couple of mobiles was arranging the next run. I got the impression business was good with Venezuelans and Haitians fleeing to Brazil. The Guyanans started kicking off, smoking joints and drinking a few beers adding to my discomfort. On arrival at the city limits, the various passengers were dropped off at their pre-arrangned safe houses on the outskirts of the city. The stuff of novels!


So, Ian has put together the daily write up for the report for Suriname. Arriving at 23.00, Sean immediately headed to a Striped Owl stakeout near the airport. No luck, but Little Tinamou, Common Potoo and Paraque were heard. Sean (Seen) was on strict orders to search out species we had not seen in Guyana, leaving him with a challenge, but one he was well able to meet. Striped Owl did stray somewhat, but, nice try. Leaving sometime before any rest was obtained, the first stop was the mosaic of rainforest and white sand forests around Leyldorp. We soon scored the near endemic Arrowhead Piculet. This was followed by another red bird; the ‘drop-dead’ gorgeous Crimson-hooded Manakin. Then a few Green-throated Mangos in some flowering trees. Moving on, we stopped briefly for a roadside Slender-billed Kite, before heading to white-sand forest nearby. We did not find Smoky-fronted Tody-Tyrant or the newly erected Campina Thrush but we did connect with the ‘modestly attired’ Saffron-crested Tody-Tyrant. More work required here I think.

Long-winged Harrier is common on the coastal plain (Eustace Barnes).

Next was the climb up to Brownsberg. The ramshackle accomodations here, suffering no maintenance scheule to interfere with their gentle decline, quite pssibly since they were built. To make things worse, as there had been no rain, there was no water! That is, despite the fact that the reserve overlooks the vast Brokopondo reservoir! Anyway, the group managed and the reservoir viewpoint proved to be THE place to see Guianan Red Howler and White-faced Saki Monkeys. Birding produced our first big target; the localized White-throated Peewee followed by White-fronted Manakin. A second owling session produced the Foothill Screech Owl for the more dedicated. Targets listed, it was time to go but not before padding-up with Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner, Black-headed Antshrike, a very co-operative Musician Wren and a tree full of Lilac-tailed Parrotlets, to name but a few. That final morning at Brownsberg was notable for several reasons; Lined Forest Falcon finally surrendered, Denzil spotted a Collared Puffbird and a roosting Crested Owl was located. All good stuff, packing out the list with more widely distributed quality species. Departing the delights of a waterless plateau, we headed for the Sarakreek road. Our base being another ramshackle arrangment of structures, intruigingly called Fred’s Place’. On arrival the second major target was bagged: the Band-tailed Antshrike, followed by Todd’s Sirystes. The lodge Hummingbird feeders yielded


Straight-billed Hermit. The following morning a Zig-zag Heron was tracked down just before dawn; a great addition to the list. We then worked through a great many species already seen in Guyana, but still no Dusky Purpletuft. Why were they being so tricky on this tour?

Harpy Eagle is regularly seen on this tour (Eustace Barnes)

The final morning was truly memorable; starting with a chorus of Red-fan Parrots, assorted Psittacids and Toucans. Now, Guyana does offer a good chance to see Harpy Eagle and we were disappointed not to have seen one there, but adding time in prime habitat increases one’s chances. We were to be in luck. A huge eagle flew across and landed in an open tree right in front of the group: an adult Harpy Eagle – the stuff of dreams! Later on, a canopy flock produced Glossy-backed Becard for some and Todd’s Sirystes for others. After lunch we headed to the airport with that immortal BQ phrase ringing in our heads; ‘we were sorry indeed, when the time came to leave this wonderful place’. Cliché’s aside, a great tour packed with a long list of highlights. (Many thanks to Ian Lewis for putting together the Suriname write up. It has been edited down to keep things at around 15,000 words! Can you believe it, that is bigger than most PhDs!). Top Ten species of the tour. Sun Parakeet – one of the most stunning Psittacids. The only place to see it now. Red Siskin – critical now. In any event a stunner. The only place to see this species. Guianan Red Cotinga – looks more beautiful every time I see it. The easiest tour on which to see this bird. Crimson Fruitcrow – superb views. Nowhere easier or better to see this bird. Rufous Potoo – what a bonus. One of two places to see this bird. Capuchinbird – lek at 5 meters above your head. Can’t be beaten. It is the best lek. Crestless Currassow – we have cracked this one, and it is the only place to see it now. Harpy Eagle – luck required for this one but your chances are high on this tour. Crimson-hooded Manakin – a real cracker.

So, the tour will develop with Suriname as a great extension; seeing many of those specialties, unavailable in Guyana. We are also planning a ‘pre-tour’ to the Tepui region, where we have sites for Roraiman Nightjar and many of the Tepui endemics, now unavailable with Venezuela closed. It seems likely this element of the tour will expand to fill the gap created by that closure.


Guianan Cock-of-the-Rock – an extraordinary creature, indicative of complex tropical evolutionary processes (Eustace Barnes).


Azure Gallinule; an intra-tropical migrant present April-September (Eustace Barnes).

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR The species names and taxonomy used in the report mostly follows Gill, F & D Donsker (Eds). IOC World Bird Names. This list is updated several times annually and is available at http://www.worldbirdnames.org. Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were only recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (L). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL). All species recorded in Suriname indicated by symbol (SE). All species heard only in Suriname indicated by symbol (H/SE). All species recorded only (heard or seen) by the leader in Suriname indicated by the symbol (L/SE). Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).

Great Tinamou Tinamus major A few heard and another seen exploding from the forest floor one afternoon. Cinereous Tinamou ◊ Crypturellus cinereus (H) Heard near Atta, uncommon here. More numerous Suriname. Little Tinamou Crypturellus soui (H/SE) Heard Suriname Red-legged Tinamou ◊ Crypturellus erythropus (H) Several heard along the Rupununi river. (H/SE). Variegated Tinamou Crypturellus variegatus (H/SE) Heard Suriname

White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata Several hundred seen near Manari in the south. Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata A flock of twenty seen Karanambu. Small numbers elsewhere. Brazilian Teal Amazonetta brasiliensis A pair noted near Wichabai. Little Chachalaca Ortalis motmot Several seen near the ranch at Karanambu and elsewhere. Also (SE) Marail Guan ◊ Penelope marail A few seen at dawn feeding on Cercropias at Atta. Spix's Guan Penelope jacquacu Only seen on a couple of occasions.


CRESTLESS CURASSOW ◊ Mitu tomentosum A pair seen together at Karanambu. Superb. Black Curassow Crax alector Several groups noted. Also (SE) Crested Bobwhite Colinus cristatus Very common this year on the savannas. Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus Seen on the savannas near Manari. Pied-billed Grebe Podilymbus podiceps A few noted near Manari. Wood Stork Mycteria americana Several huge flocks noted near Manari and at Karanambu. Maguari Stork Ciconia maguari Surprising numbers seen near Manari. Jabiru Jabiru mycteria Small numbers in the southern savannas. Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus Common and increasing in the south. SHARP-TAILED IBIS ◊ Cercibis oxycerca Four seen at Wichabai. Rarely see now and a rare bird in the region. Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis Several seen at Karanambu and elsewhere. Scarlet Ibis Eudocimus ruber A few on the coast. Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja Several seen at Manari and Karanambu. Rufescent Tiger Heron Tigrisoma lineatum A couple at Karanambu Agami Heron Agamia agami (LO) One seen briefly at Karanambu. Pinnated Bittern Botaurus pinnatus Seen at Wichabai and Karanambu where quite common. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Seen at Karanambu and on the coast. Yellow-crowned Night Heron Nyctanassa violacea Common along the coast. Striated Heron Butorides striata Common on the coast. ZIG-ZAG HERON ◊ Zebrilus undulates Seen (SE). An extension specialty. At Karanambu during the big wet. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Seen around Georgetown and in the south. Also (SE). Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi Small numbers throughout. Great Egret Ardea alba Common in the south and on the coast. Also (SE). Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus A flock of seven at Iwokrama. Tricolored Heron Egretta tricolor A few on the coast. Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea Seen on the coast. Also (leader only SE). Snowy Egret Egretta thula A commonly recorded bird. Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis A single bird seen on the coast. Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus Fairly common this year at Karanambu. Anhinga Anhinga anhinga Several noted. Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura Common. Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus Common on the savannas. Also (SE). Greater Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes melambrotus A common species at Atta. Also around Paramaribo (SE). Black Vulture Coragyps atratus Abundant. Also (SE). King Vulture Sarcoramphus papa A few noted. Western Osprey (American O) Pandion [haliaetus] carolinensis Commonly seen northern migrant. White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus A single bird at Karanambu. Also (SE). Grey-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis A single displaying bird at Atta. Swallow-tailed Kite Elanoides forficatus A few noted. HARPY EAGLE ◊ Harpia harpyja Seen (SE), Sarakreek road. Black Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus tyrannus Seen (SE). Ornate Hawk-Eagle Spizaetus ornatus (H/SE). Long-winged Harrier Circus buffoni A couple seen at Karanambu. 10 seen en route to Paramaribo (L/SE). Plumbeous Kite Ictinia plumbea A few seen. Also (SE). Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis A couple noted. Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis A common species in Georgetown. Slender-billed Kite Helicolestes hamatus (SE). Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens One noted Karanambu. RUFOUS CRAB HAWK ◊ Buteogallus aequinoctialis A couple noted on the coast. Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis Very common in the south. Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga A few noted. Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris Common along the rivers. White-tailed Hawk Geranoaetus albicaudatus Abundant on the savannas. Also (SE). White Hawk Pseudastur albicollis One seen on Turtle mountain. Also (SE).


Black-faced Hawk ◊ Leucopternis melanops A single bird at Atta. Also (SE). Grey-lined Hawk Buteo nitidus Several pairs noted throughout. Also (SE). Zone-tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus One seen in the botanical gardens in Georgetown. Also (LO) Paramaribo. Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus Seen (SE). Sunbittern Eurypyga helias A couple at Karanambu and Atta. Grey-necked Wood Rail Aramides cajaneus One noted at Karanambu, another heard at Arbary road. Russet-crowned Crake Laterallus viridis

Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinica Common. Azure Gallinule Porphyrio flavirostris A single bird seen very well at Karanambu. Grey-winged Trumpeter ◊ Psophia crepitans As usual only common on east side of Essequibo river. Also (SE). Limpkin Aramus guarauna A common species. Double-striped Thick-knee Burhinus bistriatus An uncommon species on the savannas. Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis Common in the south and the north. Semipalmated Plover (W) Charadrius semipalmatus A few on the coast. Pied Plover Hoploxypterus cayanus A few along the Rupununi river. Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana Abundant. Also (SE). South American Snipe Gallinago paraguaiae A single bird flushed near Karanambu. Spotted Sandpiper (W) Actitis macularius Commonly noted. Solitary Sandpiper (W) Tringa solitaria A common wintering bird. Whimbrel Numenius hudsonicus Several seen on the coast Semipalmated Sandpiper Calidris pusilla (L/SE) Seen Peperpot in small numbers. Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla Seen Demerera bridge (From Ian’s photos) Lesser Yellowlegs Tringa flavipes Small numbers seen Arbary road mudflats. Yellow-billed Tern Sternula superciliaris A single bird on the Essequibo. Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex A few on the Essequibo river. Rock Dove (introduced) Columba livia Least said. Scaled Pigeon Patagioenas speciosa Seen along the highway. Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis Common along rivers. Also (SE). Plumbeous Pigeon Patagioenas plumbea A few seen and heard. Also (SE). Ruddy Pigeon Patagioenas subvinacea Recorded at all rainforest sites. Also (H/SE). Common Ground Dove Columbina passerine Common in the south. Also (SE). Plain-breasted Ground Dove Columbina minuta A few noted in the south. Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti Commonly recorded. Also (SE). Blue Ground Dove Claravis pretiosa (H) Heard only. White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi Commonly seen. Grey-fronted Dove Leptotila rufaxilla (H) Very few heard. Also (H/SE). Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata A very common species. Greater Ani Crotophaga major A few noted at the Botanical gardens. Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani Common to abundant. Also (SE). Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia Seen in the Botanical gardens. Pavonine Cuckoo Dromococcyx pavoninus (H) Heard at Atta. A good write-in. Might have to look for this in future. Rufous-winged Ground Cuckoo ◊ Neomorphus rufipennis (H) Despite some effort, a no-show at Turtle mountain. Little Cuckoo Coccycua minuta (H) Heard Georgetown. Also (L/SE) around Paramaribo, where numerous. Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana Commonly recorded. Also (SE). Tropical Screech Owl Megascops choliba (H) Heard at Surama and Karanambu. Seen (SE) Foothill Screech Owl ◊ Megascops roraimae Seen Brownsberg plateau (SE). Amazonian Pygmy Owl Glaucidium hardyi (H) Heard at Atta and Iwokrama. Also (H/SE). Ferruginous Pygmy Owl Glaucidium brasilianum A few noted. Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia A few seen in the savannas in the south. Also (SE). Crested Owl Lophostrix cristata (SE) only. A spectacular night bird. Black-banded Owl Ciccaba huhula A single bird seen near Atta. Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus Seen at Surama and Karanambu. (H/SE) Heard Suriname WHITE-WINGED POTOO ◊ Nyctibius leucopterus A couple seen very well at Atta. RUFOUS POTOO ◊ Nyctibius bracteatus A single bird seen at a day roost. Absolutely superb.


Nacunda Nighthawk Chordeiles nacunda A few seen distantly at Karanambu. Least Nighthawk Chordeiles pusillus septentrionalis Commonly seen in the savannas. Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis A few noted. (H/SE) Heard Suriname. Band-tailed Nighthawk Nyctiprogne leucopyga Common at Karanambu. Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis Seen Surama. Not a good time of year for Nightjars. (H/SE) Heard Suriname. White-tailed Nightjar Hydropsalis cayennensis A few noted on the savannas. Band-rumped Swift Chaetura spinicaudus A common species. Also (SE). Chapman's Swift ◊ Chaetura chapmani Four high over the canopy at Atta and one seen very well drinking. Short-tailed Swift Chaetura brachyura Common. Also (SE). Neotropical Palm Swift Tachornis squamata Another common swift. Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift Panyptila cayennensis Seen (SE) only. Rufous-breasted Hermit Glaucis hirsutus A bird seen in rainforest understory on a few occasions. Also (SE). Pale-tailed Barbthroat Threnetes leucurus Seen (SE) only Long-tailed Hermit Phaethornis superciliosus Seen at a large lek near Woowetta. Also (SE). Reddish Hermit Phaethornis ruber A few seen around the lodge at Atta Black-throated Mango Anthracothorax nigricollis A few. Also (SE). Green-throated Mango ◊ Anthracothorax viridigula Seen (SE) only. Crimson Topaz ◊ Topaza pella A fine male at Atta. Also (SE). Ruby-topaz Hummingbird Chrusolampis mosquitus Seen (SE) only. Tufted Coquette ◊ Lophornis ornate Seen (SE) only. Blue-tailed Emerald* Chlorostilbon mellisugus (L/SE) Seen at Peperpot Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata A few noted. Also (SE). Rufous-throated Sapphire Hylocharis sapphirina A single male at Wichabai. Also (SE). White-tailed Goldenthroat Polytmus guainumbi A superb adult watched at length at Karanambu. Green-tailed Goldenthroat Polytmus theresiae (SE) only. Plain-bellied Emerald ◊ Amazilia leucogaster Seen on flowering shrubs in Georgetown. White-chested Emerald Amazilia brevirostris A few noted. Glittering-throated Emerald Amazilia fimbriate A common species. Also (SE). Black-eared Fairy Heliothryx auratus A few seen at Atta. Also (SE). Long-billed Starthroat Heliomaster longirostris A single bird seen near Wichabai. Green-backed Trogon (Amazonian White-tailed T) Trogon viridis Several pairs noted throughout. Also (H/SE). Guianan Trogon Trogon violaceus Several noted. Also (H/SE). Black-throated Trogon Trogon rufus (H/SE). American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea A single bird at Karanambu seen by a few of us. Green and rufous Kingfisher Chloroceryle inda A superb female at Camoudi bash and others at Karanambu. Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana A few noted. Also (SE). Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona Seen at Karanambu. Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata The common Kingfisher. Also (SE). Amazonian Motmot Momota momota (H/SE). Brown Jacamar Brachygalba lugubris lugubris Seen (SE). A species with disjunct populations. Yellow-billed Jacamar Galbula albirostris Seen only (SE). Bronzy Jacamar ◊ Galbula leucogastra A species seen in the white sand forests. Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda Seen near Manari and Karasabai. Green-tailed Jacamar Galbula Galbula The common Jacamar. Paradise Jacamar Galbula dea Seen around the clearing at Atta. Also (SE). Great Jacamar Jacamerops aureus Seen several times. Guianan Puffbird ◊ Notharchus macrorhynchos A pair seen near Atta. Also (H/SE). Spotted Puffbird Bucco tamatia Seen at Karanambu. Collared Puffbird Bucco capensis Recorded (SE) only. Black Nunbird Monasa atra A few noted. Also (SE). Swallow-winged Puffbird Chelidoptera tenebrosa A common species. Also (SE). Black-spotted Barbet Capito niger A few seen. Green Aracari Pteroglossus viridis Quite a number of pairs noted this year. Black-necked Aracari Pteroglossus Aracari A common species. Also (SE).


Guianan Toucanet ◊ Selenidera piperivora A pair noted Atta on two days. Also (SE). Channel-billed Toucan Ramphastos vitellinus A common species. Also (SE). Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco A pair found in the botanical gardens. White-throated Toucan Ramphastos tucanus A common species. Also (SE). Golden-spangled Piculet Picumnus exilis A species seen at Karanambu. White-bellied Piculet ◊ Picumnus spilogaster orenocensis A common taxon near Karasabai. White-bellied Piculet ◊ Picumnus s. spilogaster Very common on the coastal plain and at New Amsterdam. ARROWHEAD PICULET ◊ Picumnus minutissimus (SE) only. Seen near Paramaribo and at Peperpot. See notes. White-barred Piculet Picumnus cirratus We saw this species near Dadanawa. Yellow-tufted Woodpecker Melanerpes cruentatus Common. These birds are without a yellow tuft. Also (SE). Spot-breasted Woodpecker Colaptes punctigula (H) Along the Ireng river. Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus Seen Wichabai. BLOOD-COLOURED WOODPECKER ◊ Veniliornis sanguineus Seen at the Arbary road site. Golden-collared Woodpecker Veniliornis cassini Seen at Atta on several occasions. Often hard to see. Also (SE). Yellow-throated Woodpecker Piculus flavigula (H) Heard Iwokrama lodge. Seen (SE). Golden-green Woodpecker Piculus chrysochloros Seen (SE) only. Golden-olive Woodpecker Colaptes rubiginosus (H/SE). Waved Woodpecker ◊ Celeus undatus Not uncommon. Also (H/SE). Chestnut Woodpecker Celeus elegans A superb pair at Karasabai. Cream-colored Woodpecker Celeus flavus A few pairs noted. Ringed Woodpecker Celeus torquatus Yes, several seen. Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus Very common. Also (SE). Red-necked Woodpecker Campephilus rubricollis Commonly recorded. Also (SE). Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos Yes. Also (H/SE). Black Caracara Daptrius ater Common this year at Iwokrama. Red-throated Caracara Ibycter americanus Several groups noted. Also (SE). Northern Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway Common in the southern savannas. Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima Noted throughout. Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinans Seen Wichabai. Also (H/SE). Barred Forest Falcon Micrastur ruficollis (H/SE). Lined Forest Falcon ◊ Micrastur gilvicollis Seen (SE) only. Collared Forest Falcon Micrastur semitorquatus Seen briefly at Karanambu. Also (H/SE). American Kestrel Falco sparverius A savana bird. Aplomado Falcon Falco femoralis Another savanna bird. We saw a good number. Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis Seen at several locations. LILAC-TAILED PARROTLET ◊ Touit battavicus Several seen (SE). Golden-winged Parakeet Brotogeris chrysoptera Common at rainforest sites. Also (SE). Caica Parrot Pyrilia caica Several groups flying fast through the forest. Also (SE). Dusky Parrot Pionus fuscus A few noted. Also (SE). Blue-headed Parrot Pionus menstruus Quite common. Also (SE). Festive Amazon ◊ Amazona festiva bodini A few pairs noted in the botanical gardens. BLUE-CHEEKED AMAZON ◊ Amazona dufresniana Several pairs seen very well near Atta. Yellow-crowned Amazon Amazona ochrocephala Commonly seen. Southern Mealy Amazon Amazona farinose Only seen at Atta and Iwokrama. (H/SE). Orange-winged Amazon Amazona amazonica Commonly seen in drier areas. Also (SE). Green-rumped Parrotlet Forpus passerinus Seen at several sites in the south. Black-headed Parrot Pionites melanocephalus A few in the south. Also (H/SE). Red-fan Parrot Deroptyus accipitrinus Only seen at Iwokrama. One escape in the botanical gardens. Also (SE). Painted Parakeet Pyrrhura picta Small flocks noted. Also (SE). Brown-throated Parakeet Eupsittula pertinax Very common in the south and around Georgetown. Also (SE). SUN PARAKEET ◊ Aratinga solstitialis Up to 31 seen around Karasabai. Red-bellied Macaw Orthopsittaca manilatus A common Macaw seen throughout. Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna Up to 27 seen near Iwokrama along the river. Scarlet Macaw Ara macao Fairly common.


Red-and-green Macaw Ara chloropterus The most numerous of the larger Macaws. Red-shouldered Macaw Diopsittaca nobilis Seen on the coast and in the south. Also (SE). Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus Seen at Wichabai and Manari. Rufous-tailed Foliage-gleaner Anabacerthia rufocauda (SE) only. Olive-backed Foliage-gleaner Automolus infuscatus (SE) only. HOARY-THROATED SPINETAIL ◊ Synallaxis kollari Three seen along Ireng river. McConnell’s Spinetail Synallaxis macconnelli obscurior (SE) only. A disjunct population. Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomeus A very numerous species. Plain-crowned Spinetail Synallaxis g. gujanensis (L/SE), regionally endemic taxon, likely a distinct species. Pale-breasted Spinetail Synallaix albescens Seen near Karanambu. Wedge-billed Woodcreeper Glyphorynchus spirurus Seen at many sites. Amazonian Barred Woodcreeper Dendrocolaptes certhia Seen at Iwokrama. Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus The common woodcreeper outside humid areas. Striped Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus obsoletus Seen at Karanambu, where common. Chestnut-rumped Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus pardalotus Not uncommon. Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus A few noted throughout. Streak-headed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes souleyetii Seen along the Ireng river. Fasciated Antshrike Cymbilaimus lineatus (H) Heard at Iwokrama. Also (H/SE). Black-throated Antshrike Frederikena viridis (H/SE). A tricky species at this time of year. Black-crested Antshrike Sakesphorus canadensis The common open country Antshrike. Also (SE) but not Canada. BAND-TAILED ANTSHRIKE ◊ Thamnophilus melanothorax Key target species seen (SE). Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus A pair seen near Hope beach. Mouse-colored Antshrike Thamnophilus murinus (H) Many heard. Also (H/SE). Northern Slaty Antshrike Thamnophilus punctatus A common species at Karanambu. Amazonian Antshrike Thamnophilus amazonicus Seen Woowetta to Turtle Mountain. Also (SE). Dusky-throated Antshrike Thamnomanes ardesiacus A flock leader. Also (SE). Cinereous Antshrike Thamnomanes caesius The other flock leader. Also (SE). Brown-bellied Antwren ◊ Epinecrophylla gutturalis One of the led. Also (SE). Black-throated Antbird Myrmophylax atrothorax (H/SE). Rufous-bellied Antwren ◊ Isleria guttata Forest floor Antwren. Also (H/SE). Pygmy Antwren Myrmotherula brachyura A canopy Antwren. Also (SE). Guianan Streaked Antwren Myrmetherula surinamensis Recorded (SE). White-flanked Antwren Myrmotherula axillaris An understory Antwren. Long-winged Antwren Myrmotherula l. longipennis Another understory Antwren. A vocally distinct taxon. Spot-tailed Antwren Herpsilochmus sticturus Canopy wanderer. Todd's Antwren ◊ Herpsilochmus stictocephalus A close cousin to the above species. Also (SE). Rufous-winged Antwren Herpsilochmus rufimarginatus Seen at one site in the south. Southern White-fringed Antwren Formicivora grisea The common dry country Antwren. Also (SE). Grey Antbird Cercomacra cinerascens (H) We did not look for this one. It called everywhere. Also (H/SE). Blackish Antbird Cercomacra nigrescens nigrescens (L/SE). An endemic taxon, likely a distinct species. Dusky Antbird Cercomacra tyrannina Common at Karanambu. Also (H/SE). Black-headed Antbird Percnostola r. rufifrons (SE) only. Guianan nominate likely a distinct species White-browed Antbird Myrmoborus leucophrys Seen at Karanambu. Also (H/SE). Common Scale-backed Antbird Willisornis poecilinotis Recorded (SE). Guianan Warbling Antbird Hypocnemis cantator Seen at Atta. Also (SE). Black-chinned Antbird Hypocnemoides melanopogon Seen at Karanambu. Silvered Antbird Sclateria naevia (H) Heard along the Arbary road. Also (H/SE). White-bellied Antbird Myrmeciza longipes We made an effort with this one at Karanambu. Ferruginous-backed Antbird ◊ Myrmeciza ferruginea (H) Heard only. Also (H/SE). A bad time of year for Antbirds. Spot-backed Antbird Hylophylax naevius (H/SE). Rufous-throated Antbird ◊ Gymnopithys rufigula One at Iwokrama. Rufous-capped Antthrush Formicarius colma (H/SE). Black-faced Antthrush Formicarius analis (H/SE). Spotted Antpitta ◊ Hylopezus macularius We got this quite quickly.


Thrush-like Antpitta Myrmothera campanisona dissors (H). Also (H/SE). We did not look. Wing-barred Piprites Piprites chloris (H) Heard only at Turtle mountain. Also (H/SE). Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet Tyrannulus elatus Yes, of course. Also (H/SE). Forest Elaenia Myiopagis gaimardii Ditto. Also (H/SE). Yellow-crowned Eleania Myiopagis flavivertex (L/SE) Seen at Peperpot, near Paramaribo

Yellow-bellied Elaenia Elaenia flavogaster We saw this species most days in open areas. Lesser Elaenia Elaenia chiriquensis A few noted. Rufous-crowned Elaenia ◊ Elaenia ruficeps At the Mori scrub. Also (SE). White-lored Tyrannulet Ornithion inerme (H) Many heard. Southern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum Yes. Mouse-colored Tyrannulet Phaeomyias murina A few. BEARDED TACHURI ◊ Polystictus pectoralis Seen at three sites!! Must be the country to see this species. CRESTED DORADITO ◊ Pseudocolopteryx sclateri Several seen near Karanambu lodge. Excellent. Guianan Tyrannulet Zimmerius acer A common species. Also (H/SE). Ochre-bellied Flycatcher Mionectes oleagineus Noted at Woowetta. Sepia-capped Flycatcher Leptopogon amaurocephalus Recorded (SE). Northern Scrub Flycatcher Sublegatus arenarum A few noted. Pale-tipped Inezia Inezia caudata Commonly noted. PELZELN’S TODY TYRANT ◊ Hemirticcus inornatus A surprise find and write in. Recently discovered in Guyana. Short-tailed Pygmy-Tyrant Myiornis ecaudatus (H/SE). Helmeted Pygmy Tyrant Lophotriccus galeatus Yes, after some work. Also (H/SE). Double-banded Pygmy Tyrant Lophotriccus vitiosus guianensis Only recorded (SE). Likely a distinct species. Pale-eyed Pygmy Tyrant Atalotriccus pilaris At Karanambu. Slaty-headed Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus Sylvia After a bit of work we saw a nice pair, so to speak. Spotted Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum maculatum Common in Georgetown. Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum Yes. Rufous-tailed Flatbill Ramphotrigon ruficauda Seen at Atta. Local guide had no idea what it was. Yellow-olive Flatbill Tolmomyias sulphurescens (H) Recorded n the south

Zimmer's Flatbill Tolmomyias assimilis (H) We only heard this one. Grey-crowned Flatbill Tolmomyias poliocephalus (H) Another necking breaking canopy species we did not look for. Ochre-lored Flatbill Tolmomyias flaviventris Common. Also (SE). WHITE-THROATED PEWEE ◊ Contopus albogularis A key target species seen Brownsberg plateau (SE). White-crested Spadebill Platyrinchus platyrhynchos (L) Seen at Woowetta. Whiskered Myiobius Myiobius barbatus Seen in mixed flocks at Woowetta. Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus obscurus Good numbers. Pied Water Tyrant Fluvicola pica A common species. White-headed Marsh Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala We did a few of these. Also (SE). Long-tailed Tyrant Colonia colonia (SE) only. Piratic Flycatcher Legatus leucophaius (L) Early on in the tour, while looking at Finsch’s Euphonia. Also (SE). Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis The common flycatcher. Social Flycatcher Myiozetes similis (L/SE) Seen at Peperpot in Suriname (SE). Dusky-chested Flycatcher Myiozetetes luteiventris (SE) only. Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus Also common. Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor lictor Seen at many sites. Yellow-throated Flycatcher Conopias parvus Seen at Atta. Also (SE). Streaked Flycatcher Myiodynastes maculatus A few. Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua We saw them wherever we went. Sulphury Flycatcher Tyrannopsis sulphurea A pair at a fruiting tree. White-throated Kingbird Tyrannus albigularis Rather more numerous this year. Grey Kingbird Tyrannus dominicanus A few found in Georgetown. Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus Abundant. Also (SE). Fork-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus savanna A common species at this time. Greyish Mourner Rhytipterna simplex (H) Heard at Karanambu. Short-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus ferox (H) Heard while watyching Cotingas. No takers, unsurprisingly.


Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer (H/SE). Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus Tyrannulus The dry country Myiarchus. Todd’s Sirystes Sirystes s. albocinereus (SE) only. Now largely accepted as a full species. Bright-rumped Attila Attila spadiceus (H) Heard at several locations. Also (H/SE). Cinnamon Attila Attila cinnamomeus A superb individual called in at Karanambu. Common (SE).

THE COTINGA LIST.

Guianan Cock-of-the-rock ◊ Rupicola rupicola Several males and females at Woowetta. GUIANAN RED COTINGA ◊ Phoenicircus carnifex A least one superb male at Woowetta. Great views. Purple-breasted Cotinga ◊ Cotinga cotinga Several MALES at a fruiting tree. Not always seen. Superb! Spangled Cotinga Cotinga cayana Several seen at Atta. Also (SE). Screaming Piha Lipaugus vociferans Common. Pompadour Cotinga ◊ Xipholena punicea Several. Superb males and females at many locations. Also (SE). Purple-throated Fruitcrow Querula purpurata Commonly seen and heard. Also (SE). Bare-necked Fruitcrow Gymnoderus foetidus A single female noted at Karanambu. A write-in. CRIMSON FRUITCROW ◊ Haematoderus militaris Seen twice at Atta. Great views of this key target Capuchinbird ◊ Perissocephalus tricolor Several seen at the Karanambu lek. An amazing experience.

Tiny Tyrant-Manakin Tyranneutes virescens Heard at many locations. One seen Karanambu. Also (H/SE). Saffron-crested Tyrant Manakin ◊ Neopelma chrysocephalum Recorded (SE). Blue-backed Manakin Chiroxiphia pareola Seen at Karanambu. White-throated Manakin ◊ Corpipo gutturalis Seen (SE). Black Manakin ◊ Xenopipo atronitens Common at the Mori Scrub. Heard (SE) White-fronted Manakin ◊ Lepidothrix serena Seen (SE). White-bearded Manakin Manacus manacus (H/SE). Crimson-hooded Manakin ◊ Pipra aureola Recorded (SE). Several at Peperpot. White-crowned Manakin Pseudopipra pipra Seen at the Mori scrub. Golden-headed Manakin Ceratopipra erythrocephala Yes, everywhere. Seen (SE). Sharpbill Oxyrunchus cristatus (H) Recorded Brownsberg. (H/SE) Whiskered Myiobius Myiobius barbatus Seen in a several mixed flocks at Woowetta. Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher Terenotriccus erythrurus (H/SE). Black-tailed Tityra Tityra cayana A few seen. (H/SE) Guianan Schiffornis Schiffornis olivacea A single bird tracked down at the Mori Scrub. (H/SE). Cinereous Mourner Laniocerca hypopyrra A couple seen. Cinereous Becard Pachyramphus cinnamomeus Seen Georgetown Botanical gardens. (H/SE). White-winged Becard Pachyramphus polychopterus (H/SE). Black-capped Becard Pachyramphus marginatus Recorded (SE). GLOSSY-BACKED BECARD ◊ Pachyramphus surinamus One recorded Suriname by some of the group (SE) White-naped Xenopsaris ◊ Xenopsaris albinucha At its usual spot. I don’t understand why it is only at this site. Pink-throated Becard Pachyrapmphus minor Seen. Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis Several. Slaty-capped Shrike-vireo Vireolaniuis leucotis (H/SE). Chivi Vireo Vireo chivi Common in drier woodlands. Lemon-chested Greenlet Hylophilus thoracicus A few seen. Also, (SE). Ashy-headed Greenlet Hylophilus pectoralis Yes, seen around Georgetown. Also, (H/SE). Buff-cheeked Greenlet Hylophilus muscicapinus Common. Also, (H/SE). Cayenne Jay ◊ Cyanocorax cayanus A few noted, many heard not seen. White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer Several seen. Also, (H/SE). Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea Abundant. Also, (H/SE). Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera Common at Karanambu. Black-collared Swallow ◊ Atticora melanoleuca Common on the Essequibo river. White-banded Swallow Atticora fasciata (H/SE). Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis A few seen. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica A common winter visitor.


Sand Martin Riparia riparia (NL) (SE) only. Black-capped Donacobius** Donacobius atricapilla (L/SE) Heard Paramaribo

Bicolored Wren Campylorhynchus griseus griseus Seen in the south. A distinctive sub-species in the region. Coraya Wren Pheugopedius Coraya (SE). Buff-breasted Wren Cantorchilus leucotis Common in the south. Also, (H/SE). House Wren Troglodytes aedon Seen throughout. White-breasted Wood-Wren Henicorhina leucosticte (H/SE). Musician Wren Cyphorinus arada arada (SE). Guianan taxa likely a full species Trilling (Long-billed) Gnatwren Ramphocaenus melanurus Several heard and seen at Woowetta. Also, (H/SE). Collared Gnatwren Microbates collaris torquatus (SE) One to watch carefully. Tropical Gnatcatcher Polioptila plumbea Common in the south. Also, (SE). Tropical Mockingbird Mimus gilvus A very common species. White-necked Thrush Turdus albicollis Only recorded (SE). Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas The common thrush. Also, (SE). Spectacled Thrush (Bare-eyed T) Turdus nudigenis (H) Heard only at numerous sites. Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens A small number in the open savannas. RED SISKIN ◊ Spinus cucullatus 17 or 18 birds. A superb experience. ‘Was that the red bird’? I believe it was. Finsch's Euphonia ◊ Euphonia finschi A common species in the south. Violaceous Euphonia Euphonia violacea The common Euphonia around Georgetown. Golden-sided Euphonia ◊ Euphonia cayennensis A superb male seen on our travel day to Georgetown. (H/SE). American Yellow Warbler (W) Setophaga aestival A few found. Northern Waterthrush Parkesia novaboracensis Two at hope beach. In the mangroves where they winter. Masked Yellowthroat Geothlypis aequinoctialis Seen at Karanambu. A tick for some! Flavescent Warbler Myiothlypis flaveola Found at several sites. Rose-breasted Chat Granatellus pelzellni A superb male seen at Atta. A target species of sorts, I suppose. Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna Common on the savannas. (H/SE). Red-breasted Blackbird Sturnella militaris A common icterid. Green Oropendola Psarocolius viridis Seen at Woowetta and elsewhere. (H/SE). Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela Fairly widespread although not so common. Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous Common in Iwokrama. (H/SE). Yellow Oriole Icterus nigrogularis Common. Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus Evidently increasing in the south. Epaulet Oriole (Moriche O) Icterus [cayanensis] chrysocephalus Seen at Iwokrama. (H/SE). Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus Common. Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis Very common. Carib Grackle Quiscalus lugubris Seen in Georgetown area. Grassland Sparrow Ammodramus humeralis Abundant. (H/SE). Red-capped Cardinal Paroaria gularis Seen at Karanambu. Black-faced Tanager Schistoclamys melanopis (SE) only. Red-billed Pied Tanager Lamprospiza melanoleuca (SE) only. A good country in which to see this species. Flame-crested Tanager Tachyphonus cristatus A couple noted. Fulvous-crested Tanager Tachyphonus surinamus A couple noted. Also, (SE). White-lined Tanager Tachyphonus rufus Noted, near Linden. Also, (SE). Red-shouldered Tanager Tachyphonus phoenicius (SE) only. Fulvous Shrike-Tanager Lanio fulvus (SE) only. Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo Yes, as always. Also, (SE). Blue-grey Tanager Thraupis episcopus Yes. Also, (SE). Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum Yes. Also, (SE). BLUE-BACKED TANAGER Cyanicterus cyanicterus A big target for this tour. A distinct monotypic genus. Turquoise Tanager Tangara Mexicana Several in the Botanical gardens. Also, (SE) but not Mexico. Paradise Tanager Tangara chiensis Not recorded from Chile, but always good to see in the humid tropics. Spotted Tanager Tangara punctate A couple at Atta. Rare here. Bay-headed Tanager Tangara gyrola Seen at Atta. Also, (SE). Burnished-buff Tanager Tangara cayana Yes.


Black-faced Dacnis Dacnis lineata A couple seen at Atta. Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana A small number recorded. Also, (SE). Purple Honeycreeper Cyanerpes caeruleus A few noted. Also, (SE). Red-legged Honeycreeper Cyanerpes cyaneus Not uncommon. Also, (SE). Green Honeycreeper Chlorophanes spiza Several noted. Also, (SE). Yellow-backed Tanager Hemithraupis flavicollis A few at Atta. Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum (L) A couple noted. Bicolored Conebill Conirostrum bicolor Seen in mangrove at Hope beach. Also, (SE). Grassland Yellow Finch Sicalis luteola Common at Karanambu. Wedge-tailed Grass Finch Emberizoides herbicola Recorded in the grasslands. Slate-coloured Grosbeak Saltator grossus (SE) only. Buff-throated Saltator Saltator maximus (SE) only. Greyish Saltator Saltator caerulescens Yes. Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina Common. Plumbeous Seedeater Sporophila plumbea A common species in the south. Wing-barred Seedeater Sporophila americana A number seen around Georgetown. Also, (SE). Yellow-bellied Seedeater Sporophila nigricollis Common at Iwokrama. Very unusual.

Ruddy-breasted Seedeater Sporophila minuta Common in the savannas. Chestnut-bellied Seedeater Sporophila castaneiventris A common species at Iwokrama. Chestnut-bellied Seed Finch Oryzoborus angolensis One Ireng gallery woodlands. Now rare. A popular cage bird. Pectoral Sparrow Arremon taciturnus (SE) only. Yellow-green Grosbeak Caryothraustes canadensis A common species at Iwokrama only. (H/SE). RED-AND-BLACK-GROSBEAK ◊ Periporphyrus erythromelas Males and females seen at Atta. Also, (H/SE). Rothschild's (Blue-black) Grosbeak Cyanocompsa rothschildii (H) Heard only at Iwokrama. Also, (H/SE). Bananaquit Coreba flaveola Seen Guyana. Also, (SE). We also had a very good trip for mammals. The sightings of Giant Anteater were good. Primates were very quiet and unobtrusive. This may have had something to do with the fact that the resident Harpy Eagles were feeding hungry sub-adult young. A couple of us were lucky enough to see a Jaguar along the highway. The bat situation is a tough one. There are a lot of bat species in Guyana and little information as to their identity. MAMMALS

Giant Anteater Myrmecophaga tridactyla A single animal seen at Karasabai, rather briefly Guianan Brown Capuchin Cebus apella At least heard, at a couple of locations. Common Squirrel Monkey Saimiri sciureus Seen at Karanambu. Guianana Red Howler Monkey Alouatta seniculus A huge row we had to put up with every day. Also (SE) Guiana Spider Monkey Ateles paniscus We saw a few at Karanambu and Atta. Also (SE) Golden-faced Saki (White-faced S) Pithecia Pithecia Seen (SE) Golden-handed Tamarin Saguinas midas A small troop near Wichabai was unexpected. Also (SE) Red-rumped Agouti Dasyprocta leporine Seen at many locations. JAGUAR Panthera onca A single very large male seen from the lead vehicle en route to Iwokrama. Crab-eating Fox Cerdocyon thous One seen on the savannas. Tayra* Eira Barbara Seen (SE) Giant River Otter Pteronura brasiliensis Six Wichabai, up to 20 at Karanambu!!! Proboscis (Long-nosed) Bat Rhynchonycteris naso Seen along the rivers at Karanambu. Lesser Bulldog Bat Noctilio albiventris Common at Karanambu. (There were many other unidentified bat species seen during the tour)

REPTILES

Fer de Lance Bothrops asper A medium-sized individual crossing the road sparked momentary interest/worry. White Caiman Caiman crocodilus A large number seen at Karanambu. Black Caiman Caiman niger A few at Karanambu and a huge adult at Iwokrama. Black-spotted skink Mabuya nigropunctata Not uncommon on the forest floor at Atta.

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