Growing Houseplants

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1 GROWING HOUSEPLANTS (DVLO\DQG6XFFHVVIXOO\ By Kent Killen Copyright 2000

Transcript of Growing Houseplants

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GROWING HOUSEPLANTS(DVLO\�DQG�6XFFHVVIXOO\

By

Kent Killen

Copyright 2000

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This book is copyrighted by Kenton G. Killen. NoCopying, duplicating, electronic storage andretrievable or any other system yet to be invented isallowed without express written permission fromKenton G. Killen or whomever the copyright mayhereinafter be assigned. Copyright date 2000.

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Dedicated To:

My two children Tina and Gene

Dale and Loriann who made me “Family”

The Jacksons for all those wonderful holiday meals

Ray and Regina who were friendswhen I really needed friends

Dr. Toth who kept me well enough to write.

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GROWING HOUSE PLANTSEasily & Successfully

byKENT KILLEN

PREFACE

Did you ever walk into a room orsomeone’s house and get the feeling that it wasbare? Did a room ever feel impersonal or deadlike a cheap motel room?

It may have felt that way because therewere no living plants in the room. Nothing makesa home feel more “lived in” than a beautiful, wellmaintained plant. It can be a plant with beautifulflowers or a lush foliage plant. Either says, “Hey,I live hear and I enjoy life!”

Although the homes and apartments oftoday are sealed and barricaded more than theancient caveman”s dwelling, some plants may begrown in almost any living environment. Anotherproblem that many of you will need to overcomeis lack of time and space to grow the plants. Thetime and space constraints can be solved byselecting plants which will fit into your schedule.

The main requirements to succeeding ingrowing attractive plants are variety, water,temperature, soil, air, and pest control.

Here is to your success!!!

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VARIETIES

Before you rush down to the store and buy manybeautiful plants which will surely die, study therequirements for growing in this book and thenconsult the table in back to select plants whichwill fit your lifestyle. If you are subject to be senton assignment for a week at a time, do not pick aplant that needs watering each day.

To make the choice easier, and to see which willbe most likely to grow, the most common plantswill be divided into seven groups.

Flowering plantsAnnual flowering plantsHardy flowering plantsBulb plantsFoliage upright plantsFoliage vining plantsSucculents and Cacti

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LIGHT

Before we get to the different types of the plants,we will cover the growing requirements. We arestarting with light because that is usually thebiggest problem in modern houses andapartments.

All true plants require light in order to live andgrow. Most plants need to be protected fromdirect sunlight. If they grow outdoors, why do weneed to protect them? Light coming through glasscan act as if it is coming through a magnifyingglass and burn the plant. Other plants normallygrow in the shade.

Houseplants have been bred to require less light.This does not mean “No Light”. Generally, plantswill manufacture food and grow better if morelight is available. However, we face anothercontradiction. “Shady plants” can be retarded intheir growth if given too much light.

Normally, flowering plants need more light.Geraniums, Begonias, Cyclamens, andChrysanthemums do best with more light such asa south window which gets more hours of sun. (Inthe future, I shall type “Mums”. That is too manyletters.) Plants grown for foliage will usually dobetter with less light. Palms, ferns, vines, etc.should not be placed in direct sunlight. Naturecan break these rules. I have wild fern growing in

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the full sun all the day. It is growing wild. I wouldnever try to grow this as a house plant and put itin a bright window.

West windows should be avoided unless youhave some type blocking curtain or shade. Lookout the window at 3:00 in the afternoon. You willsee how strong the sun could be on fragile plants,even flowering ones.

Except for certain foliage plants, North windowsdo not have enough light for growing.

Just from checking the available windows, youcan see where you are starting to limit the plantsthat can be grown successfully. You need to dothis check with each of the requirements.

For an additional investment, you can purchaselights that will make it possible to grow lush plantssuch as African Violets. These lights make itfeasible to grow plants in a windowlessbasement. I have seen plants grown with lightsonly and then win awards at shows.

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FREE FREEThere is a catch

There are several catches

Download ALL of the booksGet at least five friends to download all

of the booksCome back often

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Do not just let them sit in the computer

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Use the books and tipsWhen you get value, send a donation.

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Spend it on the person in the mirror.Make that person smile.

Add happiness to the world.Never send more than twenty bucks to any

“charity”

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ORIf you have a Positive Mental Attitude book, or how-to craftbook, send that. I can read those on the days I can not get

out of bed.

Don’t send religious stuff.

One of these days I will find a cheap, used laptop and havemoney at the same time. Then I will be able to use it on the

bad days.Send to “[email protected]” by Paypal

Type it in, the link usually does not work.

Scroll on down for the rest of the book

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MOISTUREMost plants need a moist atmosphere to attain healthydevelopment. This presents a problem in most dwellings,as the heating and cooling is designed to create a dryatmosphere. Humans need a dry atmosphere to preventmildew and other fungus. A good compromise for mostplants is to spray the leaves once a day. DO NOT SprayAfrican Violets or any fuzzy leafed plants.

You can have zone humidity by using a plastic oraluminum tray and filling with coarse pebbles to a depthof about two inches. Place the pots on top of this gravel.Any over watering will be caught by the tray andevaporate upward to the plants. If the plants are potted ina real clay pot (not the fake look-alikes) it will absorbsome moisture from the rocks and pass it through to thesoil.

As you read the following, keep in mind that overwatering will rot roots:

An ample supply of water should be furnished the plant atthe roots. Plants growing in the dry conditions of thehome lose water through the leaves. They lose morewater than the ones growing outdoors because of the lowhumidity. This must be replaced by the roots. The waterin the soil serves two functions. The first is to supply waterto the plant tissues. The second is to dissolve thenutrients from the soil so that the plant may take them intothe root system and use them.

Lack of water causes the plant to wilt. The internal waterpressure is what holds the new growth upright. Afterwilting, the plant begins to starve from lack of food.

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Too much water will cause the plant to suffocate. Theplant must have oxygen to the roots. When a plant iscontinually over watered, the oxygen is driven from thesoil and no air cavities are left to hold any oxygen. Theoxygen contained in the water will be used up quickly.Decay of the roots and the death of the plant will follow.

The ideal condition for the majority of plants is the soilcondition shortly after watering. The excess water hasdrained away and pulled air into the soil as it drained. Thesoil will be damp and have plenty of oxygen. If that is thecase, why not water twice a day? Hydroponics culturedoes just that. However in soil culture, over watering andlack of oxygen will result as the soil will hold more andmore of the water.

There is no one rule for watering plants. Water a plantwhen it needs it. Water well and let it dry before wateringagain seems to work most of the time, but not all.Frequent small waterings do not seem to work as well.More contradictions: Plants in small containers usuallyneed watering more often. Flowers in clay pots will needwatering more than flowers in plastic pots. The clay allowsmoisture to evaporate while plastic does not. More plantsdie from over watering when grown in plastic pots. Thoseplants in boxes will not need to be watered as often. Thesize of the plant in relation to the container will alsodetermine how quickly the plant runs out of water. All ofthis brings us back to “Water when they need it.”

MORE WATERING ‘RULES’

Note the texture of the plant stems and leaves. Theharder the foliage, the less water needed. I killed a nicerubber plant from over watering. I watered it each time I

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watered some other plants. This does not work. Plantslike African Violets must be watered more often, as theyhave softer leaves.

Slower growing plants need less water than fast growingplants. Plants such as the hydrangeas need the extrawater in order to grow rapidly. Slower growing plants suchas primroses, will need less water. They can be damagedby over watering.

Leaf area is another factor in water usage. A broad, softleafed plant will use more water.

The native habitat of the plant is another indicator ofwater needed. The desert area plants, such as the cactiand succulents require less water. This is especially trueduring winter.

The humidity of the room will have a large effect on thefrequency of watering. The lower the humidity, the fasterthe plant will dry out.

In the resting stage, plants need very little moisture. Thisis true of the palms and other tropical plants which growvery slowly during their winter resting stage. Plants withbroad, leathery leaves need a moist atmosphere, butmust have a well drained soil. Ferns require lots of water,they are mostly water, but must have a well drained soil.Some plants will thrive under too much water - if they getoxygen in the water. The elephant ear and umbrella plantare two that fit this description.

When the top of the soil is dry, water thoroughly. Waterenough that the water goes through the soil and flows outthe drainage holes in the bottom. The extra water will wet

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the soil and dry out the trapped air which has beendepleted of oxygen. The weight of the water acts as asuction and brings fresh air into the soil around roots ofthe plants.

The shortcut of setting plants in water and letting thewater be drawn to the surface through the pot is notadvised.

Automatic watering pots are available at the plant stores.They are not as good as the ‘soak and dry’ method formost plants. They work quite well for starting seeds andfor plants such as African violets. They also work betterthan forgetting the plant and letting it die. They consist ofa wick which hangs in a container of water. Make sure thewick is of glass or some of the plastic wicks. Cotton willrot. The wick draws the water from the container into thesoil.

Foliage plants have a tendency to grow too rapidly if giventhe optimum amount of water. To avoid this, keep the soiljust wet enough for health leaves that are not wilted. Inmany cases, this means watering only once a week.

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TEMPERATURE

Most foliage plants grow well in the home as thetemperature is about the same as that preferred in thenatural setting. Tropical flowering plants also do well inwarm rooms. This may be the reason that African Violetsare so popular. Since temperatures in the home are at 70degrees or above, many of the cool plants do not do well.Plants such as hydrangeas, cinerarias, cyclamens, andprimroses will not do well. They prefer temperatures of65-70 in the day and 55-60 at night. During the winter,you can make the plants last longer by moving them to acooler room at night. The flowers on most plants will lastlonger if you place them in a cooler location at night.

On cold nights, do not leave plants near windows.. If youmust do so, put a curtain or layers of paper between theplants and the window. Heat will radiate from the leavesto the cold glass. African Violets are very sensitive to thiseffect.

Plants will not do well if you place them near radiators,heaters or hot air vents. The extra heat causes drying ofthe leaves.

Fumes from coal burning or manufactured gas will injureplants. Fumes from natural gas does not harm mostplants.

SOIL

If everything else is ideal and the soil is poor, plants willnot grow. If the ph is close to what a plant needs, theplants can adapt to many different soils. The soils mustcontain the raw materials and water for the plants to

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manufacture the food they need. They field ofhydroponics does not use soil at all. The food is suppliedwith the water.

For house plants, a good mixture is one-half garden loam,one-fourth sharp sand, and one fourth peat. The loamcontains some humus and clay. The sand is to providedrainage and keep the soil from packing or caking andcracking. Peat supplies some food value and waterholding. The easiest way to get good soil is to go to areputable garden center. Buy soil that is labeled sterile(most will be).

Add one-half teaspoon of a complete plant food to a sixinch pot when potting a plant. A complete plant food isone which contains the three main growing elements.They are nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium in a 1:1:1ratio. Many companies add trace elements. One vitamintablet to a gallon of water will supply all the traceelements needed.

Every brand of plant food will say they are the best.Forget brands and purchase by the total units of fertilizer.If the bag says 10:10:10 and cost $1.20, this is .40 perunit. Divide total units (30) into price (1.20). Buy the plantfood with the lowest unit cost. To paraphrase:phosphorous is phosphorous is phosphorous.

If you buy plants from a reputable dealer, the soil mixturethey are in will supply food for awhile. When it is depleted,buy plant food and apply according to directions. Neverapply fertilizer to a dry plant. Always make sure the soilis moist before feeding.

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POTTING

Potting will be needed for one of three reasons.Potting newly rooted cuttings or seedlings.Potting plants brought in from outdoors. This canget to be a big operation in the fall.Transferring plants from one pot to another. This isdone if you are doing root divisions or if you haveplants that are ‘root bound’.

When potting seedlings, rooted cuttings, or slips (such asyams), use a rich soil to which fertilizer has not beenadded. Strong fertilizer will injure the fresh, tender roots.This is what a grower means when he says the fertilizer‘burned’ the roots.

Start with a two and one-half inch pot. Prepare the pot byplacing a broken pot over the bottom hole. Place this withthe curved side up to form a dome. This is for drainage.I can never find a broken pot when I need it. I use coarsestone. I put the larger pieces (preferably broken) stackedaround and over the hole. Make sure one does not sealthe hole. Then I use smaller pieces to make a smoothlayer. Broken clay bricks work well also. Place a little sandover this. Then place a layer of the potting soil. Put theseedling in the center and gently put soil around the plantand the roots. Fill to within one-half inch of the top. Firmgently. Soak completely. Add soil if needed. Place in ashady spot until the roots become established. Thisusually takes one week. Then give them sunlight. Mist theleaves the first few days.

Put plants gathered from the garden in a pot largeenough for the root ball and soil lifted with the plant. Therest is the same as for seedlings.

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When repotting from one to another, it is commonpractice to go one size larger. If you go too much larger,the plant will not do as well. Over potting usually results inleaf yellowing and the plants do not develop. This isbecause the pot holds too much water that is not used bythe plant. The excess water drives out the air.

Let the plant dry out some. Placethe hand over the soil with the mainstem of the plant between the indexa n d middle finger. I am right-handed so I use the left hand. Youdo what is comfortable. Turn the potupside- down and use the otherhand as a guide. Tap the pot sharplyo n a bench or fence post. Thep l a n t should slide out into thehand holding the plant.

Re-pot when the plant becomes ‘root bound’. When theroots are coming out the drain hole or when they are anentwined mass after taking out of the pot, they are ‘rootbound’.

Prepare the pot as described earlier. If you have some,put crushed charcoal in the bottom. This keeps the soil‘sweet’. Break off the top edge to round the dirt ball.Scrape off the very top layer of dirt on the old plant.Gently immerse the root ball in water for about a minute.This will make sure that the roots are truly wet whentransplanted. Finish re-potting as described for seedlings.

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Glazed or painted clay pots, ceramic pots or plastic potsare attractive, but special care must be given whenwatering. Since there is almost no evaporation, thedrainage must be excellent. Stir the soil surface for betteraeration.

Old pots should be soaked in a bleach water to kill fungusand other plant diseases. Rinse thoroughly before using.Treat like a painted pot as older pots lose their porosity.

Metal containers are pretty, but never pot directly in ametal container. If you must have a plant in that beautifulbrass container from Aunt Mildred (The one with all themoney and no heirs), pot the plant in a clay pot. Insert theclay pot in the brass container. Support the pot from thebottom with two or three inches of charcoal. Be verycareful when watering.

DOUBLE POTTING - Plants in a clay pot are put into alarger water tight container. The clay pot is supported bytwo inches of peat moss and surrounded by a layer ofpeat moss. Water is applied only to the peat moss. If thepeat moss is kept wet but not soaked, the clay pot andthe soil there-in will absorb the water from the peat moss.This idea is the forerunner of the wick system mentionedearlier.

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PRUNING AND PINCHING

When a plant, or even one branch of a plant, starts tobecome long and spindly, the cure is pruning or pinchingback. To many people. ‘Pruning’ means cutting a woodyoutdoor plant with knives, shears, etc. while ‘pinchingback’ refers to pinching off new growth with the fingers.The result is the same. The reason for either is to havea bushy, stocky, healthy plant. When transplanting plantsin the fall, it is a good idea to cut back the top growth to afew joints from the bottom.

If a plant does not get enough light, it tells you bybecoming spindly and growing toward the light it isgetting. Plants such as this need to be pinched back. Ifpractical, change the lighting conditions.

Most vines will benefit from ‘pinching back’ when young.This will result in more growth from the base and healthierplants. Grape ivy, Pothos, wandering jew and others willmake better plants if kept trimmed.

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SUMMER CARE

Many gardeners put the house plants back into thegarden during the summer. They will get added strengthif this is done.

Since outdoor gardening is not the subject of this book,we will not cover this issue. Just remember that the sungets hotter as summer progresses and plant put in sunlitwindows can be severely damaged. You may want tomove them or shade them.

PROPAGATIONPlants may be propagated by seeds, leaf cuttings, stemcuttings(slips), root divisions, portions of leaves, eyes(potatoes), air layering, and runners.

Seed planting is the method for the majority of plantsgrown. This is not always true of house plants. The seedsshould not be too old. Light is usually detrimental togermination. One Christmas, a five year old wasexplaining this. She had seen a TV program. She hadmemorized all of the program. I wish more kids watchedthis kid of program and less of the other kinds. The seedshould be planted to the depth called for on the seedpackage. If no package is handy, try twice the thicknessof the seed. Very fine seed such as begonia orcockscomb should not be covered. Water them in with afine spray. The soil should be damp - not wet.

The best results I had was using the thin, disposable,‘rose boxes’ from a florist supply. One hundred was veryinexpensive at the time. After the seeds were planted andwatered, the box was closed and the moisture wastrapped in. I did not need to water again. The trays were

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covered with black garbage bags to block light. By liftingthe bags, I could easily see the progress of the seeds. Itworked great. I used industrial mixing sand with a smallamount of fertilizer in the water. When they sprouted, theplastic box became a miniature greenhouse.

After sowing, mist the soil with a fine spray. If you can notget the rose boxes, cover with glass, plastic or evenpaper. You want to keep the moisture on the seeds andavoid watering again. Remove the covering after theseeds sprout.

Most instructions say to transplant to other soil as soon asthe first two true leaves appear. I prefer to wait until fouror six appear. With the plastic box method, this workswell. When you do transplant, space one to two inchesapart. Use a soil with 60% sand and 40% potting soil. Youwill need to move them again and a heavier soil willdamage the roots. You will have very good results if youuse a plastic knife from a fast food place to lift the plants.Simply insert the knife under the small plant and lift. Placein new soil and gently slide off the knife by using a secondknife. Pull the new soil around the plant and mist until verymoist. Place in a shady place for about three days. Afterthey grow several more leaves, transplant into individualpots.

This section would not be complete if I did not mentionJiffy Pots. This is a neat commercial product which isgreat for a few seeds. The Jiffy Pot Number Seven comes25 to the pack. Decide how many seeds you are planting.Figure about three to the pot. They may not all sprout.Soak the number of pots you will need. They expandforever. They form a cavity in the top. Put seeds in cavitywith some sand (some people use soil). Place the pots in

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a plastic or aluminum tray. I use styrofoam plates or thestyro trays in which food is sold. Keep pots damp byputting water in tray - not on pots. After the seeds sprout,wait until roots come through the Jiffy Pot. Transplant.

CUTTINGSIn colonial times, a visit among neighbors often meant agift of a begonia or patience plant cutting. They had theirtea and the recipient would lovingly tend the stem or leafuntil it flowered. Stem cuttings are usually rooted in sharpand that is kept moist. Many will root and becomecomplete plants if inserted in a container of water.Geraniums, wax begonias, coleus, ivy and yams (sweetpotatoes) are a few of the plants that will. A great projectfor school children is the sweet potato. Buy a small yamat the store. Put the pointed end down in a narrowcontainer. Fille with water until only about three-fourths ofthe yam is not covered. Set in a warm, well shaded place.It will sprout in about a week. The plants grow rapidly.When they are about nine inches long they are what wecalled ‘slips’. If you continue watering, the vines can reachover six foot long. This is covered again in this book witha picture.

Removing the yam and cutting into it to removes eachplant will yield plants that will grow in soil

An aside here - George Washington Carver isremembered for the many uses he discovered for thepeanut. Not many people realize that he also found over260 uses for the yam. He was a very smart man.

STEM CUTTINGS: Many plants from begonia to Azaleawill root and grow from stem cuttings. Begonias and softerplants will root if you simply cut the end of a stem and

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place the cut in in wet sand. Keep out of direct sunlight.Wait about a week and check to see if roots have formed.Gently tug on the plant. If it resist, roots have formed.Wait another week and transplant. If it pulls out, stick itback in the soil and wait until the roots do form.

Sections of plants such as dumbcane, ti, and dracaenawill root if laid in damp sand. Cut sections several incheslong. Make sure the have bumps or undeveloped leafbuds. Cover about 90% of the stem with damp sand. Newplants and roots will form in several weeks. Each newplant can be severed from the stem and plantedseparately.

Plants such as Azalea work best if a fork is cut. Leave afew leaves on the smaller limb. Dip the fresh cut bottomend in a rooting medium. The fork is then placed inpotting soil mixed with sand. Put deep enough so that thejoint of the two limbs is covered. Keep the medium dampuntil new leaves appear.

LEAF CUTTINGS - African Violets can be rooted from theleaves. Each leaf must have at least one-half inch of leafstem attached. Insert the leaf stem in damp sand. Rootswill form in about four weeks. Small plantlets will start toform at the base of the leaf. This sometimes takes as longas two months. Cut each new plant from the ‘starting leaf’and plant separately.

Another method is to cover a glass filled with water withplastic wrap or wax paper. Hold the wrap or paper on witha rubber band. Punch a hole for each leaf. Insert the leafstem through the hole into the water. Keep in bright light.After the roots and plantlets form, plant and cut off the‘starter leaf’.

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Try Snake-plant. Lay out a large leaf. Cut at two inchintervals. Mark the former top end of each piece. Insertthe bottom end in damp sand. Each piece will form a newplant.

A rex Begonia leaf will root if placed flat on damp sandand soil mixture. Use 60% sand 40% potting soil. Havethe sand damp and keep out of direct sun. Use hairpinsover some small veins to hold it down. Make a few cuts atthe main vein. This is where it will root and new plantsform.

Each leaf rosette of echeveria will root if twisted from themain stem and placed in the rooting medium.

The ice plant propagates very easily. Simply trim off theexcess and chop into very small pieces. Scatter over thesoil and cover with more soil. Keep damp and each piecewill root.

In order to avoid watering often, cover the rooting mediumwith a plastic cover or use plastic trays and covers or pickup an old aquarium at a garage sale. Cover the aquariumwith a piece of window glass. Dampen soil. Do not soak.

RUNNERS- Flame violet, spider plant, strawberry geranium andothers put out runners. Small plantlets form at the tip ofthese runners. These are easy to root. Pin them to thesoil until they develop roots. Cut the runner and pot thenew plant.

ROOT DIVISIONS - This applies to plants that are usuallycalled “bulb” plants.

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TRUE BULBS - A true bulb is like a daffodil or onion. Ithas a short underground stem surrounded by fleshyleaves. This is the bulb. The fleshy leaves store the foodand protect the unseen plant.

BULBLETS - These are sometimes called offshoots. Theyare formed by the lateral bud on the basal plate. Formedfrom true bulbs only.

BULBILS - These are small bulbs produced in axils ofleaves (like lilies), flower clusters or on stems.

CORMS AND CORMELS - Plants such as the Gladiolusare planted with corms and form new corms and manycormels at root level. These cormels should be gatheredin the fall. Place in refrigerator for at least 30 days beforereplanting. It will usually be two years before they willbloom.

RHIZOMES - These are creeping underground stems asin the Iris and Calla. Because of food storage, they aresometimes very thick. Foliage leaves and the flowerstalks arise from buds on the top side. Roots projectbelow. Cut sections so that each section has a growthbud. Pot for a new plant.

TUBEROUS RHIZOME - This is a slender undergroundstem. It is basically a rhizome that is thickened at the endinto a tuber like section for storing food. The termrootstock is often used for a tuberous rhizome. Cut thesame as for rhizome for propagating.

TUBER - The short enlarged stem is for food storage. Itmay be flattened (tuberous begonia), rounded (potato) orirregular (ranunculus). Tubers do not creep like a

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rhizome. Tubers have growth buds called eyes. Divideinto sections having at least one “eye”. Let pieces dry untila ‘scab’ forms then pot.

TUBEROUS ROOTS - Yams are an example. These arereal roots (not stems) with thickened food storagestructures. They have no growth buds in the ‘tuber’.Growth buds are at one end as part of the old stem base.Can be divided as long as each piece has a growth bud.Other examples are Dahlias and the Gloriosa Lily.

AIR LAYERING - This is a great way to multiply woodyplants. Cut a downward slice through the bark and intothe stem. Hold the cut open with a toothpick. Wrap withwell dampened sphagnum moss. Wrap with a clearplastic. Tie the plastic tightly above and below the moss.When healthy roots have protruded through the moss, cutoff stem below the moss. Remove plastic and most of themoss. Replant.

PESTS“Damping-off” fungus attacks seedlings, but if proper careis taken, it will not be a problem in the home. The biggestfactor is to have sterilized starting medium. Next - Do notover water.

Due to the dry conditions in the average house, stem rotand leaf spots do not secure a foothold. Should any of theforegoing be a problem, talk to your local plant supplier.He will have the very latest fungicide to cure the problem.

Insects cause more trouble with house plants. Insects fallinto chewing and sucking insects.

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CHEWING INSECTS bite out parts of plants. When thisoccurs, sprays or dusts are available to easily eradicatethem.

SUCKING INSECTS are a large and varied group. Youhave aphids, mites, red spiders, white fly, mealy bugs andscales as a sample. No one treatment will control all ofthem. Malathion will control most of them. See the localnursery and ask if something better is available andhopefully it is also environmentally friendly.

The aphid is a small green or brown insect. Poweredtobacco dust is sometimes used for control. Whateveryou use, it must get on the aphid. Several application willne necessary.

Mite damage causes the curling of leaves and curling ofbuds.

Red Spider feed on the underside of leaves. Thisproduces a speckled appearance on the leaves. Bothinsects will eventually kill the plant. Whatever spray youbuy, verify that it is safe for the home. One pest control‘expert’ in this area sprayed cotton poison in a children’snursery. The children are still being monitored and thebuilding was ordered torn down.

WHITE FLY is a serious pest. It flies on approach so it isdifficult to spray. It attacks many plants but especiallysalvia, cineraria. Ageratum, fuchsia, and somegeraniums.

MEALY BUGS are soft, slow moving insects. They arefound on ferns, crotons, coleus and many other plants.The bugs cluster around the joints of stems and leaves.

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They have fuzzy covered bodies and most sprays do notwork. They can be removed with a soft paint brush dippedin a nicotine solution. Your nursery may have some newsprays.

SCALE insects look like very small brown spots. Theyattack fern, palms and crotons. Do not confuse SCALEwith the brown spore cases on ferns. You can try scrapingthem off. Then go buy the best spray available.

EARTHWORMS will not be a problem if you use sterilesoil from the start. Their burrowing creates air pocketswhich dry the roots. Kill them, root lice and maggots withChlordane dust.

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FLOWERING PLANTSBegonias are attractive plants. Some have beautifulfoliage and almost no flowers. Others have beauty inboth. Peat or humus soil seems to work best. Thetemperature can be cool with no direct sunlight requiredfor most varieties. The heavier foliage varieties do betterwith reduced light.

The normal propagation method is by stem or leafcuttings. Wax Begonias use seed. Few insects ordiseases bother these hardy plants.

AFRICAN VIOLET is a native of tropical Africa. It thrivesbest at a temperature of 65 to 70 degrees. About thesame as most American homes. It requires little light soit does well in most apartments. If not over watered, it willbloom for a long time.

Proper watering is the key to success. The original homefor the plants was under giant trees in a tropical damparea. Keep this in mind. Keep the soil moist - not soaked.Do not wet the leaves. Cool water will spot the leaves.Never wet the crown.

Direct sunlight will injure the plant. An East or Northwindow is best. West and South windows may be usedwith proper shading.

Skip the saucer watering system. Skip glazed pots unlessyou are very careful not to over water. With AfricanViolets, it is how much water as well as how you waterthat makes the difference.

A good soil is mandatory for success. A good mixture isequal parts of organic matter (peat or leaf mold) and soil.

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Add sand if the soil has much clay. Two parts sand toeight parts clay soil. Mix one teaspoon of a 10-10-10fertilizer to one-half gallon of potting mix. Do not repot amature plant more than once a year.

African Violets propagate by leaf cuttings. See the sectionon cuttings. TIP: Large leaves with long stems can beused more than once to start plants. When the first plantstake hold, cut the stem and start again.

Some problems:

Flower buds forming, but flowers dropping off - Probablycarbon monoxide from a faulty heater or stove. Check -especially if anyone has had headaches.

Plant leaves wilting and dying - due to over watering.

White cottony masses on the leaves - Mealy buginfestation. Remove with alcohol on a cotton swab or asmall, soft brush.

Leaves small and curled, flowers absent or distorted. -Mite infestation. These things are almost microscopic.See a different nursery for a possible cure. I do not knowof any. Do not purchase plants from that dealer again.

Leaf stems too long. It may be the variety. Probably theplant does not get enough light.

Failure to flower:

Plants not getting enough light.Too many leaves in center of plant. Remove a few.

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Over watering - This is usually the trouble. Theseplants are finicky about water.Temperature too high, above 75 or too low, below60.

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FLOWERING PLANTSAMARYLLIS is a bulbous plant. It is very easy to grow.Start bulbs in Spring. The flowers will appear first. Afterthe flowers have died, set the plants outside if possible. Ifit is possible to put the pots into the ground, leave themthere until December. If the foliage is cut too soon, theplant may not store enough food to make flowers thefollowing year.

POCKETBOOK FLOWER - A very pretty flower, but it ismuch too much trouble for easy success. Skip the difficultones, if you wish to have fun with the plants.

CALLA LILY (Zantedeschia) - After flowering, starting insummer, with hold all water. Let the bulbs dry completely.Start into growth in the Fall.

CINERARIA - is a house plant favorite, but a pain. Theplants need much light, but will wilt under direct sunlight.The soil must remain moist but not wet. Rooms must becool, below 60, for proper flowering. Skip this one.

CHRYSANTHEMUM - There are many nice varieties. Thevery large blossomed plants with longer stems are valuedfor All Saints Day. I worked at a wholesale florist that soldover 180,000 blooms on All Saints Day. This plant can bemade to bloom at any time by controlling the amount oflight it gets. Some varieties may be grown outdoors asperennials in milder climates.

CYCLAMEN - Let the nurseries grow this one. If you wantit for a house plant, buy it. It requires a cold room. Itneeds 50 at night and 60-65 in the day. This kind of airconditioning in the summer will cost a fortune. The foliagewill yellow and the flowers will be very small if the

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temperature is too high. Most insects like the plant. Toomuch trouble.

FUCHSIA is an old favorite but does not workeverywhere. It requires a cool (65) room, full sunshineand moderate water. A winter resting period benefits theplant. Let the soil dry gradually. Place the plant in a cooldark room, shed or basement for two or three months.Repot and restart growth. Multiply by cuttings.

GERANIUM is a favorite plant. It requires a sunnylocation. Without the light, it will flower very little andbecome spindly. Start cuttings in early spring. Growoutdoors, in the garden, or a well lighted window. Repotin a small pot in the fall. This restricts root action andproduces stocky plants with many flowers.

GERANIUMS need regular applications of plant food.They need plenty of water, but do not keep the soil soggy.Leaf spots will develop if the soil stays too wet. This isusually not a problem in the dry atmosphere of the home.Insects will attack the plant, but this is not a seriousproblem.

HYDRANGEA - Buy it. Enjoy it. When the flowers quit,give it to a gardener. It is very pretty and if you give it lotsof air, light and moisture it will grow for a good while. Inorder to carry the plant over to another year, they musthave at least 30 days below 60 degrees and six to eightweeks of dark storage without leaves. Don’t grow it. Buyit.

KALANCHOE (Tom Thumb) is a succulent. It grows wellin the home. It is a compact plant with a profusion of

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orange-red flowers. It will thrive in a warm, dryatmosphere. Normal blooming time is January.

POINSETTIA is a native of Hawaii. The bright red is notthe flower. It is a bract that will turn red when the light isrestricted. It grows as a shrub in its’ native habitat. Buy itand enjoy it at Christmas. It is very difficult to grow in thehome because of the sensitivity to light. I have grown itoutdoors, but the bracts failed to turn red. It is best to buy,enjoy and discard.

UPRIGHT FOLIAGE PLANTS

BOSTON FERN is a very popular house plant. Manyvarieties are available. Ferns need a normally warmroom. They prefer the same temperature as humans(about 65-70). Grow in the right size pot and avoid overwatering. Keep them from direct sunlight and do not placenear heaters or hot air vents. Follow those hints and theyare easy to grow.

Feed regularly with a good plant food and repot once ayear. When you repot, use a soil with about half leaf moldor peat. Propagate by potting of the runners. Scaleinsects will attack ferns. Trim off and destroy the olderfronds. These are the ones which will have the mostinsects such as scale and mealy bugs. Washing withtobacco tea and sop will control the pest. Check with anursery center to see if new, safe sprays are available.

TABLE FERNS such as Aspidium, Hollyfern, Pteris andothers make good house plants. Do not try growing inbrass, plastic, painted or glazed pots. Grow in real claypots only. Over watering and insufficient light are the twobiggest problems.

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COLEUS is a nice house plant that is not as demandingas some. It does well in full sunlight or some shade. Itneeds a warm moist atmosphere. Watch for mealy bugsand fungus. Keep the plant pinched back to producebushiness. New plants are produced by cuttings, so usethe material you pinch from the plant.

DRACAENA is similar to Pandanus in appearance andrequirements. They can be reproduced by sections of themain stem.

PANDANUS is a very hardy house plant. Watch for overwatering (especially during winter).The sword-like greenor variegated foliage makes it attractive for a point ofinterest. Avoid pots that are too large. This leads to overwatering. Offsets which form at the base may be removedand repotted for new plants.

PALMS - There are a myriad number of palms. The kindsfor house plants are few. Kentia and Date are the twobest for homes. Both are easily cared for. Do not put indirect sunlight or over pot. Repot no more than once ayear. Every two years is a better time frame. Warm moistatmosphere is preferred by both kinds. Feed with acommercial plant food every four weeks. Watch for scale.

RUBBER PLANT - This plant will do well under a widerange of growing conditions. Do not over water. Itcan withstand warmer temperatures, but prefersabout 70 degrees. It should have a slightly humidatmosphere but can grow under very dry conditions.The plant does better when partly root bound. Do nottransplant too often. It is propagated by cuttings or airlayering. The usual pest are scale and mealy bugs.These can be eradicated by washing with a tobacco-

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soap solution. If the leaves start turning yellow, youhave over watered.

SANSEVIERIA (Snake Plant) is an easy plant togrow. It is almost care-free. The leathery leaves stopmost insect attacks. It requires low light and verymoderate water. The plants are easily propagated byleaf cutting or suckers which may be potted (SeePropagation Section).

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FOLIAGE PLANTS - VINES

YAMS - MY FAVORITE - I do notknow of anything easier to grow.Get a yam (sweet potato) and putthe pointed in down in a narrowcontainer of water. Keep at roomtemperature and it will sproutvines. Move to an area of normallight. It will tolerate low light, butthe vines will not be as bushy.

Note the mass of roots in the photo. After the vinesare about three feet, add a few drops of dilute plantfood to the water once a week. After the vines areone foot long, let the water level drop until some rootsare out of water before replenishing water. The watercontainer may be placed inside a more decorativecontainer. It should last about a year.

ENGLISH IVY does well in the home. This is thereason it is popular. It requires moderate light andwater. The plant is capable of extremely rapid growthunder ideal conditions. Scale and aphids are the maininsect problem. The variegated varieties are not asadaptable.

GERMAN IVY (Senecio) is favored for its’ pale greenfoliage. It does well in low light, cool area andmoderate water. It is not as tough as English Ivy butproduces a more luxuriant growth.

GRAPE IVY (Cissus Rhombifolia) - Grape Ivy growsupright until long enough to start trailing. The newgrowth is light green in contrast to the dark green ofthe older stems and vines. To have a bushy plant,

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pinch back often. It requires moderate light andmoisture. Mealy bugs are the main insect problem.They are easily killed. It propagates from cuttings orslips.

POTHOS AUREUS (Devils Ivy) and its varieties arefavorites for the home. When used in smallcontainers, they provide just the right green touch toa room. These plants thrive in the normal heat of ahome and are long lasting. Grow in a light soil. Theydo best in a shaded part of a room. The heart-shapedphilodendron, Cordatum, is popular for the samereasons.

Large leafed philodendrons are used in large rooms,usually running up a sphagnum moss pole. Haveproper drainage and do not over water.

WANDERING JEW (the purple varieties) is one Ireally like. They will grow anywhere. I have hadluxurious beds of one variety that took the full brunt ofthe afternoon sun. Others, I have grown in very poorlight in hanging baskets. I like it as it tolerates myforgetting to water it. Propagation is by rooting ofstems in moist soil or water. It will even grow in water.

CACTI AND SUCCULENTSThis subject deserves a book by itself. There is aquote in one of the out of print books that says,”allcacti are succulents, but succulents are not all cacti.”I am sure this is a very old saying. Succulents are“juicy” plants having very fleshy stems or leaves.These are used for storing water which enables the

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plant to withstand long, hot, and dry periods. Normallysucculents grown in the home will need more waterthan cacti. Let the soil become dry before wateringagain. A well drained, porous soil is a must.

Cacti are more dry and thorny with spikes or hairs.From the Giant Saguaro which weighs tons and maybe 50 feet high to the Button Cactus that is so smallit is very hard to find, there are thousands of cacti.Some are narcotic. Some have ferocious spines andothers are leathery. Some have beautiful flowerswhile others rarely bloom.

Years ago, in the forties, an old mountain manshowed my mother how to make jelly out of cactusflowers. He made booze.

Succulents are great for the home planting. Sometypes are found in every state except northern NewEngland. Grow a small dish of Aloe if you grow noneother. This is still the very best thing for a burn. Thejuice from a fresh crushed leaf will stop a burn fromblistering. Every kitchen should have one plant in thewindow. Agave (Century Plant), Aloe, Crassula,Echeveria, Euphorbia, Kalanchoe, and Sedum arethe more common succulents.

There are so many easy to grow cacti, I shall not listthe best ones. Go to a good nursery and pick out oneyou like. Almost all cacti will grow well in a porous,sandy soil. Water sparingly.

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BULB AND BULB-LIKE PLANTSBulbs, Bulblets, Corms, Rhizomes and Tubers

Growing bulbous plants in the home is very easy ifyou start with good bulbs, and sterile soil. and followthe recommendations for the one chosen. The bulbsand tubers are clean and pleasant to handle. Afterpotting, the containers may be stored out of sight untilthe bulbs have produced roots. You may want to waituntil the flower stalk is growing. After flowering, theymay be removed and fresh bulbs brought in. If youselect with care, you can have flowering plantsthroughout the year.

Some bulbs can be grown permanently in containers.They will flower year after year with little care. Anoccasional repotting or adding fresh soil to the top isall that is needed. This group is represented byachimenes, amaryllis, agapanthus, caladium, calla,some cannas, clivia, crinum, and haemanthus.

Crocus, daffodils, Dutch Iris, freesias, hyacinths,scillas, and tulips are usually grown for one seasonand then discarded or transferred to the garden. (Ifyou discard, please do so properly. Louisiana spendsa fortune each year to keep waterways clear. Thesewaterways are choked by water hyacinths and otherplants that were thrown out.

Soil, bulb fiber, vermiculite, pebbles and water orplain water are the growing mediums for bulbs.Hyacinths and the sweet potato - a tuber are twoexamples of growing in plain water.

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PEBBLES AND WATER SYSTEM - Cut clear plastictubing or soda straw if no tubing is available to thedepth of the dish. Tape to the side. This will be part ofyour water gauge. Break up charcoal into smallpieces and cover the bottom of a container to aboutone inch. Put washed, small, smooth stones over thisfor a depth of another two inches. Crushed granitecan cut the bulbs. Place the bulbs on these stones.Finish filling the container with small stones.

Pour water until it isone-eight inch abovethe base of the bulb.Here is where youuse the gauge. Ifusing a soda straw,You will need tocarefully insert a wire

or broom straw into the soda straw and remove it tosee the depth of the water. If you use a larger plastictube, you can cut and mark a strip of styrofoam. Aswater is poured, it will float. Quit pouring when themark appears.

Paper White Narcissus and Chinese Sacred Lillyboth grow well with this system.

BULB FIBER OR VERMICULITE - Bulb fiber is acommercial product containing charcoal, coarse,fibrous peat moss and crushed shell. Before using,soak thoroughly. Squeeze ou the excess water. Fillthe bowl within one inch of top. Press down, but donot compact or the bulb roots will not be able to pushthrough. Form a depression and place bulbs so thatthey support each other. Do the same for vermiculite.

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Roman hyacinths and early trumpet daffodils aregood bulbs for these mediums.

GROWING IN WATER - Yams have already beencovered. Treat other tubers like yams the same.Hyacinths are sometimes grown in special forcingglasses. I think it is more trouble than it is worth. Youcan place the hyacinth bulbs on a layer of coarsegravel. Put water until it touches the base of bulb.

Put container in a cool dark place and check thewater level often. Rooting may take as long as 10weeks. Usually the bulbs will root in six weeks. Whena mass of roots have formed and the tips are pushingupward, place in a cool, lighted room.

Do not place them in direct sunlight as the hot suncan burn the exposed roots. Keep the water leveleven with the base of the bulb.

GROWING IN SOIL - Most container bulbs are grownin a soil mixture of loam, sand, and organic matter(peat, leaf mold, or bark) in equal mixtures. This givesthe loose mixture that bulbs need.

Use clean pots. Older, uncleaned pots may harborfungus, parasites and bacteria. Boil the clay pots orsoak in bleach water overnight and rinse. Do not re-use older plastic pots. Set up the drainage withbroken pots or broken charcoal as describe earlier forother plants.

Place bulbs so that they are almost touching. Put tipsof larger bulbs even with the top of the soil. (Or wherethe soil will be.) Plant the smaller bulbs slightly below

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the surface. You will probably notice that other bookssay plant to a depth of three times the diameter of thebulb. This is correct for garden planting. We aretalking about container planting. Leave about an inchbelow the rim of the container for watering. Soakthoroughly and place in a dark cool place to wait forrooting.

After about eight weeks, start lifting the pots and lookfor root growth through the drain hole. The top growthmay be showing as a white or pale yellow from lack oflight. Remove those that are rooted to a well lit room.The shoots will soon turn green. Keep the plantsevenly moist during the blooming and growing period.Do not place in sunlight until the plants have adjustedto the room light.

Try some of the miniature varieties of bulbs. You willlike them. If you find a miniature gladiola that is adeep rich purple, please send me a bulb. I had manyof them. When I moved, I forgot to dig them up andthe new owner hired someone to mow. They keptthem mowed down until they died.

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THIRTEEN RULES

1. To be successful, pick a plant that iseasy to grow, that fits the atmospherein your home and that fits your life-style.

2. Let soil dry, then water thoroughly.

3. Use a good potting soil of the mixspecified for the particular plant.

4. Use containers with drains or be very,very careful not to over water.

5. Use charcoal for plants grown in waterto keep water clear. It is a good soilconditioner also.

6. Fertilize sparing -Too much is harmful.

7. Humidify most plants. Dry air is usuallyharmful.

8. Shade plants as needed. Most will nottolerate full sun.

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9. At the first sign of disease, insects,scale, etc. see your garden center forthe correct insecticide.

10. When using insecticide, Followdirections EXACTLY.

11. For bushy plants, trim or pinch back.

12. Do not use a pot that is too large.

13. Deal with a good garden center. ornursery. Find one with knowledgeableemployees who sells quality plants. Qualityis less expensive in the long run.

If small children will be around, check for plantdanger. Some are poisonous and some (like DumbCane) contain Calcium Oxalate crystals that canharm the mouth. In rare instances death hasresulted.

Look at the following table. It should help you decidewhich plant you wish to grow. It will give the wateringand lighting requirements for many of the plants.

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AfricanMarigold

Orange orYellowFlowers

Frequent Sun

African Violet Purple, Blue,White, Pink

Frequent Shade

Ageratum Blue fl. Frequent Sun

Air Pine White fl. Infrequent Partial Shade

Aloe (Aloeaborescens)

Green Seldom Sun

Aloe Noblis Green Seldom Sun (orshade)

AluminumPlant

Silvermarked

often shade

Amaryllis Many colorsfl.

Often sun

AmoenaDiffenbachia

Green, whitebands

Often Partial shade

Aphelandra Yellow fl. Often partial shade

Aralia Green often shade

Artillery Plant Green often partial shade

Aspidium Green seldom partial shade

Auritum Green often shade

Azalea (acidsoil)

Many color fl. often sun

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Baby Tears Green seldom shade

Begonia many often sun to partialshade

Betel Nut Palm Green often shade

Birds NestFern

Green often shade

Birds NestSansevieria

Greenw/bands

seldom shade

BlushingPhilodendron

ReddishGreen

often shade

Boston Fern Green often shade

Boxwood(Buxussempervirens)

Green orVariegated

often sun

Boxwood White fl. often partial shade

Browalia Blue fl. often sun

Cacti Flowers varyand plantsvary

seldom sun

Caladium Variegated often partial shade

Calla Lilly White,Yellow fl.

often sun

Camellia Many color fl. often sun

Canna Many color fl. often sun

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Carnation Many color fl. often sun

Cast Iron Plant Green orVariegated

seldom shade

Century Plant Chartreuse seldom sun

Cheese CakePlant

Green often shade

ChineseEvergreen

Green often shade

ChristmasCactus

Pink or Redfl.

often sun

Chrysanthemum

Yellow,White,Orange, Redfl.

often sun

Cigar Plant Orange fl. often sun

Cineraria Many Colorfl.

often sun

Climbing Fig Green often sun

Coleus Many Colors often sun

Crocus White,Yellow, Bluefl.

often sun

Croton Variegated often (exceptwinter)

sun

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Crown ofThorns

Pink fl. seldom sun

Cupid’s Bower Blue, Pink,White fl.

often shade

Cyclamen Pink, Red,White fl.

often sun

Daffodil Yellow fl. often sun

Date Palm Green seldom partial shade

Devil’s Ivy Green andYellow

often shade

Devil’s Tongue Red fl. often partial shade

Dish Fern Green seldom shade

Dracaena Red, Green often shade

Dubia Green often shade

Dumb Cane Green andWhite

often shade

Easter Lilly White often sun

English Ivy Green often tolerates mostconditions

Exacum Blue fl. often sun

Ferns See variety

Fiddle Leaf Green often shade

Flame Violet Scarlet fl. often partial shade

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FloweringMaple

Orange fl. often sun

FloweringShamrock

Pink, yellow,white f.

often sun

FrenchMarigold

Orange,Yellow fl.

often sun

Fuchsia Purple, red fl. often sun

Gardenia White fl. often sun

Geranium Pink, Red,White fl.

often sun

Geranium Ivy Green often shade

German Ivy Green often indifferent

Glacier Ivy Green, White often shade

Gloxinia Purple, Red,White fl.

often shade

Goldband Lilly White,Yellow fl.

often sun

Gold Dust Ivy Yellow,Green

often shade

Gold StripeSansevieria

Green withWhite edge

seldom partial shade

GrapeHyacinth

Blue fl. often sun

Grape Ivy Green often partial shade

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GreenPeperomia

Green often shade

Hahn’s Devil’sTongue

Green andWhite

often shade

Hastatum Green often shade

HedgehogAloe

Green seldom sun

Heliotrope Purple fl. often sun

Henry’s Lilly Yellow fl. often sun

Hens andChickens

Green Seldom sun

Holly Fern Green often shade

Hyacinth White, Blue,Pink fl.

often sun

Hydrangea Blue, White,Pink fl.

often sun

Jade Plant Green seldom sun

JapaneseLaurel

Green seldom sun

Japanese Lilly Pink, White,fl.

often sun

JerusalemCherry

Red Berry often sun

Joshua Tree Green seldom sun

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Kafir Lilly Orange-redfl.

often sun

Tom Thumb Red fl. often sun

Kentia Palm Green often exceptwinter

shade

Lace Fern Green often shade

Lantana Orange fl. often sun

Madonna Lilly White fl. often sun

Maple LeafPlant

Green often partial shade

Marble Queen White, Green often shade

MarthaWashingtonGeranium

Pink, White,Red

often sun

MassangeDracaena

Green andWhite

often shade

Miniature TreePalm

Green often shade

Monkey PuzzleTree

Reddish-Green

often partial shade

Nephthytis Green often shade

Norfolk IslandPine

Green often partial shade

Panduriforme Green often shade

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Periwinkle Pink andWhite fl.

often sun

Petunia Many colorsof fl.

often sun

Philodendron Green often shade

PiggybackPlant

Green often sun

Pigmy Date Green often partial shade

Pin Oak Ivy Green often shade

PocketbookPlant

Yellow, Red,Pink fl.

often sun

Podocarpus Green often shade

Poinsettia Red, White,Pink fl.(bracts)

often sun

Poor Man’sOrchid

Many Colorfl.

often Partial shade

Prayer PlantMarantabicolor

Yellow andWhite fl.

seldom shade

Prayer Plant(marantaleuconeura)

Green andBrown

seldom shade

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Primrose(primulamalacoides)

Pink andWhite fl.

often sun

Primrose,Hardy (primulapolyantha)

many color fl. often sun

Rat TailCrassula

Green seldom sun

Red or VelvetPhilodendron

Red often shade

Red RubberPlant

Red, Green often(carefully)

shade

Regal Lilly White fl. often sun

Rex Begonia Variegated,bright

often shade

Ripple Ivy Green often shade

Rose Many colorsfl.

often (needsmuch waterand poroussoil

sun

Rubber Plant Green when neededlittle in winter

shade

St. Bernard’sLilly

White fl. often partial shade

Sander’sDracaena

Green andWhite stripe

often shade

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Scheffiera Green often shade

Screwpine(Pandanusveitchi)

Green andWhite

often exceptwinter

shade

Self BranchingIvy (HederaHahnii)

Green often shade

Selloum Green often shade

Shrimp Plant Pink fl. often sun

Small LeafEuonymus

Green often shade

Snake Plant GreenSpeckledWhite

seldom partial shade

Snapdragon Many colorsfl.

often sun

Spear Flower Green often partial shade

Spindle Tree Green andWhite

often sun

Split Leaf Green often shade

SpottedEvergreen

White andGreen

often shade

Spotted LeafDracaena

Green withYellow Spots

seldom shade

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StrawberryGeraniums

Green andWhite fl.

often partial shade

Succulents-See individualkind

Tailflower Red, White,Pink fl.

often partial shade

Ti Plant Green, Red often partial shade

Tiger Aloe variegated seldom sun

Tiger Lilly Orange fl. often sun

TrailingSelaginella

Green seldom partial shade

Tri Leaf Green often shade

Tri LeafWonder

Green, white often partial shade

TuberousBegonia

Brilliant fl.,Many colors

often partial shade

Tulips Many color fl. often sun

Umbrella Plant(Cyperus)

Green when needed sun

VariegatedEvergreen

Light Greenstreaks

often shade

Variegated Ivy Green andWhite

often shade

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VariegatedNephthytis

Green andWhite

often shade

VariegatedPeperomia

Green andWhite

often shade

VariegatedPhilodendron

Green andYellow

often shade

VariegatedRubber Plant

Green andWhite

when needed(less inwinter)

shade

Verbena Many colorsfl.

often sun

Vinca Vine Green andWhite

often sun

WanderingJew

Green andRed, onevarietyPurple

often shade todirect sun

Wart Plant Variegated seldom sun

WatermelonBegonia

Green andWhite

often shade

Wax Plant White fl. seldom partial shade

Wax Begonia White, Pink,Red fl.

often sun

Wendlandi Green often shade

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White LeafFittonia

Green, Whiteveins

seldom shade

Xembi Green often shade

Zinnia Many Colorfl.

often sun