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Great American Roads

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Nuzzle up with a llama. Celebrate Appalachian heritage through a variety of historic museums. Romp and play in one of our award-winning parks. Tour a hand-blown glass factory. Hang onto your hat at a 26-acre amusement park. Catch a show at our outdoor amphitheater or indoor concert venues. Take a jog or bike ride on our pedestrian trail system. No matter your interests, Huntington has something for every family – laid back or active. Stop by the Visitors Center to pick up your free visitor’s guide!

210 Eleventh Street Huntington, WV 304.525.7333 www.wvvisit.org

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Welcome to the 2013 edition ofGreat American Roads cover-age in Byways magazine.

Each year Byways travels some of themost historic roads in North America.They all have some form of official des-ignation and have been recognized for

their role in our nation’s history. Some are designatedofficial Scenic Byways, others are All American Roads.All have something in common: some of the most spec-tacular scenery you will find on any road in NorthAmerica.

We begin the journey on the West Coaston Oregon’s Columbia River Highway.This road has been lauded for its spectac-ular waterfalls and magnificent overlooksof the Columbia River Gorge. It has beencalled “the King of Roads.”

In California, we take a coastal cruisefrom San Francisco to Malibu on the leg-endary Pacific Coast Highway. Officiallydesignated Highway 1, the highway takesa twisting journey along the coastline tosome of the most famous places you canvisit: Monterey Bay and the HearstCastle, the cliffs of Big Sur, coastal com-munities like Carmel-by-the-Sea andSanta Barbara, the American Riviera withits Mediterranean architecture and lavishgardens. There are roller coasters inSanta Cruz, wine country, redwoods,Cannery Row, Pebble Beach, Malibu andthe Hollywood Bowl, just to name a few.It truly is an epic journey.

Also in California, we travel California190, the Scenic Byways to Death Valley.The road is the gateway to over 3.3 million acres ofexpansive vistas, rare desert wildlife and the opportunityto experience the lowest point below sea level and thehottest place in North America.

Next, we tour Colorado’s Golden Belt HistoricHighway, leading to North America’s greatest goldcamp, three world-class fossil sites and numerous his-toric sites. In fact, the mines in the Cripple Creek MiningDistrict produced more gold that the Alaska andCalifornia gold rushes combined!

In Bartlesville, Oklahoma, we learn about the Phillipsbrothers, and their impact on American highway travel.Frank and L.E. Phillips founded the Phillips Petroleum

Company in 1917. In 1927 the company’s gasoline wasbeing tested on U.S. Highway 66, when the test carachieved the incredible speed of 66 miles per hour. Itwas then Phillips decided to name their fuel, Phillips 66.

In Minnesota, the North Shore Scenic Drive fromDuluth to the Canadian border, follows along the shoreof Lake Superior. The shore is characterized by rockycliffs, rolling hills and ridges, scenic rivers and waterfallsas they flow to Lake Superior.

In New York, we experience the state’s Lakes to LocksPassage, an All-American road located midway betweenManhattan and Montreal. The road unifies the intercon-nected waterway of the upper Hudson River, Champlain

Canal, Lake George andLake Champlain. Thiswaterway is the core ofNorth America’s first “super-highway” between upstateNew York and the Canadianprovince of Quebec.

Finally, we visit Virginia’sColonial Parkway. It onlytakes about an hour to drivethis famous road, but in thattime you’ll discover a part ofAmerica’s history that istaught in every classroom inthe United States. TheColonial Parkway begins inJamestown, where theVirginia colony was begun in1607 on the shore of theJames River. The mid-pointis Williamsburg, where ittunnels under the historicdistrict of Colonial

Williamsburg. The eastern part of the parkway isYorktown, where General Cornwallis surrendered toGeorge Washington in 1781, ending the AmericanRevolution. Not bad for an hour’s drive!

What’s Happening features Louisville’s unique MegaCavern, and its new Mega Quest rope thrills in this mon-strous underground cavern.

In Colorado Springs, a new webcam brings breathtak-ing views and landmarks right to your computer, iPad orsmartphone.

We hope you enjoy this issue of Byways.

PREVIEWBy Steve Kirchner, Editor & Publisher

The Rose Garden is part of LeifErikson Park, on Minnesota’s

North Shore Drive.

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FeaturesGreat American Roads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Oregon’s Columbia River Highway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10An Epic Coastal Cruise: San Francisco to Malibu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Death Valley Scenic Byway. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Colorado’s Gold Belt Tour & Historic Byway. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Phillips 66 & Bartlesville, OK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Minnesota’s North Shore Scenic Drive . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30New York’s Lakes to Locks Passage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Virginia’s Colonial Parkway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

DepartmentsByways Instant Connect . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Byways Preview. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Advertisers Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46Free Byways Subscription . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

What’s HappeningMEGA Quest opens in Louisville's underground: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Webcam Displays Breathtaking Geological Landmarks of Colorado Springs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Coming in future issues of Byways…Leading North America Tour Destinations . . .GreatAmerican Railroads, Mountains and Valleys, and much more!

At right: Tomb of theUnknown Soldier. Joinus as we celebrate the150th anniversary ofArlington NationalCemetary.

Volume 30, Issue No. 5, 2013

On the cover. Bixby Bridge in Big Sur, California. GreatAmerican Roads coverage begins on page 8 with the HistoricColumbia River Highway. To learn more about California’s PacificCoast Highway, turn to page 14.

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Great American Roads

The Columbia River flows peacefully past Memaloose Island on a sunnyday. A local pioneer named Victor Trevitt is buried on Memaloose Island.

Any way you look at it, the Historic ColumbiaRiver Highway Scenic Byway is a marvel—forits visionary engineering, incredible scenery, and

rich history. Internationally lauded for spectacular water-falls, architectural gems, and magnificent overlooks ofthe Columbia River Gorge, it’s no wonder thisByway has been called “King of Roads.”

Construction of the Historic Columbia River Highwaybegan in 1913, and was considered one of the greatestengineering feats of the modern age. Its engineer,Samuel C. Lancaster, did “not [want] to mar what Godhad put there,” and worked diligently to showcase themany waterfalls and other “beauty spots” on the high-way’s route through the Columbia Gorge. There arenumerous historic resources along the highway. In fact,the Historic Columbia River Highway, the first scenichighway in the U.S., is a National Historic Landmark.

Samuel Lancaster certainly had a magnificent paletteto work with. The Columbia River Gorge is 80 mileslong and up to 4,000 feet deep, cutting the only sea-lev-el route through the Cascade Mountain Range. Lavaflows created the substrate and the Missoula Floods cutthrough this substrate much later to create the toweringcliffs of columnar basalt that make up the Gorge. The

Gorge includes 16 endemic plant species (those that existonly within the Gorge) and over 150 rare plant species,and is rich with animal life. The Historic Columbia RiverHighway Scenic Byway offers ever-shifting perspectivesof the Gorge, including sweeping panaromas from 900feet above the river. Hikers will delight in the many trailsalong the Byway, some of which lead to hidden water-falls.

As its name implies, the Byway is incredibly rich incultural history. This stretch of the Columbia once servedas fishing and meeting grounds for the many indigenouspeoples of the Columbia Basin. The Dalles was a highlysignificant trading and rendezvous site throughout histo-ry and prehistory. Lewis and Clark’s Corps of Discoverytraveled through the Gorge on the Columbia River on itsway to the Pacific Ocean. Oregon Trail Pioneers alsotraveled down the Columbia River Gorge in the mid1800s. The region’s rich history is preserved in severalmuseums along the route.Troutdale and the Sandy

To begin your journey from Portland, take Interstate84 east to exit 17. Follow the signs through the quainttown of Troutdale and over the Sandy River to theHistoric Columbia River Highway. In 1805, Lewis and

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Oregon’s Columbia River Highway

Clark camped along the banks of the Sandy, which rangritty with ash from the 1802 eruption of volcanic MountHood. The road follows the Wild and Scenic SandyRiver for several miles, then climbs past orchards andblueberry fields through the communities of Springdaleand Corbett, offering glimpses of snow-capped MountHood.Gorgeous Vistas from Crown Point

At the Portland Women’s Forum State Scenic overlookat Chanticleer Point, you get your first glance of theColumbia River and the Gorge: this is the vista thatinspired the Highway’s founding father, Sam Hill. Thestone guard walls and graceful arches are typical of thehighway’s exquisite craftsmanship. The Vista House atCrown Point is an Oregon treasure, one of the most pho-tographed and recognizable in the Columbia RiverGorge. Built as a memorial to Oregon pioneers, it offersan inspiring view of the Gorge and the mountains of theCascade Range.Unforgettable Falls

To help motorists navigate the 600-foot vertical dropfrom Crown Point, Lancaster engineered a series ofwhat’s known as “figureeight loops” that gracefullywind down toward the river. You’re soon surrounded bymossy tree limbs, the greenery enhanced by a series ofremarkable waterfalls in the next five miles: Latourell,Shepperd’s Dell, Bridal Veil, and Wahkeena. Soon you’llreach the granddaddy of Columbia Gorge waterfalls—

620-foot Multnomah Falls. Only three waterfalls in thenation are taller—and none is more beautiful. A trailfrom Multnomah Falls Lodge (built in 1925 and listed inthe National Register of Historic Places) takes you to thelower cascade, then zigzags to the top. A little fartherdown the road, Horsetail Falls plummets close enough tothe road to mist your windows. Before the Byway joinsInterstate 84, at the community of Dodson, you’ll passOneonta Gorge, a botanical paradise with more than 50species of plants that flourish in the damp, cool environs.Bonneville Dam to Hood River

For the next 25 miles, you’ll leave the HistoricHighway for modern—yet still beautiful—Interstate 84.The Gorge’s dramatic geologic formations are a high-light of this segment. Engineering and fishing buffs willwant to visit the Bonneville Dam, the first structure torestrain the mighty Columbia. In nearby Cascade Locks,travelers can leave the car for a sternwheeler cruise of theColumbia. More intrepid watersports enthusiasts willwant to take to the Columbia at Hood River. Here, theGorge acts as a wind tunnel to create consistent breezesthat have made this once sleepy orchard town the unof-ficial windsurfing capital of the world.From Mosier to the community of Rowena

In the 12 miles from Hood River to Mosier, you’llnotice a dramatic change in the scenery. It’s here that the“two Oregons” meet. As you reach Mosier and the sec-ond leg of the Historic Columbia River Highway (off

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exit 76), the moist and lush western Gorge gives way todry, eastern Columbia River plateau. Once a boomingtrade center, Mosier is still famous for its springtimeblossoms, fat juicy cherries, and the community’s unri-valed passion for native plants. Just west of Mosier, youcan walk or bike the Historic Columbia River HighwayState Trail through the restored Mosier Twin Tunnels andon to Hood River. Elegant Mayerdale Estate appearsunexpectedly on this rural stretch of the road. Look forMemaloose Island in the Columbia, a traditional burialsite of Native American peoples of the Columbia Basinthat was partially flooded following the construction ofBonneville Dam. Farther east, be sure to linger at theviewpoint at Rowena Crest, which affords sweepingGorge views rivaling those of Crown Point, and accessto the wildflower wonders of Tom McCall Preserve.The Dalles

The Historic Columbia River Highway spans theextremes of Oregon’s landscape, from the damp andmossy western beginning along the banks of the SandyRiver to the dry oak savannahs skirting ChenowethCreek near the historic The Dalles. The Dalles was longa Native American gathering place and is rich in OregonTrail lore. Before you leave the Historic Highway as youenter The Dalles, you’ll find the Columbia GorgeDiscovery Center and Wasco County HistoricalMuseum. Built as the interpretive center for theNational Scenic Area, the Discovery Center has answersto all your questions about the Gorge’s history. At theMuseum, you’ll learn about the earliest inhabitants andhear tales of the traders and settlers who came later. Asyour tour over the Historic Columbia River Highway

comes to a close, consider beginning a new journey tothe Lewis and Clark campsite at Rock Fort.Lewis and Clark Trail

In 1805, and again in 1806, the Corps of Discoverytraveled through the Columbia River Gorge. Severalimportant sites mentioned in the journals of Lewis andClark can still be seen in this area. An interpretive signlocated at Lewis and Clark State Park describes the nam-ing of the Sandy River as  the “quicksand” river.Additional markers are located at Rooster Rock,Cascade Locks and Rock Fort in The Dalles.Bonneville Dam

A little more than 10 years after the Historic ColumbiaRiver Highway was finished, the face of the Gorge beganto change dramatically. Bonneville Dam, begun in 1933,raised the water level significantly. The interpretive cen-ter that may be accessed from exit 40 on Interstate 84highlights the history of the dam, and the fish ladder.Depending on the time of year you visit, you can watchsalmon, steelhead sturgeon and other species from thedam’s fish viewing station. Best times for viewing arespring and fall. While the Northwest gained a powerfulsupply of electricity and flood control with Bonnevilleand later dams, it lost significant historic and prehistoricresources—most notably traditional Native Americanfishing sites that were so critical to their culture. The lossof these cultural sites—and the depleted salmonstocks—has had a lasting impact on the Native Americancommunities.

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An Epic Coastal Cruise:San Francisco to Malibu

Alcatraz as viewed from Fisherman’s Warfin San Francisco.Photo courtesy Visit California.

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An unforgettable drive along California’sspectacular coast.

From the wild coastline of Northern California toMalibu beaches lined by celebrity homes, a drivealong California’s iconic

Highway 1 is one for the bucket list.Take a few days to savor this legendary road trip, also

known as the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH). Head southfrom San Francisco on twisting coastal roads and stop atsome of the state’s most unforgettable destinations, likeworld-renowned Monterey Bay Aquarium literallyhanging over sparkling Monterey Bay, and HearstCastle, the hilltop estate of legendary business magnateWilliam Randolph Hearst. There’s natural splendor trac-ing the cliffs of Big Sur, where roadside turnouts mightafford not just a beautiful photo, but spouting graywhales migrating between Alaska and Mexico. Picture-perfect coastal communities beckon throughout—fromartsy Carmel-by-the-Sea and its storybook cottages tothe “American Riviera” of Santa Barbara with itsMediterranean architecture and lavish gardens.

San Francisco to Santa Cruz: Redwoods,wine-country, and roller coasters.

Less than an hour from San Francisco, just off thehighway along the San Mateo coast, relax on beacheshidden within rocky coves, or hike on trails with gor-geous views of waves surging into offshore boulders.

Just north of the Santa Cruz County line, Highway 1reaches Ano Nuevo State Natural Reserve, one ofCalifornia’s most remarkable wildlife areas. It’s home tonorthern elephant seals, which are aptly named for theirmass (males can weigh 6,000 pounds/2,722 kilograms— as much as a sport utility vehicle) and trunk-likenoses. Northern elephant seals nearly went extinct but ahunting ban helped their population recover. IsolatedCalifornia locations like Ano Nuevo provided sanctuary,and now their numbers have grown to 160,000. (You canalso see elephant seals north of Hearst Castle at PiedrasBlancas in San Luis Obispo County.)

About 20 miles past Ano Nuevo, Highway 1 reachesSanta Cruz. Thanks to the historic Santa Cruz BeachBoardwalk (home to the Giant Dipper, a vintage wood-en roller coaster), the city has been a seaside escape for

Cannery Row in Monterey.Photo courtesy Visit Callifornia.

Californians for more than a century. Santa Cruz alsoserves as a gateway to state parks where fog-shroudedredwoods grow to 300 feet/91 meters. It’s also a thrivingwine region celebrated for pinot noir and chardonnay.And despite its chilly waters (averaging about57°F/14°C year-round), the coast here is internationallyrenowned for surfing—particularly big wave surfing atworld-famous breaks like Mavericks. Learn about localhistory at the Santa Cruz Surfing Museum, then watchsurfers in action at Steamer Lane.Monterey to Big Sur: Fishing history, a stellar aquarium, and amazing coastalsplendor.

Highway 1 follows the sweep of Monterey Bay until itreaches California’s original capital city, Monterey. Thecity is filled with reminders of California’s Spanish andMexican eras, most notably at Monterey State HistoricPark, which preserves more than 400 years of history.

Nearby Cannery Row blends tourist attractions,including an IMAX theater, with remnants of the 1900ssardine industry made famous by novelist JohnSteinbeck. Located on the site of Cannery Row’s lastprocessing plant rises the must-see Monterey BayAquarium, which uses extraordinary exhibits and mas-sive tanks filled with sea life to literally take you beneaththe waves and into Monterey Bay’s rich and diversemarine world.

From the aquarium, continue south along the coastpast pretty and wild Asilomar State Beach to the start ofthe famous 17-Mile Drive, which winds past oceanfrontestates and Pebble Beach’s legendary golf courses. Headinto the charming town of Carmel-by-the-Sea to browseshops and galleries (the town has long been an artists’

haven), and visit the elegant Mission San Carlos deBorromeo, dedicated in 1770 and one of 21 missionsbuilt along the California coast by Spanish padres.

Beyond Carmel, the coast takes on a wilder character.First, there’s Point Lobos State Natural Reserve, laudedas “the greatest meeting of land and water in the world,”with granite coves where harbor seals and sea otters findshelter from the pounding surf, and Monterey cypresstrees—so rare they only grow in one other place onEarth— cut handsome silhouettes against the sky.

South from here, things get even wilder. Sweepingviews take in the roiling ocean as massive fog banks(thickest in summer) veil the mountains. State park trails

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The Hollywood Bowl.Photo courtesy Visit California.

Santa Cruz Beach & Boardwalk.

let you escape into cathedral-like redwood groves, wherewaterfalls plunge into fern-lined grottoes or, at 70-foot/21-meter McWay Falls in Julia Pfeiffer Burns StatePark, off cliffs to the beach below.Hearst Castle to Santa Barbara and Malibu:Opulent splendor to movie-star dazzle.

After 30 miles/48 kilometers of Big Sur’s serpentinetwists, Highway 1 flattens out across the ranchlands ofSan Luis Obispo County. Newspaper magnate WilliamRandolph Hearst once owned much of this land andchose a commanding promontory for his dream estate,La Cuesta Encantada (The Enchanted Hill). Just abouteveryone knows it as Hearst Castle, and, by any name,it’s the grandest home ever built in the U.S. Tours leadthrough formal gardens and into 165 rooms filled with aneclectic mix of priceless art and antiquities.

Past Hearst Castle, Highway 1 rolls past broad beach-es and Morro Rock, the 600-foot/183-meter-tall volcanicoutcrop dubbed “the Gibraltar of the Pacific.” By thispoint, you may have realized that there isn’t oneCalifornia coast but many. The mood keeps changing,from Pismo Beach’s landmark pier and vintage beachtown atmosphere to the otherworldly beauty of toweringsand dunes (the West Coast’s highest) at Guadalupe-Nipomo Dunes.

Highway 1 twists inland here to reveal more classicCalifornia. At Lompoc, visit another restored mission at

La Purisima Mission State Historic Park and its 2,000acres of parkland. Or taste outstanding pinot noirs in thenearby Sta. Rita Hills wine region.

Then, after winding through oak-studded hills, thehighway drops through Gaviota Pass and swings back to

Seals relax at Malibu, Robert H. Meyer MemorialState Beach, La Piedra State Beach

Photo courtesy Visit California.

Downtown Los Angeles. Photo courtesy Visit California.

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the coast. With the Channel Islands hovering in the mists25 miles offshore, you soon reach Santa Barbara. Here,breezes rustle palm trees and an almost tropical lightwashes over the city’s white walls, red-tiled roofs, andbougainvillea-cloaked paseos. But for all of its regalMediterranean atmosphere, the good life—SouthernCalifornia-style—plays out along Santa Barbara’soceanfront, as kayakers and stand-up paddle-boardersglide along beaches where volleyball players battle to the

very last point.From Santa Barbara, it’s only 90 miles/145 kilometers

more to Los Angeles. But what a 90 miles! There are theantique stores and cafes of Ventura’s restored downtown,and trails into the canyons and wildflower-filled mead-ows of Santa Monica Mountains National RecreationArea near Malibu. Oh, and Malibu Beach? Watch close-ly: you really can see movie stars splashing in the surf.

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Death Valley Scenic Byway

California SR 190 and Death Valley at theDaylight Pass Highway junction.

Agateway to over 3.3 million acres of spectacularscenery, expansive vistas, rare desert wildlife,and historical and cultural sites; this byway trav-

els through sculpted hills and shifting sand dunes andeven dips below sea level. Death Valley features the low-est point and the hottest place in North America.

The path of California State Route 190 east of thePanamint Range in Death Valley National Park was fol-lowed in late 1849 and early 1850 by the Death Valley'49ers, a group of '49ers that had left the Old SpanishTrail at Enterprise, Utah to look for a shortcut to WalkerPass.

The second boom in Death Valley was tourism, startedin the 1920s by Herman Eichbaum. After several failuresin getting a toll road approved from Lida, Nevada or overTowne Pass, he scaled back plans to include only the partof the latter route between southeast of Darwin and hisresort at Stovepipe Wells. The new Eichbaum Toll Roadwas certified complete on May 4, 1926, and toll rateswere set: $2 per motor vehicle and 50¢ per person.

The Death Valley National Monument was created onFebruary 11, 1933, and in December 1934 the Divisionof Highways paid $25,000 for the 30.35-mile road, giv-ing the 17 miles east of the park boundary at the pass tothe National Park Service.22 • Byways

A view of the Panamint Valley. It can be seen to the east of milepost 48.6.Photo courtesy of National Park Service.

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A 500-foot deep hole createdby bulging magma under-

neath the surface of theearth now gives this section

of Death Valley an other-wordly appearance.

Photo courtesy NationalPark Service.

Once the life blood of the Death Valley region, Borax mining was highly dependenton the Harmony Borax Works, which was made up of several industrial buildings.Photo courtesy National Park Service.

The Gold Belt Tour follows historic railroad andstagecoach routes leading to North America'sgreatest gold camp, three world-class fossil sites,

and numerous historic sites. The Shelf and PhantomCanyon Roads cut along unpaved routes through wind-ing canyons. Five byway communities allow a glimpseinto this area's rich heritage.

The Gold Belt Byway is made up mostly of roads thatconnected mining towns to the Arkansas Valley. On theByway you will see many abandoned mines, buildings,and towns that prospered during the Colorado GoldRush. Along the Byway you will see numerous buildingsthat have been unchanged since the mines went bust.Although gold is no longer the main mining export ofthis region many mines still exist.

Phantom Canyon Road is a scenic road that connectsCañon City and Victor. The road goes through Phantom24 • Byways

A cloud-filled sky and rolling mountains grace the skyline on a peaceful drivealong the Gold Belt Byway in Colorado. Photo courtesy Sally Pearce.

The northern portion ofthe Shelf Road. Photocourtesy Bureau of LandManagement.

Colorado’s Gold Belt Tour& Historic Byway

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Cripple Creek was the financial and social hub of the Cripple Creek Mining District. Today,many buildings in Cripple Creek's business district have been renovated or restored. Photo courtesy Bureau of Land Management.

Several areas of the Byway offer impressiveviews of 14,110-foot Pikes Peak, one of

Colorado's most famous landmarks.Pnoto courtesy Bureau of Land Management.

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Canyon. The road has twotunnels and three elevatedbridges and many camplocations. It was originallythe route of a railroad thatconnected Florence andCripple Creek. The routecontains many narrowroads and high woodenbridges and is is unpaved.

Shelf Road is a portionof the Byway goingthrough Fourmile Canyon.It was originally used as astagecoach road. The cliffsof the canyon near ShelfRoad offer some of thebest sport climbing inColorado.

High Park road was thefirst route to connect goldmines with the ArkansasValley. Unlike Shelf Roadand Phantom Canyon roadit doesn't run through a canyon and is paved. High ParkRoad is located in an area where cattle ranching takesplace.

Teller County Road 1 was the first stagecoach route toCripple Creek and thus it is called County Road 1. It is apaved road and offers diverse views of scenery. Along

the road are steep mountains and rolling hills where cat-tle graze.

Over 500 underground mines were located within theCripple Creek Mining District. These mines producedmore gold than the Alaska and California gold rushescombined.

In Cañon City'sNational His-toric District,the St. CloudHotel has stoodat the corner of7th and Mainsince 1888.Photo courtesyBureau of LandManagement.

The company that makes Phillips 66 gasoline beganin 1917 as Phillips Petroleum Company, foundedby L.E. Phillips and Frank Phillips of Bartlesville,

Oklahoma. Attracted by the oil boom, Frank and L.E. Phillips,

two brothers raised on an Iowa farm, came to Bartlesvillein 1904. They hit a gusher north of Bartlesville, followedby 80 straight producers.

The two founded Phillips Petroleum Company in1917. Phillips grew to become the city's largest employ-er. Chiefly white-collar workers areemployed by ConocoPhillips inBartlesville, as the industrial extractionand refining work is done elsewhere inthe state and throughout the world.

In 1927, the company's gasoline wasbeing tested on U.S. Highway 66 inOklahoma, and when it turned out thatthe car was going 66 mph, which wasfast at the time, the company decided toname the new fuel Phillips 66.

The first Phillips 66 service stationopened November 19, 1927, inWichita, Kansas. This station has beenpreserved by the local historical society.Phillips 66 Logo

The Phillips 66 shield logo, created for its link to thehighway of the same number, was introduced in 1930 in

a black and orange color scheme that would last nearly30 years. In 1959, Phillips introduced a revised versionof the shield in red, white and black, a color scheme stillused by Phillips 66 Company for the brand.

From the late 1930s until the 1960s, Phillips employedregistered nurses as "Highway Hostesses," who madeperiodic and random visits to Phillips 66 stations withintheir regions. The women inspected station restroomfacilities to ensure they were well cleaned and stocked.The Highway Hostesses also served as ambassadors for

the company by directing motorists tosuitable dining and lodging facilities.

Phillips also had gasoline stations inCanada's western provinces ofAlberta, British Columbia, Manitoba,and Saskatchewan under the namePacific 66 until the late 1970s. In1946, Phillips purchased the Utah-based Wasatch Oil Co., bringing thePhillips 66 brand to the northernRocky Mountain states and the fareastern portions of Oregon andWashington. In 1966, Phillips enteredthe West Coast market by purchasingTidewater Oil Company's refining and

marketing properties in that region and rebranding allFlying A distributorships and service stations to Phillips66.

In 1967, Phillips became the nation's second oil com-28 • Byways

Museum replica of Phillips 66 gasoline station in Bassett, Nebraska.

Phillips 66 andBartlesville, OK

pany, after Texaco, to sell and marketgasoline in all 50 states, by opening aPhillips 66 station in Anchorage,Alaska.

Phillips' experiment in 50-state mar-keting was short-lived. The companywithdrew from gasoline marketing inthe northeastern U.S. in 1972. Today,Phillips 66 primarily operates in theMidwest and Southwest.

Oklahoma’s interest in Route 66 runsdeep. In 1927, Oklahoman business-man Cyrus Avery, known as the"Father of Route 66," began the cam-paign to create U.S. Route 66. Using astretch of highway from Amarillo,Texas to Tulsa, Oklahoma to form theoriginal portion of Highway 66, Averyspearheaded the creation of the U.S.Highway 66 Association to oversee the planning ofRoute 66, based in his hometown of Tulsa.

Today in Bartlesville you can visit the PhillipsPetroleum Company Museum and be inspired by the sto-ry of Phillips' transformation from a small Bartlesvillebusiness to a global energy enterprise, and the extraordi-nary people who made it happen.

Visit the Frank Phillips home. Although the houseitself is beautiful and ornate with rich importedPhilippine mahogany, handcrafted molded ceilings, and

Waterford crystal chandeliers, it is the original furnish-ings left by the Phillips family that make this tour anexperience to remember.

With a balanced mixture of natural resources andabundant space, Bartlesville has grown to be the home ofmore than 34,000 people. While it's true that many ofresidents work in the energy industry with companieslike ConocoPhillips, Phillips 66, and Schlumberger,there also exists a large, diverse employment base thatcontinues to expand.

http://www.visitbartlesville.com

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Downtown Bartlesville today.

The North Shore of Minnesota has what no otherplace in the Midwest can offer -- an inland sea, amountain backdrop, an unspoiled wilderness, and

a unique feeling all its own. The North Shore Scenic Drive is an All-

American Road scenic byway designatedroute that follows Saint Louis County Road 61/ Lake County Road 61 / State Highway 61from the city of Duluth, Minnesota to theCanadian border near Grand Portage. Theroute stays close to the rocky North Shore ofLake Superior, offering spectacular vistas ofthe lake to the southeast as it skirts along thefoothills of the Sawtooth Range to the north-west.

Drive the North Shore Scenic Drive fromDuluth to the Canadian Border, and along theway see some of the most spectacular sceneryin the country. Enjoy the natural treasures ofeight state parks and the Superior NationalForest.

The North Shore of Lake Superior runs from Duluth,at the southwestern end of the lake, to Thunder Bay andNipigon, Ontario, Canada, in the north to Sault Ste.Marie, Ontario, in the east. The shore is characterized by

30 • Byways

Minnesota’s North Shore Scenic Drive

The white tower of Split Rock Lighthouse stands on the edge of sheer cliffson the shore of Lake Superior. © Explore Minnesota Tourism.

The Duluth Lakewalk, a boardwalk on Lake Superior,provides a place for joggers, walkers and others toenjoy the outdoors. Photo courtesy A. E. Crane.

alternating rocky cliffs and cobblestone beaches, withrolling hills and ridges covered in boreal forest inlandfrom the lake, through which scenic rivers and waterfallsdescend as they flow to Lake Superior.

The beautiful trails of the parks and the 200-mileSuperior Hiking Trail offer unlimited opportunities toexperience firsthand this magnificent landscape. If youwant to enjoy the lake itself, charter fishing, sailing,kayaking, and excursion boats are popular alternatives toswimming in these scenic northern waters.

The rich history of the North Shore is deeply rooted inits plentiful natural resources. On the northern end of thebyway, visit Grand Portage National Monument, whichfeatures a reconstructed North West Company fur-trad-ing post.

Stop in Grand Marais, a quaint harbor town that is theentrance to the Gunflint Trail, a paved trail leading inlandto the Boundary Water Canoe Area Wilderness. At thesouthern end of the byway, watch giant ore boats pull upto the docks at Two Harbors. Also visit a much smallerboat, the 100-year-old tugboat The Edna G., which isdisplayed here. Learn the story of this area in smallmuseums in Two Harbors and Tofte, as well as interpre-tive programs at the state parks.

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Tettegouche State Park in Minnesota on the North Shore of Lake Supe-rior; photo taken from Palisade Head (foreground) looking NE to ShovelPoint.

High Falls of the Pigeon River on theCanada–United States border, GrandPortage State Park, Minnesota.

32 • Byways

The view of Fort Ticonderoga and Lake Champlainfrom Mount Defiance.

New York’s Lakes toLocks Passage

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Midway between Manhattan and Montreal, theLakes to Locks Passage lets you experience theinterconnected waterway that shaped the des-

tiny of North America.The byway unifies the interconnected waterway of the

upper Hudson River, Champlain Canal, Lake George,and Lake Champlain; this waterway is the core of NorthAmerica’s first "super-highway" between upstate NewYork and the Canadian province of Quebec.

The U.S. portion of the passage is a New York StateScenic Byway, a National Scenic Byway, and an All-American Road.

The byway extends from just north of Albany to thevicinity of the Canada-United States border at RousesPoint as a highway and as a waterway. The waterwayroute continues north into Canada to connect with the St.Lawrence River.

The distinctive influence of French, English and Dutchsettlers is still evident today in the communities along therivers, waterfalls and lakeshore harbors. By bike, foot,boat, train, motorcoach or car, Lakes to Locks Passageprovides access to charming cities, rural landscapes and34 • Byways

The LaChute River flows through Ticonderogain New York, allowing visitors to sneak a peakat the river's dramatic cascades.The Saratoga Monument, located in the Villageof Victory, commemorates the surrender of theBritish General Burgoyne to American GeneralGates, an event that historians note as the"Turning Point of the American Revolution."

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Adirondack hamlets. Through all four seasons, you cantravel through numerous historic, natural, cultural andrecreational experiences along the scenic waterway thatlinks upstate New York to southern Quebec.

A series of 32 Waypoint Communities have been des-ignated to "meet and greet" the Lakes to Locks Passagevisitor. Community museums and attractions serve asLakes to Locks Passage Heritage Centers. Nearly everycommunity has a driving, biking or walking tour.

The waterway route extends from the Erie Canal(Mohawk River) at Cohoes, 9 miles (14 km) north ofAlbany and 1 mile southwest of Waterford, to the St.Lawrence River at Sorel-Tracy, Quebec, 40 miles north-east of Montreal. This waterway was North America'sfirst inter-connected waterway that shaped the nation-building activities of the United States and Canada.

It provides access to over 225 miles of diverse historic,natural, cultural and recreational sites along theChamplain Canal, upper Hudson River, Lake George,and Lake Champlain in New York, and the ChamblyCanal and Richelieu River in Quebec.

As an All-American Road, Lakes to Locks Passage isone of a select group of roadways in the country that theFederal Highway Administration promotes as a "premierdestination" in their marketing efforts for national andinternational tourism.

http://www.lakestolocks.org36 • Byways

Sunset falls on Lake Champlain wherethe lake vermont separates Vermontand New York state.

The bridge makes for an exciting vantage pointto see the waterfalls and buildings in Ausable

Chasm. Photo courtesy Katie Armstrong.

Byways • 37

It only takes an hour to drive Virginia's ColonialParkway, but in that time you'll discover a part ofAmerica's history that is taught

in every classroom in the country.The Colonial Parkway not only

illustrates the English colonialexperience in America, but is alsoan outstanding example ofAmerican parkway design.Retaining its original scenic andhistoric integrity to a remarkabledegree, the 23-mile route connectsthe historic sites of Jamestown,Williamsburg and Yorktown.

The parkway is part of theNational Park Service's ColonialNational Historical Park.

With portions built between1930 and 1957, the ColonialParkway links the three communi-ties via a roadway carefully shield-ed from views of commercialdevelopment; a major effort hasalso been made to keep traffic

signs and other modern roadside items to a minimum,and make them unobtrusive where unavoidable. This

38 • Byways

Virginia’s Colonial Parkway

From the pathway, Jamestown Island can be seen in thethe misty distance. Photo courtesy National Park Service,Colonial National Historical Park.

One of the many red brick tunnels that help divert the trafficaway from the historic setting of Colonial Willamsburg. Photo

by National Park Service, Colonial National Historical Park.

Byways • 39

The Governor’s Palace at Colonial Williamsburg, was once the home to Williamsburg'sgovernor. It was reconstructed in 1935. Photo courtesy Katie Armstrong.

helps visitors mentally return to the past, and there areoften views of wildlife and waterfowl in addition to theriver panoramas near each end.

The roadway, a National Scenic Byway and All-American road (one of only 27 in the U.S.), is free oftrucks and is a popular (but not the quickest) way tomove by motor vehicle between the three points, espe-cially for visitors. Near the James River and York Riverends of the parkway, there are several pull-offs.

The western end of the parkway begins at Jamestown,where the Virginia colony was begun in 1607 on theshore of the James River. Some visitors begin their expe-rience by approaching the entire area from the south viaState Route 10 to Surry, and then across the James Riverand arriving by water on the Jamestown Ferry. The mid-dle point of the Parkway is Williamsburg, where the cap-ital of the colony was moved from Jamestown in 1699.The parkway tunnels under the historic district ofColonial Williamsburg. The eastern end of the Parkwayis Yorktown, where General Cornwallis surrendered toGeorge Washington in 1781, ending the AmericanRevolution.

The Colonial Parkway took over 25 years to createfrom concept to completion. By 1937, the road wascompleted to just outside Williamsburg. There was somedebate over the routing in the Williamsburg area, andeventually a tunnel was selected. The tunnel under thehistoric district of Colonial Williamsburg was completedby 1942, but opening was delayed by World War II andsome structural and flooding problems. It finally openedfor traffic in 1949, leaving only the Williamsburg-to-Jamestown section to be built.

On April 27, 1957, the Colonial Parkway was openedfor traffic along the entire route between Yorktown andJamestown. Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain and herconsort Prince Philip made a state visit that year.

The Colonial Parkway has been carefully maintained.Priority is given wetlands ecosystems and the naturalgrowth as well as wildlife and waterfowl preservation.The scenic shoreline areas along the two major tidalrivers present extra challenges with many bridges andfills.

40 • Byways

Shady roads and beautiful scenery welcome visitors along the ColonialParkway.Photo courtesy National Park Service, Colonial National Historical Park.

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Rusty cannons line up on a bright green lawn, representing oneof the many relics of the past at the Yorktown Battlefield.

MEGA Quest opens inLouisville's underground:Aerial ropes challengecourse provides highenergy adventure

The world's only fully underground aerial ropeschallenge course has opened at Louisville MEGACavern.

MEGA Quest features more than 75 challenging ropeelements and provides participants with a high-energyadventure that will test the strength and agility of all skilllevels.

42 • BywaysThe Mega Tram tour at Louisville MEGA Cavern.

High energy rope challenga atMEGA Quest.

Louisville MEGA Cavern wasnamed the No. 1 tourist attractionin Louisville by Trip Advisor, it isideal for thrill seekers, families,businesses and organizations look-ing for a fun and unique atmos-phere.

"Aerial ropes challenge coursesare the hottest extreme adventuresport in Europe and are quicklygaining popularity in the UnitedStates," said Jim Lowery, co-own-er of Louisville MEGA Cavern."There is nothing like this in ourregion, and nothing like it under-ground in the entire world."

The man-made cavern spansunder a number of roadways above and is part of 17miles of corridors located beneath the city ofLouisville, Kentucky. It’s ag r e a t

tour for allages—whether you want to learn

about science and history or simply want to seewhat a giant man-made cavern of this magni-tude looks like!

You’ll hop on an SUV-pulled tram and bejoined by a MEGA Cavern expert who willguide you on your underground adventure.

MEGA Quest is the fourth attraction devel-oped in the Louisville MEGA Cavern since itopened in 2009. The venue is also home toLouisville MEGA Cavern Tram Tour, LightsUnder Louisville Christmas Light Show andMEGA ZIPS.

"This visionary endeavor has quicklybecome the talk of the tourism industry," saidJim Wood, president and CEO of theLouisville Convention & Visitors Bureau."This latest feature is an amazing addition to aphenomenal attraction that enhances our city'sworldwide appeal."

Louisville MEGA Cavern is an all-weatherattraction. The temperature inside the cavernhovers at a comfortable 58 degrees year round.

Because you ride through the cavern andnever walk, Louisville MEGA Cavern is espe-cially convenient for parents with small chil-dren, seniors and group tours, and thephysically challenged.

For ticket prices and more information, visitwww.louisvillemegacavern.com or call (877)-614-6342.

Byways • 43

What’s HappeningWhat’s Happening

The world’s only underground Zip Line.

Webcam Displays Breathtaking GeologicalLandmarks of ColoradoSprings

The view has inspired the words to America theBeautiful, the highest Cog Railway in the worldand a paved highway to the summit that hosts the

second oldest motorsports event, “Race to the Clouds”.Pikes Peak, also known as America’s Mountain, offersspectacular beauty to those who have gazed upon its glo-ry over the centuries. Sitting at 14,115 feet, it is the 30thhighest “fourteener” (mountains with an elevation

exceeding fourteen thousand feet) in Colorado. Thisiconic landmark is the second most-visited mountainnext to Mt. Fuji in Japan.

Now, through the power of the web, people can see thesplendor of the mountain from their desktop, laptop,Smartphone or tablet anytime they please. Of coursenothing beats the real thing, but those needing a fix of thegorgeous Colorado Rocky Mountains can click-onwww.VisitCOS.com/webcam anytime the mood strikes.

The Lodge at the Garden of the Gods Club, in con-junction with the Garden of the Gods Visitor & NatureCenter, graciously hosts the camera that gazes upon thepeak framed by the vibrant red hues of Garden of theGods Park. “We are excited to partner with Garden of theGods Visitor & Nature Center and the Colorado Springs

44 • Byways

Ackerman Overlook near United States Air ForceAcademy off Interstate 25 in Colorado Springs.Photo courtesy Billy Hathorn.

Convention & Visitors Bureau to showcase the breath-taking beauty of the Garden of the Gods landmark on thenew live webcam featured on VisitCOS.com. We cannow share with web users across the world the incredi-ble natural setting that we enjoy every day,” says LodgeGeneral Manager Billy Peterson.

Combined, Pikes Peak, the Garden of the Gods Visitor& Nature Center and Garden of the Gods Park see

upwards of 2.8 million visitors annually. “Whether peo-ple are reminiscing about past visits, or dreaming ofthose to come, this is our postcard to the world,” articu-lates Colorado Springs Visitors Bureau CEO andPresident Doug Price.

Other area live cams include the giraffe herd andmeerkats at Cheyenne Mountain Zoo and the summitcamera courtesy of the Pikes Peak Cog Railway.

Byways • 45

Garden of the Gods

The Royal Gorge Bridge connects the rimsof the Royal Gorge near Cañon City.Image courtesy Matt Inden/Miles.

46 • Byways

Byways is published bi-monthly by Byways, Inc. and distributed electronically throughout North America.Byways is emailed to more than 4000 tour operators plus selected travel agencies through the internet. Subscriptionsare complimentary. An iPad & iPhone version is available for consumers in iTunes and Newsstand in the App Store.

Byways’ distribution includes motorcoach companies, tour operators, and selected travel agents, bank travel man-agers, school band and athletic planners, and meeting planners. For advertising rates, editorial deadlines, or to placeadvertising insertions, contact: Byways Magazine, 42 Cabin Hill Lane, Mount Jackson, VA 22842. Telephone 540-477-3202. Fax 540-477-3858. Toll-free 800-469-0062.

©Copyright 2013 by Byways, Inc. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be duplicated in anyform without express written permission of the publisher.

Editor and PublisherStephen M. Kirchner

Advertising Director1.800.469.0062 • 540.477.3202 • Fax 540.477.3858

Internet:bywaysmagazine.com byways@motorcoach.com

Advertisers Index

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Byways • 47

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