Gram ISSUE 61 // May 2016
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MELBOURNE ISSUE 61 FREEPLEASE
TAKE ME HOME
GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU
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EATING OUT
ROYAL MAIL HOTELMeg Osborne
MATCHA MYLKBARAmber De Luca-Tao
BAYSIDE BREWERYWOLF OF THE WILLOWSElla Pleasant and Dean Schmideg
REGULARSFEATURE
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CONTRIBUTORS
NEWLY OPENED
AROUND THE TRAPS
THINGS WE LOVE
REVIEWS
OUT AND ABOUT
THE DIARY
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CONTENTS
CITY PRECINCT FOODIE TOURBEING FED AND WATERED BY
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Lauren Kenrick - Foodie Melbourne
INTERNATIONAL
Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.
ON THE COVER: CARROTSThe carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) is a root vegetable, usually orange in colour, though purple, black, red, white, and yellow varieties exist.It has a crisp texture when fresh. The most commonly eaten part of a carrot is a taproot, although the greens are sometimes eaten as well. It is a domesticated form of the wild carrot Daucus carota, native to Europe and southwestern Asia. The domestic carrot has been selectively bred for its greatly enlarged and more palatable, less woody-textured edible taproot.(Source: Wikipedia)
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Jess Hourigan
DEPUTY EDITOR
Lauren Bruce
DEPUTY EDITOR
Megan Osborne
COVER DESIGN
ELEVATOR CREATIVE [email protected] www.elevatorcreative.com.au
ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
GENERAL ENQUIRIES: [email protected]
www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au
BRYAN PETROFF
BIG GAY ICE CREAMLauren Bruce
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CONTRIBUTORS
DEAN SCHMIDEG
A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is known as one of Melbourne’s coffee addicts and foodies, regularly seeking out new and interesting cafes and bars. He shares these and the things he prepares at home across social media. His posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together.
FACEBOOK: imagesdsINSTAGRAM: dsimagesTWITTER: imagesDSE: [email protected]
LAUREN BRUCE
Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.
laurendarcybruce.wordpress.comINSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia
ON THE BANDWAGON
Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian
craft beer industry as a passionate advocate
for local breweries and educating the
masses about the beer they are drinking.
He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo
Beer which runs many events including
the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop
festival.
TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon
INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon
ELLA PLEASANT
Digital marketer by day, fanatical foodie by night, the only thing Ella loves more than eating and drinking is talking about it online.
With a mission to hunt down the city’s best wining and dining establishments, she couldn’t be more chuffed (and stuffed) to share her foodie finds.
MEGAN OSBORNE
Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.
meganosborne.com.auTWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings
FOODIE MELBOURNE
I’m Lauren - a Melbourne born and bred food,
travel and social media addict, and founder of
the blog Foodie Melbourne.
I spend all my time thinking about my next
meal or my next holiday. I love all kinds of
food- from home cooking to food trucks to
fine dining, and feel so lucky to live in a city
that has it all!
foodiemelbourne.wordpress.com
INSTAGRAM: foodiemelbourne
AMBER DE LUCA-TAO
Hi! My name is Amber De Luca–Tao. I am
a second year Business and Journalism
student. I am half Italian and half Chinese. I
have a passion for lifestyle magazines and
an obsession with Melbourne breakfast
cafes. In my spare time I love to exercise,
take photos and update my blog.
ambershalfieworld.weebly.com
INSTAGRAM: ambershalfieworld
LA DONNA DEL VINO
La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this
Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things
vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone
who really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will
happily try anything once but has a penchant
for full-bodied whites, food-friendly reds and
a good digestive. In her spare time you’ll find
her gardening, cooking, dancing, drinking
good vino or working on her country property
with her husband Wootten.
ladonnadelvino.com
TWITTER: ladonnadelvino
FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino
THE GRAM STORE
25% OFF THE ENTIRE MOUNT ZERO RANGE
MAY ONLYCODE: MTZERO25
www.gramstore.com.au
MOUNT ZERO OLIVES SALE
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NOW OPEN
HAPPY PLACEOPENED: May 9, 2016Celebrated Nutritionist Lola Berry and coffee mastermind, Salvatore Malatesta (of St. Ali) have joined forces to launch “Happy Place” juice bar and café within the heart of South Melbourne Market. With the ultimate goal to deliver a sense of health and happiness to each and every customer, the aptly named “Happy Place” will open Friday May 6, 2016.
“Happy Place” is all about inspiring wellness and being a place where you can pick up healthy on-the-go meals, snacks, smoothies and juices, however, it’s also about empowering you to find the happy place within yourself,” says Lola Berry.
The menu is balanced between sweet and savoury goodies to satiate your appetite at any time – whether it’s a breakfast smoothie, a fresh desk-side salad, or a protein rich post workout treat.
STALL 56 - SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET, CECIL ST SOUTH MELBOURNE
UNTZ UNTZOPENED: March 8, 2016It is called UNTZ UNTZ (say it out loud) – a 280 capacity Band room with a side room that holds 60 people, all with a 24-hour liquor license. Boom. Please welcome UNTZ UNTZ to the Hawthorn Revival.
Stage One of UNTZ UNTZ (formerly known as Cheers to Melbourne’s Gen X’s and Y’s) is now complete with Stage Two being holy moly (pub designed by Michael Delaney) and Boozy Soozy (think $4 Lucky Coq and Bimbo Deluxe style of pizzas, but better because the local pizza god Henry Chan is behind the U.U venture, plus all your favourite cocktails on tap) joining the new and exciting Hawthorn precinct this September 2016.660A GLENFERRIE ROAD, HAWTHORNfacebook.com/untzuntz
ABOUT LIFEOPENED: May 1, 2016Australia’s largest and fastest growing holistic lifestyle hub, About Life, has opened its first Melbourne store on Bay Street, Port Melbourne. About Life is a one-stop shop for natural groceries, an inspired wholefoods café as well as a ready-to-eat nature’s servery. There is even an in-store wellness expert and concierge, all under one ethical, sustainable roof - rain, kale or shine! An annual 15% growth in the natural and organic industry since 2009 (Australian Organic Market Report 2014) proves Australia’s growing appetite for wellness. In 2016, About Life celebrates its 20th anniversary, advocating that wellness is not a trend but a lifestyle choice.
About Life’s promise is to eliminate the nasties - artificial preservatives, flavours, sweeteners, colours and more - found in conventional supermarkets and instead replace these with natural, ethical groceries that won’t break the bank or leave a large footprint.
120 BAY STREET, PORT MELBOURNEaboutlife.com.au
BLUEBONNET BBQOPENED: April 27, 2016Chris Terlikar and his team at Melbourne barbecue joint, Bluebonnet, have re-stoked their fires and are re-opening the doors at what was the iconic North Fitzroy Star. After their first location in Collingwood was devastated by fire in May 2015, Terlikar set up shop at ‘Carmelita’ to run successful pop ups at The John Curtin Hotel and the Point Lonsdale Surf Lifesaving Club.
To kick off the opening of Bar Loretta, Bluebonnet is teaming up with Stone and Wood for Good Beer Week with their Circle of Life dinner – celebrating all things grain, grass, pork and glass.
32 ST GEORGES ROAD SOUTH,FITZROY NORTHbluebonnetbbq.com.au
SAKE - FLINDERS LANEOPENED: April 28, 2016Melbourne’s world-renowned dining destination is now home to Saké Restaurant & Bar’s fifth contemporary Japanese restaurant – Saké Flinders Lane.Sprawled over two storeys in Melbourne’s famed gastronomic destination, Flinders Lane, this new Saké venue is a super-luxe, high-energy addition to Melbourne’s CBD. The entry level of the two-storey venue at 121 Flinders Lane includes a dramatic dining counter combining a sushi bar and spectacular robatayaki grill. The menu features dishes unique to the Flinders Lane venue, including Japanese staple yakitori, and the largest range of umeshu, sake and Japanese whisky of all the Saké venues
121 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNEsakerestaurant.com.au
ZERO GRADIOPENED: April 19, 2016Johnny Di Francesco, Melbourne’s pizza king and owner of renowned 400 Gradi and Gradi at Crown, is taking his first steps down a sweeter path - opening his first stand alone gelataria, Zero Gradi last month.
Opening just a few doors down from his flagship restaurant 400 Gradi on Lygon Street, the sweet delights on offer at Zero Gradi promise to transport customers straight to the heart of Italy – which is precisely what Johnny wants. The master pizza Chef says he has been considering the venture for a while, with the idea for Zero Gradi ignited by the longing for traditional Neapolitan gelato he feels every time he leaves his family’s homeland of Naples. SHOP 1/93-97 LYGON STREET EAST BRUNSWICK400gradi.com.au
AROUND THE TRAPS
AUSTRALIAN FOOD AWARDS
The Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria (RASV) has announced a new opportunity for Australian food producers with the launch of the Australian Food Awards.
Building on the success of RASV’s Royal Melbourne Fine Food Awards, the Australian Food Awards will offer broader opportunities to Australian producers to leverage their success locally and internationally with the Australian Food Awards’ national brand seal of excellence.
RASV CEO, Mark O’Sullivan said the introduction of the Australian Food Awards reflects the RASV’s ongoing commitment to enhancing its food and beverage award programs.
The Australian Food Awards offers eight overarching categories, including Dairy, Meat, Poultry, Seafood, Fresh Produce, Grains and Pulses, Pantry Goods and Convenience Foods.
“The eight categories incorporate the Royal Melbourne Fine Food Awards’ former 16 categories whilst expanding the program offering to introduce new categories that reflect growing consumer food trends, such as ready to eat and prepared meals in the Convenience Foods category, truffles in the Fresh Produce category and goat and pork in the Meat category,” said Mr O’Sullivan.
Entries will open on 24 May and more than 100 leading industry experts will judge the categories from 7 to 22 July. Due to seasonality, judging for Olive Oil will take place separately in August, with a further seasonal judging program in February. Enter online here: http://food.rasv.com.au
Mother’s Day
lAT THE MARKET
WHAT’S ON
l
MARKET OPEN 8AM - 4PMLIVE JAZZ 9AM - 12PM
BREAKFAST, BRUNCH, LUNCHFLOWERS, MASSAGE, GIFTS
Gift Guide and details at southmelbournemarket.com.au
Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days
Corner Coventry & Cecil Streets, South Melbourne
The new start up changing the way we experience food when we travel. Founded in Bangkok by two young foodies and travellers, Cookly is an online marketplace that connects people to culinary activities anywhere in the world. Both locals and travellers can use Cookly to connect to local professional chefs and established cooking schools in a number of Asian cities for a truly unique culinary experience.
Already, the young startup is planning for expansions into Japan, with more long term plans in place for other regions, including Australia, Europe and the Americas. Cookly will also grow to offer more than cooking classes. Activities on the horizon include wine tastings, food tours, mixology classes and much more.
cookly.me
Preston is bringing more than just your favourite street fare in 2016. Alongside Melbourne’s favourite food trucks and Barry’s Bar, The Food Truck Park™ brings new events and a diverse entertainment line-up to the former car-yard on High Street.
New Kids on The Block, Saturday May 7 – Want to try
the freshest food truck purveyors in Melbourne? New
Kids on the Block brings together the newest trucks to
satisfy attendees with a global mix of cuisines.
Euro Take Over, Friday May 13 – As Australia enters its
second year as Eurovision contenders The Food Truck
Park is celebrating with a huge Euro Take Over event.
Support your favourite nation with each food truck
serving up a different European cuisine plus DJ’s and
of course lots of colour.
Latin Fiesta Party, Saturday May 28 – Preston brings
Latin America to the north this May. An event to heat up
Melbournians in the colder months we are showcasing
the best in Latin food trucks from Brazil to Cuba.
Winter Foodie Fest, June 2016 – Throughout the
month of June Preston transforms into a magical and
tasty foodie fest boasting a spectacular light display,
light up figurines and a rotation of food trucks to warm
visitors this winter. With a vast indoor area Preston is
the perfect place to keep warm and sample the best in
street food this June.
World Environment Day, Saturday June 4 – Vegetarians,
vegans and ethically minded foodies will love our World
Environment Day event. Bringing Melbourne the best in
plant based street food this event features Melbourne’s
vego food truck favourites to Preston.
THE FOOD PARK TRUCK WINTER SERIES
AN INTERSECTION OF FOOD AND TECH
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WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN KENRICK
CITY PRECINCT FOOD TOUR: BEING FED AND WATERED BY
3000 Trawling through Melbourne’s laneways, tasting our city’s many culinary
delights with like-minded foodies is exactly how I want to be spending my
weekends, so an invite to the City Precinct Food Tour with the team from
GRAM Magazine was, for me, the perfect Saturday out.
One of my favourite elements about being a food blogger in Melbourne, is
the opportunity to meet the passionate and talented creatives behind-the-
scenes at restaurants, cafes and specialty food stores. The City Precinct
connects these passionate individuals, retail and hospitality alike, encouraging
networking and community. With more than 100 members, our City Precinct
Tour was but an introduction to this vibrant community of small, local, and
sometimes hidden, independent retailers, and I for one, can’t wait to go back.
CABOOSE CANTEEN4 City Square, Swanston Street, Melbourne
PH: 9663 4448
INSTAGRAM: caboosecanteen
TWITTER: CabooseCanteen
www.caboosecanteen.com.au
Our big day of eating began with a light breakfast at Caboose Canteen, a cosy
café in bustling City Square. A stone’s throw away from Federation Square
and housed amongst the hub of activity that is busy Swanston St, this café
hosts a prime position. Caboose Canteen offers simple, homely breakfast and
lunch dishes served by charismatic and entertaining staff.
CLEMENTINE’S
7 Degraves St, Melbourne
PH: 9639 2681
INSTAGRAM: clementines3000
FACEBOOK: clementines3000
www.clementines.com.au
A short walk away, the bright orange scooter parked in Degraves Street
guided us towards Clementine’s, home of some of Melbourne’s finest food
and giftware. Small in size but big in passion, this store is a haven for anyone
wanting to find unique Melbourne gifts (for friends, or for yourself) particularly
those of the artisan food variety.
It was inspiring to hear Melanie, the store’s owner, chat candidly about the
creators of the products she stocks. All are made in Victoria, usually small
batch or made solely by the owner, and she knows the names and backstories
of all of her suppliers. It is clear that this shop is ran with a true love and
fondness for Melbourne. Our morning tea consisted of some delicacies from
Asterisk foods, a small patisserie company located in leafy Warrandyte. The
charcoal lavosh crackers and raspberry meringues were so delicious I have
already jumped online to buy some more.
Clementine’s also supports Rooftop Bees, an organisation we should all
be aware of given the significant role bees play in our ecosystem. Not only
does Clementine’s sponsor a hive right above their shop on the rooftop of
Degraves St, you can also taste or purchase the honey from this hive. Just
wait until you taste the difference between supermarket bought honey and
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fresh honey from Melbourne’s own bees.
LA VITA BUONA44-86 Swanston St, Melbourne
PH: 9654 7855
INSTAGRAM: lavitabuona
TWITTER: lavitabuona
www.lavitabuona.com.au
Clementine’s gift bags in hand, we ambled back to City Square for our morning
tea stop at La Vita Buona (a sister restaurant to Caboose Canteen, and literally
located next door) and were all of a sudden transported to Italy. La Vita Buona
is a beautiful venue, featuring an elegant décor of blonde wood and exposed
brick walls. Not for the last time that day, we felt as though we had found a little
slice of Europe in the heart of the Melbourne CBD.
Not your traditional morning tea; we luxuriously nibbled on freshly made
antipasto whilst sipping on aperitifs and enjoyed the ambient surroundings, as
one should spend early afternoon on a Saturday in Melbourne. The wider menu
consists of European style share food, pastas and mains.
JOURNAL253 Flinders Ln, Melbourne
PH: 9650 4399
FACEBOOK: TheJournalCafe
TWITTER: JournalCafe
www.journalcafe.com.au
Feeling very relaxed after our leisurely morning, we moved on to discover
another of the City Precinct’s more unique and hidden members, the Journal
Café and Canteen discreetly tucked away in front of the City Library. On
entering the café, we were immediately hit by a combination of familiar and
comforting smells - toasted sandwiches, freshly roasted coffee and books.
Combined with dark wooden tables and leather seats, the café had such a
homely feel and seemed the perfect spot to read a book or catch up with
friends for some academic conversation. As we settled in and ordered a round
of coffees, we mused among ourselves that the vibe of this café was hipster,
but before hipster was even a trend.
I don’t think even our group of mega-foodies were expecting just how epic
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Journal’s club sandwiches would be; huge is an understatement.
Lightly toasted and filled with chicken, homemade mayonnaise with
dill and capers, tomato and lettuce. Traditional and simple, but with a
gourmet touch, and oh so Instagram worthy!
KIRKS WINE BAR & THE FRENCH SALOONLittle Bourke St, Melbourne VIC 3000
PH: 9600 4550
INSTAGRAM: kirkswinebar | frenchsaloon
FACEBOOK: Kirks-Wine-Bar | frenchsaloon
TWITTER: kirkswinebar | frenchsaloon
www.kirkswinebar.com
www.frenchsaloon.com
Sufficiently sandwiched, but still somehow able to muster up some
kind of appetite, we trekked to the very edge of popular Hardware
Lane to discover another somewhat hidden gem, Kirks Wine Bar and
the French Saloon. From the same genius that bought The European
to Melbourne, this two storey European style bar and bistro functions
as two separate spaces.
The upstairs French Saloon serves sophisticated French fare in a
relaxed, lofty space that doubles as a unique function room, complete
with its own terrace balcony. Kirks, on the ground level operates as
a Parisian style wine bar, offering share plates, including the most
brilliant charcuterie platter I have seen in Melbourne. Even with the
array of stunning food and wine on offer, for me, the most intriging
aspect about Kirk’s was the hidden away, private dining. Following
our waitress down a spiral metal staircase, Snapchat at the ready, we
all “oohed” and “aahed” as we were escorted into an intimate private
dining area (which also doubles as a wine cellar). Here we shared
French wine and freshly prepared charcuterie. Whilst Kirk’s website
states no bookings, let us tell you a little secret - this area can be
booked for lunch or dinner for six to 10 people.
GLAMP BAR267 Little Collins St, Melbourne VIC 3000
PH: 9650 2811
INSTAGRAM: glampbar
polepolebar.com.au
By this time of the day, after our aperitifs and wine, it was time for
some serious drinks. And who better to visit for serious drinks than
the cocktail master himself, Ben Hehir of Glamp Bar, the stylish
African inspired venue situated above Polepole.
Ben’s bar tending resume is incredibly impressive, having worked
in some of London and New York’s best cocktail bars and having
trained under the inventor of the espresso martini himself, Dick
Bradsell. The perfect afternoon ‘pick me ups’ after a long day of
eating and touring, Ben prepared for us some of the most incredible
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coffee based cocktails I have tried. The Coffee Negroni even had those
of us who weren’t usually keen on Negronis, completely swooning.
Just as inspiring as his cocktails, was Ben’s philosophy on the hospitality
industry, the importance of customer interaction, and the firm belief
in his role as being someone who should be creating a positive
experience for everybody who walks into his bar. The experience of
watching an artist at work, in his element, tasting the art itself and
listening to somebody who loves and knows the industry so well tell us
about his experiences was such an entertaining way to spend an hour.
After a few cocktails, we called it a day and headed home with very
happy, full tummies. Our tour gave us a satisfying yet only very small
glimpse of the many food and beverage related businesses associated
with the City Precinct. We walked (rolled) away with a better idea of the
importance of having a networking committee embracing, overseeing
and helping to guide the community culture of this bustling part of
the city.
We look forward to seeing what they have in store over the coming
months.
CITY PRECINCTwww.cityprecinct.com.au
TWITTER: CityPrecinct
FACEBOOK: CityPrecinct
INSTAGRAM: cityprecinct
La Vita Buona is a beautiful venue, featuring an elegant décor of blonde wood and exposed brick walls. Not for the last time that day, we felt as though we had found a little slice of Europe in the heart of the Melbourne CBD.
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WORDS BY MEGAN OSBORNE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEGAN OSBORNE AND THE ROYAL MAIL
ROYAL MAIL
The Grampians in Victoria are abundant in gourmet produce and
vibrant vineyards. With both the Pyrenees and Grampian wine regions,
there is so much to see, experience and taste, that the three-hour drive
from Melbourne is definitely worth it. Indeed, it’s such a wine and food
destination, the recent Grape Escape wine festival was held in Halls Gap.
But when someone mentions ‘The Grampians’ in the same sentence as
‘food’, there is one inevitable conclusion a foodie’s mind jumps to: The
Royal Mail Hotel.
Robin Wickens—head chef at the Royal Mail—recently made the trip back
to the inner city (pressure), and cooked up a grand gastronomic dinner at
iconic Melbourne metro restaurant, Eureka 89. We took the chance to talk
to him about flavour, farming and fresh produce.
Wickens started working at the Royal Mail in 2013, after an impressive
career cooking in London and Australia. Originally hesitant to step back
into the kitchen, Wickens changed his mind upon seeing the resources
available at the Dunkeld destination. Keen to put his own stamp on the
kitchen-garden concept, Wickens sought to instil a philosophy of a truly
honest kitchen garden. ‘Kitchen gardens are a very trendy thing right now,
and a lot of PR spin goes into them sometimes’, says Wickens. ‘I wanted
to be able to say we do actually get 85 - 90% of the produce from our
garden.’
The garden has grown considerably in the last three years, now taking
up just under a hectare, complete with geese that act as the organically-
friendly pest control, and with some newly implemented snail farms and
mushroom cultivation—not to mention livestock, too. Even given it’s epic
size, the menu still comes second to what’s happening in the garden, and
ends up being reliant on the success of produce. ‘It’s very dictated by what
the garden does, rather than what we want to cook’, says Wickens. ‘If we
can’t grow it, we won’t use it, so there’ll never be mangoes, or tropical
fruits’. While this seasonal cooking approach can at times be limited, it
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also depends strongly on a chefs ability to be imaginative, he continues;
‘Coming into winter when there’s not that much around, you have to be
pretty creative, lots of stinging nettles,’ Wickens laughs.
The other downfall to a seasonal kitchen is the regularity—or lack thereof—
of ingredients the Royal Mail are reliant on using for each season. Wickens
loves to cook ‘whatever’s new’. He says, ‘We’ve got so many quinces at the
moment—which is great—but I have a very low attention span I think, so in
another week I’ll be bored with quinces.’ It’s not just the poor quinces that
get a bad rap, Wickens jokes, telling us; ‘We hang out for the first tomatoes
of the season, and then by now we just can’t look at another tomato.’
The Royal Mail menu changes weekly, sometimes even more frequently,
relying on a truly flexible and inventive cooking style. The term ‘seasonal’ is
thrown around a lot in relation to cooking these days, but Wickens believes
his team take it to the next level. Their kitchen-garden ethos renders them
unable to shop around for what they want at farmers markets, but to have
to wait until produce is ready to be harvested. ‘At the start of spring you
see all the Instagram shots of people using asparagus and broad beans, and
we don’t have any! We’re just sitting, waiting for it, going “come on, come
on!” So we are whatever the next stage from seasonal is,’ says Wickens.
There are however loads of benefits that come with growing your own
food, such as access to ingredients that many chefs pay a premium for,
says Wickens: ‘We have things like zucchini flowers which in a normal
kitchen are quite expensive, but we have so many that we’re making soups
and sauces, and you can get quite extravagant with things like that.’ Using
a zucchini flower to create soup seems extreme, but it’s these leaps of
creativity that lead to mind blowing dishes, such as the chestnut ice-cream
we were able to taste at the Eureka 89 dinner. This smoothly rich and nutty
dessert was created using chestnut leaves—believe it or not—resulting in
a memorably unique flavour. Wickens mentions another popular dish—
also ice cream—that has been ‘a real hit of late’, the eggplant ice cream
sandwich appetiser (so visit when you know it’s eggplant season!).
The menu served up at Eureka 89 was packed full of intriguing tastes,
from a rich (as in ‘I’m a billionaire that owns ten Maseratis, not just one’
rich) pork jowl served with acorn puree, fig compote and beans, matched
with a 2014 Mount Macleod Pinot Noir from Victoria, to a tender and soft
lamb with nutty and unique sunchoke and sunflower seeds, paired with a
2013 Masssolino, Langhe Nebbiolo from Piedmont in Italy. The standout
was absolutely the aforementioned chestnut ice cream, served with blood
orange and chestnut puree, and matched with a decadent 2012 Disznoko
‘late harvest’ Tokaj from Hungary.
The metropolitain backdrop was a stark contrast to the regional produce
on our plates, but it worked well, as Wickens states, to celebrate the
juxtaposition: ‘The Eureka tower is an iconic destination in Melbourne, and
the Royal Mail Hotel is an iconic destination in regional Victoria, so it’s great
that we have an opportunity to bring two exciting landmarks together in
such an innovative way.’
As the Eureka Tower in Melbourne is a tourist hot-spot, The Royal Mail
Hotel is in itself a destination. There are some pretty great things about
The Grampians, Wickens tell us: ‘I think The Grampians is a pretty amazing
part of Australia, and especially Victoria—it’s not everyone’s first idea of a
place to go. They all go to the Great Ocean Road or they go to the snow,
it’s almost like this forgotten area that people don’t even know exists. It’s
really such an iconic place, amazing scenery, and you can have a really
good meal too.’ The offering at the Royal Mail is set to get a whole lot
more exciting in the near future—we didn’t realise that was possible!—with
a plan of becoming completely self-sustaining, a collaboration with Yarra
Valley Winery, and the workings of being able to harvest honey, truffles and
pork soon, too.
While we jumped at the opportunity to skip out on the three hour drive,
but still enjoy the sensational offerings of an amazing kitchen—and its
garden—it’s safe to say that team GRAM would not hesitate to jump in
the car next time, and make the well-worth-it trip along to Dunkeld, in
ravishing regional Victoria.
ROYAL MAIL HOTEL
98 Parker Street, Dunkeld
+61 3 5577 2241
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HOWARD PLACE
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BENDIGORAILWAY STATION
13 minutes walk
6 minutes walk
ANDREW’S BURGERS GIDDIUP ANCHORAGEJBS HOSPITALITY GROUPINNOCENT BYSTANDER
“My restaurant has used the services of Chef’s
Hat for approximately 3 years. Initially for
major kitchen equipment during a renovation,
extending to various crockery, glassware,
cutlery and utensils. During this time, we have
developed a dependable relationship with Chef’s
Hat.. Their range, quality, service and support
is excellent and competitively priced. I highly
recommend Chef’s Hat for a restaurant/cafe’s
needs.”
Andrew Daniell – Owner
ANCHORAGE
“We have been working with Chef’s Hat for
over 6 years now across all 11 of our hospitality
venues and we are absolutely delighted with the
service. They take the time to work on our needs,
circumstances & preferences for each individual
site. They offer great turnaround times, easy
ordering systems and smooth account operation.
We highly recommend Chef’s Hat for your
hospitality needs.”
Karen Owen - Operations Manager
JBS HOSPITALITY GROUP
We use Chef’s Hat as our main supplier for
everything from glassware through to pastry
cutters. They are an amazing source of nearly
every item you could need to run your hospitality
business. They are extremely helpful on the
phone and have a fantastic team of staff that are
always on hand to help us with whatever we need.
I regularly use their website which is always up
to date and is a fantastic point of reference to see
visually what you would like to order. We would
highly recommend any new or old business to
seek these guys out!
Carron Gordon - Hospitality Administrator
INNOCENT BYSTANDER VIGNERONS &
WINEMAKERS
“Chef’s Hat has everything I need under one roof
and at the best prices. It’s a great feeling to know
that when you walk into Chef’s Hat, you will get the
level of care for your business that we put into our
family business. “
Greg Pappas
ANDREW’S BURGERS, ALBERT PARK
What do we love about Chefs Hat?
A fantastic product range and great service. To
us, Chefs Hat just feel like an extension of our
team at Giddiup. Oh... And did we mention that
they’re at our doorstep?!
Angie & Kirbie – Owners
GIDDIUP
ANADA, BOMBA GREEN PARK BISHOP SESSAFANCY HANKSASCOT FOOD STORE
“The restaurant game is populated with big-
talkers but precious few who can do what they
promise. Chef’s Hat has been, from the beginning,
a restaurateur’s best friend. Accessible, dynamic
and dripping with ideas. Restaurant openings are
nightmarish enough but with Chefs Hat on your
side the pain is considerably less. I wouldn’t dream
of doing business without them.”
Erez Gordon – Restaurant Owner, Consultant
& Front of House Specialist
BISHOP SESSA
“I’ve been ordering kitchen supplies from
Chef’s Hat for eight years now. Across my three
Melbourne restaurants (Añada, Bomba and
Green Park) we order everything from sponges to
paella pans, they always arrive in top nick and on
time. I recommend Chefs Hat to home cooks and
restaurant cooks alike, you’ll get the best service
no matter how big your kitchen.”
Jesse Gerner - Owner and Chef
ANADA, BOMBA AND
GREEN PARK DINING.
“Chef’s Hat always has what we need and if it’s
something they don’t usually stock they go out of
their way to source it for us or point us in the right
direction. They’re always available to answer any
queries I might have and when placing my order
I know it will turn up on time and correct, every
time.”
Daragh Khan, Kent Bell, Mike Patrick, Myles Munro - Owners
FANCY HANKS
“When I’m looking for innovative products, new
concepts and quality, with knowledgeable service
that always makes you feel like a part of a team,
Chef’s Hat always has what I’m after.”
David Stewart - Owner and Chef
ASCOT FOOD STORE
20
GRAM FEATURE
THINGS WE LOVE
SO:ME Space is a unique retail concept in the heart of
the South Melbourne Market dedicated to great design,
fashion, homewares and creativity.
The permanent stalls in the space include the home of
Rollie shoes – Lost in Seasons; TheSuperCool showcasing
the latest trends in home and giftware; Stone, Glint and
Bone with their own eclectic range of jewellery; Bakerlite
specialising in Papillionaire bicycles and accessories; and
Mr Simple and Hew both with a great range of clothing for
the lads.
There is also an ever changing pop-up space offering an opportunity for emerging
local designers to promote their products and spread their name. During May we’ll be
showcasing brands including Constance Roe, Banjara, Sarah van Oosterom, Lolicu, Millie
Archer, Jack and Jules, ShopWisely, Koenji Vintage and Cactus Country.
For more information visit somespace.com.au
SO:ME SPACE - A SUPER COOL SHOPPING EXPERIENCE
SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU
STOP. TURMERIC AND LISTEN... WHAT IS GOLDEN GRIND EXACTLY?
A delicious, all natural, super food so tasty to drink, you’ll be left wanting more.
It is the perfectly proportioned blend of 100% natural, unmodified turmeric,
cinnamon, ginger and black pepper.
Our special blend creates an amazing hot golden drink just by adding hot
water and your favourite milk or mylk at home, or easily transformed in the
perfect café golden latte.
The overwhelming health properties of these ingredients include, although
are not limited to:
• Highly anti-inflammatory • Strong anti-oxidant • Great for gut health
• Caffeine, sugar, gluten, nut and dairy free drink alternative
Having had enormous success selling golden lattes at their formally owned
café, Evolve Fair Food Store, Golden Grind is the answer to the do-it-yourself
mixing process.
The team behind Golden Grind have a
blended abundance of experience in
hospitality and FMCG whilst together
include a nutritionist, a sportsman and
a model. Turmeric and golden lattes
certainly fall into the “superfoods”
category and their market presences is
definitely here to stay.
We hope you get the chance to enjoy
our product and allow your insides to
enjoy the instant benefits.
Enjoy. Be Bliss. Be present. Be Golden
#iamgold
Golden Grind is available to purchase online, WWW.GOLDENGRIND.COM.AU
LIBERTY KOMBUCHA
Created by Melbourne cafe-industry husband and
wife duo James McKay and Jacqui Alexander, Liberty
Kombucha is brewed and bottled by hand in small-
batches. An ancient elixir that has been enjoyed
for centuries, Liberty Kombucha uses all organic
ingredients and is full of healthy, living bacteria
known as probiotics.
Kombucha is a fermented tea, a super drink that
supports the nervous system and aids in the
digestive process. Kombucha is made by brewing a
large amount of tea and then, with the addition of
mother culture – also known as a SCOBY (symbiotic
culture of bacteria and yeast) – it becomes alive. This
mother culture activates the drink, propelling it into
a living and healing beverage. After a fermentation
period of roughly three weeks, the flavour of the
drink is crafted by adding fruits, roots and spices to
the mix.
Find Liberty Kombucha at cafes throughout
Melbourne including Kettle Black, Barry Coffee and
Food and Sir Charles.
LIBERTYKOMBUCHA.COM
21www.chefshat.com.au
GRAM FEATURE
THINGS WE LOVE
MOUNT ZERO ON SALE - THE GRAM STORE
Mount Zero Olives is a family owned olive grove three hours west of Melbourne
on the northern edge of the Grampians National Park in Victoria, Australia.
Commitment to flavour, sustainable farming, ethical harvest and a passion for
quality produce defines Mount Zero Olives and all that we grow and gather.
Planted in the 1940’s, The Mount Zero Olive Grove is one of oldest olive groves
in Australia.
1. BIODYNAMIC FRENCH STYLE FINE GREEN LENTILS 500gm
As the name suggests, these lentils are a variety originating from Puy in France.
However these lentils grow exceptionally well in the soils of the Wimmera,
and are a favourite amongst our restaurant customers. Renowned for their
deep nutty flavour and for holding their shape when cooked, these lentils are
as perfect for summer salads as they are in winter soups and braised dishes. A
great companion to feta, chevre, mint, peas, tomatoes and game. These lentils
do not need to be soaked and take about 20 minutes to cook.
MAY ONLY: $6.35 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25
2. DRESSING FAVOURITES (OEVOO, RED-WINE VINEGAR, L-P EVOO)
Gold Medal favourites, one and all! This is a medley for all occasions featuring
100ml Lemon-pressed Extra Virgin Olive Oil, 100ml Organic Extra Virgin Olive
Oil, and 100ml Matured Red Wine Vinegar.
MAY ONLY: $12.70 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25
3. BIO-DYNAMIC OLIVE LEAF TEA
Made from the leaves of the manzanilla olive trees which have the highest
therapeutic antioxidant qualities. The leaves are steamed, rubbed, rolled
and dried with care in a traditional Japanese green tea processing plant in
Victoria, maintaining excellent colour and nutritional value.
MAY ONLY: $10.10 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25
4. RED WINE VINEGAR
Aged in oak barrels, Mount Zero Red Wine Vinegar, has a deep berry/plum
flavour taken from its main ingredient, wine, which is made from Cabernet
Sauvignon grapes.
MAY ONLY: $10.90 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25
1 2
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23
WORDS BY AMBER DE LUCA-TAO
MATCHA MYLKBAR
Matcha Mylkbar is the newest and freshest vegan café to hit the Melbourne
food scene. The café itself is situated in the heart of St Kilda, right on
the corner that marks the intersection between Acland Street and The
Esplanade.
These days there are dozens of eateries with menus that once upon a time
may have been considered ‘a little left of field’. If you consider yourself a
frequent and educated Melbourne brunch-goer, you would probably agree
that mushroom bacon is no longer a surprise to find in the additional items
section of the menu.
The Matcha Mylkbar is completely plant-based, so yes, you can add
mushroom bacon to your toast. But one Melbourne breakfast regular you
won’t find on the menu is caffeine. Turmeric lattes, beetroot lattes, cacao
lattes, mushroom lattes. But no café lattes.
Co-owner Mark Fillipelli says that the team were confident in their menu
from the beginning.
So this is not going to be a stock standard write-up about how satisfied
I am with my coffee and if my amount of smashed avo was acceptable.
Because no disrespect to every Melbourne brunch review ever written in
history, it would be to an extent, an extremely superficial way to discuss
Matcha Mylkbar.
With all the plant-based eateries around Melbourne at the moment, what
makes Matcha Mylkbar stand out from the rest? You’re probably thinking,
well that’s obvious. There’s matcha in everything. Well, think again.
To be more accurate, only one third of the menu’s items contain matcha.
Matcha pancakes, matcha smoothie bowls and matcha burger buns that
are as green as a luscious patch of freshly mown grass in spring. This is
definitely an aspect that makes Matcha Mylkbar unique. But this is not
their only drawcard.
The team behind Matcha Mylkbar are all non-vegans. So believe me when
I say that they have achieved their goal to create meals that people won’t
realise are completely vegan.
And by vegan I not only mean plant-based, but food with a purpose. A
purpose to address the unethical practices of caged and confined mass
production that currently exists. (Now do you see why rating their non-
caffeine lattes is a totally shallow angle to this piece. Although it must be
said, my cacao latte was extremely smooth, silky and a perfect balance of
sweet and bitter. Would recommend.)
So as a result, they have taken proactive measures to address the
aforementioned issue. Cue vegan eggs™.
Matcha Mylkbar’s vegan eggs™ are an original recipe. They look like
traditional eggs, have a similar texture to that of traditional eggs and even
come complete with the same yolk experience. We’re talking the same
amount of pleasure of slicing into the little bundle of joy to be greeted with
the exact runniness and thick consistency of a perfectly cooked poachie.
*Melbourne rejoices*
Mark says, “It’s a little sweeter in taste than a traditional egg, but more
compassionate.”
There are three simple whole-food staples that are needed to create the
vegan egg: coconut mylk, sweet potato and linseed, the ingredient that is
responsible for giving it the same protein content as a traditional egg. The
process however, is kept under tight lock and key.
If there’s one thing for sure, it’s that Matcha Mylkbar is a serious game
changer and strong forerunner in the future of modern brunch. It has set
a new standard for the level of innovation and sustainability that can be
incorporated into a both a healthy and deliciously satisfying meal.
This is definitely a brunch hotspot you want to put on your to-eat-at list.
But don’t get too ahead of yourself because you’re going to have to get
in line.
MATCHA MYLKBAR
72A Acland Street, St Kilda
matchamylkbar.com
INSTAGRAM: matcha_mylkbar
24
25
WORDS BY LAUREN BRUCE
INTERVIEW: BRYAN PETROFFBIG GAY ICE CREAM
Before Messina, before Pidapipo, and before all the other boundary-pushing
ice cream products were being pumped out around the world at the
alarming rate they are now, there existed in the States a little food truck
with a big personality: the Big Gay Ice Cream truck.
Only a few years after Twitter and Facebook were launched, BGIC co-
founders Bryan Petroff and Doug Quint took advantage of the social media
platforms to launch a brand of ice cream desserts that were decidedly more
adult than could have previously been purchased from a Mr Whippy-style
van.
Since the truck graced New York streets for the first time in 2009, Petroff
and Quint have launched three stores, written a recipe book and become
firm friends with Anthony Bourdain, the world’s most reputable foul-
mouthed food writer.
We spoke to Petroff in Melbourne during the Melbourne Food and Wine
Festival to talk all things sophisticated soft serve, accidentally political
business names and why Big Gay Ice Cream loves coming to Australia.
Bryan you were working in Human Resources and Doug was a classical
bassoonist when you decided to start the Big Gay Ice Cream truck. What
made you opt for such a drastic career change?
The truck was really just happenstance. In 2009, a friend of Doug’s – they
went to Julliard together – had been featured in the New York Times
regarding her ice cream truck, and it got recognition and coverage and that
kind of intrigued people.
She knew Doug was looking for something to do over the summer, so she
was like, “Do you want to do this?” And he said, “Sure”. I came on board
because it was an opportunity to create a little mobile restaurant.
[Doug’s friend] was just [operating it as] a Mr Whippy truck, so I said, “Let’s
have a little fun with the menu.” The truck owner let us do that and let us
brand it. We did that for three summers as a seasonal truck, and it wasn’t
until we opened our first shop in 2011 that we had to make a big decision,
you know: are we ice cream people or is this just a summer project? Now
that we were actually [starting] a shop that would be open full-time, all year
round, we had to start making decisions. So I quit my job and Doug pulled
out of his doctorate program [at Julliard].
You made quite a, some would say, political statement with the brand
name, Big Gay Ice Cream. Was this deliberate?
It was actually the opposite of a political statement. We’re not political
people. [But] as much as we didn’t want to be political, we also didn’t want
to be a gimmick, because we wanted people to realise we were actually
paying attention to the quality of what we were doing and presenting.
So the name was a lark. Doug made a comment on Facebook that was
something to the affect of, “Hey, I’m going to have a big gay ice cream
truck this summer. So I’m going to start a blog if you guys want to follow
the adventures and are interested.” And then we were like, “Well, that’s our
name.”
So no motivation [other than] we liked the ambiguity of it, we like the play
on “happy” or “gay”, and once we had the name we gave it to our friend who
is an art director who came up with the logo for it.
We actually did a presentation in Toronto two years ago where the theme of
the convention was ‘Food As A Social Change’ and we talked about being
accidentally political. What we realise is that people look at us however they
want to look at us. We try to remain apolitical, [so] if they see us as weird
kooky people who are just having fun, then that’s who we are. If they think
we’re the antichrist trying to indoctrinate children through ice cream…
Jeez! Have you come across that?!
Oh yeah.
And what do you do with that stuff? Do you simply ignore it and move on?
You have to. It’s just so ridiculous… and in my mind, they’re projecting their
own sense of fear and how they look at the world [onto us]. It’s like, my god,
if you think we’re going after children, then you are way beyond what I or
ice cream can do for you.
26
I remember when you guys started, I was back in Melbourne following the
ice cream truck’s whereabouts on twitter going, nobody else is doing this
“sophisticated soft serve” stuff. How did you come up with that concept?
It was just because it was there. That was the truck that we had, and it was
like, “Well, let’s not do the same old thing. Let’s have fun with it.” Our feeling
was Mr Whippy hadn’t changed their menu in decades, and there’s so much
more you could do with it. While we didn’t cook ourselves, we loved going
out to eat, and we loved following chefs and pastry chefs, and had travelled
internationally and so we tried to bring in all of those concepts.
We thought of it like, if the truck was inside a restaurant, what would it
be doing? And so bringing in olive oil and sea salt and ginger and curry
and wasabi and all these flavours Mr Whippy never approached, it seemed
very natural. We even would joke, like, “Why, why hasn’t anybody done this
before? Why did it take until the 2000s before somebody thought, hey, this
can be more than just cherry dip?”
So did you anticipate then that that would be a success? I remember the
photos you posted on twitter with lines for days outside the truck.
We didn’t anticipate anything! It was so crazy. We’ve been very gob-
smacked at times about it (in a good way) and we like having fun and all
these things keep it fun for us. Like coming [to Australia for the Melbourne
Food and Wine Festival], everything is a new adventure and a new learning
experience.
You’ve got three shops now; two in New York and one in Philadelphia. So
what have been the main differences between running an ice cream truck
and operating stores?
Um, It’s a lot more expensive. We did everything as cheaply as we really
could [with the truck] – we didn’t actually own it so we rented it on a daily
basis. Whereas every shop we opened cost about four times as much as the
previous one. And there are more expectations now – we have 50 employees
and they count on us and the decisions that we make to remain employed
and to remain in great work environments. So it’s a little less flexible.
We read our audiences much more closely now than we used to, and our
production is much greater than it used to be. As opposed to a couple of
zip lock bags of stuff on the truck, now it’s 25 gallons of whatever ingredient
and that costs money and you don’t wanna waste anything.
And I think we’ve realised what we do and don’t wanna do, the costs
involved, and the importance of kind of straddling that line and keeping
it fun but professional, listening to the audience while staying true to our
roots where we started. BGIC wouldn’t have existed and it wouldn’t be what
it is without the two of us. I think I kind of reign in Doug and Doug pulls
weirdness out of me, so there’s a nice push-pull going on there.
It definitely makes you realise that starting a business by yourself is ungodly
difficult and knowing that you can rely on somebody else who has the exact
same values and mindset is a really great thing because I don’t know how
people could do this stuff on their own.
27
You’ve come to Melbourne a couple of times now - what keeps you coming
back?
Well you keep inviting us pretty much [laughs]. We like working with friends,
basically. We like our extended “Big Gay Family” – you know, [people and
chefs that] we’ve met on this journey, and people that get us and stick
around and really love what we do. It’s fun to be in a new sphere of influence.
There’s a lot of collaboration that goes on these days and it’s just great to
get your presence out there and to meet new people.
Yeah and I think for us it’s nice because you operate in a silo a lot, and you
don’t know what’s going on with your friends, and you don’t know what
s going on with the restaurant next door to you, because you’re just so
focused on your own work. So to be able to catch up with your friends and
to do it by working together on something, I think that’s a lot of fun.
So what’s your favourite classic Big Gay Ice Cream flavour?
My favourite ice cream [dessert] in general is hot fudge sundaes with
peanuts and whipped cream. I like our hot fudge a lot so just a very classic
[sundae]. I think both Doug and I are classics at heart; we both grew up with
a very traditional ice cream experience.
If I want something palate cleansing and clean, lemon sorbet would be the
opposite end of the spectrum. Either I need a refreshing fruity clean taste, or
if I just need to wallow in my tears than I’ll go the hot fudge route [laughs].
Did you enjoy working with Messina in Melbourne?
We were introduced to them through Good Food Month last time we were
here, and since you can’t import dairy into the country and there wasn’t
really time and space [for us] to make stuff [for the event], they put us
together so collaboration could happen.
It’s just kindred spirits, you know. I I’ve found that the people I met here in
the pastry world are much like us. They understand how fun pastries and
ice cream can be and how it’s okay to have fun. That was a big thing for us.
And when you’re working in a kitchen long hours, you’ve gotta be able to
have fun when you’re working so hard.
Exactly. And the last thing you should be smug about is ice cream. This is a
childhood comfort food. So when we came across and met people here like
the owners of Messina, and Katherine Sabbath who we met last time and
Andy Bowdy [pastry chef, Andy Bowdy Pastry and formerly Hartsyard]…
they’re great technically, you know, they know their shit, but they love having
fun with it too.
Ice cream should be fun. It’s the most fun food there is. And this is our idea
of fun and it’s Messina’s idea of fun and it’s Pierre’s [Ice Cream Company’s]
idea of fun. That’s why I think we like coming back here and I think we get a
great reception when we’re here. Because Australians like having fun.
BIG GAY ICE CREAM
biggayicecream.com
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29
Any hipster worth his hops knows that Melbourne is all about craft beer.
The last few years have seen a move away from the stock standard on-taps
and bottled imports to the more artisan ales, brewed and bottled just a
few ‘burbs over. One such Victorian craft brewery, Wolf of the Willows, has
earned a stellar reputation for its hand crafted, modern ales, each batch
produced from start to finish by Scotty and Renae McKinnon.
The husband and wife duo launched Wolf of the Willows in November
2014. Starting with an XPA – Extra Pale Ale, Scotty and Renae gypsy-
brewed for their first year, borrowing other people’s equipment to develop
their range, before teaming up with Bad Shepherd Brewing Co and setting
their roots in a Cheltenham. A fitting move for the couple, who have called
Bayside home for the last 15 years.
Scotty’s love of brewing started young, helping his dad brew homemade
ginger beer on his family’s property in rural Victoria. Years later, time
spent as a ski bum in Colorado gave Scotty an introduction to the world
of American craft brewing. This, he says, was followed by “many years of
perfecting beer recipes, growing hops on the family farm and of course,
plenty of ‘market research’”.
A sales and marketing gun, Renae made her start working late night
hospitality shifts (at a number of reputable restaurants and bars in
Melbourne and London, no less) before moving into events management
and wine marketing for a highly-regarded distribution company. With a
brain for business and a love of all things craft beer, launching Wolf of the
Willows was just “a natural progression” for Renae.
As for the inspiration behind the name, they say Scotty’s nerdy love for
beer history is to blame. “We loved the story about Pliny the Elder, a Roman
military man, naturalist and botanist, who was known to have named the
hop bine ‘Lupus Salictarius’...Latin for Wolf of the Willows.” The hop bine,
as the story goes, looked as if were trying to strangle and take down the
willow trees, much like a wolf would take down its prey.
This appreciation for history can be seen throughout the Wolf of the
Willows brewing process; Scotty and Renae use traditional craft brewing
techniques and “no bullshit rubbish additives and chemicals”, foregoing
the pasteurization process and giving the brews plenty of ferment and
conditioning time. The result? Exceptional crafts beers that, while staying
true to style, can often stray from the norm.
“Our ISA – India Saison is one that tends to push the boundaries,” Renae
explains. “While a standard Saison style does not have hops included, but
since our name is all about hops, why not put some in?” And why not,
indeed. Nelson hops gives the beer a wine-like, Sauvignon Blanc character,
with spicy berry nut and a refreshing hit of mango, passionfruit and tropical
fruits. Best paired with Asian and seafood style dishes, we’re told.
Their third brew, the JSP – Johnny Smoke Porter, is a different take on
the robust classic. Influenced by Scotty’s love of “nerdy beer history”, the
JSP – Johnny Smoke Porter is a historical throwback to what they believe
a traditional London Porter would have tasted like, back in the times when
open fire was used to malt barley. The end result is a firm malt profile that
is smoky yet balanced by sweetness on the palate. A go-to winter warmer.
Now settled in the their Cheltenham brewery, Scotty and Renae have had
time to work on more brews, recently releasing the final piece of their core
range puzzle, the IPA – India Pale Ale they call ‘Homage’, along with some
limited release beers.
So, what’s next for the brewing duo? Lots, it would appear. As part of Good
Beer Week, Wolf of the Willows have teamed up with famed Melbourne
chef Daniel Wilson for ‘Cooking with Craft Beer Master Class’. Held at
South Melbourne’s Urban Kitchen on May 17, guests will be taught how to
cook favourite dishes, all prepared with craft beer, before they cook and
consume their own three course fine dining creations. And, just to sweeten
the deal, the full range of Wolf of the Willows beers is included as part of
the experience, including rare and limited releases. Now we’ll cheers to
that.
WOLF OF THE WILLOWS
386 Reserve Road, Cheltenham
wolfofthewillows.com.au
facebook.com/wolfofthewillows | twitter.com/wolfofthewillow
instagram.com/wolfofthewillows
Search for ‘Wolf of the Willows’ on goodbeerweek.com.au for tickets to
the Cooking with Craft Beer Master Class
WORDS BY ELLA PLEASANT PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN SCHMIDEG
BAYSIDE BREWERYWOLF OF THE WILLOWS
30
Take a trip to the dark side… and leave your car keys
behind
May the Fourth is both a great day for beer-loving Star
Wars nerds and the worst day for unfortunate souls
hoping to hide their speech impediment.
Some seriously cool beers have appeared over the last
few years, the most well-known being Holgate’s Millenium
Falcon Triple IPA, and this year the guys from the Jedi
Temple in Brunswick East have paid homage to everything
alluring about the dark side.
Head Brewer, Glenn Harrison is a devout dark beer
worshipper, yet it’s his passion for absolute balance in the
Force that shines through with this particular beer. I can’t
help but think this is his New World Order American Stout
after a solid three week training session on Dagobah.
I had a chat with Temple’s intergalactic beer smuggler,
Simon Frake about their Bold New World. “We just had
to make a beer for Star Wars Day. The ‘Imperial’ just
represents the Stormtroopers who are misunderstood
dudes in white plastic with a seriously bad boss, that
would fall down during battles without any apparent
injuries. May the Fourth is just transcendentally cool. ”
What Simon was trying to say is Bold New World presents
a jet black appearance with a sexy coffee-coloured head,
a moderate level of carbonation and roasted, chocolate
flavour that compliments the dried fruit aroma and 10%
alcohol beautifully.
Don’t restrict this beer to a beer glass however. Frake
continues, “it is a serious beer, but can be treated as a bit
of fun too. Bold New World poured over vanilla ice cream
is like the Eton Mess equivalent in all the finest Death Star
venues. Coming in to the Victorian Autumn season, there’s
nothing better than an earthy, warming monster stout.”
Brewing beer this good isn’t like dusting crops boy, this
beer is seriously Empire Strikes Back good. As Yoda
would say, “When 10% alcohol you reach, taste as good it
will not, hmm?!”
Bold New World is a strictly limited release, out on May 4
at selected venues around Victoria. Be quick, it will go fast!
ABV: 10%
STYLE: Imperial Stout
SERVING TEMP: 6-8 degrees
FOOD PAIRING: Womp Rat
ORIGIN: 122 Weston St, East Brunswick
REVIEWS
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON
TEMPLE BOLD NEW WORLD IMPERIAL STOUT
When leaving a sour taste is a good thing!
Holgate have been around since 1999 and in some ways
have been a victim of their own sure and steady approach.
Brewing outstanding ales over a long period of time in a
rapidly expanding industry with new breweries opening
around Australia every week has seen the Holgate team
get drowned out from time to time thanks to deafening
white noise in a crowded market.
But it’s with beers like their latest limited release, a
Flanders style Wild Red Ale, that reminds everyone just
how innovative and on-trend Holgate Brewhouse can be,
capacity allowing of course.
The Holgate brew team have been relentless in letting
owner Paul know of their desire to produce a complex
beer such as a Flanders Sour, a style of beer native to the
Flanders in Belgium where lactic acid is used along with an
extended aging period in oak barrels, red malt for colour
and blended with one or more younger versions of itself.
In some respects, the Wild Red Ale is the crowning glory
derived from many recent releases such as the 2014
Midnight Cowboy Project (Sour Cherry Porter), the Little
Red Riding Wood mixed ferment and the early 2015 release
of the kettle-soured Hop Tart, a semi-sour pale ale.
Wine lovers take note - this beer is for those that adore and
admire complexity and a refreshing finish. Both a sipping,
savouring beer and a food beer. Available from selected
stockists around Victoria. Hurry, only 1,200 bottles available!
It gets better. Holgate’s new Keepers Guild means you can
become a member and receive super exclusive small batch
brews like this one delivered straight to your door. Just get
on to the website and punch in your details! Cheers!
ABV: 6%
STYLE: Flanders Style Sour Ale
SERVING TEMP: 6 degrees
ORIGIN: Woodend, Victoria
PRICE (RRP): $20 (750ml)
BUY IT HERE: www.holgatebrewhouse.com.au
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGONHOLGATE WILD RED ALE
B E N D I G Oon the hop
20 AUGUST28 BREWERIES, 56 BEERS, NO WINE, NO CIDER
tickets on sale from 1 june
www.bendigobeer.com
Showcasing the best of Australia’s independent breweries
When discussing coffee varieties you often hear the
words Arabica and Robusta mentioned. Arabica
beans are known for a sweeter, smoother flavour
profile while Robusta is what gives you intensity and a
hefty hit of caffeine. Over recent years it has become
popular for blends to be 100% Arabica, with Robusta
seen to be harsher and often inferior. But what if there
was another variety, completely different, bringing
together the best of both worlds? Almost like a blend
in one bean.
Four years ago, four Aussie soldiers stationed in East
Timor as part of a peace keeping mission discovered
something wild and mysterious, a hybrid coffee in the
jungle planted over 200 years ago by the Portuguese
and left neglected under Indonesian rule. Over time
the plants combined creating this organic hybrid
which grows pesticide free in the mountain regions
around Timor-Leste. Without common diseases and
pests which normally affect the coffee, the beans
also don’t need to be chemically treated before
importation.
Known simply as Wild Timor Coffee, this is not a brew
for the faint hearted. It is dark and intense, earthy and
woody, yet still bright. Single origin maybe, but rich
and multi layered with a boldness that befits a coffee
from this tiny nation who have fought fiercely for their
independence. Employing ethical and sustainable
practices, the boys wanted to give back to the villages
and farmers to ensure they benefit from this beautiful
product and the growing success of the coffee in
Australia. Most notable is the Wild Water Project
which has recently resulted in the building of a water
tank in the village of Belumuhato in the area where the
coffee grows, which now means the inhabitants don’t
need to travel up to 10 kilometres each day for fresh
drinking water. Most often it is the women and children
who make the trip, preventing them from going to
school and their mothers from being able to grow and
irrigate the crops. There is also a high mortality rate
amongst children there who have limited access to
water, so these facilities will make a huge difference to
the lives of those who reside there.
One cup of each coffee sold results in one litre of clean
drinking water for those in need and while we may not
think about it when we order our daily caffeine hit, it is
clean water which is also required to make our coffee,
something we often take for granted. So if you want
to be a part of this social project, buy the beans online
or just go to one of these cafes and order an awesome
coffee and see if you’re as wild about it as I am.
REVIEWS
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
WILD TIMOR COFFEE CO.
Wild Timor Coffee - 282 Sydney Road, CoburgWild Timor Coffee - 251 Faraday Street, CarltonThe Espressionist - 100 Lorimer Street, DocklandsGioia Mia - 217-239 Montague Street, South MelbourneCaffe Strada - 197 Upper Heidelberg, Ivanhoe
HERE ARE A FEW CAFES WHERE YOU CAN ENJOY WILD TIMOR -
Cooked: Food for Friends is all about sharing; 100
dishes, all delicious, and many of which you can whip
up fast. Across eight chapters, the book presents
ideas for: backyard grill; impromptu dinners; brunch;
picnics; drinks parties; high tea; and the ultimate
Sunday roast spread. Packed full of recipes from over
40 of Australia’s favourite chefs and cooks, there is
sure to be something to suit everyone’s tastes.
The book includes everything you need to satisfy
your friends, from impressive dishes you can conjure
in minutes, such as Antonio Carluccio’s luscious
zabaglione with bitter chocolate sauce, to spectacular
feasts for the senses, like Paul Wilson’s sweetcorn
French toast with pancetta and avocado or Luke
Nguyen’s crisp silken tofu in lemongrass to home
comforts with a twist including Alain Ducasse’s roast
chicken, Mark Best’s stunning orange and polenta
cake, or Margaret Fulton’s canapé saviours, piroshki.
Whatever the occasion, inspiration for your next
gathering starts with Cooked: Food for Friends.
HARDIE GRANT BOOKS RRP $24.99
COOKED - FOOD FOR FRIENDS100 sensational recipes by more than 40 top cooks and chefs
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I was a big Kath & Kim fan back in the day. I always thought that
if they were able to get past their love of drinking Car-don-nay
(aka Chardonnay) then maybe their next favourite wine would be
one that had a similar ring to it, or at least one that rhymed with
Kim’s daughter’s name, Epponnee-Rae. Introducing Gamay (you
can picture Kath saying it too, can’t you?).
Back on track, Farr Rising is the reputable wine brand crafted
by winemaker Nick Farr in the Bannockburn area of Geelong.
You’ve got to be delicate with a grape like Gamay, so Nick uses
whole bunch fermentation to kick-start a brighter red fruit
aroma spectrum followed by maturation in old barrels. The result
is a wine with a definitive carbonic nose of wild strawberry,
peppercorn, pomegranate and a hint of kola nut. There is plenty
of juicy acidity to keep your lips smacking, complemented with
a savoury undertone of forest floor and delicate earthy tannins.
While it is often touted that Gamay is the perfect lunchtime wine,
I broke tradition and enjoyed it with a light roast dinner with just
as much pleasure.
STOCKIST: Direct from the Farr Winery website or ask at your
local wine store
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO
FARR RISING GAMAY 2015 Geelong, Victoria. RRP: $38
WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BARD/UP
COOKIE // CBD - BAR/D UP VIDEO FEATUREIn collaboration with Wolf of the Willows Brewing
You can’t live in Melbourne and not know about Cookie. And if you don’t then you do now.
There’s no going back once you’ve climbed the stairs to Level 1 in Curtin House and through
the door into this wonderland. A beer hall, eating house and disco, it’s a magical space that
does many things and does them well. The walls and shelves are covered with bottles of
beautiful alcohol and well-worn children’s books, many of them classics lit gently by flickering
candlelight giving this large venue a very cozy feel. It’s like being in the best library ever!
Sit in the restaurant and order amazing Thai food from the extensive menu, grab a few
quality craft brews from the equally huge beer list and be a part of the frenetic atmosphere
around you. If you’re lucky a table on one of the Juliet balconies may be available and you
can sit outside and get a bird’s eye view of the surrounding city. For a slightly more intimate
experience, pop around into the back bar and watch the experts craft their cocktails, with
Cookie being home to many award winning bartenders over years this place has been in
existence.
It’s an institution, a hive of activity, a place where the smells of tasty Asian food waft through
the air tantalising your senses and most importantly a bar that prides itself on quality
beverages and service. There’s not much more to say. This is Cookie.
HEAD TO BARDUP.COM.AU TO CHECK OUT THE VIDEO.
INSTAGRAM - @bardupmelb
FACEBOOK - facebook.com/bardupmelb
COOKIE
First Level, Curtin House, 252 Swanston Street
Melbourne
9663 7660
cookie.net.au
facebook.com/Cookie.Melb
instagram.com/cookiemelbourne
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OUT AND ABOUTUNION DINING / THREE RIVERS LUNCH
Last month Chef Nicky Riemer of Union Dining in Richmond together with Three Rivers Specialty Meats created a menus with matching wines that truly highlighted the beautiful lamb from this single estate farm north of Echuca. The animals graze on native Old Man Saltbush plants over the summer and autumn
months producing a tender and sweet meat which is just delicious. Key dishes included a saltbush lamb shank bastilla followed by a lamb shoulder braise with golden roasted beetroot, white bean ragu, salsa verde and saltbush, finishing with an amazing Earl Grey panna cotta with fresh fig and poached rhubarb for dessert.
POW KITCHEN LAUNCH St Kilda’s mightiest mezzanine, the Bandroom Balcony at Prince Of Wales, has bounced into Southern Asian sub- terrain. Give a disco ‘herro’ to POW Kitchen. This oriental overturn, which sees the plus-sized POW personality infused with Southern Asian soul, spells
Summer flings with Singapore Slings, sunset sessions with vinyl concessions, and club nights with flavour- full bites. Authentic flavours from broad-stroke Southern Asia. Curb- side prices. A passport- proud (aka. plenty) selection of beers on tap, cocktails and wine. Bandroom-boom entertainment…
PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG
PHOTOGRAPHY RICK LISTON PHOTOGRAPHY
THE DIARY13 - 22 May, 2016GOOD BEER WEEKMelborune
The sixth annual Good Beer Week will return to Australia’s craft beer capital for nine days of froth-filled celebrations. 270 events will run across more then 150 venues in Melbourne and Victoria. For the first time, there will be a Good Beer Week App to assist punters on their craft beer adventures. The App lets you view the program and purchase tickets as well as offering guided maps to venues. This year’s program is overflowing with live music events taking place across town: think Northcote Social Club, Cherry Bar, Old Bar, the Rochie, the Great Britain Hotel, the Catfish and more. Highlights include a tribute to The Boss with a Bruce Springsteen themed event. For a slightly more refined take on live music, look no further than the St. Stephen’s Anglican Church for a one-off opera event. You can bet your beer-filled bonnet that foodies will be well catered for with GBW fixtures such as Mega Dega – this year the event will be held at The Craft & Co and feature a new set of all-star chef and brewer teams. Other sought after destinations taking part in the Foodie stream include the renowned degustation at Vue De Monde, The Roving Marrow at The Astor and Brighton’s Half Moon. Beer and spirit pairing is another strong theme in this year’s program, with Gin being the newest beer pairing friend. There will be a gin and hops master-class and a gin, beer and food pairing dinner. Cocktail masters Eau-de-Vie are back this year creating a new selection of cocktails made with beer.
Rest assured this beer fest isn’t just dominated by beards: a number of events champion the women of the industry and empower women beer professionals to advance their careers in the beer industry through education. International brewers will also flock to Melbourne in May; there will be the chance to meet brew-master Steve Wagner from San Diego based Stone Brewing Co. Other international guests include Brew Dog from Scotland, Palm and Rodenbach breweries from Belgium, Coedo from Japan and Ducato from Italy. Locally, Balter Brewing will make a first time appearance at the festival; the new brewery is based on the Gold Coast and owned by surfers Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Bede Durbidge and Josh Kerr. Since the festivals inception, Good Beer Week’s central aim is to promote good beer and the community and culture that surround it. The festival is achieving this goal with an audience that continues to grow and become more diverse. For the second year, Beer DeLuxe at Federation Square will serve as the festival’s hub with a series of their own fantastic events. Good Beer Week 2016 is an independent and not-for-profit festival that overall celebrates and promotes the renaissance that craft beer is enjoying globally.
For the full program and ticket sales, go togoodbeerweek.com.au
May 28, 2016OYSTER FEAST FUNDRAISER FOR 5CENT The Neff Market Kitchen - Stall 90, Cecil Street, South Melbourne
Feast of Merit is throwing its doors open for a one-night only Oyster Feast! Join us and support YGAP’s 5cent campaign, giving children improved access to a quality education. Monday 9 May @ 7pm
Enjoy an all-you-can-eat Oyster Feast. $45 p.p
Bubbles on arrival.
5cent cocktail with all proceeds supporting 5cent campaign
Special guest appearance by Lua Lua
Limited tickets so get in quick to reserve your place! More info please contact [email protected]
May 28, 2016PORK, FLAME AND PINOTThe Deck at The Prince 2 Acland Street, St. Kilda6.30pm - late
Pulled, belly up, ribbed or classic crackling – however you like it, join us for an evening revelling all things flaming hog, live music and pinot.
Indulge in some of Victorian’s finest free-range pork from Pork + Pinot connoisseur William Downie, as the Deck transforms into a smoky, ruckus fiesta with handpicked pancetta that bellows, cracks and saps over a flaming asado. Caution: continuous smoke inhalation may increase salivation.
Four distinct Melbourne Pub Group kitchens will carefully select and carve their chosen meat to produce a finger lickin’ dish, complemented perfectly by their paired pinot producer.
It’s dish vs. dish, pinot vs. pinot in a dog pig eat dog pig world. The only winners on the night will be a deck full of happy porkers and pinot punters.
Asian sensation POW Kitchen teams up with Mac Forbes, whiles Tex-Mex Acland St Cantina joins forces with Barnaby Flanders form Garagiste. The decedent Circa kitchen collaborates with Garry Mills from Jamsheed, with the pièce de resistance of the night – our primiative pork spit, seasons to perfection and paired perfectly with William Downie’s own Pinot.
Drooling yet? You’ll be as happy as a pig in pinot if you snap up one of these tickets.
$55 | 4 dishes, one from each vendor with matched winemonthoftheprince.com.au
29 May 2016ITALIAN WINE + FOOD FESTIVAL - MELBOURNERoyal Exhibition Building, Carlton Gardens
Everything that’s good about eating and drinking in Italy comes together under one roof with the first ever Melbourne edition of the Italian Wine + Food Festival. Taste 200 of Italy’s finest wines (including Italian-centric Aussie wines), meet winemakers and importers, including Luca Currado from legendary Piedmont winery Vietti. Wine masterclasses are hosted by Max Allen, sommelier Rocco Esposito hosts Plumm Italian Wine Workshops, or take a Sommelier Tour with one of Melbourne’s finest.
Meet chefs Johnny di Francesco (400 Gradi), Rosa Mitchell (Rosa’s Canteen + Rosa’s Kitchen), Nino Zoccali (Sydney’s Pendolino), Paolo Masciopinto (Sarti), Carmine Costantini (Osteria La Passione), Luca Flammia + Francesco Rota (Trattoria Emilia) and David Dellai (Il Bacaro). Expect food from 400 Gradi, 38 Chairs, Caterina’s Cucina e Bar, La Bonta, Bar Idda and Saluministi. Stock up at the food market featuring Pidapipo Gelato, Floridia Cheese, Pasta Classica, Books for Cooks and sweets by Dolcetti.
www.italianwinefoodfestival.com.au
May 22, 2016STREET FEUDThe Deck at The Prince 2 Acland Street, St. Kilda | 12pm$55 - 6 dishes, one from each competiting vendor
Who serves Melbourne’s best street food? At this sticky finger food festival, Street Feud sees the public scoff and score Melbourne’s favourite sidewalk eats.MENU
8bit.Mini Double Dragon Burger
Acland St CantinaSpiced Lamb + Pumpkin Quesadilla
Gelato MessinaShhh... It’s a surprise
POW KitchenCha-ca Skewers
Rice Paper ScissorsMUU KROBB “Sticky Pork Belly”
Tokyo TinaKarage Chicken Bao
Who will take out this year’s trophy? You decide.
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