Gram ISSUE 61 // May 2016

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1 MELBOURNE ISSUE 61 FREE PLEASE TAKE ME HOME GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

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Transcript of Gram ISSUE 61 // May 2016

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MELBOURNE ISSUE 61 FREEPLEASE

TAKE ME HOME

GRAMMAGAZINE.COM.AU

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EATING OUT

ROYAL MAIL HOTELMeg Osborne

MATCHA MYLKBARAmber De Luca-Tao

BAYSIDE BREWERYWOLF OF THE WILLOWSElla Pleasant and Dean Schmideg

REGULARSFEATURE

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CONTRIBUTORS

NEWLY OPENED

AROUND THE TRAPS

THINGS WE LOVE

REVIEWS

OUT AND ABOUT

THE DIARY

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CONTENTS

CITY PRECINCT FOODIE TOURBEING FED AND WATERED BY

3000

Lauren Kenrick - Foodie Melbourne

INTERNATIONAL

Gram magazine is owned by Rothesay Media Pty Ltd and published by Jess Hourigan. The opinions expressed in this publication, including the opinions expressed by the authors of the individual online reviews and articles, and other pieces, are not necessarily the opinions of the publisher. The publisher has adopted an Editorial Policy which governs and dictates the manner in which online content from third parties is reproduced in GRAM. All photography in GRAM is copyright and may not be reproduced in whole or part without the prior consent of the publisher. Speed of access to online content is dependent on the individual service offered by your internet service or mobile telephone provider. The publisher takes no responsibility for failure to access any online content.

ON THE COVER: CARROTSThe carrot (Daucus carota subsp. sativus) is a root vegetable, usually orange in colour, though purple, black, red, white, and yellow varieties exist.It has a crisp texture when fresh. The most commonly eaten part of a carrot is a taproot, although the greens are sometimes eaten as well. It is a domesticated form of the wild carrot Daucus carota, native to Europe and southwestern Asia. The domestic carrot has been selectively bred for its greatly enlarged and more palatable, less woody-textured edible taproot.(Source: Wikipedia)

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Jess Hourigan

DEPUTY EDITOR

Lauren Bruce

DEPUTY EDITOR

Megan Osborne

COVER DESIGN

ELEVATOR CREATIVE [email protected] www.elevatorcreative.com.au

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES: [email protected]

EDITORIAL ENQUIRIES: [email protected]

DISTRIBUTION ENQUIRIES: [email protected]

GENERAL ENQUIRIES: [email protected]

www.grammagazine.com.au | www.thegramstore.com.au

BRYAN PETROFF

BIG GAY ICE CREAMLauren Bruce

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CONTRIBUTORS

DEAN SCHMIDEG

A professional photographer and copywriter with an interest in fashion and design, Dean is known as one of Melbourne’s coffee addicts and foodies, regularly seeking out new and interesting cafes and bars. He shares these and the things he prepares at home across social media. His posts celebrate the produce, the people he meets and places he goes to, telling a story with the aim of enticing the reader and bringing people together.

FACEBOOK: imagesdsINSTAGRAM: dsimagesTWITTER: imagesDSE: [email protected]

LAUREN BRUCE

Lauren started her writing career as a communications adviser before she realised she couldn’t ignore her passion for food and the arts any longer. She gave up the world of state politics to concentrate on freelance writing and styling. She has since contributed to Spook, Paper Sea and Junkee and is a regular contributor to GRAM Magazine.

laurendarcybruce.wordpress.comINSTAGRAM: brucemoosemedia

ON THE BANDWAGON

Trev has earnt a reputation in the Australian

craft beer industry as a passionate advocate

for local breweries and educating the

masses about the beer they are drinking.

He is the founder and Chair of Bendigo

Beer which runs many events including

the widely acclaimed Bendigo On The Hop

festival.

TWITTER: Onthe_bandwagon

INSTAGRAM: Onthe_bandwagon

ELLA PLEASANT

Digital marketer by day, fanatical foodie by night, the only thing Ella loves more than eating and drinking is talking about it online.

With a mission to hunt down the city’s best wining and dining establishments, she couldn’t be more chuffed (and stuffed) to share her foodie finds.

MEGAN OSBORNE

Megan Osborne is a freelance writer, but more importantly, a foodie. How can you not be living in a city like Melbourne? Every day holds an opportunity to find a new gem, and in between uploading photos of her cat on Instagram and generally making a mess in the kitchen, she’s on the lookout for the next tummy-satisfying diamond. Or goldmine—she’s not fussy.

meganosborne.com.auTWITTER: foodiewritings INSTAGRAM: foodiewritings

FOODIE MELBOURNE

I’m Lauren - a Melbourne born and bred food,

travel and social media addict, and founder of

the blog Foodie Melbourne.

I spend all my time thinking about my next

meal or my next holiday. I love all kinds of

food- from home cooking to food trucks to

fine dining, and feel so lucky to live in a city

that has it all!

foodiemelbourne.wordpress.com

INSTAGRAM: foodiemelbourne

AMBER DE LUCA-TAO

Hi! My name is Amber De Luca–Tao. I am

a second year Business and Journalism

student. I am half Italian and half Chinese. I

have a passion for lifestyle magazines and

an obsession with Melbourne breakfast

cafes. In my spare time I love to exercise,

take photos and update my blog.

ambershalfieworld.weebly.com

INSTAGRAM: ambershalfieworld

LA DONNA DEL VINO

La Donna del Vino is the pseudonym of this

Melbournian with a nose attuned to all things

vinous. A self-confessed Neb Head (someone

who really digs the Nebbiolo grape), she will

happily try anything once but has a penchant

for full-bodied whites, food-friendly reds and

a good digestive. In her spare time you’ll find

her gardening, cooking, dancing, drinking

good vino or working on her country property

with her husband Wootten.

ladonnadelvino.com

TWITTER: ladonnadelvino

FACEBOOK: la-donna-del-vino

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THE GRAM STORE

25% OFF THE ENTIRE MOUNT ZERO RANGE

MAY ONLYCODE: MTZERO25

www.gramstore.com.au

MOUNT ZERO OLIVES SALE

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NOW OPEN

HAPPY PLACEOPENED: May 9, 2016Celebrated Nutritionist Lola Berry and coffee mastermind, Salvatore Malatesta (of St. Ali) have joined forces to launch “Happy Place” juice bar and café within the heart of South Melbourne Market. With the ultimate goal to deliver a sense of health and happiness to each and every customer, the aptly named “Happy Place” will open Friday May 6, 2016.

“Happy Place” is all about inspiring wellness and being a place where you can pick up healthy on-the-go meals, snacks, smoothies and juices, however, it’s also about empowering you to find the happy place within yourself,” says Lola Berry.

The menu is balanced between sweet and savoury goodies to satiate your appetite at any time – whether it’s a breakfast smoothie, a fresh desk-side salad, or a protein rich post workout treat.

STALL 56 - SOUTH MELBOURNE MARKET, CECIL ST SOUTH MELBOURNE

UNTZ UNTZOPENED: March 8, 2016It is called UNTZ UNTZ (say it out loud) – a 280 capacity Band room with a side room that holds 60 people, all with a 24-hour liquor license. Boom. Please welcome UNTZ UNTZ to the Hawthorn Revival.

Stage One of UNTZ UNTZ (formerly known as Cheers to Melbourne’s Gen X’s and Y’s) is now complete with Stage Two being holy moly (pub designed by Michael Delaney) and Boozy Soozy (think $4 Lucky Coq and Bimbo Deluxe style of pizzas, but better because the local pizza god Henry Chan is behind the U.U venture, plus all your favourite cocktails on tap) joining the new and exciting Hawthorn precinct this September 2016.660A GLENFERRIE ROAD, HAWTHORNfacebook.com/untzuntz

ABOUT LIFEOPENED: May 1, 2016Australia’s largest and fastest growing holistic lifestyle hub, About Life, has opened its first Melbourne store on Bay Street, Port Melbourne. About Life is a one-stop shop for natural groceries, an inspired wholefoods café as well as a ready-to-eat nature’s servery. There is even an in-store wellness expert and concierge, all under one ethical, sustainable roof - rain, kale or shine! An annual 15% growth in the natural and organic industry since 2009 (Australian Organic Market Report 2014) proves Australia’s growing appetite for wellness. In 2016, About Life celebrates its 20th anniversary, advocating that wellness is not a trend but a lifestyle choice.

About Life’s promise is to eliminate the nasties - artificial preservatives, flavours, sweeteners, colours and more - found in conventional supermarkets and instead replace these with natural, ethical groceries that won’t break the bank or leave a large footprint.

120 BAY STREET, PORT MELBOURNEaboutlife.com.au

BLUEBONNET BBQOPENED: April 27, 2016Chris Terlikar and his team at Melbourne barbecue joint, Bluebonnet, have re-stoked their fires and are re-opening the doors at what was the iconic North Fitzroy Star. After their first location in Collingwood was devastated by fire in May 2015, Terlikar set up shop at ‘Carmelita’ to run successful pop ups at The John Curtin Hotel and the Point Lonsdale Surf Lifesaving Club.

To kick off the opening of Bar Loretta, Bluebonnet is teaming up with Stone and Wood for Good Beer Week with their Circle of Life dinner – celebrating all things grain, grass, pork and glass.

32 ST GEORGES ROAD SOUTH,FITZROY NORTHbluebonnetbbq.com.au

SAKE - FLINDERS LANEOPENED: April 28, 2016Melbourne’s world-renowned dining destination is now home to Saké Restaurant & Bar’s fifth contemporary Japanese restaurant – Saké Flinders Lane.Sprawled over two storeys in Melbourne’s famed gastronomic destination, Flinders Lane, this new Saké venue is a super-luxe, high-energy addition to Melbourne’s CBD. The entry level of the two-storey venue at 121 Flinders Lane includes a dramatic dining counter combining a sushi bar and spectacular robatayaki grill. The menu features dishes unique to the Flinders Lane venue, including Japanese staple yakitori, and the largest range of umeshu, sake and Japanese whisky of all the Saké venues

121 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNEsakerestaurant.com.au

ZERO GRADIOPENED: April 19, 2016Johnny Di Francesco, Melbourne’s pizza king and owner of renowned 400 Gradi and Gradi at Crown, is taking his first steps down a sweeter path - opening his first stand alone gelataria, Zero Gradi last month.

Opening just a few doors down from his flagship restaurant 400 Gradi on Lygon Street, the sweet delights on offer at Zero Gradi promise to transport customers straight to the heart of Italy – which is precisely what Johnny wants. The master pizza Chef says he has been considering the venture for a while, with the idea for Zero Gradi ignited by the longing for traditional Neapolitan gelato he feels every time he leaves his family’s homeland of Naples. SHOP 1/93-97 LYGON STREET EAST BRUNSWICK400gradi.com.au

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AROUND THE TRAPS

AUSTRALIAN FOOD AWARDS

The Royal Agricultural Society of Victoria (RASV) has announced a new opportunity for Australian food producers with the launch of the Australian Food Awards.

Building on the success of RASV’s Royal Melbourne Fine Food Awards, the Australian Food Awards will offer broader opportunities to Australian producers to leverage their success locally and internationally with the Australian Food Awards’ national brand seal of excellence.

RASV CEO, Mark O’Sullivan said the introduction of the Australian Food Awards reflects the RASV’s ongoing commitment to enhancing its food and beverage award programs.

The Australian Food Awards offers eight overarching categories, including Dairy, Meat, Poultry, Seafood, Fresh Produce, Grains and Pulses, Pantry Goods and Convenience Foods.

“The eight categories incorporate the Royal Melbourne Fine Food Awards’ former 16 categories whilst expanding the program offering to introduce new categories that reflect growing consumer food trends, such as ready to eat and prepared meals in the Convenience Foods category, truffles in the Fresh Produce category and goat and pork in the Meat category,” said Mr O’Sullivan.

Entries will open on 24 May and more than 100 leading industry experts will judge the categories from 7 to 22 July. Due to seasonality, judging for Olive Oil will take place separately in August, with a further seasonal judging program in February. Enter online here: http://food.rasv.com.au

Mother’s Day

lAT THE MARKET

WHAT’S ON

l

MARKET OPEN 8AM - 4PMLIVE JAZZ 9AM - 12PM

BREAKFAST, BRUNCH, LUNCHFLOWERS, MASSAGE, GIFTS

Gift Guide and details at southmelbournemarket.com.au

Enjoy 2 hours FREE parking on Market days

Corner Coventry & Cecil Streets, South Melbourne

The new start up changing the way we experience food when we travel. Founded in Bangkok by two young foodies and travellers, Cookly is an online marketplace that connects people to culinary activities anywhere in the world. Both locals and travellers can use Cookly to connect to local professional chefs and established cooking schools in a number of Asian cities for a truly unique culinary experience.

Already, the young startup is planning for expansions into Japan, with more long term plans in place for other regions, including Australia, Europe and the Americas. Cookly will also grow to offer more than cooking classes. Activities on the horizon include wine tastings, food tours, mixology classes and much more.

cookly.me

Preston is bringing more than just your favourite street fare in 2016. Alongside Melbourne’s favourite food trucks and Barry’s Bar, The Food Truck Park™ brings new events and a diverse entertainment line-up to the former car-yard on High Street.

New Kids on The Block, Saturday May 7 – Want to try

the freshest food truck purveyors in Melbourne? New

Kids on the Block brings together the newest trucks to

satisfy attendees with a global mix of cuisines.

Euro Take Over, Friday May 13 – As Australia enters its

second year as Eurovision contenders The Food Truck

Park is celebrating with a huge Euro Take Over event.

Support your favourite nation with each food truck

serving up a different European cuisine plus DJ’s and

of course lots of colour.

Latin Fiesta Party, Saturday May 28 – Preston brings

Latin America to the north this May. An event to heat up

Melbournians in the colder months we are showcasing

the best in Latin food trucks from Brazil to Cuba.

Winter Foodie Fest, June 2016 – Throughout the

month of June Preston transforms into a magical and

tasty foodie fest boasting a spectacular light display,

light up figurines and a rotation of food trucks to warm

visitors this winter. With a vast indoor area Preston is

the perfect place to keep warm and sample the best in

street food this June.

World Environment Day, Saturday June 4 – Vegetarians,

vegans and ethically minded foodies will love our World

Environment Day event. Bringing Melbourne the best in

plant based street food this event features Melbourne’s

vego food truck favourites to Preston.

THE FOOD PARK TRUCK WINTER SERIES

AN INTERSECTION OF FOOD AND TECH

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WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LAUREN KENRICK

CITY PRECINCT FOOD TOUR: BEING FED AND WATERED BY

3000 Trawling through Melbourne’s laneways, tasting our city’s many culinary

delights with like-minded foodies is exactly how I want to be spending my

weekends, so an invite to the City Precinct Food Tour with the team from

GRAM Magazine was, for me, the perfect Saturday out.

One of my favourite elements about being a food blogger in Melbourne, is

the opportunity to meet the passionate and talented creatives behind-the-

scenes at restaurants, cafes and specialty food stores. The City Precinct

connects these passionate individuals, retail and hospitality alike, encouraging

networking and community. With more than 100 members, our City Precinct

Tour was but an introduction to this vibrant community of small, local, and

sometimes hidden, independent retailers, and I for one, can’t wait to go back.

CABOOSE CANTEEN4 City Square, Swanston Street, Melbourne

PH: 9663 4448

INSTAGRAM: caboosecanteen

TWITTER: CabooseCanteen

www.caboosecanteen.com.au

Our big day of eating began with a light breakfast at Caboose Canteen, a cosy

café in bustling City Square. A stone’s throw away from Federation Square

and housed amongst the hub of activity that is busy Swanston St, this café

hosts a prime position. Caboose Canteen offers simple, homely breakfast and

lunch dishes served by charismatic and entertaining staff.

CLEMENTINE’S

7 Degraves St, Melbourne

PH: 9639 2681

INSTAGRAM: clementines3000

FACEBOOK: clementines3000

www.clementines.com.au

A short walk away, the bright orange scooter parked in Degraves Street

guided us towards Clementine’s, home of some of Melbourne’s finest food

and giftware. Small in size but big in passion, this store is a haven for anyone

wanting to find unique Melbourne gifts (for friends, or for yourself) particularly

those of the artisan food variety.

It was inspiring to hear Melanie, the store’s owner, chat candidly about the

creators of the products she stocks. All are made in Victoria, usually small

batch or made solely by the owner, and she knows the names and backstories

of all of her suppliers. It is clear that this shop is ran with a true love and

fondness for Melbourne. Our morning tea consisted of some delicacies from

Asterisk foods, a small patisserie company located in leafy Warrandyte. The

charcoal lavosh crackers and raspberry meringues were so delicious I have

already jumped online to buy some more.

Clementine’s also supports Rooftop Bees, an organisation we should all

be aware of given the significant role bees play in our ecosystem. Not only

does Clementine’s sponsor a hive right above their shop on the rooftop of

Degraves St, you can also taste or purchase the honey from this hive. Just

wait until you taste the difference between supermarket bought honey and

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fresh honey from Melbourne’s own bees.

LA VITA BUONA44-86 Swanston St, Melbourne

PH: 9654 7855

INSTAGRAM: lavitabuona

TWITTER: lavitabuona

www.lavitabuona.com.au

Clementine’s gift bags in hand, we ambled back to City Square for our morning

tea stop at La Vita Buona (a sister restaurant to Caboose Canteen, and literally

located next door) and were all of a sudden transported to Italy. La Vita Buona

is a beautiful venue, featuring an elegant décor of blonde wood and exposed

brick walls. Not for the last time that day, we felt as though we had found a little

slice of Europe in the heart of the Melbourne CBD.

Not your traditional morning tea; we luxuriously nibbled on freshly made

antipasto whilst sipping on aperitifs and enjoyed the ambient surroundings, as

one should spend early afternoon on a Saturday in Melbourne. The wider menu

consists of European style share food, pastas and mains.

JOURNAL253 Flinders Ln, Melbourne

PH: 9650 4399

FACEBOOK: TheJournalCafe

TWITTER: JournalCafe

www.journalcafe.com.au

Feeling very relaxed after our leisurely morning, we moved on to discover

another of the City Precinct’s more unique and hidden members, the Journal

Café and Canteen discreetly tucked away in front of the City Library. On

entering the café, we were immediately hit by a combination of familiar and

comforting smells - toasted sandwiches, freshly roasted coffee and books.

Combined with dark wooden tables and leather seats, the café had such a

homely feel and seemed the perfect spot to read a book or catch up with

friends for some academic conversation. As we settled in and ordered a round

of coffees, we mused among ourselves that the vibe of this café was hipster,

but before hipster was even a trend.

I don’t think even our group of mega-foodies were expecting just how epic

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Journal’s club sandwiches would be; huge is an understatement.

Lightly toasted and filled with chicken, homemade mayonnaise with

dill and capers, tomato and lettuce. Traditional and simple, but with a

gourmet touch, and oh so Instagram worthy!

KIRKS WINE BAR & THE FRENCH SALOONLittle Bourke St, Melbourne VIC 3000

PH: 9600 4550

INSTAGRAM: kirkswinebar | frenchsaloon

FACEBOOK: Kirks-Wine-Bar | frenchsaloon

TWITTER: kirkswinebar | frenchsaloon

www.kirkswinebar.com

www.frenchsaloon.com

Sufficiently sandwiched, but still somehow able to muster up some

kind of appetite, we trekked to the very edge of popular Hardware

Lane to discover another somewhat hidden gem, Kirks Wine Bar and

the French Saloon. From the same genius that bought The European

to Melbourne, this two storey European style bar and bistro functions

as two separate spaces.

The upstairs French Saloon serves sophisticated French fare in a

relaxed, lofty space that doubles as a unique function room, complete

with its own terrace balcony. Kirks, on the ground level operates as

a Parisian style wine bar, offering share plates, including the most

brilliant charcuterie platter I have seen in Melbourne. Even with the

array of stunning food and wine on offer, for me, the most intriging

aspect about Kirk’s was the hidden away, private dining. Following

our waitress down a spiral metal staircase, Snapchat at the ready, we

all “oohed” and “aahed” as we were escorted into an intimate private

dining area (which also doubles as a wine cellar). Here we shared

French wine and freshly prepared charcuterie. Whilst Kirk’s website

states no bookings, let us tell you a little secret - this area can be

booked for lunch or dinner for six to 10 people.

GLAMP BAR267 Little Collins St, Melbourne VIC 3000

PH: 9650 2811

INSTAGRAM: glampbar

polepolebar.com.au

By this time of the day, after our aperitifs and wine, it was time for

some serious drinks. And who better to visit for serious drinks than

the cocktail master himself, Ben Hehir of Glamp Bar, the stylish

African inspired venue situated above Polepole.

Ben’s bar tending resume is incredibly impressive, having worked

in some of London and New York’s best cocktail bars and having

trained under the inventor of the espresso martini himself, Dick

Bradsell. The perfect afternoon ‘pick me ups’ after a long day of

eating and touring, Ben prepared for us some of the most incredible

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coffee based cocktails I have tried. The Coffee Negroni even had those

of us who weren’t usually keen on Negronis, completely swooning.

Just as inspiring as his cocktails, was Ben’s philosophy on the hospitality

industry, the importance of customer interaction, and the firm belief

in his role as being someone who should be creating a positive

experience for everybody who walks into his bar. The experience of

watching an artist at work, in his element, tasting the art itself and

listening to somebody who loves and knows the industry so well tell us

about his experiences was such an entertaining way to spend an hour.

After a few cocktails, we called it a day and headed home with very

happy, full tummies. Our tour gave us a satisfying yet only very small

glimpse of the many food and beverage related businesses associated

with the City Precinct. We walked (rolled) away with a better idea of the

importance of having a networking committee embracing, overseeing

and helping to guide the community culture of this bustling part of

the city.

We look forward to seeing what they have in store over the coming

months.

CITY PRECINCTwww.cityprecinct.com.au

TWITTER: CityPrecinct

FACEBOOK: CityPrecinct

INSTAGRAM: cityprecinct

La Vita Buona is a beautiful venue, featuring an elegant décor of blonde wood and exposed brick walls. Not for the last time that day, we felt as though we had found a little slice of Europe in the heart of the Melbourne CBD.

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WORDS BY MEGAN OSBORNE PHOTOGRAPHY BY MEGAN OSBORNE AND THE ROYAL MAIL

ROYAL MAIL

The Grampians in Victoria are abundant in gourmet produce and

vibrant vineyards. With both the Pyrenees and Grampian wine regions,

there is so much to see, experience and taste, that the three-hour drive

from Melbourne is definitely worth it. Indeed, it’s such a wine and food

destination, the recent Grape Escape wine festival was held in Halls Gap.

But when someone mentions ‘The Grampians’ in the same sentence as

‘food’, there is one inevitable conclusion a foodie’s mind jumps to: The

Royal Mail Hotel.

Robin Wickens—head chef at the Royal Mail—recently made the trip back

to the inner city (pressure), and cooked up a grand gastronomic dinner at

iconic Melbourne metro restaurant, Eureka 89. We took the chance to talk

to him about flavour, farming and fresh produce.

Wickens started working at the Royal Mail in 2013, after an impressive

career cooking in London and Australia. Originally hesitant to step back

into the kitchen, Wickens changed his mind upon seeing the resources

available at the Dunkeld destination. Keen to put his own stamp on the

kitchen-garden concept, Wickens sought to instil a philosophy of a truly

honest kitchen garden. ‘Kitchen gardens are a very trendy thing right now,

and a lot of PR spin goes into them sometimes’, says Wickens. ‘I wanted

to be able to say we do actually get 85 - 90% of the produce from our

garden.’

The garden has grown considerably in the last three years, now taking

up just under a hectare, complete with geese that act as the organically-

friendly pest control, and with some newly implemented snail farms and

mushroom cultivation—not to mention livestock, too. Even given it’s epic

size, the menu still comes second to what’s happening in the garden, and

ends up being reliant on the success of produce. ‘It’s very dictated by what

the garden does, rather than what we want to cook’, says Wickens. ‘If we

can’t grow it, we won’t use it, so there’ll never be mangoes, or tropical

fruits’. While this seasonal cooking approach can at times be limited, it

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also depends strongly on a chefs ability to be imaginative, he continues;

‘Coming into winter when there’s not that much around, you have to be

pretty creative, lots of stinging nettles,’ Wickens laughs.

The other downfall to a seasonal kitchen is the regularity—or lack thereof—

of ingredients the Royal Mail are reliant on using for each season. Wickens

loves to cook ‘whatever’s new’. He says, ‘We’ve got so many quinces at the

moment—which is great—but I have a very low attention span I think, so in

another week I’ll be bored with quinces.’ It’s not just the poor quinces that

get a bad rap, Wickens jokes, telling us; ‘We hang out for the first tomatoes

of the season, and then by now we just can’t look at another tomato.’

The Royal Mail menu changes weekly, sometimes even more frequently,

relying on a truly flexible and inventive cooking style. The term ‘seasonal’ is

thrown around a lot in relation to cooking these days, but Wickens believes

his team take it to the next level. Their kitchen-garden ethos renders them

unable to shop around for what they want at farmers markets, but to have

to wait until produce is ready to be harvested. ‘At the start of spring you

see all the Instagram shots of people using asparagus and broad beans, and

we don’t have any! We’re just sitting, waiting for it, going “come on, come

on!” So we are whatever the next stage from seasonal is,’ says Wickens.

There are however loads of benefits that come with growing your own

food, such as access to ingredients that many chefs pay a premium for,

says Wickens: ‘We have things like zucchini flowers which in a normal

kitchen are quite expensive, but we have so many that we’re making soups

and sauces, and you can get quite extravagant with things like that.’ Using

a zucchini flower to create soup seems extreme, but it’s these leaps of

creativity that lead to mind blowing dishes, such as the chestnut ice-cream

we were able to taste at the Eureka 89 dinner. This smoothly rich and nutty

dessert was created using chestnut leaves—believe it or not—resulting in

a memorably unique flavour. Wickens mentions another popular dish—

also ice cream—that has been ‘a real hit of late’, the eggplant ice cream

sandwich appetiser (so visit when you know it’s eggplant season!).

The menu served up at Eureka 89 was packed full of intriguing tastes,

from a rich (as in ‘I’m a billionaire that owns ten Maseratis, not just one’

rich) pork jowl served with acorn puree, fig compote and beans, matched

with a 2014 Mount Macleod Pinot Noir from Victoria, to a tender and soft

lamb with nutty and unique sunchoke and sunflower seeds, paired with a

2013 Masssolino, Langhe Nebbiolo from Piedmont in Italy. The standout

was absolutely the aforementioned chestnut ice cream, served with blood

orange and chestnut puree, and matched with a decadent 2012 Disznoko

‘late harvest’ Tokaj from Hungary.

The metropolitain backdrop was a stark contrast to the regional produce

on our plates, but it worked well, as Wickens states, to celebrate the

juxtaposition: ‘The Eureka tower is an iconic destination in Melbourne, and

the Royal Mail Hotel is an iconic destination in regional Victoria, so it’s great

that we have an opportunity to bring two exciting landmarks together in

such an innovative way.’

As the Eureka Tower in Melbourne is a tourist hot-spot, The Royal Mail

Hotel is in itself a destination. There are some pretty great things about

The Grampians, Wickens tell us: ‘I think The Grampians is a pretty amazing

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part of Australia, and especially Victoria—it’s not everyone’s first idea of a

place to go. They all go to the Great Ocean Road or they go to the snow,

it’s almost like this forgotten area that people don’t even know exists. It’s

really such an iconic place, amazing scenery, and you can have a really

good meal too.’ The offering at the Royal Mail is set to get a whole lot

more exciting in the near future—we didn’t realise that was possible!—with

a plan of becoming completely self-sustaining, a collaboration with Yarra

Valley Winery, and the workings of being able to harvest honey, truffles and

pork soon, too.

While we jumped at the opportunity to skip out on the three hour drive,

but still enjoy the sensational offerings of an amazing kitchen—and its

garden—it’s safe to say that team GRAM would not hesitate to jump in

the car next time, and make the well-worth-it trip along to Dunkeld, in

ravishing regional Victoria.

ROYAL MAIL HOTEL

98 Parker Street, Dunkeld

[email protected],

+61 3 5577 2241

TWD1602

PALL MALL

ROSALINDPARK

GAOL RD

HIGH ST

CREEK ST STH.

CREEK ST NTH.

MACKENZIE ST

FOR

EST

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WAT

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McCRAE ST

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WILLS STMYERS ST

MOLLISON ST

McLAREN ST

GALVIN ST

HOPPER STOLINDA ST

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GLADSTONE ST

CAR

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STERNBERG ST

GARSED ST

HARGREAVES ST

HOPETOUN ST

HOWARD PLACE

QUEEN ST

BENDIGORAILWAY STATION

13 minutes walk

6 minutes walk

Page 18: Gram ISSUE 61 // May 2016

ANDREW’S BURGERS GIDDIUP ANCHORAGEJBS HOSPITALITY GROUPINNOCENT BYSTANDER

“My restaurant has used the services of Chef’s

Hat for approximately 3 years. Initially for

major kitchen equipment during a renovation,

extending to various crockery, glassware,

cutlery and utensils. During this time, we have

developed a dependable relationship with Chef’s

Hat.. Their range, quality, service and support

is excellent and competitively priced. I highly

recommend Chef’s Hat for a restaurant/cafe’s

needs.”

 Andrew Daniell – Owner

ANCHORAGE

“We have been working with Chef’s Hat for

over 6 years now across all 11 of our hospitality

venues and we are absolutely delighted with the

service. They take the time to work on our needs,

circumstances & preferences for each individual

site. They offer great turnaround times, easy

ordering systems and smooth account operation.

We highly recommend Chef’s Hat for your

hospitality needs.”

Karen Owen - Operations Manager

JBS HOSPITALITY GROUP

We use Chef’s Hat as our main supplier for

everything from glassware through to pastry

cutters. They are an amazing source of nearly

every item you could need to run your hospitality

business. They are extremely helpful on the

phone and have a fantastic team of staff that are

always on hand to help us with whatever we need.

I regularly use their website which is always up

to date and is a fantastic point of reference to see

visually what you would like to order. We would

highly recommend any new or old business to

seek these guys out!

Carron Gordon - Hospitality Administrator

INNOCENT BYSTANDER VIGNERONS &

WINEMAKERS

“Chef’s Hat has everything I need under one roof

and at the best prices. It’s a great feeling to know

that when you walk into Chef’s Hat, you will get the

level of care for your business that we put into our

family business. “

Greg Pappas

ANDREW’S BURGERS, ALBERT PARK

What do we love about Chefs Hat?

A fantastic product range and great service. To

us, Chefs Hat just feel like an extension of our

team at Giddiup. Oh... And did we mention that

they’re at our doorstep?!

Angie & Kirbie – Owners

GIDDIUP

Page 19: Gram ISSUE 61 // May 2016

ANADA, BOMBA GREEN PARK BISHOP SESSAFANCY HANKSASCOT FOOD STORE

“The restaurant game is populated with big-

talkers but precious few who can do what they

promise. Chef’s Hat has been, from the beginning,

a restaurateur’s best friend. Accessible, dynamic

and dripping with ideas. Restaurant openings are

nightmarish enough but with Chefs Hat on your

side the pain is considerably less. I wouldn’t dream

of doing business without them.”

Erez Gordon – Restaurant Owner, Consultant

& Front of House Specialist

BISHOP SESSA

“I’ve been ordering kitchen supplies from

Chef’s Hat for eight years now. Across my three

Melbourne restaurants (Añada, Bomba and

Green Park) we order everything from sponges to

paella pans, they always arrive in top nick and on

time. I recommend Chefs Hat to home cooks and

restaurant cooks alike, you’ll get the best service

no matter how big your kitchen.”

Jesse Gerner - Owner and Chef

ANADA, BOMBA AND

GREEN PARK DINING.

“Chef’s Hat always has what we need and if it’s

something they don’t usually stock they go out of

their way to source it for us or point us in the right

direction. They’re always available to answer any

queries I might have and when placing my order

I know it will turn up on time and correct, every

time.”

Daragh Khan, Kent Bell, Mike Patrick, Myles Munro - Owners

FANCY HANKS

“When I’m looking for innovative products, new

concepts and quality, with knowledgeable service

that always makes you feel like a part of a team,

Chef’s Hat always has what I’m after.”

David Stewart - Owner and Chef

ASCOT FOOD STORE

Page 20: Gram ISSUE 61 // May 2016

20

GRAM FEATURE

THINGS WE LOVE

SO:ME Space is a unique retail concept in the heart of

the South Melbourne Market dedicated to great design,

fashion, homewares and creativity.

The permanent stalls in the space include the home of

Rollie shoes – Lost in Seasons; TheSuperCool showcasing

the latest trends in home and giftware; Stone, Glint and

Bone with their own eclectic range of jewellery; Bakerlite

specialising in Papillionaire bicycles and accessories; and

Mr Simple and Hew both with a great range of clothing for

the lads.

There is also an ever changing pop-up space offering an opportunity for emerging

local designers to promote their products and spread their name. During May we’ll be

showcasing brands including Constance Roe, Banjara, Sarah van Oosterom, Lolicu, Millie

Archer, Jack and Jules, ShopWisely, Koenji Vintage and Cactus Country.

For more information visit somespace.com.au

SO:ME SPACE - A SUPER COOL SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

SOUTHMELBOURNEMARKET.COM.AU

STOP. TURMERIC AND LISTEN... WHAT IS GOLDEN GRIND EXACTLY?

A delicious, all natural, super food so tasty to drink, you’ll be left wanting more.

It is the perfectly proportioned blend of 100% natural, unmodified turmeric,

cinnamon, ginger and black pepper.

Our special blend creates an amazing hot golden drink just by adding hot

water and your favourite milk or mylk at home, or easily transformed in the

perfect café golden latte.

The overwhelming health properties of these ingredients include, although

are not limited to:

• Highly anti-inflammatory • Strong anti-oxidant • Great for gut health

• Caffeine, sugar, gluten, nut and dairy free drink alternative

Having had enormous success selling golden lattes at their formally owned

café, Evolve Fair Food Store, Golden Grind is the answer to the do-it-yourself

mixing process.

The team behind Golden Grind have a

blended abundance of experience in

hospitality and FMCG whilst together

include a nutritionist, a sportsman and

a model. Turmeric and golden lattes

certainly fall into the “superfoods”

category and their market presences is

definitely here to stay.

We hope you get the chance to enjoy

our product and allow your insides to

enjoy the instant benefits.

Enjoy. Be Bliss. Be present. Be Golden

#iamgold

Golden Grind is available to purchase online, WWW.GOLDENGRIND.COM.AU

LIBERTY KOMBUCHA

Created by Melbourne cafe-industry husband and

wife duo James McKay and Jacqui Alexander, Liberty

Kombucha is brewed and bottled by hand in small-

batches. An ancient elixir that has been enjoyed

for centuries, Liberty Kombucha uses all organic

ingredients and is full of healthy, living bacteria

known as probiotics.

Kombucha is a fermented tea, a super drink that

supports the nervous system and aids in the

digestive process. Kombucha is made by brewing a

large amount of tea and then, with the addition of

mother culture – also known as a SCOBY (symbiotic

culture of bacteria and yeast) – it becomes alive. This

mother culture activates the drink, propelling it into

a living and healing beverage. After a fermentation

period of roughly three weeks, the flavour of the

drink is crafted by adding fruits, roots and spices to

the mix.

Find Liberty Kombucha at cafes throughout

Melbourne including Kettle Black, Barry Coffee and

Food and Sir Charles.

LIBERTYKOMBUCHA.COM

Page 21: Gram ISSUE 61 // May 2016

21www.chefshat.com.au

GRAM FEATURE

THINGS WE LOVE

MOUNT ZERO ON SALE - THE GRAM STORE

Mount Zero Olives is a family owned olive grove three hours west of Melbourne

on the northern edge of the Grampians National Park in Victoria, Australia.

Commitment to flavour, sustainable farming, ethical harvest and a passion for

quality produce defines Mount Zero Olives and all that we grow and gather.

Planted in the 1940’s, The Mount Zero Olive Grove is one of oldest olive groves

in Australia.

1. BIODYNAMIC FRENCH STYLE FINE GREEN LENTILS 500gm

As the name suggests, these lentils are a variety originating from Puy in France.

However these lentils grow exceptionally well in the soils of the Wimmera,

and are a favourite amongst our restaurant customers. Renowned for their

deep nutty flavour and for holding their shape when cooked, these lentils are

as perfect for summer salads as they are in winter soups and braised dishes. A

great companion to feta, chevre, mint, peas, tomatoes and game. These lentils

do not need to be soaked and take about 20 minutes to cook.

MAY ONLY: $6.35 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25

2. DRESSING FAVOURITES (OEVOO, RED-WINE VINEGAR, L-P EVOO)

Gold Medal favourites, one and all! This is a medley for all occasions featuring

100ml Lemon-pressed Extra Virgin Olive Oil, 100ml Organic Extra Virgin Olive

Oil, and 100ml Matured Red Wine Vinegar.

MAY ONLY: $12.70 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25

3. BIO-DYNAMIC OLIVE LEAF TEA

Made from the leaves of the manzanilla olive trees which have the highest

therapeutic antioxidant qualities. The leaves are steamed, rubbed, rolled

and dried with care in a traditional Japanese green tea processing plant in

Victoria, maintaining excellent colour and nutritional value.

MAY ONLY: $10.10 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25

4. RED WINE VINEGAR

Aged in oak barrels, Mount Zero Red Wine Vinegar, has a deep berry/plum

flavour taken from its main ingredient, wine, which is made from Cabernet

Sauvignon grapes.

MAY ONLY: $10.90 THEGRAMSTORE.COM.AU Code: MTZERO25

1 2

34

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23

WORDS BY AMBER DE LUCA-TAO

MATCHA MYLKBAR

Matcha Mylkbar is the newest and freshest vegan café to hit the Melbourne

food scene. The café itself is situated in the heart of St Kilda, right on

the corner that marks the intersection between Acland Street and The

Esplanade.

These days there are dozens of eateries with menus that once upon a time

may have been considered ‘a little left of field’. If you consider yourself a

frequent and educated Melbourne brunch-goer, you would probably agree

that mushroom bacon is no longer a surprise to find in the additional items

section of the menu.

The Matcha Mylkbar is completely plant-based, so yes, you can add

mushroom bacon to your toast. But one Melbourne breakfast regular you

won’t find on the menu is caffeine. Turmeric lattes, beetroot lattes, cacao

lattes, mushroom lattes. But no café lattes.

Co-owner Mark Fillipelli says that the team were confident in their menu

from the beginning.

So this is not going to be a stock standard write-up about how satisfied

I am with my coffee and if my amount of smashed avo was acceptable.

Because no disrespect to every Melbourne brunch review ever written in

history, it would be to an extent, an extremely superficial way to discuss

Matcha Mylkbar.

With all the plant-based eateries around Melbourne at the moment, what

makes Matcha Mylkbar stand out from the rest? You’re probably thinking,

well that’s obvious. There’s matcha in everything. Well, think again.

To be more accurate, only one third of the menu’s items contain matcha.

Matcha pancakes, matcha smoothie bowls and matcha burger buns that

are as green as a luscious patch of freshly mown grass in spring. This is

definitely an aspect that makes Matcha Mylkbar unique. But this is not

their only drawcard.

The team behind Matcha Mylkbar are all non-vegans. So believe me when

I say that they have achieved their goal to create meals that people won’t

realise are completely vegan.

And by vegan I not only mean plant-based, but food with a purpose. A

purpose to address the unethical practices of caged and confined mass

production that currently exists. (Now do you see why rating their non-

caffeine lattes is a totally shallow angle to this piece. Although it must be

said, my cacao latte was extremely smooth, silky and a perfect balance of

sweet and bitter. Would recommend.)

So as a result, they have taken proactive measures to address the

aforementioned issue. Cue vegan eggs™.

Matcha Mylkbar’s vegan eggs™ are an original recipe. They look like

traditional eggs, have a similar texture to that of traditional eggs and even

come complete with the same yolk experience. We’re talking the same

amount of pleasure of slicing into the little bundle of joy to be greeted with

the exact runniness and thick consistency of a perfectly cooked poachie.

*Melbourne rejoices*

Mark says, “It’s a little sweeter in taste than a traditional egg, but more

compassionate.”

There are three simple whole-food staples that are needed to create the

vegan egg: coconut mylk, sweet potato and linseed, the ingredient that is

responsible for giving it the same protein content as a traditional egg. The

process however, is kept under tight lock and key.

If there’s one thing for sure, it’s that Matcha Mylkbar is a serious game

changer and strong forerunner in the future of modern brunch. It has set

a new standard for the level of innovation and sustainability that can be

incorporated into a both a healthy and deliciously satisfying meal.

This is definitely a brunch hotspot you want to put on your to-eat-at list.

But don’t get too ahead of yourself because you’re going to have to get

in line.

MATCHA MYLKBAR

72A Acland Street, St Kilda

matchamylkbar.com

INSTAGRAM: matcha_mylkbar

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25

WORDS BY LAUREN BRUCE

INTERVIEW: BRYAN PETROFFBIG GAY ICE CREAM

Before Messina, before Pidapipo, and before all the other boundary-pushing

ice cream products were being pumped out around the world at the

alarming rate they are now, there existed in the States a little food truck

with a big personality: the Big Gay Ice Cream truck.

Only a few years after Twitter and Facebook were launched, BGIC co-

founders Bryan Petroff and Doug Quint took advantage of the social media

platforms to launch a brand of ice cream desserts that were decidedly more

adult than could have previously been purchased from a Mr Whippy-style

van.

Since the truck graced New York streets for the first time in 2009, Petroff

and Quint have launched three stores, written a recipe book and become

firm friends with Anthony Bourdain, the world’s most reputable foul-

mouthed food writer.

We spoke to Petroff in Melbourne during the Melbourne Food and Wine

Festival to talk all things sophisticated soft serve, accidentally political

business names and why Big Gay Ice Cream loves coming to Australia.

Bryan you were working in Human Resources and Doug was a classical

bassoonist when you decided to start the Big Gay Ice Cream truck. What

made you opt for such a drastic career change?

The truck was really just happenstance. In 2009, a friend of Doug’s – they

went to Julliard together – had been featured in the New York Times

regarding her ice cream truck, and it got recognition and coverage and that

kind of intrigued people.

She knew Doug was looking for something to do over the summer, so she

was like, “Do you want to do this?” And he said, “Sure”. I came on board

because it was an opportunity to create a little mobile restaurant.

[Doug’s friend] was just [operating it as] a Mr Whippy truck, so I said, “Let’s

have a little fun with the menu.” The truck owner let us do that and let us

brand it. We did that for three summers as a seasonal truck, and it wasn’t

until we opened our first shop in 2011 that we had to make a big decision,

you know: are we ice cream people or is this just a summer project? Now

that we were actually [starting] a shop that would be open full-time, all year

round, we had to start making decisions. So I quit my job and Doug pulled

out of his doctorate program [at Julliard].

You made quite a, some would say, political statement with the brand

name, Big Gay Ice Cream. Was this deliberate?

It was actually the opposite of a political statement. We’re not political

people. [But] as much as we didn’t want to be political, we also didn’t want

to be a gimmick, because we wanted people to realise we were actually

paying attention to the quality of what we were doing and presenting.

So the name was a lark. Doug made a comment on Facebook that was

something to the affect of, “Hey, I’m going to have a big gay ice cream

truck this summer. So I’m going to start a blog if you guys want to follow

the adventures and are interested.” And then we were like, “Well, that’s our

name.”

So no motivation [other than] we liked the ambiguity of it, we like the play

on “happy” or “gay”, and once we had the name we gave it to our friend who

is an art director who came up with the logo for it.

We actually did a presentation in Toronto two years ago where the theme of

the convention was ‘Food As A Social Change’ and we talked about being

accidentally political. What we realise is that people look at us however they

want to look at us. We try to remain apolitical, [so] if they see us as weird

kooky people who are just having fun, then that’s who we are. If they think

we’re the antichrist trying to indoctrinate children through ice cream…

Jeez! Have you come across that?!

Oh yeah.

And what do you do with that stuff? Do you simply ignore it and move on?

You have to. It’s just so ridiculous… and in my mind, they’re projecting their

own sense of fear and how they look at the world [onto us]. It’s like, my god,

if you think we’re going after children, then you are way beyond what I or

ice cream can do for you.

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26

I remember when you guys started, I was back in Melbourne following the

ice cream truck’s whereabouts on twitter going, nobody else is doing this

“sophisticated soft serve” stuff. How did you come up with that concept?

It was just because it was there. That was the truck that we had, and it was

like, “Well, let’s not do the same old thing. Let’s have fun with it.” Our feeling

was Mr Whippy hadn’t changed their menu in decades, and there’s so much

more you could do with it. While we didn’t cook ourselves, we loved going

out to eat, and we loved following chefs and pastry chefs, and had travelled

internationally and so we tried to bring in all of those concepts.

We thought of it like, if the truck was inside a restaurant, what would it

be doing? And so bringing in olive oil and sea salt and ginger and curry

and wasabi and all these flavours Mr Whippy never approached, it seemed

very natural. We even would joke, like, “Why, why hasn’t anybody done this

before? Why did it take until the 2000s before somebody thought, hey, this

can be more than just cherry dip?”

So did you anticipate then that that would be a success? I remember the

photos you posted on twitter with lines for days outside the truck.

We didn’t anticipate anything! It was so crazy. We’ve been very gob-

smacked at times about it (in a good way) and we like having fun and all

these things keep it fun for us. Like coming [to Australia for the Melbourne

Food and Wine Festival], everything is a new adventure and a new learning

experience.

You’ve got three shops now; two in New York and one in Philadelphia. So

what have been the main differences between running an ice cream truck

and operating stores?

Um, It’s a lot more expensive. We did everything as cheaply as we really

could [with the truck] – we didn’t actually own it so we rented it on a daily

basis. Whereas every shop we opened cost about four times as much as the

previous one. And there are more expectations now – we have 50 employees

and they count on us and the decisions that we make to remain employed

and to remain in great work environments. So it’s a little less flexible.

We read our audiences much more closely now than we used to, and our

production is much greater than it used to be. As opposed to a couple of

zip lock bags of stuff on the truck, now it’s 25 gallons of whatever ingredient

and that costs money and you don’t wanna waste anything.

And I think we’ve realised what we do and don’t wanna do, the costs

involved, and the importance of kind of straddling that line and keeping

it fun but professional, listening to the audience while staying true to our

roots where we started. BGIC wouldn’t have existed and it wouldn’t be what

it is without the two of us. I think I kind of reign in Doug and Doug pulls

weirdness out of me, so there’s a nice push-pull going on there.

It definitely makes you realise that starting a business by yourself is ungodly

difficult and knowing that you can rely on somebody else who has the exact

same values and mindset is a really great thing because I don’t know how

people could do this stuff on their own.

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27

You’ve come to Melbourne a couple of times now - what keeps you coming

back?

Well you keep inviting us pretty much [laughs]. We like working with friends,

basically. We like our extended “Big Gay Family” – you know, [people and

chefs that] we’ve met on this journey, and people that get us and stick

around and really love what we do. It’s fun to be in a new sphere of influence.

There’s a lot of collaboration that goes on these days and it’s just great to

get your presence out there and to meet new people.

Yeah and I think for us it’s nice because you operate in a silo a lot, and you

don’t know what’s going on with your friends, and you don’t know what

s going on with the restaurant next door to you, because you’re just so

focused on your own work. So to be able to catch up with your friends and

to do it by working together on something, I think that’s a lot of fun.

So what’s your favourite classic Big Gay Ice Cream flavour?

My favourite ice cream [dessert] in general is hot fudge sundaes with

peanuts and whipped cream. I like our hot fudge a lot so just a very classic

[sundae]. I think both Doug and I are classics at heart; we both grew up with

a very traditional ice cream experience.

If I want something palate cleansing and clean, lemon sorbet would be the

opposite end of the spectrum. Either I need a refreshing fruity clean taste, or

if I just need to wallow in my tears than I’ll go the hot fudge route [laughs].

Did you enjoy working with Messina in Melbourne?

We were introduced to them through Good Food Month last time we were

here, and since you can’t import dairy into the country and there wasn’t

really time and space [for us] to make stuff [for the event], they put us

together so collaboration could happen.

It’s just kindred spirits, you know. I I’ve found that the people I met here in

the pastry world are much like us. They understand how fun pastries and

ice cream can be and how it’s okay to have fun. That was a big thing for us.

And when you’re working in a kitchen long hours, you’ve gotta be able to

have fun when you’re working so hard.

Exactly. And the last thing you should be smug about is ice cream. This is a

childhood comfort food. So when we came across and met people here like

the owners of Messina, and Katherine Sabbath who we met last time and

Andy Bowdy [pastry chef, Andy Bowdy Pastry and formerly Hartsyard]…

they’re great technically, you know, they know their shit, but they love having

fun with it too.

Ice cream should be fun. It’s the most fun food there is. And this is our idea

of fun and it’s Messina’s idea of fun and it’s Pierre’s [Ice Cream Company’s]

idea of fun. That’s why I think we like coming back here and I think we get a

great reception when we’re here. Because Australians like having fun.

BIG GAY ICE CREAM

biggayicecream.com

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Any hipster worth his hops knows that Melbourne is all about craft beer.

The last few years have seen a move away from the stock standard on-taps

and bottled imports to the more artisan ales, brewed and bottled just a

few ‘burbs over. One such Victorian craft brewery, Wolf of the Willows, has

earned a stellar reputation for its hand crafted, modern ales, each batch

produced from start to finish by Scotty and Renae McKinnon.

The husband and wife duo launched Wolf of the Willows in November

2014. Starting with an XPA – Extra Pale Ale, Scotty and Renae gypsy-

brewed for their first year, borrowing other people’s equipment to develop

their range, before teaming up with Bad Shepherd Brewing Co and setting

their roots in a Cheltenham. A fitting move for the couple, who have called

Bayside home for the last 15 years.

Scotty’s love of brewing started young, helping his dad brew homemade

ginger beer on his family’s property in rural Victoria. Years later, time

spent as a ski bum in Colorado gave Scotty an introduction to the world

of American craft brewing. This, he says, was followed by “many years of

perfecting beer recipes, growing hops on the family farm and of course,

plenty of ‘market research’”.

A sales and marketing gun, Renae made her start working late night

hospitality shifts (at a number of reputable restaurants and bars in

Melbourne and London, no less) before moving into events management

and wine marketing for a highly-regarded distribution company. With a

brain for business and a love of all things craft beer, launching Wolf of the

Willows was just “a natural progression” for Renae.

As for the inspiration behind the name, they say Scotty’s nerdy love for

beer history is to blame. “We loved the story about Pliny the Elder, a Roman

military man, naturalist and botanist, who was known to have named the

hop bine ‘Lupus Salictarius’...Latin for Wolf of the Willows.” The hop bine,

as the story goes, looked as if were trying to strangle and take down the

willow trees, much like a wolf would take down its prey.

This appreciation for history can be seen throughout the Wolf of the

Willows brewing process; Scotty and Renae use traditional craft brewing

techniques and “no bullshit rubbish additives and chemicals”, foregoing

the pasteurization process and giving the brews plenty of ferment and

conditioning time. The result? Exceptional crafts beers that, while staying

true to style, can often stray from the norm.

“Our ISA – India Saison is one that tends to push the boundaries,” Renae

explains. “While a standard Saison style does not have hops included, but

since our name is all about hops, why not put some in?” And why not,

indeed. Nelson hops gives the beer a wine-like, Sauvignon Blanc character,

with spicy berry nut and a refreshing hit of mango, passionfruit and tropical

fruits. Best paired with Asian and seafood style dishes, we’re told.

Their third brew, the JSP – Johnny Smoke Porter, is a different take on

the robust classic. Influenced by Scotty’s love of “nerdy beer history”, the

JSP – Johnny Smoke Porter is a historical throwback to what they believe

a traditional London Porter would have tasted like, back in the times when

open fire was used to malt barley. The end result is a firm malt profile that

is smoky yet balanced by sweetness on the palate. A go-to winter warmer.

Now settled in the their Cheltenham brewery, Scotty and Renae have had

time to work on more brews, recently releasing the final piece of their core

range puzzle, the IPA – India Pale Ale they call ‘Homage’, along with some

limited release beers.

So, what’s next for the brewing duo? Lots, it would appear. As part of Good

Beer Week, Wolf of the Willows have teamed up with famed Melbourne

chef Daniel Wilson for ‘Cooking with Craft Beer Master Class’. Held at

South Melbourne’s Urban Kitchen on May 17, guests will be taught how to

cook favourite dishes, all prepared with craft beer, before they cook and

consume their own three course fine dining creations. And, just to sweeten

the deal, the full range of Wolf of the Willows beers is included as part of

the experience, including rare and limited releases. Now we’ll cheers to

that.

WOLF OF THE WILLOWS

386 Reserve Road, Cheltenham

wolfofthewillows.com.au

facebook.com/wolfofthewillows | twitter.com/wolfofthewillow

instagram.com/wolfofthewillows

Search for ‘Wolf of the Willows’ on goodbeerweek.com.au for tickets to

the Cooking with Craft Beer Master Class

WORDS BY ELLA PLEASANT PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEAN SCHMIDEG

BAYSIDE BREWERYWOLF OF THE WILLOWS

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Take a trip to the dark side… and leave your car keys

behind

May the Fourth is both a great day for beer-loving Star

Wars nerds and the worst day for unfortunate souls

hoping to hide their speech impediment.

Some seriously cool beers have appeared over the last

few years, the most well-known being Holgate’s Millenium

Falcon Triple IPA, and this year the guys from the Jedi

Temple in Brunswick East have paid homage to everything

alluring about the dark side.

Head Brewer, Glenn Harrison is a devout dark beer

worshipper, yet it’s his passion for absolute balance in the

Force that shines through with this particular beer. I can’t

help but think this is his New World Order American Stout

after a solid three week training session on Dagobah.

I had a chat with Temple’s intergalactic beer smuggler,

Simon Frake about their Bold New World. “We just had

to make a beer for Star Wars Day. The ‘Imperial’ just

represents the Stormtroopers who are misunderstood

dudes in white plastic with a seriously bad boss, that

would fall down during battles without any apparent

injuries. May the Fourth is just transcendentally cool. ”

What Simon was trying to say is Bold New World presents

a jet black appearance with a sexy coffee-coloured head,

a moderate level of carbonation and roasted, chocolate

flavour that compliments the dried fruit aroma and 10%

alcohol beautifully.

Don’t restrict this beer to a beer glass however. Frake

continues, “it is a serious beer, but can be treated as a bit

of fun too. Bold New World poured over vanilla ice cream

is like the Eton Mess equivalent in all the finest Death Star

venues. Coming in to the Victorian Autumn season, there’s

nothing better than an earthy, warming monster stout.”

Brewing beer this good isn’t like dusting crops boy, this

beer is seriously Empire Strikes Back good. As Yoda

would say, “When 10% alcohol you reach, taste as good it

will not, hmm?!”

Bold New World is a strictly limited release, out on May 4

at selected venues around Victoria. Be quick, it will go fast!

ABV: 10%

STYLE: Imperial Stout

SERVING TEMP: 6-8 degrees

FOOD PAIRING: Womp Rat

ORIGIN: 122 Weston St, East Brunswick

REVIEWS

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGON

TEMPLE BOLD NEW WORLD IMPERIAL STOUT

When leaving a sour taste is a good thing!

Holgate have been around since 1999 and in some ways

have been a victim of their own sure and steady approach.

Brewing outstanding ales over a long period of time in a

rapidly expanding industry with new breweries opening

around Australia every week has seen the Holgate team

get drowned out from time to time thanks to deafening

white noise in a crowded market.

But it’s with beers like their latest limited release, a

Flanders style Wild Red Ale, that reminds everyone just

how innovative and on-trend Holgate Brewhouse can be,

capacity allowing of course.

The Holgate brew team have been relentless in letting

owner Paul know of their desire to produce a complex

beer such as a Flanders Sour, a style of beer native to the

Flanders in Belgium where lactic acid is used along with an

extended aging period in oak barrels, red malt for colour

and blended with one or more younger versions of itself.

In some respects, the Wild Red Ale is the crowning glory

derived from many recent releases such as the 2014

Midnight Cowboy Project (Sour Cherry Porter), the Little

Red Riding Wood mixed ferment and the early 2015 release

of the kettle-soured Hop Tart, a semi-sour pale ale.

Wine lovers take note - this beer is for those that adore and

admire complexity and a refreshing finish. Both a sipping,

savouring beer and a food beer. Available from selected

stockists around Victoria. Hurry, only 1,200 bottles available!

It gets better. Holgate’s new Keepers Guild means you can

become a member and receive super exclusive small batch

brews like this one delivered straight to your door. Just get

on to the website and punch in your details! Cheers!

ABV: 6%

STYLE: Flanders Style Sour Ale

SERVING TEMP: 6 degrees

ORIGIN: Woodend, Victoria

PRICE (RRP): $20 (750ml)

BUY IT HERE: www.holgatebrewhouse.com.au

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY ON THE BANDWAGONHOLGATE WILD RED ALE

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B E N D I G Oon the hop

20 AUGUST28 BREWERIES, 56 BEERS, NO WINE, NO CIDER

tickets on sale from 1 june

www.bendigobeer.com

Showcasing the best of Australia’s independent breweries

Page 32: Gram ISSUE 61 // May 2016

When discussing coffee varieties you often hear the

words Arabica and Robusta mentioned. Arabica

beans are known for a sweeter, smoother flavour

profile while Robusta is what gives you intensity and a

hefty hit of caffeine. Over recent years it has become

popular for blends to be 100% Arabica, with Robusta

seen to be harsher and often inferior. But what if there

was another variety, completely different, bringing

together the best of both worlds? Almost like a blend

in one bean.

Four years ago, four Aussie soldiers stationed in East

Timor as part of a peace keeping mission discovered

something wild and mysterious, a hybrid coffee in the

jungle planted over 200 years ago by the Portuguese

and left neglected under Indonesian rule. Over time

the plants combined creating this organic hybrid

which grows pesticide free in the mountain regions

around Timor-Leste. Without common diseases and

pests which normally affect the coffee, the beans

also don’t need to be chemically treated before

importation.

Known simply as Wild Timor Coffee, this is not a brew

for the faint hearted. It is dark and intense, earthy and

woody, yet still bright. Single origin maybe, but rich

and multi layered with a boldness that befits a coffee

from this tiny nation who have fought fiercely for their

independence. Employing ethical and sustainable

practices, the boys wanted to give back to the villages

and farmers to ensure they benefit from this beautiful

product and the growing success of the coffee in

Australia. Most notable is the Wild Water Project

which has recently resulted in the building of a water

tank in the village of Belumuhato in the area where the

coffee grows, which now means the inhabitants don’t

need to travel up to 10 kilometres each day for fresh

drinking water. Most often it is the women and children

who make the trip, preventing them from going to

school and their mothers from being able to grow and

irrigate the crops. There is also a high mortality rate

amongst children there who have limited access to

water, so these facilities will make a huge difference to

the lives of those who reside there.

One cup of each coffee sold results in one litre of clean

drinking water for those in need and while we may not

think about it when we order our daily caffeine hit, it is

clean water which is also required to make our coffee,

something we often take for granted. So if you want

to be a part of this social project, buy the beans online

or just go to one of these cafes and order an awesome

coffee and see if you’re as wild about it as I am.

REVIEWS

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG

WILD TIMOR COFFEE CO.

Wild Timor Coffee - 282 Sydney Road, CoburgWild Timor Coffee - 251 Faraday Street, CarltonThe Espressionist - 100 Lorimer Street, DocklandsGioia Mia - 217-239 Montague Street, South MelbourneCaffe Strada - 197 Upper Heidelberg, Ivanhoe

HERE ARE A FEW CAFES WHERE YOU CAN ENJOY WILD TIMOR -

Cooked: Food for Friends is all about sharing; 100

dishes, all delicious, and many of which you can whip

up fast. Across eight chapters, the book presents

ideas for: backyard grill; impromptu dinners; brunch;

picnics; drinks parties; high tea; and the ultimate

Sunday roast spread. Packed full of recipes from over

40 of Australia’s favourite chefs and cooks, there is

sure to be something to suit everyone’s tastes.

The book includes everything you need to satisfy

your friends, from impressive dishes you can conjure

in minutes, such as Antonio Carluccio’s luscious

zabaglione with bitter chocolate sauce, to spectacular

feasts for the senses, like Paul Wilson’s sweetcorn

French toast with pancetta and avocado or Luke

Nguyen’s crisp silken tofu in lemongrass to home

comforts with a twist including Alain Ducasse’s roast

chicken, Mark Best’s stunning orange and polenta

cake, or Margaret Fulton’s canapé saviours, piroshki.

Whatever the occasion, inspiration for your next

gathering starts with Cooked: Food for Friends.

HARDIE GRANT BOOKS RRP $24.99

COOKED - FOOD FOR FRIENDS100 sensational recipes by more than 40 top cooks and chefs

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33

I was a big Kath & Kim fan back in the day. I always thought that

if they were able to get past their love of drinking Car-don-nay

(aka Chardonnay) then maybe their next favourite wine would be

one that had a similar ring to it, or at least one that rhymed with

Kim’s daughter’s name, Epponnee-Rae. Introducing Gamay (you

can picture Kath saying it too, can’t you?).

Back on track, Farr Rising is the reputable wine brand crafted

by winemaker Nick Farr in the Bannockburn area of Geelong.

You’ve got to be delicate with a grape like Gamay, so Nick uses

whole bunch fermentation to kick-start a brighter red fruit

aroma spectrum followed by maturation in old barrels. The result

is a wine with a definitive carbonic nose of wild strawberry,

peppercorn, pomegranate and a hint of kola nut. There is plenty

of juicy acidity to keep your lips smacking, complemented with

a savoury undertone of forest floor and delicate earthy tannins.

While it is often touted that Gamay is the perfect lunchtime wine,

I broke tradition and enjoyed it with a light roast dinner with just

as much pleasure.

STOCKIST: Direct from the Farr Winery website or ask at your

local wine store

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY LA DONNA DEL VINO

FARR RISING GAMAY 2015 Geelong, Victoria. RRP: $38

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BARD/UP

COOKIE // CBD - BAR/D UP VIDEO FEATUREIn collaboration with Wolf of the Willows Brewing

You can’t live in Melbourne and not know about Cookie. And if you don’t then you do now.

There’s no going back once you’ve climbed the stairs to Level 1 in Curtin House and through

the door into this wonderland. A beer hall, eating house and disco, it’s a magical space that

does many things and does them well. The walls and shelves are covered with bottles of

beautiful alcohol and well-worn children’s books, many of them classics lit gently by flickering

candlelight giving this large venue a very cozy feel. It’s like being in the best library ever!

Sit in the restaurant and order amazing Thai food from the extensive menu, grab a few

quality craft brews from the equally huge beer list and be a part of the frenetic atmosphere

around you. If you’re lucky a table on one of the Juliet balconies may be available and you

can sit outside and get a bird’s eye view of the surrounding city. For a slightly more intimate

experience, pop around into the back bar and watch the experts craft their cocktails, with

Cookie being home to many award winning bartenders over years this place has been in

existence.

It’s an institution, a hive of activity, a place where the smells of tasty Asian food waft through

the air tantalising your senses and most importantly a bar that prides itself on quality

beverages and service. There’s not much more to say. This is Cookie.

HEAD TO BARDUP.COM.AU TO CHECK OUT THE VIDEO.

INSTAGRAM - @bardupmelb

FACEBOOK - facebook.com/bardupmelb

COOKIE

First Level, Curtin House, 252 Swanston Street

Melbourne

9663 7660

cookie.net.au

facebook.com/Cookie.Melb

instagram.com/cookiemelbourne

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OUT AND ABOUTUNION DINING / THREE RIVERS LUNCH

Last month Chef Nicky Riemer of Union Dining in Richmond together with Three Rivers Specialty Meats created a menus with matching wines that truly highlighted the beautiful lamb from this single estate farm north of Echuca. The animals graze on native Old Man Saltbush plants over the summer and autumn

months producing a tender and sweet meat which is just delicious. Key dishes included a saltbush lamb shank bastilla followed by a lamb shoulder braise with golden roasted beetroot, white bean ragu, salsa verde and saltbush, finishing with an amazing Earl Grey panna cotta with fresh fig and poached rhubarb for dessert.

POW KITCHEN LAUNCH St  Kilda’s  mightiest  mezzanine,  the  Bandroom  Balcony  at  Prince  Of  Wales,  has  bounced  into  Southern Asian sub- terrain. Give a disco ‘herro’ to POW Kitchen. This oriental overturn, which sees the plus-sized POW personality infused with Southern Asian soul, spells

Summer flings with Singapore Slings, sunset sessions with vinyl concessions, and club nights with flavour- full bites. Authentic flavours from broad-stroke Southern Asia. Curb- side prices. A passport- proud (aka. plenty) selection of beers on tap, cocktails and wine. Bandroom-boom entertainment…

PHOTOGRAPHY DEAN SCHMIDEG

PHOTOGRAPHY RICK LISTON PHOTOGRAPHY

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THE DIARY13 - 22 May, 2016GOOD BEER WEEKMelborune

The sixth annual Good Beer Week will return to Australia’s craft beer capital for nine days of froth-filled celebrations. 270 events will run across more then 150 venues in Melbourne and Victoria. For the first time, there will be a Good Beer Week App to assist punters on their craft beer adventures. The App lets you view the program and purchase tickets as well as offering guided maps to venues. This year’s program is overflowing with live music events taking place across town: think Northcote Social Club, Cherry Bar, Old Bar, the Rochie, the Great Britain Hotel, the Catfish and more. Highlights include a tribute to The Boss with a Bruce Springsteen themed event. For a slightly more refined take on live music, look no further than the St. Stephen’s Anglican Church for a one-off opera event. You can bet your beer-filled bonnet that foodies will be well catered for with GBW fixtures such as Mega Dega – this year the event will be held at The Craft & Co and feature a new set of all-star chef and brewer teams. Other sought after destinations taking part in the Foodie stream include the renowned degustation at Vue De Monde, The Roving Marrow at The Astor and Brighton’s Half Moon. Beer and spirit pairing is another strong theme in this year’s program, with Gin being the newest beer pairing friend. There will be a gin and hops master-class and a gin, beer and food pairing dinner. Cocktail masters Eau-de-Vie are back this year creating a new selection of cocktails made with beer.

Rest assured this beer fest isn’t just dominated by beards: a number of events champion the women of the industry and empower women beer professionals to advance their careers in the beer industry through education. International brewers will also flock to Melbourne in May; there will be the chance to meet brew-master Steve Wagner from San Diego based Stone Brewing Co. Other international guests include Brew Dog from Scotland, Palm and Rodenbach breweries from Belgium, Coedo from Japan and Ducato from Italy. Locally, Balter Brewing will make a first time appearance at the festival; the new brewery is based on the Gold Coast and owned by surfers Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Bede Durbidge and Josh Kerr. Since the festivals inception, Good Beer Week’s central aim is to promote good beer and the community and culture that surround it. The festival is achieving this goal with an audience that continues to grow and become more diverse. For the second year, Beer DeLuxe at Federation Square will serve as the festival’s hub with a series of their own fantastic events. Good Beer Week 2016 is an independent and not-for-profit festival that overall celebrates and promotes the renaissance that craft beer is enjoying globally.

For the full program and ticket sales, go togoodbeerweek.com.au

May 28, 2016OYSTER FEAST FUNDRAISER FOR 5CENT The Neff Market Kitchen - Stall 90, Cecil Street, South Melbourne

Feast of Merit is throwing its doors open for a one-night only Oyster Feast! Join us and support YGAP’s 5cent campaign, giving children improved access to a quality education. Monday 9 May @ 7pm

Enjoy an all-you-can-eat Oyster Feast. $45 p.p

Bubbles on arrival.

5cent cocktail with all proceeds supporting 5cent campaign

Special guest appearance by Lua Lua

Limited tickets so get in quick to reserve your place! More info please contact [email protected]

May 28, 2016PORK, FLAME AND PINOTThe Deck at The Prince 2 Acland Street, St. Kilda6.30pm - late

Pulled, belly up, ribbed or classic crackling – however you like it, join us for an evening revelling all things flaming hog, live music and pinot.

Indulge in some of Victorian’s finest free-range pork from Pork + Pinot connoisseur William Downie, as the Deck transforms into a smoky, ruckus fiesta with handpicked pancetta that bellows, cracks and saps over a flaming asado. Caution: continuous smoke inhalation may increase salivation.

Four distinct Melbourne Pub Group kitchens will carefully select and carve their chosen meat to produce a finger lickin’ dish, complemented perfectly by their paired pinot producer.

It’s dish vs. dish, pinot vs. pinot in a dog pig eat dog pig world. The only winners on the night will be a deck full of happy porkers and pinot punters.

Asian sensation POW Kitchen teams up with Mac Forbes, whiles Tex-Mex Acland St Cantina joins forces with Barnaby Flanders form Garagiste. The decedent Circa kitchen collaborates with Garry Mills from Jamsheed, with the pièce de resistance of the night – our primiative pork spit, seasons to perfection and paired perfectly with William Downie’s own Pinot.

Drooling yet? You’ll be as happy as a pig in pinot if you snap up one of these tickets.

$55 | 4 dishes, one from each vendor with matched winemonthoftheprince.com.au

29 May 2016ITALIAN WINE + FOOD FESTIVAL - MELBOURNERoyal Exhibition Building, Carlton Gardens

Everything that’s good about eating and drinking in Italy comes together under one roof with the first ever Melbourne edition of the Italian Wine + Food Festival. Taste 200 of Italy’s finest wines (including Italian-centric Aussie wines), meet winemakers and importers, including Luca Currado from legendary Piedmont winery Vietti. Wine masterclasses are hosted by Max Allen, sommelier Rocco Esposito hosts Plumm Italian Wine Workshops, or take a Sommelier Tour with one of Melbourne’s finest.

Meet chefs Johnny di Francesco (400 Gradi), Rosa Mitchell (Rosa’s Canteen + Rosa’s Kitchen), Nino Zoccali (Sydney’s Pendolino), Paolo Masciopinto (Sarti), Carmine Costantini (Osteria La Passione), Luca Flammia + Francesco Rota (Trattoria Emilia) and David Dellai (Il Bacaro). Expect food from 400 Gradi, 38 Chairs, Caterina’s Cucina e Bar, La Bonta, Bar Idda and Saluministi. Stock up at the food market featuring Pidapipo Gelato, Floridia Cheese, Pasta Classica, Books for Cooks and sweets by Dolcetti.

www.italianwinefoodfestival.com.au

May 22, 2016STREET FEUDThe Deck at The Prince 2 Acland Street, St. Kilda | 12pm$55 - 6 dishes, one from each competiting vendor

Who serves Melbourne’s best street food? At this sticky finger food festival, Street Feud sees the public scoff and score Melbourne’s favourite sidewalk eats.MENU

8bit.Mini Double Dragon Burger

Acland St CantinaSpiced Lamb + Pumpkin Quesadilla

Gelato MessinaShhh... It’s a surprise

POW KitchenCha-ca Skewers

Rice Paper ScissorsMUU KROBB “Sticky Pork Belly”

Tokyo TinaKarage Chicken Bao

Who will take out this year’s trophy? You decide.

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