History of rock climbingAlthough the practice of rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in at least three areas: Elbsandsteingebirge, in Saxony near Dresden [1], the Lake District of England [2], and the Dolomites in Italy [3]. Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to an athletic sport in its own right, making it imprudent to cite a primogenitor of the latter in each of these three locales. Nevertheless, there is some general agreement on the following:

Heralded as a sport in England in the late 1880s after the (well publicised) solo first ascent of the Napes Needle by Walter Parry Haskett Smith, rock climbing attracted increasing numbers of participants. An early benchmark approaching modern levels of difficulty was the ascent, by O. G. Jones, of Kern Knotts Crack (VS) in 1897. Jones was attracted to the new sport by a photo of the Needle in a shop window in the early 1890s. By the end of the Victorian era as many as 60 enthusiasts at a time would gather at the Wastwater Hotel in the Lake District during vacation periods [4].

Inspired by the efforts of late 19th century pioneers such as Oskar Schuster (Falkenstein, Schusterweg 1892), by 1903 there were approximately 500 climbers active in the Elbsandstein region, including the well-known team of Rudolf Fehrmann and the American, Oliver Perry-Smith; their 1906 ascent of Teufelsturm (at VIIb) set new standards of difficulty. By the 1930s there were over 200 small climbing clubs represented in the area [1].

The solo first ascent of Die Vajolettürme in 1887 by the 17 year-old Munich high school student, Georg Winkler, encouraged the acceptance and development of the sport in the Dolomites[3].

As rock climbing matured, a variety of grading systems were created in order to more accurately compare relative difficulties of climbs. Over the years both climbing techniques and the equipment climbers use to advance the sport have evolved in a steady fashion.

Some historical benchmarks

400 BC: Chinese watercolours that depict men climbing rocks.

1300's : The Anasazis in the southwest United States drilled holes for posts and carved steps up the steep rock cliffs in Chaco Canyon. There are cliff dwellings scattered throughout the southwest. Given the difficult approaches to some of these cliff dwellings it seems reasonable to assume that the natives had the skills necessary to ascend what would now be considered technical climbing terrain.

1492 : Antoine de Ville ascends Mont Inaccessible, Mont Aiguille, a 300 meter rock tower south of Grenoble, France. Under orders from his king, he used the techniques developed for sieging castles to attain an otherwise unreachable summit. The ascent is described by François Rabelais in his Quart Livre.[5]

1695 : Martin Martin describes the traditional practice of fowling by climbing with the use of ropes in the Hebrides of Scotland, especially on St Kilda.[6]

1786 : The first ascent of Mont Blanc is often referred to as the start of mountaineering’s “modern era”. It took another century before history documents the use of devices similar to today’s fixed anchors: pitons, bolts and rappel slings.

By the 1800s, climbing was developing as a recreational pastime. Equipment in the early 1800s began with an alpenstock (a large walking stick with a metal tip), a primitive form of three- point instep crampon, and a woodcutter's axe. These were the tools of the alpine

shepherd, who was shortly to move from guiding sheep to guiding men, a much more lucrative enterprise. With time the alpenstock and the axe were combined into one tool: the ice-axe. Add a large, thick (and weak) rope, to help the client climb, and guide and novice were off to the mountains.[5]

1869 : John Muir, famed naturalist and climber, wearing hiking boots, makes the first ascent of Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows as an on-sight, free solo. He is also known for spending a night at the top of a 100+ foot tall pine tree during a lightning storm, now known as the John Muir Tree.[7][8]

1875 : Half Dome in Yosemite National Park is first climbed by George Anderson. He uses eye bolts in drilled holes as hand and toe holds. He uses a fixed rope to return to his high point each day.[9][7][8]

1880s : The Sport of Rock Climbing begins in the Lake District and Wales in Great Britain , Saxony near Dresden, and the Dolomites. W. P. Haskett Smith is frequently called the Father of Rock Climbing in the British Isles, and Oskar Schuster was an early climber at Elbsandsteingebirge.

1886 : W. P. Haskett Smith makes the first ascent (in free solo style) of the 70 foot Napes Needle, in the Lake District of England. The resulting publicity introduces the general British public to the new sport of rock climbing.

1887 : Georg Winkler, at the age of 17, makes the first ascent - solo - of Die Vajolettürme in the Dolomites, initiating the sport of rock climbing in that area.

1892 : Oscar Eckenstein, a British climber, conducts a bouldering competition, with cash prizes, among the natives while on an expedition to the Karakoram Mountains. ([1]).

1893 : Devils Tower is first summited by ranchers William Rogers and Willard Ripley through the use of wooden spike pounded into a crack and then connected with a rope. After 6 weeks they summited on the Fourth of July.[10][7]

1897 : O. G. Jones leads Kern Knotts Crack (ca 5.8) on the Great Gable in England

1900 (approximately) : Oscar Eckenstein demonstrates to British climbers the concept of modern balance climbing on his eponymous boulder in Wales. ([2])

1906 : Oliver Perry-Smith, W. Huenig, Rudolf Fehrmann climb Teufelsturm in the Elbsandsteingebirge, 5.10 (with original shoulder stand around 5.8+).

1910 : Hans Fiechtl replaces the attached ring on pitons with an eye in the body of the piton which is a design used to this day.[5]

1910 : Otto Herzog designs the first steel carabiner, specifically made for climbing.[5]

1910 : Austrian development of rappelling.[5]

1910 : Oliver Perry-Smith, M. Matthaeus, H. Wagner ascend The Grosser Falknerturm, W. Route in the Elbsandstein, 5.9.

1910 to 1914 : Hans Dülfer suggests using equipment to ascend otherwise unclimbable rock, devises dulferitz rappelling technique.[5]

1914 : Paul Preuss, an advocate of Free climbing, coins the term "artificial aid" to describe the use of mechanical aids to progress up a rock. His rule number four (of six) stated: "The piton is an emergency aid and not the basis of a system of mountaineering."[5]

Note: The two principal uses of pitons on an ascent were as protective safeguards (not used for actual hand or footholds - climbers refrained from putting weight on them except in the event of a fall) and as direct aid (used to physically assist in ascending a steep or overhanging slope rather than merely as protection). Climbers like Paul Preuss and Geoffrey Winthrop Young argued strongly against direct aid, but others of that era, including Hans Dülfer and Tita Piaz, advocated using such devices as artificial aids in order to climb otherwise unscalable walls. After World War I most European climbers chose to employ artificial aid when necessary. However, from the beginning days of rock climbing as a sport, through the 1940s, another form of artificial assistance was at times employed by teams of two or more climbers: the shoulder stand. From our current perspective it seems odd that many of those climbers who strenuously objected to hanging on a piton found the shoulder stand to be quite acceptable. Occasionally, historical climbing photos, (e.g., [3]) illustrate this strategy, which arose from the perception that ascending a route was a team effort, with two climbers constituting one natural climbing unit. Something to keep in mind when reading of very early climbs in the 5.8 to 5.10 range.

1914 : Siegfried Herford and companions climb the Flake Pitch on Central Buttress of Scafell (5.9), England's hardest climb at the time

1919 : Sees the publication of Guido Rey’s book, "Alpinisme Acrobatique", on the "artificial" techniques utilizing the latest, easily available pitons and carabiners

1920s - 1930s : Robert L. M. Underhill and Miriam Underhill (Miriam E. O'Brien) - One of the early rock star climbing couples. Robert is remembered for introducing European climbing techniques to the west coast of the US through an article in the 1931 Bulletin of the Sierra Club.

1922 : Paul Illmer and party ascend the Illmerweg on Falkenstein (5.9/5.10), Elbsandstein

1923 : Willo Welzenbach creates the standard numerical rating system for the amount of time typically needed to complete a route (Grades I to VI) [5]

1925 : Solleder and Gustl Lettenbauer climb the Northwest Face of the Civetta in a day, a 3800 foot 5.9 route in the Dolomites, using only 15 pitons for protection and belays.

1925 : Albert Ellingwood and a party of three climb the 2000 foot Northeast Buttress of Crestone Needle (5.7, 14,197 feet).

1927 : Laurent Grivel designs and sells the first rock drill and expansion bolt. [5]

1927 : Joe Stettner and brother, Paul, apply European techniques in the USA on their ascent of the Stettner Ledges on the East Face of Long's Peak. [7][8]

1927 : Fred Pigott's experiments with slinging natural chockstones and later machine nuts, for protection at Clogwyn Du'r Arddu on Snowdon, directly led to the development of the modern Stopper.[5]

1930 : Jack Longland climbs Javelin Blade (5.10), Hollytree Wall, Idwal

1931 : Emilio Comici and the Dolomites. Comici is the inventor and proponent of using multi-step aid ladders, solid belays, the use of a trail/tag line, and hanging bivouacs. Pretty much the origin of big wall climbing and techniques. He uses them to good purpose with an ascent of the 26 pitch, 4000 foot Northwest Face of the Civetta.[5]

1934 : Pierre Allain champions bouldering at Fontainebleau; climbs L'Angle Allain (V2)

1934 : Dick Leonard, teams up with Jules Eichorn and Bestor Robinson for the first ascent of the Eichorn Pinnacle of Cathedral Peak in the Sierra Nevada. He also creates the concept and practice of the dynamic belay at Indian Rock. [7]

1935 : Pierre Allain produces first soft-soled climbing shoe. Revised for extreme rock 1948

1938 : Ricardo Cassin ascends the Walker Spur of the Grandes Jorasses "...perhaps the finest in existence" - Gaston Rebuffat from "The Mont Blanc Massif - The 100 Finest Routes".

1938 : North Face of the Eiger ascended by Heinrich Harrer, Fritz Kasparek, Andreas Heckmair and Wiggerl Vörg.

1939 : David Brower and the rest of his Berkeley crew use four bolts in the process of ascending Ship Rock in New Mexico. [7][8]

1940s : World War II leads to the development of inexpensive army surplus pitons, carabiners and the newly-invented nylon rope.[5]

1946 : Rene Ferlet climbs Marie-Rose (V3) Fontainebleau

1946 : John Salathe, at the age of 46, attempts to rope-solo aid the first ascent of the Lost Arrow Spire, one of the most exposed features in Yosemite Valley. (The protection bolt he places on that attempt was the first, or one of the first, in the valley.) He is also known for his forged pitons made from the axle of a Model A Ford. [7][8]

1952 : Lionel Terray ascends the Patagonian peak, Monte Fitz Roy, with his partner Guido Magnone.

1952 : Joe Brown makes the FA of Cenotaph Corner (5.10) Dinas Cromlech, Wales

1952 : John Streetly makes the FA of Bloody Slab (5.9) Llanberis Pass, Wales

1953 : Robert Paragot climbs Le Joker (V5) Fontainebleau

1954 : Joe Brown and Don Whillans climb the West Face of Aiguille de Blaitiere, including the famous Fissure Brown (5.11), in the Alps.

1955 : Walter Bonatti Considered one of the greatest climbs of all time, his solo first ascent of a new route on the Southwest Pillar of the Dru takes six days.

1955 : John Gill introduces chalk & modern dynamics; first V8 (1957), V9 (1959) ; freesolos FA Thimble overhang (5.12a) (1961) [7][11] [12]

1957 : Layton Kor appears in the climbing community of Colorado and gains recognition as a notable climber. Makes landmark ascents, including Redguard, The Bulge, T2, Naked Edge, X-M, and the Yellow Wall. Kor is noted as one of the key forces behind the progression of climbing in the west.[7]

1958 : Warren Harding and team climb the 3,000 foot Nose of El Capitan using siege tactics, taking a total of 45 days over an extended period. Almost entirely aid climbing, with many bolts (125), the climb is given world-wide recognition.

1961 : Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, and Tom Frost ascend the 3,000 foot Salathe Wall on El Capitan. Continuous ascent by Robbins & Frost in 1962, [13].

1964 : Robbins, Pratt, Frost, and Yvon Chouinard climb the North American Wall on El Capitan, [13]

1967 : Pete Cleveland climbs Superpin in the Black Hills (5.11X) [7]

1968 : Royal Robbins solos the Muir Wall on El Capitan, [13]

1971 : Al Rouse climbs Positron (5.11) Gogarth, Anglesey

1971 : Tom Frost and Yvon Chouinard design Hexcentrics. [7]

1974 - 1977 : Jim Holloway establishes - in Colorado - the hardest bouldering problems in the world, at the time. These include Slapshot (V13) and Meathook (V11), [11] [12]

1976 : John Bachar initiates an era of free soloing with his ascent of New Dimensions 5.11a [7]

1977 : Pete Cleveland climbs Phlogiston, at Devil's Lake, 5.13a/b or V9 [7]

1978 : Ray Jardine invents the first modern spring loaded camming device (SLCD or cam)

1979 : Tony Yaniro climbs Grand Illusion, Sugarloaf (CA), 5.13b/c [7]

1970s : Sport Climbing is developed, in France

1980 : Boreal introduces the first "sticky rubber" shoe, the Fire

1980 : Bill Price climbs Cosmic Debris, Yosemite, 5.13b[7]

1983 : Alan Watts introduces sport climbing to the US, with Tots, 5.12b at Smith Rock, Oregon [7]

1985 : Wolfgang Gullich climbs Punks in the Gym, Mt. Arapiles, (some say the first 5.14a/b some say 5.13d)

1986 : Antoine Le Menestral climbs La Rage de Vivre, Buoux, (many credit this as the first 5.14a) [12]

1987 : Wolfgang Gullich climbs Wallstreet, Frankenjura, 5.14b

1990 : Ben Moon climbs Hubble, Raven Tor, 5.14c

1991 : Wolfgang Gullich climbs Action Directe, Frankenjura, the first 5.14d / 9a / 11

1992 : John Middendorf and Xaver Bongard climb The Grande Voyage, in 18 days on the world's tallest sheer rock face, Great Trango Tower, Karakoram, considered the hardest big wall climb in the world. 5.10+,A4+,WI4

1994 : Lynn Hill makes the first free climbing ascent of the 3,000 foot Nose Route of El Capitan (~5.13). Although there had been many ascents of The Nose, none had been done entirely without artificial aid. For years this had been the most coveted goal in the world of rock climbing. [7]

1995 : Fred Rouhling climbs Akira, Charente, ~5.15

1998 : Bernabe Fernandes climbs Orujo, Malaga, ~5.15

2001 : Chris Sharma climbs Realization, Ceuse, 5.15a [14]

2003 : Ramón Julián climbs La Rambla (climb), 5.15a

2006 : Chris Sharma climbs "Es Pontas" in Mallorca, Spain, a free-solo over deep water, assigning a grade of ~5.15, Dave MacLeod climbs Rhapsody in Dumbarton, assigning a grade of E11 7a .

2007 : Dani Andrada climbs "Ali Hulk Direct" in Rodellar, Spain, claiming a grade of 5.15b

2008 : Chris Sharma climbs "Jumbo Love" on Clark Mountain, California, claiming a grade of 5.15b

Glossary of climbing termsA

American death triangle An anchor which is created by connecting a closed loop of cord or webbing between two points of protection, and then suspending the rope from a carabiner clipped to only one strand of said anchor. This creates a triangular shape in the webbing or cord, which places massively multiplied inward forces on the protection, making it a dangerous, ineffective anchor.

Abalakov thread A type of abseiling point used especially in winter and ice climbing. Also called as V-thread.

Ablation zone The area of a glacier where yearly melting meets or exceeds the annual snow fall.

Abseil The process by which a climber can descend a fixed rope. Also known as Rappel.

ACR (Alpine Cock Ring)An anchor method similar to a cordelette but that is dynamically equalizing. It employs a cord and a rappel ring.

Adze A thin blade mounted perpendicular to the handle on an ice axe that can be used for chopping footholds.

Alpine start To make an efficient start on a long climb by packing all your gear the previous evening and starting early in the morning, usually well before sunrise.

Altitude sickness A medical condition that is often observed at high altitudes. Also known as Acute mountain sickness, or AMS.[1]

Anchor An arrangement of one or (usually) more pieces of gear set up to support the weight of a belay or top rope.

Approach The path or route to the start of a technical climb. Although this is generally a walk or, at most, a scramble it is occasionally as hazardous as the climb itself.

Arête 1. A small ridge-like feature on a steep rock face2. Arête, a narrow ridge of rock formed by glacial erosion3. A method of indoor climbing, in which one is able to use such a corner as a hold. See also dihedral.

Ascend To complete a route or problem.

Ascender A device for ascending on a rope.

ATC A proprietary belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. ATC stands for air traffic controller.

Atomic belay A quick method for setting up a two-point anchor in sport climbing, using the climbing rope to attach to the anchor points.

B

"B"-grade A grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Gill. Now largely superseded by the "V" grading system.

Bachar ladder 

A piece of training equipment used to improve campusing and core strength.Back-clipping 

A potentially hazardous mistake that can be made while lead climbing. The rope is clipped into a quickdraw such that the leader's end runs underneath the quickdraw as opposed to over top of it. If the leader falls, the rope may fold directly over the gate causing it to open and release the rope from the carabiner.

Bail To retreat from a climb.

Barn-door If a climber has only two points of contact using either the right or left side of his body, the other half may swing uncontrollably out from the wall like a door on a hinge.

Bashie A copperhead intended for pounding into a crack

Belay To protect a roped climber from falling by passing the rope through, or around, any type of friction enhancing belay device. Before belay devices were invented, the rope was simply passed around the belayer's hips to create friction.

Belay device A mechanical device used to create friction when belaying by putting bends in the rope. Many types of belay device exist, including ATC, grigri, Reverso, Sticht plate, eight and tuber. Some belay devices may also be used as descenders. A Munter hitch can sometimes be used instead of a belay device.

Belay slave Someone that volunteers for, or is tricked into, repeated belaying duties without partaking in any of the actual climbing.

Bergschrund (or schrund)A crevasse that forms on the upper portion of a glacier where the moving section pulls away from the headwall. Also called a 'shrund.

Beta Advice and/or instructions on how to successfully complete a particular climbing route, boulder problem, or crux sequence.

Beta flash The clean ascent of a climb on the first attempt, having previously obtained beta or while having beta shouted up from the ground en route. Also see on-sight.

Biner  See Carabiner.

Bivy (or bivvy)From the French "bivouac". A camp, or the act of camping, overnight while still on a climbing route off the ground. May involve nothing more than lying down or sitting on a rock ledge without any sleeping gear. When there is no rock ledge available, such as on a sheer vertical wall, a portaledge that hangs from anchors on the wall can be used.

Bivy-bag A lightweight garment or sack offering full-body protection from wind and rain.

Bollard A large knob of rock or ice used as a belay anchor.

Bolt A point of protection permanently installed in a hole drilled into the rock, to which a metal hanger is attached, having a hole for a biner or ring.

Bolt chopping The deliberate and destructive removal of one or more bolts.

Bomb-proof anchor A totally secure anchor. Also known as bomber.

Bouldering The practice of climbing on large boulders. Typically this is close to the ground, so protection takes the form of crash pads and spotting instead of belay ropes.

Bridging see Steming

Bucket A large handhold.

Bummer 

A slang word, used usually to describe a nasty little hold, in sense of nasty like tearing the finger skin very badly or something like this.

Bump To quickly move up a hand or a foot a small distance from one useful hold to another.

Buildering The art of climbing on buildings, which is often illegal.

Buttress A prominent feature that juts out from a rock or mountain.

C

Cairn A distinctive pile of stones placed to designate a summit or mark a trail, often above the treeline.

Cams A spring-loaded device used as protection.

Campus The act of climbing without using any feet.

Campus board Training equipment used to build finger strength and strong arm lock-offs.

Carabiner Metal rings with spring-loaded gates, used as connectors. Also known as crab or biner (pronounced beaner).

Chalk A compound used to improve grip by absorbing sweat. It is actually gymnastics chalk, usually magnesium carbonate. Its use is controversial in some areas.

Chalk bag A hand-sized holder for a climber's chalk that is usually carried on a chalkbelt for easy access during a climb.

Chicken Head see bollard, horn.

Chimney A rock cleft with vertical sides mostly parallel, large enough to fit the climber's body into. To climb such a structure, the climber often uses his head, back and feet to apply opposite pressure on the vertical walls.The process of using such a technique.

Chipping Improving a hold by permanently altering the rock. Widely used in the 80's and early 90's, but now considered unethical and unacceptable.

Chock A mechanical device, or a wedge, used as anchors in cracks.A naturally occurring stone wedged in a crack.

Choss Loose or "rotten" rock.

Classification See Grade.

Clawing Use of front points of crampons, ice axe pick and ice hammer pick to climb a slope.

Clean To remove equipment from a route.A route that is free of loose vegetation and rocks.To complete a climb without falling or resting on the rope. Also see redpoint.In aid climbing, abbreviated "C", a route that does not require the use of a hammer or any invasive addition of protection (such as pitons or copperheads) into the rock (see protection).

Cleaning tool A device for removing jammed equipment, especially nuts, from a route. Also known as a nut key.

Climbing area A region that is plentiful with climbing routes.

Climbing command A short phrase used for communication between a climber and a belayer.

Climbing gym Specialized indoor climbing centres. See gym climbing. (Usually just called a climbing wall in Britain).

Climbing shoe Footwear designed specifically for climbing. Usually well fitting, with a rubber sole.

Climbing technique Particular techniques, or moves, commonly applied in climbing.

Climbing wall Artificial rock, typically in a climbing gym.

Clipping in The process of attaching to belay lines or anchors for protection.

Col A small pass or "saddle" between two peaks. Excellent for navigation as when standing on one it's always down in two, opposite, directions and up in the two directions in between those.

Cord lock a lock or toggle used to fasten cords with gloved hands. Used on most mountaineering gear.

Cordelette A long loop of accessory cord used to tie into multiple anchor points.

Corner An inside corner of rock, the opposite to an arête (UK). See Dihedral.

Cornice An overhanging edge of snow on a ridge.

Couloir A steep gully or gorge frequently filled with snow or ice.

Crack climbing To ascend on a rock face by wedging body parts into cracks, i.e. not face climbing. See jamming and chimney.

Crag A small area with climbing routes, often just a small cliff face or a few boulders.

Crampons Metal framework with spikes attached to boots to increase safety on snow and ice.

Cramponing Using crampons to ascend or descend on ice, preferably with maximum number of points of the crampon into the ice for weight distribution.Accidentally piercing something with a crampon spike.

Crank To pull on a hold as hard as possible.

Crash pad A thick mat used to soften landings or to cover hazardous objects in the event of a fall. See: Bouldering mat

Crater Hitting the ground at the end of a fall instead of being caught by the rope.

Crimp A hold which is only just big enough to be grasped with the tips of the fingers.The process of holding onto a crimp.

Crux The most difficult portion of a climb.

Cut-loose Where a climber's feet swing away from the rock on overhanging terrain, leaving the climber hanging only by their hands. Also known as "Cutting feet."

Cwm (Welsh) Hanging valley, cirque: a steep-walled semicircular basin in a mountain; may contain a lake, Cwm as does a corrie.

D

Daisy chain A special purpose type of sling with multiple sewn, or tied, loops. It is significantly weaker than a normal sling.

Dead hang To hang limp, such that weight is held by ligament tension rather than muscles.

Deadman anchor An object buried into snow to serve as an anchor for an attached rope. One common type of such an anchor is the snow fluke.

Deadpoint A dynamic climbing technique in which the hold is grabbed at the apex of upward motion. This technique places minimal strain on both the hold and the arms.

Deck The ground.To hit the ground, usually the outcome of a fall.

Deep Water SoloingFree climbing an area that overhangs a deep enough body of water to allow for a safe fall.

Descender A device for controlled descent on a rope. Many belay devices may be used as descenders, including ATCs, eights, or even carabiners. See rappel.

Dexamethasone  A pharmaceutical drug used in the treatment of high altitude cerebral edema as well as high altitude pulmonary edema. It is commonly carried on mountain climbing expeditions to help climbers deal with altitude sickness.[1]

Dialled To have complete understanding of a particular climbing move or route.

Diamox A drug used to inhibit the onset of altitude sickness. Otherwise known as Acetazolamide.[1]

Dièdre A dihedral.

Dihedral An inside corner of rock, with more than a 90-degree angle between the faces. See also corner and arête.

Direct aid A type of tension climbing consisting of using one or more belay ropes to haul the leader up to the next point of protection.

Double Rope Technique (DRT) For alpine and rock climbers this term implies the use of two separate ropes. For tree climbers this term is ambiguous but is usually interpreted as a synonym for Doubled Rope Technique.

Doubled Rope Technique (DdRT) A method used primarily by tree climbers where the rope passes over a support/limb and continuously slides over the limb as the climber ascends or descends.

Downclimb To descend by climbing downward, typically after completing a climb.

Dry tooling Using tools for ice climbing like crampons and ice axes on rock.

Dulfersitz A method of rappelling, without mechanical tools, where the uphill rope is straddled by the climber then looped around a hip, across the chest, over the opposite (weak) shoulder, and held with the downhill (strong) hand to adjust the shoulder friction and thus the descending speed.

Dynamic belay Technique of stopping a long fall using smooth braking to reduce stress on the protection points and avoid unnecessary trauma from an abrupt stop.

Dynamic rope A slightly elastic rope that softens falls to some extent. Also tend to be damaged less severely by heavy loads. Compare with static rope.

Dynamic motion Any move in which body momentum is used to progress. As opposed to static technique where three-point suspension and slow, controlled movement is the rule.

Dyno A dynamic move to grab a hold that would otherwise be out of reach. Generally both feet will leave the rock face and return again once the target hold is caught. Non-climbers would call it a jump or a leap.

E

Edge A thin ledge on the rock.

Edging Using the edge of the climbing shoe on a foothold. In the absence of footholds, smearing is used.

Egyptian A climbing technique used to reduce tension in arms while holding a side grip.

Eight-thousander A mountain whose elevation exceeds 8,000 metres above sea level.

Eliminate A term from bouldering describing a move or series of moves in which either certain holds are placed 'off bounds' or other artificial restrictions are imposed.

Elvis legs Wobbly knees resulting from tired legs.

Epic An ordinary climb rendered difficult by a dangerous combination of weather, injuries, darkness, or other adverse factors.

Exposure Empty space below a climber, usually referring to a great distance above the deck through which the climber could fall.

F

Face climbing To ascend a vertical rock face using finger holds, edges and smears, i.e. not crack climbing.

Fall Undesirable downward motion. Hopefully stopped by a rope, otherwise see mountain rescue.A "free-solo belay", the quickest way to reach the ground.

Figure Four Advanced climbing technique where the climber hooks a leg over the opposite arm, and then pushes down with this leg to achieve a greater vertical reach. Requires strength and a solid handhold.

Finger board Training equipment used to build finger strength.

First ascent The first successful completion of a route.

Fist jam A type of jam using the hand. See climbing technique.

Fixed rope A rope which has a fixed attachment point. Commonly used for abseiling or aid climbing.

Flagging Climbing technique where a leg is held in a position to maintain balance, rather than to support weight. Often useful to prevent barn-dooring.

Flake A thin slab of rock detached from the main face.

Flapper An injury consisting of a piece of loose (flapping) skin. A climber will usually just repair these with sticky tape or super glue.

Flash To successfully and cleanly complete a climbing route on the first attempt after having received beta of some form. Also refers to an ascent of this type. For ascents on the first attempt without receiving beta see on-sight.

Follow What the second does.

Font The French bouldering grading system.

Fourteener Mountain that tops 14,000 feet (4,300 m) in the contiguous United States.

Free climbing Climbing without unnatural aids, other than used for protection.

Free solo Climbing without aid or protection. This typically means climbing without a rope.

French free Also known as French climbing, or French freeing, it is the use of aid climbing techniques to bypass a section due to climbing difficulty, rock conditions, etc; typically for only a short section of the total climb.[2]

Frenchies An exercise used to develop lock-off strength.

Friction Climbing technique relying on the friction between the sloped rock and the sole of the shoe to support the climber's weight, as opposed using holds or edges, cracks, etc.

Friend A name brand of a type of spring loaded camming device (SLCD), sometimes used to refer to any type of spring loaded camming device.

FluteA usually insecure fin or flake of rock or ice.

G

Gaston A climbing grip using one hand with the thumb down and elbow out. The grip maintains friction against a hold by pressing outward toward the elbow.

Gendarme A pinnacle or isolated rock tower frequently encountered along a ridge.

Geneva rappel A modified dulfersitz rappel using the hip and downhill arm for friction, rather than the chest and shoulder, offering less complexity, but less friction and less control.

Glacier travel walking or climbing on a glacier; a rope is usually used to arrest falls into crevasses, but protection is not used.

Glissade A usually voluntary act of sliding down a steep slope of snow.

Gorp Trail mix for periodic nibbling to keep high energy level between meals on long climbs or hikes. An backronym for 'Good Ol' Raisins & Peanuts'

Grade Intended as an objective measure of the technical difficulty of a particular climb or bouldering problem. More often is highly subjective, however.A surveying term for referring to the slope of an incline. (Grade (geography))

Grigri A belay device designed to be easy to use and safer for beginners because it is self-locking under load. Invented and manufactured by Petzl. Many experienced climbers advocate the use of an atc type device for beginners

Gripped Scared. Also over gripping the rock.

Grovel To climb with obviously poor style or technique.A climbing route judged to be without redeeming virtue.

Gumby An inexperienced (or unsafe) climber.

Gym climbing 

Climbing indoors, on artificial climbing walls. This is typically for training but many people consider this a worthwhile activity in its own right.

H

HACE High Altitude Cerebral Edema - a severe, and often fatal, form of altitude sickness.[1]

Hand traverse Traversing without any definitive footholds, i.e. smearing or heelhooking.

Hangdog While lead climbing or on top rope, to hang on the rope or a piece of protection for a rest.

Hanging belay Belaying at a point such that the belayer is suspended.

HAPE High Altitude Pulmonary Edema - a serious form of altitude sickness.[1]

Harness See climbing harness. A sewn nylon webbing device worn around the waist and thighs that is designed to allow a person to safely hang suspended in the air.

Haul bag A large and often unwieldy bag into which supplies and climbing equipment may be thrown.

Head point See top rope. The practice of top-roping a hard trad route before leading it cleanly.

Headwall The region of a cliff or rock face that steepens dramatically.

Helmet Also known as a brain bucket or skid lid. It can save your life, but only while worn.

Hexcentric A protective device. It is an eccentric hexagonal nut attached to a wire loop. The nut is inserted into a crack and it holds through counter-pressure. Often just termed Hex.

High Ball A boulder, which is usually more than 3-4m high and falling from top can lead to different injuries.

Hold A place to temporarily cling, grip, jam, press, or stand in the process of climbing.

Honed To be in peak mental and physical fitness for climbing.

Hook Equipment used in aid climbing.A climbing technique involving hooking a heel or toe against a hold in order to balance or to provide additional support.

Horn Large, pointed protrusion of rock that can be slung. Typically also makes a good hand hold. See bollard, chicken head.

I

Ice axe A handy tool for safety and balance, having a pick/adze head and a spike at the opposite end of a shaft.

Ice hammer A lightweight ice axe with a hammer/pick head on a short handle and no spike.

Ice screw A screw used to protect a climb over steep ice or for setting up a crevasse rescue system. The strongest and most reliable is the modern tubular ice screw which ranges in length from 18 to 23 cm.

Ice piton Long, wide, serrated piton once used for weak protection on ice.

Indoor climbing See gym climbing.

J

Jamming Wedging a body part into a crack.

Jib A particularly small foot hold, usually only large enough for the big toe, sometimes relying heavily on friction to support weight.

Jug A shortened term for Jumar, both noun and verb.

Jug hold A large, easily held hold. Also known simply as a jug.

Jumar 

1. A type of mechanical ascender.2. To ascend a rope using a mechanical ascender.

K

KarenSee Cairn.

Klemheist knot An alternative to the Prusik knot, useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing.

Knots Climbers rely on many different knots for anchoring oneself to a mountain, joining two ropes together, slings for climbing up the rope, etc.

L

Lead climbing A form of climbing in which the climber places anchors and attaches the belay rope as they climb (traditional) or clips the belay rope into preplaced equipment attached to bolts (sport).

Leader Fall A fall while Lead climbing. A fall from above the climbers last piece of protection. The falling leader will fall at least twice the distance back to his or her last piece, plus slack and rope stretch.

Lieback Or layback. A climbing move that involves pulling on the hands while pushing on the feet.

Liquid Chalk A liquid form of chalk, which holds longer time than normal chalk and is being used on very hard routes and competitions, where every chalking costs too much power.

Locking carabiner A carabiner with a locking gate, to prevent accidental release of the rope.

Lock-off Using tendon strength to support weight on a hand hold without tiring muscles too much.

Low-Angle A face climb that is less than vertical; the opposite of an overhang or roof. The same as "slab".

M

Mantle A move used to surmount a ledge or feature in the rock in the absence of any useful holds directly above. It involves pushing down on a ledge or feature instead of pulling down. In ice climbing, a mantle is done by moving the hands from the shaft to the top of the ice tool and pushing down on the head of the tool.

The external covering of a climbing rope. Climbing ropes use kernmantle construction consisting of a kern (or core) for strength and an external sheath called the mantle.

Match To use one hold for two limbs, or to swap limbs on a particular hold.

Moat A crevasse that forms where the glacier pulls away from a rock formation.

Mountain rescue A friendly team of people that may come and rescue you after an injury or accident. May also search for overdue climbers, at no small peril and expense. Also see coroner and rescue doctrine of negligence law.

Move Application of a specific climbing technique to progress on a climb.

Moving together Method of climbing – used on easy Alpine ground – in which two or more climbers climb at the same time with running belays between them and fixed belays not being used.

Multi-pitch climbing Climbing on routes that are too long for a single belay rope.

Munter hitch A simple hitch that is often used for belaying without a mechanical belay device. Otherwise known as an Italian hitch or a Friction hitch.

N

Névê Permanent granular ice formed by repeated freeze-thaw cycles.

No-hand rest An entirely leg-supported resting position during climbing that does not require hands on the rock.

Nub A little hold that only a few fingers can grip, or the tips of the toes.

Nunatak A mountain or rock that protrudes through an ice field.

Nut A metal wedge attached to a wire loop that is inserted into cracks for protection. See hexcentric.

Nut Key See Cleaning Tool

O

Objective danger Danger in a climbing situation which comes from hazards inherent in the location of the climb, not depending on the climber's skill level. Most often these involve falling rock or ice, or avalanches.

Off-width A crack that is too wide for effective hand or foot jams, but is not as large as a chimney.

On-sight A clean ascent, with no prior practice or beta.

Open book An inside angle in the rock. See also dihedral.

Overhang A section of rock or ice that is angled beyond vertical. See roof.

P

Panic Bear A panicking novice climber clinging to hand holds while searching desperately for a foot hold.

Peak-bagging 

To systematically attain designated summits under prescribed conditions.Peel 

To fall.Pendulum 

Swinging on taut rope either to reach the next hold in a pendulum traverse or after a fall when the last piece of protection is far to either side.

Pickets Long, tubular rods driven into snow to provide a quick anchor.

Pied à plat A crampon technique in the French style: to climb on high-angle ice with feet flat on the ice (as opposed to front-pointing).

Pied assis A crampon technique in the French style: to rest on high-angle ice with one foot tucked under the buttocks, toes pointed straight down-slope.

Pied en canard A crampon technique in the French style: to walk on moderate-angle ice with toes pointed outward; literally, "duck footed".

Pied marche A crampon technique in the French style: to walk on low-angle ice with toes pointed straight ahead.

Picknick stop A No-hand rest.

Pinkpoint To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging), but with pre-placed protection and carabiners. Also see clean and redpoint.

Pinch Hold This is a hold where you must pinch it to hold on. They come in various sizes.

Pitch In the strictest climbing definition, a pitch is considered one rope length (50–60 meters). However, in guide books and route descriptions, a pitch is the portion of a climb between two belay points.

Piton A flat or angled metal blade of steel which incorporates a clipping hole for a carabiner or a ring in its body. A piton is typically used in "aid-climbing" and an appropriate size and shape is hammered into a thin crack in the rock and preferably removed by the last team member.

Piton catcher Clip-on string fastened to piton when inserting or removing, so as to avoid loss.

Plunge step An aggressive step pattern for descending on hard or steep angle snow.

Pof An alternative to chalk made from pine resin. Popular in Fontainebleau but discouraged (or actively forbidden) everywhere else since it deposits a thick, shiny resin layer on the rock and friction can only be achieved by using more pof.

Positive Of a hold or part of a hold, having a surface facing upwards, or away from the direction it is pulled, facilitating use.

Pressure Breathing Forcefully exhaling to facilitate O2/CO2 exchange at altitude. Also called the "Whittaker wheeze".

Problem Used in bouldering, the path that a climber takes in order to complete the climb. Same as route in roped climbing.

Protection Process of setting equipment or anchors for safety.Equipment or anchors used for arresting falls. Commonly known as Pro.

Prusik A knot used for ascending a rope. It is named after Dr Karl Prusik, the Austrian mountaineer who developed this knot in 1931.To use a Prusik knot for ascending a rope.

Pseudo Leading 

To climb a wall Toprope with having another rope connected to the climber, for practice of Lead climbing clipping. The other rope is normally not connected to any belayer below and is only there to practice the clipping. Usually practiced while learning how to Lead Climb.

Psychological protection A piece of protection that everyone knows will not hold a fall, but makes the climber feel better about having gear beneath them anyhow.

Pumped To have such an accumulation of lactic acid in the flexor digitalis (forearm), that forming even a basic grip becomes impossible. Often easy activities such as holding a camera become difficult or impossible.Sometimes also used to refer to a feeling of excitement and energy before a climb. The double meaning is often a source of great frustration if without context.

Q

Quickdraw Used to attach a freely running rope to anchors or chocks. Sometimes called "quickies" or just "draws."

R

Rack The set of equipment carried up a climb; also, the part of a harness (consisting of several plastic loops) where equipment is hung, ready to be used.

Rappel The process by which a climber may descend on a fixed rope using a friction device. Also known as Abseil or roping down..

Rebolting The replacement of bolts on an existing climb.

Red point To complete a lead climb without falling or resting on the rope (hangdogging). Also see clean and pinkpoint.

Rest step Energy-saving technique where unweighted (uphill) leg is rested between each forward step, sometimes by "locking" knee of rear leg.

Retro-bolting The addition of bolts to an existing climb.

Rodeo clippingTo clip in to the first piece of protection from the ground by swinging a loop of rope so that it is caught by a carabiner. This can only be done when the first piece of gear is already placed.

Roof Horizontal overhang.

Rope A basic item of climbing equipment that physically connects the climber to the belayer.

Rope jumping Jumping from objects using rock climbing equipment.

Route The path of a particular climb, or a predefined set of moves.

Runner A bit of gear in the rock with the rope attached to it (usually via a quick draw).

Runout A lengthy distance between two points of protection which in some, but not all, cases might be perceived as frightening or dangerous. May also be used as an adjective to describe a route, or a section of a route.A long portion of a route with minimal protection.

Rugosity Hold sized area of rock that has rougher texture than its surroundings.

RURP 

Acronym, stands for Realized Ultimate Reality Piton. Miniature, postage-stamp sized piton originally designed by Yvon Chouinard

S

Saddle A high pass between two peaks, larger than a col.

Sandbag A climb which receives a much lower grade than deserved. Also used as a verb when referring to the act of describing a climbing route as easier than it actually is.

'scend(contraction of the word ascend, past tense: 'scended.) To cleanly complete a route. ie on-sight, flash, redpoint. Sometimes even on tr.

Scrambling A type of climbing somewhere between hiking and graded rock climbing.

Screamer 

1. A long and loud fall.2. A nylon webbing structure consisting of one large loop sewn up in multiple places to make a

shorter length. In the event of a fall the stitching of the sewn sections purposefully rip apart, absorbing some of the fall energy and decelerating the climber.

Scree Small, loose, broken rocks, often at the base of a cliff.

Screw on A small climbing hold, screwed onto the wall in climbing gyms. Can be used for feet in a route regardless of its colour. Also referred to as a foot chip, chip or micro.

Second A climber who follows the lead, or first, climber.

Self-Arrest The act of planting the pick of your ice axe into the snow to arrest a fall in the event of a slip. Also a method of stopping in a controlled glissade.

Send See 'scend

Serac A large ice tower.

Sewing machine leg The involuntary vibration of one or both legs resulting from fatigue or panic. Also known as "Scissor leg", "Elvis Presley Syndrome", or "Disco knee". Can often be remedied by bringing the heel of the offending leg down, changing the muscles used to support the weight of the climber

Sharp end The end of the belay rope that is attached to the lead climber.

SherpaA Sherpa is a person of the ethnic group of the same name that is located in the Himalayan Mountains.

Also a generic term for mountaineering porters in Nepal (usually those working at or above base camp) regardless of their ethnic groupShort fixing

The lead climber switches over to self belaying and continues to climb after reaching a belay and fixing the rope. Meanwhile the second climber jugs the fixed rope and cleans the pitch. When he reaches the belay, he ties in and starts to belay the leader in the traditional way again. When the leader reaches the next belay the process is repeated.

Side pull A hold that needs to be gripped with a sideways pull towards the body.

Simulclimbing A technique where both climbers move simultaneously upward with the leader placing protection which the second removes as they advance. A device known as a Tibloc which

allows the rope to only move in a single direction is sometimes used to prevent the second climber from accidentally pulling the lead climber off should the second slip.

Single Rope Technique (SRT) The use of a single rope where one or both ends of the rope are attached to fixed anchor points.

Sirdar Head Sherpa mountain guide.

Sit start Starting a climb from a position in which the climber is sitting on the floor. This is common in climbing gyms in order to fit an extra move into the climb. Noted as SDS in some topo guides.

Slab A relatively low-angle (significantly less than vertical) section of rock, usually with few large features. Requires slab climbing techniques.

Slab climbing A particular type of rock climbing, and its associated techniques, involved in climbing rock that is less than vertical. The emphasis is on balance, footwork, and making use of very small features or rough spots on the rock for friction.

Slack Portion of rope that is not taut, preferably minimized during belay.

SLCD Abbreviation for spring-loaded camming device, a type of protection device. These are better known by the term cam.

Sling Webbing sewn, or tied, into a loop.

Sloper A sloping hold with very little positive surface. A sloper is comparable to palming a basketball.

Smearing To use friction on the sole of the climbing shoe, in the absence of any useful footholds.

Snarg A type of tubular ice screw that is inserted by hammering.

Snow fluke An angled aluminium plate attached to a metal cable. The fluke is buried into snow, typically used as a deadman anchor.

Solo climbing Setting and cleaning ones own protection on an ascent; climbing by oneself.

Sport climbing A style of climbing where form, technical (or gymnastic) ability and strength are more emphasized over exploration, self-reliance and the exhilaration of the inherent dangers involved in the sport. Sport climbing routes tend to be well protected with pre-placed bolt-anchors and lends itself well to competitive climbing.

Spotting An alternative to belaying commonly used during bouldering. A friend of the climber stands beneath them and prevents awkward falls or falls onto hazards.

Sprag A type of hand position where the fingers and thumb are opposed.

Static Of a style of climbing or specific move, not dynamic.

Static rope A non-elastic rope. Compare with dynamic rope.

Steep Descriptive of any climbing face that is angled beyond vertical. See Overhang.

Stem 

1. The simultaneous use of two widely spaced footholds.2. Climbing using two faces that are at an angle less than 180° to each other.

Sticht plate A belay device consisting of a flat plate with a pair of slots. Named after the inventor Franz Sticht.

Stick clip 

A long stick on the end of which a climber can affix a quickdraw. It allows the climber to clip a quickdraw to the first bolt on a sport climb while still standing on the ground. This is especially useful if the first bolt is high up, and out of the comfort zone of the climber. A stick clip can be bought or easily made by attaching a quickdraw to a stick with a rubber band.

Stopper 

1. A wedge-shaped nut.2. A knot used to prevent the rope running through a piece of equipment.

Summit 

1. The high point of a mountain or peak.2. To reach such a high point.

Swami Belt A kind of proto- climbing harness consisting of a long length of tubular webbing wrapped several times around the climbers body and secured with a water knot. Largely eschewed today in favor of commercial harnesses.

Swinging-lieback A dynamic form of the lieback described above, rotating off one foot while maintaining a grip with that hand, then grabbing a high handhold at the deadpoint of the swing. This move is frequently reversible, unlike more aerial dynos.

T

Talus Large rock fragments forming an often unstable slope below scree.

Teabagging When, after a whipper, or long fall, a climber falls past their belayer, who is generally lifted up off the ground.

Technical climbing Climbing involving a rope and some means of protection, as opposed to scrambling or glacier travel.

Tension A technique for maintaining balance using a taut rope through a point of protection.

Thrutching Bad technique or 'body climbing' specifically at Mount Arapiles

Top rope To belay from a fixed anchor point above the climb.

Top-outTo complete a route by ascending over the top of the structure being climbed.

Traditional climbing A style of climbing that emphasizes the adventure and exploratory nature of climbing. While sport climbers generally will use pre-placed protection, many traditional (or "trad") climbers will place their own protection as they climb, generally with a rack.

Mountain Tramming A technique that is typically used while cleaning gear from a steep route. A quickdraw is clipped between the climber's harness and the rope that is threaded through the gear. As the climber is lowered by the belayer, they will descend along the line of the gear.

Trad Rack Any equipment you regularly use to climb

Training Getting prepared to climb on difficult mountains

Traverse To climb in a horizontal direction.A section of a route that requires progress in a horizontal direction.A Tyrolean traverse is crossing a chasm using a rope anchored at both ends.

A pendulum traverse involves swinging across a wall or chasm while suspended from a rope affixed above the climber.

Tricam A piece of rock climbing protection.

Tuber A belay device.

Tufa A limestone rib formation that protrudes from the wall which can sometimes fit within the pinching grasp of a climber's hand.

U

Undercling A hold which is gripped with the palm of the hand facing upwards.

V

"V"-grade A technical grading system for bouldering problems, invented by John Sherman.

V-thread A type of abseiling point used especially in winter and ice climbing. Also called abalakov thread.

Verglas A thin coating of ice that forms over rocks when rainfall or melting snow freezes on rock. Hard to climb on as crampons have insufficient depth for reliable penetration.

W

Wand A bamboo stick with a small flag on top used to mark paths over glaciers and snow fields.

Webbing Hollow and flat nylon strip, mainly used to make slings.

Webolette A piece of webbing with eyes sewn into the ends which can be used in place of a cordelette.

Weighting As in, "weighting the rope." Any time the rope takes the weight of the climber. This can happen during a minor fall, a whipper (long fall), or simply by resting while hanging on the belay rope (see also hangdogging.)

Whipper A lead fall from above and to the side of the last clip, whipping oneself downwards and in an arc. Has come to be the term for any fall beyond the last placed or clipped piece of protection.

Wired Describes a route or sequence which a climber has rehearsed extensively and thus ascends with ease. See dialled.

Wires A slang term for nuts.

Wolf moonTo complete a lead climb during night time.

Woodie A home made climbing wall. Often specifically a hybrid between a climbing wall and a fingerboard. Specifically called such because of the wooden panels (usually left unpainted) used to attach the climbing holds to.

X

Wanker-Sport climber that uses quickdraws in order to advance on a free climb

Y

Yosemite Decimal System A numerical system for rating the difficulty of walks, hikes, and climbs in the United States. The rock climbing (5.x) portion of the scale is the most common climb grading system used in the US. The scale runs from 5.0 to 5.15b (as of 2008)

Yabo Another name for a Sit start, a 'Yabo start' was named after John 'Yabo' Yablonski[3].

Z

Z-clipping Clipping into an anchor with the segment of rope from beneath the previous piece of protection, resulting in a tangled configuration of the belay rope.

Zipper fall A fall in which each piece of protection fails in turn. In some cases when the rope comes taut during a fall, the protection can fail from the bottom up, especially if the first piece was not placed to account for outward and/or upward force.

Z-pulley Also Z-system. A particular configuration of rope, anchors, and pulleys typically used to extricate a climber after falling into a crevasse.

Grade (climbing)

In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route. Different aspects of climbing each have their own grading system, and many different nationalities developed their own, distinctive grading systems.

There are a number of factors that contribute to the difficulty of a climb including the technical difficulty of the moves, the strength and stamina required, the level of commitment, and the difficulty of protecting the climber. Different grading systems consider these factors in different ways, so no two grading systems have an exact one-to-one correspondence.

Climbing grades are inherently subjective - they are the opinion of one or a few climbers, often the first ascentionist or the author(s) of a guidebook. While grades are usually applied fairly consistently across a climbing area, there are often perceived differences between grading at different climbing areas. Because of these variables, a given climber might find a route to be either 'too hard' or 'too easy' for the grade applied - in short, all grades, regardless of the system used, are an approximation only.

Grade systems for free climbing

For free climbing, there are many different grading systems varying according to country. They include:

Yosemite Decimal System

The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) of grading routes was initially developed as the Sierra Club grading system in the 1930s to rate hikes and climbs in the Sierra Nevada range. The rock climbing portion was developed at Tahquitz Rock in southern California by members of the Rock Climbing Section of the Angeles Chapter of the Sierra Club in the 1950s.[1] It quickly spread to Canada and the rest of the Americas.

Originally a single-part classification system, Grade and Protection Rating categories were added to the YDS in recent years. The new classifications do not apply to every climb and usage varies widely.

When a route also involves aid climbing, its unique Aid designation can be appended to the YDS free climbing rating. For example, The North America Wall on El Capitan would be classed "VI, 5.8, A5[2]".[2] or Medlicott Dome – Bachar/Yerian 5.11c (X,***)[3]

Guidebooks often append some number of stars to the YDS rating, to indicate a climb's overall "quality" (how "fun" or "worthwhile" the climb is). This "star ranking" is unrelated to the YDS system, and varies from guidebook to guidebook.

YDS Class

The system consists of five classes indicating the technical difficulty of the hardest section:

Class 1 is walking with a low chance of injury and a fall unlikely to be fatal. Classes 2 and 3 are steeper scrambling with increased exposure and a greater chance of severe injury,

but falls are not always fatal. Class 4 can involve short steep sections where the use of a rope is recommended, and un-roped falls

could be fatal. Class 5 is considered true rock climbing, predominantly on vertical or near vertical rock, and requires

skill and a rope to proceed safely. Un-roped falls would result in severe injury or death.

In theory, Class 6 exists and is used to grade aid climbing (where progress is made by climbing directly on equipment placed in or on the rock and not the rock itself). However, the separate A (aid) rating system became popular instead. (See Aid climbing)

The original intention was that the classes would be subdivided decimally, so that a route graded 4.5 would be a scramble halfway between 4 and 5, and 5.9 would be the hardest rock climb. Increased standards and improved equipment meant that climbs graded 5.9 in the 1960s are now only of moderate difficulty. Rather than regrade all climbs each time standards improve, additional grades were added at the top – originally only 5.10, but it soon became apparent that an open-ended system was needed, and further grades of 5.11, 5.12, etc. were added.

While the top grade was 5.10, a large range of climbs in this grade were completed, and climbers realized a subdivision of the upper grades were required. Letter grades were added for climbs at 5.10 and above, by adding a letter "a" (easiest), "b", "c" or "d" (hardest).

As of 2008, the hardest climbing routes in the world are grade 5.15b.[4][5] Ratings on the hardest climbs tend to be tentative, until other climbers have had a chance to complete the routes and a consensus can be reached on the precise grade.

The system originally considered only the technical difficulty of the hardest move on a route. For example a route of mainly 5.7 moves but with one 5.12a move would be graded 5.12a. A climb that consisted of 5.11b moves all along its route, would be 5.11b. Modern application of climbing grades, especially on climbs at the upper end of the scale, also consider how sustained or strenuous a climb is, in addition to the difficulty of the single hardest move.

YDS Grade

The YDS system involves an optional Roman numeral Grade that indicates the length and seriousness of the route. The Grades are:

Grade I: one to two hours of climbing. Grade II: less than half a day. Grade III: half a day climb. Grade IV: full day climb. Grade V: two day climb. Grade VI: multi-day climb.[6]

Grade VII: a climb lasting a week or longer

The Grade is more relevant to mountaineering and big wall climbing, and often not stated when talking about short rock climbs.

YDS protection rating

An optional protection rating indicates the spacing and quality of the protection available, for a well-equipped and skilled leader. The letter codes chosen were, at the time, identical to the American system for rating the content of movies:

G – Good, solid protection ground up PG – Pretty good, few sections of poor or non-existent placements PG13 – OK protection, falls may be long but will probably not cause serious injury. R – Runout, some protection placements may be very far apart (possibility of broken bones, even when

properly protected) X – No protection, extremely dangerous (possibility of death, even when properly protected)

The G and PG ratings are often left out, as being typical of normal, everyday climbing. PG13 ratings are occasionally included. R and X climbs are usually noted as a caution to the unwary leader. Application of protection ratings varies widely from area to area and from guidebook to guidebook.

British

The British grading system for traditional climbs, used in Great Britain and Ireland, has (in theory) two parts: the adjectival grade and the technical grade. Sport climbing in Britain and Ireland uses the French grading system, often prefixed with the letter "F".

Adjectival grade

The adjectival grade attempts to assess the overall difficulty of the climb taking into account all factors, for a climber leading the route on sight in traditional style. In the early 20th century it ran Easy, Moderate, Difficult, but increasing standards have several times led to extra grades being added at the top. The adjectival grades are as follows:

Easy (rarely used) Moderate (M, or "Mod") Difficult (D, or "Diff") Hard Difficult (HD - sometimes omitted) Very Difficult (VD, or "V Diff") Hard Very Difficult (HVD – sometimes omitted) Severe (S) Hard Severe (HS) Very Severe (VS) Hard Very Severe (HVS) Extremely Severe (E1, E2, E3, ...)

The Extremely Severe grade is subdivided in an open-ended fashion into E1 (easiest), E2, E3 and so on. As of 2006 the hardest climb was graded E11: Rhapsody on Dumbarton Rock, climbed by Dave MacLeod, featured French 8c+ climbing with the potential of a 20-metre fall onto a small wire. [7] In 2008, James Pearson climbed The Walk of Life at Dyer's Lookout, North Devon; the ascent was performed without using bolts or pitons, with just mobile protections, and was graded E12/7a.[8][9] In January 2009 the route was climbed by Dave MacLeod of Dumbarton fame, who downgraded the route to an E9 6c.[10] Many climbers consider such high grades provisional, as the climbs have not yet been achieved on sight.

Some guidebooks make finer distinctions by adding the prefix "Mild"; thus, Mild Severe lies between Hard Very Difficult and Severe. Additionally, in some areas the grade "XS" is used for climbs on loose or crumbling rock, irrespective of their technical difficulty.[11]

Technical grade

The technical grade attempts to assess only the technical climbing difficulty of the hardest move or moves on the route, without regard to the danger of the move or the stamina required if there are several such moves in a row. Technical grades are open-ended, starting at 1 and subdivided into "a", "b" and "c", but are rarely used below 3c. The hardest recorded climbs are around 7b.

Usually the technical grade increases with the adjectival grade, but a hard technical move very near the ground (that is, notionally safe) may not raise the standard of the adjectival grade very much. VS 4c might be a typical grade for a route. VS 4a would usually indicate very poor protection (easy moves, but no gear), while VS 5b would usually indicate the crux move was the first move or very well protected. On multi-pitch routes it is usual to give the overall climb an adjectival grade and each pitch a separate technical grade (such as HS 4b, 4a).

UIAA

The UIAA grading system is mostly used for short rock routes in Western Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Czech Republic, and Slovakia. On long routes it is often used in the Alps and Himalaya. Using Roman numerals, it was originally intended to run from I (easiest) to X (hardest), but as with all other grading systems, improvements to climbing standards have led to the system being open-

ended. An optional + or − may be used to further differentiate difficulty. As of 2004, the hardest climbs are XII−.

French

The French grading system considers the overall difficulty of the climb, taking into account the difficulty of the moves and the length of climb. This differs from most grading systems where one rates a climbing route according to the most difficult section (or single move). Grades are numerical, starting at 1 (very easy) and the system is open-ended. Each numerical grade can be subdivided by adding a letter (a, b or c). Examples: 2, 4, 4b, 6a, 7c. An optional + may be used to further differentiate difficulty. For example, these routes are sorted by ascending difficulty: 5c+, 6a, 6a+, 6b, 6b+. Many countries in Europe use a system with similar grades but not necessarily matching difficulties.

Brazilian

The Brazilian grade system is similar to the French system, but with a few adjustments: gradings 1 to 2sup are very easy (2sup being a very steep, but almost walkable route), 3 to 5 are easy (3 being the grade most indoor gyms use as a starting point for beginners) and it progresses till the maximum grade of 12, as of 2007. The suffix "sup" (possibly for "superior") is used for grades 1 to 6, and the standard French "a", "b" and "c" suffixes for grades from 7 to 12.

The "6+" (locally pronounced "6sup") was considered the hardest possible grade until 1980s. So when an even harder route was established, it was proposed to use "French" style of letters for the newer "sporting" climbs. so, 1...6+ are "classical" and 7A,7B...12a are sporting grades.

For US-BR conversion, ignore "5." and subtract 4. (5.10=6).

Ewbank

The Ewbank system, used in Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa, was developed in the mid 1960s by John Ewbank. Ewbank also developed an open ended “M” system for aid climbing. The numerical Ewbank system is open-ended, starting from 1, which you can (at least in theory) walk up, up to 39(as of 2009) with the hardest climb in Australia currently being a 35. South African and Australian grades differ by 1 or 2 grade points.[12]

The Ewbank system is intended to simply grade the hardest individual move on a climb. The current practice is to make mention of all factors affecting the climber's experience (exposure, difficulty of setting protection or outright lack of protection) in the description of the climb contained in the guide.

Grade systems for mountaineering

There are several systems in current use to grade mountain climbs. Alpine mountaineering routes are usually graded based on all of their different aspects, as they can be very diverse. Thus, a mountain route may be graded 5.6 (rock difficulty), A2 (aid difficulty), WI3 (ice climbing difficulty), M5 * (mixed climbing difficulty), 70 degrees (steepness), 4000 ft (length), VI (commitment level), and many other factors. See also Summitpost Alpine Grades

International French Adjectival System (IFAS)

The French alpine grades give an overall difficulty grade to a route, taking into consideration the length, difficulty, exposure and commitment-level (i.e., how hard it may be to retreat). These are, in increasing order:[13]

F:facile (easy) PD: peu difficile (not very difficult) AD: assez difficile (fairly difficult)

D: difficile (difficult) TD: très difficile (very difficult) ED1/2/3/4: extrêmement difficile (extremely difficult) ABO: Abominablement difficile (Abominable) (Extremely difficult as well as being dangerous)

Often a + or a − is placed after the grade to indicate if a particular climb is at the lower or upper end of that grade (e.g., a climb slightly harder than "PD+" might be "AD−").

Romanian

The alpine routes in Romania are rated in the Russian grading system (itself adapted from the Welzenbach system), and reflecting the overall difficulty of the route (while leaving out the technical difficulty of the hardest move). This is why most documentation also contains the UIAA free-climbing rating of the crux of the route, as well as the aid-climbing rating (in the original aid-climbing grading system) and the then resulting free climbing rate.

The routes themselves are, however, usually only marked with the overall grade (and/or sometimes the French equivalent) at the bottom. The grades go from 1 to 7, and a good parallel can be established with the French rating (1 is F in the French rating, 2 is PD and so on, 7 being ABO). Instead of +/-, the letters A and B are (almost always) used to show if a climb is at the lower or upper end of the grade, thus, let's say, an 4B being the same as a D+ in the French system.

New Zealand

An alpine grading system adapted from the grades used in the Aoraki/Mt Cook Region is widely used in New Zealand for alpine routes in the North and South islands. Grades currently go from 1–7. The grading system is open ended; harder climbs are possible. Factors which determine grade are (in descending order of contributing weight): technical difficulty, objective danger, length and access.

Standard grading system for alpine routes in normal conditions

New Zealand Grade 1: Easy scramble. Use of rope generally only for glacier travel. New Zealand Grade 2: Steeper trickier sections may need a rope. New Zealand Grade 3: Longer steeper sections generally. Use of technical equipment necessary. Ice

climbs may require two tools. New Zealand Grade 4: Technical climbing. Knowledge of how to place ice and rock gear quickly and

efficiently a must. Involves a long day. New Zealand Grade 5: Sustained technical climbing. May have vertical sections on ice. New Zealand Grade 6: Multiple crux sections. Vertical ice may not have adequate protection. Good

mental attitude and solid technique necessary. May require a bivvy on route and be a long way from civilisation.

New Zealand Grade 7: Vertical ice/rock which may not have adequate protection. Rock grades in the high 20's (Ewbank). Climb may be in remote area. May require a bivvy on route.

Alaskan

In the Alaskan grading system, mountaineering climbs range from grade 1–6, and factor in difficulty, length, and commitment. The hardest, longest routes are Alaskan grade 6. The system was first developed by Boyd N. Everett, Jr. in 1966, and is supposed to be particularly adapted to the special challenges of Alaskan climbing. Here is a summary of Alaska grade descriptors, adapted (and greatly simplified) from Alaska: A Climbing Guide, by Michael Wood and Colby Coombs (The Mountaineers, 2001):

Alaska Grade 1: Climb requires one day only, no technical (fifth-class) climbing. Alaska Grade 2: Either a moderate fifth-class one-day climb, or a straightforward multiday nontechnical

climb. Alaska Grade 3: Either a serious fifth-class one-day climb, or a multiday climb with some technical

elements. Alaska Grade 4: Multiday, moderately technical climb.

Alaska Grade 5: Multiday, highly technical climb. Alaska Grade 6: Multiday, extremely technical climb.

A plus (+) may be added to indicate somewhat higher difficulty. For example, the West Buttress Route on Mount McKinley (Denali) is graded 2+ in the above-mentioned guidebook.

It is important to remember that even an Alaska Grade 1 climb may involve climbing on snow and glaciers in remote locations and cold weather.

Grade systems for ice climbing

Ice climbing has a number of grading systems. The WI numeric scale measures the difficulty of routes on water ice; the M scale measures the difficulty of mixed climbs combining ice and rock. The WI scale currently spans grades from 1–7. There also exists a rating scale for Alpine Ice (compacted snow/ glacial ice) that has the same rating system as the "WI" system, but is instead denoted by "AI." The primary difference between the two is the density of the ice, Water Ice being much more dense.

WI2 - low-angled (60 degree consistent ice), with good technique can be easily climbed with one ice axe. Grades beyond this generally require the use of two ice tools.

WI3 - generally sustained in the 60-70 degree range with occasional near-vertical steps up to 4 metres (Cascade Waterfall, Banff; This House of Sky, Ghost River)

WI4 - near-vertical steps of up to 10 metres, generally sustained climbing requiring placing protection screws from strenuous stances (Professor's Falls, Banff; Weeping Wall Left, Icefields Parkway, Banff; Silk Tassle, Yoho; Moonlight & Snowline, Kananskis)

WI4+ - highly technical WI4. (Wicked Wanda, Ghost River)

WI5 - near-vertical or vertical steps of up to 20 metres, sustained climbing requiring placing multiple protection screws from strenuous stances with few good rests (Carlsberg Column, Field; The Sorcerer, Ghost River; Bourgeau Left Hand, Banff)

WI5+ - highly technical WI5 (Oh le Tabernac, Icefield Parkway; Hydrophobia, Ghost River; Sacre Bleu, Banff)

WI6 - vertical climbing for the entire pitch (e.g. 30-60 metres) with no rests. Requires excellent technique and/or a high level of fitness (The Terminator, Banff; Nemesis, Kootenay Park; Whiteman Falls, Kananaskis Country; Riptide, Banff)

WI6+ - vertical or overhanging with no rests, and highly technical WI6 (French Maid, Yoho; French Reality, Kootenay Park)

WI7 - sustained and overhanging with no rests. Extremely rare, near-mythical, and widely accepted testpiece examples of this grade don't exist in the Canadian Rockies. Note that many routes (e.g. Sea of Vapours, Banff; Riptide, Icefield Parkway, Banff) have been assigned WI7- to WI7+ but have been subsequently downgraded in latter years as they don't meet the strict criteria of steepness. In fact some local ice climbers have argued for Sea of Vapours (WI7+ originally) to be downgraded to WI5 or even WI4 simply because it's not steep enough.

Mixed climbs have recently been climbed and graded as high as M14.

M1-3: Easy. Low angle; usually no tools. M4: Slabby to vertical with some technical dry tooling. M5: Some sustained vertical dry tooling. M6: Vertical to overhanging with difficult dry tooling. M7: Overhanging; powerful and technical dry tooling; less than 10 m of hard climbing.

M8: Some nearly horizontal overhangs requiring very powerful and technical dry tooling; bouldery or longer cruxes than M7.

M9: Either continuously vertical or slightly overhanging with marginal or technical holds, or a juggy roof of 2 to 3 body lengths.

M10: At least 10 meters of horizontal rock or 30 meters of overhanging dry tooling with powerful moves and no rests.

M11: A ropelength of overhanging gymnastic climbing, or up to 15 meters of roof. M12: M11 with bouldery, dynamic moves and tenuous technical holds.

In Britain, the Scottish winter grading system is used for both ice and mixed climbs. Routes are given two grades, essentially equivalent to the adjectival and technical grades used in British traditional climbing. Overall difficulty is signified by a Roman numeral grade, and the technical difficulty of the hardest move or section of the climb is graded with an Arabic numeral. For routes of grade I – III, the technical grade is usually omitted unless it is 4 or greater. As with other grading systems, advances in climbing have led to a need for an open-ended grading system (the grades originally finished at IX, 9), and climbs have now been graded up to XI, 11.

Grade systems for bouldering

There are many grading systems used specifically for bouldering problems. See the grade (bouldering) article.

Grade systems for aid climbing

Aid climbs are graded A0 to A5 depending on the reliability of the gear placements and the consequences of a fall. New routes climbed today are often given a “New Wave” grade using the original symbols but with new definitions. Depending on the area in question, the letter “A” may mean that the use of pitons (or other gear that requires the use of a hammer) is needed to ascend the route. The letter “C” explicitly indicates that the route can be climbed clean (clean climbing) without the use of a hammer. It is considered poor form to use hammered aid where clean aid will suffice. Furthermore the clean equipment can be employed more rapidly and efficiently than hammered gear, so many climbers prefer it where possible.

The original grading system

A0: A free climb with an occasional aid move that does not require specialized aid gear ("aiders" or "etriers"). Pulling on gear during a free ascent is often referred to as A0.

A1: Requires specialized gear but all placements are solid and easy. A2: Good placements, but sometimes tricky. A3: Many difficult aid moves. Some of the placements might only hold body-weight, but the risk is still

low. A4: Many body-weight placements in a row. The risk is increasing. A5: Enough body-weight placements in a row that a fall might result in a fall of at least 20 meters.

Clean Scale

Clean Aiding is aid climbing without the use of bolting gear, pitons or other gear that scars the rock or becomes fixed after the ascent[14]. Most difficult aid climbs still require pitons or other techniques using a hammer, and are thus rated on the 'A' scale past a certain point.

C0: Bolt ladder, requires no placement of traditional gear. May indicate a pendulum or tension traverse on a free climb.

C1: Easy aid and easy placements. Typically nuts, cams and hexes. C2: Moderate aid. Solid gear, but difficult to place. May require cam or sky hooks. C2+: Up to 10m fall potential but with little risk injury. C3/A3: Hard aid. Many tenuous body-weight only placements in a row. Fall potential up to 15-20m. C3+/A3+: Same C3/A3, but with longer, more dangerous fall potential. C4/A4: Serious aid. Continuously tenuous gear placements in a row with up to 30m ledge fall potential.

RURP placements may be encountered, or may have moderate sections of hooking.

C4+/A4+: Severe aid. Longer fall potential, with high ledge fall potential. Each pitch can take many hours to lead. Thin nailing is to be expected, or may have long sections of hooking.

C5/A5: Extreme aid. Nothing on the pitch will hold a fall. A fall may result in the death of the leader or even the whole team.

Note: C5 is a theoretical and controversial grade. Many argue that a pitch is not C5 until a climber or team has died as a direct result of gear failure. However, there are several pitches that currently hold a C5/A5 rating, as none of the gear placed is rated to hold a dynamic fall.

C6 or A6 does not exist, since the aid climbing scale was developed as discreet scale that is not open ended. Also, since C5 implies the death of both climber and belayer, a rating of C6 could not cause an increase in severity.

Free climbing ratings comparison table

A comparison chart for some of the free climbing rating systems in use around the world:

Free Climbing Grading Systems

YDS(USA)

British

Tech/AdjFrench UIAA Saxon

Ewbank (Australia

, NZ & South Africa)

Finnish Norwegian Brazilian

5.2     1 I I       Isup

5.3     2 II II 11     II

5.4     3 III III 12   3 IIsup

5.5 4a VD 4 IV IV 12   4 III

5.6   S 5a V+ V 13 5− 5− IIIsup

5.7 4b HS 5b VI- VI 14 5 5 IV

  4c         15      

5.8   VS 5c VI VIIa 16 5+ 5+ IVsup

5.9 5a HVS 6a VI+ VIIb 17   6− V

5.10a   E1 6a+ VII- VIIc 18 6− 6−/6 VI

5.10b 5b   6b VII   19   6 VI/VI+

5.10c   E2 6b+ VII+ VIIIa 20 6 6+ VIsup/VI+

5.10d 5c   6c   VIIIb 21   7- VIsup

5.11a   E3 6c+ VIII− VIIIc 22 6+ 7 7a

5.11b     6c+ VIII-   23     7b

5.11c 6a E4 7a VIII IXa 24 7− 7+ 7c

5.11d     7a VIII IXb     7c

5.12a   E5 7a+ VIII+ IXc 25 7+ 7+/8− 8a

5.12b 6b   7b     26 8− 8- 8b

5.12c   E6 7b+ IX− Xa 27 8 8 8c

5.12d 6c   7c IX Xb 28 8+ 8/8+ 9a

5.13a   E7 7c+ IX+ Xc 29 9− 8+ 9b

5.13b     8a       9 9- 9c

5.13c 7a   8a+ X−   30 9+ 9−/9 10a

5.13d   E8 8b X   31 10− 9 10b

5.14a     8b+ X+   32 10 9/9+ 10c

5.14b 7b   8c     33 10+ 9+ 11a

5.14c   E9 8c+ XI−   34 11− 10− 11b

5.14d 7c   9a XI   35 11 10 11c

5.15a   9a+ XI+         12a

5.15b   9b 12b

The following grades are used for the rating of boulder problems throughout the world. Although fundamental differences in climbing style make direct comparison between bouldering and route climbing difficult, the colours in the above and below tables roughly correspond to equivalent sets of grades.

Bouldering Rating Systems

Hueco(USA) B Font. (French)

V0 B1 4

V0+ B2 4+

V1 B3 5

V2 B4 6a

V3 B5 6a+

V4 B6 6b/c

V5   6c+

V6 B7 7a

V7 B8 7a+

V8   7b+

V9 B9 7c

V10 B10 7c+

V11 B11 8a

V12 B12 8a+

V13 B13 8b

V14 B14 8b+

V15 B15 8c

V16 B16 8c+

GLOSSARY of Climbing terms

One of the first things you notice about climbing is that, just like other sports and pastimes, it has its own language and terminology, as well as its own system of grading difficulty. Here we'll deal with the lingo. It's based largely upon what you actually see, so try a few of these for size:

ABSEIL. To descend a rope using a descender or maybe with just the rope round your body (a classic abseil). Potentially lethal; the cause of more deaths than actually climbing upwards. Often abbreviated to AB. (Americans call it "rapelling" and shorten it to "rap".) [Hil McMillan]

ADVENTURE CLIMBING. What the British regard as normal and the French generally see as idiotique: anything traditional2, scary or otherwise likely to result in broken and shattered bits. What we love. [Dave Sheffield]

AID CLIMBING. Climbing using gear for resting or making progress. Covers everything from a brief rest on the rope on an otherwise traditional1 ascent to bolt ladders and étriers.

ALPINE START. Getting up earlier than about 5 am. So-called because climbers in the Alps tend to start early to avoid the queues or melting snow or simply because sleeping in a dormitory full of snoring Germans is a non-starter anyway. [Richard Furlong]

ARÊTE. An outward pointing bit of rock; a ridge or rib. Not to be confused with a corner.

ASCENDER. A device for climbing the rope when all else fails, or even, occasionally, by design. May be a simple prusik or more or less sophisticated mechanical device. [Mike Swann]

BACK AND FOOT. A technique for climbing chimneys where you put your back on one wall and push your feet against the opposite wall.

BARN DOOR. To swing round, away from the rock, when all your holds are on one side of your body; especially likely when laybacking an arête. Usually experienced where the hands and feet are on the same vertical surface, or the hands are holding something beyond the feet.

BELAY. (noun) A place where you attach yourself to the rock. This can either be done briefly (during a climb, you put in protection to create a "running belay" that the rope is clipped to) or more long-term, between pitches. In the latter case, the belay should involve many independent connections to the rock (or other immovable objects) that can bear a shockload of one or both climbers falling off. (verb) To protect another climber by preventing the rope from slipping; either with a belay device or with a body belay.

BELAY DEVICE. A piece of equipment which you use to control the rope when belaying. Belay devices include "belay tubes" (many brands), the Figure eight, the Gri-gri, and the Sticht plate.

BELLY TRAVERSE. A traverse that involves wriggling on your belly to get from one side of a shelf to the other (because the shelf isn't high enough to let you stand up). Done well, looks very professional, as it enables hands and feet off rest. Done badly, is the source of much amusement for watchers. Most people do it badly. Also known as a stomach traverse. [Ian Redmond]

BETA. Knowledge of trick moves or protection or just about anything about a route available before you start. Initially from the US, possibly from "Betamax" (early videotape format). If you get the beta on a route, you shouldn't encounter any nasty surprises. However, knowing the beta also negates the ideal onsight. Some purists argue that even route descriptions in guidebooks constitute beta, though this makes it hard to know how you could knowingly climb the route.

Abseiling

BODY BELAY. A belay performed by wrapping the rope around the body to provide friction should the climber fall. Painful. [Hil McMillan]

BOLD. Guidebook speak for unprotected, that is, no protection. [Tony Buckley]

BOLT. An expansion bolt (think: a big metal Rawlplug) fixed permanently into the rock face to protect a climb, thus removing the adventure climbing aspect. Used widely in France and other parts of the Continent; used sparingly (on average) in the UK, but some crags (such as Portland or Lower Pen Trwyn or some Welsh slate) are almost entirely bolt-protected. Arguments about bolts are unceasing on climbing discussion boards, and outside too. Bolts are the "murderers of the impossible" according to Reinholt Messner, but it's unarguable that sport climbing has played a key part in pushing climbing standards.

BOLT LADDER. A sequence of bolts used to overcome a blank section of rock.

BOMBER, BOMBPROOF. (Of holds, or gear) very good; could withstand the fabled bomb hitting them.

BOULDERING. Relatively low height climbing, often very technical, usually solo. Usually climbing is on boulders (hence the name), but the more technical starts of routes are often "bouldered" as well, without ropes or protection, except for a bouldering mat. [Lindsay Davies]

BOULDERING MAT. A mattress sized foam block for protecting falls while bouldering (and sometimes climbing). [Lindsay Davies]

BOWLINE. A knot, used as an alternative to the figure of eight to attach the rope to your harness. When used in the "double" form, three loops are created, allowing the raising or lowering of an injured casualty. The knot is more complicated to tie than the figure of eight (and so easier to tie wrongly, which can be disastrous) but some climbers prefer its increased secureness. Also easier to untie after having been loaded (by falling or toproping) than the figure of eight. See this page for a picture [link opens in new window]. [Adam Palmer]

BREAK. A horizontal crack.

BRIDGE. To climb a route by applying equal pressure with the feet and hands in opposite directions on opposing pieces of the rock face. Useful in chimneys, corners and grooves.

BUCKET. A huge jug which the whole hand can grasp. If it arrives at the right time it is a thank god hold.

BULGE. A small rounded overhang.

BUTTRESS. A large protruding face or area of a crag.

CAMPUS BOARD. Overhung board with thin (one joint or so) wooden holds; meant to be ascended without using the feet. Can destroy tendons astonishingly fast. The acme of achievement is "1-5-9" (double-handed dynos from the first to fifth to ninth hold).

CAMPUSING. Ascending a route (usually overhung) using only the hands, in the style of one training on a campus board. Can be used as a training technique and also for impressing the girls... [Wendy Allison]

CHIMNEY. A crack wide enough to fit your whole body into.

Bouldering mats

CHALK. White stuff (magnesium carbonate, in fact) intended to keep hands dry, though "to keep holds white" sometimes seems like a more realistic description. Not the same as teachers' chalk or gymnasts' resin.

CHEATING. In a "sport" which has no rules, and where death is always a distinct possibility, it's hard to say that cheating as such exists while on a route. Pulling on protection, falling off, escaping to another, easier route or simply retreating can all be wise in the event. These only become "cheating" if you deny them afterwards and inflate your claims, perhaps saying you flashed a route when in fact you fell, or rested on the gear. Even this can be irrelevant ... nobody cares if you made it up that HVS cleanly except, apparently, you ... unless such claims could endanger others. Honesty is thus highly prized among climbers, and the suggestion that someone did not climb a route cleanly or never reached the top is a great insult. With no rules, climbing relies on a web of ethics; without trust, the enjoyment goes. OK?

CHICKENHEAD. American term for small lump of intrusive rock which sticks out of a slab. [Richard Furlong]

CHIPPING. The artificial manufacturing of holds where none exist, or the wilful enlarging of existing holds. Punishable by being banished to Holland which is completely flat and has no decent rocks, once the people who caught you let you out of hospital.

CHOCKSTONE. A piece of rock which is jammed immovably in a crack. Can be used as a hold or threaded.

CLASSIC ABSEIL. An abseil performed without the use of harness and descender. Painful in shorts and t-shirt, expensive in new Goretex. [Hil McMillan]

CHOSS. Soil, dirt, rubble, stones, vegetation, in fact anything other than good clean stable rock. [Lindsay Davies]

CLEANING. The act of removing loose rock, plant life and gravel from a route which if left in situ would render the route unsafe for you, your second or both. Enthusiastic cleaning is hard to distinguish from chipping.

CLOVE HITCH. A twin loop knot, used when the force exacted on each side of the knot is considered to be equal, Some use this knot in conjunction with two half hitches or thumb knots to form the basis of a ground ancher. Often used when placings for gear-based anchors are missing, or to tie off ropes (say, doubled back from a belay anchor). See this page [link opens in new window] for a picture. [Adam Palmer]

COMBINED TACTICS. A Victorian climbing term which involves the leader standing on the shoulders of the second in order to start the pitch. Often useful with Northumberland VS routes. [Richard Furlong]

CORNER. The inverse of an arête; like the crease of an open book. The most beautiful example in the UK is Dinas Cromlech, cleaved at 90 degrees. A really deep groove is indistinguishable from a corner.

CRACK. A split or fissure in the rock face. Horizontal cracks are known as breaks; wide cracks may be offwidths or chimneys. A very thin crack that will not easily take protection is known as a seam; it may take a piton.

CRAG. Any large expanse of rock.

CRATER. The act of decking out. Not recommended. [Louis Joyce]

A crack

CRIMP. A small hold onto which you can just get the ends of your fingers (or toes!).

CRUX. The hardest move on a pitch or the hardest pitch on a climb.

DEAD ROPE. The slack rope from the belay device, as opposed to the Live Rope on the other side of the belay device that goes to the climber. It is critical that at least one hand is firmly kept on the Dead Rope at all times. With no hands on the Dead Rope it can quickly turn into the 'Death Rope'. [Steve Payne]

DECKING OUT. Falling and hitting the ground, usually hurting oneself, through lack of protection. Not recommended. Also known as a Desmond (geddit?).

DEEP WATER SOLOING A climb carried out on a cliff that is situated above the sea. Done without gear as the decking out is reduced in sting by landing in the deep water. [Louis Joyce]

DESCENDER. A friction device used when abseiling, such as a figure eight or a Sticht plate. [Mike Swann]

DESPERATE. The sort of route (or section of route) involving lots of adventure climbing and very little in the way of protection or holds. Usually involves a lot of swearing, anxiety and RPs. [Dave Sheffield]

DIHEDRAL. American phrase for an open book formation such as Dinas Cromlech; known at home as a corner. [Robin Mueller]

DISCO LEG. Uncontrollable shaking of one or both legs on a climb. Curable by pushing the heel of the leg downwards while the toe stays on the rock. Usually indicates imminent retreat, either voluntary or gravity-assisted.

DOGGING. Trying and failing to cleanly ascent a route - falling or resting on the rope one or more times, optionally using the gear that has been put in to pull oneself up to a previous high point. See cheating. Can also mean any attempt to get up a route which involves hanging off the gear without returning to the ground (the latter being yo-yoing).

DOING AN ELVIS. See disco leg. [Bug Mitchell, Wendy Allison]

DYNAMIC ROPE. A rope that allows some stretch when loaded. This reduces the shock-loading to the system (and the climber), and therefore improves safety. As opposed to a static rope. [Lindsay Davies]

DYNO. A dynamic move (jumping) for an out-of-reach hold. Fun to try at the climbing wall, scary outside on lead. [Hil McMillan]

ELIMINATE. A route that doesn't take the most obvious line. Often a route between two obvious lines. [Lindsay Davies]

ETHICS. The informal rules that govern how climbers climb and how they talk and write about their climbs. Rules of conservation preserve the natural environment of the rocks ("don't climb on Mississippi Buttress when the ring ouzels are nesting"); access to the rocks ("ask the military before climbing in firing ranges"); and the rocks themselves ("don't climb on sandstone in nailed boots"); the rule of honesty - always report your style of ascent - allows climbers to compare their abilities; and rules of style preserve the possibility of failure. Without the rules of style every climb could have a bolt every metre and every ascent could use aid when it got too hard. But then where would the challenge and interest be? To have challenge, you must have uncertainty, and that means denying yourself technical aids. Styles of ascent include aid climbing, yo-yoing, pinkpoint, redpoint, traditional1, flash, headpoint, onsight, and solo. See also cheating.

ÉTRIER. A small rope ladder, usually made of tape, used in aid climbing.

EXCITING. Guidebook speak for both bold and difficult. At some point before an "exciting" move you will have a brief meditation on life, and how it might shortly be coming to an end. The best way to tackle such moves is actually not in an excited frame of mind, but rather calmly. [Tony Buckley]

EXPANDING FLAKE. A flake that moves when pulled on, or which looks as if it might move or even detach completely if pulled hard enough (for example, by falling onto a Friend placed behind it).

EXPOSED. The kind of position where you suddenly realise how far away the ground has become; a route or move that takes you into such a position. [Tony Buckley]

EXTENDER. A quickdraw.

FALL FACTOR. A number describing the severity of a fall, calculated by dividing the distance fallen by the length of rope between the falling climber and the belay. The forces involved in a fall are roughly proportional to the climber's weight and the fall factor.

FIGURE EIGHT. A descender or belay device, named for its shape, and very popular on the Continent and with sport climbers. Its low friction means that it needs more expert handling than a Sticht plate or gri-gri. Sometimes used to mean figure of eight.

FIGURE OF EIGHT. The most commonly used knot to attach a climber to the rope. (Strictly, it is a rethreaded figure of eight.) Solid, unlikely to slip, easy to teach and learn, and easy to see when it is tied wrongly.

FIGURE OF FOUR. Peculiar climbing move which you won't believe until you see or try it. Essential when you have a brilliant handhold but absolutely no footholds. With one hand on the hold, wrap the opposite leg over the holding wrist. With a good enough hold and enough flexibility, you can get the thigh over the wrist. From here it is possible to reach up to higher holds. Preferable to a dyno if the higher hold is not very good, as it keeps the body close to the wall. Most useful on vertical or overhanging routes. Increasingly used by competition ice climbers, who put their leg over their embedded ice axe.

FINGERBOARD A large piece of wood with individual strips of wood attached. Used by experienced climbers to increase the strength in their fingers by doing pull ups and moves without the aid of their feet. Potentially very bad for finger tendons and ligaments if tried when not completely warmed up. [Louis Joyce]

FLAG. To stick a foot out sideways for balance, especially when stopping yourself from barn dooring.

FLAKE. A partially detached section of rock which will often yield good holds along its detached edge. Beware! Some flakes are expanding.

FLAPPER. Horrible little loose bit of skin that hangs off your fingers, invariably following intense bouldering on sharp rock such as greywacke (eg. Baring Head). [Wendy Allison]

FLASH. To climb a route without practice (but perhaps with beta) without falls on the first viewing and first attempt. (This is very similiar to onsight, which is even purer: no beta.) Opinion is divided as to what constitutes beta: to some people, even knowing the route's grade makes an ascent a flash rather than an onsight. Also sometimes prepended to "git" when someone achieves this feat. [Adam Palmer]

FLEXIBLE FRIEND. A friend whose long thin stem (between the business end inserted into the rock, and the end where you attach your karabiner and rope) is made of wire cable instead of solid metal. If you fall off, the stem can bend, rather than being stressed over any protruding bits of rock.

A figure of 4

FLYING LESSON. What a light-weight second gets when he hasn't anchored himself and his heavier leader takes a fall. [Mike Swann]

FREE CLIMBING. Progressing up a route by using your body rather than the gear. [Martin Brierley]

FRIEND. Brand name for the first make of spring loaded camming device, originally patented by Ray Jardine in 1978 (US patent 4,184,657) and now manufactured by Wild Country; loosely, any brand of SLCD. Its invention revolutionised rock climbing because it meant that climbs with parallel cracks could be protected.

GARDENING. Cleaning a potential route in such an aggressive manner that it verges on chipping.

GASTON. Also known as the "lift-opener". Inelegant but sometimes necessary manoeuvre where the fingers of both hands are placed in a crack as if to pull it apart by brute strength. Very tiring; hard to stay balanced. Can be required in shallow cracks where there is no chance of jamming or laybacking for some reason. Named after French climber Gaston Rébuffat.

GEAR. See protection.

GRADE. How difficult it is to climb something. A complete discussion of grades is far beyond this article (see instead our articles on English grading and Bouldering grading). Grades and grading systems are a source of constant dispute, even more than bolts, despite the fact that all climbs fall into two categories: can do and can't do.

GRI-GRI. A belay device which automatically locks when the leader of a climb pulls very hard on the rope. This can happen when they fall off, and less conveniently when they urgently need some extra rope.

GRIPPED. Terrified, unable to move, gripping the rock for dear life.

GRITSTONE RASH. Obvious hand injuries caused by jamming on God's own rock. [Hil McMillan]

GROOVE. Not foot-tapping rhythmic music, but rather, a long indentation in the rock face which is neither deep enough to be a crack nor defined enough to be a corner .

GUIDEBOOK SPEAK. The idiosyncratic language of climbing guides: bold, delicate, exciting, interesting, thoughtful, traditional2.

HARNESS. Combination of waist loop and leg loops, with belay loop and gear loops that climbers wear when not soloing. Should be comfortable for hanging around at belays.

HELMET. Useful device for preventing head injury and for protecting sandwiches during the walk-in. [Hil McMillan]

HEADPOINT. A traditional1 route which is led after (toprope) practice, sometimes with preplaced protection. Sometimes thought to be a modern affliction for routes over E8, though it was clearly already in use in Joe Brown's day in the 1950s; see the first ascent description for Brown's Eliminate (E2 5b), which talks of careful practice in the days of nailed boots. The traditional equivalent of a redpoint. [Michele McIntyre, Wil Treasure]

HEEL HOOK. The act of bringing one of your feet up to chest height and 'hooking' it onto a hold. Good for reaching otherwise out-of-reach holds with your free hand. Suppleness usually a help. [Louis Joyce]

HEX. Not a spell, but a hexagonal-shaped aluminium piece of protection. Very effective in a crack or a break, though many people A heel hook

nowadays prefers friends to do the same job. (But a hex costs half as much as a friend.) Also known as a cowbell, for the noise that a collection makes on a climber's harness.

HIGHBALL. (American) term used to describe higher and more serious bouldering problems. [Robin Mueller]

HOLD. Any feature of the natural rockface which assists the climber's upward motion.

IN SITU. Latin for "in place". Guidebooks always recommend that you back up a piece of in situ protection (such as a piton or sling) with separate protection of your own. This is usually also impossible, as the reason the in situ gear was put there was because there the first ascensionist had no other option.

ITALIAN HITCH. Knot used to belay or abseil. Also known as a Münter hitch. Recommended when you have dropped your Sticht plate down the crag. Not recommended for multiple abseils as it twists the rope.

INTERESTING. Guidebook speak for puzzling, often extremely so. The reverse applies for spectators. Sometimes (sloppily) used interchangeably with exciting, so beware. [Tony Buckley]

JUG. An excellent handhold.

JAMMING. The best forgotten art. The technique of inserting part (or all) of the body into a crack to make progress. Thin cracks take fingers, wider cracks take hands and fists, and feared offwidth cracks devour arms, shoulders, knees, feet and legs and spit them out covered with gritstone rash.

KARABINER. An oval metal hoop with a springloaded "gate". Rope and protection are attached to karabiners. Also known as a "krab". Karabiners come in many forms, and arguments about which is best occupy many hours in gear shops.

LAYAWAY. A technique for climbing on sidepulls where you lean away from the hold to improve your grip. (It really doesn't matter if it's raining or if it's fine just as long as you've got time to layaway-away-way layaway lay-lay-away way lay away layaway.)

LAYBACK. A technique for climbing on sidepulls (holds that point sideways, especially one edge of a crack or one side of an arête) by using legs and arms in opposition: pushing legs in one direction while pulling on the handholds in the other.

LEADER. The person going up the route first; the one who solves the conundrum of "how do you get the rope up there then?". Is followed by the second. Hence "lead a route" and "leading a route".

LIVE ROPE. The rope leading to the climber from the belay device (set link to belay device) is the Live Rope. As opposed to the slack rope on the other side of the belay device, this is referred to as the Dead Rope. [Steve Payne]

MANTELSHELF. American (mis)spelling of mantleshelf.

MANTLE. Short for mantleshelf.

MANTLESHELF. Technique used to establish yourself on a ledge below a blank piece of rock. Colin Kirkus used to practise the move on his mantleshelf at home, which he recommended as a good way of getting rid of fragile unwanted presents from female relatives. If you've never seen a mantleshelf because you live in a modern house with central heating, try visualising the stylish way of getting out of a swimming pool. [Tony Buckley]Also: a move in which the climber attempts to stand on the same horizontal surface their hands are holding. Various techniques are possible, most amusing (and last desperate resort of an exhausted traditional1 leader) being the bellyflop. Used most often during topping out. [Robin Mueller]

MARE. "Having a mare" is having major issues when halfway up a route. [Bug Mitchell]

MONODOIGT. A small pocket, big enough for one finger. Virtually useless to all but the most talented in other words.

NORTHUMBERLAND VS. A sandbag with the hard moves at the start based on the fact that all routes in Northumberland are graded to exclude the first 10 feet. Thus a Northumberland VS may have 3 moves of 6c to start and still be a VS under their grading system. [Richard Furlong]

NUT. The simplest form of protection. A metal wedge threaded on steel wires, intended to go into cracks and stay there. The name comes from the practice of 1950s climbers, who used motorcycle nuts.

NUT KEY. Thin tool with a hooked end used by a second for removing gear, especially nuts, jammed into cracks. For a few pictures, see this Google image search. [Brian Grey, on his first visit to the site - how did everyone else miss this one for so long?!]

OFFWIDTH. The most awkward width of crack: too wide for fist jamming, but too narrow to chimney. Exotic techniques for climbing them include hand stacks, heel-toe locks, knee bars, "chicken wings", and "Leavittation", but most climbers prefer to grunt, swear and thrash around, which we are reliably informed does no good at all.

ONSIGHT. To climb a route free with no beta, without falls, without prior inspection, from bottom to top. The "purest" way to do a route. (The ultra-pure onsight is done nude, possibly at night.) [Adam Palmer.] Any route which is led first time, with no falls. To be a true onsight the climber must not have seen anyone else perform the moves. [Wil Treasure]

OVERHANG. An area of the rock face where the top protrudes further than the bottom thus allowing gravity to come into play to an even greater degree than usual. Requires good technique to overcome. An ideal area for decking out, if it's close enough to the ground and that's your thing.

PEG. A piton.

PENDULUM. 1. swinging on a length of rope in order to obtain a distant hold: a facet of aid climbing; 2. falling after climbing far to the left or right of the last runner, causing a swing. [Martin Brierley]

PIECE. Item of protection; the phrase "piece of protection" is often shortened just to "piece" (as in "That's the last piece before the top").

PITCH. A section of a climb, or the whole thing. Some climbing is "single-pitch", and some is "multi-pitch". Both versions require a good belay at the top; multi-pitch routes require good belays between pitches.

PINKPOINT. To climb a bolted route after inspecting it, placing all of the quickdraws and maybe practicing individual moves on a toprope. [Michele McIntyre]

PITON. Piece of metal which can be hammered into a crack to act as protection. The end of the piton has an eye where a karabiner can be clipped. In Britain, "knife blade pitons" are most often encountered in seams that are too thin or the wrong shape to take a nut, but they go up in size through "right angle pitons" to massive "bongs". Often found on sea cliffs, where their trustworthiness is in inverse proportion to how badly you need them.

PINCH. Like a sidepull but with two sides; that is, a hold which can be pinched between thumb and finger.

An offwidth

PLACEMENT. The place in the rockface (or sometimes things like trees growing off it) where protection is actually placed. The ideal is a sinker. Choosing among different alternatives, and finding the best and most efficient placements (in time taken to place them, gear required and final bombproofness) distinguishes the good leader from the bad or average.

POCKET. A hole in the rock face which can be used as a hold. See also monodoigt and bucket. The next up from this is probably "cave"!

PRO. Short for protection.

PROBLEM. Natural or artificial (especially at a wall or when bouldering) layout of holds presenting an obstacle between you and the top. Usually requires more than brute force to overcome.

PROTECTION. Also known as gear, The devices that climbers use to prevent themselves from decking out.

PRUSIK (noun) A piece of cord which is wound around the rope and grips when weighted. Can be used as an ascender or to safeguard an abseil. See this page for a picture [link opens in new window]. (verb) To ascend the rope using prusiks. [Hil McMillan]

PUMP. The extreme forearm fatigue (caused by buildup of lactic acid in the muscles) that is your body's way of telling you go to the pub, or that you've been to the pub too often recently. So-called because your forearms feel as though they've been pumped up, or had wet concrete poured into them which has set. [Tony Buckley]

QUICKDRAW. Two snap-gate karabiners linked by a short sling equals one quickdraw. Used to connect protection to the rope when leading a traditional1 route, or to clip bolts when sport climbing.

RACK. A collection of gear, usually attached to loops on a harness.

RAMP. A rising diagonal piece of rock, usually used for foot holds.

REDPOINT. Leading a bolted route after inspecting it, and maybe after practising individual moves on a toprope. Originally, if the quickdraws were preplaced, this would be called a pinkpoint; for a redpoint, the leader would have to place the quickdraws as they went. However, preplaced quickdraws have now become the norm and now would be known as a redpoint. [Michele McIntyre] Derived from German Rotpunkt. The word came in to common usage in the Frankenjura in the 1970s: it originated from the practice of painting a small red circle at the bottom of a climb that had been climbed without aid. Kurt Albert and others started the trend. [Julian Mecklenburgh] A sport route which is led after watching others, rehearsing moves on toprope, or simply any sport lead where moves have been done before (in the event of a fall). See also cheating, headpoint. [Wil Treasure]

RIPPED. (1) v. "His gear ripped out" - means that protection placed by a climber (generally, the leader)) pulled out of the places where it was put. This can be either because the placements were bad, or the forces on the gear when the rope came tight actually pulled it upwards, lifting the gear out - which in effect is "bad placement". (To avoid this, the first piece of protection placed on a pitch should be able to take an upward as well as downward, and directly outward, force. [Michele McIntyre](2) adj. A "ripped" person has extremely low body fat and visiblly superior muscle definition, usually on their back, abdomen, shoulders and/or arms. Ripped indivuals are commonly spotted at climbing walls or bouldering crags with their tops off strutting their stuff. [Patricia Novelli]

ROCKOVER. Complex but enormously satisfying move that requires pushing the bodyweight over one raised knee in order

A rockover move

to reach up to a handhold that is otherwise out of reach. Quintessential routes requiring rockovers: Downhill Racer at Froggatt, Void at Tremadog.

ROCK RASH. Severe allergic reaction caused by poor technique. The more common form of gritstone rash. [Tony Buckley]

ROOF. The steepest kind of overhang.

ROPE. The thing which (we hope) separates you from decking out and the consequent trip to the hospital or the next world. Will treat you as well as you treat it, except it won't send you flowers in hospital. Or to your funeral. Comes in two flavours, static and dynamic: you want a dynamic one if you're leading. (It's springy.) Also comes in two varieties, dry and, um, not dry: the dry one stays drier (in, say, winter climbing).

RP. A tiny nut on wire designed to fit in the tiniest of cracks where standard nuts are too fat. Being tiny, it won't (one thinks) take a big fall, which makes doing a route that needs RPs for protection a mental game too. RPs are so named because they are hand-made by Rowland Pauligk, who designed them for the climbs in the Arapiles in Australia, where he climbs. He still makes them in his garage. And that's true.

RUNNEL. A groove in an otherwise featureless area of rock, cause by water erosion (or, in old quarries, by quarrymen drilling and inserting explosives). [Andrew Meldrum]

RUNNER. A point of protection that allows the free movement of the rope - unlike a tie off, or belay stance, both of which anchor it. [Martin Brierley]

RUN OUT (also RUNOUT). Leading high above your last piece of protection. As in: "You're getting very run out" and "That route has a long runout". [Andrew Wylie]

SANDBAG. (noun) A route whose grade belies its difficulty. This can be either because it is undergraded, or requires a trick move to overcome the crux. Or it's just more work than it looks. (verb) To point someone at a route that is a sandbag, saying things like "It's only HVS" (unsaid: but requires the skills of an E3 climber). While the grading may get sorted out over time, trick moves tend to keep their grade. Classic example: Verandah Buttress, Stanage (supposedly VD 5b, but harder than 5b!).

SCREAMER. A rather larger and faster than average leader fall. [Richard Furlong]

SEAM. A very thin crack, one too small for any protection wider than a knife blade piton.

SECOND. The person who belays the leader, and gets the fun of taking out their protection on the way up. Being the second is generally less dangerous than leading, because you have a rope above you; except on traverses, when it can open you up to big swings if you fall off and the leader has not put in enough protection.

SEND. American for "climb". Must have originated in California, though why and when is anyone's guess. Usage: "Dude, you really sent that problem." Generally applied to bouldering problems, to give some idea of intensity. Perhaps. Then again, perhaps they just found it easier to say.

SEQUENCE. Series of moves required to overcome a problem. [Tony Buckley]

SEWING MACHINE LEG. See disco leg. [Hil McMillan]

SHARP END. To be on the "sharp end" of the rope is to be the leader. [Hil McMillan]

SIDEPULL. A hold that points sideways; usually works best when used for some form of layback.

SINKER. A V-shaped groove in the rock, getting deeper further down, which is ideal for holding nuts placed as pro. Happily, water erosion has complied by producing such shapes in weathered rock over the millennia in countless locations.

SLAB. A generally flat expanse of rock face which is slightly to the relaxed side of vertical; often gives the illusion of being easy to climb. This impression usually comes unstuck about half way up, when you run out of protection and you get a bad attack of disco leg.

SLAP. Desperate grab for a handhold. Good climbers don't seem to do it when you watch them, but admit to it afterwards.

SLCD. Abbreviation for spring loaded camming device.

SLING. Loop of rope or tape, useful for racking gear or looping around chockstones for protection.

SLOPER. Sloping hold. Best use involves staying well below it. Good climbing involves being able to make the best possible use of slopers and crimps.

SMEARING. The technique of using the flat soles of the feet to apply direct pressure onto the rock where only extremely small holds or no holds at all exist. Heroes smear! (Except on gritstone, where everyone must.)

SOLO. To climb without ropes. High-risk; carries the near-certainty of decking out if you mess things up. Enormously satisfying when it works, though possibly not for observers. Americans call this "free soloing" to distinguish it from "roped soloing" (climbing on your own but using ropes).

SPORT. Short for sport climbing.

SPORT CLIMBING. Climbing on routes which use bolts.

[Missing photo!]

SPOT. To position yourself to catch, deflect or otherwise reduce the momentum of a falling soloist. Self-interest on the part of the spotter usually means the soloist is not too far off the ground at the time. The ideal spotter is fat, soft, slightly inflatable and can move very quickly into position. Most climbers aren't and can't, which is why bouldering mats are such big business. [Tony Buckley]

SPRAG. See thumb sprag.

SPRING LOADED CAMMING DEVICE. Friends were the first brand but there are many variations. An SLCD has four (in smaller versions, two or three) rounded cams which are forced apart by a spring. To place them you contract the spring, then release it, putting the cam faces into contact with the rock. It's impossible to believe they will work until you fall onto one, after which you use them relentlessly. However, SLCDs can exert huge sideways forces when fallen on: beware if you place one behind an expanding flake.

STATIC ROPE. Compared to a dynamic rope, a static rope does not significantly stretch when loaded. Used for abseiling, hauling or toproping; disastrous for leading because all the impact is transferred to the falling climber. [Lindsay Davies]

STEM. American for bridge. [Robin Mueller] Honestly, you'd think they were talking a whole different language or something.

STICHT PLATE. A belay device where the friction of passing the rope through two 180-degree turns holds the leader. Easy to use and teach.

STOMACH TRAVERSE. A belly traverse.

STOPPER KNOT. Or just "stopper"; a knot in the tail of a rope that prevents it from slipping through and keeps it out of the way. Used after tying the rope to your harness with a figure of eight, or on the your ropes before you abseil so you can't slip off the ends. Good stopper knots are the overhand and double overhand knots.

TAIL. The dangling end of rope left over after tying a knot. Tidy it away with a stopper knot.

TAPE. Long, thin, flat fabric. When made of Nylon or Spectra it is very strong and is used to make harnesses and slings.

TAPING UP Wrapping white gymnastic tape around the parts of the hand/fingers where friction usually causesGritstone rash. Mostly used forhand jammingin cracks.

TAT. Weather-beaten and ragged slings, left behind on belays, bolts, chockstones and threads. Often to be treated with extreme caution. On longer routes that you may have to abseil off, take up some tat with you that you can use for an anchor and leave behind, rather than leaving more expensive nuts etc. [Lindsay Davies]

THANK GOD HOLD. A hold that is reassuringly large and easy to rest on after a period of exciting climbing.

THREAD. A hole in the rock, or behind a chockstone, which can be used for protection by threading a sling through it. Also: the sling threaded through the hole. [Hil McMillan]

THRUTCH. A traditional2 technique marking the triumph of determination over style. Employed in chimneys, offwidths and other places you (or your clothes, or knees) would be better off avoiding. [Tony Buckley]

THUMB SPRAG. Esoteric technique of using any available edge in a crack. When a crack is too thin to actually fit the fingers in, you can still gain some purchase with thumb sprags (which, confusingly, also involve the fingers). For example, with the right hand, make a half-fist. Now push the four fingers against the right-hand (nearer your wrist) side of the crack, and the thumb against the left-hand side. Amazingly, this can work at least to keep you on balance. Requires very strong hands to be used for any length of time.

TOPPING OUT. Reaching the top of the climb and clambering stylishly onto the top of the crag whilst the camera shutters click below. Alternatively a desperate and undignified scramble for the top of the climb using arms, legs, belly, teeth, rope, gear and anything else which will assist the process. Delete as appropriate.

TOPROPE. To climb with a rope above you, usually attached to a belay at the top of the climb, thus avoiding the difficulties, dangers and delights of leading.

TRAD. Short for traditional1.

TRADITIONAL1. Climbing where the leader places protection as they go up.

TRADITIONAL2. In guidebook speak, a route climbed a long time ago, often a sandbag or a thrutch.

TRAVERSE. To move across the rock, left, right or possibly diagonally in either direction, rather than directly upwards.

UDGE. When you are at the limits of desperate climbing and you just need a little more of this to succeed. It can be very frustrating when you run out of udge. See also thrutch. [Dave Sheffield]

UNDERCUT. An undercling.

UNDERCLING. A hold which must be grasped from its underside to be used to best effect.

WALL. A vertical piece of rock. If less steep it would be a slab; if steeper, an overhang.

WANGER. A huge fall. [Robin Mueller]

WIRE. Short for nut on wire. [Patricia Novelli]

WIRE BRUSHING. Cleaning the rock with a wire brush. Generally frowned on by the climbing community, apart from the selfish ones, because it damages the rock (especially gritstone, which often has a surprisingly thin protective layer but erodes rapidly when this is destroyed). [Robin Mueller]

WIRED. To have a route "wired" means to have its moves completely figured out, usually through practice or by watching someone else on it. [Patricia Novelli]

YO-YO. To climb a route in a style where, if you fall off, you return to the ground, leaving all your protection in place and then start climbing again after a rest. The yo-yo refers to the repeated up and down movement of the climber who falls off more than once on a hard move. A common style of ascent in the 1970s and early 1980s, before the preferred style became redpointing.

ZAWN. Small steep-sided channel of sea, the sides of which often provide climbing. Primary use is to get climbers wet by turning small waves into big ones and projecting them upwards. For added amusement, it is possible to jump or bridge across some (as in the route Kinkyboots at Baggy Point); however this is not recommended or even possible for others (such as Wen Zawn in Anglesey). [Crispin]

ZIPPER When all or most of the ill-placed protection comes away from the face of the climb by the leader when taking a fall. Usually results in a crater. [Louis Joyce]

ZONE(1) To be "in the zone" is to be in THE perfect mental state for climbing. Some climbers can consciously achieve this state through meditation. [Patricia Novelli](2) DEATH ZONE - above 8,000m. High-altitude mountaineers know this as the height above which there is not enough oxygen to keep the body alive; either bottled oxygen or remarkable fitness are needed to survive it.

A zawn