GPP Product Sheet Textiles - ecpar.org · European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3:...

� European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations

Textiles - GPP Product Sheet

This report covers all products covered by the European Ecolabel for textile products1, namely:Textile clothing and accessories: clothing and accessories (such as handkerchiefs, scarves, bags, shopping bags, rucksacks, belts etc.) consisting of at least 90 % by weight of textile fibres;Interior textiles: textile products for interior use consisting of at least 90 % by weight of textile fibres. Wall and floor coverings are excluded;Fibres, yarn and fabric: intended for use in textile clothing and accessories or interior textiles.For ‘textile clothing and accessories’ and for ‘interior textiles’: down, feathers, membranes and coatings need not be taken into account in the calculation of the percentage of textile fibres.

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1 Scope

Textiles Green Public procurement (GPP) Product Sheet

This product sheet forms part of the European Commission’s GPP Training Toolkit, which can be downloaded from the GPP website http://ec.europa.eu/environment/gpp/toolkit_en.htm. Similar product sheets have been established for 10 other product and service groups. More information on the reasons for selecting these criteria can be found in the detailed background report on the website.

For each product/service group two sets of criteria are presented:Core GPP criteria address the most significant environmental impacts, and are designed to be used with minimum additional verification effort or cost increases.Comprehensive GPP criteria are intended for use by authorities who seek to purchase the best environmental products available on the market, and may require additional administrative effort or imply a certain cost increase as compared to other products fulfilling the same function.

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1 Commission Decision of 15 May 2002 establishing the ecological criteria for the award of the Community eco-label to textile products and amending Decision 1999/178/EC.

�European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations


3For the Core criteria products meeting the listed criteria (which are based on the European Ecolabel for textiles) will comply with the specifications. Additionally award criteria have been included relating to the use of organically produced cotton and recycled fibres.

The Comprehensive criteria include some production process and fibre-specific criteria taken from the European Ecolabel in the specifications, with the use of organically produced cotton, recycled fibres and products meeting some additional European Ecolabel criteria being encouraged in the award phase.

� Key environmental impacts (in sense of environmental degradation)Impact GPP Approach

Air pollution, ozone formation (smog), bioaccumulation or food chain exposure and hazardous effects on aquatic organisms or the increased growth of undesirable aquatic organisms which can degrade water quality, due to the inappropriate use of certain pesticides and fertilisers in the production of fibres, and substances used during the processing of fibres and final textile products

Negative impact on the occupational health of users due to residues of certain substances harmful to human health

Purchase organically produced textiles

Purchase used textiles which can be used again for

their original purpose or purchase textiles that contain

recycled fibres

Purchase textiles with a reduced use of

environmentally harmful substances in production

Purchase textiles with lower residues of substances

harmful to human health

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European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations 3 European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations


3.1 Textiles - Core GPP criteria

3 Textiles - GPP criteria

Subject matterPurchase of textile products with low levels of toxic substances, with a preference for products with a low environmental impact during production and made from fibres produced with a minimum of pesticides.

Specifications

�. Pesticides: For products made from cotton or other natural cellulosic fibres, the final product shall not contain more than � ppm (parts per million) in total of the following substances:

• 2,4,5-T • Aldrin • Captafol • Chlordane• Chlordimeform• DDT• Dieldrin• Dinoseb and salts• Endrine• Heptachlor

Note: Most of these pesticides are already banned from placing on the market and use.

• Hexachlorobenzene• Hexachlorcyclohexane,α• Hexachlorcyclohexane,β• Hexachlorcyclohexane,δ• Metamidophos• Monocrotophos• Parathion• Parathion-methyl• Propethamphos• Toxaphene



• C.I.DisperseOrange1 C.I.11080• C.I.DisperseOrange3 C.I.11005• C.I.DisperseOrange11 C.I.60700• C.I.DisperseOrange37• C.I.DisperseOrange76(previouslydesignatedOrange37)• C.I.DisperseRed1 C.I.11110• C.I.DisperseRed11 C.I.62015• C.I.DisperseRed17 C.I.11210• C.I.DisperseYellow1 C.I.10345• C.I.DisperseYellow3 C.I.11855• C.I.DisperseYellow9 C.I.10375• C.I.DisperseYellow39• C.I.DisperseYellow49

2. Dye • Hexachlorobenzene • Hexachlorcyclohexane, α• Hexachlorcyclohexane, β• Hexachlorcyclohexane, δ• Metamidophos• Monocrotophos• Parathion• Parathion-methyl

2. Dyes classified as sensitising/allergenic, carcinogenic, mutagenic or toxic to reproduction: The following dyes shall not be used in the final product:

• C.I.BasicRed9 C.I.42500• C.I.AcidRed26 C.I.16150• C.I.BasicViolet14 C.I.42510• C.I.DirectBlack38 C.I.30235• C.I.DirectBlue6 C.I.22610• C.I.DirectRed28 C.I.22120• C.I. Disperse Blue 1 C.I: 64 500• C.I.DisperseBlue3 C.I.61505• C.I.DisperseBlue7 C.I.62500• C.I.DisperseBlue26 C.I.63305• C.I.DisperseBlue35• C.I.DisperseBlue102• C.I.DisperseBlue106• C.I.DisperseBlue124• C.I.DisperseBrown1

• C.I.DisperseOrange1 C.I.11080• C.I.DisperseOrange3 C.I.11005• C.I.DisperseOrange11 C.I.60700• C.I.DisperseOrange37• C.I.DisperseOrange76(previouslydesignatedOrange37)• C.I.DisperseRed1 C.I.11110• C.I.DisperseRed11C.I.62015• C.I.DisperseRed17C.I.11210• C.I.DisperseYellow1 C.I.10345• C.I.DisperseYellow3 C.I.11855• C.I.DisperseYellow9 C.I.10375• C.I.DisperseYellow39• C.I.DisperseYellow49

European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations 5 European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations


3. Arylamines: The final product shall not contain the following arylamines:

• 4-aminodiphenyl (CAS no. 92-67-1)• Benzidine (CAS no. 92-87-5)• 4-chloro-o-toluidine (CAS no. 95-69-2)• 2-naphthylamine (CAS no. 91-59-8)• o-amino-azotoluene (CAS no. 97-56-3)• 2-amino-4-nitrotoluene (CAS no. 99-55-8)• p-chloroaniline (CAS no. 106-47-8)• 2,4-diaminoanisol (CAS no. 615-05-4)• 4,4’-diaminodiphenylmethane (CAS no. 101-77-9)• 3,3’-dichlorobenzidine (CAS no. 91-94-1)• 3,3’-dimethoxybenzidine (CAS no. 119-90-4)• 3,3’-dimethylbenzidine (CAS no. 119-93-7)• 3,3’-dimethyl-4,4’-diaminodiphenylmethane (CAS no. 838-88-0)• p-cresidine (CAS no. 120-71-8)• 4,4’-methylene-bis-(2-chloraniline) (CAS no. 101-14-4)• 4,4’-oxydianiline (CAS no. 101-80-4)• 4,4’-thiodianiline (CAS no. 139-65-1)• o-toluidine (CAS no. 95-53-4)• 2,4-diaminotoluene (CAS no. 95-80-7)• 2,4,5-trimethylaniline (CAS no. 137-17-7)• 4-aminoazobenzene (CAS no. 60-09-3)• o-anisidine (CAS no. 90-04-0)

4. Flame retardants: The following flame retardants shall not be used in the final product:

• PBB (Polybrominated biphenyls) CAS no. 59536-65-1• pentaBDE (Pentabromodiphenylether) CAS no. 32534-81-9• octaBDE (Octabromodiphenyl ether) CAS no. 32536-52-9



5. Pentachlorophenol and tetrachlorophenol: For products made from cotton or other natural cellulosic fibres, the final product shall not contain more than 0.5 parts per million) of pentachlorophenol.Note: Pentachlorophenol is already banned from pesticide applications in the group of plant protection products and severely restricted for other pesticide applications including biocides applications.

6. Phthalate softeners: For products that come into direct contact with the skin the following phthalate softeners shall not make up more than 0.1% by weight of the final product:• DEHP (Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-phthalate) CAS no. 117-81-7• BBP (Butylbenzylphthalate) CAS no. 85-68-7• DBP (Dibutylphthalate) CAS no. 84-74-2

7. Formaldehyde: The amount of free and partly hydrolysable formaldehyde in the final product shall not exceed 70 ppm for products that come into direct contact with the skin and 300 ppm for all other products.

8.Heavymetals:TheamountofCadmium(Cd),Chromium(Cr),Nickel(Ni),Lead(Pb),Copper(Cu)inthefinalproductshallnotexceed:• Cadmium(Cd):0.1ppm• Chromium(Cr):2.0ppm• Nickel(Ni):4.0ppm Lead(Pb):1.0ppm• Copper(Cu):50.0ppm

Verification:AllproductscarryingtheEUEcolabelfortextileswillbedeemedtocomply.Otherprivateornationaltextilelabelsfulfillingthelistedcriteriacanalsobeaccepted.Anyotherappropriatemeansofproof,suchasatechnicaldossierofthemanufactureroratestreportfromarecognisedbodywillalsobeaccepted.

European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations � European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations


Award criteriaAdditional points will be awarded for:

Organically produced cotton or other natural fibres Bidders must indicate the proportion of cotton or other natural fibres used in the final product by weight deriving from organic production. To be considered as such the crop at the origin of the fibre must be produced in compliance with Regulation (EC) No 83�/�007. Verification: The supplier must provide evidence of the origin of the fibres used and the organic nature of their production, such as the EU organic logo or approved national logos for organic production.

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Recycled fibresBidders must indicate the proportion of the product by weight made of recycled fibres, i.e. fibres originating only from cuttings from textile and clothing manufacturers or from post-consumer waste (textile or otherwise). Verification:The supplier must provide evidence of the origin of the recycled fibres used.

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8European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations


3.� Textiles - Comprehensive GPP criteria

Subject matterPurchase of textile products with low environmental impact and levels of toxic substances, with a preference for products made from fibres produced with a minimum of pesticides.

Specifications

The products shall comply with the core criteria (listed above) :1.

Additional criteria (production process and fibre-specific criteria) based on the EU Ecolabel are also suggested. However, it is important to note that as there are currently few products on the market which carry the EU Ecolabel for textiles, the contracting authority should carry out a market search to check prices and availability before applying these criteria in the specifications. Alternatively they could be used as award criteria.

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�. Where the following fibres make up more than 5% by weight of the total weight of the textile fibres in the product, the relevant criteria of the EU Ecolabel must be met (full criteria document available at http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/oj/�00�/l_133/l_133�00�0518en00�900�1.pdf):

Acrylic (criterion 1).Cotton and other natural cellulosic side fibres (including kapok) (criterion �). Products deriving from organic production will be automatically deemed to comply.Elastane (criterion 3).Flax and other bast fibres (including hemp, jute and ramie) (criterion �).Greasy wool and other keratin fibres (including wool from sheep, camel, alpaca, goat) (criterion 5).Man-made cellulosic fibres (including viscose, lyocell, acetate, cupro, triacetate) (criterion �).Polyamide (criterion 7).Polyester (criterion 8).Polypropylene (criterion 9).

Verification:Bidders must provide a list of all fibres that make up more than 5% by weight of the total weight of the textile fibres in the product, together with appropriate documentation demonstrating that the relevant criteria are met. The EU Ecolabel will be accepted as proof of compliance, as will any other appropriate means of proof, such as a technical dossier of the manufacturer or a test report from a recognised body.

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European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations � European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations


Products must meet the following criteria of the EU Ecolabel related to chemicals and processing methods (full criteria document available at http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/oj/�00�/l_133/l_133�00�0518en00�900�1.pdf):

Auxiliaries and finishing agents for fibres and yarns (criterion 10).Auxiliary chemicals (criterion 1�).Detergents, fabric softeners and complexing agents (criterion 15).Bleaching agents (criterion 1�).Impurities in dyes (criterion 17).Impurities in pigments (criterion 18).Waste water discharges from wet-processing (criterion �7).

Verification:The EU Ecolabel will be accepted as proof of compliance, as will other private or natinal textile labels fulfilling the listed criteria, as well as any other appropriate means of proof, such as a technical dossier of the manufacturer or a test report from a recognised body.

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Award criteriaAdditional points will be awarded for:

Organically produced cotton or other natural fibres Bidders must indicate the proportion of cotton or other natural fibres used in the final product by weight deriving from organic production. To be considered as such the crop at the origin of the fibre must be produced produced in compliance with Regulation (EC) No 83�/�007. Verification: The supplier must provide evidence of the origin of the fibres used and the organic nature of their production, such as the EU organic logo or approved national logos for organic production.

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Recycled fibres Bidders must indicate the proportion of the product by weight made of recycled fibres, i.e. fibres originating only from cuttings from textile and clothing manufacturers or from post-consumer waste (textile or otherwise). Verification: The supplier must provide evidence of the origin of the recycled fibres used.

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Explanatory notes

• Award criteria: Contracting authorities will have to indicate in the contract notice and tender documents how many additional points will be awarded for each award criterion. Environmental award criteria should, altogether, account for at least 10 to 15 % of the total points available.

3.3 Textiles - Explanatory notes

10European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations


European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations �� European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations


� Relevant EU legislation and information sources

Council Regulation (EEC) No �09�/91 of �� June 1991 on organic production of agricultural products: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/consleg/1991/R/01991R�09�-�00005�7-en.pdf

Council Regulation (EC) No 83�/�007 of �8 June �007 on organic production and labelling of organic products and repealing Regulation (EEC) No �09�/91: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/oj/�007/l_189/l_189�00707�0en000100�3.pdf

Council Directive of �7 July 197� on the approximation of the laws, regulations and administrative provisions of the Member States relating to restrictions on the marketing and use of certain dangerous substances and preparations (7�/7�9/EEC): http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/consleg/197�/L/0197�L07�9-�0030�15-en.pdf

(Impregnating chemicals) Council Directive 79/��3/EEC of �� July 1979 supplementing the Annex to Council Directive 7�/7�9/EEC on the approximation of the laws, regulations and administrative provisions of the Member States relating to the restrictions on the marketing and use of certain dangerous substances and preparations: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=CELEX:31979L0��3:EN:HTML

(Impregnating chemicals) Council Directive 83/��/EEC of 1� May 1983 amending for the fourth time Directive 7�/7�9/EEC on the approximation of the laws, regulations and administrative provisions of the Member States relating to restrictions on the marketing and use of certain dangerous substances and preparations: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=CELEX:31983L0��:EN:HTML

(PentaDBE & octaDBE) Directive �003/11/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of � February �003 amending for the ��th time Council Directive 7�/7�9/EEC relating to restrictions on the marketing and use of certain dangerous substances and preparations (pentabromodiphenyl ether, octabromodiphenyl ether): http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/oj/�003/l_0��/l_0��0030�15en00�500��.pdf

(Azocolourants) Directive �00�/�1/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 19 July �00� amending for the nineteenth time Council Directive 7�/7�9/EEC relating to restrictions on the marketing and use of certain dangerous substances and preparations (azocolourants): http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/oj/�00�/l_��3/l_��3�00�0911en00150018.pdf

(Blue colourant) Commission Directive �003/3/EC of � January �003 relating to restrictions on the marketing and use of “blue colourant” (twelfth adaptation to technical progress of Council Directive 7�/7�9/EEC) (Text with EEA relevance): http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/oj/�003/l_00�/l_00��0030109en001�0015.pdf

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(Lead) Council Directive 89/�77/EEC of �1 December 1989 amending for the eighth time Directive 7�/7�9/EEC on the approximation of the laws, regulations and administrative provisions of the member states relating to restrictions on the marketing and use of certain dangerous substances and preparations: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=CELEX:31989L0�77:EN:HTML

(Cadmium) Council Directive 91/338/EEC of 18 June 1991 amending for the 10th time Directive 7�/7�9/EEC on the approximation of the laws, regulations and administrative provisions of the Member States relating to restrictions on the marketing and use of certain dangerous substances and preparations: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=CELEX:31991L0338:EN:HTML

(REACH) Regulation (EC) No 1907/�00� of the European Parliament and of the Council of 18 December �00� concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH), establishing a European Chemicals Agency, amending Directive 1999/�5/EC and repealing Council Regulation (EEC) No 793/93 and Commission Regulation (EC) No 1�88/9� as well as Council Directive 7�/7�9/EEC and Commission Directives 91/155/EEC, 93/�7/EEC, 93/105/EC and �000/�1/EC: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/oj/�00�/l_39�/l_39��00�1�30en000108�9.pdf

(REACH) Directive �00�/1�1/EC of the European Parliament and of the Council of 18 December �00� amending Council Directive �7/5�8/EEC on the approximation of laws, regulations and administrative provisions relating to the classification, packaging and labelling of dangerous substances in order to adapt it to Regulation (EC) No 1907/�00� concerning the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) and establishing a European Chemicals Agency: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/oj/�00�/l_39�/l_39��00�1�30en0850085�.pdf

Council Directive 9�/�1/EC of �� September 199� concerning integrated pollution prevention and control: http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/consleg/199�/L/0199�L00�1-�00�0��-en.pdfCommission Decision of 15 May �00� establishing the ecological criteria for the award of the Community eco-label to textile products and amending Decision 1999/178/EC (�00�/371/EC): http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/site/en/oj/�00�/l_133/l_133�00�0518en00�900�1.pdf

Revision of the Textile Eco-label – Draft final report, July 13th �007, produced by Asqual

Worldwatch Institute: http://www.worldwatch.org

US Environment Protection Agency (EPA): http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/about/index.htm (Handbook of Sustainable Textile Purchasing: http://www.eco-forum.dk/textile-purchase/index.htm

Danish experience. Best Available Techniques - BAT - in the clothing and textile industry. Document prepared for the European IPPC Bureau and the TWG Textile by the Danish Environmental Protection Agency (�00�): http://www�.mst.dk/udgiv/publications/�00�/87-797�-009-0/pdf/87-797�-010-�.pdf

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European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations �3 European Commission GPP Training Toolkit - Module 3: Purchasing recommendations


The Deadly Chemicals in Cotton, a Report by the Environmental Justice Foundation in collaboration with the Pesticide Action Network UK: http://www.ejfoundation.org/pdf/the_deadly_chemicals_in_cotton.pdf

Öko-Tex Standard 100: http://www.oeko-tex.com/xdesk/ximages/�70/1��59_100def�007.pdf

Öko-Tex Standard 1000: http://www.oeko-tex.com/xdesk/ximages/�70/155�0_1000-DEF.pdf

Swan labelling of textiles, skins and leather: http://www.svanen.nu/Default.aspx?tabName=CriteriaDetailEng&menuItemID=705�&pgr=39

Bra Miljöval: Environmental Criteria for Textiles: http://www.snf.se/pdf/bmv/bmv-textiles-crit.pdf

EKU criteria for textiles and leather: http://www.msr.se/en/green_procurement/criteria/Furnishing-and-textiles/

Study on costs/benefits of Green public procurement in Europe, Öko-Institut & ICLEI �007: http://ec.europa.eu/environment/gpp/index_en.htm

Accelerating the Development of the Protective Textiles Market in Europe - Report of the Taskforce on Protective Textiles. Composed in preparation of the Communication “A Lead Market Initiative for Europe” {COM(�007) 8�0 final}: http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/leadmarket/doc/prep_tex.pdf & http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/leadmarket/technical_textiles.htm;

http://www.biowerkstoffe.info/cms35/Archiv-Nachricht.100�+M515ffa81e5�.0.html & http://natureworks.texbase.com/approvedsuppliers/ suppliers.aspx & http://www.nnfcc.co.uk/metadot/index.pl?id=��00;isa=Category;op=show (all PLA-based textiles for various applications) & http://www.biowerkstoffe.info/cms35/Naturfasern.1308.0.html & http://www.eiha.org/ (for other natural fibres including especially hemp, flax)

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Toolkit developed for the European Commission by ICLEI - Local Governments for Sustainability, �008

Owner, Editor: European Commission, DG Environment-G�, B-10�9, BruxellesCredits: Picture courtesy of Fleur Suijten (StockXchng)

Disclaimer: The European Commission accepts no responsibility or liability whatsoever with regard to the information presented in thisdocument

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