56 Wanderlust August/September 2009

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Wanderlust August/September 2009 57

Access all areasTravelling with a wheelchair has its challenges – but follow accessible travel expert Gordon Rattray’s advice and you’ll have no shortage of adventure

Breathtaking is how I can best describe my visit to Ethiopia’s Blue Nile Falls. But it was the journey to reach this huge wall of

crashing white water that left me truly speechless.

The last kilometre – a rough footpath hewn through lush vegetation, dodging rocky outcrops and fallen trees – is not easy wheelchair terrain. I was struggling for balance and the guys helping me were tired of pushing and pulling, so a couple of boys were sent scampering barefoot to the nearest village for two long, strong bamboo poles. These were quickly lashed to the frame of my chair, the wheels were removed, and we set off with me bobbing along comfortably at waist height (pictured, above right).

Within minutes, an utterance in Amharic signalled yet another stop, then, without further warning, all four

‘bearers’ simultaneously heaved the poles up onto their shoulders sending me soaring skywards. My stomach caught up only seconds later and a feeble squeak of protest was all my shocked lungs could produce. Nevertheless, despite the vertigo, I soon got used to my heady perch, and would now recommend it for the thrill alone!

But don’t be misled; improvisation like this is unusual. Adventure travel is now a real option for all wheelchair users.

out of the comfort zoneForget feeling tied to a resort; consider instead being fastened to a bridge by a bungee cord then plummeting to certain terror. Or exploring the mind-boggling mountain ruins of Machu Picchu. Or going on safari into the wilds of Africa.

Operators in offbeat destinations are becoming aware that people with

impaired mobility want to see more than pool and bar, and are catering to them. Vehicles equipped with lifts and lodgings with roll-in showers can be found from Arusha to Ushuaia, while the power of the internet brings up-to-date information about such places – and their level of inclusion – into our living rooms.

That said, stepping – or rolling – out of the comfort zone is a gut-wrenching thought for many chair users, especially those who are new to this way of life. Even simple trips such as visiting friends or family can take great courage, so the very idea of an adventure holiday might seem like a distant dream – or a nightmare.

But it shouldn’t. Once that big decision to go has been made, it might be surprising how easily the rest falls into place. With each hurdle met and cleared, your confidence will be

boosted, making the next one easier. Furthermore, discovering – or rediscovering – your travel possibilities will not only be hugely rewarding in itself, but will fire enthusiasm and maybe stimulate change in many other areas of your life.

Meaningful encountersThere are even distinct advantages to having a disability; for instance, reliance on others can help bridge the gulf between us, as tourists, and them, the locals. I’m often forced to ask for assistance, and people, in turn, are interested to know what caused my injury and even why Western medicine can’t cure me. The chance of meaningful encounters and conversations is increased. This is especially true if you use a local assistant, where you will spend a lot of time together; your

relationship will lose a degree of its formality, becoming significantly more than the usual fleeting exchange of words and purchase of an artefact.

Of course there are limits, and surprising drawbacks. Being permanently seated does make you stand out more; although I believe this can actually help with personal security – pickpockets prefer obscurity – it can also lead to awkward moments. I remember sitting in Addis Ababa’s Mercato (sub-Saharan Africa’s largest market) wondering how to retrieve the cash I’d hidden in my socks without giving the hiding place away to the curious crowd that had gathered around me!

So does this all mean that travel for people with disabilities has been completely tamed? Certainly not – for those who crave challenge, undiluted

Ten Top Trips you CAn TAke

1eAsT AfriCAn sAfAri There are operators with accessible vehicles and

knowledge of adapted accommodation in all the major parks.

2AnCienT peru Explore Machu Picchu – you may need help to navigate the

steep stone stairways, but this is easily organised.

3 ViCToriA fAlls, ZAmbiA Few viewpoints are completely step-free,

but help is readily offered and surrounding activities – including rafting, helicopter flights and game drives – can all be adapted to accommodate limited mobility.

4GAlápAGos islAnds Rediscover the Darwin-

inspiring wildlife off mainland Ecuador. A professional kayaker accompanies trips in two-person kayaks, and a wheelchair-friendly guesthouse can be used in San Cristóbal.

5 pATAGoniA See the fjords and forests by light aircraft, and the ice floes of the

Beagle Channel by catamaran. Experienced operators use minibuses with ramps and hotels with step-free bathrooms.

6 AlAskA Navigate Alaska’s Glacier Bay by accessible boat, hopefully spotting

wolves and bears on the snow-clad mountains. A refitted ex-minesweeper operates in the region, with widened decks

and lifts – you can even be securely winched into a kayak!

7TAj mAhAl, indiA There is now gently ramped entry

into the mausoleum and wheelchairs are available.

8 down under With a few extra harnesses and a bit of

manhandling, Australia and New Zealand now include extreme sports – bungee jumping, jet boating and canyon swinging – on their list of accessible options.

9 snow sporTs Many resorts are completely inclusive and sit skis exist in

mono, bi or more stable ‘kart’ versions, allowing even high-level quadriplegics complete freedom.

10 world Cup 2010 Follow next year’s festival of football in South

Africa; an overland truck trip to Kruger and whale-watching on the south coast are just two of the most accessible post-tournament possibilities.

‘i sat in addis ababa’s market wondering how to retrieve the cash i’d hidden in my socks’

Above, left to right: Opportunities for adventure travel for wheelchair users – from Botswana’s Okavango Delta to Ethiopia’s Blue Nile Falls to bouncing on a bungee in New Zealand – are on the rise

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ÈTake my advice…

Monica Guy, former personal care assistant to

scientist Stephen Hawking

“If you’re on holiday with a disabled friend and

dying to do something they can’t – jet-skiing,

shark-diving or whatever – don’t deny yourself

the pleasure. Resentment rankles –

and selflessness is for saints,

not holidaymakers.”

First published in Wanderlust magazine Aug 09: www.wanderlust.co.uk

58 Wanderlust August/September 2009

Resources

adventure is always possible. But even here there are positives. Local hospitality, ingenuity and willingness to help always seem to increase the further you wander from the beaten path, meaning that even if the obstacles are greater, they are – as my Blue Nile Falls visit showed – often more easily dealt with.

the key issues – anD how to Deal with theM• Flying Most airports are extremely accessible, with trained assistance staff and narrow ‘aisle’ chairs for boarding the plane. Book these in advance and make sure your needs are known and

understood. In the airport, keep your own wheelchair until you board (this is usually possible), and in the aircraft replace the seat cushion (they’re usually just attached with velcro) with your own pressure-relieving model.• accommodation If possible, contact the accommodation or local operator directly for access information. But remember, it’s all too easy to answer “yes” to the simple question: “Is your bathroom accessible?” Instead, ask for descriptions, measurements and even photographs.• Planning If you need more time for the mundane daily tasks – ablutions, car transfers and general getting around – then ventilate your itinerary accordingly. Don’t be persuaded that the busiest trip is the best one.• insurance Make sure your insurance covers any pre-existing medical conditions you have plus all your equipment – including wheelchair – for your flight, your holiday duration and all activities you plan to undertake. • Packing Choose manageable luggage bags, pack frugally to keep weight down and look into sourcing bulky incontinence material in your destination. For the flight, it is wise to carry essential medicines and equipment in your hand luggage in case your main baggage is delayed.• equipment Carry the basic tools

required to service your wheelchair, but remember that these may be confiscated from hand luggage. Take a spare inner tube or consider using solid (puncture-proof) tyres. If necessary, you can transform your wheelchair into a temporary shower chair by removing the cushion cover and putting a bin liner over the backrest.• health Don’t take chances. Discuss your plans with a health advisor and be attentive to potential problems during your trip. Changing routines and doing new activities can increase risks of skin damage and pressure wounds. ▪

Got a Question? We’ll be holding an online

Q&A about disabled travel with author Gordon Rattray – for details, see www.wanderlust.co.uk/disabledtravel

Snow business: In the more-aware spots such as Sweden, sit skis enable wheelchair users to speed down the slopes

→ DisableD travellers

• Access Africa – Safaris for People with Limited Mobility (Bradt, 2009) the new book by Gordon Rattray, the author of this article• Barrier-Free Travel: A Nuts and Bolts Guide for Wheelers and Slow Walkers (Demos, 2009) by Candy Harrington; see barrierfreetravel.net• Easy Access Europe (Avalon Travel Publishing, 2006) by Rick Steves• There and Back (Radar, 2006) a travel guide for disabled people; see www.radar.org.uk• www.able-travel.com This site aims to make adventure travel easier for people with disabilities• www.globalaccessnews.com A site on which disabled travellers can share their experiences• www.youreable.com Forums, news, features, jobs and more• www.apparelyzed.com Peer support for those with spinal cord injury• www.flying-with-disability.org Information and advice for disabled people who travel by air• www.backuptrust.org.uk A charity running a range of services for people with spinal cord injury, as well as their friends and family

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ÈTake my advice…

Frank Gardner OBE, BBC Security Correspondent

“Plan ahead. Ring the airline, tell them what

you can and can’t do and what help you need in

getting to your seat. Personally, I refuse to let

airports corral me into some fenced-off

wheelchair ghetto. I travel light, hand baggage

only, with a smaller rucksack now than

I carried on my gap year!”

Frank’s book Far Horizons (Ebury, £18.99)

is out now