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Appendix A

GLOSSARY OF DEFECT TERMINOLOGYUSED IN THE GARMENT INDUSTRY

This gloeaary ba a been compi led as a reference to estab-lish a common language of defec t te rminology understand-.b l . . t o th e g ar m en t m an uf ac tu re r a nd t o his supplier. Theb re ak do wn o f t he categories is as follows:

I. Cutting Room DefoctaII . Sewing Room Defocta

I I I . Finishing Room DefoctaIV. Closure Defec ts

V. Thread DefecteVI. Interlining Defects

VII. Machinery Defecte

Inasmuch 8 S so many defects ca n be th e resu lt o f e rr or inmore than on e category, repetition of terms is unavoid-able. S ti ll a ga in . a s th e interpretation of th e defect causemay vary w it h t he i nd iv id ua l. fo r a complete u n d e r s t a n d ~ing, it is suggested t ha t aU sections possibly related bestudied. I t is recognized that many deiect terms l isted inth e glossary cannot readi ly be detected by aU manufac-turers; yet, their exclusion would make the: ~ l o 8 s a r yin-complete.

. A number of pbotographs have been included to illus-trate som e o f th e most obvious defects.

1.Glossary of Cutting Room Defect.s

P a t t e r n Grad ing DeCectl1. Grade Not Conforming to Specific3tion . measure-

ments):F in ished p roduct no t measuring to speciried dimensiaM an d component parts not t i t l ing in relationshipt o n ot ch es. o pe ni ng s ::md ! ea rn s s uc h as armholes.~ e e v eh e a d s ~neck b an da , n ec k o pe ni ng s. 3ide seams.mseaml5, walSt measurements an d etc.

2. Distorted Grading:Unbalanced patterns which would c au se t wi st ed5e8ms, puckering. p lea t ing an d a general uneconomica l y a r d a ~ ewaste.

Mark ing Defects

\. Shaded Parts:All component pans no t included in :iame section.

2. Pieces n o t S y mm e tr i ca l :Will no t se w together without puckering or pleating.

3. ~ o t Marked by Directional Lines:Bias will not lit together, causinq: t w i s t i n ~ .puckering.pleating an d a general m i s m a t c h i n ~0t" componentparts.

4. Skimpy :'vlarlring:Marker di d not use o u ~ i d epenmeter of pattern.Pattern moved after ' pa rt ia ll y m ar ke d to ti t intospace.

5. Notches and Punch Marks:L ef t o ut . nOt clearly m ar ke d o r m is pl ac ed .

.Ii. .Marker Too Wide:"P3 ' !U, . , i j J n o t C3tch In lay. causing skirnt'Y

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4. Mixed Plys:Results in mixed shades.

ke Of f and Bundl ing Defects. N o t S ta ck ed in Numerical Order:

Bundle numbers no t in order on rack. skid or box.

18. Wrong Sti tches Per Inch:N or ma ll y c au se d by operators who lengthen stitchto increase machine speed.

19. Skipped Sti tch .. :Caused. by machine malfunction or excessive needleheat due to friction.

40. Misloca ted Reinforcement :Where bartack or b rad not in proper !ocation.

If au lty m ac hi ne o r related eqwp

Hole:Damate caused byment.

Broken St it ches :O ft en t im es th e fault of wrong type of stitch fo rspecific seam const ruc t ion . Could be caused by ex cessive t ig ht ne ss i n m ac hi ne tensions.

Cloeures Omitted:Nonnal ly an oversight by o p er at o rs o r failure by in spectors.

Closures Misplaced.:Inattention or inexperience b y o pe ra ti ng per3onnel.or improper a li g nm e nt w it h gauges.

Finished Components Not :'v1easuring to Tolerances:C ou ld b e ca us ed by faulty pattern. cut t ing. previousoperations in ~ t i t c h i n gor by indifferent o p er at or a ttention to the specified tolerance.

Dimensions out of Tolerance:Same as above.

Notch . . Exposed:

Poor operator technique an d execu tion. in not coverin g n ot ch w it h seam.

Omission of An y Pan of Garment:Poor work flow, inattentive operator. wrong worktickets or poor inspect ion .

Twi st ed S ea m:Caused by im prop er a lig nm en t o f fabric pieces. un even te ns io n o r pu l l an plies being stitched.

Pieces Not Aligned:Pieces sewn t og et he r n ot m at ch ed to e ac h o th er.

Reversed. Pieces:Where piece is sewn with face side opposite fromspecification; where p ar t c ut fo r o ne sid e of garmentsewn in other.

Excesaive FUlln8SB:Caused w he re p ie ce surface not smoothed prior tostitching.

Uneven Edge:Where s t it c hi n g n o t straight or improperly formed increasing machine.

Ragged Edges:U su ally o cc urs w her e knives on automatic buttonhole machines do not d ip smoothly.

Uncut Buttonhole:

Where knife failed to cut buttonhoie.

United Stitch .. :Where t yi ng s ti tc he s on automatic machines fail tosecure.

22.

23.

20.

21.

25.

24.

29.

27.

26.

28.

30.

31.

33.

36.

34.

38.

Faulty Gauging:Where o pe ra to r h as ao t sewn seam to specifiedmargin.

Misaligned Closure:Closure components do no t line up .

Misplaced Component:Where part not posi t ioned accord ing '; 0 specific;ltIons.

39 . Misaligned Seam:Where seams .do not line up or cross specified point.

37 .

35 .

:32.

. Matching Lining5:Wrong size or wrong material.

n.Glossary of Sewing Room Defects

. SciMors o r Kn if e Cut:Self-explanatory ,

. Tear:Usually th e result of excessi"'e strain o r s na gg in g onmanufacturing machinery.

. N ee dl e C he w:Caused by use of \Vl'ong or blun t needle or machinefeeding difficulty.

Incor rec t Mater i al Shad ing :Where components do no t ma'tch exactly as to s ~ d e .

. Spots o.r Stains:Nonnalty th e result of a defective m ac hi ne o r a dir tywork area.

Loose Threads:Can b e c au se d either by malfonned stitching or poortrimming techniques.

Puckered Seams:An irregular s ea m s ur fa ce u su al ly caused by a) I n herent fabric characteristic, b) needle puncture.c) machine feed slippage or d) incorrect machine ap -plication.

. Pleated Seams:Caused by incorrect machine at tachments . machinesewing parts to o large o r s ma ll for fabric or seam desired. irregularly cut p at fe rn s o r fabric irregularitiesan d operator feeding fabr ic faster than nonnal feedinga ct io n o f th e machine.

. Thread Breaks:Wrong thread appl icat ion, gewing machine malfunct ion, de fect ive thread.

Insecure Backstitching:Original stitch row no t c ov er ed w it h s ec on d s ea m.

Wrong Shade of Thread:Either caused by basic pur.chasing error, manufacturing defect by thread 3upplier or operator selectingwrong c ol or f ro m thread bin.

rrngular Gauge of St i tching:Not wing correct. sewing machine or u sin g s in gl eneedle machine where a multiple needle machine isrequind.

O pe n S ea ms :Incon'8Ct folder or poor operator te ch ni que . Sometime. results f ro m p oo r s el ec ti on of type of seam forf ab ri c used or purpose of seam i n g ar me nt .

Ru n Off>:Openrtor no t fullowillg marking or not using mec!lan-ieal aids s uc h a s edge guides to assure uniform stitch-ing.

Wr on g S ea m or Stitch Type:Management error in select ion-or operating personnel failing to follow specifications.

Looee Thread Tension:TenaioDs n ot a dj us te d correctly by operator.

Ti gh t T h ra a d Tension:Same as above.

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-41. 'Uneven S t it ch:CaUMd by opera to r apeedinc up m a ch in e t oo r a p i ~ l yor by holding baclt or pusbiDg- fabric through mo.chinein variance with correct maChine feed.

42. Needle P ick:Failure of operator to replace a dull needle.

43. Caught Place:Where a c o m p o _ - p e t of a p n ; , . n t baa been caughtin an umelaW o _ t i l n L -

m.Glossary of FinishingD e p a r t m e n ~Defects

r in l ln ina DeCecta1. Thread not Trimmed or Threads no t Trimmed. to

Specified Length:Self-explanatory .

2. Cuts or Nicka:Caused by inditl'erent handling of sciaeors. snipe ormechanical trimmers. _

3. Seam Tean:Frequently caused by th e turning equipment used toreverse garments in finiabing.

4. -Soil:Caused by oil, greaIe or dirt. Often t ime. originatingfrom a dir ty work area or machinery no t properlycleaned.

5. Streaka:Markinp caused b y !lOme typ es o f turn boarda ordefectively finished t r imminp.

r - a i n g DeCects

1. P. - . i n a O m it te d. B ur ne d o r Scorched Garments:Self_ lanatory.

2. Inadequate Preooing:E'COlBive beat or p r. - u r e . . . u t i n g i n p oo r p le at in g,fu1lDeu or twisting of a seam o r g ar me nt surface.

3. Germents no t Thoroughly Dried:Resulting in exceuive wrinkling of gannent .

4. Improper Pre . . in g Over Zippers o r O th er Cloaures:Often produces a tear or unsightly impress ion on th eface of th e garment.

5. Pockets o r L in ing s not Pressed Correctly:Causing wrinkles or ridges to appear on the surfaceof the garmant.

6. Presaing Producing a Shine in Fabric:

Uaually caused by ell:cessive heat or inco r rec t type ofpressing surface.

oidinC DeCects

1. G a rm e nt n o t Folded to Spoc:i1Icationa:Self-explanatory .

2. Garment no t Folded with ~ o p e rMaterials:Cardboard, tiuue or other specified packaging materiaJa omitted

3. Pitul or Folds in Garment Incorrect:Pins in wrong locat ion or folds n ot c or re ct ly a li gn edfor package.

4. G ar me nt s n ot Buttoned. Flys no t Closed. Incorrect

NumberQf

Pins:S e l i ~ I p 1 a n a t o r y.

5. Label no t Showing:Gannent no t positioned in package to s ho w l ab el onto p surface.

en

F in al I na p ec tl on C h ec kl1. Proper Hang T a . and F'J1!or IdlIltmcation no t Applied:

Omiaion of f ab ri c enntente vmIa... Fiber ProductIdaDtil lce t ioa Act. Haa tac- an d label ahDuid cor.........,t.

IV.

-Glossary of Closure DefectsZIPPERS

SUd. r DelectI1. Won't Lock:

N o t a p pa r en t without teetint by placing Zipper sliderin locked poei t ion an d applyma tenaion.

2. Faulty Dimensiona:Not readily apparent. May cause either a hard or a10088 operatint zipper. Either c on di ti on m ay r es ul tin zipper Cailw-e before garment is worn out.

3. Cruahed Slider:M ay be du e to . improper garment pressing or to pad~ or c o m ~ ~ t i n gsprings in th e preeees not beingin D .t conditIon.

4. Tarniahed:Dorea not pneral ly interfere with operating qualities.but ia mat te r of appearance only. Judgin" this a9 adefect dapenda upon dagree of tarniah.

5. B u r n or Rough Spo",:

Not bnmediately aJ,'P&1'lnt. Ca n ca_ anagging an doarIy . . . . on th a upper tepe.6. Lock Prong Inter!ene:

Indicated by pu ll - tab no t s t ay ing in locked poeition orslider DO t mavin&' freely af ter beiDg released fromlocked poeition. -

7. Weal< Slider Bodies:Ca n best be determined. with p ro pe r t es ti ng e qu ipment. However, manifests i ts el f b y slider becomingcompressed. or crushed under minimum pressure orbecoming d,istorted. enough to create hard operation.

Chain o r T ee th DeCecte1. Improper Dimensions: '

Not always apparent unless s li de r w or ks with greatdi1Ilculty or o pe ra te s t oo easily. Zipper ' may givein i tia l eatiafaetory operat ion but fail after o nl y m oderate .. \.I.M an d especially after laynderin g or dryclAnin .

2. M i _ , " " e d and Unmeshed Teeth;Reedily viaible, particu1arly in large aina. Uauallyr a u l u in inoperable zipper.

a. Mioaina Teeth:fteedily viaible, -particularly in large sizes. Will resultin aady failure of th e zipper.

4. Misplaced Teeth:TW a refers to a tooth being ou t of position, an d acca9ionally ma y involve tW o or three teeth. Seriousness

ranges f ro m triflin g to almost a s se ri ou s a s a missingtooth. depenp.ing upon degree of mispla.cement an dgeneral d es ig n o f zipper. tB y th e latter. w e r ef er. asan exam.pie. to a tooth t ha t is symmetrical, being lessprone to damage in this type of de fect than is a nonsymmetrical tooth.)

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Rivet . & B u r r !The t im four points listed i n r ef er ence to Metal Buttonsalso apply in regard t o R iv et s and Burrs.

Snap Futene r sAll de{ectJ, listed u nde r M eta l Buttons also apply toSnap Futenera . In addi t ion, the following i tems shou ldaloo be coD8idered:

1. Hard Action:In l iIht-weight gooda. thia may m u l t in . tud ors oc ket p ul lin g tn rou lh th a material. The m a pfUtener manufacturer can be of help in recommending proper t ens ion of stud in socket for weight of

larmant material .2. Li lh t Action:

Snap fastener does no t stay closed because of lackof pro pe r tensions. S am e c om me nt applies 8 S fort ight closure.

Booka & Eyes

1. Improperly Applied:This is usual ly caused by a careless operator or improperly a dj us te d a t ta c hi ng e qu ip me nt , and correctiona ar e usually simple when apparent.

2. Improper Alignm,ent:Gauges ar e available for attaching e q ~ i p m ~ n tto as-sure p'roper a l ignmen t in positioning. This is a necessity i f garment is to have a proper ly t ai lo red look.i f th e to p of the zipper is e xt en de d i nt o th e w aist hand of th e traWler, than th e hook an d ey e should beoffset to prevent i t from hitting th e zipper materia l .

3. Poor Finish:May be t ha r es ul t of improper finishinl or pockinlof the m ete l .urface. and, while t hi s d ef ec t doe. Dotinterfere with the fUnctional operation. it may notleave th e desired tiniabed appearance of t he g ar m en t.Improper plat inl could r a u l t in root i f e x ~ todamPNl8ll

4. TigAt C1oeure:A tt ac hi ng e q ui pm e nt ill fitted with an adjustablefeature permitting secure a pp li ca ti on o f hook an deye to e it he r l ig ht o r heavy-weight goods. If closuresseem t oo t ig ht , then on e shou ld immedia t ely checkth e attach.ing equipment for proper adjustment.

5. r.o- Cloeure:Same c om me nt a s with Ti , h t closure.

Plu t i e Buttons1. Undercure:

N o t a p pa re n t wi thou t t e st ing in laboratory. Causeslack of compressive s tr en g th a nd poor r es is tance to'RUbiDg and ironing.

2. Faulty Material:Sam. comment as with Undercure.

3. Extreme Va.riatiorul in Thickness:Button functionally satisfactory but will probablycause a problem if a u to m at ic b u tt o n feed is used.

' - .lncompletery Formed:A T B e ' de fec t and io uouaIIy C&"l(ht dur ing butt

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VI.Glossary of In ter l ining Defects

2. Insufficient C a rt on S t re ng t h:Self.explanatory.

Storage

1. Thread DeterioretiDa;, Due' t o i mp ro pe r e tore .e such as exposure to acids.extreme heat o r ~

2. Too Long in StOrage