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words Carla Capalbo recipes luCa Ciano location photography brett stevens food photography jeremy simons

In the region known as Italy’s ‘Food Valley’, you’ll find picturesque Parma – an enchanting city lauded 

for its pasta, prosciutto and parmesan cheese. 

Cafes line the streets in Parma’s car-free, historical town centre. Opposite: There’s plenty to taste at Casale del Groppone.

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Step into any food shop in Parma and you’ll immediately know you’re in food-lover’s heaven. This small Renaissance city is the birthplace of two of the brightest jewels in Italy’s gastronomic crown: parmesan cheese and Parma ham.

“Ever since Hannibal fortified his troops with prosciutto for an important battle, it’s been part of our cultural heritage. For us, man’s best friend is the pig,” exclaims a finely dressed woman standing in line for un etto (100 grams) of prosciutto. Tradition has it that the best way to savour this sweet yet mellow delight is to cut it paper-thin, then eat it with either fresh bread or melon and figs.

Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese are protected by the coveted DOP status that ties handmade products to their area of origin. You’ll find these local heroes everywhere – in wine bars, served before meals as aperitivi, and in trattorias and restaurants, where they appear in countless dishes. If you’re renting a car, you can visit the farms and dairies where they’re produced (for details, visit: prosciuttodiparma.com and parmigianoreggiano.com).

Parma is nestled in the valley of the Po river (northern Italy’s most important river) as it travels east towards the Adriatic Sea near Venice. This vein of water makes the surrounding land lush and fertile, and brings summer mists and winter fogs to the town, creating a mysterious, romantic atmosphere. The city centre is unchanged from its medieval boundaries, so the main sights are all within walking distance of the Romanesque Duomo and its unique, octagonal-shaped pink marble Baptistery.

Food and art are never far apart in Italy, and Parma offers plenty for music lovers, too. The great 19th-century composer Giuseppe Verdi was born nearby, and the town celebrates his work with an opera festival every autumn. Arturo Toscanini, the legendary conductor, is also from Parma, and his house is now a museum. The city also has much to offer to those who appreciate visual arts, so you can punctuate visits to Parma’s many churches and galleries – including several museums within Palazzo della Pilotta – with pit stops to refuel at eateries that showcase the region’s great food and wine.

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where to eatParma has every level of eatery, from rustic osterias and family-run trattorias to more refined restaurants where young chefs are reinvigorating the local cuisine in creative ways. If you’re looking for a light meal, many bars throughout the town offer simple paninis or plates of meat and cheese. Don’t miss Parma’s handmade filled pastas, amazing range of cured meats, and parmesan cheese in various stages of aging, from the minimum of 12 months to three years, when it gains an almost crystalline structure.

It takes 600 litres of cows’ milk to produce one 40-kilo round of Parmigiano Reggiano, also known as ‘the king of cheeses’. The cheese is immediately recognisable as authentic by virtue of the Consortium’s name branded onto the rind.

For an informal lunch to break up all the sightseeing, Osteria della Gatta Matta (Borgo Degli Studi 9, +39 0521 231 475) is an ideal choice. Enjoy a plate of pasta or savoury parmesan pudding, followed by a seafood salad. The homemade desserts diverge from Italy’s traditional flavours, and show some delightful imagination, including an aromatic cardamom panna cotta.

A short cab ride from the centre is Parma Trattoria Ai Due Platani (Strada Budellungo 104, +39 0521 645 626). Go for authentic Emilian food cooked by two young chefs. Their tortelli pasta stuffed with pumpkin, and gnocchi with nettle pesto take pasta to another level. For dessert, try sbrisolona the scrumptious crumbly cake that’s a specialty of the region.

Parizzi is the place to go for a special night out (Via Repubblica 71, +39 0521 285 952). Marco Parizzi is a young chef often seen on Italian TV. His family restaurant offers the most ambitious cooking in Parma, with tasting menus from the sea and land where great initiative is taken with seasonal ingredients. He also does classics such as anolini in brodo (meat-filled pasta in broth), and there’s a fabulous wine list.

For generous, traditional Emilian fare, go to homely I Tri Siochètt (Strada Farnese 74, +39 0521 968 870) just outside the city centre. Here the antipasti are worth exploring, including gnocco fritto (crispy, fried batter dumplings), to accompany platters of local salumi.

1.The Prosciutto di Parma  at Salumifico La Perla.  Visit: salumificolaperla.it.

2.The Parmigiano Reggiano  at Consorzio Produttori Latte.  Tel: +39 0521 601 313.

3.The pumpkin tortelli with millefiori honey at Casale del Groppone.  Visit: casaledelgroppone.it.

4.The antipasti platter at Gallo d’Oro. Borgo Salina 3, +39 0521 208 846.

5.The balsamic vinegar at Villa San Donnino, a 1-hour drive out of town. Visit: villasandonnino.com. 

5tastes ofparma

From far left: Torrechiara Castle; Emanuele Monica at Consorzio Produttori Latte; Casale del Groppone; gnocco fritto, salumi and Parmigiano Reggiano at Gallo d’Oro.

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where to shopParma is home to Barilla, Italy’s favourite producer of dried pasta, which is exported all over the world. The Barilla factory is so large, the employees use bicycles to get around it. Barilla’s ‘N5’ spaghetti is their most popular pasta and eaten in vast quantities up and down Italy’s boot.

At the Academia Barilla (Largo Calamandrei 3a, +39 0521 264 060, academiabarilla.com), you can sign up to day courses to learn about the food of Parma, take a cooking class, or join a tour to visit nearby food producers. You can also stock up on Academia Barilla’s selection of the best local artisanal goodies, from fine olive oil and balsamic vinegar to Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma, of course.

Italians use every part of the pig in their salt-cured salumi and you can sample them all in shops around Parma. Try culatello, a top-end salumi made from the tender rump.

Salumeria Garibaldi (Strada Garibaldi 42, +39 0521 235 606) sells a vast array of foods, plus cooked dishes to take away. And with the huge range of cheeses from Italy and beyond at Casa del Formaggio (Strada Nino Bixio 106, +39 0521 230 243) you’ll have all you need for the perfect picnic in the Parco Ducale.

Drogheria Gianfranco Pedrelli (Via La Spezia 53a, +39 0521 253 894) sells wines, jams and many other artisanal foods. Then, head over to Pasticceria Cocconi (Strada della Repubblica 22, +39 0521 230 351) for great pastries and espresso.

For fresh produce, visit daily markets scattered throughout town, or the Sunday market in the Piazzale Matteotti.

Clockwise: pedal power is a great way to get around; apartments in the heart of town; La Perla owner Fabrizio Lanfranchi; Parco Ducale; pasta drying at the Barilla factory.

learn the lingoHere are a few words and phrases  to help as you eat and drink your way around Parma.alla parmigiana food prepared in  a Parma style, usually by adding grated cheese and butterbicchiere di vino glass of winebrodo brothCaseificio cheesemaking dairyDov’è il mercato Where is the market?menu degustazione tasting menumerenda a mid-morning or  afternoon snackposso assaggiare? Can I taste it?prosciuttificio ham-curing factoryripieno di… stuffed with… (when talking about filled pasta)salumi salt-cured pork productstortelli di zucca a type of pumpkin-filled pastaun etto di… 100 grams of… (a measure for buying ham or other foods)una fetta di… a slice of…

where to drinkEmilia-Romagna may not be Italy’s best known wine region, but its range is making its way into the spotlight. At the heart of the Emilian table is the red lambrusco, a lightly sparkling, low-alcohol wine that goes surprisingly well with the rich foods on offer. The area’s most important still red is Sangiovese di Romagna, with a distinct character that separates it from its Tuscan cousin. It comes in four versions, from the young Novello to the barrel-aged Riserva. You can try them and other Italian drops at Parma’s many wine bars, called enotecas.

Don’t miss the relaxed wine bar Bottiglia Azzurra (Borgo Felino 63, +39 0521 285 842). You’ll recognise it by the large sign of a blue bottle hanging over the doorway. Have a glass of wine accompanied by a plate of pasta or a cheese sampler.

Enoitalia (Viale Duca Alessandro 43, +39 0521 463 208) is the perfect shop for wine lovers, selling everything from great bottles to openers and other gadgets.

where to stayTo experience Parma as the noblity did, stay in one of seven elegant suites at Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati Residence (Strada al Duomo 7a, +39 0521 502 204, palazzodallarosaprati.it, from $250 per double), bang in the centre of town.

The newly renovated Hotel Stendhal (Via Bodoni 3, +39 0521 208 057, hotelstendhal.it, from $175 per double including breakfast) has antique-style rooms and terrific breakfast buffets. It’s located near Palazzo della Pilotta.

Villino di Porporano (Strada Bodrio 26, +39 0521 642 268, from $140 including breakfast, villinodiporporano.com) is a modern B&B in a small villa, just a short drive from the town centre. It offers the perfect base for touring the food producers in the Parma countrysideThanks to Barilla for their assistance.

the grand tourOnce you’ve finished eating and drinking your way around town, there are still plenty of sights to take in.Set on a high perch overlooking the 

Parma valley, torrechiara Castle dates back to the 15th century.  The castle’s interior is covered with frescos depicting fantastical scenes, and its towers have breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. Located in the centre of town, 

Cattedrale di parma is a stunning example of Romanesque architecture. Don’t miss Renaissance-master Corregio’s beautiful fresco on the dome. Across the Parma River is parco Ducale – an oasis of gardens scattered with sculptures.Take a trip back in time at palazzo

della pilotta, which houses the archaeological museum, national gallery and historic Farnese theatre.The compact historic centre is car-

free, so bikes are a popular way to  get around. For punto bici bike share, visit: parmapuntobici.pr.it. 

Clockwise: Piazza Garibaldi; Cattedrale di Parma; Palazzo della Pilotta; barrels of aged 

balsamic vinegar at Villa San Donnino. 

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baked buffalo ricotta & honey cake with prosciutto and witlof & walnut salad serves 4

20g unsalted butter, melted 400g fresh buffalo’s milk ricotta*2 tsp finely chopped rosemary11/2-2 tbs honey, plus extra to drizzle2 witlof, leaves thinly sliced2 red witlof*, leaves thinly sliced1/4 cup (25g) walnuts, toasted, chopped2 tbs roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley1/3 cup (80ml) extra virgin olive oil2 tbs balsamic vinegar8 slices Prosciutto di Parma*  or regular prosciutto, to serve

preheat oven to 180°c. Brush four 1/2 cup (125ml) ramekins with butter, then place

in the fridge for 2-3 minutes until the butter is set and firm.

place ricotta in a bowl and fold through rosemary and 11/2 tbs honey. check for sweetness, adding more honey to taste. season and spoon into ramekins.

Bake for 20 minutes until lightly golden and slightly puffed. cool in ramekin for 10 minutes, then carefully run a knife around the edge and turn out onto plates.

Meanwhile, toss the witlof, walnuts and parsley together in a bowl. whisk oil with balsamic, season, then toss with salad.

drizzle cakes with extra honey, season with freshly ground black pepper and serve with the salad and prosciutto.* Buffalo’s milk ricotta (substitute regular ricotta) and prosciutto di parma are from selected delis. red witlof is from greengrocers; substitute radicchio.

pasta masterLuca Ciano (above), executive chef for Barilla Australia, is lucky enough to visit Parma every year. “Going to Italy brings me back to my cooking roots,” he says. “They call the area around Parma the food valley. The flavours, the smells – there’s no better way to be inspired.” Luca has always combined his 

passion for cooking with travel, having worked in London, Bermuda and Australia, as well as a stint at two-Michelin starred Il Luogo di Aimo e Nadia in his native Milan. These days, he hosts Italian 

cooking classes at Casa Barilla in Sydney’s Annandale, travels around Australia and New Zealand giving cooking demonstrations, and is a restaurant consultant.Whenever Luca has the chance, he 

loves to return to Italy, particularly to Parma. “It’s such a cute little town,” he says. “It has a rich heritage and everything revolves around food. What’s not to love?” Here Luca shares some recipes inspired by  the bounty of this charming region.For more information on cooking classes at Casa Barilla in Sydney, visit: barillaaus.com.

Baked buffalo ricotta & honey cake with prosciutto and  witlof & walnut salad

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risotto alla parmigiana with parmesan wafers serves 4

2 tbs olive oil70g unsalted butter, chopped1 onion, finely chopped1 garlic clove, finely chopped11/3 cups (300g) carnaroli* or arborio rice1/3 cup (80ml) dry white wine1.25L (5 cups) chicken or vegetable stock, heated 

21/2 cups (200g) finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano* or regular parmesan,  plus extra to serve

1/3 cup (80ml) best-quality balsamic vinegar* (optional)

2 tbs finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 

heat the oil and 20g butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. add onion and garlic, then cook, stirring, for 6-8 minutes until soft. add rice and stir for 1-2 minutes to coat the grains. add wine and cook for 1 minute or until completely evaporated. stir in stock, a ladleful at a time, allowing each to be completely absorbed before adding the next. continue to cook, stirring constantly, for about 20 minutes or until rice is al dente (you may not need to use all the stock). remove from heat and stir in half the cheese and remaining 50g butter. stand for 2-3 minutes. it should be creamy and runny – if not, just add a little more stock.

Meanwhile, heat a non-stick frypan over medium-low heat. when the pan is

hot, sprinkle in the remaining cheese in an even layer. allow the cheese to cook for 1-2 minutes until starting to bubble and the edges begin to turn golden. remove from the heat and cool in the pan for 1 minute, then carefully transfer to baking paper to cool completely. once cool, break into shards.

if using balsamic, place in a small saucepan over low heat and cook for 2-3 minutes or until reduced by two-thirds.

sprinkle risotto with parsley and extra cheese, then drizzle with a little balsamic reduction. serve with parmesan wafers.* carnaroli rice and parmigiano reggiano are from delis. for best results, use a balsamic vinegar aged for at least 8 years, available from selected delis.

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rigatoni alla partenopea with crispy eggplant and buffalo mozzarellaserves 4

Sunflower oil, to deep-fry2 tbs plain flour1 eggplant, cut into 3cm x 1.5cm batons400g rigatoni400g jar tomato and ricotta sauce  (we used Barilla)

10 basil leaves, torn2/3 cup (50g) finely grated  Parmigiano Reggiano* 

150g buffalo mozzarella ball*, tornExtra virgin olive oil, to drizzle

half-fill a saucepan with sunflower oil and heat to 180°c (a cube of bread will turn golden in 30 seconds when oil is hot enough). season the flour with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper,

then toss with the eggplant. shake off excess flour, then deep-fry the eggplant, in batches, for 2 minutes or until golden. remove eggplant from the oil and drain on paper towel.

Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large saucepan of salted boiling water according to the packet instructions until al dente. drain.

in a large saucepan, heat the tomato and ricotta sauce over medium-low heat, stirring, for 2-3 minutes until warmed through. remove pan from the heat and add eggplant, basil, cheeses and pasta and gently toss to combine, allowing the mozzarella to melt slightly.

divide pasta among bowls, drizzle with a little extra virgin olive oil and serve immediately.* Buffalo mozzarella (substitute bocconcini) and parmigiano reggiano (substitute parmesan) are from delis. d.

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