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K ING OFthe grapes

An impressive cast of judges convened for the Global Cabernet Sauvignon

Masters to put 200 wines through their paces. Lucy Shaw presents the results

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howlers, thankfully,” quipped Payne.“Caberent Sauvignon proved that it isable to deliver value for money. Producersacross the world are stepping up theirgame and the hit rate in the competitionwas very good,” added Hugo Rose MWof the Wine Investment Association.

In terms of individual countries, judgespraised Chile for its ability to deliverreliable and consistently high-qualityCabernet at an affordable price point.“You can find fantastic value in Chile,which has a lot to recommend it,” saidPayne. “The consistency of the ChileanCabs was a big surprise for me – thewines offered dark fruit and a creamy

texture,” commented VanessaCinti, head sommelier ofWolfgang Puck’s debut Londonrestaurant Cut at 45 Park Lane.

While the US put in a consistentperformance, it was Australia,and most notably Coonawarra,that got our judges’ pulsesracing, with the inherentelegance of the wines from theSouthern Australian regionsetting them apart. Australia alsoled the way in the gold medaltally, scooping five golds and a

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In a crowded wine competition arena,the drinks business Global CabernetSauvignon Masters stands out for itsassessment of wines purely by grapevariety rather than region. Dividedonly by price bracket and, for ease ofjudging, whether the style was oakedor unoaked, the blind tasting formatallowed wines to be assessed withoutprejudice about their country oforigin. The wines were scored out of100, with those gaining more than 95points being awarded the top title ofMaster. Those earning more than 90points were given a gold, those morethan 85 points a silver, and those morethan 80 points a bronze. The wineswere judged by a stellar group ofMasters of Wine on 8 May at Elyséerestaurant in London’s Goodge Street.

cabernet sauvignon masters

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HAVING RECENTLY cemented its titleas king of the grapes with the news that ithas overtaken Spanish white varietyAirén as the world’s most widely plantedgrape, no serious wine competitionwould be complete that didn’t putCabernet Sauvignon under themicroscope. According to a recent studyform the University of Adelaide, since1990, Cabernet Sauvignon has more thandoubled its share of hectares under vine,though many may argue its heartlandremains on Bordeaux’s Left Bank, wheresome of the world’s most highly prizedwines are crafted from the grape, which isused to form the backbone of Bordeauxblends. However, this thick-skinnedvariety can thrive in an array of terroirsaround the world, and can be foundflourishing everywhere from Coonawarraand Margaret River in Australia to theNapa Valley in California and Chile’sMaipo Valley.

The 17th century lovechild of CabernetFranc and Sauvignon Blanc, CabernetSauvignon is appreciated by grapegrowers for its naturally low-yielding,late-ripening nature and ability to addstructure, colour and power to blends. Inaddition, the grape’s naturally highacidity and tannic structure mean winesmade from Cabernet can be built to last.Given that it is planted in a plethora ofpockets around the world, there is nocookie-cutter signature style for Cabernet,though many boast notes of blackcurrant,mint, eucalyptus, bell pepper and cedar,with cherry and olive notes present incooler-climate Cabernets, and warmerCabs often veering towards the jammierend of the flavour spectrum.

Building on from the success of both theChardonnay Masters and the Pinot NoirMasters, around 200 wines from ninecountries were submitted to ourinaugural Cabernet Sauvignon Masters,with judging taking place on 8 May atElysée restaurant in central London.Served blind and assessed withoutprejudice about their country of origin,the wines were arranged according to

their price band as well as style, from lowprice to high, and unoaked to oaked, inorder to make the competition as fair aspossible. Judged by a stellar panel ofMasters of Wine, including SebastianPayne MW of The Wine Society, DemetriWalters MW of Berry Bros & Rudd andJustin Knock MW of Encirc, the wineswere scored out of 100, with those gainingmore than 95 points being awarded thetop title of Master. Those earning morethan 90 points were given a gold, thosemore than 85 points a silver, and thosemore than 80 points a bronze.

NEW ORDERThe majority of entries for our CabernetSauvignon Masters came from the NewWorld, with just one wine from Bordeauxtaking part in the competition. While two-thirds of the wines were single-varietalCabernet, the remainder were blendscrafted from at least 75% CabernetSauvignon. During the tasting, the judgeslooked for balance, fine tannic structure, abright fruit profile and a complexcharacter, as well as a long finish.

So how did the wines fare? Of the 200wines that entered, 141 were medal-winners, with 83 walking away with abronze, 41 awarded silver, 14 impressingenough for a gold and just three scoopingthe top accolade of a Master medal.“Cabernet is one of the great grapes of theworld and you can see why it’s plantedeverywhere as it delivers on manydifferent levels. We haven’t had too many

Cabernet Sauvignon provedthat it is able to deliver valuefor money. Producers acrossthe world are stepping up

their game

About the competition

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Master for Katnook Founder’s BlockCabernet Sauvignon 2010. “Both Australiaand Argentina are doing a very good job with Cabernet Sauvignon and areoffering decent-quality examples forunder £10. You can see the evolution thecountries have undergone in recent years.The Australian wines were lovely andfresh with herbal and menthol notes,”said Cinti.

Hot on Australia’s heels was Chile,which won four golds, followed byArgentina, which scooped two golds anda Master for Pascual Toso Reserve

Cabernet Sauvignon 2009, with Spainpicking up the third and final Master forTorres’ Mas La Plana 2010, which hasbeen made from a 29-hectare vineyard inthe northern Spanish region of Penedèssince 1970. South Africa delivered a solidperformance, earning two gold and threesilver medals, while, somewhatsurprisingly given its strong links toCabernet, the US picked up only one goldmedal for Jackson Family WinesStonestreet Monument Ridge CabernetSauvignon 2010.

QUESTION OF STYLEA debate arose around oak, witha number of judges lamentingthe inability on the part of manyproducers to handle it properly.“While Cabernet has a naturalaffinity for oak, a lot of the wineswere smothered and it wasn’tused judiciously, meaning theoak owned the wine rather thanthe other way around,”commented Berry Bros & Rudd’sWalters. Payne of The WineSociety concurred. “At the end of

You can see the evolution thecountries have undergone inrecent years. The Australianwines were lovely and fresh

with herbal and menthol notes

cabernet sauvignon masters

Medal winners: blends

Company Wine Vintage Country MedalUnoaked blends under £10Viña Canepa Novisimo Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile Bronze

Oaked blends under £10Constellation Brands Canada Clos du Bois North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA SilverViña Maipo Vitral Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile BronzeConcha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile BronzeViña Luis Felipe Edwards Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile BronzeConstellation Brands Canada The Dreaming Tree Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast 2012 USA BronzeViña Canepa Finisimo Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile BronzeDe Bortoli wines DB Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia Bronze

Oaked blends £10-£20Santa Rita Estates Santa Rita Medalla Real 2010 Chile GoldChamlija Wines Chamlija Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Turkey BronzeBisquertt Ecos de Rulo, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile BronzeViña Cobos Felino Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina BronzeBanfi Aska, Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2012 Italy BronzeConcha y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile BronzeSte Michelle Wine Estates Columbia Crest Grand Estates Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA BronzeJackson Family Wines Kendall Jackson Vintner's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA BronzeViña Maipo Gran Devoción Cabernet Sauvignon/Syrah 2011 Chile BronzeConstellation Brands Canada Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA Bronze

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cabernet sauvignon masters

Medal winners: blends (continued)

Company Wine Vintage Country MedalOaked blends £20-£30Bodegas La Rosa Cientoquince CXV 2011 Argentina GoldMontGras Properties Montgras Ninquén 2010 Chile SilverThompson Estate Thompson Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia SilverCastello di Amorosa Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA SilverJackson Family Wines Kendall Jackson Grand Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA SilverSte Michelle Wine Estates Chateau Ste Michelle Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2012 USA BronzeThompson Estate Thompson Estate Andrea 2010 Australia BronzeTreasury Wine Estates Beringer Knights Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA Bronze

Oaked blends £30+Voyager Estate Voyager Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2009 Australia GoldSte Michelle Wine Estates Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA SilverViña Canepa Magnifcvm 2011 Chile SilverErrázuriz Don Maximiano 2011 Chile SilverJackson Family Wines Freemark Abbey Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA SilverSte Michelle Wine Estates Col Solare 2010 USA SilverConstellation Brands Canada Robert Mondavi Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2008 USA SilverSte Michelle Wine Estates Chateau Ste Michelle Indian Well Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA BronzeCono Sur 20 Barrels Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile BronzeSte Michelle Wine Estates Château Ste Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA BronzeJackson Family Wines Atalon Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA BronzeViña Maipo Protegido 2010 Chile BronzeErrázuriz Don Maximiano 2010 Chile BronzeSte Michelle Wine Estates Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA BronzeJackson Family Wines La Jota Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA BronzeCobblestone Vineyards Cobblestone Vineyards Reserve Atlas Peak, Napa Valley 2009 USA Bronze

Medal winners: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (under £10)

Company Wine Vintage Country MedalUnoaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon under £10Rock N Roll Wines AB Kiss Monster Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA BronzeBlends Wine Estates UK Tomero Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina Bronze

Oaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon under £10Bodegas La Rosa Finca La Escondida Reserve 2013 Argentina GoldWakefield/Taylors Wines Promised Land Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Australia GoldVina Terranoble Terranoble Reserva Terroir Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile GoldMP Wines Killka Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Argentina SilverBlaxland Wine Group Barton Steer Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Australia SilverViña Mistamar Vistamar Sepia Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile SilverBarton & Guestier B&G Réserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 France BronzeMontGras Properties MontGras Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile BronzeViña Luis Felipe Edwards Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile BronzeTrinchero Family Estates Sutter Home Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA BronzeRPB El Supremo Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina BronzeBodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Argentina BronzeDoolhof Wine Estate Signature Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa BronzeRietvallei Wine Estate Rietvallei Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa Bronze

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cabernet sauvignon masters

Medal winners: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (£10-£20)

Company Wine Vintage Country MedalKatnook Coonawarra Katnook Founder's Block Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia MasterBodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Selected/Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Argentina MasterSpier Wines Savanha Naledi Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa GoldViña Terramater Terramater Altum Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Chile GoldBodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Argentina SilverKWV KWV The Mentors Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 South Africa SilverHedges Family Estate House of Independent Producers, Sagemoor Vineyard, Columbia Valley 2012 USA SilverAngove Family Winemakers Vineyard Select Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia SilverViña Siegel Single Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley 2012 Chile SilverViña Valdivieso Valdivieso Single Valley Lot Cabernet Sauvignon, Rapel 2012 Chile SilverMcManis FV McManis Family Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA SilverPernod Ricard Jacob's Creek Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra 2012 Australia SilverCarolina Wine Brands Casablanca Nimbus Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile SilverCarolina Wine Brands Santa Carolina Reserva de Familia Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile SilverViña Morandé Morandé Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile SilverSanta Rita Estates Nativa Gran Reserva 2011 2011 Chile SilverMiguel Torres Chile Cordillera Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile SilverFinca Monteflores Finca Monteflores Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Argentina SilverViña Terramater Terramater Limited Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Chile SilverNamaqua Wines Spencer Bay Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 South Africa SilverViña Los Boldos Momentos Reserve, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile BronzeViña Los Boldos Chateau Los Boldos, Cuvée Tradition, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 Chile BronzeDistell First Cape Special Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 South Africa BronzeSanta Rita Estates Doña Paula Estate 2012 Argentina BronzeWakefield/Taylors Wines Jaraman Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia BronzeViña Pérez Cruz Perez Cruz Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile BronzeMP Wines Salentein Primus Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina BronzeEl Esteco Serie Finca Notables Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina BronzeTrinchero Family Estates Menage a Trois Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA BronzeWakefield/Taylors Wines Wakefield/Taylors Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia BronzeTrinchero Family Estates Napa Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA BronzeWoodstock Wine Estate Woodstock Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia BronzeEl Esteco El Esteco Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina BronzeTrinchero Family Estates Joel Gott Cabernet Sauvignon 815 2012 USA BronzeSpier Wines Spier 21 Gables Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa BronzeBodega Norton Norton Winemaker Selection Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Argentina BronzeTrinchero Family Estates Folie a Deux Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA BronzeCarolina Wine Brands Santa Carolina Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile BronzeViña Pérez Cruz Pircas de Liguai Cabernet Sauvignon Single Collection 2011 Chile BronzeLa Motte Wine Estate La Motte Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile BronzeViña Valdivieso Valdivieso Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo 2011 Chile BronzeDiemersfontein Woolworths Founder’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa BronzeCasarena Casarena Bodega y Viñedos 2011 Argentina BronzeViña Terranoble Terranoble Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile BronzeDomingo Hermanos Finca De Domingo Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Argentina BronzeLangmeil Winery Langmeil Blacksmith Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia BronzeCederberg Cederberg Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 South Africa BronzeDomaine Denois Cabernet Sauvignon La Bourdette 2010 France BronzeCasa Altamira SonVida Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Argentina Bronze

Spain picked up a Master for the Torres Mas La Plana 2010, which has been made from a 29-hectare vineyard in the northern

Spanish region of Penedès since 1970 4

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more rounded and balanced with betterpalate weight and structure than thesingle varietals,” said Walters, to whichPayne added: “As a single varietal,Cabernet Sauvignon rarely hits the highspots – it works better in blends. As agrape it does fantastically commerciallyand is hugely successful; the trick is tokeep the freshness locked in.”

Cinti, meanwhile, was more forgiving ofthe single varietals. “Some of themworked well – I think there is a space forthem in the market. When made well,Cabernet can more than hold its own as asingle-varietal wine,” she said. db

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the day, you want to be able to drink thewhole bottle, not just one glass, and someof the wines messed around with the oaka little too much and the alcohol levelswere too high, but there is a market forthose styles of wine,” he said.

As to whether Cabernet performs betterin a blend or as a solo act, the judges wereunanimous on the former. “I’m notcertain that Cabernet Sauvignon deliversvarietal character under £10. What youtend to get is a lot of structure without thefruit balance. A few of the under-£10wines worked, but the tannin oftensmothered the fruit. The blends were

cabernet sauvignon masters

Medal winners: 100% Cabernet Sauvignon (£20-£30 & £30+)

Company Wine Vintage Country MedalOaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon £20-£30Cono Sur Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Chile GoldCederberg Cederberg Five Generations Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa GoldBird in Hand Bird in Hand Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia GoldTreasury Wine Estates Wynns “Black Label” Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Australia GoldPeirano Estate Vineyards Peirano Estate Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 USA SilverBodegas Pascual Toso Pascual Toso Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina SilverVilla Saletta Villa Saletta Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Italy SilverViña Apaltagua Apaltagua Signature 2011 Chile SilverLe Riche Wines Le Riche Reserve 2010 South Africa SilverTrinchero Family Estates Trinchero Napa Valley Mario's Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA SilverPernod Ricard St Hugo Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia SilverBird in Hand Bird in Hand Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Australia BronzeEl Porvenir de Cafayate Laborum Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Argentina BronzeErnie Els Wines Ernie Els Proprietor's Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 South Africa BronzeViña Cobos Bramare Lujan de Cuyo Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Argentina BronzeMiguel Torres Chile Manso de Velasco 2010 Chile BronzeGatt Wines Gatt Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia BronzeGatt Wines Gatt High Eden Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Australia Bronze

Oaked 100% Cabernet Sauvignon £30+Miguel Torres Mas la Plana 2010 Spain MasterJackson Family Wines Stonestreet Monument Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA GoldTreasury Wine Estates Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia GoldSanta Rita Estates Santa Rita Casa Real 2010 Chile SilverWakefield/Taylors Wines St Andrews Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia SilverBird in Hand Nest Egg Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia SilverWirra Wirra Wirra Wirra Dead Ringer Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia SilverViña Los Boldos Chateau Los Boldos, Vieilles Vignes, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 Chile BronzeHedges Family Estate Red Mountain, La Haute Cuvée 2012 USA BronzeSouth Coast Winery South Coast Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 USA BronzeWakefield/Taylors Wines The Visionary Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Australia BronzeKatnook Estate Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia BronzeSte Michelle Wine Estates Conn Creek Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 USA BronzeSanta Rita Estates Carmen Gold Reserva 2010 Chile BronzeBird in Hand Nest Egg Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 Australia BronzeCobblestone Vineyards Cobblestone Vineyards Reserve Atlas Peak, Napa Valley 2007 USA Bronze

When made well,Cabernet can more

than hold its own as asingle-varietal wine

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cabernet sauvignon masters

(L-R): Patrick Schmitt, editor of the drinks business, Hugo Rose MW of the Wine Investment Association, Vanessa Cinti of Cut at 45Park Lane, Sebastian Payne MW of The Wine Society, Rebecca Palmer of Corney & Barrow, Mark Savage MW of Savage Selection,Lucy Shaw, deputy editor of the drinks business, Justin Knock MW of Encirc and Demetri Walters MW of Berry Bros & Rudd.

The judges

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