Milk%Meat%and%Flour%

%

% To%all%the%vegetarians,%be%warned.%To%all%the%lactose9%intolerant,%be%warned%the%following%

entries%were%not%written%with%you%in%mind.%%As%for%all%the%meat%lovers,%cheese%heads,%food%junkies,%and%

culture%nerds,%the%following%is%a%dedication%to%you.%The%following%is%a%fellow%food%junkie’s%journey,%by%

plane,%by%van,%by%horse,%by%reindeer,%into%the%farthest%reaches%of%Mongolia’s%Taiga%region%and%the%people%

and%food%I%encountered%along%the%way.%%The%food%junkie%is%me,%an%armature%chef%and%very%armature%

anthropologist%who%was%given%a%rare%opportunity%to%live%with%the%reindeer%herders%of%the%taiga%do%to%

brake9the9mold%people%like%Suzanne%Lettrick%and%her%non9profit%organization%GLEAN.%Andrew%Zimmer%

once%said%that%the%best%way%to%experience%a%culture%is%through%its%cooking%and%I%agree%with%that.%I%think%

that%food%does%more%then%nourish,%food%brings%with%it%history,%religion,%happiness.%What%I%learned%

through%this%experience%wasn’t%just%a%different%way%of%cooking%but%a%different%way%of%experiencing%life.%%

They%say%that%any%dish%in%Mongolia%can%be%made%with%milk,%meat%and%flour,%what%makes%them%

unique%is%not%the%ingredients%but%the%people%behind%the%stove.%The%people%I%met%were%all%characters,%

whether%it%be%an%Iranian%horse%master,%a%boy%in%a%green%jumpsuite,%or%a%humble%grandmother;%They%will%

never%be%forgotten.%%%

I%would%like%to%thank%my%family%(both%of%them),%Hammid,%Shuggi,%Suzanne,%Ian,%Christie,%all%my%

friends%who%experienced%this%trip%with%me,%and%anyone%who%has%ever%changed%my%life,%whether%they%

knew%it%or%not.%The%following%are%entries%from%my%journal%and%an%analysis%for%each.%Enjoy.%

9Jeremy%Collins%

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%

Day%one%in%Taiga:%%

% 16%hours%on%plane,%10%hours%in%a%van,%8%hours%on%a%horse%and%we%are%here.%%Mongolia’s%

northern%Taiga%is%the%home%of%the%Tsaatan%people.%As%far%as%I%know,%they%are%nomadic,%they%herd%

reindeer,%and%they%are%shamanic,%other%than%that,%they%are%a%mystery%to%me.%%

The%Taiga%makes%me%feel%like%I’m%lost%in%an%Ansell%Adams%photograph%or%the%chessboard%valley%in%

“Through'the'Looking'glass”.''It’s%beautiful,%a%seamless%green%marsh%encircled%by%high%mountains%

shedding%off%the%last%of%their%snow.%It’s%a%place%to%run%away%to.%The%only%thing%that%isn’t%beautiful%is%the%

weather.%Mongolia’s%tagline%is%“land%of%blue%skies”%but%since%we%left%Hammid’s%camp,%the%rain%hasn’t%let%

up.%I’ve%been%freezing%since%we%got%here.%By%the%end%of%the%trek,%the%only%thing%my%horse%could%muster%

was%incoherent%stumbles%to%the%middle%of%the%village%and%I%had%to%hunch%over%myself%from%the%

harassment%of%the%rain.%With%Erik%doing%the%same,%we%looked%like%drunken%cowboys%from%an%old%cartoon.%

When%we%finally%stop,%my%hands%are%too%numb%to%tie%my%horse%to%its%post%and%I%have%to%get%one%of%the%

locals%to%do%it%for%me.%%There%are%six%or%seven%teepees%in%a%line%and%I%dart%to%the%closest%one%unafraid%of%

looking%like%a%wimp.%The%teepees%here%are%nothing%like%the%gers%at%Hamid’s%camp.%They%look%much%like%

the%teepees%in%America%used%by%the%Native%Americans.%Grey%patchwork%cones%with%simple%wooden%

fences.%%Compared%to%the%romantic%personality%of%the%ger%it’s%easy%to%tell%which%one%I%prefer.%But%it’s%

obvious%why%teepees%look%the%way%they%do%and%why%the%reindeers%use%them%over%gers.%For%a%nomadic%

society%expediency%would%always%go%before%artistic%quality.%%

% Be%that%as%it%may,%I%open%the%flap%into%the%teepee%and%I%am%instantly%welcomed%by%the%

rich%smell%of%tea%brewing%and%cheese%in%a%bowl%on%the%floor.%I’m%overwhelmed,%a%blast%of%warmth%radiates%

over%me%and%I%sit%on%the%ground%watching%my%fellow%expedition%teammates%laugh%about%the%Icy%hell%we%

endured.%%

An%old%woman%with%thick%lines%on%her%face%and%tan%leathery%skin%offers%me%a%cup%of%tea.%She%

smiles%so%warmly%that%I%can%feel%my%fingers%for%the%first%time%all%day.%The%tea%is%thick%with%and%rich%with%

reindeer%milk,%which%is%much%higher%in%fat%content%then%milk%of%a%cow.%They%only%use%half%a%cup%of%milk%to%

make%a%batch%of%tea.%The%drink%itself%is%mild%and%creamy,%the%flavor%of%the%actual%tea%only%peeking%through%

the%milk.%%Reindeer%cheese%has%the%consistency%of%soft%parmesan.%They%don’t%salt%the%cheese%which%lets%

the%natural%tartness%come%out.%The%cheese%we%ate%came%in%one%inch%wheels,%cut%into%quarters%and%is%

eaten%alone.%%

% After%a%while,%I%get%over%the%chill%of%the%outside%world%and%begin%joining%my%friends%in%

discussing%what%was%to%come,%who’d%we%be%living%with,%and%how%we’d%spend%our%week.%I%was%nervous%

about%how%I%was%going%to%be%received.%I%kept%thinking%about%my%tall,%pale,%skinny,%feminine%self%asking%

these%strong%willed%Mongolians%how%to%cook%through%hasty%sign%language%and%the%6%or%so%words%I%actually%

know.%%%

% Two%hours%later,%we%reluctantly%walk%back%into%the%rain%and%ride%to%our%respective%

teepees%and%the%people%we%would%be%living%with%for%the%next%nine%days.%

%

%

I%think%that%it%would%be%best%to%give%you,%the%reader,%a%crash%course%on%what%the%hell%it%is%I’m%

talking%about.%I%guess%the%best%was%to%do%that%is%to%start%with%the%beginning.%The%day%my%live%changed%

forever%was%the%first%day%I%took%cooking%lessons%at%my%local%Viking%cooking%supply%store,%it%was%the%first%

time%I%had%a%real%goal%on%what%I%wanted%to%do%for%the%rest%of%my%life.%The%second%time%was%when%I%went%

on%a%school%trip,%my%sophomore%year,%to%Costa%Rica,%this%was%the%first%time%I%discovered%much%I%loved%to%

travel%and%what%it%actually%meant%for%my%outlook%on%everything%to%adapt.%The%third%time%my%life%changed%

was%May%2008%when%I%got%accepted%into%communications%academy,%a%video%production%based%academy%

that%does%four%video%based%projects%every%year.%It%was%in%this%academy%that%my%life%would%change%once%

again.%At%the%beginning%of%my%second%semester,%we%started%our%third%project%which%was%to%make%a%

promotional%video%for%a%non9%profit%organization.%Long%story%short,%GLEAN%was%one%of%the%choices%and%in%

an%attempt%to%appear%worldly,%probably%to%impress%a%girl,%I%joined%the%group%making%a%promo%for%the%

organization.%GLEAN%is%an%organization%that%gives%kids%like%me%the%opportunity%to%go%to%vast%ends%of%the%

Earth%and%study%what%it%has%to%offer%and%it%was%lead%by%Suzanne%Lettrick.%Suzanne%is%the%women%that%

every%girl%who%meets%her%end%up%wanting%to%be%her.%She’s%the%kind%of%girl%I%would%imagine%reading%Rumi%

while%all%her%friends%were%getting%there%90210%on.%But%she’s%also%the%kind%of%girl%I%could%see%spending%

1000%plus%dollars%on%a%dress.%She’s%unbrandable%you%can’t%really%stereotype%her%on%her%actions%except%of%

maybe%she’s%obsessed%with%the%unconventional.%%Anyway,%the%first%time%I%heard%her%talk%about%what%

GLEAN%does,%that’s%when%I%knew%I%was%going%to%be%on%a%plane%with%her%heading%to%Mongolia.%%

Anyway,%fast%forward%five%or%six%months.%I%got%permission%from%my%parents,%we%ask%all%the%people%

we%know%for%donations,%I%buy%all%the%necessary%equipment,%and%on%July%5th%I’m%heading%to%Ulaan%Baater%

(the%capital%of%Mongolia)%with%six%other%eager%young%adults.%12%hours%later%we’re%in%the%capital.%UB%is%a%

post%communist%city%with%a%lot%of%Russian%architecture,%but%more%importantly%like%most%cities%previously%

under%dictatorship,%its%pretty%beat%up.%At%night,%the%imperfections%of%the%city%look%kind%of%pretty.%It%looks%

like%a%city%that%can%tell%a%story%like%an%old%baseball%mitt%or%a%beat%up%car.%%I%remember%admiring%the%city%

more%than%disliking%it.%In%UB%we%meet%our%co%guides%Ian%and%Christy%and%our%translator%Shuugi%.%We%then%

take%a%one%hour%flight%and%an%8%hour%van%ride%to%a%camp%ground%that%a%friend%of%Suzanne%owns.%His%name%

is%Hammid.%Hammid%is%that%man%everyone%wants%to%meet%on%a%trip%to%a%foreign%country.%You%know%that%

guy%who’s%seen%it%all%and%is%willing%to%talk%about%it%over%free%wine%and%local%delicacies.%He%also%kind%of%a%

mystery%to%me,%all%I%know%for%sure%is%that%he%dresses%just%like%Morpheus%from%the%Matrix,%he’s%from%Iran,%

he%breaded%horses,%he%went%to%Harvard%and%then%moved%to%Mongolia.%I%think%he’s%Buddhist%and%if%he%is,%

he’s%the%real%deal.%He’s%not%the%go%to%China%town,%buy%a%plastic%Buddha%statue,%incense,%a%book%on%

meditation%for%your%coffee%table%and%call%it%a%day%kind%of%Buddhist.%No%he’s%the%live%in%a%cave%for%a%month%

gets%taught%by%Lamas%kind,%pretty%hard%core%if%you%ask%me.%Like%Suzanne,%he%also%can’t%defined%by%his%

actions.%Anyway%Hammid%owns%a%camp%called%wind%horse,%which%is%the%base%camp%and%start%off%point%for%

the%real%journey.%The%best%thing%about%Mongolia%is%every%ten%feet%you%find%a%new%place%where%you%can%

see%yourself%running%away%to%and%starting%a%new%life%free%of%care%and%stress.%Wind%horse%feels%like%

someone%did%that%for%you.%It’s%the%romance%of%new%exciting%culture,%breath%taking%view,%and%vigorously%

inspiring%company%with%the%accommodation%of%a%warm%bath%and%westernized%food.%In%the%journal%entry,%I%

was%talking%about%gers.%Gers%are%traditional%one%room%lodges%that%most%Mongolians%in%the%countryside%

use%as%their%homes,%but%they%don’t%really%matter%because%they%aren’t%used%by%the%reindeer%herders.%

Anyway,%we%lived%at%wind%horse%for%3%days,%learning%to%ride%horses,%having%luxurious%carefree%days%by%the%

river%and%on%the%fields.%As%I%recall%I%had%some%of%the%best%days%of%my%life%there%but%that%doesn’t%matter%

either.%What%does%matter%is%that%from%there,%we%were%able%to%take%the%horses%and%ride%8%hours%through%

rain%soaking%trails%to%the%beautiful%Taiga%where%my%real%journey%would%begin.%

So%really%our%adventure%started%long%before%the%trip%did.%But%this%isn’t%about%our%adventure,%it’s%

really%about%the%people%of%the%taiga%and%showing%the%world%about%their%culture%and%that’s%I%started%the%

journal%entries%with%the%tiaga.%

%

Day%2%in%the%Taiga%

%

Life%couldn’t%get%more%uncomfortable%then%this.%Emmy%and%I%are%in%the%last%pod%in%the%middle%of%

fucking%no%were,%everywhere%I%turn%is%just%me%and%no%body%else.%The%moment%I%get%off%my%horse,%I%can%

feel%how%awkward%I%am%in%front%of%everyone,%the%long%silence%I%evoke%during%dinners,%the%painful%pull%in%

my%stomach%when%I%have%to%be%with%people%I%just%met,%the%sweaty%rambling%that%comes%out%of%my%mouth%

when%I%get%uncomfortable.%I%take%as%long%as%I%can%to%get%into%the%teepee,%pretending%to%soak%in%the%

ambiance%of%the%mountains.%Finally%I%walk%into%house%and%am%met%by%the%stern%faces%of%my%new%family.%I%

stop%in%my%tracks%and%for%I%moment%I%don’t%know%what%to%say.%%

There%are%five%of%them.%A%grand%mother%with%a%high%upper%lip%and%a%thick%black%pony%tale,%she%sits%

in%front%of%the%black%metal%stove%in%the%middle%of%the%teepee.%There%are%three%sisters.%The%oldest%one%

looks%around%30,%with%round%rosy%cheeks,%a%flat%nose,%and%almond%shaped%eyes.%The%second%oldest%has%a%

pale%round%face,%with%cheeks%so%rosy%they%look%blood%shot,%she%tells%me%later%that%she’s%my%age.%The%3rd%

sister%is%very%tan%with%pointy%eyebrows%that%make%her%look%mischievous;%she’s%13.%Then%there%is%the%son%

he’s%6%with%wide%eyes%and%a%big%toothy%smile.%He’s%warring%a%small%flannel%jacket%with%an%Iron%man%

stitched%denim%newsboy%cap.%They%sit%in%a%circle%silently%waiting%for%me%to%do%something.%I%pull%out%my%

notebook%and%look%up%how%to%say%hello.%

“Sambaino.”%I%say%in%my%best%pronunciation.%

The%two%youngest%girls%look%at%each%other%and%giggle.%The%grandmother%glares%at%them%and%says%

something%in%stern%Mongolian,%one%the%16%year%old%girl%get%up%pulls%off%my%backpack%and%puts%it%on%the%

ground.%She%sits%me%down%on%the%ground%adjacent%from%the%rest%of%the%family%and%instantly,%they’re%

poring%me%tea%and%cheese%with%bread.%I%force%down%the%tea%and%cheese%and%wait%silently%as%they%talk%to%

each%other%in%their%native%language.%Every%once%in%a%while,%one%of%them%looks%at%me%and%two%of%the%girls%

the%little%boy%laugh.%Finally%they%stop.%

%

“Tani%nir%Himbway?”%the%grandmother%asks.%

%

Tani%nir%himbway,%I%look%through%my%translation%notes.%What%is%your%name?%

%

“Jeremy.”%I%say%

They%all%look%at%each%other%nodding.%%

“Jemy”%the%Grand%mother%repeats.%

Then%they%all%take%turns%telling%me%their%names.%I%don’t%get%any%of%them%and%am%to%

uncomfortable%to%ask%a%second%time.%For%the%next%hour,%we%force%our%way%through%the%basic%get%to%know%

you%stuff.%I%tell%them%how%old%I%am%and%what%I%enjoy%doing,%they%tell%me%things%I%only%understand%half%of.%

After%that%they%keep%to%themselves%and%I%try%to%keep%as%little%connection%to%them%as%possible.%For%the%first%

time%I%miss%my%home.%%

%

My friend and I back in California came up with a theory once; There are two types of

people in the world, one are scoops of ice-cream, the others are sprinkles. Scoops of ice cream

are people who you can be with and no matter what it’s usually a fun time. Their the ones who

fuel a conversation, they’re flamboyant and energetic and their sole goal in life is to keep things

fun. Sprinkles on the other hand are people, usually nice people, who are fun to be with but only

when they are with scoops of ice cream. Left to there own accord however, sprinkles can’t do

much. The point I’m trying to make is that 9-10 times, I see my-self as a sprinkles kind of guy. It

takes me a long time to warm up to people and in the case of my family, it was hard. First off,

the language barrier was an obviouse block, but it’s more then that. There is nothing more

painful then living with a 13 year old girl that doesn’t can say stuff about you in front of you.

Constant giggling, constant evil glances, constant embarrassment.

Needless%to%say,%the%first%day%with%my%family%was%rough.%It%was%the%first%time%in%the%whole%trip%

that%I%felt%truly%alone.%It%really%made%me%question%what%I%was%doing%there%and%if%I%really%wanted%it.%%

%

%

Day%3%in%the%Taiga%

%

%

I%grandmother%is%asleep%and%I%take%the%opportunity%to%get%up.%The%second%I%someone%notices%me,%

I%am%given%tea%and%yogurt%with%bread.%The%yogurt%is%mild%and%pasty,%I%spread%it%on%the%bread,%which%is%

simple%and%has%the%flavor%and%texture%of%normal%bread%back%home.%After%I%have%been%taken%care%of,%my%

family%huddles%over%their%small%black%and%white%television%and%watches%ten%minutes%of%wrestling.%I%wait%

silently,%observing%the%inside%of%the%teepee.%The%floor%is%carpeted%with%army%blankets%and%animal%hide.%In%

the%middle%stands%a%small%rectangular%stove%made%out%of%scrap%metal%with%a%long%thin%chimney%poking%

out%of%the%smoke%hole.%Two%small%benches%sit%on%either%side%of%the%teepee%flap;%the%benches%are%where%

my%grandmother%and%me%sleep.%Small%wheels%of%cheese%and%all%sorts%of%dried%animal%hang%strung%across%

the%walls%like%Christmas%decorations.%The%teepee%is%cozy,%to%say%the%least.%

My%family%turns%off%the%T.V.%and%they%go%to%separate%parts%of%the%teepee%to%sit%and%talk.%The%little%

boy%pulls%out%half%a%deck%of%beat%up%cards%and%attempts%to%stack%them.%Instantly,%I’m%reminded%about%the%

gifts%I%got%for%my%family.%I%pull%out%a%fresh%deck%of%San%Francisco%themed%cards%and%present%them%to%the%

little%boy.%He%looks%at%me.%

“Chi.”%I%say%“You.”%

The%boy%grabs%the%deck%and%smiles%widely.%We%spend%the%rest%of%the%morning%staking%cards,%I%can%

feel%myself%begin%to%thaw.%%

Later%that%afternoon,%our%chainsaw%brakes%while%my%eldest%sister%is%using%it%to%cut%logs%for%fire.%

My%grandmother%brings%me%outside%to%help%chop%wood,%the%moment%I%was%afraid%of.%I%get%outside%and%

see%a%local%teenage%boy%sitting%by%the%woodpile%fiddling%with%the%chainsaw%and%my%139year9old%sister%

chopping%wood%like%its%nobodies%business.%I%walk%up%and%she%hands%me%the%ax.%I%stare%at%her.%Giggling,%

and%makes%an%ax%chopping%motion%and%I%mentally%prepare%myself%for%the%embarrassment%I%was%going%to%

endure.%I%raise%the%ax%and%swing%down.%The%ax%makes%a%thud%against%the%wood%and%sticks%firmly%within%it.%I%

try%to%pull%up;%it%won’t%budge.%My%two%sisters%watch%me%laughing.%Red9faced%I%pull%as%hard%as%I%can%and%

shake%it%free.%This%time%I%swing%down%as%hard%as%I%can.%The%ax%makes%more%progress%through%the%wood%but%

doesn’t%cut%through.%Now%the%teenage%boy%is%laughing.%I%raise%the%ax%one%last%time%and%swing%it%at%the%

wood.%This%time%it%splits%the%log%in%half.%I%look%up%beaming.%

“Ha!%Suck%it%ladies!”%I%shout%as%they%continue%to%heckle%at%how%much%of%a%weak%American%I%am.%I%

hand%back%the%ax%and%watch%my%139year9old%sister%finish%the%job%and%my%169year9old%sister%flirt%with%the%

boy%fixing%the%chainsaw.%Today%felt%like%a%break%through.%

%

There are 2 really important reasons why I included this journal entry. The first reason is

because it is the first day that I start to feel a connection with my family. After a while, all of my

entery turn from the family I was living with to my family. Its an extraordinary feeling, the

transition into feeling welcomed by strangers. I thank my little brother, whom I later discover is

named Otra, for getting me in with the family. The best thing about living with a six year old is

that you don’t have to speak a word of English or Mongolian to be able to interact. All you need

is an arsenal of sounds that are universally happy or sad and you’re fine.

The second reason that I included this is because that day was the day my assumption

about these people began to change. Before I went to Mongolia, I talked to all my friends about

the nomads I would be living with and we all had the same conversations. We all agreed that

basically they were going to be all enlightened people above anger or frustration who were fine

with the simple things in life and gladly die then have 21 century technology and if they did it

was the damn Russians forcing them into it. I was, for the most part wrong. The people of the

taiga do know what they’re doing with their lives they want to, above most things, preserve there

culture but they do get bored and they do want televisions and they still flirt with boys and argue

with there parents about going out. This day was the first of an eye opening experience for me

and it wouldn’t be my last.

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%

Day%4%in%the%taiga.%

% Woke%up%early%again.%My%grandmother%tells%me%to%go%back%to%sleep%but%I%tell%her%I’m%not%

tired.%She%motions%that%I%should%get%on%my%dell%(traditional%Mongolian%overcoat)%and%together,%we%walk%

outside.%She%holds%a%bowl%of%tea%and%a%bowl%of%yogurt.%She%tosses%faces%the%mountain%and%tosses%the%tea%

towards%it%saying%what%I%assume%is%some%kind%of%prayer.%Then%she%takes%a%spoonful%of%yogurt%and%tosses%

that%to%the%mountain.%My%grandmother%looks%at%me%and%hands%me%the%yogurt.%She%motions%that%I%do%the%

same.%I%scoop%some%yogurt%in%the%spoon%and%toss%it%to%the%mountain.%She%looks%at%me%and%smiles%and%we%

walk%back%into%the%teepee.%%

The%rest%of%the%family%wakes%up%not%much%later.%Together,%we%eat%tea%and%yogurt%with%slices%of%

bread.%I%can%still%hear%my%family%say%“Jemy”%while%they%talk%in%front%of%we,%meaning%they%still%talk%about%

me,%but%I%don’t%seem%to%mind%much%anymore.%

I%spent%the%rest%of%the%afternoon%making%reindeer%cheese%and%playing%with%Otra.%We’ve%taken%a%

liking%to%throwing%a%volleyball%at%each%other%in%the%front%yard.%And%I%finally%got%a%recipe%from%my%grand%

mother;%it’s%called%Lapsha.%

%

Lapsha

• 3%handfuls%of%chopped%meat%(goat)%

• 2%1/2%pinches%of%chives%

• 2%handfuls%of%okh%(fat)%

• 5%cups%of%water%

• 6%handfuls%of%fried%noodles%

• Salt%for%taste%(697%large%pinches)%

(Dish%requires%a%large%pot,)%

Chop%meat%into%1/49inch%cubes.%Heat%pot.%When%hot,%put%in%all%the%meat,%fat,%chives%and%salt.%Stir%

until%meat%is%medium%rare%and%fat%is%translucent.%Add%4%cups%of%water%and%let%it%boil.%Once%at%a%boil,%add%

noodles%and%1%cup%of%water.%Wait%ten%minutes%with%the%lid%on%the%pot.%After%ten%minutes,%take%the%pot%off%

heat%and%serve.%(Serves%697)%

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Finally! The boy talks about cooking. Ten pages in and he finally gets there. Well friends

my experience was a lot more then cooking and I needed to get that across before I got into the

kitchen. But at last, in the kitchen I am, and it is not how I thought it would be. First off, if you

didn’t know, lapsha is Russian not Tsaatan. Secondly, the Tsataan people, from what I noticed

with my family, don’t really have pride in cooking like the French or Italians. They eat what they

know they can make and that’s it. I think its because they don’t have a cooking culture at all

anymore. When Russia came into power, and drew artificial lines of territory, hunting became

harder. Then Russians came in and showed them this way of cooking and that type of ingredient

and easier ways to get food. I’d like to say that they fought tooth and nail to keep their recipes

and cooking culture but why would they, take the path of least resistance. So they started going

to the market, hunting less and cooking their best representation of Russian food. They do still

cook Mongolian cuisine, goat dumplings, s special type of rice pudding, etcetera. But their real

saving grace is their reindeer cheese. Reindeer cheese is like lays potato chips for the Tsataan;

they can’t get enough of it. Whenever someone comes into the home of a Tsaatan person, they

are offered tea and a bowl of reindeer cheese. It’s the cornerstone of their cooking culture; hell

it’s the capital building of their cooking culture. It’s also pretty easy to make. Step one is finding

a female reindeer. If you’ve ever milked a cow, milking a reindeer is like that but the utters are

really small. If you haven’t milked anything, the method is just get in there, pinch, pull and

watch milk jet out like magic. Step 2 is getting a lot of milk. Since the reindeer are fairly small,

they don’t produce a lot of milk, but cheese is in high demand in the Taiga so the milker has to

spend most of the day getting a satisfactory amount. Step 3 is pour milk into a pot and let

chemistry do its thing. Eventually, the milk will turn into curds and then its time for step 4. Take

pot off the stove and put it on the ground. Grab a handful of boiling curds squeeze out all the

steaming liquid; no joke, it’s what they do. Step 5 is to mold the cheese into little wheels and let

them sit for a couple of hours to dry. After they dry, string them up and let hem sit for 2 days.

After that, feed to guests. They have other variations but basically it all starts with a reindeer the

only difference is how you dry it.

Oh! I almost forgot about the first part of this journal entry. When I woke up that day, my

grandmother was showing me how to make an offering to nature. The Tsaatan are strong

believers in the power of nature. It’s hard to tell how much the love it or fear it. Everything I

heard about their beliefs in nature felt more like warnings. Like don’t break a growing tree or

don’t start a rockslide on a mountain because if you do, you will get sick or someone in your

family will get hurt. I think it’s like Greek gods, or like any god for that matter; if you piss them

off, they will get you. Anyway what my grandmother and me were doing was giving an offering

to nature and in return we get good fortune for our family. She does this every morning; it’s like

the priority for eating goes, nature, family, and dogs. I enjoyed seeing a culture that puts the

earth before themselves, I wonder if that’s the way it should be.

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Day%six%in%the%taiga.%%

Woke%up%late%today.%I%guess%I%didn’t%have%to%do%chores%today%because%grandma%didn’t%wake%me.%I%

spend%the%morning%playing%cards%with%Otra.%He%keeps%pretending%the%Swiss%army%knife%I%gave%him%is%a%

gun.%%When%lunch%arrives,%Emi%(one%of%the%interns%on%the%trip%with%us)%comes%to%my%teepee%and%together%

we%go%up%to%the%teepees%where%Suzanne%and%the%others%are.%%Today%is%a%special%day%because%today,%the%

children%of%the%people%of%the%community%are%going%to%give%us%some%late%Nadam%festival%entertainment.%

Hammid’s%cook%makes%my%expedition%group%and%me%pesto%pasta%and%we%ride%to%where%the%festivities%will%

begin.%When%we%get%to%the%festival%all%the%adults%shoo%us%into%a%teepee%so%the%kids%can%get%ready.%We%wait%

eagerly%entertaining%ourselves%by%taking%turns%holding%one%of%the%woman’s%baby%boy%and%swooning%at%

how%cute%he%is.%After%10%minutes,%we%walk%outside%to%watch.%We%see%all%the%children%dressed%strange%

outfits.%Two%of%the%older%girls%are%dressed%like%extras%in%the%“Oops'I'did'it'again”%music%video%another%

eight%year%old%boy%is%in%a%bright%green%sequence%jumpsuit.%20%children%all%lined%up,%dressed%like%they%

cannonballed%into%a%crate%of%old%Halloween%costumes%and%took%what%stuck%to%them.%We%wait,%beaming%at%

what%could%possibly%come%of%the%situation.%A%mother%walks%front%and%center%holding%a%clipboard.%She%says%

something%and%all%the%local%people%clap,%The%whole%situation%starts%to%feel%like%a%school%play.%All%the%kids%

run%on%stage,%line%up%and%start%to%sing.%When%they%finish,%we%all%clap.%All%the%kids%run%off%stage%except%for%

the%girls%in%school%girl%outfits%and%the%boy%in%a%green%jump%suit.%They%get%in%a%line,%all%of%a%sudden%strange%

techno%dance%music%plays%and%the%girls%start%a%synchronized%dance.%The%gyrate%there%hips%left%and%right,%

poping%and%locking%like,%well%extras%in%the%“Oops'I'did'it'again”%song.%%the%boy%dressed%like%he%was%going%

to%be%on%soul%train%starts%breaking%formation%and%begins%dancing%like%a%Wildman.%He%jumps%on%one%leg%

and%lassos%the%crowd;%he%begins%spinning%around%arms%stretches%like%an%airplane.%My%whole%group%goes%

hysterical;%the%mix%of%preteen%gyrations%and%an%eight%year%old%boy%wearing%a%green%sequence%jumpsuit%

pretending%to%lasso%you%is%too%much%for%us.%We%cheer%until%they%politely%bow%and%walk%off%stage.%

Afterwards,%the%children%do%more%sits%for%us%and%we%play%festival%games%like,%who%can%saddle%a%

reindeer%first,%who%can%eat%the%bread%on%a%string%with%no%hands%first,%how%fast%can%you%drink%a%liter%of%

yogurt.%We%end%the%day%late%and%I%ride%over%to%my%house%fully%entertained.%

%

Once%again,%my%perception%of%the%Tsaatan%changed.%I%idea%of%a%humble%bunch%of%reindeer%herders%

was%off.%Who%knew%that%they%could%party%like%they%did;%thus%proving%that%wanting%to%cut%loose%and%have%a%

good%time%is%universal.%Two%weeks%before,%I%would%have%thought%that%a%bunch%of%nomadic%girls%swinging%

their%hips%like%they%want%to%be%on%MTV%was%nothing%else%but%the%evil%westernization,%but%I%didn’t%see%

anyone%twisting%their%arms%and%everyone%involved%looked%pretty%happy.%So%what’s%the%harm?%Doesn’t%

look%like%any%if%you%ask%me;%if%you%disagree,%try%on%a%green%jumpsuit%and%lasso%dance%around%your%room%

for%a%while%you’d%be%surprised.%%

This%is%also%the%first%time%I%saw%the%whole%village%in%one%setting.%I%didn’t%want%you%to%think%that%all%

the%Tsataan%are%hermits%living%far%away%from%each%other%and%keeping%no%connection.%%The%truth%is%that%

almost%all%of%the%Tsaataan%are%related%and%thus%stay%together%through%family%ties.%There%was%a%lot%less%

then%I%thought%there%would%be%when%I%saw%them%all,%maybe%30%or%less.%But%they%do%stay%connected,%

everyday%I’d%see%at%least%2%or%3%people%come%in%for%a%chat,%smoke%a%cigarette%and%be%on%their%way.%The%

Tsaataan%day%is%filled%with%work%but%when%they%have%the%time,%they%like%to%be%together.%%

%

Day%8%in%the%Taiga%

I%CAN’T%BELIEVE%I%ONLY%HAVE%ONE%MORE%DAY%WITH%MY%FAMILY!!!%I%wake%up%and%help%my%13%

year%old%sister%herd%the%reindeer.%Afterwards,%I%and%my%whole%family%spend%the%rest%of%the%day%throwing%

cards%at%each%other.%We%ran%around%the%teepee%chucking%the%remnants%of%the%deck%I%gave%Otra%at%one%

another,%laughing%the%whole%way%through.%Once%we%call%a%truce,%we%all%lay%silently%for%a%couple%of%hours.%

Then%I%hear%a%“Hello.”%I%look%up%and%see%an%African%American%girl%walk%in%with%another%woman%behind%her.%

My%family%gets%up%and%pours%them%a%cup%of%tea%and%offers%a%bowl%of%cheese.%The%girl%sits%down%and%

politely%excepts.%I%retreat%to%my%bed%and%study%the%two%people%before%me.%The%girl%is%in%her%collage%year,%

all%smiles,%with%cornrows%and%a%black%overcoat.%The%lady%with%her%is%her%translator,%a%tall%thin%woman%with%

a%long%face%and%shoulder%length%hair.%I%watch%as%my%family%gravitates%towards%the%girl,%touching%her%hair%

and%letting%themselves%become%tantalized%be%pictures%of%her%family%and%university%diploma.%%

“This%is%me%holding%a%200%year%old%book%at%my%university.”%She%says%pointing%at%one%of%the%

pictures,%alluring%them%with%her%coy%smile;%I’m%unimpressed.%She%proceeds%to%tell%her%translator%to%tell%my%

family%that%she’s%spending%the%summer%studying%the%culture%of%Asian%nomads%in%Mongolia%and%that%she%

wanted%to%ask%my%grandmother%questions%about%her%history%and%culture.%My%grandmother%agrees.%

She%begins%to%ask%my%grandmother%questions%with%the%demeanor%of%a%daycare%teacher%asking%a%

child.%Can%you%tell%me%about%your%religion,%what%do%you%want%most%to%be%preserved%in%your%society?%Each%

question%in%the%high%pitched%soft%spoken%voice%of%a%mother%cooing%her%baby.%%

“Damn,”%I%think%“These%are%good%questions.”%%

My%grandmother%tells%her%everything,%things%I%would%never%know%about%her%if%the%girl%hadn’t%

asked.%Like%the%main%focuses%of%their%religion,%how%they%worship%the%big%dipper%and%call%them%the%seven%

gods,%how%my%grandmother%wrote%a%book%about%the%preservation%of%Tuvin%language,%the%basic%principles%

of%shamanism.%The%girl%sucked%it%out%of%her%like%nothing;%it%was%threatening.%After%two%hours%of%my%family%

focusing%on%the%girl,%I%began%to%feel%like%a%neglected%child.%She%finally%left%and%I%went%to%my%family%and%

tried%to%savor%the%last%moments%of%our%stay%together.%I%played%volleyball%with%my%sisters,%played%Frisbee%

with%Otra%using%the%lid%o%a%tin%can,%and%made%noodles%with%my%grandmother.%The%way%my%grandmother%

makes%noodles%is%pretty%cool.%The%ingredients%are%just%water%and%flour%but%we%let%it%sit%and%role%it%really%

thin%and%fry%them%like%a%tortilla.%Then%we%cut%them%up%really%thin%and%use%them%in%basically%every%dish.%

After%dinner,%I%played%more%volleyball%and%tried%to%go%to%sleep;%it%was%hard%though%because%all%I%could%

think%about%was%leaving%my%family.%

As%I%re9read%this%entry,%I%started%to%feel%kind%of%bad%for%the%way%I%depicted%this%girl.%She%was%

actually%pretty%nice%and%she%just%wanted%to%experience%to%culture%as%much%as%I%did.%But%she%was%

threatening.%It’s%like%when%you’re%checking%out%of%a%hotel%and%you%have%all%to%live%up%the%vacation%but%a%

couple%checks%in%early%and%you%have%to%make%room%for%them%and%all%they%do%is%remind%you%that%you’re%

leaving%this%beautiful%place;%that’s%what%she%did%to%me.%Plus%it%took%me%8%days%to%get%where%I%was%with%my%

family%and%she%waltzes%in%with%her%very%own%translator%and%opens%them%up%in%like%an%hour!%It%was%very%

upsetting,%my%last%day%with%my%family%spent%with%her.%

I%t%was%a%really%somber%day,%I%never%thought%that%I%would%care%so%much%about%people%I%can’t%even%

have%a%legitimate%conversation%with.%It%was%a%nice%day%to%thought.%You%know%in%Kramer%vs.%Kramer%when%

Dustin%Hoffman%is%making%French%toast%for%the%first%time%and%me%totally%screws%it%up%but%way%later%in%to%

movie,%after%he’s%used%to%taking%care%of%his%son%,%he%makes%it%again%and%it’s%like%nothing?%That%is%how%my%

last%day%with%my%family%felt,%comfortable.%%And%to%think,%8%days%before%I%couldn’t%wait%to%leave%the%taiga%

but%that%day,%I%was%just%thinking%of%the%ways%to%get%back.%

%

Last%day%in%the%Taiga%

I%woke%up%super%early%today.%I%watched%my%grandmother%give%offerings%nature%and%I%prayed%for%

their%good%health.%My%family%woke%up%later%and%we%eat%yogurt%and%bread.%It%was%a%quiet%morning,%we%eat%

in%silence.%My%sisters%help%me%finish%packing%and%I%give%it%to%one%of%the%locals%to%put%on%the%pack%horse.%An%

hour%later,%Emi%comes%to%my%teepee,%I%think%she%was%crying.%I%go%up%to%my%family%and%take%a%picture%with%

them%on%my%camera.%Then%I%give%them%all%a%huge%hug.%My%grandmother%sniffs%my%cheek%(term%of%

endearment%in%Mongolia)%and%they%give%me%a%goat%bone%necklace%to%remember%them.%We%write%down%

addresses%and%promise%to%write%to%each%other.%Then%I%get%on%my%horse%and%say%goodbye%for%the%last%time.%

I%ride%to%the%others%in%front%hiding%my%tears%from%Emi.%

%

I%can’t%believe%that’s%all%I%wrote%for%my%last%day%with%my%family!%It%really%was%much%more%than%

that,%emotionally%any%way.%I%can%remember%my%grandmother%dressed%in%a%blue%shawl%and%a%pair%of%

sunglasses%with%her%best%dell%on;%she%looked%fabulous,%like%a%celebrity.%I%remember%the%swell%of%emotion%I%

got%every%time%I%told%my%horse%to%go%faster%through%the%marsh.%I%remember%the%regret%I%felt%for%ever%

isolating%myself%from%them.%But%there%it%is,%I%rode%off%into%the%morning%not%knowing%if%I’ll%ever%see%them%

again.%I%learned%more%than%I%ever%thought%I%would%from%my%second%family%and%only%half%of%it%was%about%

food.%I%learned%not%to%be%afraid%of%the%nothingness%of%the%world,%how%to%be%comfortable%when%the%

situation%is%not%in%my%control.%I%learned%that%boredom%is%an%opinion%and%easily%remedied.%I%learned%that%

humans%all%around%the%world%have%the%same%basic%emotions%that%drive%us%to%do%the%same%basic%things.%

And%hell%yes%I%learned%how%to%make%a%mean%cup%of%reindeer%tea%and%some%sick%ass%wheels%of%cheese,%but%

more%importantly,%I%learned%about%a%better%self.%%I%can%honestly%say%that%my%life%was%changed%within%those%

9%days,%and%I%would%never%want%to%lose%that.%In%Mongolia%they%never%say%goodbye%and%in%that%spirit,%I%will%

not%say%the%end%because%it%never%is.%Hell%maybe%this%is%the%beginning%of%your%adventure.%

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