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G i v e yo u r fo r m u l at i o n Sta r a p p e a l !

p o l y u r e t h a n e s f o r c o s m e t i c s

Bayer MaterialScience AG51368 Leverkusen Germany

[email protected]

this information and our technical advice – whether verbal, in writing or by way of trials – is given in good faith but without a warranty, and this also applies where proprietary rights of third parties are involved. it does not release you from the obligation to test the products supplied by us as to their suitability for the intended processes and uses. the application, use and processing of the products are beyond our control and, therefore, entirely your own responsibility. should, in spite of this, liability be established for any damage, it will be limited to the value of the goods delivered by us and used by you. We will, of course, provide products of consistent quality within the scope of our General conditions of sale and Delivery.edition: 2011-03 · order-no.: ms00052980 · printed in Germany · DM

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i n n o v a t i v e c o S m e t i c r a w m a t e r i a l S

Over 60 years ago, Otto Bayer and his staff developed poly-

urethanes – a significant discovery that established Bayer as a

pioneer in the field of polyurethane chemistry. Ever since,

Bayer has systematically pursued the development of

polyurethanes. We now offer innovative raw materials for the

cosmetic industry based on two technology platforms:

Aqueous polyurethane film formers

Polyurea powder as a sensory additive

e n v i r o n m e n t a l l y f r i e n d l y

A unique manufacturing and filling process ensures the pro-

duction of highly pure polyurethanes:

Baycusan® products are completely free of cosolvents

like ethanol or N-methylpyrrolidone

Baycusan® products contain no preservatives

Baycusan® film formers can be used in low- or zero-VOC hair

styling products, thus meeting the most stringent environ-

mental regulations.

e a S y t o f o r m u l a t e

Baycusan® film formers offer several formulating advantages

compared to existing film formers:

Suitable for cold processing

High energy input not required

No neutralization required

Useful over a wide range of pH

Compatibility with commonly used cosmetic ingredients

m u l t i f u n c t i o n a l r a w m a t e r i a l

The Baycusan® product line is truly diverse: It is designed

for skin care, sun care, hair styling and color cosmetic ap-

plications. Polyurethanes meet many challenges of formulat-

ing elegant and up to date cosmetic products due to their

versatility and beautiful aesthetics. Aqueous Baycusan® film

former products form a clear, odorless film on skin and hair.

The process enables the design of unique polymer structures

with the following attributes:

Non-tacky, non-greasy and smooth skin feeling

Unique film elasticity and flexibility

Outstanding water/high humidity resistance

Exceptional SPF boosting effect

Baycusan® powder imparts a powdery, velvety finish on the

skin. In decorative cosmetics, Baycusan® powder improves

the spreadability, color expression and color uniformity of

formulations on the skin.

2 … 3

p o l y u r e t h a n e S

f o r c o S m e t i c S

e a S y t of o r m u l a t e

f i l m f o r m e r S a n d S e n S o r y a d d i t i v e S

e n v i r o n m e n t a l l y

f r i e n d l y

especially suitable suitable

b a y c u S a n ® c p o r t f o l i o

liquiD, aqueous polyurethane Dispersions poWDer

b ayc u S a n ® c 1000 c 1001 c 1003 c 1004 c 1008 c 1005

inci name Polyurethane-34 Polyurethane-34 Polyurethane-32 Polyurethane-35Polyurethane-x(proposed)

Methoxy PEG-17/Methoxy PEG-11/HDI Crosspolymer

Solids [%] 40 ± 2 32 ± 2 40 ± 2 50 ± 2 30 ± 2 100

Avg. particle size [µm] - - - - - 20 ± 5

pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.5 -

Viscosity [mPa·s] ‹ 500 ‹ 1000 ‹ 1000 ‹ 500 ‹ 1000

applic ations

Skin Care

Sun Care

Skin Mask

Hair Styling

Color Cosmetics

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[Sun c are]

SPF boosting effect

Outstanding water resistance

Stabilization properties

No “balling” effect

Non-greasy and non-sticky “skin feeling”

High formulation flexibility

Easy to use

[color coSmetic S]


Excellent abrasive resistance

Good non-transfer properties

Fast drying

Good balance of hardness and flexibility

Non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel on skin

Easy to remove

[hair St ylinG]

Excellent high humidity curl retention

Strong elastic memory

Natural strong hold

Conditioning effect (detangling effect)

Non-tacky feel and natural look

Excellent sprayability

Easy to remove (no build-up on hair)

[SU N CAR E ]Key features

SPF boosting effect


Stabilization properties

No “balling” effect

Non-greasy and non-sticky afterfeel on skin

High formulation fl exibility

Easy to use

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f i l m f o r m at i o n

When incorporated into sun care formulations, Baycusan® C 1000 forms a highly flexible, breathable film that mimics the move-

ment of skin. This film creates a naturally soft feel on the skin without any tightening sensation.

To determine the breathability of Baycusan® C 1000, the water vapor transmission of its film on hydrated vitro skin was measured.

For comparison, hydrated vitro skin was coated with either Baycusan® C 1000 or with a competitive polymer solution (40 % solids)

at a concentration of 2 mg/cm2. Figure 1 shows clearly that Baycusan® C 1000 forms a breathable film whereas an acrylates

copolymer film former is more occlusive than either the control or Baycusan® C 1000.

recommenDeD raW materials

t r a d e n a m e inci name chemical deScription uSe

Baycusan® C 1000 Polyurethane-34Aqueous polyurethane dispersion

(40 % polymer, 60 % water)Film former for any type of

sun care formulation

physic al properties

p h y S i c a l p ro p e rt i e S baycusan® c 1000

Solids 40.0 ± 2.0 %

Viscosity at 23 °C ≤ 500 mPa·s

pH 7.5 ± 1.0

Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C

Minimum film formation temperature of polymer* ‹ 0 °C

* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specification

14000

16000

12000

10000

8000

6000

4000

200

0

g/m

2 d

Figure 1: Water vapor transmission results

Controlvitro skin

Baycusan® C 1000 (as supplied)

Acrylates copolymer (40 % in Ethanol)

[APPLICATIONS ]polyurethane film former

baycuSan ® c 1000

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S p f b o o S t i n G e f f e c t

Figure 2 shows results of in vitro SPF measurement of oil-in-water sun care formulations containing different

UV filter combinations.

As shown in Figure 3, Baycusan® C 1000 is an effective SPF booster with Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Triazone,

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine and Benzophenone-3.

Sun care formulations containing combination of the above mentioned UV filters with other commonly used

UV filters show this SPF boosting effects in an analogous way. As shown in figure 3, this SPF boosting effect of

Baycusan® C 1000 is confirmed by in vitro as well as in vivo measurements.

10 % Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate - A

10 % Octocrylene - B

5 % Ethylhexyl Salicylate - C

10 % Homosalate - D

5 % Ethylhexyl Triazone - E

10 % Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyltriazine - F

10 % Methylene Bis-Benzoyltriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol - G

6 % Benzophenone-3 - H

Without film former

With 5.0 % Baycusan® C 1000

With 7.5 % Baycusan® C 1000

Figure 2: In vitro data for formulation with Baycusan® C 1000

30

35

25

20

15

10

5

0

In v

ivo

SPF

A B C D E F G H

2,41,9

5

12

5

24

11

33

42,7

53

12,312,7

6,7

14,4

Figure 3: In vivo SPF data formulations with and without Baycusan® C 1000

17.7

26

30

35

25

20

15

10

5

0

In v

ivo

SPF

RR 8014 RR 8021RR 8020

29.6

13.6

21.2

32.6

23.1

S ta b i l i Z at i o n p r o p e r t i e S

These light microscopy pictures show the effect of Baycusan® C 1000

on the structure of an oil-in-water emulsion and its influence on the

stability of the emulsion. By adding Baycusan® C 1000 in an oil-in-

water emulsion, the oil particle diameter is reduced and the particle

distribution narrow.

w at e r r e S i S ta n c e

The water resistance of oil-in-water formulations was evaluated on four formulations according to the COLIPA Guidelines (December, 2005) with five

panelists.

Table 1: In vivo water resistance data

fo r m u l at i o n concentration of baycusan® c 1000 [wt. %] (as supplied) water resistance retention [%]

RR 8020 7.5 54.1

RR 8021 5.0 61.6

RR 8022 7.5 66.8

RR 8023 7.5 98.2

Picture 1: Light microscopy, 1 week after formulating

rr 8021 without baycuSan® c 1000 rr 8021 with 5 wt. % baycuSan® c 1000


baycuSan ® c 1000

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Key features

baycusan® c polyurethane fi lm former


Excellent abrasive resistance

Good non-transfer properties

Fast drying

Non-greasy and non-tacky soft afterfeel on skin

Easy to remove

baycusan® c polyurea powder

Excellent skin feeling: powdery, velvety fi nish on skin

Outstanding pigment spreadability (even color coverage)

Enhancement of color expression

Excellent cohesive strength of product in pressed powder form

[COLOR COSMETICS]

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o u t S ta n d i n G w at e r r e S i S ta n c e f o r m a S c a r a f o r m u l at i o n S

An evaluation of water resistance was conducted in vitro by applying a mascara formulation on a wool swatch under controlled

conditions. After drying, coated swatches were submerged in water under gentle stirring at 25 °C for 30 minutes. The water resist-

ance was measured as the difference in color lightness (L*) and weight of the mascara layer before and after immersion. Oil-in-

water mascara formulations containing either Baycusan® C 1000 or Baycusan® C 1004 show improved water resistance:

79 % improvement in color retention in case of Baycusan® C 1000.

63 % improvement in color retention in case of Baycusan® C 1004.

Reduction of the weight loss of about 70 % with either Baycusan® C 1000 or Baycusan® C 1004.



Baycusan® C 1000 Polyurethane-34 Aqueous polyurethane dispersion (40 % polymer, 60 % water)

Film former for oil-in-water and water based color cosmetics formulations

Baycusan® C 1004 Polyurethane-35 Aqueous polyurethane dispersion (41 % polymer, 59 % water)

Universal film former for any type of color cosmetics formulation

Baycusan® C 1005Methoxy PEG-17/Methoxy PEG-11/HDI Crosspolymer

Polyurea powder (100 % polymer) Multifunctional sensory additive for any type of color cosmetics formulation


p h y S i c a l p ro p e rt i e S baycusan® c 1000 baycusan® c 1004 baycusan® c 1005

Solids 40.0 ± 2.0 % 41.0 ± 2.0 % 100 %

Avg. particle size – – 20 ± 5µm

Viscosity at 23 °C ≤ 500 mPa·s ≤ 500 mPa·s -

pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.5 ± 1.0 -

Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C -45.5 °C -

Minimum film formation temperature of polymer* ‹ 0 °C ‹ 0 °C -

* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specification


baycuSan® c 1000 and c 1004

Color retention [%]

Weight retention [%]

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

Rete

ntio

n [%

]

No film former Baycusan® C 1004 Baycusan® C 1000 PU dispersion 1 Acrylates copolymer 1 Acrylates copolymer 2

95,3

84,990,2

38,1

82,278,4

68,2

87,9

77,9

49,8

91,9

84

Figure 4: Color retention & weight retention results

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i m m e d i at e n o n - t r a n S f e r p r o p e r t i e S

The evaluation of non-transfer properties was conducted in vivo by spreading a fixed amount of foundation onto the forearm of

volunteers under controlled conditions. After drying, the volunteers left an imprint of their forearm on a sheet of absorbing paper.

As shown in picture 3, the imprints left from different foundation formulations containing Baycusan® C 1004 are significantly re-

duced compared to standard formulations without Baycusan® C 1004.

e X c e l l e n t r u b r e S i S ta n c e f o r m a S c a r a a n d e y e l i n e r f o r m u l at i o n S

Baycusan® C 1004 imparts superior rub-off resistance to color cosmetics formulations and is therefore an excellent choice for formulating waterproof and

rub-off resistant mascaras and eyeliners. Those excellent rub-off resistance properties of a mascara formulation (RR 8017) are demonstrated in picture 2.

warm tap water 10 SecondS Gentle rubbinG

baycuSan ® c 1004 o/w

Standard baycuSan® c 1004

w/o


w/S


no film former

baycuSan ® c 1004

no film former

Picture 2: Rub-off resistant results

Picture 3: Results of imprints


baycuSan® c 1000 and c 1004

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e n h a n c e m e n t o f c o l o r e X p r e S S i o n i n l i p S t i c K S

Baycusan® C 1005 positively affects the pigment spreadability of any type of

pigmented formulation. This excellent pigment spreadability is demonstrated

by an even color distribution on skin (better color pay-off ) and a better cover-

age, as shown in picture 4 in case of a lipstick formulation.

Picture 4: From left to right: control formulation 1 (with a compet-

itive powder 1), control formulation 2 (with a competitive powder

2), formulation with 2 wt. % Baycusan® C 1005 (formulation RR

8028).

i m p r o v e m e n t o f t h e c o h e S i v e S t r e n G t h o f p r e S S e d p o w d e r

Figure 5 displays the infl uence of Baycusan® C 1005 and other widely used powders like Nylon-12, Silica, Polyethylene etc. on the

cohesive strength of an eyeshadow pressed powder, at a concentration of 2 wt. % active. In order to quantify the cohesive strength

of the pressed powders, a drop test was performed: 10 times onto cement from a height of 30 cm. The number of drops required

to produce cracks in the pressed powder was noted. As shown in Figure 5, Baycusan® C 1005 imparts not only a powdery, velvety

fi nish on skin, but improves signifi cantly the cohesive strength of the formula, too.

[APPLICATIONS ]p o ly u r e a p o w d e r

b ayc u S a n ® c 1 0 0 5

e l e G a n t f i n i S h a n d l u X u r i o u S f e e l

Sensory evaluation was performed on a liquid foundation containing Baycusan® C 1005 and compared to a negative control (without powder). As

illustrated below, in the sensory profi le chart, Baycusan® C 1005 provides better spreadability and a powdery and less tacky afterfeel on the skin.

Furthermore, Baycusan® C 1005 imparts superior even-color coverage and color brightness in the formulation in comparison to a negative control.

15,0

12,0

9,0

6,0

3,0

0,0

Transferability*

Fluidity

Consistence

Thickness

Powdery sensation

Easiness of spreading

Velvety skin

Oily skin

Stickiness

Powdery touch

Brightness of the colour

Covering effect

Uniformity

Velvety effect

Shining skin

Comment: The attributes were quantifi ed on

linear scales from 0 to 15.

0 means that the attribute is not detectable and

15 means 100 % detectable.

The attributes with an asterisk (*) are signifi cant.

Control Baycusan® C 1005

SenSory profile of a liQuid foundation (performed by dermSc an):

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

Reco

rded

# o

f dro

ps,

whe

n cr

acki

ng is

vis

ible

Without

10

BismuthOxychloride

3

Polyethylene

4

Methyl MethacrylaseCrosspolymer

10

Nylon-12

6

Silica

7

Calcium AluminiumBorosilicate

1

Baycusan®

C1005

no c

rack

ing

visi

ble

Figure 5: Water vapor transmission results

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[HAI R STYLING]

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Key features

Excellent high humidity curl retention

Strong elastic memory Natural strong hold

Conditioning effect (detangling effect)

Non-tacky feel and natural look

Excellent sprayability

Easy to remove (no build-up on hair)

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e X c e l l e n t h i G h h u m i d i t y c u r l r e t e n t i o n

Baycusan® C 1001 and Baycusan® C 1008 provide excellent high humidity curl retention for styling formulations, even better than

traditional styling polymers. As shown below, curl retention is measured as a function of time at 75 % humidity and at 25 °C.

Caucasian, dark brown hair tresses were treated with an aqueous solution of Baycusan® C 1001 and Baycusan® C 1008 at a con-

centration of 2 wt. % active (~0.3 g of Baycusan® C solution/0,7 g hair).

va r i a b l e h o l d i n G p o w e r

Figure 6/7 shows a comparison of fl exural strength tests (2 wt. % active polymer in alcoholic solution, 50 % relative humidity,

21 °C). Baycusan® C 1008 imparts a strong holding power, in the same level as state of art acrylate copolymers.

95

100

90

85

80

75

70

65

60

55

500 50 100 150 200 250 300 350

Time [min.]

Hig

h H

umid

ity

Curl

Ret

enti

on [%

]

Baycusan® C 1008 Acrylate copolymer Baycusan® C 1001



Baycusan® C 1001 Polyurethane-34Aqueous polyurethane dispersion

(32 % polymer, 68 % water)Hair styling fi lm former for any

kind of hair styling product

Baycusan® C 1008 Polyurethane-x (proposed)Aqueous polyurethane dispersion

(30 % polymer, 70 % water)Hair styling fi lm former for any

kind of hair styling product


p h y S i c a l p ro p e rt i e S baycusan® c 1001 baycusan® c 1008

Solids 32.0 ± 2.0 % 30.0 ± 2.0 %

Viscosity at 23 °C ‹ 1000 mPa·s ‹ 1000 mPa·s

pH 7.5 ± 1.0 7.0 ± 1.5

Glass transition temperature of polymer* -51.5 °C -45.5 °C

Minimal fi lm formation temperature of polymer* ‹ 0 °C ‹ 5 °C

* These values provide general information and are not part of the product specifi cation Baycusan® C 1008

Baycusan® C 1001

Competitive PU1

Competitive PU2

Acrylate copolymer

Maximum bending force [cN]

0 50 100 150 200 250

Figure 6/7: Results of HHCR test and fl exural strength tests

[APPLICATIONS ]p o ly u r e t h a n e f i l m f o r m e r

b ayc u S a n ® c 1 0 0 1 a n d c 1 0 0 8

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curl retention meaSurement after dry combinG

Baycusan® C 1001 Acrylate copolymer Competitive PUD

90

85

80

75

70

65

60

55

50

45

40

0 10 20 30 5040

x comb-through

% C

url r

eten

tion

reSultS after 40x dry comb-throuGh

initial curl acrylate copolymer competitive polyurethane baycusan® c 1001

e X c e l l e n t S t y l e r e t e n t i o n

Elasticity is one of the key characteristics of Baycusan® C 1001. This property results in excellent curl resilience, as shown on figure 8 and pictures

below. The graph illustrates the change in curl retention after combing through. After combing through 10 times, Baycusan® C 1001 clearly exhibits a

superior curl retention in comparison to an acrylate copolymer and a competitive polyurethane. The pictures below show the results after combing

through 40 times.

h i G h e l a S t i c i t y o n h a i r

Compared to traditional fixative polymers, Baycusan® C 1001 forms exceptionally flexible films on hair. Below are

SEM images of single knotted hair fibers coated with an acrylate copolymer and Baycusan® C 1001. Under stress,

the acrylate copolymer film becomes very brittle, while the film on Baycusan® C 1001 remains smooth and shows

no cracking.

baycuSan ® c 1001 acryl ateS copolymer

Figure 8: CR measurements Picture 5: Results after combing

26 … 27

curious? then visit us at www.bayercosmetics.com or contact us.

martin hüttner

phone: 0049 – (0)214 – 30 81712

email: [email protected]

Sophie viala

phone: 0049 – (0)214 – 30 44762

email: [email protected]

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