Ghent In Your Pocket

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GHENt

Music to your earsWelcome to Ghent: UNESCO City of Music. From the Gentse Feesten to Vooruit 100 and Parkkaffee, there’s a concert this year for everyone

FoodDiscover why Ghent is Belgium’s top culinary destination. Isn‘t life simply njummie?

July 2013 - January 2014

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well- written series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

Contents

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3Contents

July 2013 - January 2014ghent.inyourpocket.com

E S S E N T I A L C I T Y G U I D E S

Arrival & Transport 5How to get to your hotel

The Basics 8Getting to grips with Ghent

History 11The city’s past on two pages

Culture & Events 13Concerts, galleries and events

Where to stay 20Beds for backpackers and business executives

Dining & Nightlife 24From light drinking to heavy eating

Cafés 32Classic cafés and bakeries

Nightlife 35Plunge into one of Ghent’s bars: loungy, hip, dark: a bar to everyone’s taste.

Sightseeing 38Museums, churches and other sights

Vooruit, photo by Anke Sanders

Contents

List of small featuresGreat Bradley Wiggins 8

Noosebearers 11

Ghent, UNESCO City of Music 17

Parkkaffee 19

Ghent’s Culinary Prodigies: The Flemish

Foodies and Beyond 31

Het Lam Gods 39

Shopping 45For the ultimate gift & souvenirs

Directory 51Pharmacies, banks and barbers

Maps & IndexCountry map 53

Street index 54

City centre map 55

City map 56-57

Index 58Lys, photo by Anke Sanders

Ghent In Your Pocket ghent.inyourpocket.com

4 Foreword arrival & transport

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Forget Bruges, Antwerp, and even Brussels: it’s Ghent, a modern, buzzing city with a wonderful medieval centre that should be on top of your ‘things to visit in Belgium’ list. The city’s many beautiful historical buildings, winding canals, bustling international port, top-rated university, museums, shops, restaurants and bars are guaranteed to make a visit worth your while. What Ghent might lack in size (it only has around 250,000 inhabitants), and medieval facades (slightly fewer than Bruges), it makes up for in jovial atmosphere, cultural activities, unstoppable entrepreneurial drive, and unmistakable joie de vivre. A case in point is the infamous ten-day-long Ghent Festival (Gentse Feesten in Dutch), held every summer. About two million visitors attend the Stroppendragers’ (see Noose-bearers on p.11) party each year. Ghent is a city of contrasts: it effortlessly combines the old and the new in its architecture, traditions and citizens alike. Amidst the medieval Saint Bavo’s Cathedral and Belfroy, young families go about their lives. Students enjoy a traditional Neuzeke (purple candy) or a shot of Filliers jenever before exploring the sizzling Ghent nightlife. Pensioners can have a beer in the ultra-modern Stadshal (nicknamed the Sheep Pen). One thing all Ghent citizens have in common is the fact that they take pride in their cultural heritage. This year, Ghent invites everyone to celebrate its rich cultural history with a number of events. A little over 100 years ago, King Albert I and Queen Elisabeth inaugurated the World Fair in Ghent. The Exposition universelle et internationale de Gand was one of the most spectacular world fairs to date. Ghent’s many cultural institutions and organizations have seized the hundredth anniversary of the Ghent world exhibition to present a series of exhibitions in which they highlight the significance of 1913 for society today. Another birthday girl is the much-loved Vooruit: the grand old lady of Ghent’s cultural scene is 100 this year. During Vooruit100 (which runs until October 2013) the building in the Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat opens its doors

to everyone interested in Vooruit history. Activities include the Cooperette, where you can repair clothes and make new things, and the Think Bar, a place where ideas, proposals, scenarios and projects are examined and shared. During this anniversary year, the Vooruit Café offers up some unique recipes from well-known chefs, as well as a specially brewed beer, the Triomfbier. Moreover, the Vooruit in Ghent app guides smartphone users through Ghent’s city centre, hot on the trail of creativity and transition, key words both of Vooruit, and of Ghent. Finally, the STAM museum hosts an an intriguing historical exhibition of the Vooruit building, its significance for Ghent and the many activities that have taken place during the past century. The Film Festival Gent might be a long way off being a centenarian, but its 40th edition, scheduled for October 8th-19th, 2013, merits a celebration nonetheless. The festival was first established as a student film festival, and has since developed into one of Europe’s most prominent film events, attracting over 130,000 visitors each year. Many international guests from the world of film flock to Ghent to present their films to the general public. In addition to the screenings, the Film Festival Gent also organizes film-related exhibitions. What makes the Festival truly unique, however, is its focus on film music: every year, the festival organizes film music concerts, giving composers of film scores the platform they deserve. An annual highlight are the World Soundtrack Awards, the most prestigious soundtrack awards in the world. After exploring these events, and the many other delights Ghent has to offer, it will be hard not to fall for this exciting, picturesque city. This In Your Pocket guide gladly takes you on a tour of the very best of Ghent. Hungry for more? Check out additional information online at www.inyourpocket.com/belgium. We welcome all of your suggestions and comments: send them to [email protected]. All that’s left is for us to wish you a fantastic time in Ghent, which is, as they say in Ghent slang, ‘vree wijs’! (‘very cool’)

Foreword


5arrival & transport

Beautiful cities always have a tourist office and Ghent is no exception. For information about the city, head to Ghent Tourist Office. If you want to know something about the surrounding region, step inside the office of Toerisme Oost-Vlaanderen.

Ghent Tourist Office B-2, Sint-Veerleplein 5, tel. (+32) 926 65 660, fax (+32) 926 65 673, [email protected], www.visitgent.be. To find the city’s tourist information office, walk through the gate in the corner of the square and you will spot it directly on the left. A large selection of brochures, leaflets and city maps is avail-able, including maps with thematic walking routes and a brochure specifically for vegetarian visitors. Try the futur-istic touch-screen tables, which will provide visitors with lots of information about the city and ideas for places to visit. If you still have questions, the knowledgeable staff will enthusiastically answer them. The tourist information office is also the departure point for guided walks in the city. QOpen 15/10 > 14/03: 09:30 - 16:30/ 15/03 > 14/10 : 09.30-18.30. TJAUGW

Toerisme Oost-Vlaanderen B -3, Sint-Nik-laasstraat 2, tel. (+32) 926 92 600, fax (+32) 926 92 609, [email protected], www.tov.be. If you plan to explore the region around Ghent, the provincial tourist information office is a good place to start. This office is particularly well equipped with cycling and hiking maps, which you can buy for a small fee. You can also pick up brochures about various regions in East Flanders and the helpful staff will gladly advise you about journeys into the rural area around the city. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00 & 13:15-16:45. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Tourist information

Ghent is easily explored on foot with most of the sights lo-cated within the relatively small city centre. Riding a bicycle around the city is not a bad idea either. The flat terrain and the generally short distances make cycling a lovely way to discover town. That being said, Ghent also has a well organised public transport system, reaching nearly every corner of the city.

All trams and buses in Flanders are operated by the transport company De Lijn. You can find a route planner, schedules and network maps at the company’s website, www.delijn.be, or at a Lijnwinkel or Ghent Tourist Office.

Tickets can be bought either directly from the driver inside buses and trams, at a Lijnwinkel or in most supermar-kets and newspaper shops. Lijnwinkels are located at Sint-Pieters station, Gent-Zuid (Graaf van Vlaanderenplein) and at Korenmarkt. A single ticket costs €2 if bought from the driver or €1.20 if bought in advance. If you plan to use city transport regularly, you could buy a Lijnkaart for €9, which allows you to make 10 single journeys. You could also choose to get a day pass for €5 (€7 if purchased from the driver) or a 3-day pass for €10 (€12 from driver). Tickets always need to be validated by using the yellow machine inside trams and buses. Stick the ticket in the machine and press the number of zones you are travelling though. Unless you are travelling outside the city limits, this will be just one zone.

By carDriving to the centre of Ghent can be a difficult task and be quite costly.

There are four different zones, and they are split into two dif-ferent sections. You have the choice of Kort Parkeren (short-term parking, maximum three hours) and Dagparkeren (24 hours). Parking costs vary, from €2 an hour in the centre of the city up to €10 for a full day. Remember, however, that it’s hard to find a parking spot in or near the Old Town. Don’t park without paying unless you fancy a huge fine. If you’re coming from out of town, free parking at one of the six Park and Ride locations is your best option. The only damage is €2 for a tram ticket to town (or €1.20 if you buy it in advance).

There are Park & Ride facilities at:P+R Gentbrugge (250 parking places)P+R Oostakker (200 parking places)P+R Flanders Expo (106 parking places)P+R Wondelgem Industrieweg (48 parking places)P+R Mariakerke (25 parking places)P+R Gentbrugge Moscou (15 parking places)If you’re still determined to drive into the Old Town then look for a parking garage. There are nine parking garages in Ghent. Rates vary, but you will pay around €1,50 an hour. You can find them easily by following the electronic signs on the billboards when you enter the city from what-ever direction: the signs will also tell you how many free spaces are available. Further details of parking garages in town can be found here: www.parkeerbedrijf.gent.be.

PublisherGhent In Your Pocket Lariksenstraat 12. B-1050 Brussels, BelgiumTel. (+32) 473 51 30 02, [email protected], www.inyourpocket.comISSN 2034-8975© BIYP SPRL/BVBAPrinted by PAPERLAND S.A.Published twice per year,20 000 copies annualy

Editorial Editors Sofie Steen, Craig TurpContributors Astrid Vandendaele, Kristel Vereecken, Jean Jacques HausDesign Vaida GudynaitePhotography Reine Ortiz, Anke Sanders, Visit-Gent

Cover Visit-Gent

Sales & Circulation General Manager Reine Ortiz

Sales Reine Ortiz, Sofie Steen

Circulation Reine Ortiz, Bubble Post

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright BIYP SPRL/BVBA 2013. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinų 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370) 5 212 29 76).

MapsAQUATERRA N.V.


6 arrival & transport arrival & transport

Ghent has two railway stations: Sint-Pieters and Dampoort.

Most trains arrive at Ghent Sint-Pieters (A-6). A tunnel connects the twelve platforms with the central hall. Enter-ing the central hall from the tunnel, the ticket office (open 05:45 - 22:00, Sat and Sun 06:00 - 22:00) is located on the left side. There are three ATMs in the central hall, several kiosks, some coffee shops and a photo booth. The toilets are located on the path towards the west-ern exit and these cost €0.50. You can change currency at the Europa Bank (open 09:30 - 13:00 & 14:00 - 17:00, Thu 09:30 - 13:00 & 14:00 - 18:30, closed Sat, Sun), which is also located towards the western exit. Lockers for lug-gage storage are opposite the bank. A small locker costs €3.00, a medium one €3.50 and a large locker €4.00, all for a 24 hour period. If have such a large suitcase there is also a manual luggage storage. For €4.00, the man behind the counter in the lost and found office (open 06:15 - 21:30) will happily take care of your belongings. This is also for a 24 hour period and you can find the lost and found opposite the ticket office. Getting to town: From Sint-Pieters station, tram 1 is the quickest option to the centre. When you exit the station, the tram stop is on the left side. Wait at platform 2 and hop on a tram directed at Evergem. You could buy tickets for buses and trams from the driver, these cost €2. If you buy a ticket in advance, it costs €1.20. In case you prefer taking a taxi, both railway stations have a row of taxis lined up in front of the station entrances. Ghent-Dampoort station (D-2): All trains coming from and going to Antwerp stop at Dampoort. This small station is closer to the city centre and usually more con-venient if you are travelling to or from Antwerp. The ticket office (open 05:45 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 06:00 - 20:30) is located inside the waiting room, where you will also find lockers for luggage storage. Beware that the waiting room closes at 20:30 and you cannot get access to the lockers after that time. Just outside the main entrance is an ATM. After 22:00 you have to enter the station through the side entrance next to the parking area. Getting to town: The walk from Dampoort station to the city centre takes about 15 minutes, but you could also take bus 3, 38 or 39. These buses all leave from platform 1 on the opposite side of the road next to the railway bridge.

By train

By planeGhent does not have its own airport, but getting to the city from Belgium’s major airports is quite straightforward.

The country’s largest flight hub, Brussels Airport (Za-ventem), is about an hour away from Ghent. Those taking budget carriers like Ryanair and Wizz to Belgium will land at Brussels Charleroi Airport, 50km outside of Brussels proper. Antwerp Airport only handles a few charter flights, but if you happen to arrive here, take bus 14 to Antwerp Central station and hop on a train there. The trip to Ghent will take about 1.5 hours. Flights to Ostend-Bruges Airport are also limited to a few charters. From here, bus 5 and 6 run to Ostend railway station, from where trains to Ghent are leaving three times an hour.

Brussels Airport Leopoldlaan, Zaventem, tel. (+32) 275 37 753, www.brusselsairport.be. Next to a village called Zaventem, 12 kilometres from central Brussels, lies Belgium’s prime international airport. Taking a taxi to central Brussels will cost about €45. A cheaper option is to make the 15 minute train ride to Brussels Central station, from where you can change trains to nearly every corner of the country. The railway station at the airport is at level -1. There are two direct trains leaving Brussels Airport for Ghent: the IR-train (final destination De Panne) is the quickest and takes 55 minutes to complete the journey to Ghent. The other direct train, (final destination Ghent Sint-Pieters) is much slower due to the many stops on the way. You can also take any train from the airport to Brussels North railway station and change there. A ticket from Brussels Airport to Ghent costs €11.80. GWBrussels Charleroi Airport rue des Frères Wright 8, Charleroi, tel. (+32) 902 02 490, www.charleroi-airport.com. After collecting your luggage you have essentially two options for travel to Ghent: take a shuttle bus to Brussels Midi and catch a train to Ghent Sint Piet-ers from there, or take bus A to Charleroi railway station. The Brussels City Shuttle can be found directly outside the terminal, leaves every 30 minutes and the €13 ticket can be purchased online in advance, from the driver, or via one of the streetside vending machines. Those opting for Charleroi’s train station will have to change trains at Brussels Midi.

BusesAlthough Ghent lacks a central bus station, nearly every part of the city can be reached by bus. Most towns in the surrounding area are connected to Ghent by bus as well. The main hubs in the city’s bus network are at Zuid (Graaf van Vlaanderenplein), Sint-Pieters station and Dampoort station. Regular buses run from 06:00 until 23:00.

Waiting for the boats on Korenlei, photo by Reine Ortiz

arrival & transport


7arrival & transport

Biker C-2, Steendam 16, tel. (+32) 922 42 903, www.bikerfietsen.net. Biker sells, repairs and rents bicycles. The rental fee is €9 per day. QOpen 09:00 - 12:30 & 13:30-18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JDe Ligfiets D-4, Lange Violettestraat 49, tel. (+32) 922 50 777, fax (+32) 922 34 496, [email protected], www.deligfiets.be. Have you ever wanted to ride a recumbent bicycle? Well, here is your chance. De Ligfiets, which means ‚the recumbent bike’ in Dutch, rents these relaxing bicycles for €25 per day. The store is only open three days a week, but you can make an appointment for other days. QOpen 14:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. JMax Mobiel A-6, Voskenslaan 27, tel. (+32) 924 28 040, fax (+32) 924 28 049, [email protected], www.max-mobiel.be. Located behind Sint-Pietersstation, you can rent a bicycle here for €9 per day or €25 per week. Max Mobiel is primarily aimed at local commuters, but tourists are welcome as well.People getting off at Dampoortstation can also col-lect a bike there. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

Bicycle rental

is about 40 percent cheaper than a normal return ticket. I f you are staying in Belgium for a while, you could consider buying a Rail Pass (€76), which allows you to make 10 single journeys within Belgium. Travel-lers who haven’t yet reached the age of 26 could get a Go-Pass for €50.

TramsThree tram lines run through the city. The most frequent and perhaps the most useful one is tram 1, which travels from Flanders Expo, via Sint-Pieters station to Evergem. Tram 4 tours around the city centre from the suburb Moscou, via Zuid and Sint-Pieters station to Zwijnaarde-brug, at the city’s southern edge. Trams are frequent and you will rarely be waiting longer than 8 minutes. The latest departures are roughly at 23:00.

Riding a bike is fun for the whole family © Ghent City Council

Eurolines A-6, Koningin Elisabethlaan 73, tel. (+32) 922 09 024, www.eurolines.be. I f you want to take a cheap bus to discover another exotic destination, the Eurolines bus might be your thing! You can take your bottle of Roomer or your box of chocolates with you to Stock-holm, Paris or even Bratislava. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 08:45 - 12.30&13:30-17:45, Sat 09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun.

Car rentalAvis Kortrijksesteenweg 676, tel. (+32) 922 20 053, www.avis.be. QOpen 08:00 - 12:00 & 13:00-18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. ALHertz Nieuwewandeling 76, tel. (+32) 922 40 406, fax (+32) 922 40 604, [email protected], www.hertz.be. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TA

TaxisThere are five official taxi ranks in Ghent:Gent-Sint-Pietersstation, Gent-Dampoort station, Korenmarkt, Woodrow Wilsonplein and Flanders Expo.The flag-down rate for all taxis is fixed at €8, which includes the first 3 kilometres and a waiting time of 5 minutes. Every addi-tional kilometre costs €2 and at night (between 22:00 and 06:00) there is a flat surcharge of €2.50. Taxi drivers are always required to use the meter, even to destinations outside the city perimeter. The only excep-tion to this rule applies to long-distance journeys with fixed rates. Such destinations include Brussels Airport (€95) and Brussels South-Charleroi Airport (€140).

CR Taxi Zuidledeplein 19, tel. (+32) 489 22 20 80, fax (+32) 925 92 188, [email protected], www.taxicr.be. A reliable taxi company. It is possible to book a taxi for up to six passengers. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PAMinerva Watertaxi A-3, B-4, Coupure Rechts 2a, tel. (+32) 923 37 917, fax (+32) 378 91 759, www.minervaboten.be. This boat rental company offers a water taxi service along the Leie River, but you will have to book in advance. Minerva also rents its boats for trips upstream the scenic Leie River, into the rural area southwest of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Prices: €50/hour, €20/hour waiting time. JV-Tax Wiedauwkaai 98, tel. (+32) 922 22 222, fax (+32) 922 24 436, [email protected], www.v-tax.be. One of the largest and oldest taxi companies in the country. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A

TrainsWith 3513 kilometres of railroads,Belgium has one of the densest railway networks in the world. Train travel is the easiest way to get around in the country. Gent-Sint-Pietersstation has trains departing in all di-rections.Every train that travels to or from Antwerp also stops at Gent-Dampoort station. Belgium’s national railway company, NMBS (SNCB in French), runs three types of trains: Intercity trains (IC) are the quickest ones, Interregio trains (IR) usually have a few more stops and the slowest type is the Local train (L). For departure times and fares, surf to www.b-rail.be.Tickets can be bought at ticket offices, vending ma-chines or from the conductor inside the train. I f you buy a ticket inside the train you have to pay a €3 surcharge and you will have to immediately notify the conductor (otherwise you could be fined).First class tickets are about 50% more expensive than second class tickets, but not really worth the extra money. A weekend ticket


8 BasiCs BasiCs

Read on and find out why the Belgian police do not allow you to ride a bicycle with a passenger on the back seat, along with many other useful Belgian facts.

AlcoholBelgians love to go to the pub and enjoy the country’s famously fresh beer, considered to be the national drink. Most pubs serve Belgian beers of which the best known are Jupiler, Maes and Stella, but in the city centre many bars serve a much wider range of regional beers. Watch out for the heavier stuff like Delirium Tremens (9%), which makes you see pink elephants...For those who stick around more than a day, city brewery Gruut -C-3- is worth a visit. Restaurants, pubs and shops serve and sell beer and wine to anyone over the age of 16, although to buy and consume spirits you have to be 18. Speaking of spirits, look out for the infamous Jenever: a potent liquor that Belgians enjoy inflicting on tourists.

ClimateWhile it’s usually cold and wet in winter and often warm and dry in summer, but unfortunately you never really know in this mild sea-climate. So it’s always wise to bring a raincoat or an umbrella. Whatever the weather, Belgians always find a reason to complain about it. A good website to check the current weather in your favourite Belgian city is www.meteo.be.

CyclingGhent is a great town to explore by bike. Even though a lot of monuments are within walking distance of each other, a bicycle gives you the chance to see more in less time. A couple of cycling routes will get you to the different corners of the town and then beyond. Bikers pretty much reign the city. They can cycle in almost every street and a part of the historical centre is car-free. Overall, Ghent is

Postal delivery in Belgium is generally reliable. Wireless internet is also sweeping the nation. Read here how to keep in touch with your loved ones back home. Straight from the bar or one of the many terraces.

Mobile phonesYou can use your mobile phone if your provider has an international roaming agreement with one of the mobile phone networks of Belgium. Normally, if you’re abroad, you have to pay roaming charges on all incoming and outgoing calls, text messages, mms and internet.

Dialing All In Your Pocket guides list country codes before all telephone numbers. The Belgian country code is (+32).

PostThe Belgium postal system works more or less infallibly. Letters and parcels are sent without ado across the whole world. At post offices you can buy stamps and drop off parcels. Posting a letter or a postcard within Belgium will cost you €0.77, within Europe €1,13 and for the rest of the world you pay €1.34. For parcel shipping prices and the most up-to-date postage rates check www.bpost.be. Some supermarkets have a ‚postpunt’, indicating that you can buy stamps there and post your letters or parcels.

Postkantoor Gent Centrum B-3, Lange Kruisstraat 55, tel. (+32) 220 12 345, www.bpost.be. The post office at Gent Centrum is the largest in the city centre. If wou want to avoid the big crowds, come in the quieter periods (between 09:00-10:00, 13:00-14:00 or 17:00-18:00). Mail can also be posted in the red letter boxes spread all over Ghent. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. JU

Wireless internetIf you’d like to check your e-mail or just surf the web while sipping a chai tea, just look for one of the many hotels, bars, restaurants and cafes that offer free wireless internet acces in their rooms. Many times you have to ask the staff for the current password or fill in their phone number, which actually also works most of the time. Just look for the wifi symbol in this guide to find venues with free wireless access.

Mail & Phones

Who knew? The first Englishman to ever win the Tour de France, Bradley Wiggins, is a son of... Ghent. Wiggins, who won Le Tour in 2012 and who will start this year’s race as the favourite, was born in Ghent in 1980, the son of an English mother Linda and an Australian father, Gary. Wiggins Sr. was also a professional cyclist, and at the time was riding for the now defunct Marc-ARD team, which was based in Ghent. After his parents divorced in 1982, Wiggins moved to England with his mother, and would not see his father again for more than 14 years. Living in Maida Vale, north London, Wiggins attended the St Augustine’s Church of England High School, a comprehensive in Kilburn at which his mother worked. He began cycle racing at the age of 12 at the Herne Hill Velodrome, recalling recently in an interview that: ‘At 12 I told my art teacher, I’m going to be Olympic champion, I’m going to wear the yellow jersey in the Tour.’ And much more besides, he could have added. Wig-gins’s career began in track cycling, specialising in the pursuit and the Madison, before he gradually moved into road racing. He has won six cycling World Championships, his first in 2003 and his most recent in 2008. He won a bronze medal at the 2000 Summer Olympics, a gold, a silver and a bronze at the 2004 Summer Olympics, two golds at the 2008 Summer Olympics and another gold at the 2012 Summer Olympics. After the 2008 Olympics, Wiggins took a break from the track to focus on the road. Initially viewed as a time trial specialist and as a rouleur, Wiggins showed his ability in stage races when he came fourth in the 2009 Tour de France (later promoted to third after Lance Armstrong’s results were voided in 2012). His first victory in a major stage race came in the 2011 Critérium du Dauphiné, and later that year finished third in the Vuelta a España. He then took second in the time trial at the 2011 UCI Road World Championships. In 2012 - besides winning the Tour and taking two individual stages - Wiggins won the Paris–Nice, the Tour de Romandie, the Critérium du Dauphiné, and the time trial at the Olympics. He was then given a knighthood in the Queen’s New Year honours list, but has since gone on to say that he will not use the title Sir until he retires from cycling.

Great Bradley Wiggins

BasiCs


9BasiCs

Dutch is spoken in Flanders, the upper part of Belgium. Although it is almost identical to the language used in the Netherlands, in Belgium the Dutch language is called Flemish. In Flanders, most people have a fairly good knowledge of English. Next to Dutch, Belgium also has French and German as national languages. Almost 60 per cent of the Belgian population speaks Dutch. French is the common language in Brussels and Wallonia (the southern part of the country). Only one per cent of the countrys population uses German as its mother tongue, spoken in a few communities in the east of Belgium.

Useful Phrases in DutchHow are you? Hoe is het ermee?Pleased to meet you. Aangename kennismaking.Do you speak English? Spreekt u Engels?Where is the nearest shop, hotel, restaurant, bar or toilet?Is er een winkel, een hotel, een restaurant, een café of een toilet in de buurt?What’s your name? Wat is uw naam?My name is … Mijn naam is ...What time is it? Hoe laat is het?How much? Hoeveel kost dit?Hello HalloGood morning GoeiemorgenGood evening GoeieavondGoodnight GoeienachtGoodbye DaaaaagYes JaNo NeeMaybe MisschienThank you Bedankt

Days of the weekMonday maandagTuesday dinsdagWednesday woensdagThursday donderdagFriday vrijdagSaturday zaterdagSunday zondag

Numbers1 een 13 dertien 2 twee 14 veertien3 drie 15 vijftien 4 vier 16 zestien5 vijf 17 zeventien 6 zes 18 achttien7 zeven 19 negentien8 acht 20 twintig9 negen 21 eenentwintig10 tien 100 honderd11 elf 500 vijfhonderd12 twaalf

Street smartsStreet, road straatSquare / Market pleinAirport luchthavenPort havenBus station busstationTrain station treinstationTaxi taxi

Language

Population (Belgium): 10,839,905 (in 2010)Longest rivers: Maas (Meuse) an Schelde (Scheldt)Highest point: Botrange (694m)Length of Belgian coastline: 66,5 kmLand area: 30.528 km²Borders: Belgium has borders with the Netherlands, Germany, Luxembourg and France.Capital: Brussels

Facts & Figures

as flat as a pancake, but don’t misjudge the steep streets surrounding the Blandijnberg. Those streets make you crave you had the stamina of a top Belgian cyclist like Tom Boonen. A couple of things to keep in mind: beware of the tramlines, as once your wheel gets stuck in it, you will fall. Remember to always lock your bike because - to the frus-tration of many bikers - stealing bikes is the national sport of Belgium’s rascals. And don’t even think about having your loved one (or anyone else) riding on the back of your bike, as the police will hit you with a heavy fine.

Disabled travellersMost public places and facilities in Ghent are acces-sible for disabled travellers. Most pavements have been adapted with rubber strips, and traffic lights at crossings have clicking systems. Accessible Travel Info Point is a service of the Flemish Tourist Board that people with disabilities can consult when travelling to Flanders. I f you’re travelling by train in wheelchair, the Belgian rail system asks to go get in touch with the sta-tion of departure at least - believe it or not - 24 hours in advance.

ElectricityThe electrical current is 220V AC, 50Hz. European plugs are a must. At least i f you wanna be connected to the outside world...

Emergency numbersDial the European emergency number 112 in case of emergency. The number will connect you with local po-lice, ambulance or fire department. For all other cases (for instance Anonymous Alcoholics, the Drugsline and Abusement of Elders hotline - really), just surf to www.noodnummer.be.

Health & SafetyGhent is a relatively safe city for residents and tourists, but you should watch out for pickpockets. Obviously, don’t leave your belongings unattended and use common sense at all times. There is a large police presence in the centre. Nevertheless, try to avoid unlit streets and parks late at night. As mentioned elsewhere, bicycle theft is common so a good lock is essential.

Local timeFrom the last weekend of March till the last weekend of October, Belgium is in the Central European Summer Time Zone, or GMT+2. During the rest of the year the clock ticks according to the Central European Time Zone, or GMT+1 .


10 BasiCs history

Central Africa Gouvernementstraat 16, tel. (+32) 923 42 969, [email protected] Rozemarijnstraat 47, tel. (+32) 922 32 045, [email protected] D’Ivoir Kouter 71/72, tel. (+32) 922 30 571, [email protected] Noorwegenstraat 11, tel. (+32) 925 44 480, [email protected] Gouvernementstraat 20, tel. (+32) 922 59 920, [email protected] H. Frère-Orbanlaan 376, tel. (+32) 922 31 895, [email protected] Prinsenhof 38, tel. (+32) 922 31 043, [email protected] Oude Heirweg 6, tel. (+32) 938 08 668, [email protected] J.Plateaustraat 49, tel. (+32) 922 50 174, [email protected] Coupure 371, tel. (+32) 922 30 258, [email protected] Vinkendal 15, tel. (+32) 922 65 506, [email protected] Nelemeerstraat 31, tel. (+32) 928 25 373, [email protected] Koningin Astridlaan 185, tel. (+32) 922 18 021, [email protected] Lange Kruisstraat 7, tel. (+32) 473 400 277, [email protected] Gentstraat 13, tel. (+32) 938 45 342, [email protected] Deinsesteenweg 109, tel. (+32) 927 72 041, [email protected] Lange Kruisstraat 7, tel. (+32) 923 54 935, [email protected] Bij Sint-Jacob 15, tel. (+32) 922 53 068, [email protected] Tentoonstellingslaan 54, tel. (+32) 926 57 632, [email protected] Netherlands Recollettenlei 12, tel. (+32) 922 51 816, [email protected] Kortrijksesteenweg 1004, tel. (+32) 922 14 177, [email protected].

Consulates

MoneySince 2002, a large part of the European Union has adopt-ed the euro as its local currency and Belgium is no excep-tion. One euro contains 100 euro cents. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 euro cents, and also of 1 and 2 euro. Banknotes are available with the following values: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Although a collection of €200 and €500 bills in your wallet might make you feel like the richest man on the planet, bear in mind that they’re almost never accepted in shops or restaurants. You can exchange and withdraw money at most large banks; there are plenty in the city centre. All Belgian banks accept Visa and MasterCard at their cash dispensers and there are ATMs all over Ghent. Many restaurants, hotels and shops accept credit cards, although a lot of grocery stores require a minimum purchase. Most bars only accept cash.

On national holidays, almost all shops, restaurants and public places are closed. If the holiday falls on a Tues-day or Thursday some places make the bridge with the weekend and take the extra day.During school holidays expect shopping streets, histori-cal attractions and public transport to be more crowded. Take this in consideration when booking your trip.

21 July 2013: Belgian National Day 15 August 2013: Assumption Day 1 November 2013: All Saints’ Day 11 November 2013: Armistice Day 25 December 2013: Christmas1 January 2014: New Year

School holidaysSummer holiday: 1 July- 31 August 2013Autumn half-term break: 28 October - 3 November 2013Spring half-term break: 3 - 9 March 2014Easter holiday: 7 - 20 April 2014

National holidays

SmokingSince July 2011, smoking in all bars and nightclubs has only been allowed in separate smoking rooms, extending a smoking ban that forbade smoking in public places and restaurants. The majority of bars comply with the smoking ban, but in some places, the owner (usually a smoker himself) will still allow his clients to smoke. From 2014 (at the latest) the law will be tightened even more.

TippingTipping is not obligatory, but if you think the service was fine, a tip is always appreciated by the staff. Tips vary from 20 cents to €5, or a rounding up of the bill.

ToiletsOn the occasion of World Toilet Day on 19 November, the city of Ghent highlighted its inner-city public toilet facilities. It issued a ‚WC map’ in Dutch and English which is available free of charge from the Tourism Office or the Ghent city shop. A great souvenir, the map currently only shows public toilet facilities in the inner city where the ring road and the railway stations of Gent Sint-Pieters and Gent Dampoort demarcate the border. Within this area, all public toilets, toilets for the disabled, toilets with nappy changing facilities and urinals are shown on the map.Ladies (Dames) or Gents (Heren) is written on ll toilet doors. When you have to go badly, note that it’s not generally accepted simply to barge into a café or restaurant: staff will appreciate if you ask in advance. If you see a saucer by the toilets, then you’re expected to donate a small amount of money for toilet maintenance; 20 or 50 cents is fine.

WaterAny of the European countries that are part of the Euro-pean Union have very similar, strict standards to drinking water regulations. You can rest assured that it’s safe to be drinking water from the tap here, with some experts even saying it’s better to drink tap water then to drink bottled water, since the tap variety is filtered of chalk and other minerals.

BasiCs


11history14th centuryDuring the 100 years war between England and France, Edward III forbade all exports of English wool to Flanders and to Ghent. After all Flanders was, albeit reluctantly, part of the French crown. As a result, the cloth halls were empty and about 60 per cent of the population of Ghent was un-employed. After two years of famine and riots, the people of Ghent were starving and desperate. It was at this point that Jacob Van Artevelde, presumably a textile businessman, negotiated with the English king and the ‘weak’ Count of Flanders (who had fled for France when rioting broke out). His strategy was to convince both of them to give Ghent, from an economic point of view, neutral status. After all, nobody gained from a starving, rebellious city, which had nothing to produce and nothing to lose. Van Artevelde succeeded in his mission and wool once again became the source of Ghent’s well-being. Van Artevelde became a hero in Ghent and even today the city is known as the Artevelde city.

15th centuryGhent became part of the Burgundian empire and attracted the rich and famous looking for luxurious textiles, garments and art. Philip the Good, Duke of Burgundy, supported several Flemish artists (the so-called Flemish Primitives, such as Jan Van Eyck) and played an important role in establishing Flanders as an important and trendsetting European arts centre. It was in this time that the brothers Van Eyck painted their world famous polyptych, the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb (1432). Politically the dukes tried to centralize power and taken the regions, a policy against which the citizens of Ghent often rebelled. Nevertheless, the dukes of Burgundy often enjoyed their holidays at the Prinsenhof in Ghent, a wonderful palace located at on of the canals. They had it build as an alternative to the dark and humid Castle of the Counts. The Prinsenhof was a lusthof, filled with music and dance, gardens and ponds and even a zoo with lions. Un-fortunately, little now remains of what was once one of the most spectacular palaces in Europe. The area it occupied is still called Prinsenhof, however.

16th centuryOn February 24th of the year 1500, Charles the V was born at Prinsenhof and later baptized in the St. Baaf’s Cathedral. Born out of a marriage of Joanna of Castile and Philip the Fair, Duke of Burgundy, he would become an emperor unlike few the world had seen. Reigning over what is nowadays the Netherlands, Belgium, a part of France, Germany, Austria, Spain, a part of Italy and all the colonies of Spain in South America made him the ruler of an empire on which ’the sun never sets.’ Although Charles V spent most of his time abroad battling against his lifelong enemy Francois I of France, he liked to return once every few years to his home town of Ghent. His home was of course Prinsenhof. 1540: A crucial date for Ghent. After being away for three years, Charles V is called back urgently to Ghent by his sister and governess, Mary of Hungary, who is facing opposition to the taxes being imposed on the citizens of Ghent. The city, tired of paying for Charles’ wars, refuses to pay. The atmosphere is tense and riots are frequent. Charles returns to Ghent together with an arms of 10,000 soldiers and punishes his hometown. Symbollically, on February 24th, his 40th birthday, Charles ordered the most influential and rebellious citizens to walk in procession to the Prinsenhof, bare foot, dressed only in a simple white shirt, with a black and white noose around their neck. They were then forced to publicly ask him forgiveness.

7th centuryAmandus (who would eventually be proclaimed a saint after a long life of hardship and persecution trying to evangelize the pagans of northern Europe) founded two abbeys: one at Lys (the Ganda Abbey) and one upstream at Scheldt (the St. Piet-ers Abbey). One of his followers, Bavo, a rich nobleman who gave all his possessions away to live as a hermit in Ganda, was such an inspiration for so many people in the area that the abbey of Ganda was later named after him, becoming the St Baaf’s Abbey we know today. Politically, Ghent was as this stage part of the Germanic empire.

9th - 10th centuryAfter surviving two Viking excursions, Lys and Scheldt - both boasting harbours - grew around the nucleus of the St. Baaf’s and St. Pieter’s Abbeys and became increasingly strong, powerful and rich settlements; by the end of the 10th century they were part of the French empire.

12th - 13th centuryEnglish wool and French grain were imported via the harbours at Lys and Scheldt. They became the pillars of what turned out to be a very thriving textile and grain business in medieval Ghent. Throughout the Middle Ages Ghent had a population of about 65,000 making it larger than London, Cologne or Antwerp. Moreover Ghent was, after Paris, the biggest and wealthiest city north of the Alps. During this time the Count of Flanders, in fact a representative of the French king, had his wooden castle enlarged, fortified and transformed into an expensive stone edifice, the Castle of the Counts we know it today. He had it build not so much to defend the city against foreign invaders but to impress and keep an eye on the rich, powerful and - most of all - headstrong and rebel-lious citizens of Ghent.

Why are the citizens of Ghent called the noose-bearers? To answer this question, we go back to 1540. Then the people of Ghent revolted against Charles V, the ruler of the Holy Roman Empire, who imposed on them yet another war tax. As the citizens refused to pay, the emperor decided to personally set things right in his hometown. He demanded all aldermen, deans and burghers of the lower working classes make a public show of contrition. Fifty of the burghers thus had to wear a noose round their neck, as if ready the gallows. In the eyes of outsiders, all residents of Ghent shared the fate of the burghers and were thenceforth nicknamed the noose-bearers. The people of Ghent were not amused with the name and imposed strict sanctions on people caught using it. Nowadays, however, the prople of Ghent are proud to be called noose-bearers or ‘stropkes’. The noose is a symbol of the town’s resistance against every form of tyranny and misplaced authority. During official ceremo-nies or the Gentse Feesten, you will come across people wearing a noose around their neck. At the Bachtenwalle, there’s a 1.80m statue of a noose-bearer. A little detail: he’s looking proudly in the direction of the gate of the Prince’s Court, where the emperor was born. Another (not so little) detail, is the ‘masculinity’ of the statue. They say it only illustrates that there was a strong wind on the evening of the confession...

Noose-bearers


12 history Culture & events

The name Gent comes from the word Ganda, an old Celtic word which means ‘confluence’. The Celts used Ganda to indicate their settlement at the confluence of the two rivers in Ghent, the Lys (Leie) and the Scheldt (Schelde). Under Roman occupation (1st-4th century) the name Ganda survived, changing in the Middle Ages, when it gradually became Gand, Ghendt, Ghent and finally Gent.

What’s in a name?Unwilling to take anymore risks, Charles commissioned the building of a new fortress in Ghent in which numerous Spanish soldiers would be stationed to make sure that the citizens of Ghent wouldn’t be in a position to rebel anymore. These events gave the people of Ghent the unfortunate nickname of Stroppendragers (noose wearers). However, the nickname soon became a badge of honour, a symbol of rebelliousness, freedom and of a proud Ghent identity. Besides the political turmoil, Reformation and Counter-Reformation colored 16th century Ghent. Traditionally a catholic region, the people of Ghent were very critical towards an increasingly decadent catholic church and many converted to Protestantism, risking life and limb by doing so. Charles V - and especially his son Philip II of Spain - burned many of the reformers, and their books, at the stake. It was at this stage that St Jan’s Church became St Baaf’s Cathedral and a bishop was inaugurated. Finally, the international textile business shifted from refined wool towards less expensive fabrics such as linen, velvet and flax. These economic changes together with growing competition hit Ghent hard.

17th centuryThe 17th century was a time of economic decline for Gh-ent. The power of the guilds was broken and on top of that Ghent lost its privileges in the grain business. Due to the inquisition and the Counter-Reformation, a lot of citizens fled to the Netherlands as a result of which the population of Ghent declined to 30.000 inhabitants at the beginning of the 17th century.

18th centuryGhent became part of the Holy Roman Empire, led by Maria Theresia and her son, Emperor Jozef II. Under the Austrians canals were dug, widened and deepened in order to facilitate bigger ships coming into the harbours of Ghent. Times were starting to look better again, especially at the end of the century when Lieven Bauwens smuggled a semi-automatic spinning machine out of England and brought it to Ghent. It marked the start of what would be a thriving 19th century. At the end of the 18th century Ghent once again became a part of France, only to be handed to the Netherlands after the battle of Waterloo.

19th centuryWillem I and the citizens of Ghent found common interest and connected quite well. Willem founded Ghent University (1817), had the Ghent-Terneuzen canal dug as well as a new harbour (1827) built in the north of the city, thanks to which Ghent became an important seaport. Ghent transformed itsel f into the most important cotton city in continental Europe in the 19th century, im-porting cotton from the US, India and many other places. Over 1500 factories were built within the city walls and the population exploded: from 55,000 at the beginning of the 19th century to 160.000 at the end of the century. Working conditions however were harsh and Ghent was once again rebelling: this time fighting for better working conditions. Most of modern Belgium’s trade unions were founded in those days, in Ghent. 1830: Belgium became an independent state. The city council - together with the wealthy textile class - opposed the new state. They called themselves Orangists, wanting to remain part of the Netherlands.

20th century1911: Maurice Maeterlinck receives the Nobel Prize for Literature 1913: Ghent hosts the World Exhibition, for which many of the city’s finest buildings were renovated. 1914-

1918: Although the First (and Second) World War hit Ghent hard, it was able to save a large part of its architectural heritage. Many unemployed people were employed during the war to enlarge Ghent harbour. 1934: A panel of the priceless altar piece The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb is stolen: it has never been found. 1938: Corneille Heymans receivers the Nobel Prize for Medicine. Fifties & Sixties: After the Second World War, the port of Ghent developed into a modern industrial area, a centre of the car and steel industries. The port of Ghent becomes the third most important in Belgium, attracting businesses from all over the world. The textile industry however further declines. 1968: Ghent’s Festivals are revived, and today more than 1.5 million visitors take part in what - at 10 days and 10 nights - is one of the biggest festivals in Europe. 1969: A canal (the Ringvaart) is dug in order to connect the Lys and the Scheldt and numerous other canals, allowing ships to reach the new port in the north of Ghent without going through the city centre. Since then the former medieval harbours at Lys and Scheldt - no longer useful - have become popular hangouts for Ghent’s hippest inhabitants. 1977: Ghent unifies all its districts and surroundings into one big city. 1999: The Belfry, the Cloth Hall and the beguinages are proclaimed Unesco World Heritage sites.

21st century2009: Ghent is appointed as Unesco Creative City of Music 2012: About 240,000 people currently live in Ghent, as well as about 70,000 students. Ghent University is blossoming, as result of which Ghent has become a strong research and development centre. Contemporary Ghent is a vibrant mix of all kinds of people living in a stunning historical setting. It is no wonder that both National Geographic and Lonely Planet have declared Ghent as one of 10 must-see places in the world.

Lichtfestival, lightens up your winter © Visit-Gent

history


13Culture & events

Friday, Saturday & Sunday morningsFlea market around St. Jakobschurch (C-2)

Friday morningFarmers‘ market at Groentenmarkt (B-2)

Sunday morningFlower market at Kouter (B-3)

Sunday morningMarket around St. Michielschurch (B-2)

Sunday morningBook market at Ajuinlei (B-3) (if it’s sunny)

Date Event Venue

July

1 July – 31 August Parkkaffeemore info&updates @parkkaffee.be

Parkkaffee

11 – 14 Gent Jazz Festival more info&updates @gentjazz.com BIJ

20 – 29 Gentse Feesten more info&updates @gentsefeesten.be City centre

31 July – 29 September

DOK beachmore info&updates @dokgent.be DOK

August

9 – 11 Patersholfeestenmore info&updates @patershol.be Patershol

Every Thursday DOK open air cinema DOK

Every Sunday DOK flea market DOK

September8 Open Monumentsday Different locations

14 – 20 OdeGand Ghent, Gent Festival of Flandersmore info&updates @gentfestival.be Different locations

21 De Beloften, music festivalmore info&updates @democrazy.be

October

8 – 19 Film Festival Gent more info&updates @filmfestival.be Kinepolis, Sphinx, Studio Skoop

17 Scoring for Scorsese more info&updates @filmfestival.be BIJ

19 World Soundtrack Awards more info&updates @filmfestival.be Kuipke Gent

December

13, 14 Glimps Festival music festivalmore info&updates @glimpsgent.be different locations

Markets, Festivals & Events

Ballet & OperaVlaamse Opera B-3, Schouwburgstraat 3, tel. (+32) 926 81 011, fax (+32) 922 38 726, [email protected], www.vlaamseopera.be. The build-ing we know as the Flanders Opera was opened in 1840. City architect Louis Roelandt buil t the opera, together with the court house and the La Concorde ballroom, creating a unique architectural effect in the Kouter square neighbourhood. The three banquet halls are 90 meters in length, while the auditorium seats 1002 people and has an impressive three-metre diameter chandelier. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Next to working hours, the box office opens 1 hour before each performance. JAUL Want to go for a picknick on the river? © Visit-Gent


14 Culture & events Culture & events

CinemaKinepolis C-5, Ter Platen 12, tel. (+32) 926 50 600, fax (+32) 926 50 606, [email protected], www.kinepolis.com. Kinepolis is the biggest cinema in Ghent and the place for commercial and 3D movies. The cinema is located not far from Sint-Pieters square. During the Film Festival Gent , most movies are shown here. Q Weekdays, weekends and holidays from 13:00, Christmas holiday from 10:00. TAULGSphinx Cinema B-2, Sint-Michielshelling 3, tel. (+32) 922 56 086, fax (+32) 923 35 253, [email protected], www.sphinx-cinema.be. Sphinx is another art-house cinema, showing European and non-Western movies. The building, located near the Korenmarkt, was built in 1912 and has always been used as a cinema. It has five screens on three floors, which means lots of stairs. Sphinx cinema has a nice bar and terrace, where you can enjoy a pre- or post-movie drink. JStudio Skoop C-3, Sint-Annaplein 63, tel. (+32) 922 50 845, fax (+32) 923 37 522, [email protected], www.studioskoop.be. A small art-house cinema, close to the Zuid site, that shows quality non-commercial films on five screens. Studio Skoop has been around for 40 years and even though the seats were recently renewed, the cinema still gives off an old, but cosy, atmosphere. After the movie, don’t leave without having a drink at the Studio Skoop Café where old cinema seats, retro movie posters and portraits of Scarlett Johansson and Marlene Dietrich make you feel part of it all. Q Ticket office opens 30 minutes before each movie. TJL

Classical musicDe Bijloke C-4, Jozef Kluyskensstraat 2, tel. (+32) 923 36 878, fax (+32) 922 56 582, [email protected], wwww.debijloke.be. De Bijloke Music Centre is located 10

minutes’ walk from the city centre. In its four concert halls, De Bijloke puts on classic music from ancient to symphonic, from classical western to eastern music and even some jazz. The music centre forms part of the De Bijloke world heritage site and combines historical and contemporary architecture with greenery. Until a quarter of a century ago, the main activity of the site was to take care of the sick. The concert hall of the music centre for example is a gigantic medieval hospital that dates back to the 13th century. Look out for the spectacular oak ceiling. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00 & 13:00-17:00, Sat 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. The day of the concert the ticket office opens one hour before the concert. AUEKW

Concert hallsFlanders Expo Maaltekouter 1, tel. (+32) 924 19 211, fax (+32) 924 19 325, [email protected], www.flandersexpo.be. Just 10 km from Ghent you will find Flanders Expo, which organizes large-scale exhibitions, parties and concerts. Bruce Springsteen, Prince, Sting, Tina Turner and U2 are some of the artists that have performed here. Q AULEHandelsbeurs B-3, Kouter 29, tel. (+32) 926 59 165, fax (+32) 923 35 576, [email protected], www.handelsbeurs.be. Both established artists and new music revelations play at Handelsbeurs. The concert house of-fers world music, jazz, blues and pop rock, but also has a strong program of classical music. QOpen 10:00 - 12:30 & 13:30-17:30, Sat 10:00 - 12:30 & 13:00-16:30. Closed Sun. JAULE

GalleriesFortlaan 17 B-6, Fortlaan 17, tel. (+32) 922 20 033, [email protected], www.fortlaan17.com. Gallery Fortlaan 17 is two floors of contemporary art. Facing the Citadelpark it exhibits contemporary artists from home and abroad, young artists and Belgian talents. Fortlaan 17 is lo-cated in one of the few Art Nouveau houses in Ghent. QOpen 14:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.Gallery Tatjana Pieters Nieuwevaart 124, tel. (+ 32) 932 44 529, [email protected]. Gallery Tatjana Pieters introduces and supports Belgian talent as well as promoting international artists. Tatjana Pieters her way of thinking is: show local, act global, and her gallery is located in an old warehouse in the industrial area of Ghent. With a unique exhibition space of 400 m², this gallery is a must. QOpen 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. ALZebrastraat C-5, Zebrastraat 32, tel. (+32) 471 31 00 01, www.zebrastraat.be/. Zebrastraat brings together housing, culture and economy. Next to five congress rooms and 70 residences, you can find ta 750m² exhibition that displays the work of artists who combine contemporary art with technology. Zebrastraat is located just outside the city centre, but occasionally hides a gem that makes it worth a visit. On the roof of the Zebrastraat site, there are two glossy, yellow constructions, each 12 metre long, 6 metres wide and 3 metres high. Don’t forget to look up when you are in the area! QOpen 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. GB

Live MusicCafé De Loge A-3, Annonciadenstraat 5, tel. (+32) 922 53 438, www.deloge.be. This congenial bar puts on a free concert every Wednesday evening with many singer songwriters passing through. Every fourth Tuesday of the month, Café De Loge gives an open stage to a handful of beginner songwriters. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. JAB

www.filmfestival.be

O8 ›19 OCT 2O13

13-289_inyou_60bx90h.indd 1 6/06/13 11:26

Culture & events


15Culture & events

Date Event VenueTo 18 August Koen Theys – Home-made victories SMTo 25 August 2013 Evgenia Arbugaeve SPATo 15 September 2013 En avant, marche HVATo 29 September Onder Stroom MIATTo 31 December 2013 1001 Dots: exhibition for children KT1 May - 1 December 2013 100 years Vooruit STAM22 May – 6 October 2013 Fondation Francès – In alle staten GUI22 May – 6 October 2013 Gideon Kiefer – Drawings GUI

11 July-25 AugustPrivate collection selected by #1 / Collection vqc by Anneke Eussen

GTP

19 July – 27 October 2013 Peter de Greef, illustrator of sheet music DES11 October- 26 January 2014 Expo Martin Scorsese CK15 September-20 October Bart De Clercq GTP27 October – 21 December Heide Hinrichs GTP27 October – 21 December Allison Hrabluik GTP1 November– 29 June 2014 War and Trauma GUI8 December 2013 – 12 January 2014

Im-/Ex-Plicit / Concept by Luc Derycke & Tatjana Pieters GTP

To 01 July 2017 artworks MSKTo 31 December 2017 The Ghent Alterpiece CK

Exhibitions

Café Video C-2, Oude Beestenmarkt 7, [email protected], www.cafevideo.be. Café Video is a popular bar with live music from up-and-coming bands during the week and live DJ’s on Fridays and Saturdays. All concerts are free and start at 21:30. QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Open on Sunday when there is a concert planned. JEGBCharlatan C-2, Vlasmarkt 6, tel. (+32) 922 42 457, [email protected], charlatan.be. Charlatan has a live band or DJ more or less daily. Music genres vary from rock, rhythm & blues and soul to indie, pop and punk. Everything find its way to Char-latan: as long as it’s cool. Charlatan’s motto: Lean back and relax or get up and dance. Concerts start at 22:00, unless otherwise stated. QOpen 19:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon. JEGBClub Reserva B-2, Jan Breydelstraat 32, tel. (+32) 489 11 63 95, [email protected], www.clubreserva.be. Every Thursday a fine concert takes place here, either in the afternoon or in the evening. Club Reserva mainly offers jazz, but now and then you can come here to listen to a classical violin-ist, some country, blues, rock and roll or folk. Brand new is the ‚mastel’ stand outside this bar, where you can buy this typical speciality from Ghent. A mastel is a round bread, similar to a sandwich roll, spiced with cinnamon with a hole in the middle. Younes Benzaza opened Mastelle&Co, and he will serve you savoury and sweet variations of this typical bun with a big smile! QOpen , Thu 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 03:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. JEDOK D-1, Koopvaardijlaan, tel. (+32) 922 41 940, www.dokgent.be. Port area Dok provides a space for small scale rock and pop concerts. Many of these concerts are organized by Democrazy, an event organizer with an eye for everything that’s hot and new. Concerts can take place at the DOKcanteen (free) or at the DOKarena, an amphi-theatre made of earth and grass. When it’s raining those concerts move to the DOKbox. Dok also installs a beach every summer, where you can enjoy movies, concerts or even flea markets on this city beach. Very child- and dogfriendly. T6UILENGBKXWHot Club de Gand B-2, Schuddevisstraatje - Groente-markt 15b, tel. (+32) 486 74 07 99, [email protected], www.hotclubdegand.be. This music venue offers a wide range of music: mainly jazz but there’s also room for

flamenco, folk, classical music, blues, chanson, musette, ethnic music and gypsy music. Live music more or less every day. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00. JEGBXHotsy Totsy A-2, Hoogstraat 1, tel. (+32) 922 42 012, [email protected], www.hotsytotsy.be. At Hotsy Totsy, known for its poetry and music in a 1920/30s inspired-interior, the music ranges from jazz, swing and 20s-30s tunes to blues and French chansons. From October until May, an artist hits the stage on Thursday and every third Wednesday of the month. During the Gentse Feesten, this pub keeps going on a diet of French chansons and rockabilly. JEKinky Star C-2, Vlasmarkt 9, tel. (+32) 933 57 342, [email protected], www.kinkystar.com. For 15 years, music center Kinky Star has been an independent record label, a radio show and a club with two weekly concerts. Kinky Star does not limit itself to one specific style and plays Flemish hiphop, electro and heaps of rock: indierock, garagerock, bluesrock, noiserock, surfrock, stonerrock... You get the idea. All concerts start at 21:30, sharp. DJ sets at 22:00. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Tue, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Wed. JEGWLa Resistenza C-3, Brabantdam 82, tel. (+32) 925 60 967, [email protected], www.la-resistenza.com. In its cellar, music venue La Resistenza hosts jazz concerts with expansions to funk, soul and other genres. Every Friday and Saturday, DJ Cellar Sessions at 21:45. QOpen 11:45 - 05:00, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Wed, Sun. JEBKWMinor Swing C-1, Ottogracht 58, tel. (+32) 494 90 64 83. At this tiny bar, there’s only room for up to 30 people but there is always room for some swing. Every first and third Tuesday of the month, they play live swing and jazz. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. JENGBTrefpunt C-2, Bij Sint-Jacobs 18, tel. (+32) 922 53 676, fax (+32) 923 31 037, [email protected], www.trefpunt.be. Every Monday evening, a soloist, a small band or a theatre company play here. During the weekend, things get louder at their concert hall. As with many venues in Ghent, it’s hard to lump the music of this place together: it goes from jazz and folk to blues and world music. During the Gentse Feesten, the Trefpuntfestival stages more than 160 concerts at nine loca-tions. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00, Fri 16:00 - 03:00. JEG



Date Time Event Venue

July

21 15:00 Pascal Amoyel&Mickaël Lipari-Mayer SBA

22 15:00 Severin von Eckardstein & Simone Easthorpe SBA

24 15:00 Ekaterina Levental, Eva Tebbe & Anouk Sturtewagen SBA

25 15:00 Olalla Alemán & Jan van Outryve SBA

September

18 20:15 Openingsconcert: Sara Mingardo (alt) & Stefano Gibellato (klavecimbel, piano) HB

28 20:00 Le Poème Harmonique : Te Deum! BIJ

October

3 20:00 deFilharmonie BIJ

4 20:15 Daniil Trifonov (piano) HB

5 20:00 Symfonieorkest Vlaanderen : Feesten tot der dood BIJ

10 20:00 Severin von Eckardstein (piano) BIJ

11 20:15 Isabelle van Keulen (violinl) & Ulrike Payer (piano) HB

17 20:00 Auryn Quartett MZ

17,20,23,2615:00, 18:00

Tristan & Isolde DVO

20 11:00 Tom Van der Schueren(piano) HB

21 20:15 Patricia Kopachinskaja (violin) & Markus Hinterhauser (piano) HB

25 20:00 Spectra: birthday concert BIJ

26 20:15 Ictus HB

November

13 20:15 Fauré Quartett (pianoquartet) HB

17 15:00 L'orchestre des Champs-Elysées : Requiem Fauré BIJ

20,22,23,24,2615:00, 20:00

Tosca DVO

22 20:00 Symfonieorkest Vlaanderen BIJ

21 20:15 Tae-Hyung Kim (piano) HB

28 20:15 Antje Weithaas (violin), Tanja Tetzlaff (cello) & Alexander Lonquich (piano) HB

30 20:00 Cuarteto Casals MZ

December

7 20:15 Daan Vandewalle (piano) & Keiko Shichijo (klavecimbel) HB

20 20:00 De Filharmonie BIJ

January

11 20:00 Symfonieorkest Vlaanderen BIJ

9,11,14,17,1915:00, 20:00

Der Rosenkavalier DVO

15 20:15 Isabelle Faust (violin) & Alexander Melnikov (piano) HB

19 15:00 Belgische Kamerfilharmonie BIJ

Classical & Opera

White Cat B-1, Drongenhof 40, tel. (+32) 496 18 91 89, [email protected], www.whitecat.be. White Cat is a seventies bar with James Bond interiors and lots of live jam sessions and DJ’s giving you hip hop, soul, funk, rock ‚n roll and disco. It’s also the place to go and score a good drink, and even to try out your dancing shoes... QOpen , Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 21:00 - .... Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. JEG

Theatre & MusicArts centre Vooruit C-4, Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 23, tel. (+32) 926 72 820, fax (+32) 926 72 838, [email protected], www.vooruit.be. At Vooruit Arts Centre, located in an art-deco monument built in 1913, the historic decor reconciles with the theatre, dance, literature, new media

Culture & events


17Culture & events

and music on offer. In the indoor café all ages mingle to have something to eat, drink, work or read the newspaper. Now and then upcoming musicians play free gigs at the café. Come here during the Gentse Feesten, for a special treat of 10 days of techno, house and electro. And yes, attentive read-ers may have noticed that we have a birthday to celebrate: Vooruit exists exactly 100 years! Between the 1st of May and the 1st of December, there will be a lot of extra activities, putting ‘100’ in the picture. Check the website regularly! And let’s drink a Triomfbeer to that ( a beer brewn especially for this occassion, don’t you just love the Belgians?) QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. JAUEGKWbij’De Vieze Gasten Haspelstraat 31, tel. (+32) 923 70 407, [email protected], www.deviezegasten.org. ‚De Vieze Gasten’ is a socio-cultural platform located at the heart of the Brugse Poort, a multicultural area on the outskirts of Ghent. Music, theatre, cabaret, stand up comedy shows, circusacts, all of this and many more activities are to be enjoyed here.Campo C-2, Nieuwpoort 31-35, tel. (+32) 922 30 000, [email protected], www.campo.nu. Art centre CAMPO cre-ates and hosts small and big productions from home and abroad. Plays take place at three different sites: Victoria (Fratersplein 7), Nieuwpoort (Nieuwpoort 31-35) and Boma (Bomastraat 36). JCapitole C-4, Graaf Van Vlaanderenplein 5, tel. (+32) 923 30 388, fax (+32) 922 58 896, [email protected], www.musichall.be. Capitole was once one of the most beautiful cinemas in the country, but in the 1980s it was closed, and then stood empty for fourteen years. In October 2001, the totally renovated art deco theater opened again with the musical Camelot. Now Capitole still is a venue for musicals, but also hosts international dance, Dutch comedy and music from past and present. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. PTJALEGWIntercultural centre De Centrale Kraankinderstraat 2, tel. (+32) 926 59 828, fax (+32) 926 59 824, [email protected], www.decentrale.be. Intercultural centre De Centrale supports culture from all over the world. Beside theatre and music classes, this venue focuses on world music with cultural diversity as its starting point. E

When visiting Ghent, you might be tempted to dance instead of walk down the streets, as the city simply oozes music. It comes as no surprise then, that in June of 2009, UNESCO appointed Ghent that year’s ‘City of Music’. The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization judged Ghent the winning city based on a list of criteria including its centres of musical creation and activity, its musical festivals and events, the promotion of the music industry, its music schools etc.

In fact, long before the UNESCO nod, Ghent had been considered a well-established centre for music with a rich tradition. For one, the city boasts an impressive number of concert halls: Concert Hall De Bijloke (classical music), Capitole (musicals), Flanders Expo (concert & event hall), Kuipke (concert and event hall), Handelsbeurs (world music, jazz, singer-songwriters etc.), Kunstencentrum Vooruit (major travelling (international) productions), De Vlaamse Opera (opera house), Intercultural Centre ‘de Centrale (world music) to name but a few.

Furthermore, local and international young artists are enabled and encouraged to develop their interest and career in music thanks to education facilities such as Gh-ent’s School of Arts, and research centres. Besides this, different organizations, including the Federation of Music Festivals in Flanders (FMiV) and the European Festivals Association (EFA) back the city’s musical ambitions.

The proof of Ghent’s musical efforts is in the pudding. Simply glancing over the city’s rich pop and rock scene, with over 600 pop and rock bands, proves they pay off: artists such as Soulwax, Sioen, 2Many DJ’s, An Pierlé, Arid, Das Pop, and Gabriel Rios call the city their musical home. Important musical promoters based in Ghent are Democrazy and Kinky Star. Spectra, Logos and collegium vocale are just a few examples of Ghent’s flourishing classical and contemporary music scene. Ghent also contributes to the world of musical theatre. LOD, for instance, is an important production and development centre for (contemporary) music. Finally, Ghent’s opera house stages many national and international produc-tions, and in former movie theatre, the Capitole, musicals are produced and presented.

Ghent supports many musical genres through a variety of festivals. The Festival of Flanders (14-28/9/2013) in the heart of the city is a wonderful example of Ghent’s cel-ebration of music. The International Film Festival Ghent (8-19/2013) has a special emphasis on film music and organises film music concerts during which composers such as Ennio Morricone, Howard Shore, Hans Zimmer, and Maurice Jarre have taken the stage. Since 2001, the Film Festival Gent has also been organising the World Soundtrack Awards, the most prestigious soundtrack awards in the world. Jazz in Ghent is alive and kicking too. Ghent’s many jazz cafés and clubs and its annual July Ghent Jazz festival attest to that. The ‘Gentse Feesten’ or ‘Ghent (City) Festivities’, is a yearly tradition: every July the city is alive with concerts, parties etc for ten days. There are also numerous smaller festivals throughout the year, catering to everyone, from jazz lovers to clas-sical music buffs.

So if you’ve got the music in you, Ghent is the place to be!

Ghent, UNESCO City of Music

Check out this graffiti @Lammerstraat, photo by Anke Sanders



Kopergietery C-1, Blekerijstraat 50, tel. (+32) 926 61 144, fax (+32) 922 42 980, [email protected], www.dekopergietery.be. The Kopergietery used to be a copper foundry (kopergieterij) and now serves as a theatre focusing on children and adolescents. National and international youth theater companies play here. QOpen , Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. TMinard Theater C-4, Walpoortstraat 15, tel. (+32) 926 58 830, fax (+32) 923 33 011, [email protected], www.minard.be. On the steps of this theatre is a statue of Romain

Date Time Event Venue

July

20 – 29Gentse Feestenmore info&updates @gentsefeesten.be

City centre

August

13 19:30 Nosedrip presents: Julia Holter, Lynn Cassiers DOK

27 19:30 Sam Amidon DOK

September

12 20:00Ensemble Modern&Synergy Vocals Three Tales

BIJ

15 19:30 The Revival Hour DOK

25 20:00 Trio Stelios Petrekis BIJ

26 20:15

Marjan van Rompay Group / Sonic Boom: Uri Caine & Han Bennink (double bill)

HB

October

3 20:15 De Beren Gieren / Too Noisy Fish (Double Bill) HB

10 20:15 AMATORSKI 'Deleting Borders' HB

15 20:00 Joshua Redman Quartet BIJ

24 20:15 Vijaj Iyer Trio HB

26 19:30 Vive la Fête VO

28 19:30 Spinvis NTG

November

5 20:15 Lionel Beuvens quartet / Splashgirl HB

21 20:00 Kellylee Evans BIJ

December

3 20:15 Henri Texier Hope Quartet HB

5 20:00 Imani Winds BIJ

14 20:00 Flat Earth Society BIJ

17 19:30 Daan NTG

18 20.15 Marockin' Brass feat. Byron Wallen HB

January

22 20.15 Joachim Badenhorst + OakTree Trio (double bill) HB

29 20.00 Antiduo & Chambertones BIJ

Rock, Folk, Jazz & More

Venue Code

De Bijloke BIJ

Capitole Gent CA

Café Video CF

Caermersklooster CK

Campo Boma CMB

Campo Nieuwpoort CMN

Campo Victoria CMV

City Centre CC

Design museum DES

De Kouter DK

DOK DOK

De Vlaamse Opera DVO

Flanders Expo FE

Festivalterrein Krijzeltand FK

Film Plateau FP

Galerij Tatjana Pieters GTP

Museum dr. Guislain GUI

Handelsbeurs HB

Huis van Alijn HVA

Kinepolis KI

Kouter KO

De wereld van Kina: de Tuin KT

Logos Tetrahedron LT

Museum voor Industriële Archeologie en Textiel MIAT

Museum of Fine Arts MSK

Miryzaal MZ

NTGent NTG

St-Baafsabdij SBA

Stadsmuseum Gent STAM

SMAK SM

Sphinx SP

Sint-Pietersabdij SPA

Studio Skoop ST

De Tinnen Pot TP

VIP School VIP

Vooruit VO

Venues

www.inyourpocket.com

Culture & events


19Culture & events

Deconinck, an icon of Flemish folk theatre who used Minard as the base for his theatre company. This is the reason why every July and December, Minard revives folk theater with performances in the Ghent dialect. JNTGent C-3, Sint-Baafsplein 17, tel. (+32) 922 50 101, fax (+32) 926 93 543, [email protected], www.ntgent.be. Civic theater NTGent, founded in 1965, lies within the triangle of the cathedral, the Belfort and the city hall. A theatre with its own company that also hosts international players, the classical auditorium has room for 650 spectators. There are two other venues, too: Arca

People from Ghent simply itching to get away from the busy city centre during the sunny summer months can take a mini-holiday at the Parkkaffee: the grounds of a private castle in Mariakerke, a district of Ghent. This year, owner Marco ‘Kazzen’ Cassiman (55), is opening the doors to his castle’s beautiful grounds for the thirteenth time. Cassiman used to be a musician, but decided to buy the castle at a surprisingly low price back in 1992. “Everyone thought I was crazy,” he recalls, “and maybe they were right. What can I say? I had fallen head over heels… It was a complete leap in the dark, but some-times you have to show some guts.” Thirteen years later, the many Parkkaffee fans can testify how Cassiman’s audacity paid off. Parkkaffee has become a unique outdoor cafe with antique caravans and tents surrounding a pond, in the middle of a spacious park. This fairytale spot is open to couples looking for some romance, families in search of a carefree afternoon of fun, and groups of city-dwelling

friends who just want to hang out in a lush garden. In the afternoons, Parkkaffee is a great place for kids: they can enjoy the park, play in the sandpit, swing from the vines in the trees and take part in theatre and circus workshops. There is even a magic school, where magicians just might teach you some of their best card tricks. At night, you can huddle around the campfires dotted around the lawns while enjoying excellent food and some of the best cocktails in town. A variety of bands provide the perfect soundtrack to your summer. Curious? Parkkaffee is open to all every day in July and August, from 14:00 to midnight. And while you’re there, you can find out how quickly you will be back by consulting one of the mysterious fortune tellers. Groenestaakstraat 37, 9030 Mariakerke, tel. (+32) 922 79 994, [email protected] from July 1 to August 31, 14:00-24:00. Entrance fee: €5. For details of this year’s activities, go to www.parkkaffee.be.

Parkkaffee

and Minnemeers. Arca is located behind the Castle of the Counts, while Minnemeers is situated next to the Museum of Industrial Archaeology and Textiles (MIAT). JALUitbureau Veldstraat 82 B, www.uitbureau.be. In Gh-ent’s main shopping street, you will also find this ‘uitbureau’ where you can ask for information about theatre plays, performances, musicals, guided city walks, etc and you can even buy tickets here. So don’t forget to pay them a visit if you want to dive into Ghent’s cultural life. There is so much to discover! QOpen 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun.


20 where to stay where to stay

P Air conditioning 6 Animal friendly

O Casino A Credit cards accepted

T Child friendly J City centre location

H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant M Nearest metro station

D Sauna C Swimming pool

W Wi-Fi connection

Symbol keyCream of the cropGhent Marriott Hotel B-2, Korenlei 10, tel. (+32) 923 39 393, fax (+32) 923 39 394, [email protected], www.marriottghent.be. Perfection doesn’t come cheap, and the only downside of this luxury hotel is the price tag. However, the quality of the Ghent Marriott is of mind-blowing proportions. It is a wonderfully designed building in a location that can’t be beaten: overlooking the Korenlei on the banks of the Lys, just a short walk from just about everywhere you will want to go. It goes without saying that the rooms are probably the best in the city. There are good on site drinking and dining options too. Worth saving up for. Q 150 rooms (doubles from €149 to 219). PZTJHARUFL�GBKW hhhh

Sandton Grand Hotel Reylof A-2, Hoogstraat 36, tel. (+32) 923 54 070, fax (+32) 923 54 079, [email protected], www.sandton.eu. Hotel Reylof - in a building from the 18th century - is within walking distance from the centre of Ghent and a recommendable spot for those who like to be spoilt. The large rooms in this wonderful building are equipped with the right things, the beds are huge, the breakfast extensive and the staff very attentive. The hotel has a cocktail bar and a historical garden courtyard that is great during sunny months. Those who’d like to work on their health can do so in the wellness centre with a fitness equip-ment and a solarium. Q 158 rooms (doubles from €125 to 238, suites from €179 to 1250, apartments from €169 to 209). THAFLGBKDXW hhhh

UpmarketHotel Harmony B-2, Kraanlei 37, tel. (+32) 932 42 680, fax (+32) 932 42 688, [email protected], www.hotel-harmony.be. Hotel Harmony offers excellent accommodation in the heart of the oldest neighbourhood in Ghent. Those who want a taste of the real medieval atmosphere and, at the same time, want to be taken care of, have to book a room here. The prices are a bit high, but the price/quality ratio here is very good. Even the smallest rooms have large beds, wireless internet and some of them even have a terrace. Those who’ve booked a suite can count on designer baths, fruit baskets and a fireplace. The staff in this hotel, a family business, will do absolutely anything to make you feel at ease. And if you’ve had enough of strolling through Ghent and need a rest, you can always sit in the private garden of the hotel with a plate of tapas and a good glass of wine. Highly recommended. Q25 rooms (doubles from €139 to 229). PZTHAR6ULGBCW hhhh

NH Gent Belfort B-2, Hoogpoort 63, tel. (+32) 923 33 331, fax (+32) 923 31 102, [email protected], www.nh-hotels.com. On the corner of Hoogpoort and Belfortstraat stands the proud building of NH Ghent Belfort. Thanks to both the police station and the city hall opposite, you can feel safe in your room and perhaps even spot a wedding going on from your window. The interior of the hotel, as well as the rooms, are colourfully designed, thereby creating a genuinely warm atmosphere. Rooms are comfortable and well up to those of a four-star hotel. The breakfast buffet is very good and the basement dining hall is lovely. Q174 rooms (doubles €99 - 165, suites €169). PTJHA6UFLGBKDXW hhhh

NH Gent Sint Pieters A-5, Koning Albertlaan 121, tel. (+32) 922 26 065, fax (+32) 922 01 605, [email protected], www.nh-hotels.com. Although this hotel is about a twenty minutes walk from the Kuip van

Gent, it’s an excellent base for city trips as well as business trips. The rooms are tidy and clean, the beds are comfort-able and you can’t really be complaining about the extensive breakfast buffet. A fine hotel. Q49 rooms (doubles €86 - 125, suites €125). PZTHA6LGW hhhh

Novotel Gent Centrum B-2, Goudenleeuwplein 5, tel. (+32) 922 42 230, fax (+32) 922 43 295, [email protected], www.novotel.com. The Novotel offers efficient service, spacious and clean rooms and an outdoor swimming pool, a sauna and a gym. If you are looking for a comfortable stay and bright interior design then this really might be the place for you. The location next to St-Baafsplein is great, you have a splendid view. Q 117 rooms (doubles from €99 to 189). PTJA6UFLBKDCW hhh

Parkhotel D-3, Nieuwebosstraat 1, tel. (+32) 922 39 147, fax (+32) 922 39 107, [email protected], www.parkhotelgent.be. The Parkhotel has recently been renovated completely and it shows: the tastefully decorated rooms, like the rest of the hotel, are impeccable. The staff clearly shares its fresh mood: upon entrance, everyone will answer you in a friendly, open way, and there’s a nice ex-change of tips on what to do in Ghent. You’ll even get a little map, so finding the historical centre of Ghent is easy - plus it’s only a ten minutes’ walk from the hotel. The rooms are clean and the breakfast is fine, though a bit on the pricey side. The on-site restaurant La Provence offers you a good look at the Belgian and French cuisine - the service of the staff don’t get better. In the summer months, breakfast is served in the courtyard. Q 20 rooms (doubles €74-109). JALGBKW hhh

Boutique hotelsCharme Hancelot Hotel D-4, Vijfwindgatenstraat 19, tel. (+32) 923 43 545, fax (+32) 923 35 545, [email protected], www.hancelot.be. This renovated Town House, built in 1840, is a hotel full of character. In this stylish and authentic mansion you could almost imagine you belong to 19th century nobility. The breakfast room could serve as a ballroom, and all the guest rooms come with antique furniture. Spread over three floors, there are different kinds of accomodation. The most basic ‘charm room’ is equipped with a sitting area, flat-screen TV, free wireless internet and a bathroom with shower, sink and toilet. Others include a bath with separate massage shower or a two-person bath and a shower. For all guests, there’s free access to the fit-ness room. At extra cost, you can make use of the private sauna or wellness facilities. A hidden pearl in the centre of Ghent. Q12 rooms (doubles €119 - 179). JHAI�FLGBDW

where to stay


21where to stay

Mid-rangeBest Western Hotel Chamade A-6, Koningin Elisa-bethlaan 3, tel. (+32) 922 01 515, fax (+32) 922 19 766, [email protected], www.chamade.be. A standard three-star hotel, ideal for those who like to stay close to the railway station. The centre of the city is, however, also easily accessible: the tram that stops just outside the hotel, takes you in 10 minutes to the historical centre. The hotel has a limited underground parking (€12) but the public parking at the station is a good alternative. Each room has a private bathroom with hairdryer, a color TV, telephone, minibar and high speed internet. There are both smoking and non smoking rooms that were redecorated not so long ago. The breakfast buffet they serve on the sixth floor provides not only an extensive choice but also a panoramic view of the city. Q (singles €114 - 132, doubles €130 - 149, triples €1575). PTA6LW hhh

Best Western Residence Hotel Cour St Georges C-2, Botermarkt 2, tel. (+32) 922 42 424, fax (+32) 922 42 640, [email protected], www.courstgeorges.be. Smack in the centre of town is the oldest hotel in Europe. Well, at least that is how they call themselves. When we viewed the rooms of this18th century building, we actually became quite convinced that this claim might be true, be-cause some rooms could use a bit of renovation. Facilities are modern though, staff are very helpful and the location is hard to beat. On the downside, the breakfast is really not the best and overall we would conclude that the Hotel Cour Saint-Georges doesn’t provide enough value for money. Q31 rooms (doubles €117 - 139). TJA6LGW hhh

Carlton A-6, Koningin Astridlaan 138, tel. (+32) 922 28 836, fax (+32) 922 04 992, [email protected], www.carlton-gent.be. Three brothers took over this hotel and now manage it with style. At the Carlton you’ll find 21 nicely decorated rooms with a private bathroom, digital TV with two movie channels, a coffee/tea set, a spacious desk, minibar and even a lounge with couches and mood lighting. The brothers give the hotel a personal touch to make your stay as pleasant as possible. The hotel is 200 meters away from Sint-Pietersstation. The centre is easily accessible by tram or bus. Q21 rooms (singles from €84 to 120, doubles from €101.50 to 175, triples from €122.50 to 175) TA6LGW hhh

Europahotel A-5, Gordunakaai 59, tel. (+32) 922 26 071, fax (+32) 922 00 609, [email protected], www.europahotel-gent.be. You’re at the right place for a quiet hotel half way between the city centre and the railway station. This family hotel is located on the banks of the Lys and is an ideal base for cycling and walking, and with the bike route maps cyclists get when they check in, they can immediately hop on their bikes. The modern single and double rooms are equipped with shower, bath and toilet but apparently the wireless internet doesn’t reach all the rooms. The hotel also has a gastronomic bistro with lunch at €15 and a menu with a large choice of fish, meat and vegetarian dishes. Q37 rooms (singles €110, doubles from €114 to 129). THA6LGBKW hhh

Ghent River Hotel B-2, Waaistraat 5, tel. (+32) 926 61 010, fax (+32) 926 61 015, [email protected], www.ghent-river-hotel.be. Just north of Vrijdagsmarkt lies a former industrial building that has been turned into a large hotel along the Lys River. The 77 rooms are generally good value and, unlike many other accommodation options in Ghent, the hotel’s facilities include a fitness room, a sauna and quite a nice bar. Not all the rooms are of the same value though and some of them can be a bit noisy. The breakfast, which is not included in the price, is pretty expensive for what you get. Q80 rooms (doubles €102 - 150). TJHAFBD hhhh

Holiday Inn Gent Expo Maaltekouter 3, tel. (+32) 922 02 424, fax (+32) 922 26 622, www.higentexpo.com. If you have business in or around Flanders Expo or need to be next the motorway, then Holiday Inn is a good choice. In all other situations, we would say there are much better options in town. The hotel is efficiently designed, but lacks a bit of atmosphere. Rooms are quite noisy and the fact that there is a motorway just 100 metres from your room doesn’t particularly help. Apart from that, there is nothing wrong with the Holiday Inn, but it is not hard to find a place that offers higher quality for the same price. Q169 rooms (singles €72 - 99, doubles €105 - 149). PTHAR6UFL�GKW hhhh

Hotel Adoma B-6, Sint Denijslaan 19, tel. (+32) 922 26 550, fax (+32) 924 50 937, [email protected], www.hotel-adoma.be. This hotel, near the Citadelpark, and only minutes away from Sint-Pieters station, might look a bit miserable from the outside - it reminded us of an East Berlin bunker - but inside you’ll be provided with everything you need: you can even park your car here for free. The hotel is a fine spot for a weekend in Ghent, and the prices of the room are reasonable. We’ve seldom seen such an extensive breakfast for the price. Moreover, the great beds and the attentive staff will make you stay an extra night. Q 15 rooms (doubles €70, triples €94, suites €97). TALW hhh

Hotel Astoria Gent B-6, Achilles Musschestraat 39, tel. (+32) 922 28 413, fax (+32) 922 04 787, [email protected], www.astoria.be. Whenever you visit a foreign city, the hotel is usually the first place to look for information. At the Astoria, located in the Kunstenkwartier, the staff will do everything they can to inform you about their city. Full of pride, they’ll tell you about the nicest streets and the most special places. The same kind of care is evident in the hotel itself, too. There are kingsize beds and luxurious bathrooms with Jacuzzis (if you’re in luck). In the mornings, a breakfast buffet is ready for you - the only thing missing here being freshly squeezed juice. The prices are quite cheap for the quality you get, however, and the hotel offers free parking, too. Q25 rooms (doubles €89 - 135, suites €114 - 145). HA6LGBW hhhHuis van Alijn, photo by Anke Sanders


22 where to stay where to stay

Hotel de Flandre A-2, Poel 1-2, tel. (+32) 926 60 600, fax (+32) 926 60 609, [email protected], www.hoteldeflandre.be. A lot of time and attention went into the appearance and atmosphere of this hotel near the Korenlei. The standard rooms might be standard when it comes to facilities, but the beds are truly lovely. The suites in this hotel have been equipped with all sorts of luxurious features such as a Jacuzzi and fireplace. Although the hotel is situated on a noisy street, and, at night, a stray drunk from Ghent (or tourist) might stumble past your window, inside, it’s like an oasis of peace. In the mornings, an extensive and very good breakfast awaits you, and if you’re really lazy, or just hung-over from all the triple beers, just have breakfast in bed. Q 46 rooms (prices from €97-214). TJALGBW hhhh

Hotel Gravensteen B-2, Jan Breydelstraat 35, tel. (+32) 922 51 150, fax (+32) 922 51 850, [email protected], www.gravensteen.be. As the name suggests, this hotel lies right by the castle of Gravensteen, and if you’re in luck, you’ll get a view of the medieval building from your room. When it comes to the number of nearby hotspots, this hotel scores high points: the Design Museum is on the same street, and the centre of Ghent is within walking distance. Although the rooms are provided with all sorts of extras like free wireless and a bath, the rooms are quite cramped. Parking, unfortunately, isn’t free - you’ll have to buy a parking card - and breakfast could’ve been a bit more substantial. This hotel could use a makeover and the price - quality ratio isn’t optimal, but the location makes up for a lot. Q49 rooms (singles €129 - 139, doubles €116 - 139). TJHA6U�FLGBDW hhh

Ibis St. Baafs Kathedraal C-3, Limburgstraat 2, tel. (+32) 929 39 000, fax (+32) 923 31 000, [email protected], www.accorhotels.com. A tall corner building next to St Bavo’s Church houses the Ibis hotel. Rooms are comfort-able and modern, and those with a view over the church are particularly nice. From the breakfast room, you can see trams passing through the square and see the morning activity at one of Ghent’s central squares. A word of warning for those travelling by car: navigating through Ghent’s historical centre to find the Ibis car park us not easy! Q120 rooms (doubles €75 - 82). PTJA6ULGKW hh

Monasterium PoortAckere A-3, Oude Houtlei 56, tel. (+32) 926 92 210, fax (+32) 926 92 230, [email protected], www.monasterium.be. A former mon-astery turned into a hotel. I t is in a beautiful location and at every corner of the gorgeous building you can feel how its former residents used to live. So while the hotel has kept the old charm of the monastery, this is unfortunately visible in the rooms as well. Most rooms desperately need renovation and simply don’t meet the expectations of a twenty-first century guest. The cheaper rooms in the nunnery wing even present a truly Spartan experience. Due to a general lack of comfort and frequent complaints about rooms being dirty, a stay at the Monasterium is not worth its price. I t really is a shame, because the building is indeed very special and the location could hardly be better. Q20 rooms (doubles €46 - 175). JHAUL�GBKXW h

BudgetCampanile Hotel Gent Akkerhage 1, tel. (+32) 922 00 222, fax (+32) 922 19 908, [email protected], www.campanile-gand.be. In this Campanile Hotel, you will find basic rooms with a somewhat outdated décor. There are some free extras, however, such as wifi and a kettle, coffee/tea set and biscuits. With its location just off the motorway and its free parking, the hotel is very convenient when you’re passing though by car. The hotel is close to an industrial complex and there is not so much to see in the neighbourhood. Fortunately the Campanile has a bar for drinks, a terrace and a hotel restaurant that serves good fresh, seasonal food with friendly service. Breakfast is not included. Q51 rooms (doubles from €80 to 103). HA6ULGBKW hhh

Holiday Inn Express Gent Akkerhage 2, tel. (+32) 922 25 885, fax (+32) 922 01 222, [email protected], www.hiexpress.com. This is the kind of hotel you only sleep at when you’re on the road. Holiday Inn Express is a typical chain hotel without much charm but is very clean. The rooms are spacious and equipped with telephone, TV, free WiFi, a desk and bathroom with shower, toilet and hairdryer. The staff are friendly and will help you if you need anything. Too bad that they charge for parking as you can only really come here by car. Q120 rooms (doubles €59 - 75). PZTHA6ULGBKXW hhh

Hotel Onderbergen B-3, Onderbergen 69, tel. (+32) 922 36 200, [email protected], www.hote-londerbergen.be. Irish hospitality is the creed of this nice hotel. Below the hotel, there’s an Irish pub and the English-speaking staff will do anything to advise you about the best Belgian beer spots in Ghent. The atmosphere among the staff and guests is relaxed - it’s like a backpackers hostel, but without the backpackers. The standard rooms aren’t huge, but very cosy - especially the rooms in which the woodwork of the old roof is still visible. In the thoroughly renovated building, there’s no lift, so at night, you’ll have to climb the endless stairs, tough after a whole day of ex-ploring downtown Ghent. Q 24 rooms (doubles €85-120). TALGBKW

Ibis Gent Centrum Opera B-4, Nederkouter 24-26, tel. (+32) 929 39 001, fax (+32) 922 35 907, [email protected], www.ibishotel.com. This Ibis is what we expect from it: fine budget accommodation in the centre of the city. Standard rooms with internet, television, bathroom and free parking below the hotel – big plusses. At walking distance from the main sights.Q134 rooms (doubles €62 - 72). PTJA6ULGW hh

Summer to enjoy! © Visit-Gent

where to stay


23where to stay

Bed & BreakfastB&B Brooderie B-2, Jan Breydelstraat 8, tel. (+32) 922 50 263, [email protected], www.brooderie.be. Right next to the best oasis in Ghent, the Applebrugparkje, you’ll find this little bed and breakfast. There are three rooms on the first and second floor of this historical building. The smallest - thus the cheapest - room is our favourite, with its view over the Lei and the ancient buildings of the inner city. The other two rooms are a lot more colourful, larger and more comfortably furnished. The only complaint about this place is that you have to share a shower and toilet with other guests. On the ground floor, a complete breakfast is served. Q 3 rooms. Prices from €50 to €75. JAGKW

B&B De Waterzooi B-2, Sint-Veerleplein 2, tel. (+32) 933 07 721, [email protected], www.dewaterzooi.be. When you wake up in the morning and you open the window from one of the three suites of this B&B, you will have a gor-geous view over the Castle of the Counts. From the moment you step out of bed you will see that every aspect of this B&B is perfection. The building itself dates from 1713 and looks very elegant, the luxurious suites are brilliantly decorated and the hosts are incredibly hospitable. We have tried very hard to spot some downsides or imperfections, but we just couldn’t find any. QSuites priced from €170 - 215. PJALGBXW

B&B Engelen aan de Waterkant C-6, Ter Platen 30, tel. (+32) 476 40 25 23, [email protected], www.engelenaandewaterkant.be. ‘Angels along the waterfront’ is what the name of this small and quiet B&B means. The angels are located along the Scheldt on the southern side of Ghent’s city centre and, as the name subtly suggests, this is quite a romantic place. The two large rooms are charmingly furnished, with all the necessary amenities. Perhaps the only thing missing is a shower in the bathroom, yet on the other hand the bathtub does add to the romantic ambiance. Breakfast is served in the room and, due to the hostess’ exceptional cooking skills, is remarkably nice. Q Singles €120, doubles €140. ALGW

B&B Simon Says B-1, Sluizeken 8, tel. (+32) 923 30 343, [email protected], www.simon-says.be. Next to the Patershol neighbourhood lies one of the best B&Bs in Ghent. The two rooms are spotlessly neat, breakfast is one of the best you could imagine and the staff are helpful and friendly. The B&B is housed in a colourful building above Si-mon’s coffee shop, which offers one of the best cups of coffee in town. So Simon not only says things, he also provides a fantastic and welcoming accommodation option. Q Double room €105. TJAGBKW

Guesthouse PPP A-2, Poel 9, tel. (+32) 933 46 377, [email protected], www.ppp-gent.be. Taking your shoes off before entering - a house rule - kind of reminds visitors that this is a guesthouse and not a hotel. A friendly and cosy little place, the rooms offer the comfort and privacy of a luxurious hotel and, combined with the homely atmosphere, are worth every penny. Each of the five rooms has a differ-ent style, all with an elaborate design. Rooms are spacious, clean and just superbly furnished. The ‘modern room’ is noteworthy for having an attached bedroom for children. Perhaps the only downside is the absence of a lift, which could be troublesome for people who have difficulties climbing stairs. Q5 rooms (doubles €100 - 130, suites €110 - 130). PZTJHAILGBW

Nebula B&B C-2, Kwaadham 52, tel. (+32) 484 15 53 28, [email protected], www.nebula-gent.be. This nice b&b right at the heart of the city has lots to offer : all

main buildings at walking distance, a nice gallery underneath and a jewelry shop to keep him and her happy, a nice foyer where you can enjoy a great breakfast, coffee and cake and small snacks. The rooms are decorated in a very stylish way, and they are definitely worth the money. Q €65 - 120. TJABKW

SnoozInn C-1, Ham 89, tel. (+32) 496 24 14 26, [email protected]. Walking in this part of town, where tourists don’t dwell that often, makes you realise what a nice city Ghent is to live in. Booking a room in this lovely b&b is a must for the epicurists amongst us. Great beds, a delicious breakfast with splendid homemade jam. What a perfect way to start a day. Q from €85 to 95. TJAW

HostelsJeugdherberg De Draecke B-2, Sint-Widostraat 11, tel. (+32) 923 37 050, [email protected], www.jeugdherber-gen.be/gent. This neat HI hostel is nicely located around the corner of the Castle of the Counts. The hostel has about 100 beds spread over 21 small dorms of which the largest ones have six beds. There are also six double rooms on offer and every room has an en suite bathroom. You can expect all the usual hostel facilities, the usual hostel atmosphere and a hearty breakfast is included in the price. Staff members are friendly and they will join their guest every now and then at the hostel’s bar. On the downside, you should bring your own towels, breakfast lasts only until 09:30 and if you are not an HI-member you will have to pay a €3 surcharge. Q Doubles €23 - 25, dormitory €19 - 21. TJHAGKW

Apartment rentalAparthotel Castelnou D-3, Kasteellaan 51, tel. (+32) 923 50 411, fax (+32) 923 50 404, [email protected], www.castelnou.be. This accommodation option, located in a quiet area southeast of the city centre, could be described as something between hotel and apartment rental. Castelnou offers spacious and clean apartments, but with the facilities and personal touch of a hotel. The recently renovated rooms are fully furnished and equipped with all the accessories you might have deliberately for-gotten to bring from home. This includes a small kitchen, but in case you are not in the mood for cooking, the Dali restaurant offers a convenient alternative. Q48 rooms (singles from €79.50 to112.50, doubles from €96.50 to 129.50)PTHALGBKW hhh

MidiSud C-6, Bellevuestraat 30, tel. (+32) 477 28 90 60, [email protected], www.midisud.be. Here, you can rent a large apartment for the same price as a cheap hotel, provided with many extras, like a large bathroom, a big living room, Wi-Fi and a nice kitchen with everything you need. How-ever, the apartment is cleaned only once a week. But if you plan on staying a bit longer in Ghent and want to prepare your own meals, this is a fine place. The biggest disadvantage, however, is the distance to the centre - it’s about 45 minutes on foot - but you can park for free here, and by car you are only about 10 minutes from the city centre. Q3 rooms (3 Total rooms ). TJLNGBW

Onderbergen 37 B-3, Onderbergen 37, tel. (+32) 475 27 09 10, [email protected], www.onderbergen37.com. The fact that the owner, who lives next door, is an interior designer explains the stylishness of the rooms. The building consists of four floors, each with a bedroom decorated in a different style. It’s all gorgeous, the kitchens are well equipped and your friendly host is usually around to answer any questions. TJ


24 restaurants restaurants

P Air conditioning 6 Animal friendly

Z Anti-allergy O Casino

J City centre location T Child friendly

A Credit cards accepted U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking R Internet

E Live music M Nearest station

G Non-smoking areas S Take away

Symbol keyIt is not an overstatement to suggest that Ghent is home to some truly fantastic eateries. We have eaten at them all, and have come up with a selection that includes not only the very best, but also the quirkiest, the best value and - in some cases - the downright bizarre.Local dishes? Steak tartare is one, as - of course - is a big cone of Belgian fries.

ArgentineanArgenvino B-2, Donkersteeg 25, tel. (+32) 927 91 792, [email protected], www.argenvino.net. What if the summer isn’t as sunny as we have expected, or what if autumn is sunnier than we’ve expected? One solution: tapas y vino in this nice Argentinean bar. They serve excellent wine and fine tapas, the churrasco al plato and choripan being our favourites. The only downside is that the lightning could have been warmer, no one really fancies white lamps above the table... but a couple of vinos will even make you forget about that. QOpen 18:00 - 23:30, Sat 12:30 - 15:30. (€15-25). JAGK

BelgianBelga Queen B-2, Graslei 10, tel. (+32) 928 00 100, fax (+32) 923 52 595, [email protected], www.belgaqueen.be. This 13th-century Romanesque house has been converted into a very good restaurant that’s all about Belgian food and drinks. On one of two floors you can choose to sit at high bistro tables (not so comfortable), communal tables or large leather armchairs (far too comfortable). Bon vivants can finish their meal in the Cigar Lounge Bar to enjoy a cigar Belgian Congo-style. Carefully prepared and exceptionally tasty food, but bear in mind that you pay for the excellent service and the top location. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (€21 - 35). PJHA6UB�KXS

Brasserie Ha’ B-3, Kouter 29, tel. (+32) 926 59 181, [email protected], www.brasserieha.be. Even with a magnifying glass, it’s hard to find any flaws in Brasserie Ha, the indoor restaurant of the Handelsbeurs concert hall. Every detail here seems to have been given thought, without it ever becoming clinical or soulless. The menu might be small, but it offers more than enough French/Belgian delicacies, all of which have been given a special touch by the chef. The pretty female waitresses, elegantly set tables, an interior that will make interior designers jealous, and high quality products make every visit to this brasserie feel like a small feast. You’re in the right place for cocktails, too. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00-22:00. (€20 - 24). JALGK

De Stokerij A-1, Tichelrei 2 A, tel. (+32) 927 99 585, www.destokerij-gent.be. Multatuli is already one of our favourite places, and the brother brain behind this njummie restaurant recently opened a new restaurant, following the same recipe for success: good food, friendly staff, a beautiful interior (in an old distillery, which has been completely renovated) and to spoil us even more, they serve their own-brew beer - Staminée (both here and at Multatuli). Best to enjoy their steak tartaar and a nice beer on the terrace. A must. QOpen 16:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. (€9-17). TJABK

De Tempelier B-2, Meerseniersstraat 9, tel. (+32) 923 30 305, www.brasseriedetempelier.be. Cozy bistro in a car-free alley close to the Vrijdagsmarkt. De Tempelier used to be a bar, and the couple that runs this place have kept much of the original interior, which looks like it came from a church. Indeed, all Frederik and Ingeborg did was add a long, red leather sofa and some wooden bistro tables. The choice at De Tempelier is very limited but Frederik - who cooks - makes good, honest meals with quality products. If the ten to fifteen tables are full, you might have to wait a while until you get served. QOpen 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (€8 - 15). PJNBK

Keizershof B-2, Vrijdagmarkt 47, tel. (+32) 922 34 446, www.keizershof.net. Couples over candlelight, families with three generations, boisterous groups of friends - Brasserie Keizershof is popular enough to be all things to all people, and with good reason. Situated on the busy Vrijdagmarkt it boasts a meandering three floors (the top offering the best views of the square), a lush outdoor terrace and a simple menu of reliable dishes like spaghetti Bolognese and hefty stews. A reasonably priced wine list and a staff that seems happy to let guests linger whether they’ve committed to cocktails or full meals complements the experience. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (€15 - 20). JA6UGBK

restaurants


25restaurants

Korenhuis B-2, Korenlei 10, tel. (+32) 926 97 744, [email protected], www.korenhuis.be. In the heart of Ghent, you won’t find many restaurants with a prettier view and a better menu than at Korenlei, part of the worldwide Marriott chain of hotels. However, the attentive staff won’t serve you standardized food in this stylish setting. Instead, the experienced chef draws inspiration for his own dishes from traditional Belgian cuisine, but gives them a modern twist. Many dishes are in fact little artworks that you can enjoy to the last bite without feeling guilty. Four intimate rooms are available for dinner, although the two with a view over the Leie River are the best. Those who can’t get a place there need not complain: in the other two rooms you get a view of the kitchen and a culinary artist at work. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 18:30-22:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00. (€26 - 32). TAULBK

Lepelblad B-3, Onderbergen 40, tel. (+32) 932 40 244, [email protected], www.lepelblad.be. Honest and fresh food is what you’ll find at Lepelblad, Dutch for the common herb scurvygrass. The restaurant serves tasty salads with spicy shrimps or a veggie burger, but also does daily specials and many pasta and stew dishes. Even though the numerous wooden tables are close to each other, it is not a bad idea to make a reservation because this place is - especially at noon - packed with shopping or working people looking for some no-nonsense food. QOpen 11:30 - 20:30. Closed Mon, Sun. (€13 - 16). TJA6GBK

Martino C-3, Vlaanderenstraat 125, tel. (+32) 922 50 104, www.martinogent.be. Martino is a Ghent staple, serving burgers, omelettes and steak. Our personal favor-ite is the cheeseburger served with tomato-onion sauce, fries and a salad. Have your meal at the counter or at a table together with the diverse clientele. Couples ready to go to the theatre, young students and party people of all ages come here as Martino serves till early in the morning. It’s always busy so make a reservation and don’t be late because manager Pascaline runs this place with a firm hand. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue. (€12 - 20). PJUNGBKS

Patyntje Gordunakaai 91, tel. (+32) 922 23 273, [email protected], www.patyntje.be. This restaurant is not in the city centre, but nothing so lovely as to discover a city by bike, and one of these paths might lead you to Patyntje, a restaurant overlooking the river Lys. On the menu a fine selection of meat and fish, to everyone’s liking. We would recommend their steak tartare, one of the best we have had in Ghent, served with delicious fries and mayonnaise. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30, 18:30-22:00, Sun 12:00 - 14:30, 18:00-22:00. (€19-28). TAGBK

ChileanEl Negocito C-3, Brabantdam 121, tel. (+31) 495 27 44 94, [email protected], www.mi-negocio.net/elnegocito. If you unsuspectingly enter this Chilean restaurant, don’t be startled. A door that jams, crumbling walls that need some paint, and an arrangement of furniture that’s a far cry from perfect. But the real surprise is that a visit to this unknown South American eatery is an outright delight - if only for the traditional Malta con Huevo (beer with egg) that you have to try at least once in your life. Genuine hospitality, a very reasonably priced menu, and the relaxed ambience make up for everything the decor lacks. The list of more than fifty different kinds of rum will also please lovers of alcohol. Every Monday evening, there’s live music. It’s a great place. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. (€6 - 11). JGKX

De Dulle Friet C-2, Vlasmarkt 1, tel. (+32) 475 38 29 23, [email protected], www.dullefriet.be. In an area where Ghent’s nightlife is at its best, unfortunately Belgian chips are not. In fact, after sev-eral repeated visits in the last year, we can only say that this chippie is not all it should be. Not only are you confronted with the smell of burnt chip fat, but hygiene also leaves a lot to be desired. The only positive thing we have to say about this enormous place is that the staff were not at fault. And the mussels in vinegar were good. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Thu 11:00 - 03:00, Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€2 - 6). JLNBKS

De Frietketel A-3, Papegaaiestraat 89. I f Mi-chelin’s culinary experts are ever going to hand out stars for the best chippie in Europe, De Frietketel is bound to come up trumps. Even vegetarians praise this business which can afford to be closed large parts of the day, like a proper restaurant. Ever since 1980 you’ve been able to come here for the usual deep fried snacks (fried in palm oil), but this trendy place also sells all kinds of vegetables pressed into a burger. More often than not there are long queues stretch-ing outside. Specialities of the house are the cheese croquettes and the homemade vegan tartare sauce, which is the closest to deserving the label heavenly of the 20 (!) available sauces. Flush this down with one of the biological soft drinks. QOpen 11:00 - 14:00 & 17:00-23:00. (€2 - 5). LNKS

Belgian Fries



CubanLa Casa del Cubano C-3, Brabantdam 123, [email protected], www.lacasadelcubanogent.be. Years ago a wonderful fusion of a Colombian chef and a cigar smoking Italian led to La Cuba del Cubano. Although the food that’s served here is very much traditionally Italian, the name re-fers to the back of this tiny restaurant. The name plate over the entrance, Havana Room, makes it very clear that the best known Cuban export is central here. From the subtle Montecristo’s to classy bricks from Havana, all upmarket cigar brands are for sale. As long as the chain smoking owner hasn’t smoked them all himself.... QOpen 11:00 - 15:00 & 18:00-02:00. (€8 - 13). LNGBKS

FrenchBrasserie Pakhuis B-3, Schuurkenstraat 4, tel. (+32) 922 35 555, fax (+32) 922 57 105, [email protected], www.pakhuis.be. Just for the impressive interior alone, Pakhuis is worth a visit. As its name suggests, this place was once a warehouse, but is now a lively brasserie with more than a hint of chic. Pakhuis serves authentic brasserie cuisine with Belgian classics like steak tartare - the meat coming from the restaurant’s own farm. The house specialties also include oysters (14 kinds!) and seafood. For a small bite, the bar serves shrimp croquettes or salads, with or without a solid jenever, whisky or cocktail. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€30 - 40). PA6UBK

De 3 Biggetjes B-2, Zeugsteeg 7, tel. (+32) 922 44 648, www.de3biggetjes.com. At this classy restaurant hidden in the Patershol, you can expect carefully prepared meals at a reasonable price. The three course menu (€34) gives you a choice of meat and fish and always includes seasonal products. Chef Ly Chi Cuong worked at a couple of Belgium’s top restaurants and now serves classic Belgian-French cuisine. Not a typical Flemish lad you can expect a hint of his Vietnamese roots on your plate. QOpen 12:00 - 14:00 & 19:00-21:00, Sat 19:00 - 21:00. Closed Wed, Sun. €34. JAGBK

Domestica B-3, Onderbergen 27, tel. (+32) 922 35 300, [email protected], www.domes-tica.be. This is one of the best spots in town to be pampered in the culinary sense. The combination of classic and modern is not just visible on the menu, but also in the style of these premises, which date from 1870. Because the restaurant consists of several rooms, you can choose the space that best suits your mood. The bar, which is five metres long, is a work of art in itself, yet we simply adore the black room with its sober golden details and the gorgeous chandelier. We can also recommend the private terrace at the back, where you can catch the last few rays of sunshine. It is possible to enjoy a Bienvenue from South-Africa for €224 or a single malt whisky from Taiwan for €22. For those of us who have slightly less spending money, the leftovers from the cellar are sold for a lot less. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Mon, Sat 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€36 - 45). PJA6UBK

Godot B-2, Hooiaard 8, tel. (+32) 932 98 208, [email protected], www.godotgent.be. Grand Café Godot is one of the most attractive places in Ghent. The white terrace will try and entice you to order a cocktail and stay outside, but make sure you also go inside and try the Westmalle stew or any other dish from the Belgian menu, in order to taste the rich culture of Ghent. Godot is typically Ghent: authentically Belgian, young and sparkling and perfect in the culinary sense. On warm days you can have a good time sipping your Cosmopolitan on the terrace outside, with its view of the Hooiaard. There are worse jobs imaginable than being a reviewer for this guide… QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (€17 - 23). TJA6ULBK

Sorelle B-3, Onderbergen 38, tel. +32 923 30 015. Maybe it is the doll’s house interior of Sorelle that attracts a mainly female crowd, or maybe it is the cappuccinos. They come with whipped cream instead of milk and are accom-panied by a piece of cake and a little glass of advocaat, a sweet drink made of eggs. The simple menu consists of steaks, croques, pancakes, pies, daily specials and sometime whatever the staff suggests. Try their chicken with ‚dragon’ sauce: it’s extremely tender. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:30. Closed Tue, Sun. (€14 - 17). JK

Steendam 66 C-2, Steendam 66, tel. (+32) 478 34 28 71, www.steendam66.be. When you go to Steendam 66, you might think you’ve landed in a Parisian bistro, even though you are in fact just a stone’s throw from St. James’ Church. In this bistro - with seating for up to 24 guests - the chef and his waiter serve you with a smile but have no time for chat. The menu includes French-Flemish dishes like fried sole, tomato with hand-peeled shrimps and hand-cut fries and the specialty of the house: grilled king crab. An address for food lovers who expect that little extra. QOpen 12:00 - 14:00 & 18:30-22:30, Sat 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (€20 - 38). JAGK

FusionA Food Affair B-3, Korte Meer 25, tel. (+32) 922 41 805, www.afoodaffair.be. Good food usually comes with a higher bill, but if that’s no problem for you and your wallet, head straight down to the trendy and stylish A Food Affair. Since 2003 the two Belgium owners have created a small paradise for fusion lovers in downtown Ghent. The best of the Asian cuisine is perfectly mingled with some of the better Belgium recipes. The result is haute cuisine with a slightly different touch. Make sure you’re not in a rush, because everything is freshly prepared. Our favorites are the Indian style beef meatballs in a curry of spicy tomato sauce, and the Japanese-style chicken. Save some space for the homemade snickerice. QOpen 18:30 - 21:30, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (€21.50-34.90). JAGK

The ultimate sacrifice: sharing Belgian fries © Ghent City Council

restaurants


27restaurants

GrillAmadeus B-2, Plotersgracht 8, tel. (+32) 922 51 385, fax (+32) 925 98 210, www.amadeusspareribrestaurant.be. In Ghent and beyond, Amadeus is known for its spare ribs à volonté (all you can eat). Amadeus opened in 1987 and ever since their recipe for success hasn’t changed: all you can eat spare ribs, side-salad and jacket potato with special herb butter (€15.95). Next to this, they have waterzooi with chicken, mixed grill, gambas, vegetarian salad… but as they state themselves, this is ‘a place for ribs’. At Amadeus, tourists, students and people from Ghent in small or big groups enjoy their meal in authentic surroundings with art deco mirror walls in the main room and a charming book collection in the other. On each table, a red checkered tablecloth is standard. Wine is charged by the centimetre (really) and in summertime you can eat in the inner courtyard, complete with greenery and pond. QOpen 18:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 23:30. Also at Gouden Leeuwplein 7 & Bagattenstraat 199. (€10 - 16). JAGBK

‚t Gents Fonduehuisje B-2, Jan Breydelstraat 30, tel. (+32) 923 43 405, [email protected], www.gentsfonduehuisje.be. This was the first place in Ghent to put fondue on the menu. Surrounded by a lot of wood, sitting on your wicker chair you can enjoy an old-fashioned, you’ve guessed it, fondue. Fondue Bourguignonne, fish fondue, Swiss cheese fondue, mixed fondue, and... chocolate fondue as dessert. The wine list is a bonus, as ‘t Fonduehuisje has selected a number of wines which go very well with the fondue. Although many people might find the decor somewhat corny, it actually suits this wonderfully homely way of eating perfectly. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Wed. (€23-28). ABKX

InternationalCafe Rene B-3, Gebroeders Vandeveldestraat 2-4, tel. (+32 ) 922 32 700, [email protected], http://cafe-rene.tumblr.com/. One of Café Rene’s biggest crowd pullers is the terrace which covers two sides of this stylish business. On Sunday mornings you almost have to fight for a chair, when the road’s closed to motorised traffic to facilitate the weekly book market. Once inside you can enjoy local products which the chef lovingly prepares in his half open kitchen. On your way to the toilets you can watch this professional at work or enjoy the smells of his cookery. If you’re still suffering from your Ghent ad-ventures the night before, try a large glass of freshly squeezed Lemon squash, guaranteed to give you enough energy to run a half marathon. Surprisingly enough the top item on the menu is the not very common combination of raw egg yolk on equally raw steak tartare. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. (€15 - 17). TJAULGBKXW

De Graslei B-2, Graslei 7, tel. (+32) 922 55 147, [email protected], www.restaurantdegraslei.be. Absolutely one of Ghent’s better restaurants: you will leave this place feeling as though you have had your money’s worth, and you will probably want to come back. The food looks fantastic, and it’s all served by smiling, friendly and attentive young staff. Spread over two floors of a gor-geous old Ghent house (with a terrace when the weather allows) the setting - on the canal - is terrific, and overall it is a treat to dine here. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€22 - 28). TA6UBK

J.e.F. B-1, Langesteenstraat 10, tel. (+32) 933 68 058, [email protected], www.j-e-f.be. In this stark and ultra trendy eatery one of the better chefs in Ghent produces his small masterpieces, which obviously go down well with most guests, considering how many songs of praise we’ve heard. Jef (a name combining those of the two owners Jason En Famke) doesn’t just do lunch or dinner, but you can also come here on Friday nights for ‚J.E.F. eat late’ and be served five small dishes for €20. They are considerably healthier than the usual kebab or fried snack you might have at that late hour. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 01:00, Sat 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (€25 - 30). JAK

Korenlei Twee B-2, Korenlei 2, tel. (+32) 922 40 073, [email protected], www.korenleitwee.be. Admittedly this may be one of the most popular places in town for tour-ists, but the surroundings of the Graslei, Korenlei and the Sint-Michielsbrug is unique. Korenlei Twee’s cherry on the cake is that you can have lunch or dinner here with a view of the ‘Kuip van Gent’. Obviously this restaurant comes with a price tag, but it’s worth every cent. The place in town to go for lobster, steak tartare or fine wine. The restaurant has been dressed to perfection and is larger than it seems from the outside. The advantage of this restaurant, its location, also carries a negative point: it sometimes takes a long time to get a table. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (€28 - 42). PJAUBKX

Mondada C-4, Woodrow Wilsonplein 4, tel. (+32) 922 57 525, fax (+32) 922 57 325, [email protected], www.mon-dada.be. The last months we’ve been testing almost every food joint in Ghent as a mystery guest. This fact justifies our conclusion that no other eatery in Ghent has a menu as extensive as the modernly decorated Mondada. Notoriously indecisive people had better look for another place - there are that many choices - or they could go and look for inspiration at the large display bins with dozens of ingredients. It’s been a long time since we found a place in a mall so worthy of recommendation. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (€6-16). PA6UBKXS



Multatuli C-1, Huidevetterskaai 40, tel. (+32) 922 30 711, fax (+32) 922 32 311, [email protected], www.eetkaffee-multatuli.be. The name Multatuli won’t ring a bell with many foreigners, but as early as 1867 this socially aware Dutchman questioned atrocities being carried out in Indonesia, and the Fair Trade brand was a direct result of his campaign. A pub with the same name and the same objectives can be found in a former director’s residence in Ghent. The stylish premises, beautiful courtyard garden and the attractive setting are definitely worth a detour. If you own a boat you can even moor it right outside. The menu may be limited in choice, but if you like meat, fish, chicken or vegetarian dishes you’re bound to find something to your taste. On the other hand, it’s a lot harder if you’re after a drink. Few places in Ghent offer such an extensive list of warm, cold and alcoholic drinks. Also check out their brand new restaurant De Stokerij. QOpen 16:00 - 22:30, Sun 17:30 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (€7-24). TJALBK

Roux A-3, Papegaaistraat 79, tel. (+32) 922 41 120, [email protected], www.roux-gent.be. One of the cool-est places in Ghent lies just outside the city centre. In 2010, Roux came up with a new concept by offering many types of wine by the glass (you could normally only order by the bottle). It was a success right from the start. The carefully chosen interior is designed to model the latest trends, but it might not be everybody’s cup of tea. Loads of luxury: brown leather chairs and golden flower vases adorn the beautifully decorated room. Besides regular coffee, you’ll find Cuban, Russian, French and even love coffee here. This all, of course, comes at a higher price, of about €7. QOpen 17:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (€25-57). AK

‚t Oud Klooster B-3, Zwartezustersstraat 5, tel. (+32) 923 37 802. Oud Klooster is therefore a non-pretentious brown pub/food joint serving portions big enough to feed even a famished reporter’s hunger. The spaghetti, lasagne and brochette are the best sellers here. As for the decor, expect statues of saints, icons and Jesus prints everywhere. And note that since many of the the treasures of this former monastery have never been found, it might be a good idea to bring your metal detector. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€6 - 11). JGBKX

Villa Bardon C-1, Sluizeken 10, tel. (+32) 933 61 713, [email protected], www.villabardon.be. Sharing and passion for food, seems to be the big themes of this restaurant that serves mediterranean dishes. The quality of the food is excellent, friendly staff, nice interior. But when you eat ravioli with crabmeat and it costs €22 it is nice to be served a bit of bread, without having to ask for it yourself... But the great chili chocolate mousse made us quite happy and forgiving. QOpen , Mon, Thu, Sat, Sun 18:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 14:00, 18:00-22:00. Closed Tue, Wed. (€15-28). JAGBK

ItalianAperto Chiuso C-1, Sleepstraat 82, tel. (+32) 923 37 264. In the middle of a neighborhood packed with Turkish shops and restaurants you might not expect to find an Italian restaurant, even less so if you pass by during the day, when all you will see is a parked Vespa and an old map of Italy. It is only at night that Aperto Chiuso reveals itself as a restau-rant, one serving authentic Italian dishes with a little twist; Vegetarians have plenty of choice here. If you’re lucky enough to come during beautiful weather, try to get hold of a table out in the garden. QOpen 18:30 - 23:00. Closed Wed. (€15 - 22). TLNBK

Eat Love B-3, Ajuinlei 10a, tel. (+32) 479 87 93 87, [email protected], www.eatlove.be. Eat Love serves no meatloaf but traditional, paper-thin pizzas with not so tra-ditional combinations. We liked the ‘half and half’ (two different pizzas in one) with one half pizza with rucola pesto, stracciata and tartar of tomato and the other half with mushrooms, truffle cream and rucola. The pizzas also come with a gluten free base or in a mini-version with grilled vegetables and salad. The trendy interior with lots of wood and black accents is rather dark, so try to come at night. Between 17:00 and 19:00 it is a real aperitivo bar, snacks being served with your drink. QOpen 11:30 - 15:00 & 18:00-23:00. (€9 - 15). JGKS

Il Mezzogiorno C-2, Baudelokaai 17, tel. (+32) 922 43 329, www.ilmezzogiorno.be. We are calling it Italian, but that’s actually selling this restaurant short. Sicily isn’t only famous for its Mafia gangs, ancient ruins and the volcano Etna, but its cuisine is one of the best in the world, too. That was the reason why the owner started this small food joint in 1997. In a cozy, homely setting, you can enjoy traditional an-tipasti and homemade pasta. Note: no prefabricated rubbish is used here, but only honest Italian products and ingredients. Even in the men’s room you’ll see the love the owners have for their products, by way of the drawings of pasta on the walls. Privacy might be hard to find in this quirky restaurant, but the food here is amongst the best in Ghent. QOpen 12:00 - 14:00 & 18:00-22:30, Sat 18:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. (€9-23). JNK

McDonald’s B-2, St. Michielshelling 1, tel. (+32) 922 32 420, fax (+32) 922 43 251, www.mcdon-alds.be. Belgium in total has 63 outlets of this American hamburger chain, Ghent has its fair share with two branches. This McDonald’s has actually put some effort into its interior design, but the food isn’t any different from its other locations. As always, burgers and fries are cheap, fast and filling.One plus: the view towards Ghent’s biggest market square is unbeatable. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Also at Martelaarslaan 17. PTJA6ULGKSW

Snack Tosi B-5, Overpoortstraat 18, tel. (+32) 934 20 369. If there were a competition for latest closing time, Snack Tosi would have a good chance of winning. Until 5am you can fill yourself with fries, doner kebabs and sandwiches at this Turkish fast food place. It is one of the few late-night eating spots in this student popu-lated area, so it can get quite lively here even long after midnight. Quite unexpectedly, the restaurant is stylishly decorated, nicely lit and has a very neat and clean ap-pearance. The kebabs are tasty and attractively served in a basket, but the meals are definitely not the cheapest in town. QOpen 11:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 05:00. (€3 - 5). GKS

Subway C-4, Lammerstraat 14, tel. (+31) 933 55 325, www.eatsubway.be. Subway is another American fast food chain that’s quickly infiltrating European cities. Albeit not as numerous or successful as McDonald’s or Burger King, it’s a pleasant step up from those two. The food menu is almost identical to that of the other 20 Belgium Subway restaurants, so if you’re craving a meatball parm or a healthy tuna sub, then take a seat in this tiny place. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at Groentenmarkt 16 (+32 933 55 128). (€3 - 5). PTJAGKSW

Quick bites

restaurants


29restaurants

Japanese & SushiIkurasushi B-1, Oudburg 7, tel. (+32) 922 37 083, [email protected], www.ikurasushi.be. The location in a popular shopping/food street is a big bonus, and this stylish restaurant is a must for hungry yuppie shoppers who can choose dishes from separate menus: sushi or general Asian food prepared by a Korean chef. Most regulars go for the combo mix, served by the friendly Nepalese staff. While the somehow dissapointing food won’t have you sending a raving text message to all your friends, Ikurasushi is still a good place to go, especially if the other sushi bar in this street is completely full and you love Asian food. Keep some space for the delicious red bean ice, which tastes much better then it sounds... QOpen 11:30 - 14:30 & 17:00-23:00. (€15 - 21). JLVKS

Ramen Noedelbar B-1, Oudburg 51, tel. (+32) 472 337236, [email protected], www.eetramen.be. Studio Simple has turned this mini-space into a very cosy noodlebar, where you can enjoy a great Ramen (a specific type of noodles) meal, alongside fish, meat or vegetarian options. The food is great - maybe a bit on the pricey side given that Ramen is street food and sold quite cheaply - and they serve the best lemonades and teas. Make sure either to be on time or have a late lunch, since the place is really small and always packed. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30. Closed Mon, Sun. (€8-14). JGK

Sushi-food C-3, Limburgstraat 36, tel. (+32) 922 52 506, fax (+32) 923 42 570, [email protected], www.sushi-food.com. Besides well-known sushi and teriyaki, this popular place has a special item on the menu: one of Japan’s favourite desserts, dorayaki. These red bean pancakes are crepe-like sweet pancakes that are popular all over Asia. You can nest yourself down in the 25 seated restaurant to eat, or take your food home and wash it down with sake. Sushi-food also sells ingredients so you can make you own sushi. Unfortunately the skills of the qualified staff is something you have to acquire yourself... QOpen 11:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. (€12 - 15). JALBKS

Sushi Palace B-1, Oudburg 37, tel. (+32) 933 60 102, [email protected], www.sushipalace.be. As far as top sushi restaurants go, you’d have a hard time finding a bet-ter place than Sushi Palace, which is located in picturesque Oudburg, in the vibrant heart of Patershol. Sit down at one of the small, intimate tables and eat as much sushi as you can stuff down your throat from the Grote Mix Combo: a half-metre long tacky wooden boat filled to the rafters with 48 kinds of sushi. The cheerful and cosy area near the large windows to the front, and upstairs, are excellent, although the romantic seats in the long alley are inviting too. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30 & 17:30-22:30, Tue 17:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon. (€9 - 15). JALGKS

SpanishHogar Español A-2, Hoogstraat 75, tel. (+32) 922 59 517. About four decades ago, many Spaniards emigrated to Ghent and its surroundings for work. Many since have returned. Those who have stayed are often seen at Hogar Español, a Spanish enclave on Belgian territory. Don’t bring your passport but do come with your most friendly mood so you will fit right into this relaxed setting. Grandma Sinda rules the kitchen and makes every meal a tribute to Iberian cuisine. Even half a Spanish omelette will feed an entire football team. The homemade sangria is another must. Feel free to order something that’s not on the menu, because this aged culinary star will cook it for you and no doubt she’ll give it her own twist. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. (€10 - 15). ZTJLNGBKXS

Student restaurantsDe Brug C-4, Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 45. Although it’s a decent life writing for this guide, every once in a while we yearn for the time when we were carefree students. Especially when you look at what dining possibilities students have in Ghent these days. There is a choice of eight student restaurants and eleven cafeterias, where students can eat very cheaply five days a week. Let’s face it, you don’t go to these places for their interior designs; even a crematory has more character. Moreover, even though there’s plenty to choose from, none of the food was amazing. Still, it’s cheap, and packed with beautiful students. QOpen 11:15 - 14:00 & 17:30-21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Check the website for all locations and opening times. KS

SurinameseFaja Lobi C-3, Vlaanderenstraat 2-4, tel. (+32) 922 35 533, [email protected], www.fajalobi.be. Suriname is one of the lesser known countries in South America. Its cusine too, which is is a fascinating mix of Asian and African influences, is very much underestimated. However, inhabitants of Ghent are lucky enough to have Faja Lobi, which brings a little bit of subtropical warmth into Ghent on even the bleakest of days. Don’t expect haute cuisine in this simple and cosy place, but just let yourself be surprised by affordable unknown dishes including pomtayer sandwich, fried banana and spicy tuna. The massala lamb stew with roti is another finger licking dish, which is literally the case here as many dishes are eaten without cutlery. Watch out: the steep stairs to the toilets on the first floor are not easy to climb, even when sober, let after a few shots of Caribbean rum... QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. Also at Tarbotstraat 31. (€13 - 15). TJLNGBKXS

TapasLa Malcontenta B-2, Haringsteeg 7/9, tel. (+32) 922 41 801, [email protected], www.lamalcontenta.be. In 1987 Marisbel Rodriguez -from La Palma- introduced the Canarian kitchen in Ghent, at La Malcontenta. The name of the restaurant survived but the concept changed : Marisbel’s sons and a friend transformed the restaurant into a tapasbar. Unconventional tapas in a very nice surrounding, what more can a person wish for? (maybe only for the climate of La Palma?) QOpen 16:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. (€3-10). JAK

ThaiLe Baan Thaï B-2, Corduwaniersstraat 57, tel. (+32) 923 32 141, fax (+32) 923 32 009. Without doubt the best Thai restaurant in Ghent. Unfortunately not the cheap-est though: as anywhere else, quality comes at a price. Visiting this wonderfully located restaurant is a true treat for your taste buds. If you can actually make a choice from the very large menu, that is. The decor deserves a compliment as well. In contrast to most Thai restaurants this place is not dominated by cheap knick-knacks, but the rooms have instead been furnished with stylish elements which give this establishment that little bit more atmosphere. Even the cutlery exudes style. We recommend the Thaise Wandeling (Thai Walk), which takes you on a culinary exploration of one of the best cuisines in the world in four abundant courses, for only €35. QOpen 18:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 18:30 - 22:30, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. (€14 - 18). PAK

€1= GBP £0.85; US$1.30 (2 June 2013)



Nenuphar Afsneedorp 28, tel. (+32) 922 12 232, [email protected], www.restau-rant-nenuphar.be. Ghent is a lovely city, but what many people don’t realize is that the city is surrounded by a few idyllic picturesque small villages, where the rivers Scheldt and Lys meander through the green flat countryside. Here painters and writers were inspired in places like St.-Mar-tens-Latem, Afsnee and Deurle.In Afsnee we stumbled upon a nice restaurant, named Nenuphar, where you can choose from a dazzling menu, serving a selection of fine food. Try the Gentse Waterzooi, a typical dish from Ghent, or the ‚paling in het groen’, eel served in a delicious green sauce. Their secret ingredients? The lovely surroundings and the beautiful view on the river and small town church might just be their muse. Definitely worth the detour. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30, 18:30-22:00, Sat 18:30 - 22:00. Closed Wed, Thu. (€16-33). ABK

Out of townTurkishAspendos B-1, Oudburg 11, tel. (+32) 923 35 770. It might not be the cheapest Turkish restaurant in Gent, but it is certainly one of the better ones, and moreover, a spot where sincere hospitality is still the rule and not the exception. Even our clumsily knocked over glass of wine was filled to the brim again: no fuss, no bother and no extra charge. It’s these small things that sets the place apart from its competitors; especially when you realize that Aspendos is only a stone’s throw away from the Sleepstraat, where dozens of other simi-lar restaurants are fighting for the same customers. Also, the (reasonably priced) portions that are served here are to be praised for both their taste and size. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. Closed Tue. (€10 - 14). TJLNBK

VegetarianAvalon B-2, Geldmunt 32, tel. (+32) 922 43 724, [email protected], www.restaurantavalon.be. Try the dish of the day, which is always a surprise : your plate is filled with little heaps of njammie food. And why not try their freshly made carrot, apple and ginger juice? If you had a rough night out and you are planning to start a healthier life, this is the place to be to detox or just simply enjoy a nice vegetarian meal. QOpen 11:30 - 14:30. Closed Mon, Sun. (€11-15). ZTJNGBKS

Cuisine OuVerte Annonciadenstraat 4, tel. (+32) 489 10 56 05, [email protected], www.veggie-cuisineouverte.be. In the mood for some veggie grub? One of the latest additions to Ghent’s ever expanding list of vegetarian restaurants is Cuisine ouVerte. Albeit small, the all-green lunchroom feels warm and welcoming, with beautifully tiled walls and a charming chalk board explaing today’s menu. During lunchtime, the friendly staff opt for the tried and tested buffet formula: you can enjoy hearty soups and there’s a choice between a hot and a cold buffet. Cuisine ouVerte also offers a takeaway formula as well. At night, the chef goes all out and prepares a three-course meal, which changes weekly. Vegans will be happy to hear most dishes are fit for them, although staff urge you to mention it as you order. The food is lovely (the mushroom ragout is an absolute must), surprising and comes at a reasonable price. QOpen i 11:45 - 14:30, 18:00-22:30, Sat 18:00 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. (€6-13). ZTJGKS

De Appelier C-6, Citadellaan 47, tel. (+32) 922 16 733, [email protected], www.deappelier.be. How fitting for a vegetarian restaurant to be situated near one of Ghent’s green lungs, the Citadel Park. Admittedly, to get to De Appelier, one of the oldest vegetarian eateries in Ghent, you first have to cross the busy Citadellaan. However, once you enter, you will feel as if you’ve set foot in another world: the lunchroom is rather grand but cosy, but the showstopper (in summertime) is the lovely back garden. On sunny evenings you could pretend to be in the South of France as you sip your organic beer. Every day, De Appelier offers two dishes of the day, consisting of a wide variety of ingredients, all depending on the eight (!) chefs’ creativity on that particular day.. There is also a seasonal salad on offer. (The blue cheese one is worth a try) At night, a simple pasta dish is added to the menu. The restaurant labels itself as ‘ovo-lacto vegetarian’, meaning its chefs prepare every meal using all organic ingredients, includ-ing eggs and dairy products: sorry, vegans. One final tip: the salad dressing accompanying the plat du jour is truly one of the best we’ve tried. Consider getting the recipe to try out at home your challenge if you decide to eat at De Appelier. Good luck! QOpen 11:30 - 14:00, 17:30-20:30. Closed Sat, Sun. (€9-13). ZTGBK

De Walrus A-3, Coupure Links 497, tel. (+32) 927 93 848, [email protected], walrus-gent.be. De Walrus is ‘een lichtbruin café’, Dutch for ‘it is not fancy enough to take fashionistas to but the place to be at if you fancy a typical place where the locals hang out.’ There is a huge selection of beer, other alcoholic beverages (Belgians are pretty good at that) and they also serve delicious vegetarian food for less than €13. It is a bit of a walk from the city centre, but in that way you can walk off all the extra calories from the beer or food on your way back. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (€5-12). TAGBKW

Komkommertijd C-3, Reep 14, tel. (+32) 485 73 16 17, [email protected], www.komkommertijd.be. This place advertises itself as a ‚vegan all you can eat’ buffet, the only restriction being that you need to finish your plate first before you go for some more of their very tasty vegan goodies. The food is delicious, the setting isn’t that nice though, but drink an extra glass of that biological wine, and you may not even notice this anymore. Another plus : vegetarian restaurants tend to be open only during lunchtimes, here at least vegetarian and vegan fellows can fill their stomachs at a later hour. QOpen 11:45 - 14:30, 18:00-22:30, Sat only evening. Closed Mon, Tue. (€13.50 - 16). ZTJGKS

Lekker Gec A-6, Koningin Maria Hendrikaplein 5, tel. (+32) 924 28 750, [email protected], www.lek-kergec.be. You’ll find no fastfood meals or a varied menu here, but rather, a ‚what you see is what you get’ mentality. From their semi-open kitchen, the cooks keep filling the biological salad bar and five caskets with food. A soup of the day completes your vegetarian menu. And since you’re paying for your meal by weight, you will automatically find yourself buying less than usual, so waste is marginal here. Those who do not only look but also see, will find that the whole concept of Lekker Gec is also ecologically sound - not only do you pay for a healthy meal but you’ll also help create a better environment. And that feeling is priceless. QOpen 12:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 15:00. (€1.50 / 100 gr). ZTJ6NGKSW

Tasty World B-2, Hoogpoort 1, tel. (+32) 225 74 07, [email protected], www.tastyworld.be. This chain of (healthy) fast food restaurants aims for an eco-friendly, green image and this has been applied literally inside this colourful place, from the dark green walls to the light green wooden floor. The young staff care about preparing your fresh

restaurants


31restaurants

Belgians are nicknamed ‘Burgundians’, because - just like the Burgundians of the Middle Ages - they adore their food and drink. The people of Ghent are no exception. As Ghent is a hub of creativity, it comes as no surprise that Flemish Foodies have chosen the city as a breeding ground for their innovative culinary experiments.

Jason Blanckaert, Olly Ceulenaere and Kobe Desra-maults, the so-called Flemish Foodies, are three slightly unruly chefs with a unique culinary philosophy. Each recipe that comes out of their kitchens is not only delicious, but is topped with a substantial amount of rock and roll.

Jason Blanckaert recently opened h is place j.e.f. (which stands for Jason and Famke, his girlfriend) right in the city centre. The restaurant’s stark interior with white-washed walls and wooden tables reflect the straightforward style of Jason’s cuisine. ‘Re-fined rural’ is the label it was given by those in the know, because the young

chef likes to keep it simple. This simplicity does not detract from his talent, passion and basic culinary guts, though. Prices are reasonable to boot: having lunch at j.e.f. will set you back a mere €25. And nighthawks can rest assured: every Friday you can have a bite at j.e.f.’s until 1 AM.

Always pushing boundaries is what Flemish Foodies are known for. This is especially true for Olly Ceulenaere, who will be taking over De Avon-den (The Evenings) during 2013. Olly is leaving Volta to open his own business with his girl friend Kelly. Thanks to Olly, Volta, located in a unique brick building, with a lively mezzanine bar, has become synonymous with gourmet cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere, at af fordable prices. Olly has not yet named his new ‘baby’, but one thing is for sure: the new restaurant will stay true to the Flemish Foodies’ style, i.e. good food prepared from good products, grown with love and respect, yet accessible to all.

2012’s ‘Chef of the Year’ Kobe Desramaults’ bistro restaurant De Vitrine has been much loved from the word go: without reservations chances of getting in are slim. This tiny restaurant

used to be a butcher’s, but now the storefront makes for a cosy bar where you can have a pre-dinner drink. The dining room itself might be quite small and noisy, but the no frills approach to contempo-rary gastronomy and the rea-sonable prices, make for an excellent dining experience.

The Foodies’ have certainly stirred things up in Ghent’s culi-nary scene. Michaël Vrijmoed – previously Belgium’s masterchef Peter Goossens’ right-hand-man – opened his restaurant Vrij-moed just a few months ago. His style can be termed a bit more traditional, as Vrijmoed takes his lead from classic Belgian-French cuisine. Still, fans of good honest food are sure to enjoy Vrijmoed’s rising culinary star. Another promising young foodie is chef de patissier Joost Arijs. His brand-new chocolatier and patissier in the centre of Ghent, has been attracting lovers of chocolates, pralines and patisserie from all over the world. After tast-ing one of his unique ‘Diamant’-chocolates, you can’t but agree with renowned culinary guide Gault Millau, who gave Joost ‘the best Patissier of Belgium’-award.

j.e.f. B-1, Lange Steenstraat 10, tel. (+32) 933 68 058, www.j-e-f.be. QOpen 12:00 - 14:00 and 19:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 14:00 and 19:00 - 01:00, Sat 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun, Mon.

Volta Nieuwewandeling 2b, tel. (+32) 932 40 500, www.volta-gent.be. QOpen 12:00 - 14:00 and 19:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun, Mon.

De Avonden C-2, Ham 39More information on this new concept soon.

De Vitrine C-3, Brabantdam 134, tel. (+32) 933 62 808, www.de-vitrine.be.QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun, Mon.

Vrijmoed C-3, Vlaanderenstraat 22, tel. (+32) 927 99 977, www.vrijmoed.be. QOpen 12:00 - 13:30 and 19:00 - 21:30. Closed Sun, Mon.

Joost Arijs C-3, Vlaanderenstraat 24, tel. (+32) 933 62 310, [email protected], www.joostarijs.be. QOpen 9:00 - 18:30, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Ghent’s Culinary Prodigies: The Flemish Foodies and Beyond

juice, milkshake or sandwiches which are so fresh they are still warm. If you want more to choose from, have a look at the blackboard on the wall which shows the daily specials, neatly categorised as Juice, Soup and Burger. Although the seats are quite comfortable, most visitors choose to take their food out. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Also A Tasty World at Walpoortstraat 38, Mon - Sat 11:00 - 20:00 (€6-12). ZTJ6GBKSW

Warempel C-2, Zandberg 8, tel. (+32) 922 43 062, [email protected]. The name of this restaurant sounds pretty exotic but means nothing more than ‚sure enough’. Indeed, this cosy restaurant serves good food, and sure enough it will even please the carnivores amongst us to convert to the vegetarian kitchen -even only for this once-. The dish of the day is a true delight! QOpen 11:45 - 14:00. (€9-13). ZTJNGK


32 CaFÉs CaFÉs

Ghent has a fantastic café culture, and it is difficult for visitors not to be caught up in its all-encompassing, warm atmosphere. Look out too for our selection of Museum Cafés: great little places located right in the heart of some of the city’s best museums.

Coffeehouses and Breakfast venuesBarista C-3, Hippoliet Lippensplein 25, tel. (+32) 488 46 98 30, [email protected], www.mybarista.be. Barista can be found on the corner of the Vlaanderenstraat and Brabantdam, and there’s another one near Vrijdagmarkt. Both places are charming and offer a nice selection of coffees, sandwiches, cakes, fruit juices and organic delicacies. The staff -a smile on their face- and the excellent service and quality of the food and drinks, gives you the feeling you never want to go home anymore. If you want to impress your better half, go and rent their picturesque and romantic Barista boat, for a private lunch or dinner (don’t worry : the skipper is included in the price). QOpen 08:00 - 18:30, Sat 09:30 - 18:30, Sun 09:30 - 18:00. Also at Meerseniersstraat 16. Open Tue - Fri, 08:00-18:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 18:00. ZJBSW

Den Hoek Af C-3, Vlaanderenstraat 1, [email protected]. Den Hoek has to be one of our favourite spots. Finally, here’s a cafe owner who’s not led by marketing con-cepts but who speaks and serves from the heart. While this approach might have resulted in a hodgepodge of different styles, it provides the place with an atmosphere that would thaw even the most cold-hearted person in the world. Sit down on one of the many second-hand chairs or sofas and enjoy a fresh juice, homemade soup or one of the delicious cakes. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. TJBW

Huize Colette C-2, Belfortstraat 6, tel. (+32) 478 90 64 73, [email protected]. Chocolate, coffee and second-hand books: that basically sums up the lovely Huize Colette, a tranquil hideaway right in the busiest part of Ghent. If you’re looking for a place to kick back and enjoy the most delicious things in life, just order a scrumptious scone, a spicy ‘17th Century’ hot chocolate and take a seat in the iconic green sofa. Early birds can enjoy a lovely breakfast, with a brownie to boot. Have a read in one of the books displayed all over the quaint shop, and why not buy one to take home as a souvenir. There’s free wifi, which is especially appreciated by Ghent students, who often set up camp with their course books and a brownie... or two! QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. TJGW

Julie’s House B-2, Kraanlei 13, tel. (+32) 923 33 390, [email protected], www.julieshouse.be. Cup-cakes are what Julie’s House does best. You can enjoy all different kinds in this English like coffeehouse, where you can feel like Alice in big sweet Wonderland. Even if you don’t like the sweet stuff, this friendly two-storey cafe is still a great place for a long, lazy breakfast. With free internet, a cool atmosphere and lots of locals around it’s little short of perfect. The banana cake is a house favourite. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon, Tue. TJAGBSW

Mokabon B-2, Donkersteeg 37, tel. (+32) 922 57 195, [email protected], www.mokabon.be. Mokabon is where you can arguably find ‘the best coffee in Ghent’. And at a rea-sonable price at that! Although the coffee is definitely great, and invariably served with a lush dollop of whipped cream, the people alone are worth the visit. As the tiny tables are quite close together and the place is always buzzing, you get the opportunity to have a chat with the locals. This authentic little coffee shop was established in 1937 by a young Italian, one of those habitués told us. He then urged us to try one of Mokabon’s delicious waffles with powdered sugar, which turned out to be a lovely treat. Aside from a wide selection of coffees and teas, you can also try a healthy smoothie or a homemade caramel iced coffee. Mokabon’s muffins, donuts and baguettes make for an excellent excuse to hang around

Australian Homemade C-4, Woodrow Wilson-plein, www.australianicecream.be. This large chain specialises in gourmet chocolates and ice cream that can be enjoyed on the premises of the first floor in this shopping centre. It also offers sorbets and so-called ‘ farm creams’ that are supposedly made according to outback recipes from Down Under. Although this last claim seems a little dubious since the chocolate they use is Belgium-made, the final product is tasty nonetheless. This outlet has limited seating to enjoy one of the 18 choices. Don’t leave without having tried the Didgeridoo sorbet. Q Also at Veldstraat 21. TJA

Gelateria Ferrara C-3, Vlaanderenstraat 127, tel. (+32) 922 55 550, fax (+32) 922 55 560, [email protected], www.gelateriafer -rara.be. This truly Italian gelateria perfectly blends in with this hip and trendy neighbourhood. Lots of shoppers take a break from shopping here for the delicious homemade ice cream and when we saw the mouth-watering selection of gelato we under-stood why. In case your stomach needs something more than ice cream, you will also find ciabattas, pancakes and the ‘pasta of the day’ on the menu. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. C losed Sun. (€5 - 10). TJAGBKXS

Moochie B-2, Klein Turkije 14, [email protected], www.moochie.be. Moochie is quite simply heaven-on-earth for frozen yogurt lovers (and yes, they write it without the h). Since May 2012 this American invention has been improved in true Belgian style, with everything made from local cow’s milk. There’s a deli-style counter where you can pick any decadently rich topping you like from a wide selection of fruit or crunchies, and make your own delicacy. It’s 100 per cent natural, uses fresh ingredients and sounds almost too good to be true, but isn’t. It’s the real deal. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. TJS

Nonno C-3, Kortedagsteeg 22, tel. (+32) 475 23 62 62, [email protected], www.nonno.be. As soon as the sun appears from behind the clouds and the temperature just slightly rises, people begin lining up at this tiny ice cream shop. Delicious home-made and daily fresh gelato is what makes Nonno one of the most popular spots for local ice cream addicts. The Belgian-Italian owner has continued what is a family ice cream making tradition and in all modesty he told us he just tries to make the best gelato in Ghent. In our equally modest opinion, we think he has succeeded. Note that the opening times are somewhat dependent on the weather; Nonno often closes early on days when the sun stays at home. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. TJS

Ice cream

CaFÉs


33CaFÉs

Het Leescafé C-4, Graaf van Vlaanderenplein 40, tel. (+32) 477 77 27 63, [email protected]. You’ll find this spacious lunchroom on the first floor of the public library. This reading café is also open for non-members of the library and, aside from the reasonably priced soups, sandwiches and pas-tas, it offers (hot) drinks and alcoholic beverages (in Belgium, reading a good book or an interesting magazine requires an ice cold pint of beer by your side). There is a large sunny ter-race with a panoramic view of thousands of commuters, and you can also go and have fun by studying the monumental stained glass window here, by the artist Herman Blondeel. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€3- 8). TJULNBK

Het Salon C-4, Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 194, tel. (+32) 922 50 355. Het Salon is a typical student bar. It is literally located at the foot of the Boekentoren, which is characteristic for Ghent and exudes knowledge and literature. The place is full of tables where students sit working at their laptops. You have a choice of many kinds of tea,coffee or student-friendly affordable cakes and sandwiches. Surrounded by books, paintings and students that sandwich tastes just that little bit better. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€3 - 6). AUGKW

Le Bar Depot, Bistro & Brocante C-2, Beverhoutplein 14, tel. (+32) 485 44 04 25. Le Bar Depot opens at 6am on flea market days. Despite the early hour, bubbles are the most served drinks here. While sipping Champagne, Cava or Kirr Royal, art lovers get in the mood before the market starts. The heated terrace is extremely popular but the huge chandeliers, intimate seats and paintings from great artists also make the inside a nice place to sit. As you might expect from a chic place like this, the service is good. Prices are very reasonable though. QOpen 06:00 - 14:00, Sat 06:30 - 14:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. Breakfast €5 - 11. JG

a little longer. If you’re in a rush, just grab a coffee to go, from the colourful take-away window. And don’t forget to take home some freshly ground Mokabon coffee for your mum. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JGS

OR C-3, Walpoortstraat 26, tel. (+32) 922 36 500, www.orcoffee.be. If someone would ask us where you can get the best coffee and the best brownies of Ghent, at OR would be the correct answer. This nice little place offers you a fantastic selection of coffees, homemade lemonades and splendid teas. It’s also the only place in Ghent where they serve bagels, and that also deserves an extra star! Don’t hesitate to walk inside if the windows are steamy, just hop in and enjoy this nice little gem. QOpen 07:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:30. TJNGSW

LunchroomsBalls & Glory C-2, Sint-Jacobsnieuwstraat 103, tel. (+32) 486 67 87 76, www.ballsnglory.be. Wim Ballieu is the Flemish version of Jamie Oliver (in his earlier years), presenting a cool new formula: meatballs (even vegetarian ones). Ever tried a meatball filled with cherries, black olives or even rhubarb? You can enjoy your lunch in this nice setting, and your meatballs will be accompanied with stoemp (mashed potatoes). You can even buy some meatballs to surprise your other half in the evening with a romantic dinner (you can always pretend you’ve turned into a fantastic cook with aspirations for your own culinary TV-programme). QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JAGKS

Café Labath A-2, Oude Houtlei 1, tel. (+32) 922 52 825, [email protected], www.cafelabath.be. Café Labath is situated in a unique corner building, and is known around town because of its warm retro design. A distinctive vintage bar, a colourful mosaic wall and comfy white designer chairs make you perk up as soon as you walk in. To chase that bad mood away for good, try one of Labath’s yummy ‘slow coffees’, skillfully prepared on the spot by their award winning baristas. This is more than coffee, this is art. Feeling peckish? Why not order a sandwich with real Ghent Tierenteyn mustard, freshly made soup, or a piece of delicious cheesecake (made by Julie’s House). QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. TJGBSW

De Poort Croissanterie D-2, Oktrooiplein 12, tel. (+32) 922 39 822. Located right next to Dampoort railway station, this place has everything a passenger might need. You can buy newspapers, magazines, cigarettes, soft drinks, sandwiches and bus tickets here. In case you have to wait a while for your train, why not sit down and have a coffee or a beer on the outside terrace? If you really have a long waiting time, you could order a soup or toasty. De Poort is just left of the main entrance to the station: follow the signs with ‘taverne’ written on them. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€2 - 6). GBKXS

Gwenola B-3, Volderstraat 66, tel. (+32) 922 31 739, [email protected], www.gwenola.be. Gwenola belongs to the heart of the culinary scene in Ghent; maybe not when it comes to high-quality dishes, but most certainly because of its authentic feel. Since 1963, students, shopping ladies and pensioners have been eating pancakes here - be it with a twist, because in the two separate Gwenola joints the pancakes are served according to a recipe from Breton, in France. The majority of the staff here might not be young and hip, but their sincere friendliness and speedy service are textbook. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Also at Donkersteeg 12-16. TJLGBK


34 CaFÉs nightliFeSimon Says B-1, Sluizeken 8, tel. (+32) 923 30 343, [email protected], www.simon-says.be. At the edge of Patershol, one of the loveliest districts of Ghent, at a major traffic artery, there’s Simon Says. In an artistic setting, inside or outside, you can enjoy all sorts of cof-fee, smoothies, chai teas, one of the four draft beers, or something from a whole list of wines. The homemade pies, too, are an attraction. The mosaic-covered tables, the paintings by Flemish artist Panamarenko on the wall (married to Eveline Hoorens, who delivers the coffee beans here) and the lounge music create a relaxing atmosphere. The fresh soup of the day and the Club Simon sandwich are also good reasons to visit as often as possible. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (€3 - 8). JA6GBKXSW

Soep+ C-4, Lammerstraat 33, tel. (+32) 922 31 688, [email protected], www.soepplus.be. If you’re up for a freshly made soup or a sandwich at Soep+, you’d better take a good look at the opening hours. This sleek joint is only open for four hours a day, Monday to Friday. Besides three different kinds of soup, you can choose between five varying sandwiches and three salads every week. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€4 - 9). JKS

Ventura Sint-Jacobsnieuwstraat 25, tel. (+31) 933 54 759, www.linoventure.be. This place offers a nice alternative to all the other places offering the same old (ham & cheese, the old time classic prepare (raw meat), chicken

Jacquet C-3, Vlaanderenstraat 118, tel. (+32) 922 54 725, [email protected]. A visit to Jacquet is like lowering yourself into a nice warm bath. Although the original French owner of this lunchroom sadly passed away years ago, his kind spirit still floats about in this cosily decorated joint. The whole left side of this recently renovated place is filled with displays of homemade pies, biscuits and other sweets, while on the right you’ll find six sets of tables and chairs that fill up every inch of space. Privacy might be hard to find here, but the relaxed ambiance, the attentive staff and the charming owner make a visit all the more worth it. QOpen 06:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue, Wed. ZJAGBKS

Oud Huis Himschoot B-2, Groentenmarkt 1, tel. (+32) 932 90 904. For over a century the charming Bakkerij Himschoot, located at the Groentenmarkt, has been known for its tasty homemade bread. The process of crafting and baking the artisan Himschoot bread has remained largely the same as a hundred years ago: quality ingredients are mixed, hand shaped, and baked in small batches in masonry ovens on site. Every nook and cranny of the tiny bakery is filled with tasty treats, such as the infamous ‘Gentse neuzen’. Recently, the bakery opened a second shop, Oud Huis Himschoot, near St Pieters station. Here you can also grab a loaf of your favourite specialty bread, but why not hang around and enjoy a simple but generous breakfast. The cosy breakfast area boasts a large table and a few smaller ones, surrounded by a collection of quirky sixties para-phernalia. The syrupy jam and the croissants are particu-larly delightful. An ideal way to get your energy levels up before exploring Ghent. QOpen 07:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 18:00. Also check out Oud Huis Himschoot at Koningin Elisabethlaan 57. Opens daily at 08:00. Closed on Wednesday. TJSW

Bakeries

curry). You can enjoy soup, a sandwich here, while trying to decipher the Flemish newspapers. Don’t forget to try a piece of homemade cake before you’re off on the streets again. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TJNGS

Vooruit C-4, Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 23, tel. (+32) 926 72 820, vooruit.be. One of the most popular places to have lunch in Ghent. The monumental building itself is worth a look even if you are not eating. In 1914, the labour move-ment in Ghent started using this place as a cultural centre for its members and factory managers alike. Yet while the original socialist mentality might have been lost years ago, you can still have lunch here for highly reasonable prices. Chalkboards announce the dish of the day, there’s also a vegetarian option. If you like to finish your meal with a good cup of coffee, we advise you to check our list of coffeehouses, since the coffee here isn’t the best you’ll find in Ghent. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Mon, Tue 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. TJALEGKCW

Museum cafesMub’art B-6, Fernand Scribedreef 1, tel. (+32) 922 14 489, [email protected], www.mubart.be. This eatery is located in the cellar of the Museum voor de Schone Kunsten (Museum of Fine Arts) and its grey, green and orange colours form a great contrast to the high ceilings and light rooms inside the museum. Don’t expect a culinary feast, but instead affordable dishes, some of whose names alone will tickle your fancy, unless you are already familiar with dishes like the Flem-ish tutjespap (a particular kind of mashed potato) with sorrel or almond croquette. Also, the extensive wine list stands out. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (€7 - 13). THAULBKS

STAMcafe A-5, Godshuizenlaan 2, tel. (+32)928 58 350, [email protected], www.stamgent.be. This mu-seum presenting the city’s history opened in October 2010, and is definitely worth a visit. But even without visiting the museum, you should try to have lunch at the museum’s café : a nice selection of sandwiches and typical dishes of Ghent : you must try the Gentse stoverij (a kind of goulash). The location, Bijloke, is a former medieval hospital, where you can still feel the ghosts’ presence of former plague victims... Don’t tell us we didn’t warn you... QOpen 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Mon. (€9 - 12).

Walpoortstraat café, photo by Reine Ortiz

CaFÉs


35nightliFeOnce again, the number of pubs in Ghent has increased this past year. It would almost certainly be possible to visit a different pub every day of the year, without ever visiting the same place twice. It is also worth noting that, even though Ghent is a genuine student city, it doesn’t die at the weekend, when many students go back to their home cit-ies. Ghent also has more than its fair share of good clubs.

BarsCafé Afsnis C-2, Bij Sint-Jacobs 10. Of the handful of alternative cafes in Ghent, this one is our favourite. Located at the attractive square of Bij Sint-Jacobs, there are a wide range of restaurants and bars nearby, but the unpretentious Afsnis has stole our hearts the moment it opened in 1996. On sunny days, make sure you arrive here early, because the sun-bathed patio chairs are in high demand, and not only with the exhibitors and visitors of the flea market that takes place here every weekend. The charm of Afsnis is that it attracts a wide variety of cafe lovers who all admire and praise the cosy and homely atmosphere of the place. And with a choice of nearly thirty different beers, you don’t have to stay thirsty in this rather sparingly furnished bar. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 04:00. T6LNGBXW

Café den Turk C-2, Botermarkt 3, tel. (+32) 923 30 197, [email protected], www.cafedenturk.be. The oldest cafe in Ghent (1228) is still one of the most popular. In 1944, this was even the homebase of the Canadian allied forces during the liberation. In fact, the interior of this brown cafe has not changed much since World War Two. With wonderful retro lamps, the black and white chequered floor, the wooden tables with red cloths and the lace curtains, this pub could well be a location for a historic drama. The Belgian beer menu is rich with choices and you all beer comes in the correct glass. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. JG

Café Jan van Gent A-3, Annonciadenstraat 1, tel. (+32) 925 60 203. Although bird watchers won’t find the tough sea bird Jan-van-Gent in urban Ghent, the relaxed atmosphere makes visiting this cosy pub with the same name definitely worth your while. Although the furniture is a wild mix of styles, somehow it all comes together perfectly. Come and have one of the five beers on draft, if you’re interested in the story of the many stuffed animals on the wall and the large window. Our tip: the blond Keizer Karel (Charles Quint). The two different outdoor terraces, with heated chairs, are also real crowd pleas-ers. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. LGBKXW

De Belleman B-2, Botermarkt 8, tel. (+32) 922 40 152, [email protected]. Long before the introduction of the Internet, radio and television, town criers or bell men went around to make loud public announcements of all important new laws and (naturally) gossip. This age old profession may have died out in most of Europe, but in pub De Belleman this tradition is still honoured. Over the years landlady Marie-Paul has collected a large number of bells which are nicely put on show in her authentic pub. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. JNB

De Spinnekop Einde Were 42, tel. (+32) 922 30 088, [email protected]. You have to put a little effort in to finding this place, as De Spinnenkop isn’t exactly in the centre of Ghent. But those who are tired of student-like behaviour and like to turn their backs on the groups of tourists every once in a while, are welcome in this authentic watering hole. One look at the opening hours and you’ll realize that the owner of the place couldn’t care less about what everyone else does, as he keeps his little pad inconventionally closed on Fridays and Saturdays. A look at the exteriors reveals that the property has seen better

Kinky Star C-2, Vlasmarkt 9, tel. (+32) 933 57 342, [email protected], www.kinkystar.com. Every new metal band in Belgium seems to have been founded in Kinky Star. The last fifteen years, thousands of (wannabe) rock artists have been baptised here. But mind you: Kinky Star does not limit itself to one specific style - you’ll also hear Flemish hiphop, electro music and plenty of rock here. The stage out back turns into a seat-ing area later in the evenings. And believe it or not, Kinky Star is also an excellent place for cocktails. For those who like the ambience, but hate the music, you can get free earplugs at the bar. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00, Tue, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Wed. JLEGB

La Resistenza C-3, Brabantdam 82, tel. (+32) 925 60 967, [email protected], www.la-resistenza.com. As far as food’s concerned La Re-sistenza is no more than average. Yet as far as small scale live performances are concerned this music pub is definitely one of the better places in town, where you can enjoy intimate jazz concerts or see new bands. The beer here is actually cheaper than water, just like in the Middle Ages. QOpen 16:00 - 02:00, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Wed, Sun. JLEGBX

Live Music

times - a lick of paint and a bit of putty could work miracles. On the inside, too, the past glory is hinted at, but it does not seem to bother any of the patrons at all: they’re only interested in the affordable price of their Jupiler beer, at only €1.40. QOpen 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Fri, Sat. LNGX

Dreupelkot B-2, Groentenmarkt 12, tel. (+32) 922 42 120, fax (+32) 922 40 479, [email protected], www.dreupelkot.be. This small but very cosy pub has a selection of more than 200 kinds of jenever (Dutch gin). The owner even regularly distills his own stuff. Just never say to him that all je-nevers are similar, because he won’t be amused and will teach you a thing or two. He will explain the art of producing jenever in detail, so you will never again consider it to be just something old men drink. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. JG

Geus van Gent C-5, Kantienberg 9, tel. +32 922 07 825, [email protected], www.geuzenhuis.be. Café Geus van Gent offers a second home to the free spirits of Ghent. They come here to talk about life, play some pool, receive inspiration or sit back and get drunk. With either a glass of wine, a cocktail or a home brewed bear. Or two. The different areas, the mix of homely furniture and the relaxed background music, make that everybody feel instantly at ease here. Wednesday night you can attend jam sessions for free. QOpen 16:00 - 3:00, Sat, Sun 19:00 - 5:00. . JLG

Herberg De Dulle Griet B-2, Vrijdagmarkt 50, tel. (+32) 922 42 455, fax (+32) 922 42 305, [email protected], www.dullegriet.be. Brown bars are rarely as brown as De Dulle Griet. Take a seat in the ‘old Flemish interior’, as the sign outside says, and choose from over 250 different beers on offer. If you pick the ‘beer of the month’ you get a second one for free, but the speciality is definitely the ‘Max on the house’, a beer which is served in such a special glass that it requires you to hand over your shoe as deposit! Yet another oddity, this is probably the only bar in Belgium which is named after a canon; the red canon dating from 1431 down the road on Groot Kanonplein to be precise. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Mon 16:30 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:30. JGB


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Het Spijker B-2, Pensmarkt 3 - 5, tel. (+32) 932 94 440. Even though Het Spijker might not be very clear about what audience it’s targeting, the place is packed every single day, and everybody in this centuries-old spot seems to be fine with that. From old hippies to students, from shopping women to rockers. Even though the large terrace at the front side is filled to the last spot once there’s a tiny bit of sunshine, the rear (through the smoking area) reveals a small hidden terrace with a lovely view over the Leie. Don’t leave Het Spijker without having a look at the inside of this monumental building, too - be it for the cool girls that serve you, or the swinging blues rock music they play here. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. JA6LGBXW

Het Trefpunt C-2, Bij Sint-Jacobs 18, tel. (+32) 922 53 676, fax (+32) 923 31 037, [email protected], www.trefpunt.be. It’s been around for decades and yet Trefpunt Café has never lost its hip image. This is a pub for real music lovers of all types and styles of music. Whether you’re looking for singer-songwriter classics or house music, you can find it here at weekends. Even on a hangover Monday this place is full of people chatting away while nipping on their Jupiler. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00. JLB

Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant B-2, Groentenmarkt 9, tel. (+32) 922 50 680, fax (+32) 922 40 479, [email protected], www.waterhuisaande-bierkant.be. It won’t be easy to find another pub in Ghent where beer is as important as in this place. With a selection of no less than 160 Belgian beers and 17 of those on draft, you can’t go wrong. Name any Belgian beer and they’ll pour you one, from Aardbeienbier (Strawberry beer) to Zinnebir (a Belgian ale). Add the good atmosphere in this typically Belgian pub - few are more authentic - and the staff who are always willing to give you an explanation of the beer they’ve just poured for you, and suddenly you’ll be six beers further down the line. Simply brilliant. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. JA6UEB

Jos C-2, Vlasmarkt 7. Jos is located on the best square in Ghent for going out, the Vlasmarkt. It’s not the kind of pub where you go for a chat, because the music is too loud, although there are usually quite a few couples and groups of friends desperately trying to communicate with each other. It’s also impossible to detect a particular style in the DJ’s choice of music. On the other hand, Jos’ artistic atmosphere is fabulous. Black and white photographs of artists and mu-rals of lascivious objects combine well in this pub. It’s also a good place for cocktails. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JLNG

Kaaiman C-3, Reep 9, tel. (+32) 923 43 410, www.kaaimancafe.be. Kaaiman calls itself another kind of bar with another kind of interior, menu and music. So yes, it’s not the kind of bar you’ll find at the nearby hotspots of the Vlasmarkt and the Oude Beestenmarkt. At this spacious bar with lounge music, the interior is modern but modest. All tables are widely spaced out and the menu gives a fairly wide selection of beer, aperitifs and spirits. The atmosphere is relaxed and the two bar owners rarely rush. Still, Kaaiman is missing some schwung. Perfect for a quiet drink in a stress-free ambience though. QOpen 15:00 - 02:30. Closed Mon, Tue. JGBW

Limonada B-3, Heilige-Geeststraat 7, tel. (+32) 923 37 585, [email protected]. With its trendy and cosmo-politan look, this pub offers the opportunity to step outside typically Belgian nightlife for a while. Slightly hidden in the Heilige-Geeststraat, with a front door that hardly stands out, you get the feeling you’ve found a hidden gem when you come here for the first time. Relaxed, trendy and loungy are words that describe Limonada best. But above all this is one of the better places to come to in Ghent for a cocktail. The strawberry daiquiri in particular is worth a try, although the expert staff will be able to give you a number of other tips. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. J

Old Fashioned Koning Albertlaan 115, tel. (+32) 927 95 215, [email protected], www.old-fashioned.be. Since February 2012, Ghent has its own cocktail and absinthe bar. At this peaceful place close to St-Pieters station, you drink your cocktail at a reasonable price. Tom and Steve, the bartenders in white shirts and braces, make the cocktails according to the original recipe. For the long-banished absinthe, you have to ask for the separate menu. On a week night, it is very quiet at the bar but the suitable old-fashioned décor makes you feel at home. The menus in English are an extra plus. QOpen 20:00 - 01:00, Fri 19:00 - 01:00, Sat 17:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (€8 - 9). G

Rococo B-2, Corduwaniersstraat 57, tel. (+32) 922 43 035. If you’re having trouble finding Rococo in Pater-shol’s medieval surroundings, look for an establishment solely lit by candles. In this restful environment, which is further enhanced by classical background music and a crackling fire (in winter), you cannot help but relax. For nearly 25 years owner Betty has been the driving force behind this oasis. The landlady pampers her guests, usually consisting of artists, creative minds and the occasional tourist, without being in the way. Lovebirds receive a free, home made love potion... QOpen 22:00 - 03:00. JG

CocktailsJigger’s B-2, Oudburg 16, tel. (+32) 933 57 025, [email protected], www.jiggers.be. You have to pass the face check at the door here, before you’re allowed to descend to the cellar. The handwritten menu is packed with recipes for delicious cocktails with extraordinary names like Green Beast, Horses Neck and Run Crusta. But the booklet also mentions the house rules: ‚Behave like real men and women’ and ‚No loud talking and no talking about fighting.’ The well-dressed staff, with suspenders and bow ties, supervise the place and are always ready to advise you. A must! QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:30. Closed Mon, Sun. (€9 - 11). JLG

Polé Polé Café C-4, Lammerstraat 8, tel. (+32) 935 66 700, fax (+32) 935 66 710, [email protected], www.polepole.be. Two exotic cocktail bars in one. Polé Polé café is decorated in African spheres and has a

Brewery Gruut C-3, Grote Huidevettershoek 10, tel. (+32) 926 90 269, fax (+32) 922 52 332, [email protected], www.gruut.be. In the Middle Ages city dwellers had a valid excuse to drink beer on a daily basis. This alcoholic brew had been boiled and was there-fore a much safer drink than the polluted water. The only remaining city brewery in Ghent, Gruut, is unique in that it doesn’t use hops in its five different beers, but a mix of herbs. Even after having tried them several times, we are not really able to tell you which one is our favourite. The White, Blonde, Amber, Brown and Inferno beer each have their own characteristic flavour. There are regular tours of the brewery, when you are given a torrent of information in just forty minutes. Allegedly, the mayor of Ghent can be observed naked on a large painting, even when you’re sober... QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. JEBK

Microbreweries

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large wooden bar with all the necessary cocktail-making equipment. Attached to this African style bar is a Mexican style bar called the Gringo. Here you will see sombreros on the ceiling and drink ... you guessed it, exotic cocktails. The Gringo bar opens a bit later than Polé Polé, at 20.30. Both bars use the same entrance, the same toilet facilities and at both you can enjoy the same Latin music. QOpen 19:00 - 02:00. J6GX

Poppi Cocktail & Lounge bar B-2, Korenlei 10, tel. (+32) 926 97 745, [email protected], www.marriottghent.be. An absolute eyecatcher in the centrally-located Marriott hotel, whose large glass dome functions as the beating heart of this luxurious place. At the foot of this six-floor transparent wall, you’ll find an oasis of peace and quiet. By day, this red-and-black coloured lounge area serves as a meeting place for hotel guests and anyone who wants to be pampered. Later in the evening, the relaxing music here is often disturbed by the sound of shaking, when the bartenders do their best Tom Cruise moves with their cocktail shakers. With prices way below those of similar bars, this spacious spot is an absolute must. Every Wednesday, there’s live piano music; every Friday, it’s Happy Hour from 5pm to 7pm. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PJAULGKW

Jazz barsHot Club de Gand B-2, Groentenmarkt 15b, tel. (+32) 486 74 07 99, [email protected], www.hotclubdegand.be. You will have to pay attention to find the entrance to this place, which is in a narrow alley off Groentenmarkt that is easily missed. Once you found the entrance, chances are that you will then be searching for a spot to sit down. The Hot Club is often packed, and we totally understand why. Five days a week (Friday and Saturday are the exceptions) jazz bands play for a generally young crowd, making it a great place to spend a relaxing evening. Live music is performed on the ground floor, but you could also sit at the somewhat improvised upper floor or on the lovely terrace outside. QOpen 15:00 - 02:00. JEGBX

Hotsy Totsy A-2, Hoogstraat 1, tel. (+32) 922 42 012. Check out the wallpaper at this fancy jazzbar : you will immediately feel in the mood to order a cocktail or just sip a Martini. If you’re less in the mood to watch around and feel fancy, you can always invite your friends to come over for a board-game or a game of pool. QOpen 18:00, Sat, Sun 20:00. JN

Jazz Café Damberd B-2, Korenmarkt 19, tel. (+32) 932 95 337, [email protected], www.damberd.be. For more than 25 years Damberd has been a well-established name in Ghent. Jazz enthusiasts of all ages have made it their fave spot, but really anyone who enjoys good music, a drink and a chat is welcome here. It can be difficult to find a seat on busy nights, but once you’ve found one it won’t be easy to drag yourself home. Damberd’s beer list is quite extensive. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 13:00 - 01:00. 6EBX

Minor Swing C-2, Ottogracht 56, tel. (+32) 494 90 64 83, [email protected]. This jazz bar might just be one of our favourite ones in Ghent : nice atmosphere, good music, very good wine and friendly staff. Every first Sunday of the month, there’s a live gig. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. JN

Misterioso C-1, Krommewal 96, tel. (+32) 474 72 11 06, [email protected], www.misterioso.be. The location, along a busy road in the middle of a residential

area on the edge of the city centre, is not the best. However, this is the only downside we can think of. Misterioso is a lovely jazz bar with a great vibe. It is one of those places designed for conversations about literature, philosophy and, of course, music. Every once in a while you can see live jazz bands playing here, usually on Wednesday evenings. The interior features dusty sofas and a piano that looks like it has survived both World Wars, but in our opinion the rickety furniture creates a nicely warm ambiance. Another prominent element in the interior is the bumper-billiard table, but you might want to ask the staff about the rules of the game first. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00. JENGBX

PubsMosquito Coast B-2, Hoogpoort 28, tel. (+32) 922 43 720, [email protected], www.mosqui-tocoast.be. For a moment we imagined ourselves in a backpacker\s pub on the Caribbean Mosquito Coast. That was until we looked outside the window and saw rain drizzling on Hoogpoort shopping street. On rainy days, this traveller’s pub can severely trigger the imagination and just seeing all the lovely photographs, maps and souvenirs from exotic places around the world makes us sometimes forget the beauty of our own city. Mosquito Coast not only is a source of travel inspiration, it is also the place to meet fellow globe trotters. Drinks and dishes from all continents can be ordered, of which the local favourite is the Mac Mar-rakech. There is even a travel agency conveniently located at the entrance. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. J6GBKX

Café De Ploeg C-4, Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 13, tel. (+32) 477 55 83 78. This large bar is a great place to hang out and play a few games of pool. An hour of pool at one of the three excellent tables costs €8. You can also play foosball, throw darts or try to beat the high-score on the pinball machine. Owner Danny has enough CDs stacked behind the bar to make sure you will have a nice evening and thanks to a large balcony, smokers will also feel very welcome. The bar is located in the section of Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat just north of Vooruit. Look for the door with number 13a and walk up the metal stairs. The entrance is the left door with a ‘non-smoking’ sticker on it. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat 20:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. JGBKX

Overpoort Bowl B-5, Overpoortstraat 38, tel. (+32) 922 42 418, [email protected], www.overpoortbowl.be. I f we didn’t know any better, we would think the only thing local students do is hang around here. Or to put it differently, it wouldn’t sur-prise us if the Overpoort Bowl was amongst the top five reasons for lecture absenteeism. This large bar, located in the heart of the student district, is often flooded with students playing games of pool, trying to hit a strike at the bowling lane or pressing buttons on arcade machines. There are also foosball tables, dart boards, large TVs showing football matches and, not unimportantly, inexpensive drinks on offer. In any case, you don’t need to be a student to come here. Pool costs €6 per hour and there are seven tables to choose from. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. GBX

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The Belfry B-2, Sint-Baafsplein, tel. (+32) 937 53 161, www.bel-fortgent.be. The Belfry is the middle of Ghent’s famous row of three-towers and the proudest symbol of the city’s independence. The dragon on top of the tower is the symbolic guardian of the city privileges, which were kept in a trunk in the ‚secrecy room’ until 1539. You can’t make it to the dragon, but you can climb a long way up and enjoy an amazing view over the city. Every Friday and Sunday, Ghent’s carillons perform concerts. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: adults €5. JL

Town Hall B-2, Boter-markt 1. Both the interior and exterior of Ghent’s City Hall faces many differ-ent styles of architecture, from Gothic to Renais-sance, from flamboyant to sober. The City Hall is probably the most popular spot in Ghent for wed-

dings, and since 2011, it’s even possible to get married in the Ghent dialect here. Q Opening times vary, closed on Fridays and weekends. J

Boat toursRederij De Gentenaer B-2, Groentenmarkt, tel. (+32) 926 90 869, fax (+32) 923 15 484, [email protected], www.rederijdegentenaer.be. Standard guided tours at De Gentenaer will take you for 50 minutes along the Leie River, allowing you to view the city’s highlights from a different perspective. Boats are decent and large enough for at least 20 people. Beware though that the boats are roof-less, so if dark clouds are appearing in the sky, it might be wise to postpone the river journey for a while. Guides are well equipped with all sorts of fun facts and trivia, which they will narrate in Dutch, English and French. The point of departure is near Groentenmarkt, next to the entrance of ‘Waterhuis aan de Bierkant’. Departure times depend upon the weather, with intervals between leaving boats varying from 10 to 30 minutes. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Adults €6.50, students and 60+ €6, children under 12 €3.50. TJ

BuildingsAchtersikkel C-2, Biezekapelstraat. Walk through the narrow S-shaped street just north of St Bavo’s Church and you will find a delightfully quiet courtyard surrounded by 14th and 15th century buildings. Achtersikkel is named after the aristocratic Vander Sickelen family, which resided here for several centuries. The tall round tower has a renais-sance style gazebo dating from 1566, which unfortunately is inaccessible to the public. Since the early 20th century, Achtersikkel has housed Ghent’s conservatoire, so you might be able to enjoy some classical music while admiring the medieval architecture. J

Castle of the Counts B-2, Sint-Veerleplein 11, tel. (+32) 922 59 306, fax (+32) 923 35 037, www.gent.be. The Gravensteen Castle, originally a fortress built by Count Boudewijn I in about 868, was rebuilt as a castle at the behest of Philip of Alsace, Count of Flanders. The structure, situated in the heart of Ghent, was once a residence of the Count and was later used as a cotton mill but is now a tourist attraction in itself, as the only remaining medieval castle in Flanders. This

There is much to see in Ghent, from the old industrial parts of the city which have become hip, trendy arts venues to the fine Gothic architecture of the city centre. There are fine parks and gardens too, and some seriously good museums. We have a guide to the best of it all.

Essential GhentGhent Illuminated Tel. (+32) 926 67 760, fax (+32) 926 67 799, www.gent.be/gentverlicht. Due to a comprehensive light plan, Ghent can be wonderfully re-explored after sun-set. All of the city’s main monuments are attractively illuminated at night, which brings a different perspective to the medieval sights. Details of build-ings which are concealed during the

day become accentuated at night. The Graslei is superbly lit and the illuminated Belfry shouldn’t be missed either. The city has developed a two hour walking tour past Ghent’s illuminated highlights, and you can pick up a brochure with the walking route at the tourist office, or you can download it from the website. TJ6

Graslei B-2, Graslei. It’s very simple. You haven’t really been to Ghent if you haven’t seen the Graslei. Together with the Leie River and the Korenlei on the opposite side of the water, this is Ghent’s prime highlight and the bustling heart of the city. From the 11th century until the late Middle Ages, the quays of Graslei and Korenlei served as the city’s main port as well as a major trade centre for grain. The buildings at number 9 and 12 are former guildhalls of grain traders and the building at number 10 used to be a wheat storehouse. The latter building is also the oldest step gable house in the world, and dates from the 12th century. On sunny days, the quays of Graslei and Korenlei are usually packed with people, simply because locals love to hang out at this picturesque spot. The best views of the Graslei are from St Michael’s bridge or from Korenlei across the Leie River. J

Great Beguinage Groot Be-gijnhof 67, tel. (+32) 922 82 308, [email protected], www.grootbegijnhof.be. This remarkably large beguinage is an oasis of serenity within the bustling city. The walled village was constructed in 1873 as a replacement for the older St Elisabeth’s beguinage, which by

that time had almost completely lost its closed character due to the city’s expansion. Over 700 devout women moved to the new location at Sint-Amandsberg to continue their religious life in quietness. Throughout the 20th century, the number of beguines continuously decreased until the last beguine died in 2003. Despite the fact that the Great Beguinage has now lost its original function, the gates are still closed from 23:00 until 06:00 and it truly remains a haven of tranquillity. At the centre of the largely neo-gothic beguinage stands a tall church, which is surrounded by eight hectares of greenery and houses, making it a beautiful place to spend a quiet afternoon. Together with several other beguinages around Flanders, the Great Beguinage of Ghent is listed as UNESCO world-heritage sight for its historical value. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. 6B

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39what to see

and since 1904, the state archives’ office has been housed here. Only the reading room of the archive office is accessible to the public. You get the best view of this intriguing structure from Reep. J

The Episcopal Pal-ace C-3, Bisdomplein 2, www.kerknet.be/bisdomgent. S in c e 1845, this white palace has been the residence of the Bishop of Ghent. In order not to create too much contrast with St Bavo’s Church, the architect added neo-gothic elements to the mainly neo-classical structure. Look for instance at the typically gothic tracery in the windows or the crockets at the balcony. The palace by itself might not be very impressive, but with the National Bank on the left, some white-coloured buildings on the right and the Episcopal Palace in the middle, the square as a whole does look rather nice. J

The Little Toll House Graslei 11. If you don’t pay at-tention, you’ll walk past this house without even noticing it. Nevertheless, there lies a history in what is the narrowest house on the Graslei. The little Toll House is built in an alley that provided quick access to the water in case of fire and is squeezed between the storehouse (now Belga Queen) and the Tweede Korenmetershuis. In the 17th and 18th century, the Toll House was used as a place to collect taxes on grain. Clearly, the public servants didn’t need much room. The gable of the house dates from the 17th century and probably replaced a wooden medieval façade. In 1912, the house was restored and now serves as a tiny pub.

‚t Toreken C-2, Vrijdagmarkt 36, tel. (+32) 922 52 225, www.poeziecentrum.be. The oldest building at Vrijdag-markt was once the guildhall of Ghent’s leather tanners. It fell into decay in the early 20th century, but in the 1980s the building was renovated. It now houses a poetry centre. ‘t Toreken is named after its main feature: the tall watchtower. On the top of the tower, you can see a mermaid who turns with the wind and symbolically protects the inland waterways. There are no stairs in the whole building, because its former inhabitants used ladders to climb the tower. The logic is that ladders could be pulled up in case someone attacked the building. Renovations brought an elevator, which is said to be the slowest in Belgium, because too much vibration would damage the monument. J

impressively restored castle reveals much about its history, residents, medieval weaponry and jurisdiction. The icing on the cake is the unforgettable view over the historic centre of Ghent. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission: adults: €8, 19-26 years: €6, under 19: free. TJAL

Hotel d’Hane-Steenhuyse B-3, Veldstraat 55. This stately building with its rococo frontage is located in the heart of one of Ghent’s most important shopping streets. Although the name Hotel is somewhat misleading, as you cannot stay here any more, the rich past of this building from 1767 is still tangible in every detail. Where the architectural heritage association is now housed, important visitors such as the French king Louis XVIII, Tsar Alexander I of Russia and King William I of the Netherlands once spent the night. The large, octagonal hall is a model of architectural beauty, while the pick of the interiors however is the ballroom, two floors high. In the 1990s the premises were thoroughly renovated, making sure future generations can relive the grandeur of its past. Unfortunately you can only look at the impressive interior a few days each year. J

Masons’ Guild Hall B-3, Sint-Niklaasstraat 2, tel. (+32) 926 92 600, [email protected]. The building opposite St Nicolas’ Church, which now houses the regional tourist office, was drastically reconstructed in 1852 and at the time everyone thought the original façade of the masons’ guildhall was lost with the rebuilding. When the city decided it wanted to show the architecture of guildhalls at the World Expo of 1913, however, a copy of the façade was erected at Graslei. The original masons’ guildhall was once again reconstructed in 1976 and to everyone’s surprise, the gothic façade was found under a thick layer of plasterwork. The restored façade of the building dates from 1526, when masons demonstrated their masonry skills in their own guildhall. At the top of the beautiful stepped gable, six bronze figures that ‘dance with the wind’ can be spotted. For the copy of the façade from 1912, look for the building named Den Enghel at Graslei 8. J

The Aula Academica B-3, Voldersstraat 9. Once you see the audito-rium of Ghent’s University, you will probably consider taking up studying again. Judging from the facade, it’s hard to imagine how glorious the interior is. Entering the lecture hall instantly makes you feel underdressed since it’s more like entering an ancient theatre. The bad thing: the Aula Academica is not open to public. But if you’re lucky, you can usually enter the building without being reprimanded. J

The Castle of Gerald the Devil C-3, Geraard de Duivel-straat 1, tel. (+32) 495 45 36 91, [email protected], www.duivelsteen.be. Few buildings have such a fascinating history as the Castle of Gerald the Devil. The grim fortress was constructed in the early 13th century by the legendary Gerald Vilain, who was the son of the viscount of Ghent and got nicknamed ‘the devil’ due to his dark appearance and black hair. From its construction until 1378, the castle had been inhabited by nobles and knights. After that, the city bought the colossal building and used it for a whole variety of purposes. To sum it up briefly, the castle has been: an orphanage, a monastery, an asylum for the mentally insane, a music academy and a fire station. At the end of the 19th century, the Belgian state bought Gerald the Devil’s castle

In the autumn of 2012, a five year renovation pro-gramme began, intended to renovate and restore the panels of the Lam Gods. The restoration is neces-sary to prevent further hardening of old layers of varnish. The panels will be treated in the Museum of Fine Arts in Ghent in differ-ent stages. Throughout the whole process, the panels of the Lam Gods that are not being restored will re-

main in the Sint-Baafskathedraal for all to admire.

Het Lam Gods



St Bavo’s Cathedral C-3, Sint-Baafsplein, tel. (+32) 926 92 045, [email protected] e, w w w.sintbaafskathedraal.be. Th e Sain t Bavo Cathedral, originally a chapel from 942 buil t for Saint-Jean-Baptiste, is the location where Emperor Charles was baptised. During that pe-riod the church changed from Romanesque to a grand Gothic church. The only remnant of the Romanesque church is the crypt, which is open

to visitors. Despite many gifts from the emperor, the church remained unfinished for 58 years. The Saint Bavo Cathedral houses a number of special art works, including the rococo pulpit by Laurent Delvaux and many sculptures and wood carvings. The high altar dates back to the beginning of the 18th century. The cathedral’s undisputed show piece is the master piece Adoration of the Mystic Lamb (aka Ghent Altarpiece) by the brothers Jan and Hubert van Eyck. The polyptych can be admired in a chapel which has been equipped with a special secured glass cage. An €4 entrance fee is charged for this. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 18:00. Admission: €4, children up to 12 years: €1,50. J

St. James’ Church C-2, Bij Sint-Jacobs, tel. (+32) 922 32 526, www.kerk-in-gent.be. In 1093 a wooden chapel was constructed for pil-grims on the St. James’ Way to Santiago de Com-postella and in the middle of the 12th century, the chapel was replaced by a Romanesque church. St James’ Church was then however reconstructed several times during the Middle Ages and different architectural styles can today be admired. Take for instance the western towers. One of the towers interestingly has a Gothic peak, while the whole western façade was erected in Romanesque style. Local Calvinists destroyed the interior during the 16th century iconoclastic fury and this has been reconstructed in Baroque style. Current highlights of the church include an alter dating from 1657, several 17th century paintings and the tomb of Jan Palfijn, who was an 18th century obstetrician. The church can only be visited on Friday and Saturday mornings, when there is also a flea market on the square in front of the church. QOpen , Fri, Sat 09:30 - 12:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Free admission. JU

St Michael’s Church B-2, Sint-Michielsplein, tel. (+32) 923 42 869, www.cultuurinkerken.be. This Gothic church is a bit overshadowed by its larger brothers dedicated to Saint Nicolas and Saint Bavo, but a visit to Saint Michael’s Church is well worth it. Construction of the church began in 1440 and, due to a variety of political and financial slowdowns, was finally completed 200 years later. The church tower was once planned to be the highest in Flanders, but, due to a lack of funds, never exceeded the current 47 meters and wasn’t roofed until the early 19th

Zwembad Van Eyck C-2 & C-3, Veermanplein 1, tel. (+ 32) 923 52 740, www.gent.be. Zwembad van Eyck is the most monumental bathhouse in Belgium: the history of the eleven tubs, showers, and 68 tiled changing cubicles here go back a hundred years. The roof with glass elements completes the art deco feel of the building. At the start of construction in 1886, Van Eyck was the third bathhouse in Belgium to be built in this style, a trend that had been started in Liverpool in Britain earlier that century. In 2003, the architectural masterpiece got a new entrance. On the first floor, you’ll find the restaurant Au Bain, from which you can enjoy the gorgeous interior of the building. Q Opening times vary depending on school holidays, so check the website. TJLC

ChurchesAugustine Monastery B-1, Academiestraat 1, tel. (+32) 922 51 659, fax (+32) 922 42 033, [email protected], www.osabel.be. Since 1295 the Order of Saint Augustine has been housed in this large monastery and it is still inhabited today by a small community of monks. As the monastery is large and the living community is small, the gorgeous building is frequently rented out by various organisations for exhibitions and conferences. Nevertheless, visitors are welcome to walk around the courtyard and see the monastery’s St Stephen’s church, which became a popular site of pilgrimage thanks to a chapel dedicated to Saint Rita of Cascia. Another treasure is the impressive library, dating from 1720, which can be visited on request or as part of a guided city tour. Like many other monasteries and abbeys in Belgium, the Augustine monastery once brewed its own beer. It is now brewed by Van Steenberge yet by drinking Augustijn you contribute to the restoration works in the monastery. QOpen 07:00 - 12:30 & 14:00-18:30. JHU

Carmelite Monastery A-2, Burgstraat 46, tel. (+32) 922 55 787, [email protected], www.karmel-gent.be. Through the ages, the Carmelite monastery has been a centre of quietness and spirituality. Ghent’s Carmelite monks were known for their particularly strict and sober lifestyle, which is still observed by the current community of nine monks. The monastery basically consists of a large garden surrounded by several buildings, of which only the 18th cen-tury church is open to visitors. But if you kindly ask one of the monks, chances are that you can see the beautiful garden as well. On request, it is even possible to stay at the monastery, though it is only intended for people who are seriously looking for serenity, reflection and quietness. QOpen 07:00 - 11:30 & 14:30-19:00, Sat 07:00 - 11:30 & 14:30-18:00, Sun 09:00 - 11:30 & 14:30-18:00. HUL

St Anne’s Church D-3, Sint-Annaplein 1, tel. (+32) 922 38 009, www.kerk-in-gent.be. In the early nineteenth century, the Het Zuid neigh-bourhood developed rapid l y, causin g a sh a rp p opu la t i on growth in the area. For the increased local population, construction of a new church started in 1853 to replace the small Saint Anne’s chapel. Saint Anne’s church, built in the eclectic Rundbogenstil, was never fully completed, but opened anyway in 1862. The façade was recently renovated and currently renovation works on the western side are tak-ing place. Unfortunately, the church only opens its doors for Sunday mass and is not open for visitors. Q J

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41what to see

Street. The eponymous neighbourhood, roughly between Lievekaai and Prinsenhof, is one of the loveliest areas in Ghent. Try to get lost in the maze of narrow streets, sit down under a willow tree along the Lieve River, look at the statue of Charles V on Prinsenhofplein or walk past a row of step gabled houses on St-Widostraat. During the first weekend of September, Ghent’s largest flea market is held at Prinsenhof.

Rabot A-1, Opgeëistenlaan 1, [email protected], www.rabot.be. This structure was built in the late 15th century and it is one of the few remainders of Ghent’s medieval rampart. The Lieve River that flows underneath Rabot once connected Ghent to the North Sea and it used to be the only entrance for ships into the city. Every boat sailing into Ghent was checked here. Rabot also functioned as a floodgate and 15 square kilometres of land around the city could be flooded in case of an attack. The sluice building was strengthened with the addition of two towers after a failed siege by Maximilian of Austria in 1488. Rabot is there-fore also known as ‘Drie Torekens’, the Three Towers. The building is not open to the public, but a visit is sometimes included in guided city tours. JH

Small Beguinage (Klein Begijnhof) D -4, Lange V io -lettestraat 77-273, tel. (+32) 922 41 790, [email protected], w w w.k l e i n b e g i j n h o f -gent.be. Like the Great Beguinage at S in t -A man d s b er g an d e l even o th er beguinages around Flanders, the small beguinage is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. This serene and religious haven was built around 1240 and was thoroughly reconstructed during the 17th century. Nonetheless, it is one of the best preserved as well as one of the most beautiful beguinages in Flanders. At the centre of this quiet spot stands the baroque Church of Our Lady Ter Hoyen. You can also see two chapels and the gorgeously red beguines’ houses around the central lawn. According to tradition, the gate is closed from 22:00 until 06:30. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00.

Werregarenstraat B -2, Werr egar en -straat. Ask someone from Gh en t for th e Werregarenstraat and they probably have no idea what you’re talk-ing about. I f you ask them for the graffi ti alley, however, they’ll guide you to this alley between Hoogpoor t and Onderstraat. Tour-

ists love to walk through this shady but colourful place where street artists can let themselves go. While graffiti is of course prohibited in Ghent, the city makes a couple of exceptions, and the Werregarenstraat is one of them.

century. Today visitors can admire the bright interior, fea-turing an organ dating from 1817, a gorgeous neo-gothic pulpit and several baroque paintings. Another element is the exceptional amount of memorial tables (Obiit), which demonstrates the large number of wealthy families that once resided in Ghent. The incontestable pride of the church however is the painting ‘Golgotha’, dating from 1630 and executed by Anthony Van Dyck, who was a collaborator of Rubens. QOpen 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Admission: free. JU

Interesting placesBoekentoren (Book Tower) B-4, Rozier 9, tel. (+ 32) 926 43 8 5 1 , l i b s e r v i c e @ugent.be, www.boek-entoren.b e. Lo cals either love or hate this gigantic concrete tower. The colossal, modernist masterpiece of archi-tect Henry Van de Velde was built in the 1930s, when concrete was still a symbol of modernism, and it houses the library

of Ghent University. Over three million books are stored in this 64-metre tall building, which is why it is called the Book Tower. Visitors are welcome, as long as you don’t make too much noise. After all, you are in a library. Take the elevator up to the belvedere and you can enjoy a view over the whole city. In 1992, Boekentoren was given the status of protected monument and the building will be thoroughly renovated from 2012 until 2017. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. UG

Bridge Portus Ganda D-3, Julius de Vigneplein, www.portusganda.be. Ever fancied recreating the most romantic scene in Titanic? You know, the one where Jack and Rose are at the very end of the boat and Rose says: ‘I’m flying!’. Well, at this bridge of Portus Ganda you can do just that. Your view is not the Atlantic Ocean, but the point where the Lys and Scheldt rivers meet. From the bridge is visible the new marina for passing boat traffic and Belgium’s oldest indoor swimming pool, the Van Eyck, which was fully restored in 2001. B

Hof van Ryhove B-2, Onderstraat 22. One of the things we love about Ghent is exploring the city’s many hidden corners. Hof van Ryhove is such a place. Looking at it from Onderstraat you will see a step gable building like many others, but walk through the gate with the green doors and you will enter a delightful medieval courtyard. From the courtyard, the 13th century palace, once inhabited by wealthy nobles, reveals its true magnitude. Hof van Ryhove became quite notorious during Ghent’s Calvinist period in the 16th century, when Catholic Bishops were locked up in the basement by its owner Francois Vander Kethulle, a key political figure at that time. The building currently functions as an office for the city’s administration. J

Prinsenhof A-1 & B-1, Between Prinsenhof and Lieve-kaai. In 1500, Charles V, ruler of the Holy Roman Empire, was born in a huge palace named Hof ten Walle. The palace covered almost the entire present-day neighbour-hood and later became known as Prinsenhof (Princes’ Court). Nowadays, only the ‘Dark Gate’ is left of the palace, which can be found at the northern end of Prinsenhof

© Ghent City Council

www.inyourpocket.com



MIAT (Museum of In-dustrial Archaeology and Textiles) C-1, Min-nemeers 9, tel. (+32) 926 94 200, fax (+32) 923 30 739, [email protected], www.miat.gent.be. During the second hal f of the 18th century, Belgium became the first industrial nation in continental Europe and Ghent was the first city in the country to embrace the new tech-nologies. The city rapidly developed as a major centre for textile production, which brought wealth to town, but also led to a vast transformation of society. The Museum of Industrial Archaeology and Textiles aims to preserve Gh-ent’s industrial heritage and tells the story of this significant period in the history of Belgium. The museum is housed in a former cotton mill and it has three outstanding exhibitions, each on a different floor in the building. Visitors can learn everything about the cotton industry on the third floor. The collection ‘Wereld Wijd Werken’ interactively shows the hardship of ordinary workers and explains the societal changes since the 18th century. The top floor chronologi-cally displays the history of industrialisation and houses the museum’s prime showpiece: the Spinning Jenny textile machine. Detailed information is provided on each floor in Dutch, English, French and German. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €5 for adults, €3.75 for visitors older than 55, €1 for visitors aged 19 - 25, free for children up to 18. TJUK

Museum Arnold Vander Haeghen B-3, Veldstraat 82, tel. (+32) 926 98 460, fax (+32) 926 98 479, [email protected], www.visitgent.be. This build-ing used to be the residence of Joost Clemmen, a wealthy 18th century cotton magnate, and this small museum offers a glimpse at the lifestyle of the richest of inhabitants in industrial-era Ghent. The museum consists of two rooms, while the rest of the building currently functions as an office for the cultural department of the city. One of the two rooms shows a unique Chinese drawing room with hand painted silk wallpaper. According to the curator it’s the only one of its kind in the world and certainly, it reveals that cotton magnates had lots of money to spend. The other room is completely dedicated to Belgium’s only Nobel laureate in literature: Maurice Maeterlinck. This room features a reconstruction of his work chamber, the place where Maeterlinck once wrote his masterpiece L’Oiseau Bleu (The Blue Bird). The museum can only be visited as part of a guided tour and it is advised to book tickets in advance. Tours start at 14.30 on Fridays and Saturdays and it includes a visit to the 18th century Hotel d’Hane-Steenhuyse. QOpen Fri, Sat 14:30 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun. Adults €5, children until 18 years free admission. J

Museum dr. Guislain Jozef Guislainstraat 43, tel. (+32) 921 63 595, fax (+32) 921 63 535, info@museumdr guis la in.b e, www.museumdrguislain.be. The most extraordinary museum in Ghent must be without a doubt the Dr. Guis-lain Museum. In this imposing building, you’ll find everything

concerning the history of psychiatry and mental health care - or rather, the lack of knowledge and scientific proof and arguments in this area, since those who take a good look at

MuseumsDesign Museum Gent B-2, Jan Brey-delstraat 5, tel. (+32) 926 79 999, fax (+32) 922 44 522, [email protected], www.designmuseum-gent.be. The Design Museum mainly offers exhibitions of 20th cen-tur y and modern-day design, although there are some objects from earlier times. The design of the museum in itself makes a visit worthwhile. Behind an 18th century frontage you’ll find a modern and light building which more does the various exhibits justice. There are permanent as well as changing exhibitions. Art-deco and art nouveau lovers can indulge themselves walking through the spacious exhibition rooms. However, the name of this museum is slightly misleading. This is not really a design museum in the wider sense of the word, as the focus is mainly on furniture and home accessories. Nevertheless, it’s defi-nitely worth a visit. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. TJU

Huis van Alijn B-2, Kraanlei 65, tel. (+32) 926 92 350, fax (+32) 926 92 358, [email protected], www.huisvanalijn.be. This delightful and intimate mu-seum, situated in a splendid listed building, offers you a glimpse at the lives of Belgians in the twentieth century. In the distinct rooms, each with its own theme, you can see just how people lived a hundred years ago. Themes such as weddings, births, social life, school and even death are covered in a museum that is a voyage of discovery for small children and a trip down memory lane for older visitors. The museum often has temporary exhibitions. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults: €5, 19-26 years: €1, under 19: free. TJ

Kunsthal Sint-Pietersabdij C-5, Sint-Pietersplein 9, tel. (+32) 924 39 730, fax (+32) 924 39 734, [email protected], www4.gent.be/sintpiet-ersabdij/. Saint Peter’s Abbey is a former Benedictine Abbey from 811 whose buildings are now used by Kunsthal Saint Peter’s Abbey and the De Wereld van Kina museum. It is located on the quiet Saint Peter’s Square on top of the Blandijnberg (Ghent’s highest point). The buildings represent several architectural styles: Gothic, Renais-sance, Roman and Baroque are all evident in buildings oozing history. The venerable Amandus of Ghent com-missioned the building of the abbey in the eighth century. The emperor Charlemagne used the abbey as a defensive position against the Viking invaders in a time when it was surrounded by open countryside. The first earls of Ghent were buried in the abbey grounds. In 1566 the abbey was badly damaged by the Iconoclastic Fury that ravaged the Low Counties, so that only the refectory still remains today. When the last monks were expelled in 1796 the building was subsequently used as a military barracks and up until 1948 it was used as a prison. Nowadays the abbey is used as an art gallery with changing exhibitions and a permanent exhibition on the history of the abbey itself. The Abbey of Our Blessed Lady Saint Peters was originally built in Romanesque style in the twelfth century. The current church that now stands in Baroque style was built in 1651. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admis-sion: adults €5. J




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43what to see

S.M.A.K. Municipal Museum of Contem-porary Art B-6, Cita-delpark, tel. (+32) 924 07 601, [email protected], www.smak.be. The cur-rent Municipal Museum of Contemporary Art (Flem-ish Acronym S.M.A.K.) was established in 1999 and goes back to 1957,

when Karel Geirlandt founded the ‘Association for the Museum of Contemporary Art’, driven by his great ambition to realise an autonomous museum for contemporary expressions in the art world. The exhibition programme is varied. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: adults: €6, 19-26 years: €1,under 19 years: free. PTAULGK

STAM - City Museum Ghent A-5, Godshuizenlaan 2, tel. (+32) 926 71 400, fax (+32) 926 71 498, [email protected], www.stamgent.be. The town’s most modern museum will take you on a journey through eight centuries of Ghent history. In an entertaining and lighthearted manner you will encounter Ghent’s rich history in three different groups of buildings, which are all very attractive. For centuries the former abbey, which houses the STAM, was hidden behind high walls. In the spot where the sick were looked after for 750 years, the cultural soul is now anointed. The old convent buildings, with their roots in the Middle Ages, have been turned into this modern museum in an artistically attractive way. If this is your first visit to the city, you can get truck loads of relevant infor-mation here, which will liven up your visit even more. A gigantic aerial photograph of the city, which is dozens of metres in size and projected onto a mirror floor, is in itself reason enough to visit STAM. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

the information signs will probably feel no more than mere shame for all those poor patients who’ve been guinea pigs in the most horrible, painful and degrading experiments in the name of science. The fascinating exhibition takes you on a global trip through the history of psychiatric care. The buildings themselves are worth a visit. On sunny days, you can take a break from all the commotion and lay yourself down on the large pretty fields of grass in the courtyard here. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission:adults €6, under 26 years €1. Tram 1 starts at the P+R stop at Flanders Expo, goes to Gent Sint-Pietersstation, continues through Korenmarkt and then goes on to Evergem. Make sure you get off at the Guislainstraat stop. LB

Museum of Fine Arts (Museum voor Schone Kunsten) B-6, Fernand Scribedreef 1, tel. (+32) 924 00 700, fax (+32) 924 00 790, [email protected], www.mskgent.be. Seeing the Belgian masters in their country of origin; that’s what makes this Museum of Fine Arts so special. The masterpieces are done full justice in this wonderful building from 1904, which was completely renovated in 2007. The natural light comes through the windows in exactly the right way so you can keep admiring the paintings by Jheronimus Bosch, Pieter Brueghel de Jonge and Frans Hals in all their splendour time and again. Besides art works from the Middle Ages to the first half of the 20th century, there are special exhibitions every year: on the 2nd of March there’s the opening of the Belgian Modernism exhibition.The museum is quite small - don’t expect a Flemish Louvre - but it should not be skipped during your visit to Ghent. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission: €5. TAL

Museum of the History of Medicine B-3, Onderber-gen 1, tel. (+32) 922 30 832, fax (+32) 926 48 396, [email protected], www.ugent.be. Formerly a Dominican monastery, the building just south of St Michael’s church now belongs to Ghent University. The university decided to use part of this building for storing its collection of ancient surgical instruments and some enthusiastic doctors and emeriti turned it into the Museum of the History of Medicine in 1991. The collection includes Roman medical instruments as old as the 1st century A.D., surgical tools from the 18th and 19th century and a copy of Jan Palfijn’s renowned obstetric forceps. The museum can only be visited after making an appointment for a one and a half hour guided tour by a professor, which discouragingly has to be be arranged three weeks in advance. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Museum of the History of Sciences Krijgslaan 281, tel. (+32) 926 44 930, fax (+32) 926 44 973, [email protected], www.sciencemuseum.ugent.be. This small museum at the university campus displays the history of sciences by all types of old scientific instruments. Visitors can see a large collection of micro-scopes, telescopes, topographic instruments, all kinds of laboratory glassware and a massive analogue computer. Attached to the exhibition room is a small library with old scientific works and books about the history of science. Currently, detailed information about the museum pieces is only provided in Dutch, but we were told that descrip-tions in English will come soon. The museum is located in building S-30 on university campus ‘De Sterre’. You can get here by taking tram 1 to ‘Maaltebruggestraat’, from where a short walk will get you to the museum. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00 & 14:00-17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Adults €2.50, students €1.50, visitors under 18 or over 65: free admission. T


22 June 2013 — 6 October 2013

Gideon Kiefer illustratesthe human as ainexhaustiblescienceproject.

Man in the contemperary

art collection ofthe Fondation

Francès.

Jozef Guislainstraat 43, B-9000 Gent

MuseumDr. Guislain


44 what to see shopping

The World of KINA C-5, Sint-Pietersplein 14, tel. (+32) 244 73 73, fax (+32) 244 73 74, [email protected], www.dewereldvankina.be. This museum has been split into two parts at different locations: The House and The Gar-den. The Garden is a beautiful spot with borders full of special plants and a room with information about the world of plants. You should also take a look at the tarantulas. The House is a colourful museum located in wonderful premises and seems very modern at first glance. The way information is provided is somewhat dated, however, and you would expect a museum, particularly one aimed at kids, to offer a bit more interactivity. That doesn’t mean that the large rooms with stuffed animals, the dinosaur skeletons and the Neanderthals have lost any of their appeal since the museum first opened its doors in 1924, however. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:30. Closed Sat. Admission: adults €2,50, between 12-25 years: €1,25, children free till 12 years. TJAL

Parks & GardensAppelbrugparkje B-2, Jan Breydelstraat. Those who are looking for a resting point in the middle of the bustling historic centre can just take a fifteen minute break at the little Appelbrug park. Walk all the way to the water and enjoy the view: on your left the Old Fish Market and your right the Great Butchers’ Hall. J

Baudelopark Baudelostraat. Baudelopark was the first public park in the city. In the 16th century, this was the garden of the Baudelo Abbey and during the French occupation it became a botanical garden (which has now moved to the edge of the Citadelpark). At the beginning of the last century, a street (the Bibliotheekstraat) was constructed in the middle of the park but at the request of the local residents the street has been transformed into a bike and pedestrian path that unites the park once more. Baudelopark includes a playground and a small basketball court, and attracts a young and more alternative public. During the Gentse Fees-ten, this park is a Mecca for dance lovers with workshops in different styles. TJ

Blaarmeersen Sport and Recreation Park Zuider-laan 5-10, www.blaarmeersen.be. Blaarmeersen is 87 hectares of green space. This vast domain - with a gigantic lake - offers numerous recreational activities. It includes an athletics track, an adventure trail, climbing rocks and facilities for minigolf, tennis and volleyball. There are three cafeterias and a camping site with hiker’s huts. At Blaarmeersen, lots of youngsters enjoy the sunny days at the beach area, because

they can take a refreshing dive in the pond or have fun on the water slide. Access to Blaarmeersen is free, although from May to August car-drivers pay an entrance fee of €2.50. T

Bourgoyen-Ossemeersen Nature Reserve Driepik-kelstraat. Bourgoyen-Ossemeersen is a green area just three kilometers from the Castle of the Counts. Here you’ll find 210 hectares of wet grassland full of ditches and streams. Birdwatchers love this place as it is one of the most bird-rich nature reserves in Flanders. In the area, no cyclists are allowed but there are three marked trails of two or five and a half kilometres. One of them takes you along the route of the old railway which was used for the Ghent World Fair of 1913 when visitors could admire this showpiece section of the Belgian railways. Every first Saturday of the month, there is a free guided tour at 14:30. TU

Citadelpark Citadelpark. With its two museums (S.M.A.K and Museum of Fine Arts), a botanical garden, a cast-iron bandstand, an animal shelter and various artworks, Citadel-park is undoubtedly the most versatile park in Ghent. The park was named after the large-scale citadel that was built on the site following the fall of Napoleon. In the park, you can still see caves with remnants of primitive bunkers. As in all other parks in Ghent, mainly students - with or without textbooks - love lying in the grass. Plans are currently being made to renovate the entire park. TJ

Garden of St Peter’s Abbey C-5, Sint-Pietersplein 9, tel. (+32) 924 39 730, [email protected], www.gent.be/sintpietersabdij. Behind St Peter’s abbey lies a lovely green garden with a grass field that, particularly on sunny days, is a tempting place to just lie down for a while. That is exactly what students from the neighbourhood and all sorts of other people do when the sun shines. The garden of the abbey is nicely situated between the former monastery buildings and the Scheldt River. In addition to the lawn, the garden features a vineyard, a small orchard and a herb garden. You could also spot the ruins of the monastery’s infirmary, which adds to the charm of this relaxing spot. Unlike the abbey buildings, the garden is freely accessible. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Keizerpark Brusselsesteenweg. Keizerpark was redevel-oped in 2009 and ever since has been an attractive place, easily accessible thanks to the two bridges. On sunny days local residents and students gather here, and children are more than welcome. The little ones can enjoy themselves in the playground while for older kids there is a skate park and a basketball court. Via the wooden pontoon, anglers have access to the banks of the Scheldt and also those who like to barbecue can live it up here. T

Ghent-Authentic C-3, Keizer Karelstraat 97/201, tel. (+32) 498 109 961, [email protected], www.ghent-authentic.com. Ghent’s cobblestone streets can get to even the most hardy of travelers. One of the best ways to avoid unnecessary walking is therefore to join these local experts. Sightseeing tours in English, French, Dutch and German. Very knowledgeable guides take you beyond the classic sights, and lace their tours with wonderful anecdotes and stories. There are a range of tours to choose from, including Mystic Middle Ages, Ghent by Night and UNESCO Ghent to name just three. Ghent-Authentic can also arrange private, customized tours. J

Sightseeing Tours

Former Dominican friary Het Pand, photo by Reine Ortiz

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45shopping

AntiquesAntiek Depot C-2, Baudelostraat 15, tel. (+32) 477 60 61 99, [email protected], www.antiek-depot.com. Two floors full of furniture, paintings and all kinds of other old stuff. Not everything is antique, some things are just old. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. J

Burkelbloem D-2, Dampoortstraat 92, tel. (+32) 922 34 737. If you happen to get off at Gent-Dampoortstation (the closest station to the city) , and you take the road to the city centre, you will walk by this nice shop filled with antiques and vintage goodies. Want to jump back in time? Here you’ll find the teapot your grandmother used in the 50’s, haircombs from the Interbellum, and all kinds of curiosities of which you never thought you’d encounter them again. QOpen 14:00 - 20:00. J

Design 7 C-2, Nieuwpoort 7, tel. (+32) 485 41 01 49, [email protected], www.design7.be. Frederic Rozier, the brains behind vintage design lovers’ favourite Design Market, is truly passionate about design; this shows as soon as you enter Design7. The gallery carries a unique mix of 50’s, 60’s, 70’s and 80’s design furniture, ranging from cool tables and unique chairs to striking light-ing fixtures and funky cabinets. Originality and affordability are key: to this end, all items can be rented as well. QOpen , Thu 14:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 12:00,14:00-18:00, Sun 11:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. JA

Het Archief C-2, Steendam 110, tel. (+32) 922 35 200, www.het-archief.be. There are many reasons why they opened antique and vintage shop Het Archief. To us the most important is because good design lasts forever and because old things have a soul. Het Archief specializes in old school posters and breathes a homely feeling. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. JA

Bookshops & MediaAtlas & Zanzibar A-5, Kortrijksesteenweg 19, tel. (+32) 922 08 799, www.atlaszanzibar.be. This huge travel shop specialises in maps, atlases, globes and, of course, loads and loads of guides in Dutch and English. Travel lovers could spend days in this temple. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00 & 14:00-18:00. Closed Tue, Sun. Also at: Kortrijksesteenweg 1036, (+32) 937 14 101, closed Tue. TA

Audivox C-4, Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 15, tel. (+32) 922 42 488, [email protected], www.audivox.net. This small bookstore primarily sells English language teaching material for middle school students. You can pick up some classic English novels here, but there is not much on offer besides the Penguin Classics. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. J

Limerick A-6, Koningin Elisabethlaan 142, tel. (+32) 922 21 757. Limerick is one of just a few independent bookshops left in Ghent. This charming place looks like a genuine bookshop is supposed to: tall wooden bookcases crammed with books in all shapes and sizes, from children’s fairy tales to world literature classics. If you happen to dis-cover a hidden treasure at the very top, there’s even a little ladder to help you reach it. Can’t wait to dive into your novel of choice? In the back of the shop, you can take a seat and have a read, while enjoying a cup of freshly brewed tea and a bit of Mozart in the background. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon, Sun. TA

Paard Van Troje Bookshop B-3, Kouter 113-114, tel. (+32) 933 00 883, [email protected], www.paard-vantroje.be. You would really have to come up with a good excuse not to be tempted to pop in Paard van Troje (Trojan horse), a cosy bookshop come bar. Browsing through the stacked shelves, you’ll notice how the owners have tried to steer away from what’s on offer in any other chain bookstore. The selection, which contains of a good number of titles in English, is updated regularly, and you can always expect a few surprises. Bring your kids, as the children’s corner boasts a number of great reads, you could easily get lost in yourself. Music lovers will be equally charmed by an interesting choice of alternative and indie albums. Take your time to make up your mind about what to buy; the owners make a point of letting costumers feel free to browse as long as they like. To be honest, once you’ve decided on which book(s) to take home, you probably won’t want to leave. Grab a table, order the soup of the day (we were pleasantly surprised by the but-ternut squash, parsley, Absolut Black vodka (!) and Tierenteyn mustard soup, served with organic sweet pepper bread) or a tasty baguette, and dive into the latest Murakami, McEwan, or some obscure author you have yet to discover. When the sun’s out, move to the terrace with a pint of refreshing Belgian beer, and enjoy the hustle and bustle of the Kouter square. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. TJAB

Walry B-6, Zwijnaardsesteenweg 6, tel. (+32) 922 29 167, [email protected], www.walry.be. Everyone in Ghent is familiar with book and magazine shop Walry. Recently, the shop has been refurbished, and now has room for an even larger collection of books, with a special focus on (Dutch, Flem-ish, Italian and Spanish) literature, history, philosophy, art and linguistics. The little ones won’t be disappointed by what Walry has in store for them either. While browsing through stacks of great reads, you almost feel as if you’re in the courtyard garden adjacent to the store. But Walry is much more than a bookshop; owner Paul Luyten regularly hosts book launches and signings. And if there’s one place in Ghent where you can have a relaxed, hassle free lunch, it’s Walry’s lunch café. This is where you go to enjoy grandmother’s kitchen at a reasonable price. We tasted the yummy meat balls with pommes dauphinoises and Walry’s take on the iconic Ghent stew, while having a peak at the Marquez we just bought. You can also have breakfast at the café, or dig into a pancake in the afternoon. The no-nonsense cuisine is reflected in the décor, which is equally straightforward, yet pleasant. The real appeal of the place, however, is the hosts, who always offer a warm welcome. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. TA

Papaver in Jan Breydelstraat, photo by Reine Ortiz


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CheeseHet Hinkelspel D-3, Lousbergskaai 33, tel. (+32) 922 42 096, [email protected], www.hethinkelspel.be. This place, where they until recently produced their own cheese (they moved the cheese factory out off Ghent) offers a fine selection of the best cheeses, organic wines, bread and icecream. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00. Closed Sun. TJA

Mekka Koestraat 9, tel. (+32) 922 58 366. This shop is situated near Kouter-square, in a part of Ghent that re-sembles Paris. The cheese here is artisanal, and the owners go to Paris (Rungis) once a week to buy their cheese on the market there. Their specialities are goat cheese and farmers’ cheese. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

DelicaciesAula B-3, Voldersstraat 24, tel. (+32) 922 50 514, [email protected], www.slagerij-aula.com. Named after the Aula, the grand Ghent University auditorium across the street, the Aula butcher’s and delicatessen, Ghent’s famous food shop, is a feast for eyes and tastebuds alike. If you don’t fancy preparing something at home, you can have a quick bite to eat among the colourful produce, at the Aula Toog. Simply grab a white leather stool at the bar, which surrounds the open kitchen, and take your pick. Good luck deciding between all the sandwiches, soups, salads, pastas and meat dishes on offer. A team of chefs prepares everything on the spot. We were pleasantly surprised by the rich chicken salad, and immediately bought the ingredients right then and there to try and emulate the chefs’ creation. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. ZJA

Belartisan B-3, Ajuinlei 14, tel. (+32) 922 57 330, [email protected], www.belartisan.com. On the lookout for original and delicious Belgian products, to delight friends at home with? You will be amazed to discover the great variety of tasty treats Belartisan has in store. Apart from the obvious assortment of chocolates and beers, we were especially surprised by Belgian Owl, a single malt whisky, made in Belgium. Furthermore, the shop offers a wide variety of (sparkling) wines, Ghent’s very own signature liqueur Roomer and more jams than you can think of. If you’re lucky, you can attend a tasting session, which the friendly owners have regularly. We challenge anyone to have a sip of real Ghent ‘jenever’, and turn down a second one. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:30 - 13:30. Closed Tue, Wed. TJA

Bernard Junior A-6, Koningin Elisabethlaan 43, tel. (+32) 922 24 820. If you’re on the hunt for an excellent bottle of wine, Bernard’s the place to go. Loved by wine lovers all over Ghent because of the wide selection of wines and spir-its - and by most Ghent children because of the life-size white horse welcoming you at the entrance - Bernard’s wine shop is a must-see, if only for the grand town house it’s located in. Moreover, Bernard caters to any budget: after a day out in Ghent, we were left with just five euros to spend, but the affable owner suggested what turned out to be a wonderful bottle of red to accompany our pasta dish - we even left with some change! QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

Boxy B-3, Hoornstraat 13, tel. (+32) 923 34 535, [email protected], www.boxyfinefoods.be. A delicates-sen which uses ‘Variety is the spice of life. That gives it all its flavour’ as its tagline promises to offer a great diversity of delicious dishes. Boxy Fine Foods delivers just that, and more. In a striking white 19th century townhouse near the river, brothers Stefan and Kristof Boxy have managed to build

a little gourmet’s paradise. From simple soups and salads to Ghent specialties, everything is fresh, of the highest quality and presented with great attention to detail. Prepare to be tempted by fragrant spices, fine wines, and even kitchen accessories. At Boxy Fine Foods you do spend a little more, but this luxurious experience will get any foodie going. QOpen 10:30 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAS

Mobile Liquor Store C-2, Ham 31, tel. (+32) 922 534 13, [email protected], www.mobileliquor-store.be. In need of a nice bottle of wine, or you want to get that exclusive bottle of Zacapa rum from Guatemala? In this shop you’ll find a nice selection of wines, sparkling wines and liquors. The street where it’s located at, has nothing in particular to offer, but their selection of drinks and the friendly service is worth the detour. QOpen Mon 11:00 - 19:00, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 13:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. JA

Tierenteyn-Verlent B-2, Groentenmarkt 3, tel. (+32) 922 58 336, [email protected], www.tierenteyn-verlent.be. Mustard speciality shop Tierenteyn is situated in a listed building and the family’s love for tradi-tion has left everything in this shop the way it used to be. The famous mustard is prepared behind closed doors in the cellar according to traditional methods dating back to 1790. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Trattoria della mamma Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 36, tel. (+32) 923 41 701, [email protected], www.trattoriadellamamma.be. Close to Ghent’s favourite café, Vooruit, you will find the Italian delicatessen Trattoria della Mamma. If you feel like preparing an Italian feast at home, you can select your favourites from an ever-changing assortment of pastas, desserts, salads, cheeses, wines, sauces, meats and sausages and other antipasti. For a quick lunch on the go, there are plenty of delicious sandwiches (try the vegetarian panini!) to choose from. Those with a little more time to spend can have lunch on the spot. The generous pasta dishes are all reasonably priced and served with freshly baked Italian bread. The fettucini with salsiccia (Italian sausage) and gorgonzola cheese and the rich tiramisu are worth a mention. A no nonsense, homely place to escape the hustle and bustle of the shopping streets, especially with a lovely glass of red. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30, Mon 11:30 - 18:30. Closed Sun. TJAKS

FashionCafé Costume C-3, Brabantdam 135, tel. (+32) 922 56 323, [email protected]. If you just cannot find the perfect fitted jacket in retail stores, at Café Costume you can simply make it yourself: at this stylish store men are encour-aged to design their ideal tailor made suit from scratch. From the fit and the fabric, to the buttons and pockets - everything is tailored ‘à la carte’, while you sit banck and sip on some champagne. The experienced staff will help you along, aiming to make any man look his best. A word of warning: Looking that good does come at a price! For film buffs out there: the shop features in Flemish hit movie ‘The Broken Circle Breakdown’ as actrice’s Veerle Baetens’ tattoo shop! QOpen Tue, Wed 09:30 - 18:00, Thu 09:30 - 19:00, Fri 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. A

Cream B-2, Hoogpoort 9, tel. (+32) 922 40 085, [email protected], www.cream.be. Cream caters mainly to younger fashion addicts out there: the items on offer are usually dif-ferent, hip, and up-to-date. In one of the largest multi-brand boutiques in Ghent, both boys and girls can have their pick of fashionable brands such as Sessun, Eleven Paris, Carhartt, Wesc, Ben Sherman, Only, Nudie Jeans, Alprausch, Cheap

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Monday, and Junk de Luxe, while listening to the in-store DJ’s beats. There’s also a great selection of accessories on offer (frisbees, skateboards, headphones), as well as some trendy sneakers. If you want more, check out Cream’s ‘older brother’ Limits, for even more skate wear. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA6

Cube B-3, Onderbergen 34, tel. (+32) 922 57 380, fax (+32) 922 55 674, [email protected], www.cube-menswear.be. Men in need for a tailored suit no longer need to travel to Milan, London or Paris. Fashionable guys with (a little) cash to spend from as far as Amsterdam pay Cube, situated across from the historic Het Pand, a visit. The store sells high end brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchi, Dsquared², and Lanvin. The building, in which the shop takes up the ground floor, is impressive in itself. Inside, the recently finished black and white interior makes just browsing an experience. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. PJA

Elle et Gand C-2, Jan Palfijnstraat 36, tel. (+32) 923 42 333, www.elleetgand.be. Elle et Gand is a cute little shop in a beautiful corner building tucked away from the bustle. The collection of shoes and clothes from Scandinavion brands and young Belgian designers, is girly. And so are the pillows, jewellery and little artworks they sell here. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J6L

Eva Bos C-3, Vlaanderenstraat 66, tel. (+32) 495 49 61 64, [email protected], www.evabos.be. Two things on the outside of this store give away what you shop for at Eva Bos: gold and cocktail glasses. When you need a party dress and matching accessories, get here. QOpen Tue, Wed 10:30 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 14:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA6U

Humør B-3, Bennesteeg 19/21. Humør is an ecological concept store, linked to the Rewind shop. On offer are top Scandinavian fashion and interior design, all produced with Mother Nature in mind. Unique to the store are the homemade lighting fixtures. Humør also serves as a place for upcom-ing designers to showcase their products in a specially designated ‘shop in shop’. For wine lovers out there: once a month, on Sundays, you can attend winetastings in the store’s outdoor bar. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30. Closed Tue. First Sunday of the month: open from 11:00 - 18:00 JA

Kollektie Eva-Stoffen Janssens B-2, Korenlei 5, tel. (+32) 923 39 445, [email protected], www.kollektie-eva.be. This is how it works: Kollektie Eva is a small selection of prototype dresses from designer Eva Janssen. You pick one, Eva measures your size, and together

you select the most suitable fabrics from the shop and in two weeks you will have a highly exclusive dress. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Mon by appointment. Closed Sun. JA

La Fille d’O A-2, Burgstraat 21, tel. (+32) 933 48 010, lafilledo.com. Murielle Scherre has a thing with women, she not only makes women friendly porn but also (and maybe more importantly) women friendly underwear. La Fille d’O tries to redefine the very alphabet of lingerie-making. As she spells it out herself :La Fille d’O = Libertine. Ani-mal. Footloose. Indulgent. Legendary. Long-term. Electric. Determined. Oddly overwhelming. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Les Filles et Les Chiens C-3, Zuidstationstraat 9, [email protected], www.lesfillesetleschiens.be. This ‚fashion concept store’ is for both ladies&gentlemen (not only for girls and dogs, as the shop’s name might mislead you), the nice sellers offer you a cup of tea, while you’re sniffing around the clothes, jewelry, T-shirts, shoes and nice gadgets. The interior of the shop itself is already worth the visit : this building used to be an old hotel, and is decorated with 18th C frescoes and paintings. The shop is open on a Sunday, which is great for the shopaddicts among us. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. JA

Maaike Kleedt A-2, Zuivelbrugstraat 8, tel. (+32) 933 55 840. Maaike, Maaike kleedt’s owner, has long been a fan of Scandinavian fashion. Her unique (and crooked!) corner store, near Ghent’s charming Patershol, sells pure, feminine clothes by mainly Swedish and Danish designers. Luxurious items, but with an ecological twist: that is what Maaike is going for. Swedisch brand Dagmar and Danish brand Costum made are but a few examples of this ‘eco luxury’ trend. If you’re into beauty products, Maaike kleedt also carries the Odd Molly beauty collection - if it’s good enough for Helena Christensen, it’s good enough for us! FYI: The shop’s interior was designed by Jan Hoet Jr., son of Jan ‘Ghent’s king of contemporary art’ Hoet. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

Mieke C-2, Baudelostraat 23, tel. (+32) 933 07 144, [email protected], www.mieke.tv. Mieke claims to cater for ‘every woman’. This pretty shop, owned by the eponymous trendwatcher Mieke De Winter, seems to be well on its way to make that statement come true. De Winter is constantly browsing the web looking for creative designers from all over the world. Hence, the ever changing collection. Keep an eye out for truly original clothing brands such as Niche, Eucalyptus and Friday On My Mind. The accessories (necklaces, buttons, hair pins) make for wonderful presents. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. JA


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Mis-en-plis B-2, Hoogpoort 31, tel. (+32) 486 80 45 29, [email protected], www.mis-en-plis.be. All primary colors are represented at Mis-en-Plis. If not in the form of a cool retro dress or skirt, then in one of the leather bags. 100 per cent Belgian, 100 per cent cool. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. JA

Modesalon Seraphine B-2, Hoogpoort 30, tel. (+32) 923 40 237, [email protected], www.mod-esalonseraphine.be. At Seraphine you don’t just browse the racks, you’re getting dressed by one of the stylists. And they’re willing to devote hours to you. Or days if you need a complete make-over... QOpen 11:00 - 18:15, Fri 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Sun. JA

Rewind C-4, St-Pietersnieuwstraat 13 & 44, tel. (+32) 932 48 404, [email protected], www.rewindstore.be. Lovers of exclusive and high quality designer labels should pay Rewind a visit. Two Rewind stores across the road from each other cater to either men or women. The focus lies mainly on Scandinavian brands. The collections on offer are quite different, at times playful and always unique. Don’t forget to check out the accessories: the sunglasses, rings and necklaces make for great presents, for you or your loved ones. And: your (undoubtedly many) purchases won’t break the bank either. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30, Mon 14:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun.

Suite B-2, Hoogpoort 59, tel. (+32) 923 38 391, [email protected], www.suite-gent.be. Suite is a neat fashion store for elegant ladies who can afford themselves the pieces of Flemish designers and brands like Acne. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PJA6U

Zoot B-2, Serpentstraat 8, tel. (+32) 923 37 075, [email protected], www.zootcostumiers.be. Cute, arty and colourful, that’s what the dresses, shoes and jewellery at Zoot are. Situated in a lovely, small street, but it will guarantee you heaps of shopping fun. Also check out the Zoot shoestore at Hoogpoort. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JAU

For childrenBach C-4, Lammerstraat 7, tel. (+32) 922 57 813. In this store parents can find everything for their kids, from giant rabbits to postcards. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30. Closed Sun. TJA

Krat C-3, Keizer Karelstraat 144-150, tel. (+32) 922 36 188, www.krat.be. Since 1997 this shop has been a favourite of local children. The owner is the driving force behind this colourful children’s paradise, where all goods are made from natural materi-als. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. TJL

Petit Bazaars B-2, Oudburg 13, tel. (+32) 922 33 699, www.petitbazaar.be. Online, Petit Bazaar already had a crowd of fans. Especially for them Ghent opened a boutique where you can find a selection of goods for babies and children from five different web shops every month. The graphically awesome fabrics of Koekepeertje and the nostalgic items of Whoost can also be found here. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. JA6

Gifts & SouvenirsAchter de Maan B-3, Sint-Niklaasstraat 1, tel. (+32) 923 32 891, fax (+32) 934 93 402, www.achterdemaan.com. Vintage in all its glory can be found at this centrally located shop. Two stores full of bags, jewellery and other colourful items. Also modern kitchen stuff. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. A

Au Bon Marché B-3, Hoornstraat 4, tel. (+32) 926 90 260, www.aubonmarchegent.be. Where to look first in this wood-dominated shop full of things you don’t really need? Just go with the flow of the Cuban music, breathe in the smell of leather and chat along with one of the shop’s relaxed girls. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. JA

Rouge et noir Hoogpoort 19, tel. (+32) 477 32 04 71, www.rougenoir.be. In this little shop, you’ll find small decorative objects in red and black, and if you look hard enough, also some small objects in white, all wrapped up in nice paper if you ask the friendly owner to do so. Ideal as a gift, or why not as a little treat for yourself? QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. JA

The Fallen Angels B-2, Jan Breydelstraat 29-31, tel. (+32) 922 39 415, [email protected], www.the-fallen-angels.com. If you walk in this small street, this shop is one not to be missed! If you don’t find a nice gift for your mother-in-law or your brother here, then you won’t find it anywhere else... There are 2 shops, next to one another, one is more specialised in antique toys, posters and more to your vintage likings, the other one has modern versions of vintage goodies. Their own collection of postcards is a big must. Flying outside with our bags filled to the brim, we feel a bit like leaving paradise. QOpen 11:00 - 12:00, 13:00-17:45. Closed Sun. The shop specialised in antiques is closed on Mondays, Tuesdays & Sundays, and only open between 13:30 -18:00 JA

Home & GardenA puur A B-3, Onderbergen 56, tel. (+32) 922 30 241, apuura.com. This shop offers a fine selection of bags, shoes, interior design and they recently added a new line of clothes : Katrien Buyle, owner of the shop, designs clothes herself, and they also sell Aiayu (a Bolivian brand), Momoni (Italian), Humanoid (Netherlands). QOpen 10:00 - 12:30, 13:30-18:00. Closed Sun. JA

Bijhuis C-3, Sint-Baafsplein 66, tel. (+32) 922 37 084, [email protected], www.bijhuis.be. The wide collection of designer household/kitchen stuff and accessories they sell at Bijhuis is nice but not unique for a shop of this kind. But not every gift shop can say that it’s situated in a 13th Century cellar with columns though. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JA6

Huiszwaluw B-2, Hoogpoort 3B, tel. (+32) 923 32 737, [email protected], www.huiszwaluw.com. Huiszwaluw is the kind of shop where you buy more than you were planning to. It’s not your fault, the slick design and colourful prints of their interior products, wallpapers and baby goods are simply irresistible. Huiszwaluw is specialised in Scandinavian brands Rice, Ferm, Housedoctor as well as some local handbag&jewelry&paperware designers. It’s not about not being able to spot the right present here, it’s all about making the hard decision which present would score the best. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. TJA

Kelim Gent Kraanlei 3, tel. (+32) 922 43 834, [email protected], www.kelimgent.be. Herman Vermeulen, who started this shop, was the first person who introduced the Kelim carpets in Ghent, he made his job out of this hobby, and soon he was known as an expert not only in Kelims from Turkey, Iran and the Caucasus, but also in raffia textile from Congo. Herman Vermeulen passed away sadly enough in 2003, but his friendly wife Nadine Engels runs the shop now, with a lot of enthusiasm and knowledge. QOpen Fri, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. JA

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Jewellery & WatchesBouverne Bijouterie C-3, Kortedagsteeg 37-39, tel. (+32) 922 39 572, fax (+32) 922 40 887, www.bouverne.be. Since 1976 Bouverne Bijouterie has been selling, producing and repairing jewellery and watches. A wide selection of top watch brands and fine jewellery can be found in this stylish shop. Famous brands of the Swiss watch industry as well as exclusive names of the Italian, Swiss and French jewellery are present. When you visit you can expect perfect service. Bouverne is also the only official Rolex dealer for Ghent and around. The after-sales service on site is recognized by themain brands. Highly recommended. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Mon 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JAL

Elisa Lee - Glasjuweel B-2, Hoogpoort 33, tel. (+32) 932 90 878, [email protected], www.elisa-lee.be. Funny, colourful and fairylike. Wandering around Elisa Lee’s jewellery shop is like strolling through a fantasy forest. Be-sides being a jewellery designer and goldsmith, Elisa is also a passionate glass blower. Check her website too. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. JA

M.A.R.T.H.A B-3, Onderbergen 19, tel. (+32) 933 06 640, [email protected]. When strolling through up-and-coming Mecca for luxury goods Onderbergen, it is hard to simply walk past M.A.R.T.H.A’s colourful window dis-play. The lovely little shop sells a diverse collection of trendy yet affordable necklaces, earrings, rings, scarves, hats, and bags, in a range of striking colours. Just go in with your favourite colour in mind and try to narrow down your choices. Still not sure? The friendly owner offers style and colour advice as well. QOpen 10:00 - 12:30, 13:30-18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. J

Phulkari B-2, Jan Breydelstraat 40, tel. (+32) 922 51 895, [email protected], www.phulkari.be. If you can’t afford to take the plane to India, but you just love Indian jewerly, this nice shop is the place to be! They don’t only sell jewelry, but also clothes, scarves and tissues, if you’re handy enough to sew your own clothes. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.

Zahia C-3, Beverhoutplein 13, tel. (+32) 923 36 220, [email protected], www.zahia.be. Looking for a truly unique piece of jewellery? At Zahia, you are encouraged to simply make it yourself. This charming store carries a diverse collection of ethnic and glass beads, gemstones and clasps in all shapes and sizes, all at reasonable prices, to help you on your way. High time to get started then! If you feel like you might be needing some help, the shop offers a range of workshops. Besides the colourful necklaces, rings, bracelets and ornaments, you can discover Asian, Moroccan and Chinese antiques displayed on Zahia’s many shelves. Tip: Zahia is conveniently situated on a cozy square near Sint-Jacobs, where you can browse the weekly flea/antiques market. QOpen 10:30 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00. Closed Sun. JA

LingerieBelgrado C-3, Henegouwenstraat 83, tel. (+32) 923 30 184, [email protected], www.belgradobodywear.be. Men with style buy their underwear, beachwear and homewear at Belgrado, a small homely shop full of indulgences for men. QOpen 11:00 - 18:30. Closed Wed, Sun. PJA

Lineos C-3, Henegouwenstraat 47, tel. (+32) 923 32 433, www.lingerie-lineos.com. Cool retro style shop with ultra feminine underwear, swimwear from designers with style. The house poodle completes the look of the shop. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. JA6

Sensi B-2, Hoogpoort 3, tel. (+32) 933 00 327, [email protected], www.sensiwear.com. Al though Sensi is a shop for fine lingerie, beach and bodywear, there’s quite an erotic atmosphere whirling through it. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed, Sun. PJA6

Music shopsMusic Mania C-4, St-Pietersnieuwstraat19, tel. (+32) 477 77 07 43, fax (+32) 477 43 62 13, [email protected], www.musicmaniarecords.com. A record shop as it was meant to be. You could easily spend hours browsing through the classic vinyl records, with everything from AC/DC to Miles Davis. In case you don’t own a record player, you could either get one here or just browse through the CDs. QOpen 11:30 - 18:30. Closed Mon, Sun. J6

Music Zombi C-3, Keizer Karelstraat 21A, [email protected], www.musiczombi.com. A music shop selling only vinyl? This is the place to come. The sales person isn’t really a zombie - he’s actually very friendly - so where the name of his shop comes from beats us, but the selection of vinyl is great. QOpen 11:30 - 18:30. Closed Mon, Sun.

Antique, flea and second hand market C-2, Sint-Jacobs and Beverhoutplein. If you’re a bargain hunter or like your interiors to be vintage, then go hunt-ing on the square in front of the Sint-Jacobs church on Friday, Saturday or Sunday morning. The atmosphere is good and there are enough cafes along the market where you can take a break and think of a haggling strategy for that great find you just made. QOpen Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu. J

Flower Market B-3, Kouter. At the Kouter, market venders sell fresh cut flowers or plants on a daily basis. On Sunday however, the flower market is larger and more alive. Families, couples or anyone who loves some early liveliness comes here to buy flowers or just have a cup of Illy coffee at the coffee caravan La Dolce Barista. To start your Sunday with some flair, go to De Blauwe Kiosk (the blue kiosk) on the other side of the square. This oyster and aperitif bar serves oysters with wine, cava or champagne on Saturday (11:00-14:00) and Sunday (11:00-16:00). Between April and September, the plaza gets even more animated with an orchestra in the band-stand (10:30-12:00). QOpen 07:00 - 13:00. JL

Second hand book market B-3, Ajuinlei & Recol-letenlei. For a couple of years now the book stand holders at Ajuinlei and Recolletenlei have been trying to create a sort of Paris on the Lys. Passer-bys or book lovers stroll between the narrow tray tables covered with (mainly) second hand books, posters, comics and vinyl records. Whether you will be able to find the purchase of your life here is questionable, but it’s definitely worth the walk on a sunny Sunday morning. QOpen Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat. J

Vrijdagmarkt B-2 & C-2, Vrijdagmarkt. Sundays the Vrijdagmarkt transforms into a giant pet shop. Fish, birds, rabbits and other animals are patiently waiting for a new owner while traditional bagpipe players take care of the music. Popular with elderly people and families with kids. QOpen Sun 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat. TJ

Markets


50 shopping direCtory

Shoes, Sneakers & StreetwearCatwalk C-3, Vlaanderenstraat 116, tel. (+32) 933 09 174, [email protected], www.catwalk-gent.be. A must-visit if you’re on the lookout for your new favourite pair of (party) shoes. From a small monumental pawn Catwalk sells extremely feminine footwear, all made of quality leather. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Mon 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA6

Imagine C-3, Henegouwenstraat 46, tel. (+32) 922 37 525, www.imaginegent.be. Imagine you would have an infinite amount of money. Imagine you live in Ghent. Imagine a small shop full of sexy designer shoes... We would see you here a lot. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00, Mon 13:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PJA6

Obius B-2, Meerseniersstraat 4, tel. (+32) 923 38 269, [email protected], www.obius.be. In a pretty street on the Vrijdagmarkt Obius sells shoes, tops, bags and perfumes from big name designers. QOpen 10:30 - 18:30, Mon 13:30 - 18:30. Closed Sun. JA6

Touché C-3, Brabantdam 56, tel./fax (+32) 923 31 422, [email protected], www.touche-gent.be. Both men and women can find shoes of their taste in this new fresh shoe shop. When you’re trying on your possible new shoes on the apple green sofa and the attendant is sitting there with you, you feel instantly at home. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA

Speciality shopsBietini Design C-3, Brabantdam 88 & 90, tel. (+32) 923 43 120, [email protected], www.bietinidesign.be. Trend watchers feel at home in this well equipped shop with lots of stuff for a modern home, like wooden furniture and lamps. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JAL

Candela Verlichting Antwerpsesteenweg 1066a, [email protected], www.candela-verlichting.be. Modern and traditional lighting is available in this well designed shop. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00 & 13:30-18:30, Sat 10:00 - 12:00 & 13:30-18:00. Closed Tue, Sun. AL

Hadhi C-3, Brabantdam 53, tel. (+32) 470 09 67 20, [email protected], www.hadhi.be. Home of ethnic crafts and ceramics from Colombia. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00, Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JAL

Oxfam wereldwinkel C-4, Lammerstraat 16, tel. (+31) 922 34 602, www.oww.be. This organisation of shops in Vlaanderen is run by volunteers who believe strongly in sup-porting vulnerable workers in Third World countries by giving them fair compensation for products like toys, clothing and jewellery. QOpen 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Sun. TJA

Tierenteyn-Verlent B-2, Groentenmarkt 3, tel. (+32) 922 58 336, [email protected], www.tierenteyn-verlent.be. Mustard speciality shop Tierenteyn is situated in a listed building and the family’s love for tradi-tion has left everything in this shop the way it used to be. The famous mustard is prepared behind closed doors in the cellar according to traditional methods dating back to 1790. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J

Timmermans 1845 B-2, Kortemunt 5, tel. (+32) 922 33 257, fax (+32) 922 38 271, [email protected], www.timmermans1845.be. If you want a man to feel special, buy him one of the prestigious gifts from Timmer-man. In their unique, listed 17th-century building you’ll find the

biggest pen collection in Belgium. Leather goods are another specialty here. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JA

Twiggy C-3, Notarisstraat 3, tel. (+32) 922 39 566, [email protected], www.twiggy.be. Great selection of Belgian designers, no need to take the Thalys to Paris! Here you’ll also find trendy French designers, with a wide selection from cheap to more expensive. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Wed, Sun. A6U

Tea & Coffee shopsSimon Lévelt B-2, Kleine Vismarkt 5, tel. (+32) 923 42 059, fax (+32) 923 42 060, [email protected], www.simonlevelt.nl. Tea and coffee from all over the world, most of it is organic and has a fair trade label. The person behind the counter will be happy to give advice about the best way to prepare each type of tea or coffee, in case you have no idea! QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. J

Chocolaterie Van Hoorebeke B-2, Sint-Baaf-splein 15, tel. (+32) 922 10 381, (+32) 922 42 510, [email protected], [email protected], www.chocolatesvanhoorebeke.be. Criticizing an institute like the chocolate shop of Hoorebeke won’t be appreciated by many people in Gh-ent, since this family business has two locations in the city and is known for what are called the ‚most delicious chocolate bonbons in Ghent, maybe in the whole of Flan-ders’. The shop at the Sint-Baafsplein even has an open workshop place where, like a true voyeur, you can watch in awe and be tantalized by these chocolate artists. Yet we found that, even after a few visits, the quality of the handmade bonbons and pralines was not as it should be. And that’s disappointing considering you’re paying a ridiculously high price for any of the beautifully displayed ‚artworks’ in this Ghent temple of sweets. There’s also a second shop with a beautiful range of sweets at Jan Breydelstraat 1. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. PAU

Joost Arijs C-3, Vlaanderenstraat 24, tel. (+32) 933 62 310, [email protected], www.joostarijs.be. This place was awarded in the prestigious Gault&Millau for best patisserie in Belgium, need we say more? Their pralines, macarons, biscuits, tarts and even ice cream are heavenly! Don’t skip this one. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.

Temmerman B-2, Kraanlei 79, tel. (+32) 922 40 041. You shouldn’t eat too much of the sweet Ghent specialties from Temmerman. If you do, you won’t be able to move around anymore in this pretty, tiny shop full of old fashioned sweets. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. J

Yuzu C-4, Walpoortstraat 11a, tel. (+32) 473 96 57 33, [email protected]. Nicolas Vanaise used to be a historian, and changed his professional career and dived into the history of chocolates instead. Served in nice, yellow boxes, no one is able to resist these square chocolates filled with tobacco, mustard, cheese, olive oil or even Ghent specialities : Roomer and Ganda ham. Definitely a must-go and a must-taste; this place. And if you’re there, ask the owner why his shop was named Yuzu, he will happily explain. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

Sweets

shopping


51direCtory

Hairdressers & BarbersCoiffure Rassahaert & zoon C-4, Lammerstraat 18, tel. (+32) 922 57 134. This has been a good place to get a decent haircut since, well, God knows when. No appointment needed, just head in an take your place in one of the stylish, old-fashioned chairs. Men only. QOpen 08:00 - 17:45, Sat 08:00 - 16:45. Closed Mon, Sun. Haircut: €13,50. JCut Paste&Paint B-3, Onderbergen 43, tel. (+32) 922 44 120, www.cutpastepaint.be. Hairdresser and make-up artist Lieve Michiels and her team do hair, make-up and much much more. Dreadlocks, braids, extensions, a perm or a fancy do à la Grace Kelly: you name it, they do it. Michiels uses mainly Tigi hair products and Make-up Studio cosmetics, as these are not tested on animals. Looking great and being kind to Mother Nature at the same time: a win-win situation. Word to the wise: The groovy salon has a great many fans in Ghent, so always book your appointment well in advance. QOpen Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 09:30 - 18:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. JDe Cliént Walpoortstraat 4, tel. (+32) 932 99 441, [email protected], www.declient.be. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. ADon y Doña Sluizeken 31, tel. (+32) 922 51 236, [email protected], www.dondona.be. If not for your hair, then at least go there to look at the art stuff in their window. Love it! QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Thu 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. AGino’s Hairclub Dampoortstraat 28, tel. (+32) 922 38 733, [email protected]&D kapper C-4, Wilsonplein 1, tel. (+32) 923 37 575, younganddynamickapsalon.be. At three different places in Ghent you can find these modern salons. This one is conve-niently located at the entrance/exit doors of the Gent Zuid mall. Haircuts from €26. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Mon 10:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sun. PTJA

BanksBNP Paribas Fortis B-3, Zonnestraat 2, tel (+32) 2 762 20 00. QOpen 09:00-16:00, Sat 09:00-12:00, Closed Sun.Europabank Burgstraat 170, tel. (+32) 922 47 311, [email protected], www.europabank.be. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Thu 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.ING Bank Antwerpsesteenweg 37, tel. (+32) 921 88 100, fax (+32) 921 88 108, www.ing.be.SG Bank De Maertelaere Rijsenbergstraat 148, tel. (+32) 924 22 222, fax (+32) 924 22 244, www.sgbdm.be.

Spas & BeautyBeauty Queen B-2, Donkersteeg 22, tel. (+32) 933 62 451, [email protected], ww.beauty-queen.be. ‘Beau-tique’ Beauty Queen is one of Ghent’s few city spas. Prepare to be pampered with pedicures, manicures, facials etc. This is a (girly) bit of heaven, tucked away in the Donkersteeg. If you want to continue the beauty fest in your own bathroom, Beauty Queen carries a wide range of products for you to take home. The owners make a point of selecting brands that you wouldn’t normally find in Belgium, such as Principessa, Bombay Duck, Face Boutique, and Cake. Still unsure after having browsed the shelves? The friendly staff will quickly help you find the products that suit you best. QOpen Mon 12:00 - 18:30, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 18:30. Closed Tue, Sun. JADDosha B-3, Mageleinstraat 10, tel. (+32) 922 12 318, [email protected], www.dosha.be. Dosha offers a wonderfully relaxing escape from reality: beauty through harmony, is what this beauty parlour strives for. Facials and massages, hair

DentistsBriteSmile Specialist Curesthetics.be Tan-darts Suda Marleen Kortrijksesteenweg 724, tel. (+32) 922 20 603, [email protected], www.curesthetics.be.Tandarts G. Decarnière B-2, Sint-Michielsplein 9A, tel. (+32) 922 42 473, [email protected], www.guy.decarniere.mijntandarts.be. Only by appointment, which should be made by phone.

DoctorGeneral Practitioner Tel. (+32) 923 65 000. For the GP on duty, ring (+32) 923 65 000. For emergencies during the day, ring 112. QOpen 19:00 - 08:00.

HospitalsAZ Sint Lucas B-1, tel. (+32) 922 46 111, www.azstlucas.be. This hospital is located in the city centre. For emergencies ring (+32) 922 455 50.Ghent University Hospital De Pintelaan 185, tel. (+32) 933 22 111, fax (+32) 933 23 800, [email protected], www.uzgent.be.

PharmaciesApotheek De Belie C-4, Lammerstraat 37, tel. (+32) 922 52 039, [email protected], www.apotheekdebelie.be. QOpen 08:30 - 18:15, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JApotheek Reep C-3, Reep 44, tel./fax (+32) 922 39 411, [email protected], www.apo-theekreep.be. QOpen 08:30 - 13:00 & 14:00-18:30. Closed Sat, Sun. JApotheek Van Gansbeke B-2, Kortemunt 6, tel. (+32) 922 32 708, fax (+32) 922 39 856, [email protected], www.aposite.be/ev-rard9000. QOpen 09:30 - 18:30, Wed 11:30 - 18:30. Closed Sun. J

Health

removal treatments and colour analyses, everything is done with the principles of ayurvedic medicine in mind. Moreover, the beauticians solely make use of all-natural Aveda products and cosmetics. You can also customize the plant-based products by adding essential oils, which are beneficial to your specific skin type. A dreamy getaway, right in the city centre. QOpen 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. JASauna Aqua Azul B-1, Drongenhof 2, tel. (+32) 922 50 957, [email protected], www.aqua-azul.be. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. JADSauna Raj Corduwaniersstraat 4, tel. (+32) 922 33 732, www.saunaraj.be. QOpen , Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri 17:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. D

Dry cleanersVita Shop Kortrijksesteenweg 598, tel. (+32) 922 27 666.

€1= GBP £0.85; US$1.30 (2 June 2013)


52 direCtory

LaundrettesWasbar B-4, Nederkouter 109, tel. (+32) 485 42 34 32, [email protected], www.wasbar.be. Looking for a laundrette, music venue and lunchroom combined? Seek no more, this is your place: you can check your mails, while sipping a glass of cava, while André, the name of your washing machine, is doing his very best producing clean clothes and Josephine, the name of the dryer, is doing her best drying your clothes. Nice brunch on Sunday morning. QOpen Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. JSWWassalon B-5, Overpoortstraat 20, tel. (+32) 922 12 787, [email protected]. Self-service washing machines and dryers, which are primarily used by the students living in the neighbourhood. Using a washing machine costs €4, cash only. QOpen 09:00 - 20:45.

LibrariesBibliotheek Mariakerke Trekweg 1, tel. (+32) 922 79 195, [email protected]. QOpen Mon, Thu 16:00 - 19:00, Wed 14:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Fri, Sun. WBibliotheek Watersportbaan Neermeerskaai 2, tel. (+32) 922 08 934, [email protected]. QOpen Mon 16:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Wed, Fri, Sun. WGent Public Library - Gentbrugge Sint-Simonstraat 41, tel. (+32) 923 04 413, [email protected]. QOpen Mon, Thu 16:00 - 19:00, Wed 14:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Fri, Sun. W

Photo servicesPiet De Kersgieter Hamerstraat 122, tel. (+32) 485 13 43 06, www.pietdekersgieter.be.Wolf en Wolf Francisco Ferrerlaan 40, tel. (+32) 922 79 083, [email protected], www.wolfsite.be.

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Press Box

Boat rentalMBC Minerva Boat Company Lindelei 2A, tel. (+32) 923 37 917, www.minervaboten.be.

BowlingOverpoort Bowl B-5, Overpoortstraat 38, tel. (+32) 922 42 418, [email protected], www.overpoortbowl.be. A game of bowling at this student hang out costs €2.50 per person on weekday afternoons. After 19:00 and during the weekend the price is €3.50 per person per game. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 02:00. GBX

Fitness & GymsBasic-Fit Gent Dampoort Dendermondsesteen-weg 23, tel. (+32) 702 22 351, [email protected]. ALHealthCity Gent Korenmarkt Korenmarkt 2, tel. (+32) 923 32 775, [email protected]. AHealthCity Gent Zuiderlaan Zuiderlaan 4, tel. (+32) 924 37 530, [email protected]. ALYogatimes Grondwetlaan 22, tel. (+32) 486 86 70 10, [email protected].

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