GH19.1 - its-ltd.net · PDF fileWho has responsibility in your own salon for the gowning and...

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Handout

Client preparation for styling and dressing hair and the expected service times for styling and dressing hair

Some of this area of learning may have been covered in NVQ/SVQ Level 2, however, it is important to recap the knowledge for Level 3.

It is important to ensure that the minimum standards required for the safety and protection of clients are provided and to ensure that the client’s clothing is well protected before beginning the service.

Your salon may have different requirements but as a minimum it is recommended that the routine below is followed:

Work station• chair to be clean and dry, worktop to be

clean and tidy and free from hairs• products and equipment on display to

be clean and free from dust and debris• tools to be cleaned, disinfected and/or

sterilised before use• setting trolley to be prepared with all

necessary materials

Client• clean towel to be placed over the

client’s shoulders• clean gown placed on the client and

secured to ensure it does not fall off• second towel to be placed over the

client’s shoulders if required

It is recognised that in some salons, junior members of staff may prepare the clients and the workstations.

State your salon’s procedure for preparing clients for styling, dressing and finishing hair.

Suggest ways of improving your salon’s preparation procedures.

Who has responsibility in your own salon for the gowning and protection of clients?

GH19.1.1Handout - (1 of 2)


Handout

Client preparation for styling and dressing hair and the expected service times for styling and dressing hair

Expected service times

There are no set service times for the completion of styling and finishing hair for NVQ/SVQ Level 3 assessment purposes.

However, the time you take to complete such services must reflect what is expected in commercial salons. In addition, you must be aware that the times allowed for styling and finishing will vary from one salon to another.

The commercial service times include the time allowed for:

• blow drying• setting• pin curling• finger waving• use of heated styling equipment

When working at the standard required for NVQ/SVQ Level 3, it is likely that you will have access to junior members of staff who can help with your appointments. For example, you may have less senior members of staff to assist you with drying the client’s hair, passing to you.

Notes.

Handout - (2 of 2) GH19.1.1


Activity

Commercially acceptable service times

There is no stated time for this service for the NVQ/SVQ at Level 3 but all completion times should be commercially viable.

Please complete the grid to record the estimated time for performance of each of the listed tasks. Then compare your salon’s expected service times with those of your colleagues

Service Time allowed in salon

Blow drying short hair

Blow drying long hair

Setting and combing out short hair

Setting and combing out long hair

Pin curling 25% of a head

Finger waving 25% of a head

GH19.1.1


Handout

COSHH

COSHH is one of the regulations that stem from the Health & Safety at Work Act.

COSHH stands for – Control of Substances Hazardous to Health and means that there have to be controls over the use of all chemicals or other substances that could cause damage to health or be a threat to the safety of the people using them.

Note the difference between a hazard and a risk:

• a hazard is something that could be harmful

• a risk is when the chance of harm being caused is increased

For example, a setting lotion is a hazard because it is a substance that could cause harm if it entered the eyes. The risk of damage is increased if the lotion is incorrectly applied and runs into the eyes.

This is called risk assessment. Salon owners must carry out a risk assessment to help them to decide the best way of controlling the substance and, therefore, of reducing the risk. When stylists do a risk assessment it can help them to identify the potentially harmful products in the salon and what to do in the case of:

• accidental spillage• ingestion (swallowing)• entry to the eyes• damage to the skin

Your salon will have carried out a risk assessment of the products held or used within it and this will give you specific information about how to handle them and any precautionary requirements of the products.

All salon workers must comply with the COSHH requirements to use, handle, store and dispose of hairdressing substances in accordance with salon policy, manufacturers’ instructions and local bye-laws.

When helping less experienced members of staff to understand and remember the COSHH Regulations it may help if you use the acronym SHUD (Store, Handle, Use, and Dispose of). They may find it easier to remember what the requirements are.

Store Handle Use Dispose of……… styling and finishing

products

COSHH tells you how you SHUD work.

GH19.1.2


Handout

Electricity at Work Regulations

The purpose of these regulations is to state that electrical equipment must be adequately maintained and checked by a qualified person. A written record of the equipment tests should be kept and should be made available for inspection.

It is important to visually check if the equipment is safe for use by checking the flex and the plug. The equipment should only be used for its intended purpose and you should make sure that you know how to use it.

When you have finished with the equipment, switch off, remove from the power source, allow heated items to cool and store the equipment safely away. It is your responsibility to ensure that any faulty equipment that you find in your workplace is removed from use, labelled as faulty and reported to a relevant person*.

*You may be the responsible person in your salon to whom other people will report faulty electrical equipment.

If this is so you must ensure that you take all necessary steps to make certain that no faulty equipment gets back into use in the salon. One way of doing this is to attach a clearly written label that states what the fault is, the date it was reported to you and who reported it.

Ensure that

• the faulty equipment is kept in a safe place to await repair or disposal

• if it can be repaired, arrange for a qualified person to repair it

• if it cannot be repaired, carefully and safely dispose of the equipment in line with salon policy and within the limits of your authority

Why do you think it is important that such legislation exists?

How is the regular checking of electrical equipment carried out in your own salon?

GH19.1.3


Handout

The salon image and expected standards of service

The image of the salon can reflect a number of areas, including:

• dress code• hairstyles • décor• furniture• reading material• lighting• music played (or not)• cleanliness

Dress code is one of the first observations a client will make when they enter the salon. The clothes staff wear can have a great impact on the salon’s image.

Most salons have some form of dress code, it may be:

• casual• smart• designed to portray the image of the

salon• designed to show how the salon staff

want to project themselves

Sometimes, the clothes that salon staff wear are chosen to co-ordinate with the colour scheme of the salon.

However the clothes for salon staff are chosen, it should be done in harmony with the salon’s professional image.

The dress code may go as far as dictating the hairstyles worn by staff. They may be required to wear up-to-date or even avant-garde hairstyles as this may increase the salon’s revenue if clients choose to copy the looks they see.

Décor This may be classic, modern or avant-garde. A salon with décor in a classic style will attract clients who want classic hairstyles, modern décor is likely to draw young, dynamic, business people and a salon with an avant-garde décor will appeal to a young, fashion conscious clientele.

FurnitureThe furniture of the salon usually reflects the décor. Furniture includes working stations, reception desk, seating, floor covering, etc. and must be kept clean and in good repair.

Reading materialThis should reflect the type of clientele who visit the salon. It is essential that it is up- to-date and in good condition.

LightingLighting in the reception area can be diffused and muted whereas the working area should be well lit. This should enable the stylists see clearly when working, but ensure that it is not too bright or glaring for the client. In areas of the salon where hair colouring is done the lighting must not distort the perceived colour shade.



Handout


MusicSome salons do not allow music to be played as it is difficult to suit all tastes and sometimes people can become agitated by certain types of music. However, if music is used to enhance the image of the salon, the salon must make payments to The Performing Rights Society for the use of its members’ work.

If music is played it should not be so loud that it prevents conversation between client and stylist or to cause misunderstandings when instructions are given to junior staff.

CleanlinessAdherence to the Health & Safety at Work Act means that it is a legal requirement for hairdressers to provide a clean environment in which clients can have their hair done.

Expected standards of serviceTo remain professional and for the salon to be appealing to the client, there should be agreed, expected standards of service which all salon staff adhere to.

This will include:

• the way in which the clients are greeted when they enter the salon

• how they are treated for the duration of their visit

• the standard of hairdressing that they receive

• the efforts made to encourage their return

A warm smile and friendly welcome should greet a client when they enter the salon. If the receptionist is in the middle of a conversation with another client at the time, then they should at least acknowledge the new visitor with friendly eye contact.

When speaking on the telephone, you should smile. Your smile will be reflected in your voice.

All hairdressing services must be carried out to a high degree of proficiency and must meet the client’s requirements.

During the service or treatment, the client’s comfort should be ensured, they should be kept up-to-date with the progress of the service, further treatments and aftercare should be recommended and they should be offered refreshments and reading materials.



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When a client is treated well during their visit and receives a hairdressing service that satisfies them, they may want to return. Following completion of hairdressing services to the satisfaction of the client, it is important to talk to the client about the following before they leave the salon:

• further beneficial treatments or services • offers them another appointment

Answer the following questions by relating to your own salon:

1. What refreshments does your salon provide and when do they offer these?

2. How do you answer the telephone in your salon?

3. What is your dress code?

4. What sort of music do you play?

5. What do you do in your own salon to make the client feel special?

6. How do you ensure that all staff adhere to the same salon standards?

7. What aspect of your salon’s image would you change if you had the opportunity?

Notes.



Handout

The range of protective clothing that should be available for clients

You must ensure that the client’s clothing is well protected before you carry out any styling or dressing process.

Protective clothing and materials used when styling and dressing hair are:

• towels• gowns• shoulder capes• cotton wool

Ensure that all protective clothing and materials are securely placed and that the client is comfortable before proceeding with the service. Pay particular attention to any protective clothing that may become damp, perhaps during the shampooing stage of the hair preparation. This must be changed immediately.

An astute stylist will also take note of the number of garments a client is wearing before they are gowned for a service. If the client is wearing a number of layers they may wish to remove one or two in order not to become too warm when they are fully gowned up. The importance of using personal protective equipment and the types available

You have a responsibility to protect yourself from any risk or injury to health and safety during your working hours. Wearing personal protective equipment when required will ensure your hands and clothes are protected.

Types of personal protective equipment:

• gloves to protect the skin when shampooing the hair before styling

• apron to protect the clothes from staining or damage

• finger guards to protect the fingers when using heated equipment

Notes.

GH19.1.5


Handout

How to position the client and yourself

How the position of the client and yourself can affect the desired outcome and reduce fatigue and the risk of injury and the importance of positioning equipment for ease of use

If you are to minimise the risk of becoming very tired very quickly and possibly causing long term damage to your muscles, you must ensure that you stand correctly when carrying out a service

In addition, if your posture is correct, a better working position is achieved. This will help you, as a stylist, to increase speed and become more effective.

You should stand with legs straight and feet slightly apart to maintain balance and even distribution of your weight. Keep both feet on the floor, don’t stand on tiptoes or balance on your heels. Try to remain relaxed and keep your head up. Avoid stretching or bending to reach the client.

It is important that the client is positioned correctly – if the client slouches and slides down into the chair you will have to bend to be able to reach the lower parts of the head. In addition, the client will soon become uncomfortable and tired. Ensure that the client is in the correct position with their back placed against the back of the chair for support. Provide a footrest if their feet do not reach the floor.When you become tired you lose concentration. This causes you to become slower and less effective. Good positioning allows you to work on clients more easily and efficiently.

Positioning equipment for ease of useIf you must repeatedly stop work to find something that you need, it will create an impression of inefficiency and your client may object.

The main reasons for positioning your equipment correctly are:• to ensure that everything is readily

available• to provide an efficient method of

working throughout the service

All tools should be clean, free of hair, sterilised and laid out on a clean work surface or trolley. The trolley should be set out so that all materials and tools are in their correct and logical place and can be easily reached. It looks untidy, unprofessional and slipshod when a trolley is badly prepared.

Other reasons for positioning equipment correctly are:• to maintain a tidy working area and tidy

salon• to prevent accidents• to minimise overstretching and twisting

the body• to save time looking for things therefore

contributing to the smooth running of the salon

GH19.1.6


Handout

Keeping your work area clean and tidy

As a professional stylist it is beneficial to both you and your salon if you keep up a good appearance. This applies to your work area as well as to your own appearance. If your work area is always clean and tidy it will create a professional image. If it is untidy and dirty the client is likely to think that they are not going to get a good service.

Remember, as a senior member of staff, you have to set a good example.

A dirty work or staff area allows bacteria to multiply and infections are more likely to be spread from one client to another or between client and stylist.

You have a duty to provide a hygienic environment for clients and by so doing you will minimise the risk of spreading infection.

A dirty environment will also increase the risk of you catching an infection, which could cause you to be off work, lose income and clients.

An untidy work area often contains hazards – loose, trailing wires, hot electrical tools balanced on narrow shelves or towels and gowns draping over chairs. By keeping work areas tidy the hazards are reduced.

Summary

The reasons why work areas should be kept clean and tidy are:

• to keep up a professional image of yourself and the salon

• to decrease the risk of passing infection from person to person

• to reduce hazards

Notes.

GH19.1.7


Handout GH19.1.8Step 1 Wear disposable nitrile or vinyl gloves – long length so that the cuffs can be turned back to catch any drips of water when shampooing, applying or removing hairdressing chemicals.

The 5 simple steps

Step 2 Dry the hands thoroughly using a clean soft cotton or paper towel – using a soft, clean, dry towel will be kinder to the hands and prevent any contamination from used towels.

Step 3 After washing moisturise thoroughly, not missing fingertips, finger webs and wrists. Regularly replacing lost moisture will help to keep the skin healthy.

Step 4 Change gloves between clients – changing gloves between clients gives the hands a chance to breathe, as well as being more hygienic.

Step 5Check the skin regularly for early signs of dermatitis.


Handout

The safety considerations which must be taken into account when styling and dressing hair

All hairdressers must follow the basic rules relating to safety when styling and dressing hair.

If basic safety rules are not followed you may cause damage to hair, skin or scalp and this may expose you or the salon to the risk of litigation. If you have not followed the basic rules of safety you would be likely to lose any claim for compensation.

The safety rules for styling and dressing hair are as follows:

• to clean, disinfect and/or sterilise tools after use• to use professional bands (covered

elastic bands)• protect client’s clothing • keep metal pins off the scalp• keep lotions and sprays away from the

client’s eyes

All tools must be cleaned, disinfected and/or sterilised before use on another client.

The use of professional bands avoids damage to the hair, especially when they are being removed.

You should protect the client’s clothing from possible staining from styling agents, perhaps temporary colourants and from wax or gel products that may mark clothing.

Ensure that, when securing a roller or placing pins into hair, you keep the metal

away from the scalp as it may scratch the skin or overheat and cause a burn if the hair is being dried under an overhead dryer.

When dressing hair make sure that dressing agents or holding sprays do not get into the client’s eyes.

Notes.

GH19.2.1


Handout

Methods of working safely and hygienically and which minimise the risk of cross-infection and cross-infestation

The Health & Safety at Work Act requires that all people work safely. This is to help prevent accidents.

You also have a duty to clients and colleagues to provide a hygienic environment. This is to reduce the spread of disease.

You should always position yourself so that you don’t have to stretch or bend. This helps to prevent muscle strain and permanent muscle damage.

Working safely

You must ensure that you:

• dispose of different types of waste according to local bye-laws and salon requirements

• read and follow the manufacturers’ instructions for the use of products and equipment

• position the client to make sure that she is comfortable

• properly supervise colleagues who help with the styling and dressing process

Working hygienically

You must:

• keep the work area clean and tidy throughout the service

• always use clean gowns, towels and capes on clients

• clean, disinfect and/or sterilise all tools before using them on clients

The Health & Safety at Work Act requires that all people work safely and hygienically to help prevent accidents and the spread of disease and as professional hairdressers we have a duty to clients to provide a safe and hygienic environment.

If the guidelines listed above are followed you can ensure that you help to provide a healthy, safe and hygienic salon.

GH19.2.2


Handout

The importance of personal hygiene

The most important thing a client wants when they come to a salon is good hairdressing. If the stylist provides a good service to a high standard then the client is likely to return. However, if the stylist does not ensure that their personal hygiene is of the same high standard as their hairdressing the client may not come back. Body odour (BO) can be the result of insufficient cleanliness.

Human skin contains sweat glands that secrete waste in the form of sweat. Bacteria need warm, moist conditions to be able to multiply. There are lots of harmless bacteria in the sweaty, warm folds of the body, for example, the groin and in the armpits. When bacteria die they decompose, they decay and this is what causes odour.

If a person washes thoroughly at least every 24 hours and changes their clothing it is unlikely that they will have BO. All clothing that comes into contact with the skin, especially the type that is in contact with the armpits and groin, must be changed once a day. The clothing absorbs sweat and if this is not washed or dry cleaned out of the fabric it will smell.

Some people try to cover the smell of unwashed skin or clothing by using deodorants. It is not possible to do this – the odour is still noticeable to others although the person themselves may not be aware of it. Antiperspirants and deodorants are designed to be used on clean skin and should never be applied to unwashed skin.

Oral hygiene must be maintained by frequently brushing your teeth and visiting the dentist regularly to ensure that you have no decaying teeth. Bad teeth can cause bad breath.

Hands and nails will be in full view of the client, therefore they must always be clean. If nail varnish is worn it should not be chipped.

Hairdressing is a very personal service and the personal hygiene and appearance of the people who work in the industry is of great importance.

You must pay close attention to: Hygiene• daily shower or bath• the use of antiperspirants and

deodorants• oral (mouth) hygiene

Appearance• hair and make-up• hands and nails• shoes• jewellery• posture

GH19.2.3


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Why it is important to check electrical equipment used to aid the styling and finishing processes

It is important to visually check if the equipment is safe for use by checking the flex and the plug.

By doing this you will help to ensure that the equipment is in good working order and you will:

• minimise the risk of harm occurring to yourself or to others

• prevent the risk of electric shock

Remember, an electric shock can be fatal.

The equipment should only be used for its intended purpose and you should make sure that you know how to use it.

When you have finished with the equipment, switch off, remove from the power source and store the equipment safely.

It is your responsibility to ensure that any faulty equipment that you find in your workplace is removed from use, labelled as faulty and reported to the relevant person.

As a member of the styling staff in the salon it may be that you are the person to whom other staff bring faulty electrical equipment. If this is so you must ensure that you take all necessary steps to make certain that no faulty equipment gets back into use in the salon. One way of doing this is to attach a clearly written label that states what the fault is, the date it was reported to you and who reported it. Put the equipment out of the way in a place where it is unlikely to be disturbed and make arrangements for it to be disposed of or repaired in line with salon policy and within the limits of your authority.

GH19.2.4


Handout

The methods of cleaning, disinfection and/or sterilisation used in salons

Cleaning You need to ensure that work areas and tools are cleaned prior to disinfection or sterilisation by: • making sure all work areas are wiped down with disinfectant regularly throughout the day• making sure towels, gowns and capes which come into contact with clients are clean and only used once, before being washed on a high temperature cycle• removing any loose hairs from combs

and brushes then wash in warm soapy water to remove any products, dirt and grease before disinfecting or sterilising the tools. Cleaning the tools before placing them in a disinfectant jar helps to prevent contamination of the disinfectant solution.

Moist heat • this is a very effective method of

sterilising all tools• moist heat is created by the use of an

autoclave which heats water to a very high temperature – higher than boiling

• it creates super-heated steam - hot enough to quickly kill most common bacteria found in salons

• small, hand-held tools are put into the autoclave, sealed and the water inside is brought to the required temperature

• the temperature is maintained for the time necessary to ensure that all bacteria are dead then the water is allowed to cool before the tools are removed

• the main disadvantage of this method of sterilisation is you need to have sufficient supplies of tools to allow you to work on other clients while the autoclave is in use and you must buy combs that can withstand very high temperatures if they are to go into the autoclave

Dry heat • this method of sterilisation is rarely

used in salons• there are now pre-packed towels

available that have been sterilised by these means

• high temperatures (of dry heat) are created in an oven

• glass bead sterilisers can be used to sterilise small metal tools

• the disadvantage is that although bacteria are effectively killed by this method tools can be damaged because they are held in the heat for an extended time

Chemicals - disinfectant• often used in salons and effective if used

correctly • tools are required to be washed before

placing into the disinfectant solution• they must be left in the disinfectant long

enough for it to do its job• the solution must fully cover the item and

may take up to an hour to disinfect• as with using an autoclave, hairdressers

must have enough tools to allow for the time to disinfect



Handout Handout - (2 of 2)

into the UV cabinet • the UV light sterilises those areas that it

reaches• the items will require turning so that all

surfaces are treated• this is not a recommended method and is more suitable to storing tools already disinfected or sterilised by other methods

UV light rays: • uses ultraviolet (UV) light rays to kill

bacteria• the tools must be cleaned then placed

GH19.2.5

Notes.


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The importance of using products economically

When products are used economically the salon benefits financially.

For example, if a can of styling mousse contains sufficient for 20 clients, but it was emptied after only 15 applications, then 25% of the mousse has been wasted.

The fewer items of consumable stock that the salon has to purchase the larger is the profit margin.

The benefits of using products economically are:

• salon profits are increased• detrimental effects on the environment

are reduced• it minimises waste• it avoids overstocking of products

You must remember to use products economically. You should understand that the cost of stock is deducted from the salon profits so the more product that is wasted the more it costs, leaving less money available for staff payments.

At the same time, you should also use sufficient product to complete the job well. If you skimp on product you may get an unsatisfactory result which will leave the client unhappy. If this happens the client is entitled to ask to have the service done again or to have a refund. Either of these courses of action will affect profits and, ultimately, your pay.

It may be that, as a senior member of the styling team in your salon, you have responsibility for monitoring the stock use of other members of the team.

How will you do this?

Notes.

GH19.2.6


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The health & safety factors to consider when making a choice of non-conventional items

The two main health & safety factors to be considered when using non-conventional items are:

• they must be suitable for use• if the item is of a solid nature it must

not be cracked or broken

Other considerations are:

• is it safe for taking too high temperatures under a dryer (will it melt or heat up)?

• will it damage the client’s hair or scalp?

There are still other factors to bear in mind.

For example:

• will it achieve the desired shape or finished look?

• is it practical?• is it feasible?• will it reduce the life span of the

hairstyle?• how long will it take for the hair to dry?

While these aspects affect the use of the non-conventional item and need to be considered, they are not health & safety related.

Make a list of non-conventional items that you think can be used to set hair into an effect that cannot be achieved by conventional means.

Notes.

GH19.2.7


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The effects of humidity on hair

Hair is made up of proteins called amino acids. These proteins form themselves into chains called polypeptide chains. The polypeptide chains are so small they can only be seen under the most powerful electron microscopes. Each polypeptide chain is in the shape of a spring. The proper name for a spring or spiral is an ‘alpha-helix’ (plural is helices).

Polypeptide chains twist with one another and when this happens they are held together by different bonds:

• disulphide bonds – very strong bonds that can only be broken by the addition of chemicals such as perm lotion

• salt bonds - weak bonds that can be broken by heat or moisture

• hydrogen bonds - weak bonds that can be broken by heat or moisture

The disulphide bonds and salt bonds hold the polypeptide chains together but hydrogen bonds hold the loops of the chains and prevent them from stretching too much.

Each polypeptide chain winds itself around other chains close to it (like the filaments of cotton that make up a strand of thread). These tiny groups with, perhaps, only three filaments in each, wind with others to form larger structures (like rope) then these twist with still others to create even bigger, stronger structures (like cables that tie a ship to the dock). Each of these largest twists is what goes to make up a fibre of the cortex. There are hundreds of thousands of fibres in the cortex of each hair.

Hair is hygroscopic – it can absorb the moisture in the air (humidity) by capillary action, as blotting paper will become damp if left in a steamy atmosphere. The water is passed from cell to cell of the paper or hair and is carried throughout the structure of the material.

Humidity – the amount of moisture in the air. Porosity is the speed at which moisture will be absorbed into the hair. If the hair is porous it will absorb it quickly because the cuticle will be open (possibly due to damage). If the hair has low porosity, it means that the cuticle is lying firm against the hair and the moisture can’t get inside easily, it takes much longer to reach the cortex.

When the moisture in the air is absorbed by the hair it becomes wet and the following will happen:

• the cuticle opens slightly and the hair swells slightly

• in curly hair the cuticle opens slightly, the hair swells and shrinks in length

• the hair can stretch further because the hydrogen and salt bonds break

• if the hair is not dried under tension into a stretched position, the hydrogen and salt bonds will revert to their normal, unstretched pattern



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Other facts about hair:

• hair is made up of 50% carbon, 21% oxygen, 18% nitrogen, 7% hydrogen and 4% sulphur

• salt linkages are weak and are easily broken by acids and alkalines

• there are many hydrogen bonds but they are the weakest of all the bonds

Hair that is unstretched is in the alpha keratin state while stretched hair is in the beta keratin state.

Hair structure showing polypeptide chain

Diagram showing the salt linkages and hydrogen bonds



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The physical effects of styling on the hair structure and how the incorrect application of heat can affect the hair and scalp

Hair is made up of polypeptide chains that twist together to form hair as we know it.

These chains are held together by:

• strong disulphide bonds• weak salt bonds that help to hold the

chains together• weak hydrogen bonds that prevent the

loops of the polypeptide chain spirals from being stretched too far

When hair is in its normal state it is not stretched. This state is known as the alpha keratin state. When hair is stretched – as during styling, it becomes beta keratin. If hair is wet and/or heated it is easier to stretch it and it will stretch further than when it is dry. This is because the hydrogen bonds and some salt bonds are broken by the moisture or the heat so the ‘springs’ (the shape of the polypeptide chains) can be lengthened.

When hair is styled it is stretched slightly by rollers, rik-rak rods, chopsticks, the fingers, etc. Because it is dried into this stretched position the broken hydrogen and salt bonds reform in a different pattern and will stay there until the hair becomes wet or hot again. This is what gives different styling methods lasting power.

When hair becomes wet again (by absorbing atmospheric moisture, shampooing, being in a steamy bathroom, excessive scalp perspiration, being caught in the rain, etc.) the hydrogen and salt bonds will go back to their normal pattern and the blow dry will be lost.

Diagram showing breaking of hydrogen bonds



Handout

Incorrect application of heat

Stylists must be aware of the dangers involved in the use of heated styling tools and equipment. If care is not taken there is a danger of affecting the hair and the scalp.

The hair may be affected by:

• becoming scorched• becoming singed• becoming discoloured• breaking off

In addition, the scalp can be burned by the incorrect application of heat.

If a hand dryer or other heated equipment is held at one area of the scalp or hair for too long, or is held too close to the hair or scalp it is likely to cause damage to the hair (and scalp). At the very least, the hair will be scorched but it may break off completely.

This scorching can result in:

• hair that is naturally white or that has been chemically treated will discolour

• white hair or bleached hair will become yellow

• African Caribbean hair will become reddish

• chemically treated hair may fade in colour

Notes.



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The physical effects of styling and finishing products on the hair and how they work to maintain the style

When hair is in alpha keratin it is in its natural unstretched state. When the hair is stretched and dried it takes the shape of the styling tool around which it is wrapped or placed. It then becomes beta keratin because the hydrogen and salt bonds have been broken and the hair has been stretched and dried into a new position. It will stay in beta keratin until it becomes wet, damp or hot again.

When the hair does become wet, damp or hot the same bonds break again and, so long as the hair is not stretched, they will revert to their natural positions and the hair will return to the alpha keratin state.

This means that it goes back to its natural shape which can be straight, curly or wavy - and the style is lost.

Hair is hygroscopic. This means that it absorbs moisture and porous hair absorbs moisture faster than hair which is not porous. The reason for this is that the cuticle is raised from the surface of the hair shaft so the moisture can enter into the cortex more easily. If a barrier is applied the absorption of the moisture can be slowed down. This means there is a delay in the return of the hair to the alpha keratin state, thus allowing the style to remain for a longer time.

Setting, dressing and finishing agents provide this protection from moisture. They create a sheath over the hair shaft that prevents the absorption of moisture or reduces the speed at which it is absorbed.

This means that:

• the bonds stay in their new positions• the hair stays in the stretched position• the style lasts longer

There is a wide range of products on the market that will extend the life of the finished result:

For example:

• lotions• gels• sprays• mousses• waxes

Many of these products have the ability to do one or more things to benefit the hair but their priorities are to help the style to hold longer and to make the hair look and feel good.

Summary: The physical effects of styling, dressing and finishing products are to:

• protect the hair from humidity• hold the hair in place• condition the hair• make the style last longer

GH19.3.3


Handout

Why hair should be allowed to cool prior to dressing out

Wetting and heating the hair will break some of the salt and hydrogen bonds and, if you want the style to last, you must dry the hair under tension so that the bonds can reform in a new pattern.

Because heat as well as water causes the bonds to break, the hair should be held under tension until it cools. If you do this, you will allow the bonds to set into their new shape. If you take the tension off while the hair is still warm, the bonds will reform in their natural, unstretched, alpha keratin shape.

You don’t have to waste a lot of time in letting the hair cool. You can do this by switching the heat setting of the hairdryer to ‘cool’ and blowing the cool air over the hair. Alternatively you can do this by allowing the client to sit and relax for a few minutes until the hair is cool when they come out from under the overhead dryer.

If you use heated tools such as tongs or straighteners, you should avoid disturbing the hair while it cools by letting it cool naturally.

The main reason why hair should be allowed to cool before finishing the dressing is:

• to allow the curl to harden into its new position for a longer lasting style

Notes.

GH19.3.4


Handout

The range of products, tools and equipment available for styling and dressing hair and the suitability of specific products and equipment for use with different hair types and for achieving different effects

Each salon will decide which products, tools and equipment to use. Salons usually have enough materials to allow staff to deal with the different hair types and different styling techniques.

Styling and finishing products

As a general guide, these should consist of:

• mousse• setting and styling lotions• styling gel• wax• dressing creams• finishing gel• sprays

Styling and finishing tools These should include:

• rollers, clips, pins non-conventional setting tools

• a range of brushes designed to achieve different effects

• a range of combs

Styling and finishing equipment

This may comprise of:

• Hand-held hairdryers• Heated styling tools (tongs, hot

brushes, straighteners, etc)• Overhead dryer or infrared dryer

Your salon is likely to provide the larger, more expensive equipment like overhead and infrared dryers and many salons supply hand-held hairdryers. However, you would normally be expected to provide your styling tools.

Notes.

GH19.3.5


Activity

Tools, products and equipment

Complete the following chart by noting the tools, products and equipment you have available at your own salon for the listed hair types.

Tools Products Equipment

Curly

Straight

Coarse

Fine

GH19.3.5


Handout

The types of non-conventional items that may be used when setting hair and the effects they can create

There are only two restrictions on the use of non-conventional items for setting hair.

• the first is that you must remain within the bounds of the Health & Safety at Work Act

• the second is your own imagination

The effects that can be created will be determined by the shape of the setting item.

For example:

• to achieve curls they must use a cylindrical setting tool, for example, rollers or pin curls

• to achieve a flat waving movement then they must keep the hair close to the head and set the waves using a comb and their fingers

• to achieve a zigzag effect, they must wind the hair around formers in a figure of eight

You must become creative if you want to deviate from the norm, to create a shape that is unusual and innovative.

Notes.

GH19.3.6


Activity

Non-conventional items

Think of as many ideas for non-conventional items that can be used to set hair.

Bear the following guidelines in mind when listing your findings:

• state the item you could use

• describe the effect of the shape that could be created

• check that the item would be safe to use

• ensure that the item is easily available

• check that the weight of the item can be supported by the hair

Notes.

GH19.3.6


Handout

The manufacturers’ instructions relating to the use of the specific styling and finishing products in your salon

It is very important to read and follow manufacturers’ instructions for the use of styling and finishing products.

It is not unknown for clients to be allergic to even the mildest of products. The products may contain perfume or lanolin (a known sensitiser) that has an adverse reaction when it comes into contact with their skin.

Although it is not general practice to skin test any of these products, you must ensure to ask the client during the consultation if they have any known or suspected allergies to the ingredients in the products that you intend to use.

Exercise Gather the manufacturers’ instructions for the styling and finishing products that are used in your salon. Compile these into a concise portfolio that can be held in the salon for reference by new or junior members of staff. Present the portfolio to your trainer and colleagues before placing it in the salon.

Notes.

GH19.3.7


Handout

When hair is backcombed or back brushed the comb or the bristles of the brush catch the cuticles and push them back against their normal direction of growth.

The effect that this creates is to tangle the hair – some hair in a section is pushed right back almost to the roots, other hair is pushed half way down the length of the hair, while the remaining hair is hardly pushed back at all.

By doing this, the hair can be made to look abundant - the stylist can create volume, even in fine hair that is impossible to achieve by any other means.

Be aware that the backcombing and back brushing should be a very controlled action – it is not a case of just knotting up or tangling the hair.

For certain types of dressings, backcombing and back brushing can make the hair more easily managed and it helps to secure grips, pins and some ornamentation more firmly. This happens because the pins or grips are placed into the backcombing or back brushing and cannot easily slide out.

On some hair types (especially very fine or very straight hair) it is virtually impossible to get grips, pins or ornamentation to hold without the backcombing or back brushing. The grips, pins or ornamentation would simply slide out.

However, although backcombing and back brushing can assist a stylist to achieve some dressings you must not forget the damaging effect that these processes have on the hair.

Backcombing and back brushing roughens the cuticle to create volume but if too much is done or if it is done too often it can break the cuticle. This results in dull, dry hair that looks unhealthy and drab.

GH19.3.8The effects of backcombing and back brushing on the hair structure

Notes.


Handout

When a client has her hair done in a style that is dressed or pinned up, she expects it to stay in place for a few hours.

If the stylist does not fix the hair firmly into place it will soon become loose and stray hairs will escape from the dressing, the client is likely to try to put them back in place and this disturbs the dressing further and it drops.

You should be able to use any of the following accessories to secure the hair:

• grips• pins• clasps• bands• added hair• other fastening devices

Or apply:

• holding sprays• gels• other holding aids

When attaching grips and pins into the dressing you must be aware of the damage to the hair and scalp that can be caused. The scalp may be scratched or grazed and the cuticle of the hair may be broken. Sharp edged pins or grips can penetrate to the cortex and through the hair shaft.

If too much holding spray and other products are used or if they are used too often it will result in the hair becoming dry and brittle. The cuticle will be damaged because the spirit in these products evaporates very quickly and takes moisture out of the hair.

If you are not very careful when securing different, accessories and added hair, they can:

• damage the cuticles• cause fragilitis crinium (split ends)• cause trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen,

broken hair shaft)

You should always use secure items that have cushion tips – tiny blobs of plastic that cover any sharp points or edges. Handout GH19.3.9 (2 of 2 pages)Sometimes clients wear their hair up over a long period of time. You should advise the client of the possible consequences of doing this.

Wearing the hair up for a long time can cause:

• dry scalp• sensitive scalp• traction alopecia (hair loss)

If excessive tension is placed on the hair it can damage not only the hair but also the scalp.

GH19.3.9The potential effects on the hair structure of using and securing added hair and accessories

Notes.


Handout

Current styling and dressing looks and how the factors in the range affect the styling process and the finished look

The hairdressing industry is one in which fashion changes very quickly. The styles that are considered to be fashionable today can be out of date tomorrow. Therefore it is difficult to decide precisely what is a current style.

When creating a look for a client it is very important that you take into account the factors that will influence the styling process and the finished look. These can have a significant effect on how you style or finish the hair.

The hair type, texture, density and the hair growth patterns can affect the styling and the finished look and can determine:

• the styling products that should be used• the temperature of heated styling tools

that should be used• the size of styling tools that should be

used• the direction of the styled hair• the effect of the finished look

They can also influence the ultimate choice of style because the client’s face or head shape or features may preclude the selection of a specific shape, or the length of the hair may rule out a particular style.

Notes.

GH19.4.1


Handout

How the angle of winding on and off base influences the volume and direction of the hair movement

Winding on base means that the hair is wound down to the scalp so that it covers the area from which the hair is growing.

Winding off base can be done in two ways:• dragging the hair down into the curl so that the roots are kept relatively flat and the curl

sits on the scalp below the area from which the hair grows• lifting the hair into the curl so that the curl is placed above the area from which it grows

You must recognise that winding off base is not always a sign of poor winding techniques. It is necessary to wind off base in order to over-direct when styling and dressing some looks although, if you wind off base to increase volume, the result is usually excessive volume that can only be used in some extreme looks.

You must understand that when hair is wound off base, root lift and volume will either be minimised or increased although winding off base is usually done to minimise volume.

If the hair is wound off base so that the hair is dragged into the curl the volume is minimised but the direction of the hair movement is maximised. When hair is wound on base the maximum volume is achieved.

Summary• when hair is wound on base maximum volume is achieved in the direction of the wind• when hair is wound off base minimum volume is achieved but with maximum direction

of the hair movement

GH19.4.2


Handout

How and when to use point to root and root to point winding techniques and the variety of styling techniques available and why and when they are usedWhen hair is wound from the points of the hair down to the roots the technique is known as croquignole winding (pronounced croak-in-ole). This is the most common method of winding in use today.

When the hair is wound from roots to points a spiral winding technique is being used.

Each method has advantages and disadvantages:

Croquignole setting:

Advantage• gives a stronger curl at the ends of the

hair and it is easy to secure the wind

Disadvantages• unsuitable for long hair • the points of the hair must be perfectly

smooth around the roller

Spiral winding

Advantages• gives an even curl along its length• most effective when used on long hair

Disadvantages• difficult to secure without making a

mark in the points of the hair

Notes.

GH19.4.3


Handout GH19.4.5Methods of handling and securing added hair and accessories and the type of checks needed during styling and dressing services to ensure the intended shape, direction, balance and volume is achieved Remember, after the hair is dried and before starting to dress it into the style or effect, it must be:

• brushed• de-tangled

Added hair may be used for the follow-ing reasons:• to add length• to add volume• to add colour• for special occasions such as

weddings, parties, proms etc• to create a fashion statement that

reflects an individual’s image or personality

A client must feel confident that the added hair will stay in place for the length of time it will be worn. The added hair can be made secure by interlocking two hair clips/grips into backcombed or back brushed hair, then place the comb attachment on the base of the added hair behind and un-der the interlocked clips/grips.

It is not uncommon to use the fingers and palms when handling long hair. When han-dling very long hair, the forearm may also be used; the hair may be draped over the forearm whilst the hands and palms are used to place and secure it.

Accessories are often worn for the fol-lowing reasons • for special occasions such as weddings,

parties, proms etc• to create a fashion statement that

reflects an individual’s image or personality

• for securing a styling technique such as a plait or twist

Do not to leave clips in the hair for too long as some types of hair can easily mark.

The type of checks needed

Move around the head to check the shape and balance from a variety of directions

Another way to ensure that balance is achieved is to use the front mirror to mea-sure it. Some things seen through a mirror are not always visible to the naked eye. The mirror will highlight an imbalance and will also show if the direction or volume of a shape is what was intended.

If your salon has swivel chairs, you should very slowly turn the chair in a full circle so that the whole dressing can be seen in the front mirror. By doing this you can check the shape from all angles. This is a more effective method than using a back mirror.

In addition, the shape and balance should be checked by standing back from the dressed style.

Another good idea is to ask the client to stand up. After all, few people will spend the whole of the occasion for which the hair is being dressed in a sitting position.


Handout GH19.4.6Products for home use that will benefit the client and those to avoid and why

There is a large range of products avail-able for home use on the high street. The retail products in a salon are usually re-lated to the products used on a clients hair during the service.

You should explain to the client the ben-efits of the products used in the salon as opposed to products purchased from the high street without the advantage of being given professional advice.

Give advice on how to avoid a build up of products on the hair through over or incor-rect usage of products.

Within a range of products, each product has a unique purpose specific to a hair type or look, for example; hairspray is de-signed to hold a finished look in place but overuse of hairspray could make the hair-style difficult to handle, and possibly cause damage to the hair.

Give four examples of products you retail in your salon; explain the benefits of each of the products.

1)............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

2)............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

3)............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

4)............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................

Remember you want a client to return - so only recommend products that are of benefit to the clients’ hair type and style


Handout GH19.4.7Handout - (1 of 2)

How to maintain their style, how to remove pins, accessories, any add-ed hair and any backcombing and or back brushing and how to give effective advice and recommendations to clientsStylists will usually spend a lot of time in consultation with the client to find out ex-actly what she wants, to offer suggestions for suitable styles and to identify if there are any factors that may limit or prevent success of the style.

You will then spend more time in designing suitable shapes and looks and in offering ideas for enhancing the style. The ac-cessories, added hair and pins needed to secure the hairstyle, will be identified and agreed.

Carefully choose the products, tools and equipment that you will use. This will en-sure that you have the best possible items for the job and then you may spend even more time preparing for the event by prac-tising the hairstyle to make sure that every possible obstacle to success has been removed.

Remember to advise the client on how to maintain their style, this should be one of the main considerations for a stylist – A client needs know how to avoid damage to the hairstyle and how to make minor repairs if something goes wrong; give the client the benefit of your knowledge.

The main advice to give to clients to main-tain their style is straightforward:

• not to allow the hair to become wet or damp

• which head coverings can be worn without causing too much damage

• how to remove pins, grips, ornamentation and added hair

• follow the advice that you are giving her

Clients sometimes do a lot of damage to their hair when they try to remove pins, backcombing, back brushing, accessories and added hair from their own hair. It is important that you should explain:

• the correct way of removing backcombing and back brushing, working from point back to roots using a wide toothed comb or soft bristled hair brush

• the best method of removing pins by pushing at the point rather than pulling from the rounded end

• how to go down to the base of any accessories and unfasten it from there. Stress that they should avoid dragging it out from the part that is showing on the head

• the method for removing synthetic (or human) hair that has been attached by securing with pins and by twisting in with the dressing. Show them to push against the point of the pin and to unravel the added hair from the natural hair without applying tension

You must stress to the client that she must come back to the salon for the removal of additional hair that has been secured using glue.


Handout Handout - (2 of 2) GH19.4.7How to give effective advice and recom-mendations to clientsBefore a client leaves the salon, you should make sure they have been given effective advice on the maintenance of the finished look.

For example • the effects of humidity on the finished

look• the correct products to use at home to

maintain the condition of the hair• the services and products the salon

offers• when they should book their next

appointment.

Notes.

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