february 2010 cosmopolitan / www.cosmopolitan.co.uk 135 / cosmopolitan february 2010134

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WORDS AND STYLING kate turner. PHOTOGRAPHY GaVin o’neill

– for good!SKINBADHOW TOSORT OUT

from blackheads and bumps to oil slicks and acne, we’ve got the best advice and products to help you conquer your worst skin nightmares

‘WHY DO I STILL GET ACNE?’Well, you’re not alone. Adult acne is on the rise and most of us, including beauty editors, are still caught off guard by random breakouts that always happen at the worst moments! While most acne is down to genes, there are, according to UK trainer for Jan Marini, Yvonne Butt, new triggers in our modern lives that include poor diet, stress and hormonal surges. Facialist Sarah Chapman agrees: “I’m seeing a lot more people with stress-related acne. Stress releases hormones that can enlarge the sebaceous glands and flare acne.” Tackle the underlying causes of your flare-ups and you can clear up your skin in a matter of weeks. >

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Your BEAT THE BREAK-OUT PLAN• Quit smoking. According to Dr Mark Goodfi eld of the British Association of Dermatologists, a specifi c form of acne affects female adult smokers: “Forty two per cent of women who smoke have acne, compared to 10% of non-smokers.”• Stress leads to break-outs

and slows down the healing process. So de-stress with a brisk walk outside, a long, hot bath or getting to bed an hour earlier for a week.• Avoid cow’s milk. Some studies have shown that milk contains high hormone levels that can aggravate acne. • Omega 3 fatty acids, found in foods like oily fi sh, eggs,

nuts, seeds and olive oil, help reduce infl ammation, cleanse the colon and balance hormones. Fish oil supplements are one of the best sources of omega 3. Try Omega 3-6-9 Soft Gels, £17.57, for awesome skin.• Many models swear by the Ayurvedic supplement Tejaswini Clear Skin Capsules, £9.95 (www.victoriahealth.com), which contain herbs that help detox the liver and remove impurities.• “If you’re having no luck with at-home remedies, your GP can recommend treatments, including certain contraceptive pills, that can help improve your skin,” says Dr Mark.

Toothpaste makes a great emergency spot buster! The alcohol in the toothpaste helps dry spots out and the peppermint reduces redness.

Blackhead SOSWhat are they?A blackhead is an enlarged pore with a blocked opening. The black isn’t dirt; it’s what happens when air oxidises the sebum and melanin (skin pigment) trapped in the dead skin cells. “Blackheads form when hormones make the cells around the pore opening sticky, leading to an accumulation of

excess oil and bacteria,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Susan Mayou. How do I prevent them?Eliminate anything that can clog pores, such as rich moisturisers and foundations, and make sure your cosmetics are labelled ‘non-comedogenic’ (non pore-blocking). To blitz blackheads, use an exfoliating mask like Kate Somerville ExfoliKate Gentle, £58.72, twice a week to decongest the skin. “Look for products containing salicylic acid, which helps to exfoliate and dissolve blackheads,” says Dr Susan. Neutrogena Wave Blackhead Eliminating Pads, £5.99, work a treat.Can I squeeze?No way! It can damage your pores and leave them with a permanently jammed-open appearance. If you’ve got more than just a few blackheads, visit a facialist for professional extractions and a satisfyingly smooth complexion.

Coping with OILY SKIN• Don’t overwash. It’s tempting to wash your face three times a day and apply lashings of toner. “Unfortunately this strips the skin’s natural oils and makes your skin go into overdrive, producing even more oil and >

4 brilliant new anti-acne heroes4 brilliant new anti-acne heroes4 brilliant new anti-acne heroes4 brilliant new anti-acne heroes4 brilliant new anti-acne heroes4 brilliant new anti-acne heroes4 brilliant new anti-acne heroes

• Eucerin DermoPurifyer Cleanser, £8.99. A gentle anti-bacterial cleanser to whip away excess sebum without overdrying skin.

• Jan Marini Age Intervention Transitions Face Lotion, £85. Contains new wonder ingredient spirolac to help prevent hormonal-related breakouts and blitz stubborn adult acne.

• Environ B-Active Sebuspot, £15. An on-the-spot treatment containing new active ingredient Acnacidol with amazing sebum-regulating properties.

• Lumie Clear, £119.95. A hand-held gadget that emits a combination of blue and red LED light that’s clinically proven to help kill acne bacteria, reduce infl ammation and clear up skin.

february 2010 cosmopolitan / www.cosmopolitan.co.uk 139 / cosmopolitan february 2010138

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exacerbating the problem,” says Sarah Chapman. Funnily enough, moving to a gentler cleansing regime often seems to ease the problem.• Oil can be your friend. “Against your instincts, use an oil-based cleanser,” advises Sarah. “The oil will have a natural affi nity with your skin and be more readily absorbed into the pores, releasing

trapped sebum.” Try Origins Clean Energy, £15.• Oily skin still needs moisture. “Use a vitamin A-based moisturiser, which helps balance sebum secretion over time,” says Sarah. Try her Skinesis Dynamic Defence SPF15, £42.• Clay masks do work. But only if you use them twice a week, rather than just when

you remember. We like The Sanctuary Warming Charcoal Detox Mask, £8.97, with purifying charcoal and oil-mopping kaolin clays.• Take precautions. If you suffer from serious oil slicks by midday, apply Murad Oil Control Mattifi er, £29.50, under your makeup, which prevents excess surface oil by up to 78% for eight hours.

What causes them?Usually, slathering on heavy skincare products, which can stop dead skin cells exfoliating naturally. “Certain ingredients can trigger milia, such as D&C dyes found in some blushers and foundations (listed as D&C followed by a number) and mineral oil (‘paraffi num liquidum’) in certain eye creams and eye makeup removers,” says Sally.

How can I get rid of them?Check your cosmetics don’t contain any of the nasties just mentioned. If you’re getting milia around your eyes, ditch your usual eye makeup and remover – they’re likely culprits. “Use a gentle exfoliant that can be used near the eyes, like Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant, £32.70,” adds Sally. Persistent milia are best removed by a facialist who will steam the skin and gently lance them with a fi ne needle. Don’t try this at home!

Why the RED FACE?The diagnosis: Rosacea is one of the hardest skin problems to diagnose as it’s often confused with sensitive skin or acne. “It’s caused by fragile blood vessels that become hypersensitive to factors such as sunlight, extreme temperatures, pollution and diet,” explains Julienne Curran of skincare brand La Roche Posay. “Most people with rosacea will experience periods of facial fl ushing that may become permanent.” Visible blood vessels under the skin, stinging and small red bumps are other upsetting symptoms. The solution: Red wine makes it worse, as do hot showers, hot drinks, spicy foods and excessive exercising. “Look for skincare with vitamins CG and B3, which help fi ght the onset of redness,” says Julienne. “A moisturiser with UV protection is a must, as sunlight is one of the main aggravating factors of rosacea.” La Roche Posay Rosaliac XL SPF15 Moisturiser, £14.50, has a clever redness-concealing green tint. Clinique’s Redness Solutions range, from £14, is brilliantly soothing and can reduce fl are-ups too.

HANG IN THERE!Don’t abandon a skincare regime if you think it’s not working straightaway. It takes about 28 days for skin to renew itself and for you to see the difference.

with purifying charcoal and oil-mopping kaolin clays.

Murad Oil Control Mattifi er, £29.50,

prevents excess surface oil by

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La Roche Posay Rosaliac XL SPF15 Moisturiser, £14.50

Sarah Chapman Skinesis Dynamic Defence SPF15, £42

Need to know: MILIAWhat are these strange little white bumps on my face?“Those tiny, hard bumps that are trapped under the surface of the skin are called milia, and are a blockage of sebum and dead skin cells trapped in the follicle by a cover of skin,” says Sally Penford of the International Dermal Institute.CA

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