Dual Mode Hydrogen Generator Super Kit Please read this manual thoroughly and carefully before beginning. It contains useful tips and safety information, necessary for the extended enjoyment of this device. Please Note: This generator can produce hydrogen EITHER chemically OR electrically via electrolysis. These are entirely different processes and must be individually understood and prepared for. For that reason, they are separated in this manual to avoid confusion. ALSO: This manual covers our entire series of Stainless Steel Generators. Therefore pictures may vary from your particular unit or kit. When necessary, you will be made aware of any specific characteristics of your generator. The included electrode pack is used for electrolysis mode only! You must remove it from the generator during chemical mode! Before You Start… While the following chemicals have been chosen for safety and ease of accessibility, it is important to remember that, even though it may be perfectly safe for you, you may still be creating a hazard for other people and pets. Please be careful and don’t leave this device or any chemicals unattended. While hydrogen generation makes for a great science experiment, it is not meant to be used by unsupervised children! Distilled water is recommended, but you can use any tap water to start. The only consequence will be that you will need to clean the electrode pack sooner. IMPORTANT NOTE: The electrolyte used for chemical hydrogen generation in this generator (Sodium Hydroxide, NaOH or Lye) is highly alkaline and NOT MEANT TO BE USED IN THIS ELECTROLYSIS KIT! Here’s why: • Alkaline chemicals can react with galvanized or stainless materials and turn them black • This kit is designed to use the most delicate, environmentally friendly chemicals possible. • Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) makes the water HIGHLY conductive and while that is normally good in electrolysis, you have been provided with a highly efficient electrode pack. You will draw too much current, overheat, possibly boil over and you run the risk of overheating and even melting the container. You can also burn out the wires. Please stick to the recommended chemicals. Safety: 1. The high efficiency of your electrode pack is due to the large surface area and close proximity of the plates (~ 1mm). Be very careful when assembling the pack not to SHORT CIRCUIT THE PLATES! Look inside the gap and see that the plates are parallel and not touching BEFORE APPLYING 12 VOLTS!!!

2. Most important is eye protection. Although it is unlikely to splash the solution and even more unlikely to splash it into your eyes, but the consequence could be severe. Please wear eye protection when working with chemicals at all times. Fortunately, these chemicals would rinse out with water if needed. 3. Don’t use this device anywhere you can’t tolerate a spill! Didn’t expect the cat to jump up on the bench and knock everything over? Make sure the area is spill friendly. 4. This unit produces hydrogen and oxygen in stoichiometric (perfect) proportions. It has been referred to as ‘boom’ gas for a reason. If you are collecting the gas, ie. in a balloon, take care that it doesn’t ignite on you. It sounds like a canon!

KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN!!!! The use of a flash back arrester (safety check valve) is recommended. These are also available on Ebay. SEARCH: check valve, they’re about $2-3 USD This could prevent your application from sending a flame back into the rector, in the unlikely event that it sparked. Carbureted vehicles are more likely to backfire than modern fuel injected types. The “water loop” demonstrated in this manual is useful, but do NOT attempt to use it if you are connecting to a vacuum line. Your engine will suck the water right in from the hose. In fact, your generator is NOT RECOMMENDED to use under heavy vacuum conditions. It is preferred to connect to the air intake of your vehicle. Many users inject into the air filter compartment. Don’t force any hose or other connecting device over the output port. 3/8 or 5/16 vinyl hose is the correct size and should attach quite easily. The H2 port is firmly secured with epoxy but it could be broken loose if excessive force is used. The electrolyte for chemical mode (Sodium Hydroxide, NaOH or Lye) is highly alkaline! That is the opposite of acidic and potentially more harmful to you than an acid. Here’s why… There is such a thing as the pH scale, which is a measure of a material’s alkaline or acidic strength. The scale ranges from 0-14, with 7 being neutral (i.e. distilled water). Your skin is actually acidic to help kill any bacteria that may be present, fight infection etc. Your skin is somewhere between 4.5 and 6 on this scale. Acids will react enthusiastically with alkaline materials when given the chance. To demonstrate, just put a spoon full of baking soda (weak alkaline) into a partial glass of vinegar (weak acid) and see for yourself. (If you actually do this experiment, do it over a sink as it foams up quickly and would make a mess otherwise!) So please read the following safety considerations below. Your first batch of Sodium Hydroxide would have been included if not for shipping rules at the post office. It is the main ingredient in Red Devil drain cleaner from your grocery store. This will easily get you started but it is better and cheaper to buy ‘lye’ (sodium hydroxide) from the hardware store. The electrolyte for electrolysis mode is simply sodium bicarbonate (AKA baking soda from your grocery store) YOU CANNOT INTERCHANGE THESE TWO CHEMICALS! Sodium hydroxide is for chemical generation only. Baking soda is for electrolysis only. You may have heard of sodium/potassium hydroxide being used for electrolysis. Indeed it can be used to effectively increase current flow and ultimately hydrogen output HOWEVER it may corrode the electrodes inside the generator.

Pros and Cons of Each Mode: Electrolysis Mode offers ease of use, simple and fast on-off operation more suitable for short trips, less intense chemicals but lower flow rate (hydrogen production) Electrolysis makes HHO (called Brown’s gas) In most modern vehicles (ie those equipped with an oxygen (O2) sensor) the computer will detect the increase of oxygen present in your exhaust system and attempt to counter it by adding more fuel. This is exactly what you DON’T want. Typically, vehicles still enjoy a noticeable increase in power/fuel economy even with the extra oxygen present. If you are determined to squeeze all that can be had from this technology, you may want to consider adding a fuel injection enhancer. See “What’s next?” section at end of this manual. Chemical Mode offers very high hydrogen output and simple, electricity free operation. Oxygen produced forms an oxide on the aluminum resulting in pure H2 being released. This mode will result in the greatest gains for automotive applications due to high flow rate and O2 free output. It does not load the alternator as does the electrolysis mode resulting in even higher efficiency. Myth Buster: 1. Electrolysis is a very inefficient process. That is, your alternator consumes much more ‘mechanical’ energy from the engine than it produces through electrolysis into hydrogen. HHO injection will increase your fuel economy because your engine operates at about 25-30% efficiency. The added gases in the engine only aid the combustion process. Hydrogen burns 10X faster than gasoline and its addition results in a cleaner, more efficient and complete burn of the gasoline. 2. More is not always better! In fact, sometimes it’s less, especially in the case of HHO. If you were to keep increasing the HHO flow rate into your engine, eventually the increased mechanical load on your alternator would offset your gains and actually DECREASE your fuel economy. There is no perpetual motion and you can never get more energy out of a system than you put in. This generator and about 1 litre/minute will result in good, measurable gains for you. Higher flow rates may be achieved with a Pulse Modulator. 3. In chemical mode this generator will only aid your efforts to improve your vehicle. Within reason, the more the merrier when it comes to chemically derived, pure hydrogen. This is because there is no additional oxygen created or increased load on your alternator. Chemical Mode Operation: Safety: 1. The mixture you will be using can be near the higher end of the pH scale (highly alkaline) if mixed in high concentration. It will react with your skin (even more than a weak acid solution!) and potentially cause a skin irritation. I strongly recommend using rubber gloves. I have used bare hands in the past and although I am careful, I have inevitably got some on my fingers. This did not burn but did instantly create a very slippery film on my fingers that increases the chances of an accident and certainly cannot be healthy for you. 2. Most important is eye protection. Although it is unlikely you will splash the solution and even more unlikely to splash it into your eyes, the consequence could be severe. Please wear eye protection when working with these chemicals at all times. 3. Don’t use this device anywhere you can’t tolerate a spill! Didn’t expect the cat to jump up on the bench and knock everything over? Make sure the area is spill friendly in the event of the unexpected. KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN!!!!

The use of a flash back (safety check valve) is recommended. We include these when possible in your kit. These are also available on Ebay. This could prevent your application from sending a flame back into the rector, in the even that it sparked. You should note that while this is theoretically possible, it is extremely rare, especially in the case of fuel injected vehicles. Carbureted vehicles are more likely to back fire. Mobile applications are not our preferred use, but supplementing vehicle fuel seems to be the main interest of the public. If you intend on using your hydrogen generator in any non stationary application make sure it is secure and away from extreme heat. Be extremely careful as accidents can AND WILL happen. Don’t force any hose or other connecting device over the output port. 1/4 OR 5/16 soft vinyl or rubber hose is the correct size and should attach quite easily. The H2 port is firmly secured with epoxy but it could be broken loose if excessive force (especially rotational force) is used. A drop of oil over the hydrogen output port will make it easier to install/remove the vinyl hose. Set Up and Use: Remove the electrode pack from the generator! Do this by removing only the FIRST nut from each electrical terminal, inside the lid. The second (inside) nuts NEVER get removed. The electrical connector always goes between the two nuts on either terminal. Finger tighten or gently tighten with pliers or a small wrench. Your generator is designed to make substantial amounts of hydrogen on demand. That means the hydrogen is consumed as it is produced. The production of hydrogen will vary greatly, depending on your set up. The stronger the concentration of NaOH, the faster the reaction! As for aluminum, surface area is the key. A big cube of aluminum has lots of mass but little surface area and will generate hydrogen very slowly and will not react completely. Lots of small clean pieces, drill press shavings or filings will react the fastest. You have to find YOUR balance between long run times and good flow rates. TIP: Try lots of aluminum foil at first. It’s clean too! Later, make friends with someone at a machine shop and gather their aluminum shavings from the drill press or chips from the grinder! Mix your NaOH and water solution first, then add the aluminum. Put the water in the jar FIRST, then very slowly add the NaOH! It may get hot at first so wait a few minutes between scoops until you get used to it. A concentration of 18% by weight is ideal for FOR FASTEST REACTIONS. (225g NaOH per litre water.) Note: Use about 75g-100g/Litre for longer run times. Be careful not to overfill as the aluminum will displace some of the solution, potentially creating a nasty mess. Also, don’t overfill! You must keep the solution level well below the threaded portion of the jar or you will have solution being pushed out the hydrogen gas port instead of gas! It is best to keep the solution level about 1 ½ to 2 inches below the top of the liner. If you have a non-stationary application, start with a ½ to 2/3 reservoir, ONLY THEN add more later once you are sure it is not spilling. Helpful NaOH Information Fun NaOH Sol'n Calculator: http://www.handymath.com/cgi-bin/naoh5b.cgi

A sodium hydroxide solution will leave a yellow stain on fabric and paper. ... with a melting point 65.1 °C and density of 1.829 g/cm 3…Approx: 9g NaOH / tsp 1 mL = 1 cm3 1 US teaspoon = 4.92892159 mL 1 US tablespoon = 14.7867648 ml Therefore, for 1L of water use 225 g = 25 tsp = 8.5 tbsp, (use HALF to One THIRD for longer run times) ADD THIS VERY SLOWLY TO THE WATER, as there is significant heat energy released as the NaOH becomes Aqueous. Rule of thumb; 2-3 runs per chemical change. Run times can be set from 15 minutes to all night, depending on your electrolyte strength and Al. surface area. However, they are only a trickle by morning. If you are determined to use chemical mode, while start and stop driving AND are concerned about H2 pooling up; you need to either remove the gas hose or remove the aluminum to stop the reaction. ie. if placed inside a plastic mesh onion bag. H2 is tiny and light, (1/2 the weight of helium) and it will float away upwards at 45 mph if given the chance. If you need more, or a different output hose to connect your generator, it is recommended that this hose be quite soft and flexible. Soft materials will create a much better seal at the generator port. Flexible hoses are less likely to reposition themselves and tip over the generator, causing a spill. There is no need to clamp the hose at the generator, if it is soft and pliable as described. Polyethylene is the worst (it’s too rigid, don’t use it), vinyl is good and industrial rubber is best, but is much more expensive. Don’t force the hose over the output port as it could fracture the output valve. The hose has to be soft and pliable to make a good seal and be routable within the engine compartment but still tolerate high heat conditions. A flash back/check valve is always recommended. This as well as plastic hose are not always included as it is impossible to predict your application and would just increase the cost unnecessarily for those not wanting it. The flash back valve could save the generator, and maybe you, if your hydrogen application, fuel cell etc. creates a spark. The flashback arrestor, if included, looks like this:

Test the valve for flow direction before installing it by blowing through it. It will block air/gas flow in the reverse direction. Flow is ‘towards’ the wider half of the body. (The near centre parting line of the plastic. ie. left to right in the picture at left.

What’s Next? You can get more catalyst in your grocery store (Red Devil drain cleaner) or at your local hardware store. It is called lye and will say sodium hydroxide as the main ingredient. Lye is also available inexpensively in bulk, often even on Ebay for $1.00 or so per pound. You will most likely want to increase the concentration and find a source of small pieces of aluminum if you want the hydrogen flow rate to increase.

Your hydrogen generator is designed to produce hydrogen as it is being consumed. That is, it is not meant to build up substantial pressure. This is NOT the intended application of this generator However, it is the logical next step which has been anticipated. To create hydrogen under a nominal pressure (i.e. enough to blow up a balloon), the following technique has proven effective: IMPORTANT NOTE ON SEALING: IF YOU ARE USING A RUBBER LID your best seal will come from pushing the lid all the way onto the generator AND lowering the clamp 1 cm BELOW the indicating channel on the lid, so it clamps in the same place as mentioned above. Do NOT Over Tighten! Electrical Mode Operation: Note: Use Sodium Bicarbonate (baking soda), NOT Sodium Hydroxide for Electrolysis!!! Please read this section carefully and completely before beginning. It contains useful tips and safety information, necessary for the extended enjoyment of this device. This electrolysis has been designed as highly effective, educational “add on” to our chemically based hydrogen generator. However, should you want to experiment further, it will function very well in any sealed vessel (container) of your choice provided you follow these guidelines and the lid is large enough to fit the electrode pack through. This provides the user with maximum flexibility of operation. We also strongly recommend the addition of a 7.5 or 10A (amp) fuse, located as close as possible to the power source. While you may draw close to 10A, while running, anything is excess of that may generate too much heat for you. Too much added baking soda could lead to melting the wires and even potential ignition of the HHO! You may try 10A only when you are sure you are not overheating. Note: Any electrolyte becomes more conductive as it gets hot. Your current will increase about 50% from room temperature to 70C. If you run the unit too hard, it may boil generating unwanted steam and allowing even more current to flow, further worsening your heat problem. Easy Set Up: 1. Fill the generator about ¾ full of distilled water and add about a 1 tbsp of baking soda. Stir. 2. Place the electrode pack into the generator. Attach the wires to the connector inside the lid. Polarity, (-ve/+ve) is not important BUT THE CONNECTORS MUST GO BETWEEN THE TWO NUTS. DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE SECOND NUT, CLOSEST TO THE LID. FINGER TIGHTEN ONLY! 3. Close the lid, tighten appropriately and connect the hydrogen hose.

4. Apply 12 volts to the black & red electrical connector on the lid, preferably from a ‘switched’ source controlled by the ignition so you can not possibly forget to turn it off.

TIPS: Start with a small amount of electrolyte ( ½ to 1 tablespoon sodium bicarbonate/litre of water (baking soda)) and work your way up. If the wires get warm or the jar hot, you need to reduce the electricity flow by using less electrolyte. Your first indication will be warm wires and the jar will take more time to get warm. 18 gauge wires have been selected to warn you via wire temperature of an over current condition to protect the generator. If the jar becomes very warm or uncomfortable to the touch, you are running it too hard. Why do we need electrolytes anyhow???? You don’t but… Hydrogen production is directly related to current flow. The more current, the more hydrogen is generated. Pure water, by itself is a poor conductor. That is, it has a high resistance. We need to add impurities, such as baking soda to correct this. To demonstrate this, here are some measured current flows with your electrode pack: Distilled Water 0.2 Amps Rain Water 0.3 Amps Well (mineral)Water 0.5 Amps Add 1 Tbsp Baking Soda 8.1 amps (good) While distilled water is best, rain or tap water is OK too. You will have a little more cleaning to do, that’s all. A little sand paper, CLR (from the grocery store) or a wire brush will easily clean up the electrodes and connectors once disassembled. If they become too corroded with calcium or lime, they will not work well. Another problem with tap (mineral) water is that the minerals such as calcium and lime collect between the plates and do their best to short circuit your process. While it will never stop you from making hydrogen, it will slowly draw more and more current while NOT increasing you gas output. This runs down your batteries faster, makes you less efficient and generates more heat. Heat is your enemy! The unfortunate problem with 12 volt electrolysis is that the majority of electrical energy used goes into heat production, not electrolysis. While more current makes more hydrogen, we always need to be mindful of the heat not to have a mishap. Your high efficiency electrode pack has been

designed with this in mind. You get double the hydrogen output for any given current consumption and substantially lowered wasted heat dissipation! Even still, it is possible for you to boil the electrolyte, which you should try to avoid. If you need to run the generator hard (high output), our upcoming web site will offer useful tips. In the mean time you can run the hydrogen through a condenser such as a transmission cooler, available at any automotive supply store. You could add a small hose clamp if you felt it necessary. Your maximum output will depend on how much convection (air flow) you have around the generator. More air flow helps keep it cool. You can also consider adding a PWM (pulse width modulator) to increase your output and lower your heat. If you can’t touch the generator it is too hot. The baking soda, NaHCO3, will dissociate into CO2 and a brown residue will be left inside your generator. This happens above 70C. Electrode Maintenance: Periodically, your electrode pack will need to be cleaned. How often will depend on your application and how pure your water is. Distilled water is preferred. Unscrew the nylon bolts paying close attention to how it was assembled. The insulating washers located between the plate pairs are very important. Once disassembled, simply use a scouring pad, SOS pad, light sand paper, steel wool, wire brush etc. to clean off any mineral build ups. Be careful not to scratch the electrodes as any areas you damage will be subject to corrosion. Reassemble making sure the spacer nuts contact the electrode plate pairs and you apply 12 volts to the outside plates. Polarity is not important. Helpful NaHCO3 (aka Sodium Bicorbonate, Baking Soda) Information For generators with higher output electrode configurations (more than 4 plates) you will probably want to use more baking soda to achieve desired results. This is because your higher efficiency electrode depends in part on your electrolyte being highly conductive. 1 mL = 1 cm 3 1 US teaspoon (tsp) = 4.92892159 mL 1 US tablespoon (tbsp) = 14.7867648 ml NaHCO3 Density = 2.159g/mL so a TBSP is about 30g A bicarbonate and water solution will saturate at approximately 8 g/100 mL or 80g/ Litre. Adding more bicarbonate than this will not increase conductivity or cause harm to your generator. Therefore, for 1L of water use UP TO 3 tbsp for a saturated solution. We suggest 1 tbsp to start. Be careful not to over drive and over heat the generator! It can become dangerous.

Supplemental Info: Automotive and Mobile Applications The picture to the left shows a typical set up in a vehicle. Notice the water loop in the back. This is your free flashback arrestor! Half fill it with water and position it BELOW the level of the generator and air intake. The hydrogen is injected safely and discretely in the rear of the air duct, in the centre of the picture. Some important considerations are listed below:

• The use of a one way “check valve” is recommended if you think there is ANY chance of a spark being generated in your application and coming back up the hose to the generator. • The loop shown is actually a water trap and will help prevent this. A water loop will PROBABLY prevent any spark mishaps. Use your own judgment. It will also help catch any spills in case you overfill, go over a bump etc. • The loop needs to be BELOW both the level of the generator lid and the input of the engine so the water and/or electrolyte cannot flow and make its way to the engine’s air intake. A couple of inches of water in the loop is enough. • It is recommended to seal the generator as previously shown by firmly tightening the lid. If you plan to push the H2 through a water loop. That is because some pressure will need to be generated within the generator to push its way through the water. You will not be able to rely on the engine vacuum only and you don’t want to lose the hydrogen to a weak seal.

Connection to the Engine

Most modern vehicles have well sealed air intake systems. You simply need to drill a small hole (½ inch) into the air intake system, usually after the air filter, close to the engine but BEFORE any turbo charger you may have. Then feed the hydrogen hose into it, secure the hose well with tie wraps and seal the hole you made with silicone. Make sure the generator is well secured and any wires/hoses are not in danger of heat from exhaust manifolds, moving parts such as the fan etc.

In a carbureted vehicle the vinyl hose can then be routed to the air intake (make sure to seal it well) as on a fuel injected vehicle, or where shown at the white arrow at left, can be patched into the PCV hose with a “tee” connector. This is for “Positive Crankcase Ventilation” and will draw the hydrogen directly inside the carb, where it cannot escape.

You could try running it into the air filter on top of the carburetor, but this will probably not work since hydrogen is half the weight of helium and when let loose will try to ascend at 70 km/h (45 mph). The down draft of the engine’s vacuum may not be enough to draw in the hydrogen. Important: Make sure the generator is well secured, cannot tip or fall and all hoses and components are distant from high heat sources such as the exhaust manifolds! Dealing With Oxygen: If you run this generator in electrolysis mode, you create HHO. That means there is an additional portion of oxygen flowing through your engine. Most vehicles on the road today make use of an on-board computer (ECU) to monitor the engine’s functionality. By way of oxygen sensors in your exhaust manifold, your computer may see an increase of oxygen in your exhaust. It will then add a little more fuel to compensate. This will effectively “steal” part of your gains back from you. It is impossible to predict if this effect will be insignificant, drastic or somewhere in between. We cannot guarantee results for any particular vehicle, but there are a few things you can do to improve your chances, if you are not getting the gains you hoped. In most diesel and ALL carbureted engines, this is not a concern. 1. Make sure the installation is secure, with no leaks. 2. Try a run in chemical mode to ‘test’, to see if it is the oxygen causing the problem. Chemical mode yields PURE H2 so you can see how your engine responds before trying any additional modifications such as #2 or #3 below. 3. Try O2 extenders. These are mechanical devices to increase the distance between your O2 sensors and the exhaust manifold. This ‘desensitizes’ the sensor and permits a little more oxygen in the system before the computer reacts. This is a simple and inexpensive approach. Search “O2 extenders” on eBay. Expect to pay about $3.00 USD each. 4. You may try an EFIE. Electronic Fuel Injection Enhancers are used to tweak or adjust the electrical signal coming from the O2 sensors to the ECU. Many people have good success with these; however they cost about $40 and are a little trickier to calibrate. Make sure these come from a reliable and proven source. We recommend the following two sources for EFIE, should you want to consider using them: www.ebri.ca www.eagle-research.com NOTE: Carbureted vehicles and most diesels do not require EFIE or O2 sensor extenders. Wiring Tips: The first thing you should do it add a fuse as close to the battery or power source as possible. Not greater than 10 AMPS. You should start with a 7.5 AMP fuse until you get used to using the generator. This is not included in all kits as it adds additional expense for everyone, even those not needing it. We have attempted to keep your cost as low as possible. It is impossible to predict your application but automotive supplementation customers represent the majority, so additional hardware aiding installation has been included. 10 feet of primary wire can be

used or cut as needed to make use of the toggle switch. Unconnected crimp connectors are included as not to limit your particular application. Your toggle switch, if the illuminated type should connect as follows: Your positive battery terminal goes to the PWR (+ve) terminal (preferably ignition ‘switched’ power) if you can locate it! Connect the generator to the “ACC” (middle) terminal and “GND” goes to ground but this is only required to illuminate the toggle switch.

Dealing With Heat: If you are using your generator in electrolysis mode, you should know that, while this system has been made as efficient as possible, it still generates heat. That heat needs to dissipate somewhere. The more HHO you generate, the more heat will be created. We suggest starting with a 7.5A fuse until you get used to it. If you add too much baking soda, you will then be protected from over current. It you run the generator too hard (high current& high output) and do not add a fuse, you could melt the wires. PWMs (Pulse Width Modulators) will increase your output and lower your heat when used properly. Remember that all resistive elements, especially crimp connectors, will get warm, even hot once you get above 10 amps. Your generator has been designed to operate as efficiently and safely as possible, while producing high output at a low cost. That’s a lot to ask out of one product! It has been properly engineered and tested suitable for most applications. Although it may look thin, the wire was carefully chosen to safely provide all the current you should need, but also act as carefully designed ‘Negative Feedback Control System’. This clever system lowers the amount of power supplied to the generator when and if it starts to overheat. It is the only one of its kind in the world. While being helpful in preventing your generator from overheating, it is NOT a substitute for good judgment and common sense. 18 AWG wire is generally supplied to serve this purpose. It is rated at 16amps @ 25C. If you want to run this generator in higher current configurations, such as with a PWM, you should use heavier wire such as 16 or 14 AWG. It you want to achieve higher outputs, you will need to consider stronger electrolytes and the addition of a PWM. Pulse width Modulator. Please contact rob.williams@greensource.ca for further information. You should not blindly add more/different electrolytes without first understanding what you are doing. You could create a high current and potentially dangerous situation.

Typical PWM Wiring for Green Source supplied PWMs. Other modulator boards will vary in hook up, but be very similar.

Whether or not you purchased a pulse modulator from Green Source, you will find this useful. PWM (Pulse Width Modulator) Set Up and Use: It is a common misconception that a PWM lowers the voltage on a hydrogen generator, motor or other equipment. In fact, it is simply a very fast acting switch that turns on/off your generator many 1000 times per second. You get to set the “Duty Cycle” of the on and off times. That is, you set generator to be “ON” for example, 10% of the time, 40%, anything you want between 0-100%. You therefore are setting the “Width” of the “Pulse” of electricity that is applied to the generator. A slow responding older, analog voltmeter with a needle cannot respond that quickly. It will, in fact show the AVERAGE voltage you are applying. Ie if you apply 12 volts for 50% of the time, the meter will read 6 volts, a 67% duty cycle will read 8 volts. This is the reason for misconception earlier noted.

So why do you want a PWM anyhow?? Maybe you don’t! Your kit was designed to operate effectively without you requiring additional equipment. However if you want the highest output possible, you will probably want a stronger electrolyte and a PWM to control/limit the heat in the higher performance configuration.

Note the PWM waveform at left: It represents your generator being switched on and off. Traces A/B are both 50% duty cycle. They will result in the same current, heat and HHO flow within any HHO generator. Trace C is ‘turned down’. It is only switched on, approximately 10% of the time. This will result in lower heat, lower average current and voltage and LESS HHO. Trace D is turned down only a little

from max, maybe 85% on time. This will result in a minor reduction of HHO flow and heat output. PWMs allow the use of highly conductive (therefore highly efficient) Liability Statement: Hydrogen generation and HHO supplementation are experimental in nature and have known inherent risks! We have provided all reasonable safety information, but it is assumed the user will have researched the technology and be familiar with its benefits and risks PRIOR TO USE. By using the supplied equipment, you agree to release its suppliers and manufacturers from any and all liability, in regards to the product’s use or misuse. Unlike many others, Green Source generators have been designed with YOUR SAFETY as a top priority and can safely protect you from most of your own mistakes. Probably, the worst you will do is to melt a wire or boil your electrolyte. Other generators on the market have components that, in the event of an over-current condition can become excessively hot. This heated component can act as an ignition source for the HHO and EXPLODE YOUR GENERATOR. Our generators do NOT have internal components that can become dangerous. Our liability shall be limited ONLY to product replacement, should a defect be identified at the time of delivery.