SHAYMAOWAISESAADATSHAYMA SAADAT, AN INTERNATIONALLY PUBLISHED

FOOD WRITER, STYLIST AND PHOTOGRAPHER, FOCUSESON DELECTABLE DISHES FROM HER HERITAGE

COUNTRIES OF AFGHANISTAN, IRAN AND PAKISTAN,WHICH SHE REFERS TO AS SILK ROUTE CUISINE. BORN INLAHORE, PAKISTAN, THIS WORLD BANK-BABY GREW UP INTHE USA, NIGERIA, KENYA, BANGLADESH AND THE UK. SIX

YEARS AGO, TRUE TO HER NOMADIC STYLE, SHAYMAMOVED FROM ROME, WHERE SHE WORKED FOR THE

UNITED NATIONS, TO TORONTO. SHAYMA IS THE AUTHOROF THE FOOD-MEMOIR STYLE BLOG, THE SPICE SPOON. IN

JULY 2011, THE SPICE SPOON WAS SELECTED BY THEINDEPENDENT NEWSPAPER AS ONE OF THE WORLD’S 50

BEST FOOD WEBSITES. HER WORK HAS APPEARED IN ANDBEEN RECOGNISED BY THE GLOBE AND MAIL, CBC, BBCGOOD FOOD MAGAZINE, THE NEW YORK TIMES, HELLO!

MAGAZINE, OK! MAGAZINE, EDIBLE TORONTO, THE KITCHNAND FOOD52, AMONG OTHERS. SHAYMA SPOKE TO AFSHAN

SHAFI IN AN EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW ABOUT ALL THEASPECTS OF HER FOOD JOURNEY

G a s t r o n o m y

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WHY DID YOU GET INVOLVED IN FOOD?Creativity and cooking is a part of my identity. Itformally started in 2009, when I moved to Canada afterliving and working at the United Nations in Rome, Italyfor several years. During my early days in Toronto, Ifelt a strong sense of social isolation. It was during thistime that I found inspiration in the kitchen by recreatingthe smells and tastes, which reminded me of mychildhood. The women in my family have alwayscooked intuitively; passing on their recipes through oraltradition. I had learnt tocook from them in thesame way. Inspired by mymother and my father’sside of the family – who isAfghan with a hint of Irani– I began photographingmy food and writingvignettes from mychildhood related to thesedishes. Eventually, thisturned into a food memoir-style blog.WHAT OR WHO ISYOUR INSPIRATION?I am a Lahori, and thedeep traditions and historyof food from our part ofthe world informs my writing and my cooking style.My inspiration also stems from my multi-ethnicheritage, (Pakistani, Afghan and Persian); myperipatetic life – having grown up as a World Bankexpat-kid (the United States, Nigeria, Kenya, theUnited Kingdom, Bangladesh and Italy); and my life inToronto, today. I want to respect the culinary traditionswhich are a part of my heritage; but I also want myfood to be a reflection of my life, here, today, in

Toronto. A dessert I really enjoymaking in the summer is kheer; ricepudding, served with ghee-roastedOntario peaches and a scattering ofwild blueberries.WHAT IS YOUR EARLIESTMEMORY IN CONNECTIONWITH FOOD?Some of my earliest memories offood are tied to my paternalgrandmother, whom weaffectionately called Mader (mother,in Farsi). On a beautiful Springafternoon in Lahore, Mader, mycousin Saadiya, and I would sneak

into the kitchenwhile the rest ofthe family wasenjoying a siesta.The three of usloved makingVictoria SpongeCake – together,we would sift theflour, beat the eggwhites till theywere cloud-like,and then once thecake layers hadcooled down, wewould spread

Mader’s thick, cinnamon-scented homemade apricotjam between the layers. We would enjoy having slicesof the cake in the garden of our Gulberg home duringtea time, with the rest of the family, in the lateafternoon. WHAT IS YOUR PHILOSOPHY ABOUT FOODAND COOKING?I am always interested in the narrative surrounding

food. To me, food is so much more than just the dish infront of you – it is about the customs associated with itand the stories and family ties that go with it. I love itwhen you eat something and a memory of a moment isembedded in that dish – and I want that to comethrough in my cooking; I want my guests, gatheredaround my table, to be able to taste this feeling.WHO HAS INFLUENCED YOUR COOKINGSTYLE THE MOST?When I first started documenting my family’s recipeswith the help of my mother, I did it with greatexactitude, as an homage to thedishes I ate growing up. But asthe years went by, I wanted moreand more for the dishes to reflectmy life as a former expat-child,from Lahore, who now callsToronto home, too. I admire theoeuvre of chefs like GregMalouf and Massimo Bottura –who respect the culinarytraditions of the countries theyhail from and concomitantlycontinue to push the boundariesand create modern dishes whichare a throwback to the food theyate growing up. It is theinfluence of chefs like them,coupled with the culinaryknowledge I have gained frommy mother, which informs mycookery style every day. WHAT WOULD BE YOURDREAM DESTINATIONREGARDING FOOD?I would love to go with myhusband to Alba, Italy, in late-Autumn, during the WhiteTruffle Festival.WHERE DO YOU LIKE TOEAT WHEN YOU GO OUT?This summer, my husband and Ihave really enjoyed going to thiscasual little place called TheSlip, on the Harbourfront. It’s alovely open-air space on LakeOntario where you can sit, chatand enjoy a cooling drink at theend of the day with a few smallplates like tacos or fried chickenwith kimchi. It’s more about theatmosphere than the food. A fewhours spent there, and timestands still for us, as we savourthe Toronto summer. When in Lahore, I love going to

Dynasty with my Uncle, Mamoon – I really missPakistani-style Chinese food here in Toronto, and theSzechuan soup at the Avari is to-die-for.WHAT INGREDIENTS WOULD YOU BRING ONA DESERT ISLAND WITH YOU? YOU CANONLY PICK FIVE!I’d bring ingredients to make the ultimate comfort food– dal chawal – a dish which reminds me of my home inLahore. I would bring masoor dal, basmati rice, salt andred chilli pepper. And one always needs to round themeal off with something sweet, so I’d smuggle in a bar

of Valrhona chocolate.IF SOMEONE INVITES YOUTO THEIR HOME FORDINNER WHAT SHOULDTHEY COOK?I’d be honoured to be invitedfor a home-cooked meal andwould eat whatever thehost/hostess prepares, withpleasure. Recently, my friend,here in Toronto, grilled chickenand red bell peppers on thebarbeque in her garden – sheserved it with arugula,crumbled goat’s cheese,avocado and her special lemonand Dijon mustard vinaigrette.We dined in the garden, alfresco, with the family,enjoying the meal with warmbread. It’s real food, made withlove – and that’s the best mealone can have. WHAT’S NEXT FOR THESPICE SPOON?Because of my life longassociation with food from myorigins, I have been able to startanother career, which allows meto show Pakistan in a positivelight, despite the sad stories weread about in the media. I havea lot of interesting projects in thepipeline – there will be morespeaking engagements,newspaper and magazinecommissions, pop-up events atrestaurants and a few workshopson Afghan cuisine. I’ll also beteaching workshops in theUnited States and Europe withinthe year – I’ll post theinformation on my website andvia my Instagram account. Dofollow me there.

RAPIDFIRE

YOUR BEST SAVOURY DISHLobster Biryani

YOUR BEST DESSERTA very simple Chocolate Fudge Ring

Cake

FAVOURITE DISH (NOT COOKEDBY YOU)

My late maternal grandmother’sMutton Yakhni Palao, eaten with

dollops of her homemade yoghurt. Itwas soul food

FAVOURITE INGREDIENT TOCOOK WITH

Persian saffron or Pakistani pink salt

ONE CUISINE YOU CAN LIVE ONChatpatay desi treats – Papri Chaat,

Pakoray, Gol Guppay, Samosa Chaat –I’m a true Lahori at heart!

ONE RECIPE YOU WANT TOPASS ON

Risalamande, which is a recipe handeddown to me by my half-Danish

mother-in-law. I hope that one day myson will make this dish, even when I

am not around anymore, andremember that it is something hismother used to make for him tohonour the memory of his great-

grandmother.

Shayma lives in Toronto with herhusband and son. You can follow

Shayma’s culinary journey onInstagram @SpiceSpoon or Twitter

@SpiceSpoon

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KARACHI: Actor-in-Law PremiereBox office hit Actor-in-Law hosted a fabulous Premiere atNueplex Cinemas in Karachi in the presence of all the big-wigs of the Pakistani cinema and fashion.

Mehwish Hayat Sameena Peerzaada Samina Ahmad & Atiqa Odho

Uzma Alkarim,Tehmina, AyeshaTammy Haq & Khalid with family

Danish Taimoor & Ayeza Khan

Uzma Alkarim & Sabina Khawar Abdi & Ayaz Anis with friends

Risalamandewithstrawberrycoulis —a Danish Christmas treatThis rice pudding (known as kheer), made withbasmati rice, should not be a mushy dish; each ricegrain should be visible and remain intact. If you feelthe rice is undercooked and the milk is beingabsorbed too quickly, just use some of the warmmilk being heated in a saucepan on the side andadd in small quantities to loosen the pudding.I have added only ½ cup of sugar because the coulisadds sweetness; however, if you have a sweettooth, feel free to add up to a whole cup of sugar.

Makes 4 to 6 servingsKHEER6 whole green cardamom pods4 1/2 cups whole milk3/4 cup basmati rice1/2 cup granulated sugar1/2 cup slivered almonds1/2 cup sliced almonds, for garnishfreshly ground black pepper

STRAWBERRY COULIS2 tbsp water1/2 cup granulated sugar1 pound strawberries, hulled and chopped into ½-inch pieces

MAKE THE KHEER: Wrap the cardamom pods in anewspaper and crush with a rolling pin. The seedsshould not be crushed to a dust. The result shouldlook somewhat like freshly cracked pepper. Discardthe green skin of the pods.In a small saucepan, heat 1½ cups of the milk overmedium-low heat; do not bring to a boil, but keepwarm while you prepare the kheer. In a large heavy-bottomed pan, add the remaining 3 cups of milk,the rice, crushed cardamom seeds, sugar andslivered almonds. Turn the heat to high. As soon asthe milk starts to steam, turn the heat to low andcover with a lid.Every 7 to 10 minutes, remove the lid and stirgently, from the bottom up, to ensure that the rice

is not sticking to the base of the pan. After about 40minutes, the milk should be thickened but not entirelyabsorbed. The pudding should have a soft, velvetyconsistency and not look congealed.Taste the rice. If it seems undercooked, add some ofthe reserved warm milk, replace the lid and continueto cook for 7 to 10 minutes. When done, the basmatirice grains should be intact. Transfer the kheer to acontainer and allow it to come to room temperaturebefore covering and refrigerating at least 5 hours, butpreferably overnight, to set.Make the coulis: In a medium saucepan over mediumheat, add the rhubarb, cinnamon stick, water andsugar. Stir well. Allow the mixture to bubble awayuntil the rhubarb looks soft and has melted down intoa sauce, about 20 minutes. Add the strawberries.Continue to cook until the strawberries have softenedand melted into the sauce, about 10 to 15 minutes.Turn off the heat, discard the cinnamon stick, andallow the coulis to come to room temperature. Thecoulis can be prepared in advance, kept refrigerated,and brought to room temperature or warmed up priorto serving with the kheer.TO SERVE: Ladle chilled kheer into individual bowlsand drizzle with coulis. Top with a sprinkling of slicedalmonds and a dusting of fresh black pepper.

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