Gastronomic Routes to Extramadura
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Transcript of Gastronomic Routes to Extramadura
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GUIDE OF
GASTRONOMIC ROUTESTO EXTREMADURA
JUNTA DE EXTREMADURAConsejería de Cultura y Turismo
Dirección General de Turismo
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A route is an organised itinerary, a proposal for a path tobe followed. Routes can be organised according to agreat number of different stimuli, being its design moreor less difficult depending on the aim and subject of it.For instance, it is not difficult to design merelygeographical, ecological or architectural routes sincethese routes are usually arranged around an area, andconsequently are easy not only to trace on a map butalso to fix some uniform proposals to limit their contents.To establish a route according to gastronomy is muchharder due to its diversity, to the impossibility of settingborders to gastronomy and finally to the differingtraditional recipes. A guide of gastronomic routes cannotbe an enumeration of restaurants where the cuisine of thearea is served or of shops where typical products can beacquired. The traveller’s route must be a way alongwhich to trace both things, gastronomy and products and the adventure of enjoying them. On the opposite, a guide must be a stimulus so that people running shops or restaurants, growing vegetables or breedingcattle have at the disposal of the traveller everything they may ask for.This guide, without wanting to forget anybody, has setoff around the Extremaduran region with the intention ofattracting the attention to our most emblematicgastronomic products and create, around them, someroutes the traveller can follow feeling the certainty of ourproposal either in history or tradition and leaving totheir luck and zeal the enjoyment of the culinarypleasures. We must also warn the traveller thatgastronomy is not something uniform and that in thefreshwater fish route he will find marvellous proposalsfor kid, or big game dishes as well as cold dishes andsweets and pastries and he will come across the samesurprise in any of the proposed routes. The important thing is to walk around Extremadura andto enjoy its tasty and varied cuisine, both in the purity ofits most traditional ranges and in the creativity andimagination of many of the present restaurant owners.
PROLOGUE
Croquis de la ciudad de Badajoz con la ubicacion de sus MuseosCroquis de la ciudad de Badajoz con la ubicacion de sus Museos
1 IBERIAN HAM Jerez de los Caballeros, Oliva de la Frontera, Fregenal de la Sierra, Higuera la Real,Segura de León, Cabeza la Vaca, Calera de León,Monesterio, Fuente de Cantos and Zafra. 8
2 SHEEP CHEESE Villanueva de la Serena, Campanario, Castuera,Benquerencia de la Serena, Cabeza del Buey,Monterrubio de la Serena, Esparragosa de la Serena,Zalamea de la Serena, Higuera de la Serena,Valle de la Serena and Quintana de la Serena. 14
INDEXNº ROUTE LOCALITY
Croquis de la ciudad de Badajoz con la ubicacion de sus MuseosCroquis de la ciudad de Badajoz con la ubicacion de sus Museos
3 LAMB Azuaga, Granja de Torrehermosa, Campillo deLlerena, Valencia de las Torres, Villagarcía de la Torre,Llerena, Reina, Casas de Reina, Fuente del Arco,Valverde de Llerena, Berlanga and Ahillones. 20
4 COLD DISHES Talavera la Real, Mérida, Santa Amalia, Medellín,Don Benito, Guareña, Palomas, Puebla de la Reina,Hornachos, Ribera del Fresno, La Zarza and Alange. 26
5 GAME Badajoz, Villanueva del Fresno, Alconchel, Cheles,Olivenza, Alburquerque, La Codosera, San Vicentede Alcántara and Valencia de Alcántara. 32
6 OIL Coria, Moraleja, Gata, Robledillo de Gata,Descargamaría and Montehermoso. 38
7 KID Plasencia, Pozuelo de Zarzón, Villanueva de la Sierra,Pinofranqueado, Caminomorisco, Vegas de Coria,Nuñomoral, Las Mestas and Ríomalo de Abajo. 44
8 PAPRIKA Navalmoral de la Mata, Madrigal de la Vera,Villanueva de la Vera, Valverde de la Vera,Losar de la Vera, Garganta la Olla, Jaraízde la Vera, Jarandilla de la Vera, Cuacos de Yuste and Pasarón de la Vera. 50
9 GOAT CHEESE Navalmoral de la Mata, Belvís de Monroy,Mesas de Ibor, Castañar de Ibor, Navalvillarde Ibor, Guadalupe and Cañamero. 56
10 TENCH Cáceres, Malpartida de Cáceres, Arroyo dela Luz, Casar de Cáceres, Brozas, Alcántara,Garrovillas de Alconétar, Cañaveraland Torrejoncillo. 62
11 FRUIT AND SPIRITS Piornal, Navaconcejo, Cabezuela del Valle,Jerte, Tornavacas, Aldeanueva del Camino and Bañosde Montemayor. 68
12 WINES Trujillo, Montánchez, Cañamero, Don Benito,Aceuchal, Villafranca de los Barros, Almendralejo,Fuente del Maestre, Los Santos de Maimona,Santa Marta de los Barros, Villalba de los Barros,Puebla de Sancho Pérez and Fuente de Cantos. 74
13 FRESHWATER FISH Orellana la Vieja, Orellana de la Sierra,Talarrubias, Navalvillar de Pela, Herreradel Duque, Fuenlabrada de los Montes,Castilblanco, Valdecaballeros, Puebla de Alcocer and Esparragosa de Lares. 80
Nº ROUTE LOCALITY
Speaking of good ham withoutthinking of the Iberian Pig is asimpossible as to imagine it awayfrom its pasture lands androoting among acorns. Thisgastronomic route that will goaround the Iberian Ham as anemblematic product comingfrom the pig, will rest itstravelling rucksack near tablesand counters where the pig willshow itself magnificently in anyof the pork varieties sodissimilar and diverse as the art
and knowledge of the expertsthat seasoned them.The world around the pig porkis full of flavours smells andcolours can only be explained by walking around the naturethey live in.The whole route is pasture land.Beautiful, dense, like a rusticgarden. Pasture land is not onlynature but also craft. It is a self-sufficient ecosystem thatoffers all the necessary optionsfor a varied and rich pantry. It is
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IBERIAN HAM
1 GUIDE OF GASTRONOMIC ROUTES TO EXTREMADURA
Route of the Iber ian Ham
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a sea of cork oaks and holmoaks over a green shawlconsisting of grass, herbs andwild flowers that lovingly rockthe acorns that fall from theladen branches and keep themto be used and enjoyed by thepig that generously andthankfully will turn them intoham. Some say wisely that infact hams hang from holm oaksand they are not wrong when
they speak of the magic linkbetween the holm oak, the acornand the Iberian pig.The province of Badajoz keepsthe best and most extensivepasture land existing today andour chosen route is the mostdense and productive. It is inthis paradise that the Iberian pigis born, lives and then dies, butthe result is the Iberian ham. Thepig is anthropologically thetotemic animal of theExtremaduran people andgastronomically, our mostprecious treasure. The killing ofthe pig was a culinary ritual inthese lands and the base of theirtraditional food so much so thatboth in high cuisine and in poor
Bellota” the pig must haveenjoyed the acorn pastures fromOctober to April living only onacorns and stubble. If the Iberianpig is fed at any time withfodder, the ham from it will becalled “jamón de recebo” andthe pig has never been out in thepasture lands the ham comingfrom it will be called “jamón decebo”. The Denomination ofOrigin “Dehesa Extremeña” hasbecome a warranty of therepresentation and seriousnessof our ham which todaycompetes with the best productsof other Denominations ofOrigin with far better qualityand which is enhanced by itswell known dietetic value whichrecent important research grantsto the “jamón Ibérico” ascompendium of theMediterranean Diet.Trying not to offend anybody,far less our neighbours, we candeclare Jerez de los Caballeros asthe most important point on ourroute of the Iberian Ham and agood starting point of our visitis “Salón del Jamón” (a hamtrade fair) which takes place thesecond week of May and which,no doubt, is nowadays thegreatest showroom of thisproduct and all the products
Route of the Iber ian Ham
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Jerez de los Caballeros, starting point in the Iberian Ham route.
or sustenance eating, the recipesgo round a rich variety of porkdishes and a great caloric sourceto be found in the pork fat. andin the cold meat (embutidos)kept as indispensable, andsometimes only, in the pantry.The “Jamón Ibérico” is thatwhich comes from the Iberianpig, and this is an accuratedefinition. The Iberian pig isprobably the only breed which isgenetically pure and that hasbeen maintained up to presenttimes and that probably comesfrom pigs that entered thepeninsula ages ago fromMediterranean Africa. So thatham can be called “Iberiano de
Route of the Iber ian Ham
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stifling) summers that makehams sweat the fat from thegrazing land to let them standfor no less than 18 months in thecellars in a slow maturation ofits aromatic, tasty meat andinfiltrated with the fat needed tomake it juicy and pleasant.Fregenal de la Sierra, Higuera laReal, Segura de León, Fuente deCantos, Zafra, Oliva de laFrontera and theaforementioned Monesterio andJerez de los Caballeros make upa route in which starting theeating ritual with Iberian Hamand some other cold meat wecan also enjoy a rich variedcuisine of wild products such aswild asparagus, cardoons, wildpotatoes (criadillas),all of thembeing abundant, healthy andfresh and ready to be picked upout there in the wilderness. Wecan also taste a variety of gamedishes such as partridge in oil orwoodpigeon rice. In Fuente deCantos pork will be served with
coming from the pig. In asplendid and colourful display,all the nuances competence ofthis area are on show, bothindustrial and handmade.It is a pleasure to taste themagnificent helpings born froma natural traditional cut that thedifferent stalls can offer thevisitor. Similarly you can answerthe call of the “Cañas de lomo”(cured chine), the “salchichón”(salami) or the “chorizo colorao”all of them unparalleledexamples of what a pig can offeryou.Also Monesterio holds its“Fiesta del Jamón” this onetaking place in September andwhere all visitors are treated to a“bocadillo de jamón ibérico”and many prestigious abattoirsand drying rooms are wide openfor everybody to visit them. Any town in our route isprovided with ham ready forfair competence.All of them are located in theSouth hills of the province withan average height of 500 metresand a special microclimate withdry winters and hot (but not
Route of the Iber ian Ham
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lamb offal stew (chanfaina decordero). In Segura de León youcan order mushroom pork, inJerez de los Caballeros pork loinTemplar-style and in Higuera laReal pig trotters. Regardingsweets and pastries the onesfrom the Convent of “LasClarisas” in Zafra and in Jerezde los Caballeros the “bolloturco” and the “desenfados”.Wines must be from El Zaposoand Matanegra.It would not be fair if wefinished this routes withoutpointing out that there are someother areas in Extremadurawhere ham, fine ham, is also queprotagonist such as the ones wecan find in Montánchez hills,Arroyo de la Luz, Hervás, Bañosde Montemayor, and Piornal inthe province of Cáceres, andBarcarrota, Salvaleón andOlivenza in Badajoz.
Ham drying
Higuera la Real
Monesterio
Fregenal de la Sierra
Segura de León
Cabeza la Vaca
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First you must fillet the loinwith a bit of salt. Take them oneby one and put them into afrying pan greased with lardand then into a container.Sprinkle some freshly groundblack pepper, peeled grated
IBERIAN PORK LOIN TEMPLAR-STYLE
From Jerez de los Caballeros
almonds (half done in the samelard) and the juice of two orthree oranges, and a pinch ofsaffron. Pour the lard previouslyused and let it boil for 15minutes. After that, it is ready tobe served.
RECIPE
The “Comarca de la Serena” isone of the most beautiful naturalspaces for the extensivebreeding of sheep. The merinosheep, that together with the pigforms the magic duo ofExtremaduran livestock, find inthe harsh but honest lands ofExtremadura the habitatnecessary for its breeding anddevelopment.Nowadays the sheep census inExtremadura is approximately3.7 million heads being mostly
merino. This represents 50% ofthe total sheep in Spain.All the historical evidence leadsus to believe that the merinosheep is an animal originatingfrom Extremadura and that itwas known here centuries beforethan anywhere else. Itsadaptation to the pasture andgrazing lands of our regionmakes it an essential andprecious element in the wholeecosystem of our region; as arole fertilising element and
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SHEEP CHEESE
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Route of the Sheep Cheese
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thereby regenerating the area in which it lives is vital. Inparticular en “La Serena” wheresoil barely covers the rockmantle, the merino sheep has an important role as fertilisertaking place a symbiotic process:sheep-shepherd-land, which isvital for the survival of the way of life and the economy of this area.From such a magnificent sheepthe sheep cannot be anythingelse but excellent. Cheese from“La Serena” is solely made from
natural merino sheep milk andhand made. Minimummaturation period is sixty days.To make a kilo of cheese it isnecessary the production of 15sheep since the daily productionof milk of a merino sheep isabout 0.3 litres.Depending on the degree ofmaturation, cheese will becreamy, greasy, and ivory incolour, that is what we call“torta”, semi-mature and witheyes, or else mature with hardpaste and rind and with aslightly peppery taste. One ofthe mysteries of this wonderfulcheese, and especially of the“torta”, is the process of
Sheeps at the dehesa
Making of handmade cheese
Utensils used in handmade cheese
Not to be unfair we have tomention its sister, the “Torta delCasar” identical in every aspectand worthy of the same praise.We have followed this routetracing the smell of the cheesebut we must also be ready toenjoy rich, tasty, ancestralcuisine of the region. It isessentially shepherd food thattastes of “Mesta” (medievalassociation of cattle farmers) andtrashumance being active, firmand authentic.Any place is good enough totaste a lamb dish which inCastuera and Cabeza del Bueyreach the category of sublimewith their stewed lamb recipes.There is no magic formula, noteven for the age of the animal,although experts from “LaSerena” say that the essential bitis that it must be done in a lowheat so that the meat is
coagulation, which takes placewith the kennet obtained fromthe pistils of the thistle.Once curdled, wisdom andpatience of Extremaduranshepherds will give shape andlife to this unparalleled beautyof the Extremadurangastronomy, which is thehandmade cheese from “La Serena”.This cheese has passed by far allthe trials it has gone throughboth in tastings and incompetitions, having been the“Feria del Queso de Trujillo”(cheese fair) and “Salón deMerino de Castuera” (merinosheep exhibition) its bestshowrooms.Nowadays, the confirmation ofits economic and commercialimportance is essentially valuedby the recognition given by the“Denominación de Origen”. Allthe experts regard the “torta” as one of the fundamentalcheeses and it occupies aprivileged position on the cheese boards of the bestrestaurants not only in Spain but world-wide.
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Sheep herd grazing
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“brewed” has its own flavour.Adding a dash of olive oil somecloves of garlic, a bay leaf and a glass of dry white wine is also essential.Along with the stew, this areaoffers the visitor some otherrecipes for lamb such as “encardincha”, that is, withartichokes, wild asparagus orwhite grapes and potatoes. If it
is the season, trying lamb tails or dishes of tripe or organs is a must.The route offers some othergastronomic possibilities. Forinstance in Castuera we cantaste “ajo de cardillos” (garliccardoons), “gazpacho de huevosfritos” (fresh tomato soup withfried eggs), the “salmorejo deconejo” (kind of rabbit salad)
Sheep milking
Typical sheep “torta”
their sweets such as the“borrachuelos” (a pastry friedwith kirsch and wine) arewidely known. In Monterrubiode la Serena, apart from their oilgastronomic jewel, they canoffer the “peladilla al horno”(roasted suckling pig). And inHiguera de la Serena, cheesecroquettes and country chickenstuffed with cheese are wellworth a rest to try a bite.
and as a dessert, nougat. InCampanario the “cardillos ensalsa de huevo” (cardoons inegg sauce) it is worth giving it atry as well as the prickled carps,and if possible lizard in almondsauce. The “Cachoreña” (a mashof fried egg, garlic, bread andcoriander), one of the mostemblematic cold dishes inExtremaduran lands, is originalfrom Cabeza del Buey. Similarly,
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Cheese maturation
Zalamea de la Serena
Benquerencia de la Serena
Castuera
Cabeza del Buey
Ruta de l Jamón Ibér ico
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Ingredients: Liver, lungs, heart,kidneys (just a few) and a smallamount of flank meat,everything from the lamb, cut insmall pieces, some oil, onion,garlic, bay leaves, red hotpepper, a pinch of home madetomato purée and white wine.Pour some oil in the cauldronand add some garlic, bay leaves,and red hot pepper. Oncebrowned, remove them out andput them in the mortar. Then,add some onions in the cauldronand once golden, put them aside
OFFAL STEW
From Fuente de Cantos
together with the otheringredients and everything iscrushed. Low heat the saltedmeat making sure it doesn’tstick to the bottom and addwhite wine and water ifnecessary. When the meat isalmost tender (after 30-45minutes) add the seasoning witha bit of home-made tomatopurée and let it boil. About 10minutes before taking it fromthe heat, some people add asmall amount of lamb bloodpreviously boiled.
RECIPE
We can almost walk the wholeroute accompanying the Masterof Santiago while he walkedabout the countryside visitingmany of the settings andinterests that his Ordain had inthe south of the province ofBadajoz. In these lands Romans,Arabs and Old Christians wovea net of uses and customs sotightly that now they aredifficult to delimit.The same happened with thesmells and tastes from the pots
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THE LAMBROUTE
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The Lamb Route
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boiling in the country ranges, allof them so full of shades thatguessing their origin becomes ahard task due to the closerelationship between thedifferent cuisines.Basically lamb dishes born along with the slow sauntering of the sheepherds that grazed in the harsh,endless lands of the area. Food of roaming shepherds looking for herbs and stubble insun and cold. Food of longsilences or a humble cauldronbut simple, honest and authentic. Sheepfold
generous dash of white wineand a spoonful of paprika andanother of flour, let it boil slowlyand lovingly, without hurrying.Once the meat is tender addsome black pepper corns, friedgarlic, red pepper, fried kidneyand a dash of olive oil , allcrushed in the mortar. Let it boilabout fifteen mi-nutes.
We can hardly find a cuisine thathas worked with such a widerange and good using all thepossibilities that the lamb offerseither roasted or stewed. Ofcourse the countryside has itsstew that needs a lamb with fat.We cut it in small piece, salt it,and fry it with garlic, onion andbay leaves. Once golden add a
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Sheep cheese
Lamb offal stew
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If we follow this ritual we willenjoy an excellent stew as goodas nearly all we will be offeredin the restaurants of the area. Inany case, this recipe is open tomultiple variations and we caneven state that every village andeven every household can offera personal magic touch that cango from almonds to mint orpepper, just to name a few. This route apart from lamboffers many more gastronomicpossibilities in big game and
pork gastronomy. Llerena is oneof the settings of the traditionalExtremaduran cuisine being
Roasted lamb leg
Lamb chops
Since the recent creation of the“Specific Denomination:Cordero de Extremadura”(CORDEREX), the qualitycontrol of this meat isguaranteed.
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famous its “Sopas doradas” orthe “sopas molineras” withcumin and red hot pepper,stewed hare, partridges withsage, “conejo a la Inquisición” (soused rabbit then grilled andlastly fried) and the sweets andpastries from “Las Clarisas”Convent. In Usagre we can tasteexcellent stewed mushrooms.Campillo de Llerena is wellknown for its “gazpacho deconejo” (fresh tomato soup withrabbit) which they call“galopeado”. In Azuaga we canstart by trying a cress soup tocontinue with a “cochofro”(suckling lamb and egg) andfinish with an almond soup. InBerlanga you can be offeredsome “cuchifrito de borrego”. EnUsagre the “gazpacho pastoril”and in Casas de Reina the“jerimoje matancero” (pork withtomatoes, pepper, garlic,onion...), a salad made with thepork nape of the neck andkidney. Finally in Valverde de laLlerena they cook unparalleledstewed partridges which arethen preserved in oil.
Azuaga
Valencia de las Torres
Llerena
Berlanga
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Ingredients for six people: 1k or1,5k lamb or kid, 200 gramskidney of the animal, 200 gramsonion, 4 cloves of garlic, a redpepper, a spoonful of paprika,half a glass of wine (local homemade wine, if possible) adecilitre of oil, a big bay leaf, aspoonful of flour, for peppercorns, half a litre of stock (or justwater), parsley and salt.Cut the lamb in small pieces andadd some salt. Put the ironcauldron on the heat with someoil and fry the garlic. Once fried,put them aside. Then put thelamb and the entire kidney.Sauté them on a high heat andstir with the slice till goldenbrown. Remove the kidney thatwill be used later and add thechopped onion and the laurel.Once brown, sprinkle thepaprika. Add the wine andcontinue to stir the lamb with
LAMB STEW EXTREMADURAN STYLE
the slice while the wine reduces.Add the flour and after sautéingit with the meat, add the stock.Let it boil for 45 minutes.While the stew boils crush thepepper corns, the fried garlic weset aside, some drops of oil andthe red pepper in the mortar.Once crushed add the friedkidney till you get a fine paste;this you can be thinned withthe stew stock or a ladle full ofhot water if there is not muchstock. Add this paste to the lambthat will already be tender.Sprinkle some snipped parsley,let it boil ten more minutes andthe stew will be ready. Serve in the same container it was cooked.
RECIPE
WatercressThe cold dish, either“gazpacho”, pickle or salad hasa great importance in theExtremaduran gastronomy notonly in the recipes but in thephilosophy that a great part ofour of the construction of oureating anthropology contains.This extreme and hard region oflong, stifling summers, farmingand cattle-raising, that is, offarmers and shepherds fromdawn to dusk needed acomplete, refreshing diet that
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Route of the Cold Dishes
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Vegetable garden
Products from the Extremaduran vegetable garden
allowed them to endure thefatigues of the long workinghours with the least possiblecaloric effort. So, all ourgeography is brimful of colddishes, soups o salads thatcombine magnificently the mostnatural, spontaneous product toturn water and four basicproducts from the vegetablegarden into beautiful, succulent recipes.
From the “limón” from LasHurdes to the “cojondongo”from Tierra de Barros, goingthrough the “escarapuches”(freshwater fish, grilled and insalad)from the Siberia or the“zorongollo” (potato, pumpkin)from la Vera, the Extremaduransustenance gastronomy has beendotting its recipe book with avaried, harmonious number ofsoups and cold dishes.
In any chosen route we can finda variety of Extremaduran“gazpachos” and pepper andtomato salads. In Don Benito wecan taste the “ajo de calabaza” (acold pumpkin dish), the tomatosoup or the “molinera” soup(bread, garlic, cumin...) InMérida, “gazpacho de conejo”(chilled tomato soup with
Consequently, to underline theirpresence in our gastronomy andtheir importance in the diet ofthe Extremaduran people wehave arranged a route that couldbe dedicated to many otheraspects of our gastronomy, butin examining this aspect of ourcuisine one soon realises itsimportance.
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Zorongollo
Gazpacho blanco
Route of the Cold Dishes
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rabbit), and “patatas a laimportancia” (a sort of potatofritters in cumin sauce). InMedellín we can try stuffedcourgettes and a delicious “pistode peces” (dish of friedvegetables with fish). InGuareña the “gazpacho” withwild asparagus or “gazpacho alhorno”. In Hornachos, lamb
kidneys in orange juice and as adessert “resoleo” spirit.La Zarza has one of the mosttypical recipes of our cuisine “elpollo a lo Padre Pero” (chickendish with tomatoes, peppers,onions, garlic, cumin...) andPuebla de la Reina is apilgrimage setting to enjoy ourmost traditional gastronomy, the
Cachorreña
Tomato and Lettuce salad
“Cojondongo”, the“Zorongollo”, the “GazpachoBlanco” (fresh egg soup), froglegs, rockrose partridge, “conejoen salmorejo” (kind of sousedrabbit in salad), and a dessert“Repápalos dulces” (fried breadand egg in milk and cinnamon). The wines from D. Benito andMedellín are excellent toaccompany the dishes in this route.
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The tomato, king of the fertile valleys in Extremadura
Alange Puebla de la Reina
HornachosGuareña
Croquis de la ciudad de Badajoz con la ubicacion de sus MuseosCroquis de la ciudad de Badajoz con la ubicacion de sus Museos
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It has its origin in the“macarraca” dish devoid of allkinds of artificiality. People hadit at noon in hot days and it wasdone on the spot, either on thereaper’s stool or with theshepherd’s provisions, sinceboth of them took with them thenecessary ingredients: freshwater in a earthen pot fromSalvatierra, oil, vinegar, salt andgarlic in oil containers and oxhorn salt containers, and alsobrown wheat bread that stayed fresh for days in thecanvas sacks.One just had to crush, in a holmoak wood bowl, some garlic,bread and plenty of oil. Thenvinegar, salt and water was
COJONDONGO
Puebla de la Reina
added and lunch was ready.Some times they added biglumps of bread. It was ofteneaten accompanied with somegrapes or olives. Bear in mindthat the aim of this dish was torefresh but not to fill becausework had to be resumed. Lateron part of the water waseliminated, and a thin paste was obtained to which abundant chopped tomato,pepper and onion was added.This is the present “cojondongo”which continues to fulfil itsoriginal duty: to refresh. But asit grants such vitamin valueit is taken with no garnish but
as a starter.
RECIPE
Every village in Extremadurahas its own game recipes. This isa singular cuisine with such asensitive identification that itsimportance within thesustenance gastronomy is reallyimportant. This is anspontaneous, makeshift cuisinethat takes advantage ofeverything available flying inthe sky or scampering throughthe countryside and cooks itwith anything left in the pantry.Many days every year this was
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Wild Oar Hunting (Roman mosaic)
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Bucks of fallow deer in their habitat
the only source of food thatreached many Extremadurankitchens. So, to disguise theroutine, a thousand recipes withpartridge, rabbit, pigeon or apig poached in the wildernesshad to be tried out. Thisimagination exercise done by thehousewives has given rise torecipes, all of them so rich andfull of nuances that we can stillenjoy them today and whosefirst sophistication strokes weregiven by some monastic recipes.
This daily gastronomy took aprivileged place in theExtremaduran recipe book and ithas stayed creative and open upto the sixties when gameindustrial exploitation and(consequently its steadydisappearance due to abuse andcatastrophes) started. Nowadaysit is almost a dish for privilegedpeople and what formerly wasa frequent, ordinary meal todayis something exceptional.In any case, this is a gastronomy
The chosen route is sprinkledwith establishments where gamedishes still have an importantpart to offer.In Badajoz, together with the“Migas Extremeñas”, which is a
stron-gly linked with ourtradition, to our way of being, tothe most defining essence of ourhistory as people. Gastronomyof deep roots, of wild meatstasting of nature and freedom.
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Rice with hare
Rabbit dish
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presentation and hospitalitydish, we can find game recipessuch as rice with hare, stewedpartridge, or pigeons in almondsauce. In Alburquerque, roastedwild boar leg, partridgecroquettes and beans withpartridge. In La Codosera the“emberzao” (cabbage dish with
beef and bacon) and “conejo a lacazadora” (a rabbit dish). In SanVicente de Alcántara cabbagewith maw, rice with cod andchicken in almond sauce. InValencia de Alcántara, rice withpigeons. In Cheles “ajo de peces”.In Alconchel “ternera en ajocabañil” (beef), “lecechillas de
Venison Villanueva style
ternera” (gizzard) and Partridgewith cabbage. To finish,Olivenza with it originalPortuguese-Spanish recipes, coddishes, dogfish in green sauce,pork stew, and the magnificentdesserts such as “técula-mécula”(rich almond cake), marzipan, or“asubias”(pumpkin filling cake).Emblematic dish in our gamegastronomy is PartridgeAlcántara style. This is aconventual recipe which hadinfluenced French cuisine. Inthis recipe the partridges arestuffed with foie gras andtruffles and macerated in Portfot two days.
The Game Route
36
Wild boar stew Valencia de Alcántara
Alburquerque
Alconchel
San Vicente de Alcántara Técula mécula
Ruta de l Jamón Ibér ico
3737
Ingredients: A partridge perperson, a bunch of aromaticherbs, eight truffles, 100 gramspork lard, 50-75 grams homemade partridge foie gras andtwo litres Port.Gut the partridges, which mustbe tender. Once cleaned, stuffthem with truffles cut in bigchunks and previously boiled insome Port wine and the foie grasand put some salt and whitepepper. Fix them trying to givethem a good shape and
PARTRIDGES ALCÁNTARA STYLE
macerate them in Port andaromatic herbs for two days. Onthe third day take them out ofthe marinade and fry them on ahigh heat with pork lard in acasserole. Once brown let themboil in its own gravy adding themarinade. Once ready take themfrom the heat. Now they areready to be placed in glazedpottery dishes and covered in gravy.
RECIPE
Extremadura gives over 250.000ha. of land to olive groves. Theareas in Extremadura with ahigher production are “Tierra deBarros” en Badajoz and “Gata-Las Hurdes” in Cáceres. Thereare different kinds of olives. Themost widely spread are the“morisca”, “carrasqueña” and“verdial” in Badajoz and the“manzanilla cacereña” and“corniche” in Cáceres.
38
THE OILROUTE
6 GUIDE OF GASTRONOMIC ROUTES TO EXTREMADURA
Olives
The Oi l Route
39
Ingredients for a salad
Olive picking
Extremaduran virgin olive oilhas a high quality. It colourranges from pale yellow to darkgreen, depending on the methodused for the extraction and the ripeness of the olives itcomes from.At a national level Extremadurais the third region in olive oil
production, about 29 millionkilos. All the extra virgin oliveoils from Extremadura haveunparalleled colour and taste,and a great richness of smellingand tasting sensations. A greatpart of the rich Extremaduranculinary culture is based on thevirtues of our oils and they are
wisdom of the housewives inthe way they used the virginolive oil explains the succulenceof the recipes mentioned andgives a different touch to thecreative cuisine in our best
indispensable in our mostemblematic recipes: soup, stews,“gazpachos”, “migas”, salads,“repápalos” or fried sweets and pastries.The naturalness and ancestral
The Oi l Route
40
Gazpacho extremeño
The Oi l Route
41
Cheese in oil
restaurants in whichExtremaduran oil is thedistinctive touch in their menus.The chosen route has one of themost expressive oils both in tasteand colour and it can becompared to any of the oils inTierra de Barros, where is
especially worthy of mention theones from Los Santos deMaimona or the ones fromMonterrubio de la Serena.The cuisine on this route issimple but enormously tasty, fullof deep tastes which leave itstaste on the palate. It is a cuisine
Escarapuche
with home made wine; in Gatatoast with oil and inDescargamaría, its wine. InMontehermoso, orange salad,the broad beans soup, the beansstew, the “jefe” (liver and porkblood) and as a dessert, “bollosescaldones” (flour, garlic,aniseed, bay...).
from vegetable gardensand kids.
In Coria, the “gazpacho blanco”and the “patatas al buen pastor”(potatoes with pork ribs). InMoraleja the “papones” (bread,rice and egg soup), in Hoyoslamb with oreano and a goodnumber of mushroom recipes. InRobledillo de Gata pork chine
The Oi l Route
42
Olive groves Hoyos
Gata
Plasencia
Robledillo de Gata
Ruta de l Jamón Ibér ico
4343
Ingredients: kilo oranges, 100 gramsblack olives, an onion, salt, oil and vinegar.Peel the oranges and cut them in slices.Finely chop the onion and add theolives. Dress with salt, good winevinegar and olive oil.
WINTER SALAD
RECIPE
Lamb and kid meats are basic inthe traditional Extremaduranrecipes since pork was mainlyused as cold meat.Kid meat has great prestige inmany areas of our gastronomicgeography and it is preferred for its more rustic, natural taste to lamb.Its breeding is absolutelyuntamed following their motherin the continuous wanderingaround the rocky places looking
44
THE KIDROUTE
7 GUIDE OF GASTRONOMIC ROUTES TO EXTREMADURA
Goats herd
The K id Route
45
for herbs and the low branchesof the bushes.It is a lean, firm, very aromaticmeat so both stewed or roastedit does not need to haveanything added to give it arotund, authentic taste.Nowadays the presence of kid at
the butcher’s is limited to thebreeding areas and it is reallyhard to obtain in the markets inother parts of the region. It is ameat and a gastrono-my whichneed to be looked for andconsequen-tly it is desired and longed for.
Goats herd
Handmade goat cheese
Cocina”, and it goes into LasHurdes, a beautiful land, cleanand full of natural spaces.Cuisine in Plasencia is full ofmushroom dishes, pickles, troutand roasted kid. Going aroundLas Hurdes we can taste in
The established route to pursuethis cuisine starts in Plasencia,one of the most alive andcreative centres of the presentExtremaduran gastronomy,increased by the recent creationof the “Escuela Municipal de
The K id Route
46
Typical kid stew
“Martes Mayor” market in Plasencia
The K id Route
47
Goats herd in its habitat
Caminomorisco “cuchifrito decabrito” (kid with garlic, parsley,clove...); in Las Mestas the“limón” ( a kind of salad) and inRiomalo de Abajo the “bogasfritas” (a kind of friedfreshwater fish ) and roasted kidleg with bay.
Pinofranqueado the “patatasviudas” (potatoes stewed withgarlic and pepper) and thestewed lamb. In Vega de Coria,scrambled eggs with brains andkid’s trotters; in Nuñomoral the“cazuela de rebujones” and kidshepherd style. In
The K id Route
48
Roasted kid leg
Caminomorisco
Riomalo de Abajo
Pinofranqueado
Ovejuela
Ruta de l Jamón Ibér ico
4949
Cut the kid in small pieces andfry them in abundant oil andonce golden place then in aniron casserole and add a bit ofchilly pepper. Cover with waterand let it boil. When the kidneys are boiled take them
KID EXTREMADURAN SHEPHERDS STYLE
out and crush them in a mortar together with a someraw garlic and red peppers, and pour everything into the cauldron, letting it boil till the sauce thickens. Servevery hot.
RECIPE
This route goes along the waysof a genuinely Extremaduranproduct. It is not in vain thathistory traces its birth inthis land.
Pepper reaches Spain withColumbus who, together withsome other products, offered itto the Catholic King and Queenin the Monastery of Guadalupe.The monks, in seeing itsgastronomic excellencies, let’snot forget that Guadalupe was
50
THE PAPRIKAROUTE
8 GUIDE OF GASTRONOMIC ROUTES TO EXTREMADURA
Peppers drying
The Papr ika Route
51
the cradle of the best conventualcuisine in Spain, supplied it andspread it around the convents,being the Hieronymite fathers in Yuste Monastery the first to dry pepper and to use it as a preserver.Paprika is linked to La Vera, anarea privileged by nature andwatered by the river Tietarwhich goes through it in gorgesand torrents and whosemicroclimate allows that,together with its lavish forestsand fertile valleys it flourishes.The pepper to be used inpaprika manufacturing starts its
cultivation in March in seedbedswhere it stays until May, when itis transplanted to terracedgrounds. There are three kindsof peppers: sweet, bittersweetand chilly. In October it ispicking time and it is donemanually selecting the fruit inperfect degree of maturation.Peppers start the drying processtypical in La Vera in hearth withoak tree or holm oak tree woodand they are turned over byhand until they reach thehighest degree in its threeessential characteristics: aroma,taste and colour.
Paprika factory
Pimentón de la Vera” isanswerable.Paprika is an essential elementin Extremaduran traditionalgastronomy and it is awonderful condiment andpreserver for our pork products
After that, the milling takesplace in the processingindustries (in stone mills) till auniform, fine red powder isobtained for whose optimalquality are purity the“Denominación de Origen
The Papr ika Route
52
Extremaduran cold meat, whose most important seasoning element is paprika
Migas cacereñas
The Papr ika Route
53
in such a way that for a longtime and due to the importanceof the pig slaughtering in thetraditional economy in thisregion, paprika was called “the red gold”.The paprika route is sprinkledwith recipes where the magictouch of personality anddifferentiation is given by itsusage. So, Lamb and kidgastronomy, so closely related to
La Vera distinguishes from someother areas in Extremadurabecause of the usage of paprikain all its dishes: the “corderosansero” (stewed lamb withpotatoes, carrots...), the“caldereta verata” The “frite almodo de la Vera” the“torteruelos” or roasted legs.Moreover, this route is rich invegetable garden recipes such aspepper salads of all kinds, the
Tomato soup
Fried eggs with paprika
fresh broad bean stew fromNavalmoral de la Mata, the“habas peludas” (broad beans)with rice from Jaraiz de la Vera,the “patatas aborregás”(potatoes with onion, garlic andpaprika) from Madrigal and the“zorongollo” all along this route.In Cuacos de Yuste the monasticcuisine continues to thrive:“bacalao al estilo delMonesterio” (cod), “huevos devigilia” (poached eggs with cod)or trout in almond sauce. InJarandilla its potato soup isrenowned as well as its kid andits scrambled eggs withmushrooms.Desserts in the area are: “labadila” (kind of custards) andthe “cochones” (sweet chestnutsin milk and cinnamon.
The Papr ika Route
54
Navalmoral de la Mata
Cuacos de Yuste
Jarandilla
Aldeanueva de la Vera
Ruta de l Jamón Ibér ico
5555
Ingredients: (four people): 800grams cod snout cut in fourpieces and soaked in water, 300grams potatoes, 400 gramsspinach, four cloves of garlic,half a decilitre oil, fourspoonfuls of stock, onespoonful of milk, two boiledeggs and salt.Clean and wash the spinach andboil it in salted water, drain itand squeeze it with your hands.Slice the boiled eggs. Peel thegarlic and crush it in a mortar,add a pinch of salt and a fewdrops of oil, thin the mixturewith water. Peel the potatoesand slice them (not very thin,like the eggs) salt them and fry
COD MONASTERY STYLE
them in half the oil. Cover thepieces of cod in flour and frythem in the oil left. Place thepotatoes in a earthen casseroleand on them place the cod, pourthe oil used and add the stock.In the same oil and containeryou fried the potatoes, sauté thespinach, place on the cod andcover them with egg rings. Pourthe mixture from the mortar.Finally put it in the oven on alow heat and let it cook for 10 minutes.
RECIPE
The low hills usually are thenatural habitat of theautochthonous goats (“retintas”and “veratas”) where they makegood use of the spontaneousgrazing lands and theundergrowth. Goats are mainlybred for their milk production, adense, floral milk that will turninto different, marvellous kinds of cheese.In Extremadura there aredifferent types of goat cheese
56
THE GOAT CHEESEROUTE
9 GUIDE OF GASTRONOMIC ROUTES TO EXTREMADURA
Goat milk
The Goat Cheese Route
57
whose differences are due to thehand making, that will offerdifferent textures, aromas andtastes. Goat cheese is usuallycompact without eyes inside andranging in colour from white tobone colour. It is made withfreshly milked milk and withanimal rennet usually obtainedfrom the rennet stomach of the
kid themselves. It is an austere,frank cheese, the result from apoor, sometimes marginaleconomy and preserves all thespontaneity of the wild flora and the open air.Among all kinds ofExtremaduran goat cheese themost widely renowned are thosefrom “Sierra de los Ibores”,
Goat herd
Goat cheese industrial fabrication
Extremaduran gastronomybeing used in a number ofrecipes, either in salads oraccompanying the meats fromour pasture land.
nowadays protected by the“Denominación de Calidad”which guarantees its reliabilityand commercialisation.Goat cheese has joined the
The Goat Cheese Route
58
Salad with Goat Cheese
Goat Cheese
The Goat Cheese Route
59
Its gastronomic route is muchinfluenced by the cuisine inGuadalupe Monastery, whoseranges represented a kind ofphilosophy in the way of eating
and cooking in the 15th and 16thcenturies, which later on hadimportant repercussion on thecreative cuisine. Being a cultgastronomy, for kings, lords and
Sirloin steak with Ibores cheese
Toast with Goat Cheese
priors it managed to cross theMonastery threshold and reachthe people’s ranges. Still todaythe Monastery has an inn with agastronomy of really highquality in whose dining-roomswe can enjoy ancestral recipes ofthe conventual gastronomy suchas the “ajo de bacalao” (cod
The Goat Cheese Route
60
Belvis de Monroy Bohonal de Ibor
Castañar de Ibor Mesas de Ibor
Utensils for the handmaking of goat cheese
dish), “tortilla cartujana” andthe “rosca de muégado”(ring-shaped honey rolls).In Castañar de Ibor you cantaste pork loin roasted in goatmilk and in all the villages in theroute you can taste excellentroast kid.
Ruta de l Jamón Ibér ico
6161
Ingredients (12 people):6 eggs, 2egg shells full of oil (for thedough), lemon and orange peels,1 litre honey, 200 grams floorand coriander. Measure the oil you are goingto need for the dough with theegg shells and pour it into thefrying pan with the lemon andorange peels. Warm it up andtake it from the heat. In themeanwhile beat the eggs. Oncethe oil is cold, add the eggs,continue to beat and add thecrushed coriander then add a bit
ROSCA DE MUÉGADO
Guadalupe
of flour and take it from theblender, adding the rest of theflour at the same time as youknead the mixture with yourhands until ready ( when itdoesn’t stick to the container).Make some threads with thedough and fry them in abundantoil. Once fried and cut in smallpieces pour the honey,previously heated, over them.Mix everything and give it theshape of a thick ring. Place it ona round tray. Once cold, you candecorate it with meringue.
RECIPE
It would not have been fair ifwhen designing Extremadurangastronomic routes, we hadforgotten about the tench, anautochthonous pond fish whichhas the aftertaste of fresh mudof still waters. Those who loveits taste say that the tench has tobe eaten fresh, fried and roughand so must it be, although itsimportance in the surroundinggastronomy and the passionpeople feel for it have opened a
62
THE TENCHROUTE
10 GUIDE OF GASTRONOMIC ROUTES TO EXTREMADURA
Pond in Malpartida de Cáceres
The Tench Route
63
symphony of tastes where itsmeat, especially if they are big,allows a rich variety of recipes.In the last weeks of August thevillages in our route take turnevery year to host the “Fiesta dela Tenca”, one of whose mostimportant activities is, apartfrom the tasting, the contest ofdishes that have been wideningthe number of recipes.The route, gastronomicallyspeaking, is very rich and variedincluding emblematic places of
our present gastronomy such as Cáceres, Casar de Cáceres or Alcántara.Starting from Cáceres, withoutdoubt the Extremaduran townwhich currently offers the mostvaried and prestigiousgastronomic offer eithertraditional or innovative and atwhose table we can taste wellknown recipes: “gazpachocacereño de lujo” (which isserved accompanied withgame), lamb stew, fried tench,
Fried tenches
Fiesta de la Tenca
known today for its sheepcheese (torta de oveja) quitesimilar to the “Torta de laSerena”, although born formcoarse-wooled sheep and not
and as a dessert “pastelesborrachos” (kind of tipsysponge) or “biscuit de higo”(fig cake).Casar de Cáceres is world-wide
The Tench Route
64
Fried Tench
Caldereta de Tencas
The Tench Route
65
from merino sheep and with aslightly milder taste.The “torta del Casar” is a uniquejewel and its degustation is amust and after or before that
you must try “tencas encacerola” and as a dessert “tortade dátiles” (date cake). In Brozassoused potatoes with tench. InArroyo de la Luz “moje de
Tench salad
Tench
tencas”, pickled rabbit and“guiso de bodas” and to finish“engañabobos”. In Garrovillaspicked tench and offal stew andin Alcántara, cradle of a gretatpart of the presentExtremaduran gastronomy, werecommend “ajo de bacalao”and the two most emblematicrecipes of conventual cuisine,pheasant or partridge Alcántara style.
The Tench Route
66
Fishing contest
Arroyo de la Luz
Casar de Cáceres
Torrejocillo
Garrovillas de Alconétar
Ruta de l Jamón Ibér ico
6767
Ingredients: 1 kilo tench, 1/8litre oil, an onion, a glass of drywhite wine, a spoonful of oil,paprika, garlic, parsley and salt.After cleaning and gutting thetench, fry them and put them ina casserole; fry the choppedonion in the same oil and a bit of
FRIED TENCH EXTREMADURA STYLE
flour and Paprika from La Veraand put all this on the tench.Crush in a mortar the garlic anda twig of parsley and add it tothe tench. Let it boil for a whilemaking sure they don’t break.Once ready, take them from theheat and serve them hot.
RECIPE
Those who have seen it claimthat there is nothing morebeautiful in the whole worldthan the Jerte valley when thecherry trees blossom. Thissensitive, quiet, natural valleyhave all the ingredients for anunforgettable route that will beaccompanied by a simple butsucculent, authentic gastronomy.The valley, hidden in thefoothills of Sierra de Gredos and
68
THE FRUIT AND SPIRITSROUTE
11 GUIDE OF GASTRONOMIC ROUTES TO EXTREMADURA
Ripe cherries
The Fru i t and Spi r i ts Route
69
sheltered from winds andfavoured by a respectful,moderate microclimate, is anorchard where, together with thecherry, the quince, plums, pears,
figs and chestnuts are grownand then, the forest offers itsraspberries, blackberries,gooseberries and mulberries.Apart from fruit exportation
Fruit manipulation in Jerte
Jerte Valley
and flavours. The initial successof the kirsch (cherry eau-de-vie)has extended to other fruits suchas plums, pears, raspberries andlater on to spirits of really highquality whose wide rangeincludes among others, cherry,plum, blackberry or raspberry.The eau-de-vie and the spirits
(over 5 millions kilos cherriesand 1 million kilo chestnuts),The Association of Cooperativesof the Jerte Valley started in 1989a fruit distillation process basedon three grounds: ecologicalfruit fermentation, handmadedistillation made in stills and thenon existence of artificial colours
The Fru i t and Spi r i ts Route
70
Fruit Salad
Natural Extremaduran Fruit
Fruit spirits
The Fru i t and Spi r i ts Route
71
from the Jerte Valley arenowadays one of the best, mostprestigious products inExtremaduran gastronomy. Thearea, apart from fruit and spiritsis plentiful in mushrooms, troutand kid. This is a harsh, austeregastronomy but it is varied andnowadays even more so due to
the tourist attraction of this route.In Tornavacas its winter salad(orange, black olives and a dashof olive oil) is famous. In Jerte,the potato soup, and raspberrieswith honey and cream.Cabezuela del Valle preparesunforgettable pickled trout. In
Cherry and raspberry dessert
kid and in Hervás, after havinga walk around the old Jewishquarters, trying its “caldo cano”and its trout with thyme is a must.
Navaconcejo fried trout stuffedwith a rasher of cured ham. Ifwe go up to Piornal whenmushrooms arte in season we’lltaste a great variety of recipes.Here we can also try its roasted
72
Cabezuela del Valle
Piornal Aldeanueva del Camino
Tornavacas
The Fru i t and Spi r i ts Route
Ruta de l Jamón Ibér ico
7373
Fry them slightly in a bit of oil.In the same oil fry garlic, somechopped cured ham and pinenuts till golden. Add a bit offlour and fry it till golden browntogether with the juice of a
TRENCHES JERTE STYLE
Navaconcejo
lemon and a bit of water. Pourthis sauce over the trout and putin the oven for 10 minutes.Adorn with lemon slices andchopped parsley.
RECIPE
Extremadura has 72,994 Ha. Ofvineyards (4,850 in Cáceres and72,994 in Badajoz) divided in 6vine growing, winemaking areasincluded today in the“Denominación de OrigenRibera del Guadiana”. The vastextension of our region makes itpossible for every area to haveits own grape varieties, soilconditions and ownmicroclimates which add to the
74
THE WINEROUTE
12 GUIDE OF GASTRONOMIC ROUTES TO EXTREMADURA
Black grapes
The Wine Route
75
richness and the variety of thedifferent “Ribera de Guadiana” wines.Together with the traditionalvarieties of white grape(“pardiña”, “cayetana” and“montúa”) new varieties arebeen planted both white(“macabeo”) and black(“cencibel” and “garnacha”),widely spread in the nationalvineyard and some very selected
foreign varieties (cabernetsauvignon, Merlot orChardonnay).This allows an outstandingimprovement of our wines andabove all, a hopeful future in“crianzas” and “reservas”opening up a market that wastraditionally oriented to theproduction of young wines.The wine route is designedtrying not to leave out any area
Grape harvest
In Almendralejo are famous the“migas”, the tomato soup andthe pork stew. In Aceuchal thegarlic soup and the “sopa deantruejos” typical in carnivaltime and impressive for itscomposition. In Montánchez theblood soup and the “huevos a lahortelana” (poached egg withcured ham and “chorizo”). InPuebla de Sancho Pérezscrambled eggs with wildasparagus. In Los Santos deMaimona “bacalao a la cantina”(Cod dish); in Fuente del
and the traveller will take a longroute from the centre to thesouth of Extremadura.If we set off in Trujillo, beautiful,monumental town, we will bestarting our route in one of themost venerated kitchens of thisregion and which maintains inmany of the public ranges thetradition and the essence of ourmost authentic gastronomy:scrambled egg with truffles,“gallina trufada” (a kind of meatcake), “carnero verde” (muttonin green sauce) or lamb stew.
The Wine Route
76
Vineyard
The Wine Route
77
Maestre “adobo de guarrino”(pork dish) and mushroomsstew. In Villafranca de los Barros“gazpacho” and in Fuente deCantos the “caldillo” and theoffal stew, a humble dish madeup with the poorest parts of thelamb, but which has acquiredthe category of excellence and towhich this beautiful placededicates a celebration on thelast Sunday of April, in whichevery year the most expert cookscompete to show their art in themaking of this recipe.
Extremadura wines
Wine cellar
All the wines that accompanyour dishes are special to ourregion and have even wonawards for the flavour and taste.
Let’s not forget either to try agood Extremaduran champagne(cava).
The Wine Route
78
Trujillo
Almendralejo Puebla de Sancho Pérez
Zafra
Ruta de l Jamón Ibér ico
7979
Ingredients: 1/2 kilo whitebread, 1/8 litre oil, 100 gramssmoked fat bacon, 50 grams drypepper, garlic, paprika and salt.It must be bread from theprevious day (not fresh). Slice itand place it in a serving dishand add salted water withpaprika. Once the bread is soft,drain thoroughly. In the
MIGAS FROM TIERRA DE BARROS
meanwhile fry the smokedbacon and cut them in smallpieces. When golden add thechopped dry peppers . Onceeverything is ready add thebread slices and stir with a slideso it is crumbled and golden.When the “migas” are goldenbrown and hot they are ready to eat.
RECIPE
Extremadura is the Spanishregion with more kilometres offreshwater banks than any otherdue to the numerous, importantnet of dams and reservoirsamong which in La Serena,regarded as the biggest inEurope. Most of the hydraulicsare relatively recent as they werebuilt to convert a vast extensionof dry land (by water miracle)into fertile, productive plainsand valleys. However
80
THE FRESHWATER FISHROUTE
13 GUIDE OF GASTRONOMIC ROUTES TO EXTREMADURA
Fishing in a boat
The Freshwater F ish Route
81
freshwater fish culinarytradition can be traced back farin time and it is an essential partof the sustenance economy.Practically the whole region,crossed in the north by the Tajoriver and in the south by theGuadiana river, have enjoyed arich, varied freshwater fish
cuisine which was part of thedaily offer in the market andwhich took housewife out of ajam when there was nothing else to put in the pot, and thatwas often.The route chosen to trace thepresence of the freshwater fishin our gastronomy observes the
Anglers
This is a landscape withbeautiful hills and undergrowthwhere we can also find CíjaraHunting Natural Reserve.Extremaduran freshwater fishcuisine, unlike other regionswhere it is usually fried fish,cooks fish in a number ofdifferent ways ranging fromsalads to pickles.A lot of kinds of fish are usedbut the culinary nobility withwhich some of them are treatedsuch as carps, eels and trout.This route is also intensivelyattractive in game, especiallybig, gastronomy, cold dishes and desserts.Among the most traditionalrecipes is the “escarapuche depeces”(grilled fish in tomato,pepper and onion salad), the“moje de peces”(aromatic herbssoup) “peces en ajo molinero”(freshwater fish gazpacho) andpickled carps.Going along the route we canstop in Orellana la Vieja no taste
greatest concentration ofcollected water in the worldwith La Serena, Orellana, Zújar,García Sola and Cíjara dams.
The Freshwater F ish Route
82
Pickled Barbel
Moje de peces
The Freshwater F ish Route
83
the “macarraca” the “peces enajo molinero”, the fish stew, anexcellent dish with bird gizzardsas a dessert “flores” (kind ofhoneyed puffed pastry). InHerrera del Duque along with
the freshwater fish we will enjoyan excellent big game cuisine:“sorda de jabalí” (mincedseasoned wild boar meat), wildboar stew and venison ragoutand winter gazpacho with dried
Fish from Extremaduran rivers
Guadiana river
The Freshwater F ish Route
“bollos dormíos” (kind of sweetegg bread), “buñuelos”, “roscasraborratas” (fried pastry) andthe “mantecados” (lardy cakes).Talarrubias is famous for the“ajo de peces” and the “bogasasadas”. Esparragosa de Lareshas excellent home-made wineand many game recipes.
wild boar meat. In Peloche itscold dishes are famous: the “ajoblanco” and the “escarapuche depeces” or wild boar loin. InNavalvillar de Pela, apart fromexcellent fish fritters, its soupsare famous: “masmaría” (withgarlic, bread and egg), and the“poleás” (a hot milk soup) andnobody can leave withoutenjoying its sweets and pastries:
84
Castilblanco
Orellana
Valdecaballeros Herrera del Duque
Ruta de l Jamón Ibér ico
8585
Take the freshwater fish (carp,tench, barbel,...) and place them,without removing the scales, onlive coal or holm oak kindlings.Once they are brown on bothsides remove the scales and thefish bones. Apart chop sometomato and onion, add olive oil,
ESCARAPUCHE
Peloche
good home-made wine and salt.Now add the fish. Serve cold.
This recipe is also prepared withrabbit or pork
In the south of Badajoz thisrecipe is called “salmorejo”
RECIPE
WHERE TO FIND THEEXREMADURAN GASTRONOMIC
PRODUCTS
OILMonterrubio de la Serena • Cabeza del Buey • Talarrubias
Santa Amalia • Guareña • Gata • Hoyos • Plasencia • Montánchez
Los Santos de Maimona
CURED HAM ANDCOLD MEATJerez de los Caballeros • Fregenal de la Sierra • Segura de León
Higuera la Real • Fuentes de León • Oliva de la Frontera
Monesterio • Zafra • Barcarrota • Olivenza • Salvaleón
Montánchez • El Piornal • Baños de Montemayor
HONEYCañamero • Navezuela • Hoyos • Pinofranqueado
Fuenlabrada de los Montes • Herrera del Duque
SHEEP CHEESECáceres • Valdefuentes • Cabeza del Buey • Campanario • Castuera
Quintana de la Serena • Benquerencia de la Serena • Casar de Cáceres
GOAT CHEESEAcehúche • Hoyos • Castilblanco • Cuacos de Yuste
Losar de la Vera • Deleitosa • Navalvillar de Ibor • Trujillo
PAPRIKAAldeanueva del Camino • Cuacos de Yuste • Jaraíz de la Vera
Jarandilla de la Vera • Villanueva de la Vera • Plasencia
WINESAlmendralejo • Hornachos • Puebla de Sancho Pérez
Los Santos de Maimona • Cañamero • Don Benito
CHERRY AND SPIRITSCabezuela del Valle • Navaconcejo • Tornavacas • Valdastillas
Guijo de Santa Bárbara
FIGSAlmoharín • Valdefuentes
SWEETS AND PASTRIESCastuera • Olivenza
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OTHER INFORMATION OF INTEREST
88
TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES
OF EXTREMADURA
DEPENDENCIES OF THEAUTONOMOUS
GOVERNMENT OFEXTREMADURA
CÁCERES
Plaza Mayor, 3
10003 Cáceres
Tfnos. 927 01 08 34
927 01 08 35
Fax 927 01 08 36
PLASENCIA
Pza. de Torre de Lucía s/n.
10600 Plasencia
Tfno. 927 01 78 40
Fax 927 01 78 41
VILLARREAL DE SAN CARLOSCentro de Información
del Parque Natural de Monfragüe.
10695 Villarreal de San Carlos.
Tfno. 927 19 91 34
Fax 927 19 82 12
MUNICIPALITIES ORCONVENTION OFMUNICIPALITIES
ALANGEC/ Trinidad, 1906840 Alange
Tfno. 924 36 52 19Fax 924 36 50 39www.alange.es
ALBURQUERQUEPlaza de España, s/n06510 Alburquerque
Tfno. y fax 924 40 12 [email protected]
TOURIST ADMINISTRATION OF EXTREMADURA
CONSEJERÍA DE CULTURA
Y TURISMO
C/ Almendralejo, 14
06800 Mérida
Tfno. 924 00 70 09
DIRECCIÓN GENERAL
DE TURISMO
C/ Santa Eulalia, 30
06800 Mérida
Tfno. 924 00 83 43
Fax 924 00 83 54
www.turismoextremadura.com
INSPECCIÓN PROVINCIAL DE
TURISMO DE BADAJOZ
Avda. de Europa, 10
06004 Badajoz
Tfno. 924 01 06 83
Fax 924 01 07 10
INSPECCIÓN PROVINCIAL DE
TURISMO DE CÁCERES
C/ Gómez Becerra, 21
10001 Cáceres
Tfno. 927 00 56 30
Fax 927 00 56 52
TUREXTREMADURA
Avda. de Extremadura, 5 bajo
06800 Mérida
Tfno. y Fax: 924 30 46 07 / 08
www.turiex.com
89
ALCÁNTARA Avenida de Mérida, 21
10980 Alcántara
Tfno. y fax 927 39 08 63
www.e-alcantara.net
ALISEDAC/ Tesoro, s/n
10550 Aliseda
Tfno. 927 27 70 02
ALMENDRALEJOAtrio de la Piedad, 2
06200 Almendralejo
Tfno. 924 66 69 67
Fax 924 66 69 67
www.almendralejo.es
ARROYO DE LA LUZC/ Santa Ana, 1
10900 Arroyo de la Luz
Tfno. 927 27 04 37
Fax 927 27 15 77
AZUAGA Plaza de la Merced, 12
06920 Azuaga
Tfno y Fax 924 13 78 38
www.azuaga.es
BADAJOZPasaje de San Juan s/n
06005 Badajoz
Tfno. 924 22 49 81
Fax 924 21 02 32
www.aytobadajoz.es
BAÑOS DE MONTEMAYORMayor, 78 (Ayuntamiento)
10750 Baños de Montemayor
Tfno. 927 48 80 12 (Ayto.)
Fax 927 48 80 75 (Ayto.)
www.valledelambroz.com
BELVÍS DE MONROYC/ Real, s/n
10394 Belvís de Monroy
Tfno. 927 57 59 68
Fax 927 57 57 84 (Ayuntamiento)
CÁCERES (Oficina Municipal)C/ Ancha, 7
10003 Cáceres
Tfno.: 927 24 71 72
CAMINOMORISCOAvda. de las Hurdes, s/n
10620 Caminomorisco
Tfno. y fax 927 43 53 29
www.todohurdes.com
CORIAAvda. de Extremadura, 39
10800 Coria
Tfno. 927 50 13 51
Fax 927 50 07 35 (Ayto.)
www.coria.org
DON BENITOVillanueva, 1
06400 Don Benito
Tfno. 924 80 80 84
Tfno y Fax 924 80 53 50
www.donbenito.es
FREGENAL DE LA SIERRAEl Rollo, 1
06340 Fregenal de la Sierra
Tfno. 924 70 13 76
Fax 924 70 03 83
www.fregenaldelasierra.es
FUENTES DE LEÓNC/ Galinda, s/n
06280 Fuentes de León
Tfno. 924 72 41 74
Fax 924 72 41 61
90
JARANDILLA DE LA VERA
Plaza de la Constitución, 1
10450 Jarandilla de la Vera
Tfno. y fax 927 56 04 60
www.jarandilla.net
JEREZ DE LOS CABALLEROS
Avda. de la Constitución 4
06380 Jerez de los Caballeros
Tfno. 924 73 03 72
Fax 924 73 02 04
www.jerezdeloscaballeros.es
JERTE
Avda. Ramón y Cajal s/n
10612 Jerte
Tfno.: 927 47 04 53
Fax: 927 47 03 39
LLERENA
Aurora 2
06900 Llerena
Tfno. y fax 924 87 05 51
www.llerena.org
LOS SANTOS DE MAIMONA
Plaza de España, 9 (Casa de la Cultura)
06230 Los Santos de Maimona
Tfno. y fax 924 54 48 01
MALPARTIDA DE CÁCERES
Muñoz Torrero, s/n.
10910 Malpartida de Cáceres
Tfno. y fax 927 27 67 23 (Ayto.)
www.aytomalpartidacc.com
GUADALUPE
Pza Sta. María de Guadalupe s/n
10140 Guadalupe
Tfno. y fax 927 15 41 28
www.puebladeguadalupe.net
ayto-guadalupe@ hotmail.com
HERVÁS
Braulio Navas, 6
10700 Hervás
Tfno. y fax 927 47 36 18
www.hervas.com
HERRERA DEL DUQUE
Avda. de la Palmera, 1
06670 Herrera del Duque
Tfno.: 924 65 02 31
Fax: 924 65 00 25
HIGUERA LA REAL
C/ Fuente, 12
06350 Higuera la Real
Tfno.: 924 72 33 28
Fax: 924 72 71 30
HORNACHOS
Felipe Trigo, 1 (Casa de la Cultura)
06228 Hornachos
Tfno. 924 53 35 33
Fax 924 53 36 07
www.hornachos.es
JARAÍZ DE LA VERA
Avda. Constitución, 167
10400 Jaraíz de la Vera
Tfno. 927 17 05 87
Fax 927 46 06 46
www.ayto-jaraiz.com
91
MDAD. DE ALCONAVARC/ Hernán Cortés, 6
10161 Arroyomolinos
Tfno. 927 38 53 06
MDAD. TRASIERRA-TIERRAS DE GRANADILLAPlaza de Poblado Gabriel y Galán
10712 Pantano de Gabriel y Galán
Tfno.: 927 43 94 76
Fax: 927 43 96 66
MDAD. DE LA SERENAPalacio de los Condes de Ayala
Plaza de España, s/n
06420 Castuera
Tfno. 924 77 38 17
Fax 924 76 06 35
www.laserena.org
MDAD. DE LA SIERRA DE GATAPlaza del Vadillo, 1
10867 Robledillo de Gata
Tfno. 927 67 10 11
Fax 927 67 10 80 (Ayto.)
www.robledillodegata.com
www.sierradegata.org/es
OF. COMARCAL TURISMO INTEGRAL
MDAD. SIERRA DE GATA
Plaza Mayor, 1 Bajo
10892 San Martín de Trevejo
Tfno. 927 51 45 85
www.sierradegata.es
MDAD. DEL VALLE DEL JERTEParaje de Peñas Albas, s/n
10610 Cabezuela del Valle
Tfno. y fax 927 47 25 58
www.turismovalledeljerte.com
MEDELLÍNPlaza Hernán Cortés, 3
06411 Medellín
Tfno. y Fax: 924 82 24 38
www.medellin.es
MÉRIDAC/ Santa Eulalia, 64
06800 Mérida
Tfno.: 924 33 07 22
www.merida.es
MONESTERIOPaseo de Extremadura, 205 Izq.
06260 Monesterio
Tfno. 924 51 67 37
Fax 924 51 60 61
www.monesterio.es
MONTÁNCHEZPlaza de España, 1
10170 Montánchez
Tfno. y fax 927 38 07 63
www.villademontanchez.com
MONTEHERMOSOPlaza de la Constitución s/n
10810 Montehermoso
Tfno. 927 43 06 72
Fax 927 67 50 03
MONTIJOAv. de la Estación, s/n
06480 Montijo
Tfno. 924 45 90 45
Fax 924 45 35 03 (Ayto)
MORALEJAAvda. Pureza Canelo, s/n
10840 Moraleja
Tfno. y Fax 927 14 70 88
www.sierradegata.org
VALENCIA DE ALCÁNTARA
Hernán Cortes, s/n
10500 Valencia de Alcántara
Tfno. y fax 927 58 21 84
www.valenciadealcantara.net
VILLAFRANCA DE LOS BARROS
Ctra. N-630, Km. 664,50
06220 Villafranca de los Barros
Tfno y Fax 924 52 08 35
www.villafrancadelosbarros.es
VILLANUEVA DE LA SERENA
Plaza de España, 1 (Ayto.)
06700 Villanueva de la Serena
Tfno. 924 84 60 10
Fax 924 84 35 29
www.villanuevadelaserena.es
VILLANUEVA DE LA VERA
Avda. de la Vera, s/n
10470 Villanueva de la Vera
Tfno. 927 56 70 31
ZAFRA
Plaza de España, 8 B
06300 Zafra
Tfno. y fax 924 55 10 36
www.zafraturismo.com
NAVALMORAL DE LA MATA
Antonio Concha, 91
10300 Navalmoral de la Mata
Tfno. 927 53 23 28
Fax 927 53 53 60
OLIVENZA
Plaza de España, s/n
06100 Olivenza
Tfno. y Fax 924 49 01 51
www.olivenzavirtual.com
PLASENCIA (Oficina Municipal)
Plaza de Sta. Clara, s/n
Tfno.: 927 42 38 43
Fax: 927 42 55 94
www.plasencia.com
TALARRUBIAS
Centro de Ocio Puerto Peña
Ctra. Peloche, km. 1
06640 Pantano de Puerto Peña
Tfno.: 924 63 01 00
www.talarrubias.net
TORREJÓN EL RUBIO
Madroño, 1
10694 Torrejón El Rubio
Tfno. 927 45 52 92
Fax 927 45 52 34
TRUJILLO
Plaza Mayor, s/n
10200 Trujillo
Tfnos. 927 32 26 77
927 65 90 39
Fax 927 65 91 40
www.ayto-trujillo.com
92
93
OTHER PUBLICATIONS OF THEDIRECCIÓN GENERAL DE TURISMO
(DIRECTORATE GENERAL OF TOURISM)
GENERAL GUIDES
Guía Turística de Extremadura
Guía Profesional de Extremadura
Guía de Alojamiento Rural
Guía de Campings y Bungalows
Guía Vía de la Plata
Guía de Turismo Enológico
Guía de Límite Visual
Guía del Caminante
Mapa Turístico de Extremadura
Mapa de Turismo Ornitológico
Mapa de la Vía Verde
Mapa de Naturaleza Activa
Mapa de la Vía de la Plata
Mapa del Caminante
Tríptico de Cuevas Turísticas
Tríptico de la Vía Verde
TERRITORY GUIDES
I- Sierra de Gata / Hurdes / Cáparra
II- Valle del Ambroz / Valle del Jerte / La Vera
III- Plasencia / Monfragüe / Campo Arañuelo
IV- Villuercas / Jara / Ibores
V- Cáceres / Trujillo-Miajadas / Montánchez-Tamuja
VI- Sierra de San Pedro-Los Baldíos / Tajo-Salor-Almonte / Valle del Alagón
VII- La Siberia / La Serena / Vegas Altas del Guadiana
VIII- Campiña Sur / Tentudía / Jerez-Sierra Suroeste
IX- Comarca de Olivenza / Badajoz / Comarca de Lácara / Mérida
X- Sierra Grande-Tierra de Barros / Zafra-Río Bodión
.
LOCAL GUIDES
Badajoz - Cáceres - Mérida - Plasencia - Zafra - Trujillo - Guadalupe - Coria -
Valencia de Alcántara - Jerez de los Caballeros - Olivenza - Llerena
THEME GUIDES
1- Guía de Rutas Histórico-Artísticas
2- Guía de Ecoturismo
3- Guía de Senderos Turísticos
4- Guía de Museos y Colecciones
5- Guía de Balnearios
6- Guía de Rutas Gastronómicas
7- Guía de Fiestas de Interés Turístico
8- Guía de Fines de Semana por Extremadura
9- Guía de Naturaleza Activa
10- Guía de Yacimientos Arqueológicos
.
© JUNTA DE EXTREMADURAConsejería de Cultura y Turismo
Overall Coordination:Dirección General de Turismo
Texts: Julio Yuste González
Photographs: Juan Luis Castaño Jabato
Design:Pepe Melara
Prepress: XXI Estudio Gráfico
Printing: Gráficas Romero
Legal Deposit: BA- 358 / 98
.