Garment Detailing

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A presentation on Garment Detailing.. Smocking, shirring And Gathers.. Elements of Fashion

Transcript of Garment Detailing

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A presentation on Garment

Detailing.. Smocking, shirring

And Gathers..

Elements of Fashion

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INTRODUCTION

-What is Smocking?

-Smocking is an embroidery technique used to gather fabric so that it can stretch. It consists of needle work on a garment that is made by gathering the cloth tightly in stitches.

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1175 B.C.

HISTORY-Smocking is an art form whose origin has been obscured in history but has been handed down from generation to generation much like the sagas, songs and myths, however it's roots are traceable to a point through looking at the art of the past and in stitchery. If you look at paintings from the Italian and German Renaissance you will see lots of examples of smocking on men’s and ladies wear.

-When smocking really started we don't know but according to tradition, smocking has been around forever.

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-From the late 17th century to the Industrial Revolution of the late 19th century the Smock Frocks were a very popular piece of clothing for the rural peoples of the British Isles to wear.

- North American Smocking - either invented or a form of an old style promoted by Butterick & Co. late 19th Century- became very popular from the 30's through the 60’s.

-Smocking on Gingham, is called Counterchange Smocking - Counterchange in America has an interesting place in pre and post civil war southern life and has advanced greatly in the past 10 years into a unique form of picture smocking without cables.

- Lattice smocking found in smocked pillows during 60’s & 70’s.

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TYPES or VARIATIONs of smocking

Counter change smocking: corners of the gingham squares, or the stripe edges, or the repeating pattern are picked up with needle and thread in a specific pattern. This can be either a geometric repeating design or something Counterchange consists of fabric that is either gingham, striped, a tiny repeat, or lovingly hand marked by the stitcher. Its lovingly because it requires that a horde of teeny dots be marked if you are making through that route.

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2.) Lattice smocking:Lattice smocking is mostly found in pillows andcurtains. These are large repetitive folds of fabric in lovely patterns that are made by making those dots again.It is also known as American or North American and Canadian smocking

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ENGLISH SMOCKINGEnglish smocking is worked on pleated fabric. The fabric can be pleated by hand with the aid of something called Knotts Dots or it can be pleated in a pleater, as I have often shown on this blog. Once the fabric is pleated stitches are applied, gathering up tiny parts of the pleats in a pattern that makes a geometric design.

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ITALIAN SMOCKINGIt is as also known as Italian shirring.

It is done on a pleated fabric.

A pattern is followed by making running stitches on a Plane fabric.

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PICTURE SMOCKING

This type of smocking is mostly found in kids wear.Picture smocking has also become extremely gorgeous and clever. Embellishments are another love of smockers - especially bullions in the form of roses, leaves and other flowers.

PICTURE SMOCKING

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WOMENS WEAR

KIDS WEAR

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PILLOW AND CUSHION COVERS

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TABLE MATS

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HANDBAGS AND PURSE

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CURTAINS

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SHIRRING

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Shirring is a sewing technique which uses multiple rows of stitches with elastic thread to create rows of gathers. It is an older embroidery technique which is related to smocking. Both are designed to allow fabric to stretch and snug up to fit.

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INTRODUCTION

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- It is a sewing technique.

- It is related to smocking.

- Rows of thread with elastic thread are used to create gathers.

- It is used decoratively or functionally in sewing projects.

- It may be used to add structure or add form to a garment.

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TYPES OF SHIRING

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-Knitted centre shirring: This kind of shirring is the oldest type of shirred rugs and are quite straightforward to construct. This technique is done by taking strips of fabric and working them onto a thread, then going in an out to supply folds along the thread. The shirred sections are then coiled and stitched to create the rug.

-Edge Shirring : This technique is done along one edge of a strip of fabric instead of in the center. The rugs are typically scrub and have to have a spacing strip to permit the rug to lie flat.

-Mono-shirring : This system is used to create a thick mat or blanket by trying a single giant piece of wool fabric which is gathered along many threads.

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END USE

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SKIRT SHIRRING

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ELASTIC DECORATIVE

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GATHERS

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IntroductionGATHERS:It is a form of fullness which is formed by Tacking, which is later pulled and fastened in the edge.

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types of Gathers1.) Hand Gathering

2.) Machine Gathering

3.) Automatic Gathering

4.) Elastic Gathering

5.) Channel Gathering

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1.) Hand gathering is done on one or more rows of running stitches, the more rows of stitches the deeper the gathers produced. When the rows of stitching are parallel and identically spaced the gathers look like fine pleats.

2.) Machine gathering is faster than hand gathering and can be done using a straight stitch with the top tension loosened and the fabric gathered onto the bobbin thread. The density of the mini-folds, in combination with the stitch length determines the fullness.done by encasing the gathering cord under one or more rows of zigzag stitch.

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3.) Automatic gathering is performed while sewing rather that arranging the fabric afterwards. It requires the use of either a gathering foot or a more complicated ruffler. Both lock an extra piece of fabric into the stitches as sewing is done.

4.) Elastic gathering can be done by straight stitching with elastic on the bobbin this gives a soft gather, a fuller gather can be achieved by zigzagging over cord elastic which is stretched during stitching.

5.) Channel gathering is performed by either stitching a casing through which a length of cord, ribbon, rod etc. is placed, or by creating loops, holes or slots through which the gathering element is woven.

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END USE

WOMEN’S

WEAR

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KIDS WEAR( FROCKS )

HOME FURNISHINGS( PILLOWS, CURTAINS )

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OUR LEARNING

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We studied three elements of garment detailing (Smocking, shirring and gathers)

We can identify the difference between the three of them.

We are able to identify there present usage as the will be always existing in fashion

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THANK YOUA presentation by

ADHISH SINGH THAKUR

Under guidance of-Ms. Lekha Rajeev

With help from-Ashitha, Krithika & Surendran