Functional Cosmetology - GBV6. In vivo Evaluation Methods for Anti-acne Agents 119 7. Evaluation of...

Functional CosmetologySubstantiation of Cosmetics Efficacy:Recent Progress and Future Promise

Supervised by

Katsuyuki Takeda, M.D.

, Shotaro Harada, M.D.

Masanori Ando, Ph. D.

Edited by

Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan

YAKUJINIPPO, LTD.

• CONTENTS •

PrefacePreface to the English Edition of Functional Cosmetology-Substantiation of Cosmetics Efficacy :

Recent Progress and Future Promice (1)Supervisor's View of the Significance of this Book and its Importance for Society (3)The Great Responsibility of Cosmetic Science in the 21st Century—Steady advances being made

in the verification of usefulness (6)

PARTI

Chapter I Social Usefulness of Cosmetics

1-1 Psychological Effect of Makeup

1. Physical Appearance and Self 12. Manipulation of Physical Appearance 33. Functions and Meanings of Makeup Bahaviour4. Psychological Effects of Makeup 6

1-2 Effects of Makeup in Medicine

1. Introduction 82. Observed Effects of Makeup in Medicine 93. Effect of Makeup on a Patient with Manic Depression 114. Effect of Makeup on a Patient with Schizophrenia 115. Use of Makeup Therapy for Dementia 126. Effect of Makeup on a Patient with Alzheimer's Disease 127. Effect of Makeup on a Patient with Vascular Dementia 138. Summing up 14

1-3 Importance of Makeup in the Care of the Elderly 15(Conversation with a woman with rich sensibilities and conclusions to bedrawn from it)

1-4 Psychological Effect of Fragrances used in Cosmetics 20

1. Role of Fragrances in History 202. Role of Smells 223. Sensitivity to Fragrances 244. Fragrances and the Skin, Masking Body Odour 255. Characteristics of the Olfactory Sense 256. Summing up 27

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1-5 What Cosmetics Can Contribute to Health 28— Including Quality of Life (QOL), Individual Satisfaction, SubjectiveFeelings and Preference in their Evaluation —

1. Introduction 282. WHO View of Health 293. Evaluation of Quality of Life (QOL) 314. Summing up —Challenges in Diversifying the Evaluation of Cosmetics and Regulatory

Systems that will Facilitate this 34

Chapter II Usefulness of Cosmetics in Dermatology

II-l Overall Effects of Cosmetics from the DermatologicalViewpoint 37— Effect of Skin Care Cosmetics on the Water Holding Capacity of theStratum Corneum and Barrier Function —

1. Cosmetic Products from the Viewpoint of Dermatologists 372. Scientific Evaluation of Skin Condition 383. Methods of Rapidly Evaluating the Water Holding Capacity of the Stratum Corneum 404. Nature of Dry Skin (Xerosis) 405. Correlation between Barrier Function and Dry Skin (Xerosis) 416. Scientific Proof for the Usefulness of Moisturizing Skin Care Products 427. How to Select Skin Care Products for the Dry Skin 448. Outlook for the Future 459. Summing up 46

II-2 Aiming Towards a Common Understanding between Dermatologyand Cosmetic Science 49(with extract from report on an investigation of whitening agents)

1. Introduction 492. Physiological and Pathological Aging of the Skin

— Common Territory of Dermatology and Cosmetic Science— 493. Towards the Realization of Common Terminology

— "Crosstalk" between Dermatologists and Cosmetic Researchers— 514. Liver Spots, Freckles and Whitening Agents 53

—Women's awareness of Liver Spots and Freckles and Measures they take against them—5. Summary and Future Outlook for the Japanese Cosmetic Science Society 54

II-3 Significance of Anti-oxidant Effects in Cosmetic Science 55

1. Introduction 552. Active Oxygen and Biophylaxis 553. Development of Devices Specifically for Detection of Singlet Oxygen 564. Detection of Nitrogen Monoxide using a Novel Fluorescent Probe 575. Protective Role of Cosmetics with Antioxidant Effects 596. Summing up 60

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Contents

PART 2

Chapter 1 Usefulness of Skin Care Cosmetics

Section 1 Introduction 61

1. Cleansing the Skin 612. Maintaining the Skin's Moisture Balance 613. Stimulating Skin Metabolism 624. Protecting the Skin from Harmful Influences in the External Environment 62

Section 2 Cleansing Cosmetics 64

1. Introduction 642. Types of Skin Grime 643. Concept of Cleansing Materials 654. Types of Surfactants 655. Mechanism of Cleansing 676. Usefulness of Cleansing Materials 687. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 78

Section 3 Cosmetics for Moisturizing and Prevention of RoughSkin r 81

1. Introduction 812. Factors in the Development of Rough Skin and Measures against Them 813. Methods for Evaluating Stratum Corneum Functions, Usefulness of Moisturizing and

Rough Skin Cosmetics 924. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 100

Section 4 Cosmetics for Acne 103

1. Introduction 1032. Skin Types Susceptible to Acne and Periods when it Occurs 1033. Factors in the Development of Acne 1054. Dealing with Acne 1105. In vitro Evaluation Methods for Anti-acne Agents 1166. In vivo Evaluation Methods for Anti-acne Agents 1197. Evaluation of Anti-acne Agents in Humans 1208. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 121

Section 5 UV Care Cosmetics 126

1. Introduction 1262. UV Induced Skin Damages 1263. Mechanism of UV Induced Skin Damage 1354. Various Approaches to Efficacy of UV Care Cosmetics 1385. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 140

Section 6 Whitening Cosmetics 145

1. Introduction 1452. Mechanism of Pigmentation 1463. Melanin Synthesis Inhibitors 150

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4. Methods of Evaluating Melanin Synthesis Inhibitors 1515. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 159

Section 7 Anti-wrinkle Cosmetics 163

1. Introduction 1632. Mechanism of Wrinkle Formation and Measures against Them 1633. In vivo Evaluation Techniques 1714. Evaluation Techniques in Humans 1725. Evaluation of Aging-related Changes in Wrinkles in Japanese Women 1756. Evaluating Usefulness of Anti-wrinkle Cosmetics 1777. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 179

Section 8 Cosmetics for Sagging Skin 181

1. Introduction 1812. Explanation of Sagging Skin 1813. Factors causing Sagging Skin 1814. Evaluation of Sagging Skin 1825. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 187

Section 9 Cosmetics for Dark Patches 188

1. Introduction 1881. Mechanism of Dark Patches and How to Treat Them 1883. Evaluation Techniques for Dark Patches 1904. Usefulness of Cosmetics for Dark Patches 1935. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 194

Section 10 Cosmetics for Dark Circles Around the Eyes 196

1. Introduction 1962. Mechanism by which Dark Circles Develop and Measures Against Them 1963. Evaluation Techniques in Humans 1994. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 200

Section 11 Cosmetics for Massage 203

1. Introduction 2032. Effects of Massage 2033. Physical Effects of Massage on the Body 2044. Psychological Effects of Massage 2085. Influence of Massage Cream Formulation and Ease of Use on Effects of Massage 2126. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 213

Section 12 New Function Cosmetics

(1) Stratum Corneum Peeling Cosmetics 215

1. Concept of Stratum Corneum Care 2152. Regulating Stratum Corneum Exfoliation through Control of Protease Activity 2163. Regulating Stratum Corneum Desquamation with Keratolytic Agents 2194. Evaluation of Usefulness 2265. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 228

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Contents

(2) Antioxidant Cosmetics 232

1. Active Oxygen Species 2322. Active Oxygen Species Scavenging Systems in the Body 2333. Formation of Active Oxygen Species in the Skin 2364. Oxidative Stress and the Skin 2395. Overview of Antioxidants 2416. Methods for Evaluating Antioxidant Efficacy 2527. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 255

Section 13 Feeling on Use and Psychological Effects of Skin CareCosmetics 259

1. Introduction 2592. Feeling on Use and its Evaluation by Sensory Tests 2593. Psychological Methods for Evaluation of Feelings 2634. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 267

Section 14 Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 268

1. How the Evaluation of the Usefulness of Cosmetics has Evolved 2682. Current Issues 2683. Future for Skin Care Cosmetics 270I Techniques for Evaluating the Efficacies of Skin Care Cosmetics (Matrix Table) 272

Chapter 2 Usefulness of Makeup Cosmetics


Section 2 Base Makeup Cosmetics 278

1. Beauty-related Usefulness 2782. Protective Usefulness 289

Section 3 Point Makeup Cosmetics 295

1. Lipstick 2952. Eye Makeup Cosmetics 2983. Manicure 3014. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 303

Section 4 Techniques for Enhancing Usefulness 305

1. Pigment Technology for Makeup Cosmetics 3052. Specific Techniques for Makeup Cosmetics 307

Section 5 Psychological Effects of Makeup 320

1. Evaluation of Makeup's Effect on the Mind 3202. Evaluation of Beautifying Effect of Makeup on the Face 324


1. Overall Quality of Makeup Cosmetics 3352. Intentions of the Manufacturers and Assessment by the User 335

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3. Historical Background of Makeup and Technological Advances that Have Been Made 3364. Our Mission for the Future 337• Techniques for Evaluating the Efficacies of Makeup Cosmetics (Matrix Table) 338

Chapter 3 Usefulness of Hair Care Cosmetics


Section 2 Hair Growth Stimulating Cosmetics 342

1. Hair Loss, Graying of the Hair and Their Causes 3422. In vitro Evaluation Techniques 3453. In vivo Evaluation Techniques 3484. Evaluation Techniques in Humans 3525. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 355

Section 3 Anti-dandruff Cosmetics 359

1. Occurrence of Dandruff and its Causes 3592. In vitro Evaluation Techniques 3603. In vivo Evaluation Techniques 3624. Evaluation Techniques in Humans 3625. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 366

Section 4 Anti-itching Cosmetics 368

1. Occurrence of Itching and its Causes 3682. Itching in the Scalp and its Causes 3683. In vitro and in vivo Evaluation Techniques Targeting Histamine 3684. Animal Models 3695. Evaluation Techniques in Humans 3696. Evaluation of Usefulness 3707. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 371

Section 5 Hair Cleansing Cosmetics 372

1. History of Hair Cleansing Cosmetics and Their Usefulness 3722. Scalp and Hair Dirt 3733. Cleansing the Hair and Evaluation Techniques for It 3744. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 382

Section 6 Hair Conditioning and Styling Products 385

1. Hair Conditioning Products 3852. Hair Styling Products 3853. Evaluation of Products Usefulness 3864. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 393

Section 7 Permanent Waving Lotions 396

1. Introduction 3962. Safety of Permanent Waving Agents and Their Mechanism of Action 3983. Sensory Testing of Permanent Waving Agents 3984. Testing of Permanent Waving Agent Effects 399

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Contents

5. Procedures for Assessing Potential Damage due to Permanent Waving Agents 4016. Usefulness of Permanent Waving Agents 4037. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 405

Section 8 Hair Colours and Hair Bleaches 407

1. Types of Hair Colours and Hair Bleaches and Parameters for the Evaluation of TheirEffects 407

2. Evaluation of Effects and Usefulness of Hair Colours and Hair Bleaches 4083. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 411

Section 9 Sensory Testing of Hair Care Cosmetics-Testing in Practiceand Consumer Preference 413

1. Introduction 4132. Sensory Testing of Hair Care Products 4133. Points for Attention in Analytical Sensory Testing 4164. Points for Attention in Evaluation by Preference Panels 4175. Latest Trends in Sensory Testing 4206. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 421


1. Introduction 4232. Hair Growth Stimulation 4233. Hair Colours and Hair Bleaches 4244. Shampoos and Conditioners 4245. Conclusion 425• Techniques for Evaluating the Efficacies of Hair Care Cosmetics (Matrix Table) 426

Chapter 4 Usefulness of Body Care Cosmetics


Section 2 Cleansing Cosmetics 429

1. Necessity of Cleansing and Development of Cleansing Cosmetics 4292. Required Usefulness Characteristics of Body Cleansing Agents and Methods of Evaluating

Them 4313. Ensuring Safety 4474. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 449

Section 3 Sunburn Prevention Cosmetics 455

1. Sunburn Prevention Cosmetics (Sunscreens) 4552. Methods of Measuring SPF and Sunscreen Evaluation 4573. Methods of Measuring UVA Protection Effectiveness and Use in Evaluation of Sunscreens 4664. Correct Understanding of SPF and PA as Indicators of Degree of Protection against

Sunburn 471

Section 4 Hand Care Cosmetics 474

1. Structure of Skin and Roughness of the Hands 4742. Causes of Rough Skin 474

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3. Methods for Evaluating Skin Condition 4754. Prevention and Alleviation of Skin Roughness 4785. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 481

Section 5 Slimming Cosmetics 483

1. Slimming Effect 4832. Methods for Measuring Body Shape 4833. Subcutaneous Fat 4844. Swelling due to Fluid Retention 4885. Sagging 4906. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 490

Section 6 Circulation Enhancing Cosmetics 493— Measurement of Skin Blood Circulation and Evaluation ofBlood Circulation Enhancers and Bath Preparations—

1. Skin Vascularization and Blood Circulation 4932. Measuring Skin Blood Flow 4943. Blood Flow Promoters 4974. Evaluation of Bath Preparations 4985. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 499

Section 7 Anti-itching Cosmetics 501

1. Itching and Skin Care 5012. Itching Mechanism 5013. Dryness and Itching 5024. Cosmetics Ingredients with Potential for Suppressing Itching 5025. Cosmetics and Itching Control 5036. Literature Search 5037. Evaluation of Itching 5038. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 512

Section 8 Deodorant Cosmetics 513

1. Perception of Body Odour 5132. Mechanism and Usefulness of Deodorant Cosmetics 5133. Methods for Evaluating Antiperspirant Effect 5154. Methods for Evaluating Bactericidal Effect 5175. Methods for Evaluating Deodorant Effect 5186. Alleviating Body Smell Particular to the Middle Aged and Elderly 5197. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 519

Section 9 Cosmetics for Removing Body Hair 520

1. Depilatory Products 5202. Bleaches 5223. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 523

Section 10 Insect Repellents 524

1. Introduction 5242. Evaluating Mosquito Repellent Effect 5243. Evaluating Repellence for Chigger Mites 526

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Contents

4. Important Points in Evaluating Repellents 5275. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 527


1. Cleansing of Body Dirt 5292. Prevention and Alleviation of Sunburn 5293. Prevention and Treatment of Rough Skin on the Hands 5304. Prevention and Treatment of Obesity, Swelling and Sagging 5305. Remedying Poor Blood Circulation 5306. Prevention and Alleviation of Itching 5307. Prevention of Body Odour 5308. Body Hair Removal and Bleaching 5319. Prevention of Insect Bites using Repellents 531• Techniques for Evaluating the Efficacies of Body Care Cosmetics (Matrix Table) 532

Chapter 5 Usefulness of Fragrance Cosmetics


1. Importance of Olfaction 5352. Role of Aromatic Materials 5353. Fragrance Cosmetics 5354. Types of Fragrance Cosmetics 5365. Role of Fragrance in Cosmetics 5366. Techniques for Evaluating Usefulness of Fragrance 536

Section 2 Physiological Evaluation of Preference 537

1. Evaluation of Preference using Autonomic Nervous System Indicators 5382. Evaluation of Preference using Central Nervous System Indicators 5393. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 542

Section 3 Evaluation of Arousal and Sedative Effects 544

1. Effect of Odours on the Emotions 5442. Physiological Evaluation of Arousal and Sedative Effects 5453. Evaluation of Arousal and Sedative Effects using Contingent Negative Variation (CNV) 5464. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 548

Section 4 Evaluation of Fatigue Relieving Effects 549

1. Fatigue Relieving Effects Expected of Fragrances 5492. Evaluation of Subjective Fatigue Level 5493. Objective Evaluation of Fatigue Level 5494. Evaluation of Physiological Fatigue Level 5515. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 551

Section 5 Evaluation of Stress Relieving Effects 553

1. Use of Fragrances for Relieving Stress 5532. Evaluation using Autonomic Nervous System Indicators 5533. Evaluation using Endocrine System Indicators 5544. Evaluation using Immune System Indicators 555

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5. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 556

Section 6 Evaluation of the Immunological Effects of Fragrances — 557

1. Immunological Effects of Fragrances 5572. Application of Fragrances in Medicine 5593. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 560

Section 7 Evaluation of the Effect of Fragrances on Sleep 562

1. Research using Animal Models 5622. Effect of Fragrances on Drowsiness 5623. Effect of Fragrances on Sleep 5634. Use of Fragrances for Insomnia 5645. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 564

Section 8 Evaluation of the Stimulating Effect of Odours on theOpposite Sex 566

1. Chemical Communication between Humans 5662. Influence of Odours on Sexual Information and Emotions 5673. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 569

Section 9 Evaluation of Antibacterial Effects of Fragrance Materials570

1. Evaluation of Antibacterial Activity 5702. Comparison of MICs Obtained by Different Test Methods 5713. Antibacterial Activity of Essential Oils and Fragrance Materials 5714. Antibacterial Activity of Fragrance Materials When used in Cosmetics 5725. Outlook for the Future and Issues to be Addressed 572


1. Effects of Fragrances on the Brain 5742. Current Status of Evaluation Methods and Future Outlook 575• Techniques for Evaluating the Efficacies of Fragrance Cosmetics (Matrix Table) 577

Chapter 6 Usefulness of Oral Care Products


Section 2 Evaluation of Effectiveness in Preventing Dental Cariesand Examples of Usefulness in this Respect 580

1. In vivo Studies (with Usefulness Example) 5802. In situ Method (with Usefulness Example) 5813. In vitro Method (with Usefulness Example) 582

Section 3 Methods of Evaluating Effectiveness in PreventingPeriodontal Disease and Examples of Usefulness inthis Respect 584

1. In vivo Test (with Usefulness Example) 5842. In vitro Method 586

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Contents

3. Active Ingredients for Preventing Periodontal Disease and Their Pharmacological Actions 586

Section 4 Evaluation of Effectiveness in Relieving Hyperesthesiaand Examples of Usefulness in this Respect 587

In vivo Test (with Usefulness Example) 587

Section 5 Evaluation of Effectiveness in Preventing Deposition ofDental Calculus and Examples of Usefulness in this Respect

588

Example of in vivo Usefulness Study 588

Section 6 Evaluation of Whitening Effect on Teeth Surface andExamples of Usefulness in this Respect 590

In vivo Test (with Usefulness Example) 590

Section 7 Evaluation of Effectiveness in Removing Plaque andExamples of Usefulness in this Respect 591

Example of in vivo Usefulness Study 591

Section 8 Evaluation of Effectiveness in Alleviation and Preventionof Halitosis and Examples of Usefulness in this Respect — 593

1. Evaluation by Gas Chromatography (with Usefulness Example) 5932. Evaluation by Methionine Gas Chromatography 593

Section 9 Usefulness of Oral Care Products as Regards Feelingon Use 595


1. Dental Caries-preventing Products 5982. Periodontal Disease-preventing Products 5983. Other Products 5984. Root Surface Decay-preventing Products 5985. Dry Mouth Products 599 ;6. Plaque-removing Mouthwash 599

Epilogue 601Contributors 603Index 607

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Functional Cosmetology - GBV6. In vivo Evaluation Methods for Anti-acne Agents 119 7. Evaluation of...

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