Frommer's Philadelphia Day by Day
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S. Colum
bus Blvd.
Lombard St.
S. 4
th S
t.
S. C
olum
bus
Bl
DockSt.
Gaskill St.
Monroe St.
Philip Pl
S. Washington Sq
Kenilworth St.
S. L
eith
gow
St.
Manning St.
S. 3
rd S
t.
Kater St.
Locust St.
Locust St.
Addison St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Rodman St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
S. R
eese
St.
Old
2nd
St.
S. 2
nd S
t.
S. M
arsh
all S
t.
S. F
ront
St.
S. M
ildre
d S
t.
S. 2
nd S
t.
Bainbridge St.
S. 8
th S
t.
South St.South St.
Dock St.
Cypress St.
Pine St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Ionic St.
S. 6
th S
t.
Chestnut St.
Spruce St.
Walnut St.
Delancey St.
Monroe St.
S. D
arie
n St
.
S. P
hilip
St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
Naudain St.S. Philip St.
De
law
are
Riv
er
WashingtonSquare
VeteransMemorial Park
Starr GardenRec Center
WASHINGTON SQUARE
WEST
SOCIETY HILL
SOUTHSTREET
FABRIC ROW
JEWELERS' ROWPENN’S
LANDING
IndependenceHall
pedestrianbridge
S. Colum
bus Blvd.
Lombard St.
S. 4
th S
t.
S. C
olum
bus
Blv
d.
DockSt.
Gaskill St.
Monroe St
Philip Pl.
S. Washington Sq
Kenilworth St.
S. L
eith
gow
St.
Manning St.
S. 3
rd S
t.
Kater St.
Locust St.
Locust St.
Addison St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Rodman St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
S. R
eese
St.
Old
2nd
St.
S. 2
nd S
t.
S. M
arsh
all S
t.
S. F
ront
St.
Mild
red
St.
S. 2
nd S
t.
Bainbridge St.
S. 8
th S
t.
South St.South St.
Dock St.
Cypress St.
Pine St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Ionic St.
S. 6
th S
t.
Chestnut St.
Spruce St.
Walnut St.
Delancey St.
Monroe St
S. D
arie
n St
.
S. P
hilip
St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
Naudain St.S. Philip St.
WashingtonSquare
VeteransMemorial Park
Starr GardenRec Center
LibertyBell Center
SOCIETY HILL
SOUTHSTREET
FABRICROW
JEWELERS' ROWPENN’S
LANDING
IndependenceHall
pedestrianbridge
9
87
6 4
210
1
3
35
95
dayBYday™
withfoldout
map
Philadelphiad
d.
rteb tbebebbLLL trtLiberttyyynterCBe enterCee t rBBell Center
23 Smart Ways to See the City
™
Contents 16 Favorite Moments 1
1 The Best Full-Day Tours 7The Best in One Day 8The Best in Two Days 12The Best in Three Days 16
2 The Best Special Interest Tours 21Philadelphia Early America 22Art Philly-Style 28Philly With Kids 36What Would Rocky Do? 42Romantic Philadelphia 46
3 The Best Neighborhood Tours 49Old City 50Society Hill 54City Hall/Midtown 58Rittenhouse 62Fairmount 66University City 70
4 The Best Shopping 73Shopping Best Bests 76Shopping A to Z 77
5 The Best of the Outdoors 85Fairmount Park by Bike 86Park It: Five Squares 90Penn’s Landing 94
COPYRIG
HTED M
ATERIAL
6 The Best Dining 97Dining Best Bets 98Dining A to Z 102
7 The Best Nightlife 113Nightlife Best Bets 114Nightlife A to Z 115
8 The Best of Arts & Entertainment 123Arts & Entertainment Best Bets 124Arts & Entertainment A to Z 125
9 The Best Hotels 133Hotel Best Bets 134Hotels A to Z 137
10 The Best Day Trips & Excursions 143The Best of Brandywine Valley 144The Best of Lancaster County 148The Best of Atlantic City 154
The Savvy Traveler 157Before You Go 158Getting There 160Getting Around 161Fast Facts 161A Brief History 168Philadelphia’s Architecture 169Toll-free Numbers & Websites 172
Index 175
15TH-16TH
12TH-13TH
LOMBARD-SOUTH
WALNUT-LOCUST
RACE-VINECHINATOWN
9TH-10TH
8TH 8TH 2ND
5TH11TH13TH
JUNIPERCITYHALL
15TH
15TH19TH22ND30TH
N. F
ront
St.
S. 5
th S
t.
S. B
road
St.
S. 1
7th
St.
S. 1
3th
St.
S. 1
3th
St.
N. 7
th S
t.
N. 7
th S
t.
S. 2
1st S
t.
Race St.Race St.
S. Colum
bus Blvd.
Lombard St.Lombard St.Lombard St.
S. 4
th S
t.S.
4th
St.
Bainbridge St.
Kater St.
Callowhill St.
N. C
olum
bus
Blv
d.
S. C
olum
bus
Blv
d.
Queen St.
Wood St.Wood St.
Naudain St.
Pearl St.
Cuthbert St.
Carlton St.
Benjamin Franklin Pkwy
S. Q
uinc
e St
.
Florist St.
Fitzwater St.
N. J
unip
er S
t.
Waverly St.
N. 2
4th
St.
Madison Sq
Schu
ykill
Ave
. W
Winter St.
DockSt.
Quarry St.
Gaskill St.
S. D
elhi
St.
Clinton St.
Waverly St.
Latimer St.
Moravian St.
Sansom St.
S. Penn Sq.
Park Towne Pl
S. V
an P
elt S
t.
Letit
ia S
t.
Fulton St.
S. B
ank
St.
Walden St.
Monroe St.
Philip Pl
S. Washington Sq
Kenilworth St.S. L
eith
gow
St.
N. 1
2th
St.
Manning St.
Chancellor St.
Ionic St.
S. 3
rd S
t.
Irving St.
N. 7
th S
t.
S. S
arta
in S
t.
Kater St.
Webster St.
Ludlow St.
Locust St.
Locust St.
Catharine St.
N. C
rosk
ey S
t.
S. 1
8th
St.
S. 1
8th
St.
Addison St.
S. P
ercy
St.
Arch St.Arch St.
S. Je
ssup
St.
Ranstead St.
S. 1
0th
St.
S. 7
th S
t.
S. W
atts
St.
Cypress St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Carlton St.
Webster St.
Wood St.
Rodman St.
N. W
ater
St.
Vine St.Vine St.
Vine St.
Rodman St. Rodman St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
Grays
Ferry
Ave
.
Pearl St.
N. 1
0th
St.
Commerce St.
S. 2
4th
St.
S. 2
6th
St.
N. 5
th S
t.
Arch St.
FreewayTunnel
FreewayTunnel
Walnut St.
S. F
airh
ill S
t.
Benjamin Franklin Pkwy
Race St.
S. R
eese
St.
Rodman St.
Carlton St.
Old
2nd
St.
S. 2
nd S
t.
Addison St.
Cuthbert St.
Fulton St.
Vine St.
Panama St.
S. M
arsh
all S
t.
N. B
road
St.
Ranstead St. S. F
ront
St.
Kater St.
Clymer St. Clymer St.
Manning St.
S. Swanson St.
Fulton St.
S. 1
9th
St.
N. Front St.
S. V
an P
elt S
t.
Locust St. Locust St.
Cherry St.Cherry St.
S. M
ildre
d S
t.
Pemberton St.
S. 2
nd S
t.
Irving St.
Cypress St.
S. Ju
nip
er S
t.
S. 2
nd S
t.
Cherry St.
Filbert St.Filbert St.
Bainbridge St.
Market St. Market St. Market St.
S. 2
3rd
St.
Vine St.N
. 23r
d S
t.
N. 1
9th
St.
Panama St.
S. 8
th S
t.
N. 2
0th
St.
N. 2
2nd
St.
S. 1
1th
St.
South St.
Webster St.
S. 1
5th
St.
S. H
icks
St.
S. C
lifto
n St
.
S. 2
0th
St.
Appletree St.
S. 1
9th
St.
South St. South St. South St.
S. 2
3rd
St.
Moravian St.
Ranstead St.
S. 1
1th
St.
N. 9
th S
t.
N. 8
th S
t.
E. P
assy
unk
Ave.
Waverly St.
Ionic St.
Dock St.
Cypress St.Cypress St.
Pemberton St.
Sansom St.
N. 1
7th
St.
S. P
ercy
St.
Pine St. Pine St. Pine St.
S. T
aney
St.
S. 2
5th
St.
Fulton St.
Delancey St.
Benjamin Franklin Pkwy
N. 1
0th
St.
N. 1
6th
St.
S. 1
6th
St.
S. 1
5th
St.
S. 1
6th
St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Ionic St.
S. 1
0th
St.
S. 2
2nd
St.
S. 2
2nd
St.
Catharine St.
Christian St. Christian St.
N. 5
th S
t.
Fitzwater St.
John F Kennedy Blvd.
S. 6
th S
t.
Church St.
Cuthbert St.
N. V
an P
elt S
t. Spring St.
S. W
atts
St.
S. W
atts
St.
Clymer St.
Chestnut St. Chestnut St. Chestnut St.
Manning St.
Bainbridge St.
Spring St.
Spruce St. Spruce St. Spruce St.
N. 3
rd S
t.
Walnut St.
Catharine St.
Delancey St.
N. W
ater
St.
S. 1
2th
St.
S. 1
2th
St.
Monroe St.Fitzwater St. Fitzwater St.
Naudain St.
Clover St.
N. W
atts
St.
N. M
ole
St.
Appletree St.
Ludlow St.
St James St.
Chancellor St.
S. S
chel
l St. S.
Dar
ien
St.
S. H
utch
inso
n St
.
S. P
hilip
St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
Naudain St.
N. New St.
Appletree St.
Elfreths Aly
N. M
arvi
ne S
t.
N. C
lari
on S
t. Summer St.
Vine Street Expy
De
law
are
Riv
er
Schuylki l l R
iver
LoganCircle
FranklinSquare
LovePark
SegerPark
WashingtonSquareRittenhouse
Square
IndependenceNational
Historical Park
VeteransMemorial Park
PalumboPlayground
Starr GardenRec Center
SchuylkillRiver Park
FitlerSquare
US. Mint
City Hall
The BourseLibertyBell Center
IndependenceVisitor Center
NationalConstitution
CenterBetsyRossHouse
PennsylvaniaConvention
Center
KimmellCenter Pennsylvania
Hospital
WASHINGTON. SQUARE
WEST
SOCIETY HILL
SOUTHSTREET
RITTENHOUSE. SQUAREDISTRICT
PARKWAY/MUSEUMSDISTRICT
GRADUATE. HOSPITALDISTRICT
CHINATOWN
OLD CITY
PENN. CENTER
HAWTHORNE
BELLAVISTA
POINTBREEZE ITALIAN
MARKET
FABRIC ROW
ANTIQUE. ROW
JEWELERS' ROW PENN’SLANDING
IndependenceHall
pedestrianbridge
30thStreetStation
SuburbanStation
Market EastStation
Pier 3
Pier 5
15TH-16TH
12TH-13TH
LOMBARD-SOUTH
WALNUT-LOCUST
RACE-VINECHINATOWN
9TH-10TH
8TH 8TH 2ND
5TH11TH13TH
JUNIPERCITYHALL
15TH
15TH19TH22ND
N. F
ront
St.
S. 5
th S
t.
S. B
road
St.
S. 1
7th
St.
S. 1
3th
St.
S. 1
3th
St.
N. 7
th S
t.
S. 2
1st S
t.
Race St.Race St.
S. Colum
bus Blvd.
Lombard St.Lombard St.Lombard St.
S. 4
th S
t.S.
4th
St.
Bainbridge St.
Kater St.
Callowhill St.
N. C
olum
bus
Blv
d.
S. C
olum
bus
Blv
d.
Queen St.
Wood St.Wood St.
Naudain St.
Pearl St.
Cuthbert St.
Carlton St.
Benjamin Franklin Pkwy
S. Q
uinc
e St
.
Florist St.
Fitzwater St.
N. J
unip
er S
t.
Waverly St.
N. 2
4th
St.
Madison Sq
Winter St.
DockSt.
Quarry St.
Gaskill St.
S. D
elhi
St.
Clinton St.
Waverly St.
Latimer St.
Moravian St.
Sansom St.
S. Penn Sq.
Park Towne Pl
S. V
an P
elt S
t.
Letit
ia S
t.
Fulton St.
S. B
ank
St.
Walden St.
Monroe St.
Philip Pl
S. Washington Sq
Kenilworth St.S. L
eith
gow
St.
N. 1
2th
St.
Manning St.
Chancellor St.
Ionic St.
S. 3
rd S
t.
Irving St.
N. 7
th S
t.
S. S
arta
in S
t.
Kater St.
Webster St.
Ludlow St.
Locust St.
Locust St.
Catharine St.
N. C
rosk
ey S
t.
S. 1
8th
St.
S. 1
8th
St.
Addison St.
S. P
ercy
St.
Arch St.Arch St.
S. Je
ssup
St.
Ranstead St.
S. 1
0th
St.
S. 7
th S
t.
S. W
atts
St.
Cypress St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Carlton St.
Webster St.
Wood St.
Rodman St.
N. W
ater
St.
Vine St.Vine St.
Vine St.
Rodman St. Rodman St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
Pearl St.
N. 1
0th
St.
Commerce St.
S. 2
4th
St.
S. 2
6th
St.
N. 5
th S
t.
.
aynel
Walnut St.
Benjamin Franklin Pkwy
Race St.
S. R
eese
St.
Rodman St.
Carlton St.
Old
2nd
St.
S. 2
nd S
t.
Addison St.
Cuthbert St.
Fulton St.
Vine St.
Panama St.
S. M
arsh
all S
t.
N. B
road
St.
Ranstead St. S. F
ront
St.
Kater St.
Clymer St. Clymer St.
Manning St.
S
Fulton St.
S. 1
9th
St.
N. Front St.
S. V
an P
elt S
t.
Locust St. Locust St.
Cherry St.Cherry St.
S. M
ildre
d S
t.
Pemberton St.
S. 2
nd S
t.
Irving St.
Cypress St.
S. Ju
nip
er S
t.
S. 2
nd S
t.
Cherry St.
Filbert St.Filbert St.
Bainbridge St.
Market St. Market St. Market St.
S. 2
3rd
St.
Vine St.N
. 23r
d S
t.
N. 1
9th
St.
Panama St.
S. 8
th S
t.
N. 2
0th
St.
N. 2
2nd
St.
S. 1
1th
St.
South St.
Webster St.
S. 1
5th
St.
S. H
icks
St.
S. C
lifto
n St
.
S. 2
0th
St.
Appletree St.
S. 1
9th
St.
South St. South St. South St.
S. 2
3rd
St.
Moravian St.
Ranstead St.
S. 1
1th
St.
N. 9
th S
t.
N. 8
th S
t.
E. P
assy
unk
Ave.
Waverly St.
Ionic St.
Dock St.
Cypress St.Cypress St.
Pemberton St.
Sansom St.
N. 1
7th
St.
S. P
ercy
St.
Pine St. Pine St. Pine St.
S. 2
5th
St.
Fulton St.
Delancey St.
Benjamin Franklin Pkwy
N. 1
0th
St.
N. 1
6th
St.
S. 1
6th
St.
S. 1
5th
St.
S. 1
6th
St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Ionic St.
S. 1
0th
St.
S. 2
2nd
St.
S. 2
2nd
St.
Catharine St.
Christian St. Christian St.
N. 5
th S
t.
Fitzwater St.
John F Kennedy Blvd.
S. 6
th S
t.
Church St.
Cuthbert St.
N. V
an P
elt S
t. Spring St.
S. W
atts
St.
Clymer St.
Chestnut St. Chestnut St. Chestnut St.
Manning St.
Bainbridge St.
Spring St.
Spruce St. Spruce St. Spruce St.
N. 3
rd S
t.
Walnut St.
Catharine St.
Delancey St.
N. W
ater
St.
S. 1
2th
St.
S. 1
2th
St.
Monroe St.Fitzwater St. Fitzwater St.
Naudain St.
Clover St.
N. W
atts
St.
N. M
ole
St.
Appletree St.
Ludlow St.
St James St.
Chancellor St.
S. S
chel
l St. S.
Dar
ien
St.
S. H
utch
inso
n St
.
S. P
hilip
St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
Naudain St.
N. New St.
Appletree St.
Elfreths Aly
N. M
arvi
ne S
t.
N. C
lari
on S
t. Summer St.
Vine Street Expy
Schuylki l l R
iver
LoganCircle
FranklinSquare
LovePark
SegerPark
WashingtonSquareRittenhouse
Square
IndependenceNational
Historical Park
VeteransMemorial Park
PalumboPlayground
Starr GardenRec Center
FitlerSquare
US. Mint
City Hall
The BourseLibertyBell Center
IndependenceVisitor Center
NationalConstitution
CenterBetsyRossHouse
PennsylvaniaConvention
Center
KimmellCenter Pennsylvania
Hospital
WASHINGTON SQUARE
WEST
SOCIETY HILL
SOUTHSTREET
RITTENHOUSE SQUAREDISTRICT
PARKWAY/MUSEUMSDISTRICT
GRADUATE HOSPITALDISTRICT
CHINATOWN
OLD CITY
PENN CENTER
HAWTHORNE
BELLAVISTA
POINTBREEZE ITALIAN
MARKET
FABRIC ROW
ANTIQUE. ROW
JEWELERS' ROW PENN’SLANDING
IndependenceHall
pedestrianbridge
SuburbanStation
Market EastStation
Pier 3
Pier 5
P P
M
M
MM
P
PM MMMM
MTTTT
M
95
95
6
676
676
0
0 1/4 mile
0.25 kilometer
CENTRALPHILADELPHIA
110˚ F
100˚ F
50˚ F
60˚ F
70˚ F
80˚ F
90˚ F
40˚ F
32˚ F
20˚ F
10˚ F
0˚ F
-10˚ F
-20˚ F
To convert F to C: subtract 32 and
multiply by 5/9 (0.555)To convert C to F:
multiply by 1.8and add 32
40˚ C
30˚ C
20˚ C
10˚ C
-18˚ C
0˚ C
-10˚ C
-30˚ C
32˚ F = 0˚ C
To convert.........................U.S. gallons to liters......................Liters to U.S. gallons.....................U.S. gallons to imperial gallons....Imperial gallons to U.S. gallons....Imperial gallons to liters...............Liters to imperial gallons..............
multiply by3.790.260.831.204.550.22
1 liter = 0.26 U.S. gallon1 U.S. gallon = 3.8 liters
To convert.......................... Ounces to grams.........................Grams to ounces..........................Pounds to kilograms.....................Kilograms to pounds....................
multiply by28.350.035
0.452.20
1 gram = 0.04 ounce1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
1 ounce = 28 grams1 pound = 0.4555 kilogram
To convert......................... inches to centimeters....................centimeters to inches....................feet to meters................................meters to feet................................yards to meters..............................meters to yards..............................miles to kilometers........................kilometers to miles........................
multiply by2.54
0.39 0.30
3.28 0.91
1.091.610.62
1 mile = 1.6 km1 km = 0.62 mile
1 ft = 0.30 m1 m = 3.3 ft
Fold Foldspine=10mm
1 The Best Full-Day Tours
COPYRIG
HTED M
ATERIAL
8Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs The Best in One Day
Previous Page: A rendering of The Thinker from the Rodin Museum.
CHINATOWN
8TH 8TH
2ND
5TH
N. F
ront
St.
N. 7
th S
t.
Race St.
Lombard St.
S. 4
th S
t.
N. C
olum
bus
Blv
d.
S. C
olum
bus
Blv
d.
Willow St.
Florist St.
New St.
DockSt.
Quarry St.
Gaskill St.
Letit
ia S
t.
S. B
ank
St.
Philip Pl
S. Washington Sq
Kenilworth St.
Manning Walk
S. L
eith
gow
St.
Manning St.
Ionic St.
S. 3
rd S
t.
N. 7
th S
t.
Kater St.
Locust St.
Locust St.
Addison St.
Callowhill St.
Arch St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Wood St.
Rodman St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
N. 5
th S
t.
Race St.
S. R
eese
St.
Old
2nd
St.
S. 2
nd S
t.
S. M
arsh
all S
t.
S. F
ront
St.
N. Front St.
Cherry St.Cherry St.
S. 2
nd S
t.Filbert St.
Cuthbert St.
Ludlow St.
Bainbridge St.
Market St.
Vine St.
S. 8
th S
t.
South St.South St.
Ranstead St. Ranstead St.
N. 8
th S
t.
Dock St.
Cypress St.
Sansom St.
Pine St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Ionic St.
N. 5
th S
t.
S. 6
th S
t.
Church St.Church St.
Chestnut St.
Spruce St.
N. 3
rd S
t.
Bre
ad S
t.
N. 4
th S
t.
Walnut St.
Delancey St.
N. W
ater
St.
S. P
hilip
St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
Naudain St.S. Philip St.
N. New St.
Appletree St.
ElfrethsAlley
Vine Street Expy
FranklinSquare
WashingtonSquare
IndependenceNational
Historical Park
VeteransMemorial Park
Starr GardenRec Center
US Mint
The Bourse
SOCIETY HILL
SOUTHSTREET
OLD CITY
JEWELERS'ROW
CHINATOWN
8TH 8TH
2ND
5TH
N. F
ront
St.
N. 7
th S
t.
t.
Lombard St.
S. 4
th S
t.
N. C
olum
bus
Blv
d.
S. C
olum
bus
Blv
d.
Willow St.
Florist St.
New St.
DockSt.
Quarry St.
Gaskill St.
Letit
ia S
t.
S. B
ank
St.
Philip Pl
S. Washington Sq
K il th St
Manning Walk
Leith
gow
St.
Manning St.
Ionic St.
S. 3
rd S
t.
N. 7
th S
t.
Kater St.
Locust St.
Locust St.
Addison St.
Callowhill St.
Arch St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Wood St.
Rodman St.
Am
eric
an S
t.
N. 5
th S
t.
Race St.
S. R
eese
St.
Old
2nd
St.
S. 2
nd S
t.
arsh
all S
t.
S. F
ront
St.
N. Front St.
Cherry St.Cherry St.
S. 2
nd S
t.Filbert St.
Cuthbert St.
Ludlow St.
Bainbridge St.
Market St.
Vine St.
S. 8
th S
t.
South St.South St.
Ranstead St. Ranstead St.
N. 8
th S
t.
Dock St.
Cypress St.
Sansom St.
Pine St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Ionic St.
N. 5
th S
t.
S. 6
th S
t.
Church St.Church St.
Chestnut St.
Spruce St.
N. 3
rd S
t.
Bre
ad S
t.
N. 4
th S
t.
Walnut St.
Delancey St.
N. W
ater
St.
S. P
hilip
St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
Naudain St.S. Philip St.
N. New St.
Appletree St.
ElfrethsAlley
Vine Street Expy
FranklinSquare
WashingtonSquare
IndependenceNational
Historical Park
VeteransMemorial Park
Starr GardenRec Center
US Mint
The Bourse
SOCIETY HILL
SOUTHSTREET
OLD CITY
JEWELERS'ROW
M
PM MM
95
95
676
676
9
8
7
5
4
3
2
10
1
36
1
4
3
2 7
105
8
9
36Independence Visitor Center
Independence Hall
Liberty Bell
National Constitution Center
Christ Church Burial Ground
Fork Etc.
Franklin Court
Christ Church
Betsy Ross House
Elfreth’s Alley
200 yds0
0 200 m
SEPTA Subway
Trolley
Church
Synagogue
T
M
9The B
est in O
ne
Day
This 1-day tour offers a glimpse of early Philadelphia, and, therefore, insight into early America—starting with the Revolu-
tion. For the next few days, the country’s “most historic square mile” will be your stomping grounds: Wear comfortable shoes, and don’t be afraid to chat up the costumed Colonials. START: Independence
Visitor Center, 6th & Market sts.
1 ★★ Independence Visitor Center. This welcome center, with its self-service kiosks, concierge ser-vices, umpteen maps and brochures, and box office for tickets to Indepen-dence Hall and historic homes isn’t just a great first stop for a tour of his-toric Philadelphia, it’s a great first stop for any tour of Philadelphia.
@ 1⁄2 hr. 6th & Market sts. y 800/537-7676. www.independencevisitorcenter.com. Daily from 8:30am.
2 ★★★ Independence Hall. Where it all went down: the Declara-tion of Independence, the Articles of Confederation, and the U.S. Consti-tution. Squeeze into the stately spaces where George Washington (1732–1799), Thomas Jefferson (1743–1826), John Adams (1735–1826), Benjamin Franklin (1706–1790), and their Colonial brethren conceived of a country affording its citizens “life, liberty and the pur-suit of happiness.” Don’t miss
Washington’s “Rising Sun Chair,” rare maps of the 13 colonies, and the tipstaff (a wooden and brass instrument used to subdue rowdy onlookers in the courtroom). Half-hour tours are guided. @ 1 hr.; includes wait in line. Chestnut St., btw. 5th & 6th sts. y 215/965-2305. www.nps.gov/inde. Mar 1–Dec 31, tickets are required (free at Visitor Center or $1.50 in advance online: pick up at least one hour before tour). Daily 9am–5pm.
3 ★★★ Liberty Bell. The cracked, one-ton symbol of Ameri-can independence and equality resides in a $12.6-million glass gazebo across Chestnut Street from Independence Hall. Interactive exhibits aim to keep you from reach-ing out and ringing the bell. (Don’t even think about it.) @ 1⁄2 hr. Free admission (tickets not required; mandatory security check). Daily 9am–5pm.
Guided tours of Independence Hall leave every half-hour.
CHINATOWN
8TH 8TH
2ND
5TH
N. F
ront
St.
N. 7
th S
t.
Race St.
Lombard St.
S. 4
th S
t.
N. C
olum
bus
Blv
d.
S. C
olum
bus
Blv
d.
Willow St.
Florist St.
New St.
DockSt.
Quarry St.
Gaskill St.
Letit
ia S
t.
S. B
ank
St.
Philip Pl
S. Washington Sq
Kenilworth St.
Manning Walk
S. L
eith
gow
St.
Manning St.
Ionic St.
S. 3
rd S
t.
N. 7
th S
t.
Kater St.
Locust St.
Locust St.
Addison St.
Callowhill St.
Arch St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Wood St.
Rodman St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
N. 5
th S
t.
Race St.
S. R
eese
St.
Old
2nd
St.
S. 2
nd S
t.
S. M
arsh
all S
t.
S. F
ront
St.
N. Front St.
Cherry St.Cherry St.
S. 2
nd S
t.
Filbert St.Cuthbert St.
Ludlow St.
Bainbridge St.
Market St.
Vine St.
S. 8
th S
t.
South St.South St.
Ranstead St. Ranstead St.
N. 8
th S
t.
Dock St.
Cypress St.
Sansom St.
Pine St.
S. 7
th S
t.
Ionic St.
N. 5
th S
t.
S. 6
th S
t.
Church St.Church St.
Chestnut St.
Spruce St.
N. 3
rd S
t.
Bre
ad S
t.
N. 4
th S
t.
Walnut St.
Delancey St.
N. W
ater
St.
S. P
hilip
St.
S. A
mer
ican
St.
Naudain St.S. Philip St.
N. New St.
Appletree St.
ElfrethsAlley
Vine Street Expy
FranklinSquare
WashingtonSquare
IndependenceNational
Historical Park
VeteransMemorial Park
Starr GardenRec Center
US Mint
The Bourse
SOCIETY HILL
SOUTHSTREET
OLD CITY
JEWELERS'ROW
10Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs 9:30am–5pm, Sat 9:30am–6pm, Sun
noon–5pm.
5 ★ Christ Church Burial Ground. The 1719 expansion of Christ Church (see p 11, bullet 8), includes the graves of signers of the Declaration of Independence, including, most notably, that of Ben-jamin Franklin. Join the throngs who have tossed a penny on it (through the fence) for good luck. @ 1⁄4 hr. SE corner of 5th & Arch sts. www.oldchristchurch.org. Closed to the public.
4 ★★ = National Constitu-tion Center. The newest addition to Independence Park is the world’s only museum devoted to the U.S. Constitution—which is way more fun than it sounds. There are live performances-in-the-round that explain the document’s history, as well as interactive exhibits that let you take the Presidential Oath of Office, don a Supreme Court robe, stand next to a Declaration signer, and examine hang-ing chads from the 2000 election. @ 11⁄2 hr. 525 Arch St. y 215/409-6600. www.constitutioncenter.org. Admission $12 adults, $11 seniors, $8 chil-dren 4–12. Buy tickets in advance; arrive 20 minutes early for timed theater show. Mon–Fri
The National Constitution Center has per-formances and interactive exhibits dedi-cated to the U.S. Constitution.
The museum at Franklin Court pays tribute to the man’s many careers.
6 ★★ Fork Etc. Step back, momentarily, into modern times for a tasty salad, light sandwich, natural soda, cappuccino, and the day’s papers at this quick-stop gourmet cafe. For a longer lunch, try Etc.’s slightly-more-formal sister restau-rant, Fork, next door (see p 106). 308 Market St. y 215/625-9425. www.forkrestaurant.com. $–$$.
7 ★★ = Franklin Court. Brick arches disguise Ben Franklin’s for-
mer home, which, since it was long ago demol-
ished, is now repre-sented by a steel frame girder. Nearby is a museum that
pays tribute to Franklin’s
many
11The B
est in O
ne
Day
actually, if she really sewed the first flag). No matter: This restored dwell-ing remains a minute joy to explore, from cellar kitchen to wee bedrooms to flag-filled gift shop. @ 1⁄2 hr. 239 Arch St. y 215/686-1252. www.betsyrosshouse.org. Suggested donation $3 adults, $2 students; audio tour $5. Apr–Sept daily 10am–5pm; Oct–Mar Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.
0 ★★★ Elfreth’s Alley. The old-est continuously inhabited street in the States could teach you a thing or two about getting along with the neighbors. Small, two-story row houses line the narrow cobblestone lane, the original homes of trades-men, artisans, and urbanites of varied religions and ethnicities. Number 126, the Mantua Maker’s House (cape maker) is the alley’s museum, complete with 18th-cen-tury garden and dressmaker’s shop.
@ 1 hr. Off 2nd St., toward Front St., btw. Arch & Race sts. y 215/574-0560. www.elfrethsalley.org. Free admission to visitor center & gift shop; Mantua Maker’s House $5 adults, $1 children (includes 20-min-ute tour). Mar–Oct Tues noon–5pm, Wed–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm; Nov–Feb Thurs–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun noon–5pm.
careers, shows a 22-minute film about The Real Ben Franklin, and operates a post office that hand-stamps postcards. @ 1 hr. 314–322 Market St. y 215/965-2305. Free admission. Daily 11am–5pm. Post office closed Sun.
8 ★★ Christ Church. Old City might be proudest of this English Palladian landmark, oft regarded as the neighborhood’s most important Colonial building. George Washing-ton had his own pew here. William Penn (1644–1718) received his bap-tism in the font, a gift from London’s All Hallows’ Church. Although plaques and memorial markers abound, keep in mind that person seated beneath the circa 1744 chan-delier could be one of the active church’s congregants. A volunteer guide in the nave will gladly offer an impromptu tour—and hush you, if necessary. @ 1⁄2 hr. 2nd & Market sts. y 215/922-1695. www.christchurchphila.org. Free admission; donations accepted. Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 12:30–5pm. Closed Mon–Tues in Jan–Feb.
9 ★ = Betsy Ross House. The jury’s out on whether Betsy Ross (1752–1836), the seamstress of the Stars and Stripes, actually lived in this teensy abode (or,
Elfreth’s Alley is the oldest continually inhabited street in the United States.
12Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs The Best in Two Days
N. 2nd St.
Mar
ket S
t.
Wal
nut S
t.
Spru
ce S
t.
S. 5th St.
Lanc
aste
r Ave
.
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N. 9th St.
S. 21st St.
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N. 29th St.R
ace
St.
Rac
e St
.
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bar
d S
t.Lo
mb
ard
St.
N. 33rd St.
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low
St.
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Park
side
Ave
.
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N. 38th St.
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elto
n A
ve.
N. 36th St.
Filb
ert S
t.
N. 46th St.
Cal
low
hill
St.
Spri
ng G
ard
en S
t.
N. 43rd St.
S. 44th St.
S. Columbus Blvd.
Parr
ish
St.
Will
ow S
t.
S. C
onco
urse
St.
S. 40th St.
Pennsy
lvania
Ave
.
N. 47th St.
Asp
en S
t.
Woo
d S
t.
N. C
onco
urse
Dr
S. 38th St.
S. 39th St.
N. 44th St.
Blac
k Rd
N. Union St.
S. C
olle
ge A
ve.
W. C
ambr
idge
St.
N. Brooklyn St.
Ham
ilton
St.
N. 18th St. S. 18th St. S. 18th St.
Arc
h St
.A
rch
St.
Spri
ng G
ard
en S
t.
S. 10th St.
N. 18th St.
S. Melville St.
N. 24th St.
N. 12th St.
Vin
e St
.N. 17th St.
N. 31st St.
S. 24th St.
N. 33rd St.
Gre
en S
t.
Wal
nut S
t.W
alnu
t St.
N. 24th St.
Bro
wn
St.
Parr
ish
St.
Rac
e St
.
N. 25th St.
S. 2nd St.
N. 39th St.
N. Broad St.
S. Front St.
N. 20th St.
N. 25th St.
S. 42nd St.
N. 49th St.
N. 9th St.
W. G
irar
d A
ve.
S. 49th St.
Frankford Ave.
S. 2nd St.
Filb
ert S
t.
Mar
ket S
t.M
arke
t St.
Mar
ket S
t.
N. 22nd St.
Ridge Ave.
S. 11th St.
Man
tua
Ave
.
S. 15th St.
N. 31st St.
S. 20th St.
S. 19th St.
Ogd
en S
t.
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xfor
d S
t.
N. 8th St.N. 8th St.
N. 32nd St.
Haz
el A
ve.
N. 28th St.
Sprin
g G
arde
n St
.
N. 17th St.
Pin
e St
.P
ine
St.
Pin
e St
.
N. 35th St.
N. 16th St.
Belmont Ave.
N. 10th St.
S. 16th St.N. 16th St.
S. 7th St.
Pear
l St.
John
F K
enne
dy
Blv
d.
N. 49th St.
S. 6th St.
N. Preston St.
Osa
ge A
ve.
Pop
lar
St.
Popl
ar S
t.
Che
stnu
t St.
Che
stnu
t St.W. T
hom
pso
n St
.
Spru
ce S
t.
Fair
mou
nt A
ve.
N. 3rd St.
Wal
nut S
t.
W. G
irar
d A
ve.
Fair
mou
nt A
ve.
S. 12th St.
W. J
effe
rson
St.
W. O
xfor
d S
t.
W. J
effe
rson
St.
N. 30th St.
Bro
wn
St.
Delaware River
Schuylk
i ll
Riv
er
Fair
mou
ntPa
rk
Lee
Park
Fran
klin
Squa
re
Was
hing
ton
Squa
re
Gir
ard
Park
Fran
cisv
ille
Play
grou
nd
Schu
ylki
llRi
ver
Park
Phila
delp
hia
City
Zoo U
NIV
ER
SIT
Y O
FP
EN
NS
YL
VA
NIA
GIR
AR
DC
OL
LE
GE
DR
EX
EL
UN
IVE
RS
ITY
N. 2nd St.
Mar
ket S
t.
Wal
nut S
t.
Spru
ce S
t.
S. 5th St.
Lanc
aste
r Ave
.
S. 13th St.
N. 9th St.
S. 21st St.
N. 22nd St.
N. 29th St.R
ace
St.
Rac
e St
.
N. 4th St.
Lom
bar
d S
t.Lo
mb
ard
St.
N. 33rd St.
S. 4th St.
Lud
low
St.
N. 34th St.
N. 26th St.
Park
side
Ave
.
N. 48th St.
N. 38th St.
Pow
elto
n A
ve.
N. 36th St.
Filb
ert S
t.
N. 46th St.
Cal
low
hill
St.
Spri
ng G
ard
en S
t.
N. 43rd St.
S. 44th St.
S. Columbus Blvd.
Parr
ish
St.
Will
ow S
t.
S. 40th St.
Pennsy
lvania
Ave
.
N. 47th St.
Asp
en S
t.
Woo
d S
t.
S. 38th St.
S. 39th St.
N. 44th St.
Blac
k Rd
N. Union St.
S. C
olle
ge A
ve.
W. C
ambr
idge
St.
N. Brooklyn St.
Ham
ilton
St.
N. 18th St. S. 18th St. S. 18th St.
Arc
h St
.A
rch
St.
Spri
ng G
ard
en S
t.
S. 10th St.
N. 18th St.
S. Melville St.
N. 24th St.
N. 12th St.
Vin
e St
.N. 17th St.
N. 31st St.
S. 24th St.
N. 33rd St.
Gre
en S
t.
Wal
nut S
t.W
alnu
t St.
N. 24th St.
Bro
wn
St.
Parr
ish
St.
Rac
e St
.
N. 25th St.
S. 2nd St.
N. 39th St.
N. Broad St.
S. Front St.
N. 20th St.
N. 25th St.
S. 42nd St.
St
N. 9th St.
W. G
irar
d A
ve.
S. 49th St.
Frankford Ave.
S. 2nd St.
Filb
ert S
t.
Mar
ket S
t.M
arke
t St.
Mar
ket S
t.
N. 22nd St.
Ridge Ave.
S. 11th St.
Man
tua
Ave
.
S. 15th St.
N. 31st St.
S. 20th St.
S. 19th St.
Ogd
en S
t.
W. O
xfor
d S
t.
N. 8th St.N. 8th St.
N. 32nd St.
HlA
N. 28th St.
Sprin
g G
arde
n St
.
N. 17th St.
Pin
e St
.P
ine
St.
Pin
e St
.
N. 35th St.
N. 16th St.
Belmont Ave.
N. 10th St.
S. 16th St.N. 16th St.
S. 7th St.
Pear
l St.
John
F K
enne
dy
Blv
d.
S. 6th St.
N. Preston St.
Osa
ge A
ve.
Pop
lar
St.
Popl
ar S
t.
Che
stnu
t St.
Che
stnu
t St.W. T
hom
pso
n St
.
Spru
ce S
t.
Fair
mou
nt A
ve.
N. 3rd St.
Wal
nut S
t.
W. G
irar
d A
ve.
Fair
mou
nt A
ve.
S. 12th St.
W. J
effe
rson
St.
W. O
xfor
d S
t.
W. J
effe
rson
St.
N. 30th St.
Bro
wn
St.
Delaware River
Schuylk
i ll
Riv
er
Fair
mou
ntPa
rk
Lee
Park
Fran
klin
Squa
re
Was
hing
ton
Squa
re
Gir
ard
Park
Fran
cisv
ille
Play
grou
nd
Schu
ylki
llRi
ver
Park
Phila
delp
hia
City
Zoo U
NIV
ER
SIT
Y O
FP
EN
NS
YL
VA
NIA
GIR
AR
DC
OL
LE
GE
DR
EX
EL
UN
IVE
RS
ITY
4
2
5
7
6
1
1
1
1
33
76
95
676
676
676
1 42 75 6
Tro
lley
Wo
rks
Tou
r
Ph
ilad
elp
hia
Mu
seu
m o
f Art
Wat
erw
ork
s
Bo
ath
ou
se R
ow
Ro
din
Mu
seu
m
Swan
n M
emo
rial
Fo
un
tain
Will
iam
Pen
n s
tatu
e
33
1 m
i0 0
1 km
13The B
est in Tw
o D
ays
You’ve done enough walking. On day two, it’s time to take a load off (at least, for the morning) and get the lay of the
land. Of all of Philadelphia’s touring methods—amphibious landing vehicles, horses-and-carriages—the Victorian-style trolleys are my favorites. START: 5th & Market sts, or any of the 20 stops along the
trolley’s route.
1 ★★ = Trolley Works Tour. A 24-hour pass for the sur-prisingly speedy rail-less trolleys and double-decker buses gets you the most comprehensive tour of downtown. On-and-off privileges and unlimited rides mean if Junior wants to see the fortress-like East-ern State Penitentiary (see p 48, bullet 8) again, or if you regret not picking up those vintage earbobs on Antique Row, a second chance at satisfaction is just a short ride away.
@ 11⁄2 hr. 5th & Market sts., 19 more stops along route, plus shuttles from hotels. y 215/389-TOUR. www.phillytour.com. 24-hour pass: $27 adults, $25 seniors, $18 children. Apr–Nov Mon–Fri 9:30am–5:30pm, Sat–Sun 9:30am–6pm; Dec–Mar daily 10am–4pm.
2 ★★ Philadelphia Museum of Art. Hop off at this Greco-Roman temple on a hill, jog up the steps à la Rocky, and get lost in 80-some galleries of art and objets, even a medieval cloister. Cézanne’s (1839–1906) monumental Bathers is here, as are works by native Philadelphian Thomas Eakins (1844–1916), clas-sics from Van Gogh (1853–1890), Poussin (1594–1665), Rubens (1577–1640), Duchamp (1887–1968), and Monet (1840–1926). Recent special exhibitions include Cézanne and Renoir (1841–1919), and across the street at the newer Perelman Building, Marcel Wanders (1963– ) and Frank Gehry (1929– ).
@ 2 hrs. 26th St. & Ben Franklin Pkwy. y 215/763-1000. www.philamuseum.org. Admission $16 adults,
N. 2nd St.
Mar
ket S
t.
Wal
nut S
t.
Spru
ce S
t.
S. 5th St.
Lanc
aste
r Ave
.
S. 13th St.
N. 9th St.
S. 21st St.
N. 22nd St.
N. 29th St.
Rac
e St
.R
ace
St.
N. 4th St.
Lom
bar
d S
t.Lo
mb
ard
St.
N. 33rd St.
S. 4th St.
Lud
low
St.
N. 34th St.
N. 26th St.
Park
side
Ave
.
N. 48th St.
N. 38th St.
Pow
elto
n A
ve.
N. 36th St.
Filb
ert S
t.
N. 46th St.
Cal
low
hill
St.
Spri
ng G
ard
en S
t.
N. 43rd St.
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S. Columbus Blvd.
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St.
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ow S
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onco
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St.
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Pennsy
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Ave
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Blac
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olle
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ve.
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ambr
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St.
N. Brooklyn St.
Ham
ilton
St.
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Frankford Ave.
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arke
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Ridge Ave.
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Belmont Ave.
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N. 30th St.
Bro
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St.
Delaware River
Schuylk
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Riv
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mou
ntPa
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Lee
Park
Fran
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The Philadelphia Museum of Art features more than 80 galleries.
14Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
You’ll spend most of your time on the first and second floors of this U-shaped museum. Begin where your interests lie—especially at j Special Exhibitions, which are almost always world-class, usually require advance reservations, and charge additional admission. Next, explore works by Thomas Eakins, as well as Shaker and Pennsylvania Dutch furnishings in the k Ameri-can Collection. Cross the grand stair (looking up to see Alexander Calder’s [1898–1976] “Ghost” mobile) to l Modern and Con-temporary Art, where you can find iconoclastic pieces by Jasper Johns (1930– ), Marcel Duchamp, Cy Twombly (1928– ), and Constantin Brancusi (1876–1957). Before you
head upstairs, m European Art 1850–1900 deserves your perusal: Review your art history lessons with works representative of the Impres-sionist, Symbolist, Naturalist, and Art Nouveau styles—including Cézannes, Cassatts (1844–1926), Monets, Van Goghs, and amazing period objets. The second floor shows earlier pieces from Europe: n 1500–1850 French and English period rooms, Poussins and Rubenses, and o 1100–1500: Renaissance works, a 15th-century Venetian bedroom, a French Gothic chapel, and an p Asian gallery that includes an interesting mix: a Japanese teahouse, Persian carpets, and a 16th-century Indian temple hall.
SECONDFLOOR
FIRSTFLOOR
GROUNDFLOOR
2A
2B2C
2D
2E 2F
2G
Philadelphia Museum of Art
$14 seniors, $12 students (does not include special exhibits); first Sunday of the month, pay what you wish.
Tue–Sun 10am–5pm (Fri until 8:45pm).
15
3 ★ Waterworks. Just behind the museum, a 200-year-old munici-pal water system has been cleverly restored as an elegant river-top res-taurant. Try the grilled haloumi cheese, the lobster BLT, and a bot-tle from the water list. 640 Water Works Dr. y 215/236-9000. www.thewaterworksrestaurant.com. $–$$$.
The Best in
Two
Days
Alexander. Also known as “The Fountain of the Three Rivers,” the aquatic sculpture represents the region’s three major waterways: the Schuylkill, Delaware, and Wissa-hickon rivers. @ 20 min. 1 Logan Sq., at 18th St. & Ben Franklin Pkwy.
7 ★★★ William Penn statue. Finally, go a few blocks more to reach City Hall and Philadelphia’s biggest statue of all. Created by Alexander Milne Calder (1846–1923), father to Alexander Stirling, this enormous topper represents Philadelphia’s original city planner and Pennsylvania’s namesake.
@ 20 min. Broad & Market sts.
4 ★★ Boathouse Row. From the restaurant, head toward the river, along Kelly Drive, to this iconic row of 10 antique (circa 1850s–1870s) clubhouses belonging to collegiate and other amateur crew groups and teams. You’ll likely glimpse some oarsmen sculling along the river. Come back, if you can, after dark to see the houses lit up. @ 1⁄2 hr.
5 ★★★ Rodin Museum. Farther up the Parkway, stop by this Paul Cret–designed mini-museum (on the street’s north side). Here, a render-ing of The Thinker and the Gates of Hell will greet you to the largest col-lection of Rodin’s (1840–1917) works outside of Paris. It’s a lovely spot, really, replete with major sculpture, plaster models, and origi-nal sketchbooks. @ 1 hr. 22nd St. & Ben Franklin Pkwy. y 215/568-6026. www.rodinmuseum.org. Sug-gested admission $5. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.
6 ★★ Swann Memorial Foun-tain. A few more blocks, and you’ll run into Logan Circle and its classi-cal centerpiece fountain, a creation of Alexander Stirling Calder (1870–1945), the son of City Hall sculptor
The clubhouses along Boathouse Row date back to the mid-19th century.
16Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs The Best in Three Days
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bar
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Fitz
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er S
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erly
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DockSt
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Gas
kill
St.
Clin
ton
St.
Wav
erly
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enn
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S. Bank St.
Mon
roe
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lip P
l
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lwor
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t.
Man
ning
Wal
k
S. Leithgow St.
Man
ning
St.
Cha
ncel
lor
St.
Ioni
c St
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S. 3rd St.
Irvi
ng S
t.
N. 7th St.
S. Sartain St.
Kate
r St
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Web
ster
St.
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st S
t.
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st S
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S. 18th St. S. 18th St.
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dis
on S
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h St
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S. Jessup St.
S. Watts St.
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ebst
er S
t.
Rod
man
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man
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man
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S. American St.
S. Reese St.
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Cut
hber
t St.
S. Marshall St.
Ran
stea
d S
t.
S. Front St.
Kate
r St
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Cly
mer
St.
Cly
mer
St.
Fulto
n St
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Locu
st S
t.
S. Mildred St.
Irvi
ng S
t. Cyp
ress
St.
S. Juniper St.
S. 2nd St.
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ert S
t.Fi
lber
t St.
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nbri
dge
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ket S
t.M
arke
t St.
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ket S
t.
S. 8th St.
S. 11th St.
Sout
h St
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S. 15th St.S. Hicks St.
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h St
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uth
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avia
n St
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stea
d S
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k St
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Cyp
ress
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ress
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ber
ton
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om S
t.
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e St
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ine
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min
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nklin
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c St
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S. 10th St.
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hari
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t.Fi
tzw
ater
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rch
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hber
t St.
S. Watts St.
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stnu
t St.
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stnu
t St.
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nbri
dge
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ce S
t.Sp
ruce
St.N. 3rd St.
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nut S
t.
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ance
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.S. 12th St.S. 12th St.
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roe
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wat
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t.
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S. Broad St.
S. 13th St. S. 13th St.
S. Columbus Blvd.
Lom
bar
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ard
St.
S. 4th St.
S. Columbus Blvd.
S. Quince St.
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t.
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.
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St.
Clin
ton
St.
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t.
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enn
Sq
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S. Bank St.
Mon
roe
St.
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l.
Keni
lwor
th S
t.
Man
ning
Wal
k
S. Leithgow St.
Man
ning
St.
Cha
ncel
lor
St.
Ioni
c St
.
S. 3rd St.
Irvi
ng S
t.
N. 7th St.
S. Sartain St.
Kate
r St
.
Locu
st S
t.
Locu
st S
t.
S. 18th St. S. 18th St.
Ad
dis
on S
t.
S. Jessup St.
S. Watts St.
S. 7th St.
Rod
man
St.
Rod
man
St.
Rod
man
St.
S. American St.
S. Reese St.
Old 2ndSt.
S. 2nd St.
Cut
hber
t St.
S. Marshall St.
Ran
stea
d S
t.
S. Front St.
Kate
r St
.
Cly
mer
St.
Cly
mer
St.
Fulto
n St
.
Locu
st S
t.
S. Mildred St.
Irvi
ng S
t. Cyp
ress
St.
S. Juniper St.
S. 2nd St.
Filb
ert S
t.Fi
lber
t St.
Bai
nbri
dge
St.
Mar
ket S
t.M
arke
t St.
Mar
ket S
t.
S. 8th St.
S. 11th St.
Sout
h St
.
S. 15th St.S. Hicks St.
S. Clifton St.
Sout
h St
.So
uth
St.
Mor
avia
n St
.
Ran
stea
d S
t.
S. 11th St.
N. 9th St. S. 9th St.
N. 8th St.
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.
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ress
St.
Pem
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ton
St.
Sans
om S
t.
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S. 7th St.
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.
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Cat
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Bai
nbri
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ce S
t.Sp
ruce
St.N. 3rd St.
Wal
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17The B
est in Th
ree
Days
So, you’ve done high-brow culture and big-time history. On day three, it’s time to get to know the city’s inimitable blend of
gorgeous, gritty, and gourmet—the essential components that make Philadelphia . . . Philly. Start with a brisk walk. (You’ll need the exercise: Soon, you’ll be eating your way through 9th Street’s Italian Market.) START: Columbus Blvd. at Walnut St.
1 Penn’s Landing. The nicest time of day to visit the pedestrian-friendly Delaware Riverfront is morning, with the seagulls and jog-gers. No longer the bustling port it once was, the area is nonetheless a decent place to stroll, to gaze across the river at Camden, New Jersey, and if you’re into shipbuild-ing and seafaring, to return to later, to visit the Independence Seaport Museum, USS Becuna, USS Olympia, and the four-mast-tall ship the Moshulu, converted into a restau-rant (see p 96). For now, however, walk south along the water, past the Art Deco–inspired Hyatt Regency, then cross back over Columbus Boulevard at Spruce Street. @ 1⁄2 hr. Columbus Blvd at Walnut St. www.delawareriverwaterfrontcorp.com.
2 ★★ Society Hill. Back on the “mainland,” you can find the very Philly dichotomy of living styles. To the north: I.M. Pei’s (1917– ) circa
1963 modernist Society Hill Towers. To the west and south: Historic brick Colonial-, Georgian-, and Fed-eral-style townhouses, some of the city’s first. Society Hill, a neighbor-hood loosely bound by Walnut and South streets, the river, and 8th Street, gets its name from the Free Society of Traders, a wealthy 18th-century group of Quaker financiers who footed some of William Penn’s bills and who resided here. Today, the area is considered the city’s sec-ond-most sought-after real estate, after Rittenhouse Square. (I think Society Hill is infinitely more charm-ing.) To really get a flavor for the blend of history here, explore a few blocks and be sure to seek out details such as “busybody” mirrors in upper-floor windows, invented by Ben Franklin, used by residents to see who’s at the door without hav-ing to descend the stairs; original wrought-iron boot scrapers; and sidewalks that bear antique hitching
Penn’s Landing is home to the four-masted tall ship Moshulu, now a restaurant.
18Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs and is again—an open-air market in
continuous, English-style sheds. And it’s attached to the nation’s old-est surviving volunteer firehouse. Weekends in the spring through fall, shop or browse Headhouse’s bus-tling farmer’s market. @ 15 min. 2nd St., btw. Pine & Lombard sts.
4 South Street. To skip this col-orful strip of sneaker stores, cos-tume jewelers, rustic cafes, and neon-lit food stands would be to miss out on the city’s beating ado-lescent heart. For decades, this one-way boulevard has been a sort of Mecca for the under-21 set. Notice the gum stuck to the tree trunks. Darn kids. @ 15 min.
posts and marble steps, relics of horse-and-buggy days. To explore the inside of a residence-turned-museum, call ahead to see the Powel House. @ 1⁄2 hr. 244 S. 3rd St. (See p 55.)
3 Headhouse Square. This all-brick replica of the original “New Market” or “Shambles” was once—
South Street is a beacon to the city’s adolescents.
5 ★★ Chapterhouse. This airy and art-dappled converted store-front serves great espresso, fresh fruit smoothies, and breakfast pas-tries to a crowd of serious medical students and laid-back neighbor-hood types. 620 S. 9th St. (btw. South & Bainbridge sts.). y 215/238-2626. $.
If you thought the Italian Market was gritty, you ain’t seen nothing ’til you’ve seen the Mummers’ Museum. This unintention-ally oddball homage to Philly’s New Year’s Day parade (think Mardi Gras with more feathers, fewer beads, less organization) encapsu-lates a local tradition that’s virtually ineffable, but here goes . . . Every January 1, hundreds of locals who’ve spent the previous year rehearsing routines, concocting opulently clownish costumes and over-the-top sets, and spray-painting shoes gold, “perform” (dance, play instruments, stumble intoxicatedly) up Broad Street. The parade descends, apparently, from an old wassailing-style tradi-tion. But this spot, with its strange decor and old-to-quite-old memorabilia, feels more eccentric than historic—in a good way, of course. @ 1⁄2 hr. 2nd St. (referred to as “Two” St.) & Washington Ave. y 215/336-3050. www.mummersmuseum.com. Admission $3.50 adults, $2.50 seniors & children.
Keeping Mum
19The B
est in Th
ree
Days
old-school Italian vendors of meats, cheeses, pastry, and produce—along with Mexican bodegas and tacquerias, and junk shops galore—is nothing if not vibrant.
6 ★★ Italian Market. The “old-est outdoor market in America” may not be the city’s best-kept thorough-fare—nor is it uniquely Italian—but it sure is fun to explore. The mix of
Federal St. E. P
assy
unk
Ave.
S. D
elhi
St.
Peters St.
Ernest St.
Manton St.
League St.
Latona St.
S. S
arta
in S
t.
S. M
arsh
all S
t.
S. Je
ssup
St.
S. 1
0th
St.
S. 1
2th
St.
S. 7
th S
t.S.
7th
St.
Webster St.
Montrose St.Hall St.
Kimball St.Kimball St.
S. F
airh
ill S
t.
Clymer St.
Fitzwater St.
Clymer St.
Fulton St.
Annin St.
S. M
ildre
d S
t.S.
Dar
ien
St.
League St.
Kimball St.S.
8th
St.
S. 9
th S
t.
S. 1
1th
St.
Titan St.
S. C
lifto
n St
.
Sears St.S. A
lder
St.
E. P
assy
unk
Ave.
S. 1
1th
St.
Carpenter St.
S. P
ercy
St.
Manton St.
Kimball St.
Sears St.
Catharine St.
Christian St.
Christian St.
S. R
and
olp
h St
.
Washington Ave.
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Washington Ave.
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6A
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200 yds0
0 200 m
Italian/9th Street Market
Circa 1918, T Sarcone’s turns out crusty sesame-seed loaves, gar-licky tomato pies, and pepperoni stuffed breads. U Isgro’s Pastry bakes amazing pine-nut cookies and cannoli. V Mew Gallery offers cool local art and crafts. W Fiorel-la’s makes sausage, right in front of you. X D’Angelo Bros: This butcher has seriously wild game. Y The Spice Corner offers bar-gain flavorings. This Z mural of former mayor Frank Rizzo is Philly’s most defaced public art. Head to ` Claudio’s for olives, charcuterie, and house-made moz-zarella. - DiBruno Brothers’
House of Cheese is the market’s most vaunted kiosk for amazing cheeses. 6 Fante’s offers a cook- and bake-ware bonanza. © Giordano’s has cheap produce out front, cheap parmesan and provolone in back. ® Geno’s is the neon half of the city’s famed cheese steak duel. Ç Pat’s King of Steaks is the duel’s other half, claiming original sandwich cred. Order one “wid” or “widout” onions and/or (Cheez) “Whiz.” @ 2–3 hrs. www.9thstreetitalianmarket.com. 9th St. btwn. Fitzwater & Federal sts. Mon–Sat 9am–4pm; Sun 9am–noon.
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9 ★★★ = Capogiro Gelato. The most delicious gelato and sorbets reside at this popular spot, where samples are free, scoops are pricey, and flavors include sublime fior di latte (milk), classic baccio (hazelnut), and off-beat-but-delish pineapple with Lan-caster mint. 13th & Sansom sts.
y 215/351-0900. www.capogirogelato.com. $. •
all-masonry crux of Philadelphia government, home to the mayor’s office, courtrooms, and other dubi-ously functional functionaries. Visi-tors may peek into an ornate reception room (no. 202) and Coun-cil Chambers (no. 400), and if City Hall’s whims permit, take a tour, too. (Call ahead to find out.) If you can, ride the elevator up into the statue of William Penn for an amaz-ing view. @ 1–2 hrs. Broad & Mar-ket sts. www.phila.gov/. Admission $5 observation deck; $10 tour, including observation deck. Mon–Fri 9:30am–4:15pm.
7 ★ Atwater Kent Museum. The only venue offering homage to history, that’s specifically Philadel-phia, lays out the birth (and continu-ing life) of the city via sublime art and amazing objects spanning early Quaker fashions to Norman Rock-well works to 2008 Phillies memora-bilia. On the first floor you can’t — and shouldn’t — miss the giant, walk-upon floor map detailing Philly’s every natural and man-made nook and cranny. @ 1 hr. 15 S. 7th St. (between Chestnut and Market sts.) y 215/685-4830. www.philadelphiahistory.org. Admission $5 adults; $3 seniors and students 13–17; free children 12 and under. Weds–Sun 1–5pm. (Museum closed for renovations until mid 2010.)
8 ★★ City Hall. Ready to walk again? Head toward the elaborate,
Visitors to City Hall can ride the elevator up into the statue of William Penn at the top of the building.
Capogiro Gelato features free samples and several outstanding flavors.