From Lawn to Lettuce:

Starting and Maintaining an Organic Garden in Your Yard

Chris ThoreauUBC Farm

16 April 2011

Quick IntroductionsName and one burning question!

7 things you need to grow food Assessing your yard…and yourself Soil, soil, soil Building Your Garden

Lawn GardenRaised beds

Sowing and Transplanting Watering Fertilizing and Regenerating Soil Composting Field walk and raised bed building

On the Menu Today…

Who are you and what’s on your mind?

A Collection Of Gardens

…a glimpse into the realm of the possible

1. Light (sunlight works well)2. Soil (preferably fertile) 3. Water (preferably clean; chlorine free)4. Heat (not too much; not too little)5. Time (where am I supposed to find that?)6. Skill (It'll come, trust me!)7. Money (umm, varies in its priority level)

7 Things You Need to Grow Good

Establish Garden/Build Soil

Sow Seeds/Transplant plants

Feed and water plants

Harvest plants

Feed soil with compost

Growing a Garden

What do you have to start with?

How suitable is your yard for food production?Soil

Does your yard have soil? If so, how much do you have? How good is it?

If not, can you build raised beds?Can you use planter boxes?

Sun exposureHow much direct sunlight does your yard get?A few things affect sun exposure in your yard

Trees Buildings Fences Time of year

Assessing You and Your Yard

What do you have to start with?

How suitable is your yard for food production?Water

You will need some water for your plantsYou may want to install a rain barrel as well

SecurityOpen yards more susceptible to vandalismEven a short fence can make a difference

Assessing You and Your Yard

What do you have to start with?

How suitable is your yard for food production?Patios

Many herbs and small crops thrive in plantersStrawberriesCilantro, Parsley, and Basil Tomatoes

IndoorsDon’t forget about sproutingYou can grow all your nutrient needs in a cupboard and on your

kitchen windowsill

Assessing You and Your Yard

Any questions about your yard?

GlovesShovel (spade)Digging forkHand forkHard rakeLeaf rake

Tools you will needWeeding tool/Hoe (many

to choose from)Hand pruners (secateurs) WheelbarrowMattockTrowel

Important Soil ConceptsSoil as a HabitatSoil as a Provider of Plant LifePhysical PropertiesTextureSoil Organic MatterStructureSoil Chemistry – pH; C:N Ratio

Your job is to energize the soil – to give it life……and the soil can pass on that life to plants

Soil 101

Soil as a HabitatMicro-organisms

BacteriaFungi – both good and badViruses

Macro-organisms Worms, Arthropods, Detrivores and Predators

PlantsSmall MammalsBirds

Soil 101

All powered by the sun

Soil as a HabitatWe need to treat soil like a living organism, which requires:

Food – organic matterWaterAir – in space between soil solidsShelter – protect from sun and rain

Cover cropsMulch

Living Dead Snow

Tender loving care…

Soil 101

Soil as a Provider of Plant LifeRooting substrateWater holding and releaseNutrient supply and reserveHeat sink and releaseSoil gasesSymbionts

Bacterial and fungalInsects

Soil 101

Soil Physical PropertiesThree main aspects of physical soil characteristics

Minerals (from rocks)Determine soil textureSandSilt Clay

Organic MatterPlants and RootsDetritus (decaying organic matter)Animal waste (including microbes)

Pore SpaceAir and water spaceHold nutrients in solution

Soil 101

Soil Texture The relative proportions of sand, silt, and clay; Or - how does the soil feel and act? Based on particle size and shape, but also on pore space

Very important soil principle – this should be the first thing you ask about a soil

Soil 101

Soil Texture

Sand Largest soil particles Also has largest pore space between particles Has gritty feel Water drains very easily Does not hold nutrients – AT ALL! Water carries nutrients away

Soil 101

Soil Texture

Silt Usually physically formed out of sand Feels soapy Hold and releases water well Flat or round in shape Holds very little charge Carried in moving water

Soil 101

Soil Texture

Clay Smallest soil mineral particle (< .002 mm) Has sticky feel Holds water very well Holds nutrients very well Platy-/flat-shaped particles Susceptible to compaction Many types of clays

Soil 101

Soil 101

Soil Texture

How to Determine Soil Texture Feel test

Gritty, soapy, or sticky – how much of each Worm Test

Pick up some soil, get it wet, and roll it into a worm or squeeze out a ribbon between your fingers

Clay soil makes a long worm or ribbon Silty soil makes a shorter worm or ribbon Sandy soil falls apart

Jar Test Shake sample of soil up in a jar – watch particles settle in order:

Sand Silt Clay

Soil 101

Soil Organic Matter Organic matter includes all biological materials – living and dead

We usually add dead organic matter to our soil: Dead and decaying plants or animals including weeds, food scraps Animal manures Microbial by products

Why is organic matter important? Increases soil’s water holding ability Stores and supplies nutrients to plants and microbes Holds soil particles together (structure); stabilizes soil

Reduces erosion risk Minimizes soil compaction Breaks up clay soil and holds together sandy soil

Soil 101

Soil Organic Matter

Most important soil management tool Should be between 10-20% or more of soil weight Not all organic matter is created equally

Avoid woody materials Though they make a good mulch for perennials

Should have carbon to nitrogen ratio of 24:1 or lower

Soil 101

Soil Organic Matter and Texture We add organic matter to the soil to change how the soil “acts”

Added to Sandy Soil OM increases water holding capacity Makes sandy soil more nutritious – holds nutrients better

Added to Clay Soil: OM increases drainage, loosens heavy clay soils

Added to Any Soil: Increases biological activity and diversity

Soil 101

Soil Structure How the soil fits together Think of soil as groups of particles and organic matter – not individual pieces

These groups are called Aggregates We promote good structure and aggregation through:

Maintaining a healthy habitat Adding organic matter Minimizing soil disturbance

Soil 101

Soil Structure

Soil 101

Soil Chemistry Soil chemistry is very complex and very important …but way too complicated to discuss here in detail!

Two important concepts to know for now: Carbon:Nitrogen Ratio Soil pH

Soil 101

Soil Chemistry Carbon:Nitrogen Ratio

Carbon = “browns” or dead material Nitrogen = “greens” or living/active materials Refers to the number of carbon molecules in the soil (or compost pile) relative to the number of nitrogen molecules

It is the nitrogen we are concerned with – it is the most important plant nutrient Ideal ratio is 24:1 or lower Why is this?

Bacteria need 24 C molecules for every 1 N molecule they consume Somewhat like balancing proteins can carbohydrates Microorganisms get to the nitrogen first – the plants get what is left Without nitrogen, plants cannot grow so well

Soil 101

Soil Chemistry Carbon:Nitrogen Ratio

Some sample C:N ratios Grass Clippings: 5-12:1 Fallen Leaves: 20-25:1 Sawdust: 350:1 Wood Chips: 500:1 Coffee Grounds: 20:1 Animal Manures: 10-15:1 Kitchen Scraps: 20-40:1

Soil 101

Soil Chemistry pH

Measure of soil acidity Scale of 1-14: 1 = most acidic; 14 = most alkaline/basic Desired pH is between 6 and 7 Different pH levels make certain nutrients available or unavailable Soils here are mostly acidic (low pH: 5.2 – 5.8) Add lime (calcium carbonate) to make less acidic (raise pH)

Soil 101

So where is this soil I am speaking of?

Under your grass

Somewhere else in the Lower Mainland

In other words – you can work with the soil you’ve got, or

you can bring in new soil

Only import soil if you need it - otherwise import compost

Ummm, Soil?

We will look at two approaches:

Converting lawn into garden space

Building raised beds

From Lawn to Lettuce - Using Your Soil

How you turn your lawn into soil depends on how quickly you want to have a garden:

From Lawn to Soil…but how?

Quick Approaches:

• Rototiller• Sod cutter• Hand turning• Combinations of the above

Not-so Quick Approaches:

• Smothering• Sheet Mulching

Quick Methods

Rototiller Quickest way to convert grass to soil Chops up grass and buries it and kills it

Chopping up grass allows it to decompose more quickly Loosens compacted soil

Continuous tilling damages soil Can cause subsoil compaction Destroys soil aggregates Also kills earthworms, fungi, and other beneficial organisms

From Lawn to Soil…but how?

Quick Methods

Rototiller Can loosen up soil before hand with pick axe or mattock Multiple passes can be done over several weeks to break down grass and “condition” soil

Subsequent cultivation can be done by hand Compost or manure can be added on second cultivation After tilling, grass takes time to break down, so planting cannot happen immediately

Can remove grass first with sod cutter Grass can be composted and used later

From Lawn to Soil…but how?

Quick Methods

Sod Cutter Removes some topsoil, grass, and tops of roots

Makes rototilling easier Area can be ready to plant quicker - less grass to decompose

Area can then be rototilled or dug by hand

Sod cutter is a heavy machine – lots of work! Another rental expense

From Lawn to Soil…but how?

Quick Methods

Hand Digging Use spade or garden fork or combination Most cost effective approach – especially on smaller areas Flip grass to expose roots and bury grass

Cuts off light Dries out roots kills grass

Area can be chopped up with mattock first – then dug

Grass takes longer to breakdown than rototilling

From Lawn to Soil…but how?

Not-so-Quick Methods

Smothering and Sheet Mulching Eliminating light from your lawn will cause it to die…slowly

Grass is unable to photosynthesize Becomes biologically active to quickly decompose grass The work can be done quickly but the process takes time

Good to do in winter to prepare for spring

From Lawn to Soil…but how?

Not-so-Quick Methods

Smothering and Sheet Mulching1. Let your grass grow quite long and then cut it to the ground

The grass acts as a nitrogen source2. Cover your cut grass with other high N materials and water

Manure Compost Food scraps

3. Cover with more material to block out the light Cardboard or newspaper Tarp or lumber wrap Old carpet Thick leaves (good final layer – looks better than cardboard)

From Lawn to Soil…but how?

Not-so-Quick Methods

Smothering and Sheet Mulching4. The covered areas will now be biologically active and soil

organisms will decompose the grass and leave the soil bare4. This process also tends to loosen the soil significantly

5. Leave covered all winter (or spring/early summer) Make sure grass stays well covered Secure top material well to prevent blowing off

6. Remove tarp if used. Then: Dig materials into the soil which should now be relatively loose Add compost Create raised beds if desired

7. You should now be ready to plant!

From Lawn to Soil…but how?

Not-so-Quick Methods

From Lawn to Soil…but how?

Not-so-Quick Methods

From Lawn to Soil…but how?

Raised Beds - Wood

Raised Beds - WoodEasy to build and install

Can be 4” to 24” tallCan be done quicklyCab be built on concreteEasy to manageAesthetically pleasing (perhaps)Use Cedar or synthetic lumberFurther treat Cedar w/Lifetime

More expensiveRequires importing soil

Raised Beds - WoodProcess is easy

Mark out the area(s) for your raised bed(s) with twineChop up the grass in this area with a mattock (if not already

rototilled or sheet mulchedPlace the raised bed on topAdd more soil/compost

Use wood chips or other mulch in pathway to eliminate grass

If building on pavementUse taller height – at least 16”Can start with a base of wood chips

Raised Beds - Mounds

Raised Beds - MoundsRaised beds without woodLess expensive and easy to doProcess:

1. Mark out beds and paths with twine2. Dig soil out from paths and dump on beds

1. Soil in paths serves no purpose2. 6” – 12” deep (about shovel length)

3. Smooth top of beds with rake

Raised BedsSome raised bed tips:

Bed width should be 36” – 40”; length is up to you Width makes it easy to reach in to middle of bed

Pathways should be 1 ½“1 to 2’ wide Makes access easy

Mulch pathways with high carbon material Helps maintain bed integrity

Wood chips Sawdust Straw

Sowing Seeds and Transplanting

Sowing Seeds and TransplantingDirect Seeding

Sow in rows or broadcastBe sure to seed at appropriate timeGood for greens and root crops

SpinachOriental greensArugulaRadishCarrotsParsnipsBeets

Sowing Seeds and TransplantingDirect Seeding

Smooth soil surface with rakeTry to remove clumps if present – want smooth surface

Mark rows with tool of choiceSeeds should be planted at a depth

2 ½ times the width of the seedSpace seeds and rows according to packageCover seeds with soilTamp down soil to ensure contact between

soil and seed; (sprinkle with compost)Keep moist (do not soak) until germination

Sowing Seeds and TransplantingDirect Seeding

After germination – watch for weedsThin plants as needed to ensure space when mature

Thinned plants can be eaten or transplanted

Pros Cons

• Easy to do and quick• Reduces root disturbance• Can undersow into established crops

• Must wait for soil to warm up• Young seedlings vulnerable to pests

Sowing Seeds and TransplantingTransplanting

Starting plants in trays and transplanting into garden

Sow in trays just like outdoorsCan space plants closer in trays

Grow until true leaves well establishedTransplant outside when weather permits

Sowing Seeds and TransplantingTransplanting

Transplant soil mixStraight compost can be OKAdding perlite/vermiculite makes more porousCan also use sand, peat moss, garden soil

Easy Transplant Mix:2 parts well-screened compost1 part vermiculite or 1 part sandAdd peat to make lighterAdd granular organic fertilizer if desired

Sowing Seeds and TransplantingTransplanting

Grid planting or row planting

Pros Cons

• Get an early start on crops• Especially long season crops

• Tomatoes• Peppers

• Plants get head start on pests and weeds• Can plant in exact spot desired

• More work than direct seeding• Requires indoor growing space• Transplants are time sensitive

Once established crops need a few things:Water

Water according to plant needs and soil textureSandy Soil

Water more often, but for shorter periodsClay Soil

Water less often, but for longerWater in evenings or mornings

Less evaporation than at mid-dayOver-watering can be as bad as under-wateringHand water or sprinkler

Water spray should be gentle on soilDo not let water pool

Mulching (covering) the soil preserves water

Maintaining Crops

Once established crops need a few things:Nutrients

Compost is your main source of nutritionCompost tea can be made and sprayed on leavesLonger season crops need more nutrients

Side dress with compost throughout the seasonSpecific fertilizers for other nutrients

Rock phosphate – PhosphorusGreensand – PotassiumAlfalfa meal – NitrogenLime – pH, Calcium and Magnesium

Maintaining Crops

Once established crops need a few things:Weeding

A weed is an undesired (or misunderstood) garden plantWeeds compete with your crops

LightWater Nutrients

Best to remove weeds when they are very smallBut - leaving weeds until they are a bit bigger allows you to grow

your own organic matter!Pulled weeds can be left as a mulch or compostedDo not let weeds “go to seed”Some weeds are edible!

Maintaining Crops

Once established crops need a few things:Mulch

Mulch covers and protects the soilCreates vibrant bioligical activityReduces evaporation in the summerKeeps soil coolerMany types of mulch:

Leaves (ideally chopped up) – collect in winter and storeGrass clippings – great light mulch for freshly-seeded bedsStraw – long lasting mulchCompost – very versatile stuff this compostNewspaper – do not use the obituaries…it’s bad luck!

Maintaining Crops

Once established crops need a few things:Harvesting

Some crops can be harvested repeatedlyKaleChardParsleySummer squashSome Tomatoes

Others harvested just onceLettuceSpinachRoot crops

Do not let crops over mature – they will go to seed (bolt)

Maintaining Crops

Plants remove nutrients from the soil – these nutrients need to be replacedCompost does much of thisCover crops also contribute

Crops grown to enhance the soil –not to harvestProtect the soil in the winterAdd nitrogen to the soil

Legumes take N from the air and add it to the soilDone by bacteria that live on plant roots

Maintaining Soil Fertility

Add Compost to the soil:In the springWhen transplanting or sowingThrough the season around base of plants

Mulch the Soil:In summer to reduce evaporation and add fertilityIn winter to protect soil structureRemove mulch in spring to warm up soil

Maintaining Soil Fertility

The rapid biological decomposition of organic matterAll garden and household veggie “waste” can be

compostedThis compost can be returned to the soil

Requires five things:1. C:N Ratio (24:1) – equal parts browns and greens2. Moisture – as wet as a wrung out sponge3. Air – aerate compost with tool4. Surface Area – chop up material before adding5. Diverse materials

Composting

Composting

LettuceKaleChardParsleySquashTomatoes

Easy Crops to GrowBeetsParsnipsGarlicPeas and beansRaspberriesRhubarbStrawberries

But it’s most important to plant what you like to eat!

Establish Garden/Build Soil

Sow Seeds/Transplant Plants

Feed and Water Plants

Harvest Plants

Feed Soil with Compost

Growing a Garden

It all starts with the soil…treat it like a living organismSoil texture tells you how your soil acts

DrainageNutrient retention

Build soil by adding compost and other organic matterOM influences how soil actsImproves soil structure – aggregationAvoid woody materials in the soil

We want to energize the soil – make it activeAdd compost to soil throughout the seasonGet to know your tools – use what works best for you

Growing a Garden - Key Points

Use best method for you to establish garden from lawnDo not make beds to wide – maximum 40”Use a combination of direct seeding and transplantingGrow crops at the appropriate time of the yearGrow what you likePay close attention to your garden to learn from itTalk to neighbours and other gardenersThe best fertilizer is the gardener’s shadow!.Have fun!

Growing a Garden - Key Points