Frim issue 1

Fresh - Passion - Photography

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The Bull’s HeadA new look for a very old pub

Green Knight CountryLandscape of a medieval epic

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Many Waters, Many ToadsMigrations to a Monyash mere

FrimApril 2014 - Issue 1

Fresh - Passion - Photography

FrimFrim: Adjective - fresh with new grass growth, especially in the Spring. [As defined by F. Philip Holland in “Words of the White Peak”].

Frim is a new concept: An online magazine bringing you fresh angles on The Peak District not found elsewhere. Places to explore, delights to discover through the unique and highly personal insight of the magazine’s creators, both of whom know the region inside-out.

Each month, the aim is to shine a light on hidden wonders, or to interpret familiar landmarks in novel ways, through the power of photography combined with the written word. There may also be the occa-sional atmospheric soundtrack from nature to complete the experience.

Inspired to explore for yourselves, you can turn to the “Nuts & Bolts” page which will list all the practical information you need for getting to the places featured, along with links to relevant websites.

Or, you may just wish to sit back and enjoy the virtual feast that is “Frim”.

Please…browse.

Simon Corble & Steve Wake. April 2014.

“The brooks, all boiling, break over their banksWith waves of white water, wrecking the path,Obliterating, barring; he bridles his horse....”

“We rootle through rocks and bramble and briar,Seeking and sensing, sniffling - Ssh!The blood hounds have brought us, to the breathing …of the beast.”

Green Knight Country

Prior to its publication, what follows is a random montage of extracts from my adaptation of the poem, as spoken on stage, with corresponding images from

roundabout The Roaches, by Steve Wake and myself.

Lud’s Church is a magical, mysterious place. No one is even sure as to how it came by the name. A narrow chasm in the gritstone escarpment that forms the Staffordshire Roaches, it has associations with the occult, with political dissent and non-conformist worship. Hidden by oaks and birches, and smothered in mosses, it’s Northern mouth gapes high above the bubbling River Dane, near Gradbach.

“For every lock, a key,As every ill, a cure,”“Merlin, what can you see?”

Lud’s Church has long been cited as the inspiration for The Green Chapel in the anonymous medieval poem Sir Gawain and the Green Knight. In fact, if you read the poem carefully, The Green Chapel is clearly a barrow, a green burial mound, set in a grassy plot of land, right next to a stream, at the bottom of a dale; so the description does not fit. And, from the account of Sir Gawain’s journey, it has to be in Lancashire, or even The Lakes.

And yet…this IS Green Knight Country. The author, we think, lived in Cheshire or North Staffs, spoke and wrote in the local dia-lect, and when he wanted a landscape for his hero to venture through, his imagination clearly flew at once to the Peak District’s rugged borderland, frowning over the Cheshire Plain.

And there are plenty of genuine green burial mounds to choose from…on practically every hilltop, just to the East of here.Radically inspired by both the poem and the landscape, I wrote a play of the story using the same verse-form as the original. I used regional dialects and a few archaic words from the original poem, some of which still have echoes in place-names here-abouts: Chapel-en-le-Frith (“Chapel in the forest”); Wildboarclough: Oxlow Rake. It is a seasonal, Christmas drama – most of the story’s action takes place around the Winter Solstice; snow, ice, wind and rain are a constant battle for Sir Gawain and all living things.

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“Between a fen pool in that forest and a frowning crag,There; rugged the rocks and randomly fallen,We fare to the finding; folk following after…”

"Oh, full early, `fore dawn, mi folk were uprisen;We ate our soup hastily and having heard massWith bugles and bows, bent to the field;Then, by what little light glimmered on earth,Unclosed the kennel door and called forth the hounds!"

“The way is steep and stony and slithery too.Ay, It’s a rough old rake, all rocky and dank,And daylight’s so dim once you’re down in’t dale,Why, the sky’s but a slit in the cliffs overhead,”

“Seeds are salted on the soil, to sleep into spring,Through freezing frosts and fog-filled days,And in each husky heart, is held... a secret, Secure.”

“Deer from the dale darted for dreadTo hide in the heights ...Below we let slip such a sleeting of arrows;Each way through the wood winged a fresh flight.”

"Somewhile with worms he wars, somewhile with wolves,

Somewhile with woodwos that dwell in the crags. Both with bulls and bears and boars, otherwhile;

Giants huge, harry him off the high fells."

“Full fair is the field for the frost is clinging”“The bone, for the black crow, cast in a bough...”

"A forest, full deep. Oh fairly it is wild!High hills on each half; and holtwoods thereunder:

Hoar oaks, full huge, a hundred together,Hazels, and hawthorn in a tangle of trees..."

"Wild weathers of the world are waiting out there;Clouds casting keenly the cold to the earth,With near enough of a northerly the naked to perish.The snow snitters full snart; …'snot nice at all."

Words by:Simon Corblewww.corble.co.uk

Photos by: Steve Wake & Simon CorbleFacebook/wakesworldFlikr/SimonCorble

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The White Peak is a high limestone plateau. Water permeates and dissolves its way through the rock, finding little resistance. This southern half of the National Park should, by rights, be devoid of standing water; yet the last Ice Age left a valuable gift behind. Clay. The vast ice sheets brought pockets of clay to rest in surprising places, sometimes at over one thousand feet above sea level, well above the springs of the dales; clay is the antithesis of limestone, it holds water in every hollow.

This area is dotted with miniature meres, (please don’t call them “ponds”) meres which, for millennia, have provided a life-line to herdsmen, packhorse teams and wildlife. Without them, the village of Monyash would never have been established. Monyash once had five. The place-name itself is thought to derive from the Anglo-Saxon for “many” plus an ancient British word, (something like “aesc”), for “water”. Many waters. Today there is only one, Fere Mere. The others have become car parks, a school playing field…all prone to flooding. Yet the sole survivor, now an SSSI, continues to be a vital oasis for all sorts of creatures, including endangered Great Crested Newts. And toads.

Many Waters, Many ToadsT

On mild evenings in early Spring motorists are likely to encounter strange apparitions in the winding village lanes…figures clad in a glowing material; lights on their heads; vessels in their grasp as they bend and retrieve something from the pavement. These are the toad patrollers. Thousands of amphibians, including newts, frogs, but especially toads, converge on the village centre over two or three weeks of March and April to spawn, as they have for countless generations, in the waters of the mere. The toad patrol was set up in an attempt to give the beasties a fighting chance against the annual increase in road traffic,




It is simple, yet rewarding and strangely addictive work, picking up toads from the side of the road, collecting them in a bucket and transfer-ring them by relay to the mere. There are toad patrols throughout the county, but mostly it is a case of “helping a toad to cross the road”. In Monyash the village and its crossroads grew up around the meres, so that toads migrating from all directions, from up to a mile-and-a-half away, may have to cross two or three streets to reach the water; the toad-team is deployed over a wide area.

The males start to arrive first, in small numbers, and the volunteers are scrambled. Days later the first females appear; much larger than the males, they seem enormous. They can be as much as thirty years old. And they carry the spawn. A male may try to hitch a ride, like a diminutive jockey on a thoroughbred, but when she arrives at the mere the female will choose a mate of a size nearer to her own. Fertilisation takes place externally, in the water. Unlike lumpy frog spawn, that of toads is delivered in delicate ribbons, wrapping around plant stems. After a few days the females begin to head back to the fields; the males follow a week or so after, leaving the spawn to develop into tadpoles and then toadlets throughout the early summer.

None of the village streets are especially busy, but one of the problems is that the toads see them as dating arenas. In search of a clear view all around of approaching ladies and rival blokes, they make a beeline for the tarmac as soon as dusk descends, oblivious to the danger. During the day the toads seek refuge in the countless miles of drystone walling, typical of the White Peak, so that their mass emergence of an evening can mean a frantic time for patrollers as animals flop out of crevices at every turn. This can also be at the peak time for through-traffic on the roads.




There is a definite “rush hour” for the toads, also, after which things become easier for the patrollers; those with young children start to drift home. But not before all have been rewarded with a trip to the mere.

In the calm of a mild Spring night, there can be few more rewarding experiences. Woodsmoke from village chimneys hangs fragrant in the still air; a Daubenton’s Bat flies low over the silky water, snacking on insects; the soft clouds break to reveal a sliver moon and Orion, the constellation of the hunter, lording it over the sky. The only noise is the toy-like croaking of hundreds of male toads in the water, backed by the softer bass of the frogs, with the odd shrill call from a moorhen. It must have been like this when Stone Age people first settled here, around these precious “Many Waters”.

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It’s a tough decision, to close a popular village pub over the best part of a week, for the sake of refurbishment. That’s the brave step proprietor Sharon Barber took in late March in order to complete the revamp of a well-loved and ancient institution: The Bull’s Head, Monyash. And how does she feel now the place has reopened? “It feels like Christmas for me!” Her twinkling hazel eyes and broad smile say the same. Minutes later she is trotting across the village green to the school to run an after-hours cookery club for the youngsters. This is a public house as deeply involved in village life as is possible to find in the Peak District; it has always been this way.

Exactly how long an inn or public house has stood on this site is anyone’s guess. The village was granted a charter to hold a weekly market on Tuesdays way back in 1340 – the market cross from that time still stands on the green, right outside the Bull’s Head. To this day market towns and villages bring trade to public houses. Back then, traders might have needed a place to stay overnight, for themselves and their horses, in addition to a good meal and some beer. Further back still, in 1288 King Edward I established Barmote Courts throughout the land, in an attempt to regulate the lead mining indsutry. Monyash was made the centre of lead mining for the High Peak and the Barmote Court held its sessions at the Bull’s Head up until 1814. It could have been meeting in the pub right from its inception.

MonyashThe Bull’s Head

It is one of those “lost in the mists of time” origins. We do know that in 1579 the village had no less than five pubs, including The Bull’s Head, as five named persons, (the landlords and landladies) were hauled up before a court in Chapel-en-le-Frith for selling short measures. Something unthinkable today – The Bull’s Head is renowned for generosity in all portions; something that will not change, for all the new cookers and ex-tractor-fans in the kitchen. Earlier, I sampled Sharon’s whopping Lamb Shank Balti - a great, super-spicy twist on a local staple.

The buildings have clearly been constructed and rebuilt many times. Over the now blocked-up old entrance to the oldest part of the pub is the inscription 1619, with initials H.G. and E.G. These are thought to have been Humphrey and Elizabeth Goodwin, listed as freeholders in the parish in 1633. The present entrance to the pub preserves more ancient traces; 230 million year-old fossils, in flag stones quarried just a mile away.

Church St, Monyash - Bakewell - Derbyshire - DE45 1JH01629 812372

www.thebullsheadmonyash.co.uk

It is impressive that all of Sharon & Co.’s updates and refurbishments over the twenty-three years she has been in charge have not buried the pub’s history, but have emphasised those many layers of change in prosperity and fashion. The old settle that greets you as you walk in the door has not been thrown out, but re-upholstered; the even older stone lintel of the fireplace is still there, but now brought to life with funky pink wall-paper featuring frolicking cattle. Some of what looks old is in fact fairly recently installed; the tall, Victorian, cast-iron pillars, supporting ancient oak joists in the bar, were put in by Sharon some years ago, to support a sagging floor above. They work, on every level.

It has clearly been a family-and-team effort. Sharon’s father, Brent, is an architect and has been responsible for much of the planning; the inten-tion to detail is impressive – “How much of that oak panelling is old? Or is it brand new? Stripped?” None of this matters, it’s a seamless whole. Sharon is a great motivator, perhaps years of playing netball helps; “All of the staff have been involved in the work…and the decorator, Dean, has come up with some good ideas of his own”.

As we sit talking by a roaring log fire, the delivery man from Kelham Island Brewery walks in with a chitty to sign – “No, Becky can deal with that.” She waves him away with a cheery smile.

I am enjoying my half of “Easy Rider” – there is always a fine selection of well-kept local ales on offer here and plenty of places to enjoy them, from the cosy snug and main bar, to the formal dining rooms, the pool room and, of course, the cele-brated garden.

It is a bit of an institution for those in the know with young families; the sheltered garden, (with seating for forty drinkers/diners) at the rear, is adjoined by the fantastic village play-park. Attractions include a zip-wire on which Sharon’s three children are, naturally, experts, performing stunts never imagined by the designers.

The busiest times for the pub and play park are through the late Spring and Summer, with the Wells week and May market bringing a special focus; but any weekend is likely to find the place buzz-ing. Convoys of motocyclists, cyclists and vintage car enthusiasts all make regular “pilgrimages” to Monyash, while this is also the cen-tre of a great network of walks, including many around Lathkill Dale which starts on the edge of the village.




Fossils by the front door

Back by the fire I look up at a painting of two bullocks, by local artist Lynne Wilkinson, “She also painted the sign outside, didn’t she?” “Yes, but this painting was where it all started”. Sharon had splashed out on the painting as a bull-themed adornment for the bar. When Lynne later heard who had bought it, she hurried to Monyash with a proposal: “You can have as many of my paintings as you want on your walls, provided they can all have price tags,” (or words to that effect).

The Bull’s Head is now a wonderful gallery for Lynne’s work, all very well hung and beautifully lit; her highly textured style of oil and acryllic is perfect for her animal subjects, one of which includes Milo, Sharon’s hairy terrier who is now rolling on the hearth rug, yawning and looking lovingly up at Sharon. This truly is the pub with everything, right down to the dog.

Nuts and BoltsGreen Knight Country

The Roaches escarpment is best accessed from the village of Upper Hulme, off the A53 between Buxton and Leek. See White Peak OS Outdoor Leisure map grid ref: 005622 (car park for The Roaches). There are frequent bus services between Leek and Buxton.

To find Lud’s Church, park at the car park near Gradbach. (map as above) grid ref: 998664.Follow footpaths along the River Dane and up into Gradbach woods…Good luck!

A personal or group day-long walking tour of the area around Lud’s Church and the Roaches can arranged with Simon as your guide; contact Judy via [email protected]

Accommodation near Lud’s ChurchCurlew Croft, QuarnfordContact Steve via [email protected]

The play of Sir Gawain and The Green Knight received its first professional performance from Midsommer Actors’ Company at Hardcastle Crags, West Yorkshire, in June 1992, after which it went on an extensive tour. Images of this open-air, promenade production can be seen at flickr.com/photos/midsommer

The heavily-revised seasonal version had a trial run with Cardboard Menagerie at the O’Reilly Theatre Oxford in February of this year. It was greeted with great enthusiasm and praise from both scholars and the general public. It is now seeking a professional production in a North West theatre. See www.corble.co.uk

The play will be published shortly. For all enquiries regarding performance rights, please contact Simon directly: email: [email protected].

Many Waters, Many Toads

The annual toad migration in Monyash takes place at the end of March / beginning of April. If you would like to join the toad patrol as a volunteer, if only for one evening, then please contact Simon and Judy Corble on 01629 813083 or email: [email protected] to be put on the emailing list for next year’s event. You will need to come prepared with hi-viz clothing, a good torch and a bucket; there is also a risk assessment to read and a “Froglife” insurance form to sign.

The charity, Froglife www.froglife.org has details of other toad migration sites, throughout the U.K.

The village of Monyash is on the B5055, off the A515 which runs between Buxton and Ashbourne. The nearest town is Bakewell, on the A6. Postcode for the centre of the village is DE45 1JH. There is a bus service from Bakewell several times a day, the 177 run by Hulleys www.hulleys-of-baslow.co.uk.

The Bull’s Head

The Bull’s Head welcomes walkers, dogs and is very family friendly. It is open from midday to 3pm during the week (all day at weekends and during summer holidays) and from 5.30 in the evening until late.

www.thebullsheadmonyash.co.ukChurch St, Monyash - Bakewell - Derbyshire - DE45 1JH

01629 812372

Who are We?Simon Corble www.corble.co.uk

I am a playwright and a theatre director – or, as I like to put it, a Creator of Dramatic Works. My most celebrated creation, in collaboration with North Country Theatre’s Nobby Dimon, is the stage version of The 39 Steps, still running in London’s West End, winning an Olivier Award for Best New Comedy 2007. Perhaps I am most proud of my adaptation of The Hound of the Baskervilles which been produced many times and is now published by MX Publishing. www. mxpublishing.co.uk.

It is also available on Amazon: amazon.co.uk/Hound-Baskervilles-Sherlock-Holmes-Play.

Having a deep interest in all things natural and rural, I have received a number of commissions to write drama on environmental themes, including SWARD! – the story of a meadow, for Blaize as well as a number of imaginative audio trails for the Peak District National Park and The Na-tional Trust. Sample Win Hill Voices at:- moorsforthefuture.org.uk

Throughout the 1990’s with my company, Midsommer, I pioneered open-air promenade theatre in atmospheric settings, right across the North of England, including Hilbre Island, in the Dee estuary and Brimham Rocks, North Yorkshire. I won a Manchester Evening News Theatre

Award in 1997 for my work in this field. You can view a photographic archive of these plays at: www.flickr.com/photos/midsommer

I have had an interest in photography ever since my teenage years when I joined the photography club at Lymm Grammar School, Cheshire. I have been exploring the Peak District, mostly on foot, since those days also, and took the life-enhancing decision to move into a Peak village with my wife and family in 2007. My photos of the Peak District and beyond can be viewed at www.flickr.com/photos/corble, where I go under the name Tragopodaros – Greek for “goat-footed-one”. I have a good working knowledge of Greek and I undertake translation work into English.

Originally from Sheffield, we moved to the Peak DIstrict to get away from the busy city life and this is when my passion for photography grew and grew. Photography and the Peak DIstrict are an ideal mix; I am addicted to exploring new places, looking for that next great shot.

We recently moved from Monyash to Quarnford and although I loved Monyash and met some wonderful people there, (Simon being one) moving to an even more rural setting has given me renewed energy to take my photography even further and explore more.

I have, with my business partner, for the last several years run a busy website for the Peak Dis-trict; www.peakdistrictonline.co.uk. This is still a big part of my business life, but it also means that I could use my photography to help promote the Peak District National Park.

Photography has grown from my passion to my work. I have been lucky that with my business-es; I have been able to involve and evlove my photography.

My Facebook Page is a place where I share my daily photos and I am pleased that it has had a great response; I have a great set of people who like to see my photos and comment, so why not come and take a look www.facebook.com/wakesworld

We are looking to convert an empty barn into a studio where I can take on more photography work and we are converting part of the farmhouse into holiday accommodation, so you can come and see where I get my inspiration from.

Steve Wake www.facebook.com/wakesworld

Frim issue 1

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