FRANCHISE OWNERS GUIDE TO FLOOR CARENotice: The methods contained in this manual do not necessarily include all responsibilities for this assignment and/or classification.

This analysis, the processes, and time values used, and all report formats and forms used, are the proprietary properties and trade secrets of ANAGO CLEANING SYSTEMS, INC. Except as provided by licensing agreement, or contract, it shall not be duplicated, used or disclosed for any purpose or reason, in whole or in part, without the express written permission of:

ANAGO CLEANING SYSTEMS, INC.

1100 Park Central Blvd., Suite 1200Pompano Beach, Florida 33064800.213.5857TABLE OF CONTENTS1Floor Care Safety

31.1Management Systems

31.2Contamination Control

71.3Hazard Removal

8Floor Care Resilient

2.1Resilient General Information892.2Common Resilient Floor Finish Problems

102.3Dust Mop Floor

112.4Damp Mop Floor

132.5Spot Mop Traffic Area

142.6Wet Mop Floor

152.7Spray Buff Floor

172.eightStrip Floor Finish

192.9Finish Application Procedures

192.10Scrub and Recoat

212.11Refinish Four-Coats (Deep Strip)

242.12Apply Floor Finish

252.13Machine Scrub Rotary Machine

26Floor Care Carpet

263.1General Information

283.2Routine Cleaning

293.3Recovery Cleaning

293.4Common Carpet Problems

313.5Vacuuming Carpet

323.6Spot Clean Carpet

333.7Bonnet Buff Carpet

343.eightExtract Carpet

36Floor Care Terrazzo & Finished Aggregate

364.1General Information

374.2Dust Mop Floor

394.3Damp Mop Floor

40Floor Care Masonry

405.1General Information

405.2Clay Tiles and Brick

415.3Stone, Marble, and Travertine

425.4Damp Mop Floor

425.5Sweep Floor

435.6Floor Drain Care

44Floor Care Stairs

446.1Sweep Steps

446.2Damp Mop Steps

As a Franchise owner you will sooner or later be faced with an account that has floor care contained within the cleaning specifications. You must train your employees to perform all aspects of this type of work. This is one area where the result of the work is immediate and assessable. If the work is judged satisfactory by the client, you will then be in line with the contract specifications and will avoid the expense of redoing or touching up subpar areas. If the work is not judged satisfactory, you will most often have to perform redo work at no cost to the client. This will, in turn, double your labor cost and take time away from new, income-producing work.The Principal Reasons for Floor Cleaning are:1. To prevent injuries due to tripping or falling. Slip and fall accidents on level floors are a major cause of accidental injury or death, and poor cleaning practices are a major cause of such accidents.2. To improve the appearance of the floor.

3. To remove stains, scuff marks, ground-in dirt, and litter.4. To remove grit and sand, which scratch and wear down the surface of the floor.

5. To remove allergens, particularly dust and loose dirt.

6. To prevent wear to the surface by using a floor finish or protective sealant.

7. To maintain a sanitary environment, for example, in kitchens.8. To maintain optimum traction, for example, on dance floors.Floor Care Safety

Slip and fall accidents are the most common cause of major injuries in the workplace. Around 90% of these involve broken bones. Costs to the industry are substantial and there is an incalculable human cost to those injured. Inadequate floor cleaning is a significant cause of slip and fall accidents. Legal actions following such injuries can be extremely damaging and costly to business, especially where the public is involved. Insurance only covers a small part of this cost. Effective solutions are often simple, inexpensive and can lead to other benefits.The most effective approach is to ensure that slip and fall hazards are designed out of a building. Unfortunately, very few, if any, builders consult with the cleaners during the initial build out or remodeling. Such a consultation would provide valuable information on the suitability of proposed flooring types and storage facilities for cleaning equipment. Ultimately, the business is left with what the builders design and aesthetics usually win out over functionality and safety.Floor Cleaning is a Key in Controlling Many Slip and Fall AccidentsFloor surface contamination, such as water, oil, and dust, is often a cause of accidents. Regular cleaning to remove contamination can reduce such accidents. Cleaning can also, however, present slip and fall hazards to those entering the area being serviced, including your own employees. Examples of possible risks to your employees include smooth floors left damp by mopping, which are likely to be extremely slippery, and trip hazards created by trailing cords from vacuums or buffers. Reported major accident figured show cleaning is high risk for slip and fall accidents.

When cleaning is carried out effectively, it can make the difference between a floor being an unacceptably high risk or an acceptably low risk.

Slip and Fall AccidentsAlmost all slips happen when floors are wet or dirty, for example, contaminated with water, oil, food debris, dust, etc. If the floor has a smooth surface (e.g., standard vinyl, glazed ceramic tiles, varnished wood and some metal floors are all often very smooth), even a tiny amount of contamination can present a real slip problem. Falls generally take place on damaged, uneven, and badly laid floors, or because obstacles have been left where people do not expect to find them.

Preventing Slip and Fall Accidents

Control Measures1. Management systems2. Contamination control, which involves preventing contamination, choosing the right cleaning method, and making sure cleaning does not introduce an additional slip risk3. Hazards removalAll three are needed to prevent slip and fall accidents.1.1 Management SystemsCleaning, as with other areas of health and safety, requires a good management system to help you identify problem areas, make decisions, act on your decisions, and check that the steps have been effective.A good system should involve:

Planning to make sure the correct cleaning regimen is chosen for the type of floor; this should take into account how the floor is used, by whom (for example, some people, such as the visually impaired or the elderly, run a higher risk of accident), when the floor is used and what, if any, contaminants are present. Consideration for how spillages and the like will be handled between scheduled whole floor cleanings. Organizing your work and consulting with your employees to make sure the planning stage is implemented.

Control to ensure that working practices and processes are being carried out properly, for example, that access is prevented to wet smooth floors.

Monitoring and reviewing to identify any improvements that can be made to the system.Effective CommunicationEffective communication involves:

Ensuring that you have on hand supplies that you need.

Obtaining information from flooring suppliers regarding floors and how to effectively clean them.

Obtaining information from equipment and chemical suppliers regarding the suitability of their products for the surfaces they will be used on.

Ensuring that you are providing clients with acceptable cleaning by trained employees who are well-versed on their duties and the specifics of each job. A lack of understanding on the part of the employee can lead to shortcuts that rarely work; employees should additionally be informed of any changes. Contracts should be renewed if the work environment changes.Effective training and supervision is essential to make sure the standard of cleaning is met. Training should match the individual, the environment and equipment used. If any of these factors change, training should be reviewed. Employees should be encouraged to report any difficulties in carrying out their work.1.2 Contamination ControlPeople rarely slip on a clean, dry floor. There is contamination involved in almost all slip and fall accidents. It can be introduced by the environment, work activity, or by the cleaning activity itself.Preventing Contamination

The best method is to prevent contamination of the dry floor. Spot cleaning is a useful method to clean up spills and the like as they happen, especially between scheduled floor maintenance. At entrances, enclosed holders for wet umbrellas and effective, well-maintained walk-off mats can not only help keep the floor dry, but also remove much of the dirt, tar, and grease from shoes before they reach the floor.Choosing the Right Cleaning MethodTo effectively remove a contaminant, the correct cleaning regimen needs to be chosen. Consider the factors below when choosing the cleaning technique.

Detergent

Detergent is essential if there is any greasy or oily contamination on the floor. Water alone, whether it is cold or warm, is not effective in removing this kind of contamination. The concentration of detergent is critical to its effectiveness; follow the manufacturers instructions, because too strong a solution can be as ineffective as too weak. Monitoring how much is used can be a useful check. Dosing systems can eliminate error. The detergent should be left on the floor for enough time to allow effective removal of grease or oil before rinsing. A useful comparison is washing-up. Heavily soiled pots and pans require soak time in the detergent. Scouring or brushing can increase the effectiveness of detergent.Spot Cleaning

Use a paper towel or rag to remove small areas of water-based contamination from the floor. This is a cheap and effective method of removing water-based spills. It avoids spreading the contamination or increasing the slip risk by mopping a large area. Spot cleaning can be used between scheduled whole-floor cleaning to control contamination. For greasy spills, detergent will be required.Mopping

Mopping is usually only effective on smoother floors because it only skims the surface of the floor, regardless of the effort used. Even a well-wrung mop will leave a thin film of water which is enough to create a slip risk on a smooth floor. Subsequent use of a completely dry mop will reduce the drying time but will not eliminate the slip risk. Where smooth floors are mopped, take care to make sure the floor is left to dry completely before pedestrians are allowed access. Consider how dirt is removed from the floor and where it goes. For example, use a separate dirty water bucket for wringing the mop out to increase the dirt removal. Greasy floors will require contact time with the detergent solution; use the wet mopping technique where the detergent is put down in one stage and mopped up after a soak time in a second stage.

Push Broom

Using a push broom on a smooth floor may be adequate to remove dry contaminants. Airborne dust can be created using this technique, so this technique should not be used where there are health risks associated with dust or other fine lightweight materials.

Dust Mop

A dust mop can be used on any smooth surface floor to remove loose dirt and dust. This type of mop will not remove scuff marks or ground-in dirt. Dust mops are most always used on wood floors.

Hose/Power Washer

With sufficient power, hose or power washer can be used to remove dusty or doughy contaminants. The floor will be left wet, so it should be rough enough not to create a slip risk with the water left behind. Suitable drainage will be required. This is normally used in outdoor areas, not inside buildings. (Exceptions are heavy manufacturing areas or auto repair bays). For greasy contamination, a detergent will be required. Squeegee

A squeegee can be effective in removing excess water after cleaning to reduce drying time. The floor will not be left completely dry and will still present a risk. If a floor is rough enough to be left wet, the volume of water is not important and a squeegee is unnecessary. Be aware that where oily or greasy contamination is present, the squeegee can have the effect of spreading a thin layer of contamination over a wider area or forcing it into the surface. This may result in a floor that is more difficult to clean.

Wet /Dry Vacuum

A wet/dry vacuum is effective at cleaning up liquid spills. This is more effective on smooth floors which can be left completely dry.Dry Vacuum (Includes Uprights Canisters and Back Packs)Dry vacuums are effective at cleaning up dry/dusty contaminants; they are also effective on rougher floors. This method avoids the creation of airborne dust. Dust creates a health risk; make sure the filter is replaced when needed.Auto ScrubberAn auto scrubber can be an effective way to clean most kinds of flooring. Different designs of auto scrubbers lend themselves to different situations. The squeegee needs to be wide enough to recover all the water put down by the machine. Single-disc machines tend to throw water out to one side, and may require an asymmetric squeegee to recover this. The squeegee needs to be well maintained to ensure there is no excess water left behind which may leave a smooth floor dangerously wet. On very rough or profiled surfaces, the squeegee may not be flexible enough to allow adequate removal of water from the surface. Greasy floors require detergent solutions. The operator should be trained in the correct use of the machine, for example, applying appropriate levels of water and chemical for the floor surface to reduce leaking and water trails.A smooth, wet floor creates an accident risk. People often slip or fall on floors that have been left wet after cleaning. Mopping is one of the main causes of floors being left wet. However, other cleaning methods can also leave the floor wet, such as a poorly maintained squeegee on an auto scrubber.Where the Current Cleaning Methods Result in a Smooth Floor Being Left Wet After Cleaning You Should:Consider alternative cleaning methods that leave the floor dry; if alternative cleaning methods are not going to work in a given situation, you need to ensure the floor is left to dry completely before traffic resumes.To restrict pedestrian access to drying floors, the following methods are available. Those at the top of the list are considered to be more effective than those at the bottom. A combination of different techniques may be required to make sure methods of preventing access during drying are effective.1. Clean after regular business hours whenever possible. If possible, physically exclude traffic access from wet areas, for example, using physical barriers or locking off an area while the floor is wet. Provide information on alternative routes. The exclusion should be removed once the floor is dry so it continues to be effective.2. Clean in sections, so there is a dry path through the area.

3. Use warning signs. Consider using wet floor signs and the like carefully, because they only warn of the hazard. Provide information on alternative routes.

Warning signs can be an effective means of informing people of a spill before it can be cleaned up, especially if the spill is visible. This is an indication that the sign is being properly used. It is critical that the sign is removed once the area is safe.

Stairs are a particularly hazardous part of the building and become even more so when being cleaned. The potential for an accident applies to both the cleaner and the stair user. During the course of their work, employees may be exposed to injury risks. Controls should ensure risks are minimized, such as through the cleaning methods used and the sequence in which cleaning is undertaken. Slip-resistant footwear can also help reduce risk to the employees themselves.1.3 Hazard RemovalObstructions and objects left lying around can easily go unnoticed and cause an accident. These causes are frequently overlooked, but generally easy to remedy. Several potential hazards associated with cleaning and possible control measures to reduce the risk to employees and others are given below.Cables and Leads

Cables and leads from cleaning equipment such as auto scrubbers, buffers, and vacuum cleaners. The use of battery-operated equipment avoids trailing cables.When possible, cleaning should be undertaken after normal working hours to reduce the likelihood of people tripping over equipment and cables. If cleaning has to be carried out when there are people in the vicinity, ensure staff and others are made aware that cleaning is in progress, for example, by using effective signs or barriers. Where the use of a cable is unavoidable, minimize the operating length (for example, by using a closer electrical outlet), increase its visibility, and cover it or move it out of the way of potential traffic by placing the cable next to the base board when cleaning hallways or stairs. Disconnect and immediately return equipment to storage after use.

Trash

Trash can consist of discarded boxes, waste materials, bin bags. Safely remove and dispose of any waste items that may cause a trip hazard. Avoid temporary accident hazards by not leaving unattended trash in walkways.Uneven Floors

Uneven floors can include curling walk-off mats, peeling or missing carpet tiles, holes, or changes in level. Employees and supervisors should report any flooring defects or unmarked changes in level to the facilitys manager or by using the Communications Log.Lighting

Poor lighting can increase risk, as obstacles may not be clearly visible. Using the Communications Log is the best method to report areas where the light is poor or bulbs are missing or blown.Housekeeping

The Communications Log is the best method to report spillages of leaking machinery, vending machines, and other risks. Make sure cleaning equipment is not left unattended and is safely stored when not in use.Floor Care Resilient2.1 Resilient General InformationDescription of Resilient FloorsWhat are "resilient" floors? We have used this as a catch-all term to describe any floor made of rubber, asphalt, vinyl tile, or linoleum. In other words, just about all floors that are not made of wood or masonry and are not carpeted. These floors are capable of withstanding shock without permanent deformation.

Vinyl Tile Floor Make-Up (VCT)

There are many kinds of vinyl tile. All are made with vinyl resins that are very tough firm but flexible. They give excellent wear; heavy loads won't mark them and they can't be hurt with mineral solvents, oils, grease, alkalines, or acids. They are decay- and mildew-proof; most any type of water based finish or cleaner can be used on them.

Conditions and Materials to Avoid1. Do not use solvent floor polishes.

2. Avoid abrasive cleaners.

3. Keep floor well-swept and free of grit and sand.

Rubber Floor Tile Make-Up

There is no more "real" rubber tile. There is now man-made rubber, which consists chiefly of synthetic rubber, fillers and mineral pigments. This can vary widely in form and properties, is available in tiles and sheets, and comes in many degrees of hardness and flexibility. All contain rubber, hence should be treated similarly. Rubber floors are non-porous and resist warping and buckling. They are resistant to acids, mild alkalies, and many stains. They remain flexible and resilient over wide temperature ranges.

Conditions and Materials to Avoid1. Do not use coarse steel wool.

2. Avoid rubber poisons, such as manganese and copper compounds.

3. The surface can be softened and colors will bleed if it comes in contact with petroleum solvents: turpentine, grease, oils, and carbon tetrachloride.

4. Never use sweeping compounds on rubber tile floors that have not been protected with a coat of finish.

5. Extremely heavy objects can mark and damage these floors.

Linoleum Floor Make-Up

Linoleum is made from oxidized linseed oil or a combination of drying oils, wood flour and/or ground cork, resins, and pigment. All are mixed together, rolled out, and compressed onto an asphalt saturated felt, burlap, or other backing. Heat is applied to the mixture during compression which fuses and sets the oil and resins to form strong binding agents. It is slowly heat-cured to form the finished product. Linoleum is a thermoset material: more resistant to temperature changes and indentation than some other resilient flooring. It is somewhat porous.

Conditions and Materials to Avoid1. Avoid heavy furniture loads.

2. Moisture, when absorbed, softens this material. (Avoid too-frequent cleaning; allow floor to dry completely before opening to traffic.)

3. Do not use alkaline solutions, they will attack the binder.

4. Avoid using scouring powders; they will damage surface when floor is wet.

2.2 Common Resilient Floor Finish ProblemsIf you are not happy with the finish of a resilient floor, then the finish operation has probably been carried out incorrectly. Here are a number of conditions which may occur. They can usually be solved by re-scrubbing, re-stripping, and re-finishing using correct procedure.

New resilient floors should not be wet mopped until the cement holding the tiles in place has set. Some types of cement may require up to 2 weeks to set. In the interim, use treated mops or damp mopping only.

Alkaline salts in solution are absorbed into porous floors during cleaning. As they dry, they form crystals which expand, cause swelling, and finally damage the material. The best protection against this is sealing.

Yellowing

Yellowing is often caused by repeated application of floor finish before removing old layers.

Solution: Completely strip the floor and re-finish. Avoid putting repeated coats of finish on top of each other.

Sticky Floors

Sticky floors are often caused by putting on too much finish or putting finish over an oily floor. It could also be caused by poor rinsing prior to application of finish or if too much humidity was in the air at the time of application.

Solution: Start over, watching amount of finish being applied and being sure floor is properly rinsed and cleaned prior to application.

Water Spotting

Water spotting can also can be caused by poor rinsing before finish is applied or when cleaning agents were so strong they damaged the finish.

Solution: Re-strip floor. After a thorough rinsing and cleaning, re-finish.No Shine

Poor gloss can be caused by a dirty applicator or because the floor was not completely dry before the finish was applied. Also, humidity could be a problem or floors may be so old and worn that they can no longer achieve a brilliant shine.Solution: Re-strip and re-finish floors; this time be sure a clean applicator is used and the floor is completely dry before applying finish.2.3 Dust Mop FloorDefinition and PurposeDust mopping is floor dusting. It is used to clean dust, light soil, and light litter from smooth, finished floor surfaces. It will not remove heavy soil, spills, or stains. Dust mopping is done to improve the appearance of floors, to prepare floors for deeper cleaning procedures, and to lengthen the time between more extensive cleaning procedures. Dust mopping does a better job than push broom sweeping which scatters dirt. It is best done after furniture dusting, which may cause dirt and dust to settle on the floor. Removing the dust and grit also preserves the floor finish.

Equipment and Materials1. Floor dust mop: Small mop for congested areas, large mop for open areas2. Putty knife3. Lobby broom4. Dust pan5. Waste containerTechniqueThere are chemical spray applications that can be applied to dust mop heads. If you use these sprays, allow them to dry 24 hours BEFORE using.

1. Move furniture only if necessary.

2. Use lobby broom for hard to get places, like corners.

3. Sweep dust and litter into an open area where the dust mop can pick it up. Flute the mop before you start. Shake gently so all strands are spread.

4. Rest the handle of the dust mop in your right palm, thumb on top. Put your left hand an easy distance below your right, with your fingers gently closed to steady and guide the mop. (Switch hands for "lefties").

5. Start floor dusting at the far end of the room and work toward the door, dusting with an "S" motion.

6. Hold the mop at an angle and move forward with a swinging back and forth, covering about an eight' path. At the end of each, change the mop heads direction by twisting the handle to keep same edge in front. Always move toward the leading edge.

7. Avoid lifting the mop and never tap or shake the mop on the floor to free excess dirt. That will scatter more dirt.

8. Start at the walls and move litter and dirt into the aisles of return path. Overlap strokes to prevent dust lines and missed dirt.

9. Check floor for gum or other sticking matter and use putty knife to remove.

10. Mop under furniture using a circular stroke to keep the edge of the mop forward. Twist the mop handle slightly; this will rotate the mop head to keep the leading edge forward.11. Use a one handed mopping motion in obstructed areas, such as under desks (always move the chair to clean underneath a desk). Be sure to mop close to the legs of equipment.

12. Make small piles of dust in the return path. Large piles spill out over the sides of the mop on the return sweep.

13. Sweep up dust piles with lobby broom and dust pan. Carefully empty dust pan into waste container to prevent scattering.

14. Clean dust mop by pulling dust and dirt into waste container by hand. Do not shake.

15. Return any moved furniture.

16. Return tools to storage area ready for use.

17. Replace mop head as needed.

Safety Precautions

1. Keep the dust pan and all equipment out of traffic areas where people might trip on them.

2. Do not leave piles of dirt or litter beside a room door or in a traffic lane where people will come upon them unexpectedly. Pick up piles promptly.

2.4 Damp Mop FloorDefinition and PurposeDamp mopping is the removing of light soil from a floor by the smooth stroke of the mop head and clear water or a solution that needs no rinsing. Damp mopping is done to remove dirt that dust mopping cannot handle and does not require wet mopping. Damp mopping requires no rinsing and therefore demands less time and energy.

Equipment and Materials1. Bucket2. Mop wringer3. Cotton or rayon mop4. Putty knife5. Dust mop6. Lobby broom, dust pan7. Wet floor signs8. Mild cleaning solution9. Doodle bug and 3M padPreparation1. Mix rinse-free solution. This is a specific type of cleaner.

Technique1. Take all equipment and supplies to area.

2. Move any light furniture (e.g., chairs).3. Scrape up sticky dirt or materials with putty knife. Do not gouge floor.

4. Use 3M pad with doodle bug to loosen black heel or scuff marks.

5. Dust mop the floor. Follow procedure listed under dust mopping. Skipping this step will make the mopping more difficult because the cleaning water will get dirty more quickly and need to be changed more often.6. Damp mopping is done in the same way as wet mopping, except the rinsing operation is not necessary because only a mild, rinse-free cleaning solution or clear water is used. Use the same floor preparation, stroke, and cleaning pattern. Except each time the mop is processed, it is wrung out until just damp, not fully wet.

7. Hold the mop with the left hand and operate the press with the right hand, using the flat open palm.

8. Start at the end area farthest from your exit point.

9. Mop corners and nooks or side areas first, working in towards a center aisle or path that will be mopped down on the way out.

10. Always begin at the baseboard with your stroke. Dirt builds up quickly and easily there. Keep your feet shoulder distance apart and stroke an area about three times that wide. The stroke is too large if the strands flick and spread dirty water on walls, cleaned floor, or equipment.

11. Mop with a side to side "figure eight" stroke facing the area just mopped, moving backwards. Overlap strokes over the same area to work in the solution. Shifting body weight with the stroke helps maintain a rhythm in swinging the mop.

12. Use both sides of the mop. Lay the mop over carefully. Lifting the mop and flapping it down will scatter water on walls or cleaned floor.

13. When mop seems to be full of dirt and out of cleaning solution, rinse the mop in the cleaning solution, press out until damp, and continue mopping. When the cleaning solution becomes noticeably dirty, CHANGE IT! 14. Return tools to storage area. Rinse out mop heads thoroughly and wring.

15. Rinse out buckets and wringers. Dry the equipment, then store. NEVER leave a mop standing in a bucket with water.2.5 Spot Mop Traffic AreaDefinition and PurposeSpot mopping is the removing of light soil or spills from soiled traffic areas of a floor by the smooth stroke of the mop head and clear water or a cleaning solution. Spot mopping is done to remove dirt when dust mopping is not enough and complete damp or wet mopping is too much.Equipment and Materials1. Bucket2. Mop wringer3. Cotton or rayon mop4. Putty knife5. Mild cleaning solution (advertised as rinse-free)Preparation1. Mix cleaning solution in bucket; pour water first, then cleaning product.

Technique2. Take all equipment and supplies to area.

3. Walk the area to be spot mopped. If there are any dirty spots on the floor surface (e.g., coffee or soda spills, dirt or mud tracks, etc.), rub mop over spot until spot is removed.

4. When mop becomes dirty, rinse and wring until damp.

5. Spot mopping is done in the same way as damp mopping except the rinsing operation is not necessary because only a mild cleaning solution or clear water is used. Use the same floor preparation, stroke and cleaning pattern. Each time the mop is processed, it is wrung out until just damp, not fully wet. Be careful not to over-wet the floor.

6. Collect equipment and return to supply area, then clean equipment. NEVER leave a mop standing in a bucket with water.Safety Precautions

1. A damp floor is slippery. If large areas are being done where people may be walking, use wet floor warning signs. Keep in mind that posting wet floor or cautionary signs will not relieve you of responsibility should someone fall as a result of walking on a wet or damp floor. It is recommended that whenever possible, wait until the facility is closed or a minimum of traffic is present around the area to be mopped.2.6 Wet Mop FloorDefinition and PurposeWet mopping is the removal of a medium dirt film from a floor by the chemical action of a cleaning solution and the physical action of the mop being rubbed back and forth over the floor. Wet mopping is done to improve the appearance of the floor and for longer protection. Rinsing is of great importance in the process to thoroughly remove loosened dirt and to remove the cleaning agents, some of which can damage floors if they remain on the surface.

Equipment1. 2 Buckets2. 2 Wringers3. 2 Cotton mops4. Dust mop5. Dust pan6. Putty knife7. Doodle bug and 3M pad8. Cleaning solution9. Wet floor signs10. Lobby broomPreparation1. Mix cleaning solution. Follow manufacturer's directions. Too strong a solution leaves a film that gathers dirt and leaves the floor more soiled than clean.

2. Be sure mop bucket and wringer are clean and the proper size before adding solution.

Technique1. Take tools and supplies to work area. Set out wet floor signs.

2. Move any light furniture (chairs, etc.) or light-weight obstructions.

3. Dust mop the floor. Follow procedure listed under dust mopping. Skipping this step will make the mopping more difficult because the cleaning water will get dirty more quickly and need to be changed more often.

4. Scrape up sticky dirt with putty knife. Do not gouge floor.

5. Use abrasive pad to loosen black heel or scuff marks.

6. Dip clean mop into cleaning solution bucket. Wring slightly to remove excess water and prevent dripping.

7. Hold the mop with the left hand and operate the press with the right hand, using the flat, open palm.

8. Do not flood floor. Heavy water flooding means extra work in water pick-up.

9. Start at the end area furthest from your exit point.

10. Mop corners and nooks or side areas first, working in towards the center aisle or path that will be mopped down on the way out.

11. Always begin at the baseboard with your stroke. Dirt builds up quickly and easily there. Keep your feet shoulder distance apart and stroke an area about three times that wide. The stroke is too large if the strands flick and spread dirty water on walls, cleaned floor, or equipment.

12. Mop with a side-to-side, figure eight stroke facing the area just mopped, moving backwards. Overlap strokes over the same area to work in the solution. Shifting body weight with the stroke helps maintain a rhythm and swing with the mop.

13. Use both sides of the mop. Lay the mop over carefully. Lifting the mop and flapping it down will scatter water on walls.

14. When mop seems to be full of dirt and out of cleaning solution, rinse the mop in the cleaning solution, press out until damp, then continue mopping. Change solution when needed. To continue mopping when the solution is very dirty only makes the floor dirty.15. Repeat solution mopping until entire area is completed.

16. Rinse entire area using a clean mop and a bucket of fresh clean water.

17. Follow the same steps in rinsing as in mopping with solution.

18. Use the bucket of water to clean off mop between applications. Follow the same path working backward to exit.

19. Do not flood floor. Check the floor. It should have no streaks, splash marks, or filmy look.

20. A wet vacuum may be used to pick up large quantities of liquid from floors but this should be avoided in routine, small-area wet mopping because of the additional equipment needed.

21. Return tools to storage area. Rinse out mop heads and wring. Empty wet vacuum and dry. Rinse out buckets and wringers. NEVER leave a mop standing in a bucket with water.Safety Precautions

1. Always use wet floor signs. Wet floors are slippery!

2. Never mix different chemicals together. The fumes could be poisonous. Also, the chemicals might work against each other, not cleaning the floor as well.

3. Be sure the bucket assembly, the wringer, and mop head correspond in size. A mop that is too large for the press will not wring evenly, leaving some areas too wet, and others too dry. A mop that is too small can result in bruised knuckles when the press is operated.

4. Walk cautiously on a wet floor; avoid it if you can because doing so spoils the work and can result in serious injury due to a slip and fall.5. Use the palm of the hand to operate the press. Fingers can be cut or bruised if they are gripping the press and the handle gives too far or the press breaks.

2.7 Spray Buff FloorDefinition and PurposeSpray buffing is the repairing of worn spots on finished floors by re-applying finish to worn areas and then buffing using a rotary floor machine.The finish on floors does not wear evenly in all spots because not all areas have the same traffic, so a visible wear pattern begins to show up. Reconditioning these wear areas make the floor look better and reduces the number of times the entire floor needs to be stripped and finished. It is both a cleaning and a preventive maintenance technique.

Equipment and Materials1. Dust mop2. Bucket3. Wringer4. Cotton mop5. High speed floor buffing machine6. Spray buff pads7. Putty knife8. Spray buff solution9. Wet floor signs10. Plastic bag11. Dust pan & lobby broom12. Spray bottlePreparation1. Check cord and cord cap for cracks.

2. Center buffing pad on drive block.

3. Put drive block on machine.

4. Check tank sprayer and attachments, if applicable.

5. Fill spray bottle with spray buff solution. It is very important to use solution compatible with your floor finish.

6. Assemble all supplies and move to work area. Make sure all equipment is clean.

Technique1. Put out wet floor signs.

2. Clear area of furniture.

3. Inspect the floor to determine what type of floor preparation is required. Floor must be free of dust and dirt.

4. Prepare the floor. Dust mop and then damp mop if required. Follow procedures under dust mopping and damp mopping. Remove adhesive materials with putty knife. For particularly stubborn spots, hand scrubbing may be necessary. Using a mildly aggressive pad (the center knock-out of the buffing pad will do nicely), gently work out heavy heel marks and scuffed spots.

5. Plug in spray buffing machine. Place the cord clear of the machine and behind you, with the attached end over your shoulder.

6. Start at an area furthest from the door and work backwards to avoid stepping on finished areas.

7. Spray material on the floor, apply evenly, and then buff. Pass over the same area about 3 times. The first pass should spread out the finish, the second pass starts shining and drying the finish, and the third pass should blend the finish into the old finish. Do not spray too large an area at a time. Apply one full spray for each 2 to 3 linear feet, moving the machine over the sprayed area. Do not cover more than 5 feet per pass, because the solution must be wet to hold the dirt in suspension.

8. Do not continue to use a dirt-clogged pad. If the solution dries before it is buffed, dark circles may show up that are hard to get off. Be careful not to splash finish on walls or furniture which would have to be cleaned.

9. If pad becomes too full, stop, unplug the machine, and turn the pad over or put on a new one. Slip used pads into a plastic bag so they will stay moist until they can be cleaned back in the supply room.

10. Occasionally, a fine powder may be left on the floor when spray buffing is completed. If so, repeat dust mopping procedure.

11. Replace furniture.

12. Collect equipment and return to supply area for clean up.

13. Clean pads and machine as directed by manufacturer. Store.Safety Precautions

1. Use wet floor signs.

2. Be sure cords are in good order.

3. Never leave cords where they may trip someone.

4. Do not walk on wet finish; it is slippery.

5. Always follow manufacturer's specific instructions.

6. Never leave machine unattended unless the cord is unplugged, properly coiled, and secured to the handle.

7. Never change pad until machine is unplugged.

2.8 Strip Floor FinishProper stripping requires the right equipment, good chemicals, adequate help, and ample time. Stripping is very labor-intensive and disruptive to many facilities. It should only be performed when deep-scrubbing and recoating will no longer revive your floor.Definition and PurposeStripping is the removal of the floor finish by a scrubbing machine and stripping solution.Stripping is done to remove old finish and prepare the floor for refinishing, to prevent deep wear from damaging floors, and to restore appearance.

Equipment and Materials1. 2 Buckets2. 2 Wringers1. 2 Mops2. Stripping solution3. Wet vacuum4. Dust mop5. Putty knife6. Dust pan & lobby broom7. Floor scrubber: stripping pad (black)8. Wet floor signs9. Doodle bug and 3M pad10. NeutralizerPreparation1. Mix stripping solution in bucket assembly.

2. In other bucket, mix neutralizer and clean cold water.

3. Take tools and supplies to area.

Safety Precautions

1. Use caution when handling solutions and machines.

2. Use mops for specific purposes. IMPORTANT Do not cross contaminate mop heads.

3. Use warning signs.

4. Watch cords of machinery. Never leave it unattended.

5. Be sure any splattered stripper is wiped off.

6. Do not mix different chemicals together. Improper mixing can cause hazardous fumes or solutions.

Technique1. Remove all furniture if possible.2. Scrape up adhesives (e.g., gum, tar, tape, etc.) with putty knife.3. Dust mop entire floor.4. Prepare stripping solution in accordance with the manufacturers direction.5. Put out wet floor signs.6. Apply a liberal amount of stripper solution to the edges. Let it set for five minutes (do not let it dry on the floor). Using a scraper and/or doodle bug, completely detail the edges. DO NOT SPLASH WALLS AND BASEBOARDS.

7. Spread on coat of stripping solution with the same technique as for wet mopping. Use plenty of solution but do not flood the floor.8. Prepare your machine. Check cords. Be sure switch is off position. Mount pad. Plug in machine, and scrub floor. Machine may be heeled for scuffs (press hard on the side of the handle nearest the scuff without changing the angle of the handle). Cover the area two times. Note: Exercise caution when heeling machine or floor tile may burn.

9. Scrub any hard to get areas with doodle bug.

10. While still wet, take up stripping solution with wet vacuum if available; otherwise use mop.

11. Rinse floor thoroughly with clean mop and cold water mixed with neutralizer, using same procedures as with wet mopping.

12. Repeat until entire floor has been scrubbed and rinsed.13. Wipe off baseboards and any equipment or furniture that might be splattered.

14. Replace furniture.

15. Collect tools and supplies. Return to storage area.

16. Clean equipment. Empty vacuum tank. Clean rotary pads. Dry flat. Clean mops. Hang cloths and brushes to dry.

2.9 Finish Application ProceduresEquipment and Materials

1. Finish mop2. Bucket with wringer3. Plastic bucket liners4. Wet floor signs5. Floor seal / finishPreparation

1. Inspect floor to be sure it is completely dry and that ALL solution has been neutralized.

2. Prepare bucket. Start by using only clean equipment. Place a new plastic liner in a mop bucket. Pre-rinse finish mop with clean water and wring it out thoroughly. Pour finish into the bucket.

3. Place wet floor signs at both ends of work area.

4. Prepare mop. Dip your mop into the finish and carefully twist out or wring out the excess finish.5. Frame finish area (first coat). Frame a small area to be finished up to the baseboards approximately 15 feet at a time and wide enough for a comfortable figure eight swing of the mop. Always work towards your bucket.

6. Fill in using the figure eight motion. Proceed in this fashion until the entire work area is completed.

7. Refinish (second or more coats). Once the first coat is fully dry (30 minutes under normal conditions), apply the second coat. This time, create an outline as in Step 5, but stay 6 inches away from the baseboards. Fill in using the figure eight motion.Note: If you use the same mop for applying finish that is used for applying seal, be sure to rinse thoroughly before refinishing. It is not recommended that you use the same mop for both.2.10 Scrub and RecoatDefinition and PurposeThis task is a combination of tasks grouped together. It includes dust mopping the floor, wet mop - heavy, which also covers black mark removal, and applying two coats of finish.This process is intended to restore traffic pattern areas. Finish should only be put down on a clean floor and only in the traffic pattern, or area of visible wear in the finish. It should never be placed wall-to-wall.

If very heavy soils exist or dirt is still embedded in the finish after damp mopping, it may be necessary to scrub the floor first. Finish should never be placed over dirt, or yellowing and build-up will occur. It is usually best to put on very thin coats of finish.

Equipment and Materials1. Dust mop2. Lobby broom and dust pan3. 2 Buckets4. 2 Wringers5. Neutral synthetic cleaner6. Floor machine with scrub pad7. Neutralizer8. One cotton mop (for wet mopping)9. One rayon mop (for applying finish)10. Doodle bug pad11. Putty knife12. 4eight" mop spreader for large areas (or suitable size depending on area). For smaller areas use a bucket, wringer, and rayon mop.13. Tank sprayer14. Metal interlock finish15. Wet floor signs16. pH testerPreparation1. Mix neutral cleaner in bucket.

2. Fill rinse bucket with cold water and neutralizer.

3. Fill tank sprayer with floor finish and pump-up pressure.

4. Rinse mop spreader in clear water and wring out thoroughly.

5. Take tools and supplies to the work area.

Technique1. Remove only the furniture necessary to allow easy access to the area in need of cleaning and re-finishing.

2. Dust mop entire floor using dust mop procedure.

3. Inspect the floor. It must be free from dirt and dust.

4. Put up wet floor signs.

5. Wet mop floor (see: wet mop procedure). If floor has dirt and black marks embedded into it, the floor must be scrubbed (see: machine scrub-rotary machine). Never put finish on dirt or black marks.

6. Test pH of the floor and let dry.

7. Apply some finish to spreader mop to moisten it, then spray a fine mist of finish solution to the floor in a smooth and even back and forth motion. Finish should be applied to traffic areas only, never wall to wall. Use the mop spreader in halls and large open areas. Use a rayon mop in smaller, congested areas.

8. Use the dust mop to spread metal interlock finish on the floor. Spread as thin a coat as possible and keep the mop head flat on the floor so that the drier end strands spread the solution smoothly.

9. Let dry or use floor fans to speed drying.

10. Put second coat of finish on traffic areas if necessary. Let dry thoroughly.

11. Return furniture and wipe any splatters from furniture, baseboards, and equipment.

12. Return equipment to storeroom. Clean and store.

13. Uncontaminated finish from the sprayer may be saved. Throw away unused finish from a bucket. Do not mix with stored material.

Safety Precautions

1. Use warning signs.2. Be sure the equipment used is clean.3. Keep solutions away from electrical outlets.4. Do not splash solution on baseboards or walls.5. Be especially careful when walking on wet floor finish.2.11 Refinish Four-Coats (Deep Strip)

Definition and PurposeThis is a combination of tasks grouped together to simplify a complete process. This task includes stripping the floor using a floor scrubber and applying four coats of floor finish. Stripping is done to remove old finish and prepare the floor for refinishing. A metal interlock finish puts a protective coating on soft floors that helps keep gritty dirt scratches from accumulating. It helps maintain a better look over a longer period of time and makes it easier to remove dust and dirt that collects.Equipment and Materials1. Dust mop2. Lobby broom and dust pan3. Buckets4. Wringers5. Stripping solution6. 2 cotton or rayon mops7. Floor scrubber8. Brushes or pads (black pad for stripping)9. Putty knife10. Doodle bug11. Neutralizer12. Wet vacuum13. 4eight" mop spreader for large areas (or suitable size, depending on area). Use a bucket, wringer and a rayon mop for small areas.14. Tank sprayer15. Metal interlock floor finish16. Wet floor signs17. pH testerPreparation1. Mix stripping solution in bucket. Fill rinse bucket with cold water and neutralizer.

2. Fill tank sprayer with floor finish. NOTE: Use only the amount needed for the job.

3. Take tools and supplies to area.Technique1. Remove all furniture, if possible.

2. Dust mop entire floor (using dust mop procedure).

3. Prepare scrubbing machine. Check cord. Be sure switch is off, mount pad. Plug in.

4. Put out wet floor signs.

5. Spread on coat of stripping solution with the same technique as for wet mopping. Use plenty of solution but do not flood the floor. DO NOT SPLASH WALLS AND BASEBOARDS.

6. Using floor machine, strip floor. Machine may be heeled for scuffs (press hard on the side of the handle nearest the scuff without changing the angle of the handle). Cover the area two times.

7. Scrub all corners, edges, and hard to get areas with doodle bug.

8. While still wet, take up stripping solution with wet vacuum if available; otherwise use a mop.

9. Rinse floor thoroughly with clean mop and cold water mixed with neutralizer, using same procedure as with wet mopping. Check pH of floor.

10. Wipe off baseboards and any equipment or furniture that might be splattered.

11. Rinse mop spreader in clear water, wring out thoroughly.

12. Apply some finish to spreader mop to moisten it, then spray a fine mist of finish solution to the floor in a smooth and even back-and-forth motion. Walk at a quick pace to prevent the floor finish from drying, using caution on the wet floor.

13. Use a mop spreader to spread metal interlock solution on floor. Spread as thin a coat as possible and keep the mop head flat on the floor so that the drier-end strands spread the solution smoothly.

14. When applying floor finish, it is best to "box" the area. Outline the area along the walls or outer perimeter with the mop and finish. Then, using a thin coat, fill in the center area.

15. Apply the first coat wall-to-wall and let dry.

16. Apply the second coat of finish (repeat step 13).

17. Let dry.

18. Apply third coat of finish (repeat step 15). Stay one foot away from the wall.

19. Let dry.

20. Apply fourth coat of finish (repeat step 15). The final coat should be wall-to-wall.

21. Let dry.

22. Return furniture and wipe any splatters from furniture, baseboards, or equipment.

23. Collect tools and supplies and return them to storage area.

24. Throw away unused finish. Do not mix with stored material.

25. Clean equipment.

26. Empty vacuum tank.27. Clean rotary pads.

28. Dry flat.

29. Clean mops.

30. Hang cloths to dry.

Applying Finish with Wet MopIn smaller, congested areas (e.g., offices, lobbies or small hallways) it may be necessary to use a wet mop application of floor finish. To accomplish this, follow the method for REFINISH FOUR-COATS, with the following changes in techniques 11, 12, and 13.

1. Condition new mop head by soaking it in water and ringing it out several times to remove loose fibers.2. Instead of preparing the finish in the tank sprayer, prepare finish in a clean bucket with wringer.

3. Place mop in solution, then wring out to a damp consistency. Square the area by tracing the floor along the wall. Mop with a side-to-side, figure eight motion, overlapping strokes as you move backwards (see: wet mopping technique).

4. Spread a very thin coat and keep the mop head on the floor so that the strands of the mop can apply the solution evenly.

Safety Precautions

1. Use warning signs.2. Be sure the equipment used is clean.3. Do not splash solution on baseboards or walls.4. Be especially careful when walking on wet floor finish.

2.12 Apply Floor FinishDefinition and PurposeThis application, commonly known as "waxing," is the applying and polishing of a finish solution to protect the floor. Avoid using the incorrect term "wax" for floor finish.

The best type of finish is a metal interlocking synthetic solution, which puts a protective coating on soft floors that helps keep gritty dirt from scratching the floor, makes it look better, and best of all, makes it easier to remove dust and dirt from the floor as it collects. Mopping and stripping will need to be done less often. It is usually best to put on very thin coats of finish over a period of time, and spray-buff them regularly in between refinishing.

Equipment and Materials3. Dust mop4. 4eight" mop spreader (or suitable size depending on area), or rayon mop for small congested areas5. Tank sprayer6. Putty knife7. Metal interlock floor finish8. Wet floor signs9. pH testerPreparation1. Rinse mop spreader in clear water, wring out thoroughly.

2. Fill tank sprayer with floor finish and pump-up pressure. NOTE: Use only the amount needed for the job.

3. Assemble supplies and take to the work area.

Technique1. Clear area of all movable furniture and other obstructions, and open windows or set up ventilation fans.

2. Inspect the floor. It must be free from dirt and dust. If necessary, dust mop, damp mop, scrub, or strip.3. Check the pH of the floor.

4. Put up wet floor signs.

5. Apply some finish to spreader mop to moisten it, then spray a fine mist of finish solution to the floor in a smooth and even back-and-forth motion. Walk at a quick pace to prevent the floor finish from drying, using caution on the wet floor.

6. Use the dust mop to spread metal interlock solution on floor. Spread as thin a coat as possible and keep the mop head flat on the floor so that the drier-end strands spread the solution smoothly.

7. When applying floor finish, it is best to "box" the area. Outline the area along the walls or outer perimeter with the mop and finish, then using a thin coat, fill in the center area.

8. Let dry.

9. Put on extra coat(s) in high traffic areas, if needed, and let dry.

10. Return furniture and wipe any splatters from furniture, baseboards, or equipment.

11. Take equipment back to store room.

12. Clean and store equipment.

13. Throw away unused finish. Do not mix with stored material.

14. Wash or rinse mop head in clear water. Wring out thoroughly.

Safety Precautions

1. Use warning signs.

2. Be sure the equipment used is clean.

3. Keep solutions away from electrical outlets.

4. Do not splash solution on baseboards or walls.

5. Be especially careful when walking on wet floor finish.

2.13 Machine Scrub Rotary MachineDefinition and PurposeMachine washing is the use of a rotary machine to remove heavy soil from hard floors in open areas. A mop is used to place cleaning solution on the floor. The rotary machine uses brushes or pads to scrub the floor. The cleaning solution is then picked up from the floor using a wrung-out mop or a wet vac.Equipment and Materials1. Floor scrubber rotary machine2. Brushes or pads (red pad for light scrubbing, black for heavy stripping)

3. 2 Buckets4. 2 Wringers5. Cotton mop6. Cleaning solution7. Dust mop8. Wet vacuum9. Doodle bug10. Lobby broom and dust pan11. Wet floor signsPreparation1. Mix cleaning solution in bucket assembly.

2. Fill wringer bucket assembly with clean, hot water.

3. Take tools and supplies to area.

Technique1. Remove all furniture as necessary.

2. Dust mop as required.

3. Pick up dust and dirt with dust pan and lobby broom.

4. Prepare scrubbing machine. Check cord. Be sure switch is off. Mount pad.

5. Put out wet floor signs.

6. Spread on a coat of cleaning solution with the same technique used for wet mopping. Use enough solution, but do not flood the floor.

7. Using a floor machine, scrub floors. Machine may be heeled for scuffs (press hard on the side of the handle nearest the scuff without changing the angle of the handle).

8. While still wet, take up cleaning solution with wet vacuum or mop.

9. Rinse floor thoroughly with clean mop and hot water using the same procedure.

10. Repeat until entire floor has been scrubbed and rinsed.

11. Use a doodle bug for edges and corners.

12. Wipe off baseboards and any equipment or furniture that might be splattered.

13. Scrape up adhesives with putty knife.

14. Replace furniture.

15. Collect tools and supplies. Return to storage area.

16. Clean equipment.

17. Empty vacuum tank.

18. Clean rotary pads.

19. Dry flat.20. Clean mops.

Safety Precautions

1. Use caution when handling solutions and machines.

2. Use warning signs.

3. Watch cords of machinery. Never leave the machine unattended.

4. Do not mix different chemicals together. Improper mixing can cause hazardous fumes or solutions.

Floor Care Carpet3.1 General InformationThis section provides information on carpet care systems, procedures, and the equipment required to carry out a carpet care program. The procedures are those commonly recommended by competent independent authorities. It is impossible to guarantee that the suggestions and procedures contained in this section will give satisfactory results in every case. In addition, cleaning materials must be used in accordance with directions and with all proper precautions and safety practices which may be applicable.

Proper carpet maintenance is the key to the success of a carpet installation in terms of its cost to the owner and appearance level. Carpet's in-use cost is determined by carpet life, and carpet life can be significantly reduced if a proper maintenance system is not followed. The carpet maintenance program must be planned to handle the four types of soil carpets are exposed to:1. Dry dirt, such as sand, dust, ashes, and other loose soil, as well as surface litter that does not adhere to the fibers and can be removed by vacuuming.

2. Water-soluble and suspended soils, such as mud and non-greasy food stuffs, spillages which can be removed with water-soluble chemicals.

3. Petroleum-soluble soils, such as grease, tars, asphalt, and airborne materials which are spilled, tracked, and blown into occupied areas. They adhere stubbornly to carpet fibers. They must be removed with special detergents and cleaning agents.

4. Stains and discolorations, such as coffee, ink, blood, rust, urine, paints, etc., which must be removed as they occur with special materials and techniques.

It is the sand and grit which are the abrasives that account for the wear in carpet installations. The water and petroleum-soluble soils and spots cause the deterioration in the appearance of carpeting.

Fortunately for the housekeeping staff, carpet maintenance programs do not significantly vary because of type of rug construction or fiber content. The variation of maintenance programs results from the type and degree of traffic a carpeted area is receiving, as well as the type of equipment which is available for its maintenance. All maintenance programs as systems have both routine and recovery cleaning requirements.

Fiber Identification

By knowing the type of fiber you'll be cleaning or spotting, you can avoid potential damage. Using the burn test offers simple identification.

Test: Cut a small tuft of carpet fiber. Hold it with tweezers or a paper clip and ignite it. Observe the flame, odor, and ash. Use the chart below for identification.FIBERFLAMEODORASH

NYLONBurns slowly while meltingCeleryHard, tough bead

OLEFINBurns with meltingAsphalt or ParaffinHard, tough, tan bead

POLYESTERSputters with meltingSweetHard, tough, black bead

RAYONBurns fast without meltingBurning Paper Almost none, like paper

ACRYLICBurns fast, white-orange colorCharred Meat Irregular, hard crust

WOOLBurns slowly and sputtersBurning Hair Easily crumbled, black bead

Fiber CharacteristicsFIBERCHARACTERISTICS

NYLONNylon is very durable, resilient and soil-resistant. It offers good colorfastness. Nylon tends to stain easily and dries slowly after cleaning.

OLEFINOlefin is naturally stain, fade- and moisture-resistant and is extremely colorfast. It cleans easily and dries very quickly compared to most fibers.

POLYESTERPolyester is naturally stain- and fade-resistant and offers exceptional softness and color clarity. Polyester is not as resilient as nylon and yellows with repeated exposure to petroleum-based spotters.

RAYONSeldom used carpet fiber since it's hard to dye.

ACRYLICPopular fiber in the 1960s since it looks and feels like wool. It tends to fill (fuzz), so it is seldom used.

WOOLWool is a natural fiber that does not offer the same durability and resilience as nylon. Wool is not exceptionally stain- or soil-resistant and should only be cleaned with neutral pH detergents. Always avoid excess moisture when cleaning.

3.2 Routine CleaningThe frequent routines are intended to pick up dry soil through the use of vacuuming. Proper and thorough vacuuming is the foundation. Vacuuming methods are fairly standard, although a fixed frequency is a bit difficult to establish. They depend to a great extent on the general layout of your building, the type of business it houses, the color of the carpeting itself, its traffic load, and the type of outside soil commonly brought in by traffic.

It is possible, however, to classify the different areas of a building and use these classifications as a general guide for establishing the vacuuming frequencies that will assure satisfactory results on a continuing basis.

Primary Areas

These are the areas which receive the heaviest dirt loads and consequently should be vacuumed frequently for maximum sanitation and protection. They include a building's entranceway, lobbies, the areas in front of elevators, first floor corridors and offices, food service areas (such as in a restaurant), ground level rooms, and other highly frequented areas, such as cigar stands, food and drink dispenser areas, and registration desks. Not only should these areas be vacuumed daily, but during periods of bad weather, a second or third vacuuming may be desirable.

Secondary Areas

Secondary areas, because of their location, are subject to lighter dirt loads. By the time they are reached, peoples shoes have been walked off in the primary areas. These secondary areas which are generally the upper floor of a building or offices which either are far removed from entranceway or which normally have a minimum of traffic. Depending again on the type and volume of traffic, color of the carpeting, and nature of the "native" soil, vacuuming one to three times a week is usually sufficient to keep these areas clean and protected against wear.Optional Areas

These are areas that have very little traffic, little or no spillage, or are so far removed from the entrances that practically no dirt remains on the shoes of people who use them. These areas should be vacuumed "as needed," but not less than once a month because they are subject to some dirt, if only oil-laden, airborne dust.

3.3 Recovery CleaningA periodic program of recovery cleaning is necessary to remove the water-soluble and petroleum-based soil from carpets. The presence of this type of soil results in the reduced appearance level of the carpet, e.g., as a noticeable dullness in color and color contrast. There are a number of chemical cleaning systems in use at present. Descriptions of the principal chemical cleaning methods are included in this chapter.

It is always best to test any carpet cleaning procedure on an extra piece of carpet or an out-of-sight area before using it. Follow the carpet manufacturer's recommendations carefully.3.4 Common Carpet ProblemsA number of problems which commonly arise in carpeted areas and possible means of correction are discussed in this section.

Static Electricity

Static electricity is familiar to all in the mild shock produced when touching a metal object after walking across a carpet. It's the result of friction and while it is not harmful, the shock can affect one's attitude and work, and can affect electronic equipment such as computers. A growing number of commercial carpets contain small amounts of stainless steel fiber which dissipate static electricity and prevent its buildup. Another method of reducing static electricity is the application of anti-static agents to the carpet immediately after installation and periodically as needed.

Shedding

Shedding is not a carpet defect, but rather common to all new fabrics. The pile yarn of carpet contains a certain amount of unavoidable short fibers that work loose during service. The shedding will gradually decrease over a period of time.

Fuzzing and Pilling

Loop piles made from yarns using staple fibers will fuzz to some degree. This fuzz normally breaks off or wears away in a relatively short period of time. The fuzz of long-wearing, staple nylon fiber persists longer. Lint from foreign sources or from the weaker fibers in the carpet get tangled and cling to the strong, protruding fibers and form piles. Persistent vacuum cleaning can either prevent this condition or keep it to a minimum. The remaining piles can be removed without harm to the carpet by clipping or by brushing. Continuous filament nylon does not shed, fuzz, or pile.

Mildew and Dry Rot

Mildew is an ever-present, spore-forming fungus that appears on the back or face of carpet of various colors, but most commonly black. Its growth is promoted by a warm, moist, and confined atmosphere. If not brought under control, it can result in permanent damage referred to as dry rot. Mildew can be discouraged by providing adequate ventilation and reducing humidity.

Crushing and Depressions

Pile crushing will occur to some degree and is unavoidable. Regular vacuuming will minimize crushing. The feet of furniture will compress and cause depressions in the carpet. Badly crushed areas and depressions can be corrected by steaming. Cover the area with a damp cloth and hold a hot iron over it without pressing down. Brush up the pile and repeat if crushing is excessive.Spouting

After the carpet has been laid, you may notice a tuft protruding above the surface. This is more common in Wilton fabrics. During weaving, one end of the yarn may have been pinched between the shots and then worked loose. Do not pull; instead, clip the section of yarn that rises above the surface.

Shrinkage

The yarns used in constructing the carpet back have the inherent characteristic of shrinking when subjected to wetting. Rugs and carpets are not guaranteed against shrinkage. Carpets properly cleaned "on location" should not shrink to any appreciable degree. Shrinkage is caused by saturating the back of the carpet with an excess of liquid. In "plant cleaning," carpets usually shrink if not held to their original dimensions during drying. Some professional carpet cleaners control shrinkage through the use of stretcher bars and a tack strip, plus some labor, and consequently involve extra costs. Shrinkage is used advantageously by the carpet installers who frequently pre-wet the back of a carpet when making a wall to wall installation. When carpet dries, it contracts and tightens the installation. The force generated by the carpet when shrinking should not pull up the tackles stripping providing it is fastened securely.

Shading ("Water Marking")

After installation, some carpets appear to change color in certain areas. These areas are generally irregular in shape and have a blotchy appearance looking very much as though it was caused by spilled water. When viewed from the opposite direction, the same area appears lighter. This is not a defect, but rather an inherent characteristic of cut pile fabrics. Shading is caused by the difference in light reflection between the side and the cut ends of the tuft; the side ends are lighter in the shade than the cut ends. This contrast makes it necessary to impart a definite lay (direction) to the pile. Lay is imparted to the pile by making use of the piles attribute to take a set when steamed or brushed. If the pile lay is disturbed, shading results. This can occur in traffic areas and at traffic pivot points where the tufts are pushed in random directions. It can also be caused by irregularities in the underlay or floor surfaces. Sometimes the shading can be corrected by continually sweeping in one direction while it is wet. Success in correcting shading depends upon the severity of the crush and the effort put into changing the pile direction.

Rust

Rust stains in carpet are usually caused by ferrous metal furniture coming into contact with wet carpet. The best cure in this case is prevention. Always remove metal furniture until the carpet is thoroughly dry. Rubber, plastic, aluminum, or other non-ferrous material used as spacers under furniture will also help prevent rust-staining. When stains must be removed, a thorough vacuuming followed by a mild hydrofluoric or phosphoric acid solution and a neutral detergent should produce complete removal of the stain. If possible, test the cleaning process before using in a visible area.

3.5 Vacuuming CarpetDefinition and PurposeVacuuming carpet is the cleaning of the surfaces of the carpet and down into the fiber by using a machine that creates a powerful suction to draw up dirt, dust, and debris. Some vacuum machines also have a built-in brush to help loosen the dirt from the carpet and lift the pile fibers.

Vacuuming not only improves the appearance of an area, but preserves carpet appearance and life by removing the dirt and grit that tear up fiber and fabric. Regular vacuuming reduces the frequency of shampooing. Surface dirt is easier to remove than dirt that has worked down into carpet.Spot VacuumingVacuum only the areas that are subjected to heavy traffic or where there may be visible dirt or debris.

Equipment and Materials1. Vacuum2. Carpet cleaning attachments3. Wool duster or lobby broom4. ScissorsPreparation1. Check filter bag.

Technique1. Carefully take tools to work area.

2. Use the wool duster for tight corners and baseboards, or use the lobby broom to brush the dirt out far enough for the vacuum to reach.

3. Inspect the carpet for loose strings or strands of fiber. Carefully trim these off with scissors to prevent further damage.

4. Plug in machine. Check to be sure the cord is not creating a safety hazard in an aisle or walkway.

5. FOR UPRIGHT MACHINE: start to vacuum the area farthest from exit door. FOR TANK-TYPE MACHINE: set the tank in a central location in the room.

6. Work with push-pull strokes. Use an arm's length stroke and move backwards so that the carpet pile is set on the pull stroke.

7. Use two strokes for each pass; overlap them to prevent missing spots.

8. Move light furniture or obstructions out of the way as you vacuum around them.

9. Replace furniture for an orderly appearance.

10. Take tools back to storage.

11. Empty vacuum bag or tank as frequently as needed; remember that an empty bag or tank will help create better suction and make your work that much quicker and easier.

12. Clean machine and attachments.

13. Store.

Safety Precautions

1. Be constantly aware of where cord and hose are to prevent tripping accidents.

2. Never move furniture into a walking area, passageway, or entrance.

3. Move the machine carefully. Do not bump or mar baseboards or furniture.

4. Never leave a vacuum machine unattended unless it is unplugged with the cord properly coiled and secured on the machine.

3.6 Spot Clean CarpetDefinition and Purpose1. Spot cleaning carpet is the cleaning of soiled surfaces of the carpet and down into the fiber.

2. Spot cleaning improves the appearance of an area and preserves carpet appearance and life by removing stains that will set and may spread.

Equipment and Materials1. Paper or cloth towels2. Spray bottle3. Waste containerPreparation1. Fill spray bottle with cold water or mild detergent solution.Technique1. Wet area where spot is located.

2. Blot stain with paper towel. Stain should transfer from carpet to towel. Do not rub.

3. Repeat process until spot is removed.

4. Collect equipment and return it to storage areas. 5. Clean equipment.

3.7 Bonnet Buff CarpetDefinition and PurposeBonnet Buffing is the use of a rotary machine with a cloth pad or bonnet. This combination of the rotary action with the cleaning bonnet and cleaning solutions allow for rapid removal of spots, stains, and soil. The speed of the bonnet generates friction and heat, creating a lifting force that draws soils from the carpet fibers into the bonnet. Bonnet Buffing should not be used to replace extraction methods. It is, however, an excellent, efficient, and effective process for cleaning traffic areas.

Equipment and Materials1. Rotary machine2. Clean bonnet pads3. Pad holder4. Cleaning and rinsing solutions5. 2 Mop buckets6. 2 Wringers7. Heavy duty extension cord (if needed)8. Spray bottle, trigger type9. Cleaning solution10. Neutralizer11. Warning/safety signsPreparation1. Mix pre-spotter solution in spray bottle, or in a larger container if more will be needed.

2. Mix cleaning solution in one bucket assembly. Follow manufacturer's instructions.

3. Put neutralizer in rinse water of second bucket assembly.

4. Put wringers on buckets.

5. Prepare the rotary machine. Mount a pad holder, e.g., Velcro fasteners that attach to the undersides of the plates. Check the cord for cuts or damage.

6. Get several clean cloth bonnets.

Technique1. Take equipment and materials to assigned area.

2. Spray area to be cleaned with cleaning solution. Allow this solution to work for 5-10 minutes.

3. Put cloth bonnet into the cleansing solution and wring it out.

4. Put wet bonnet under the rotary plate and pad holder.

5. Turn machine on and buff the area previously sprayed with the cleaning solution.

6. Stop the machine when the bonnet appears soiled. Remove the bonnet and place it in the bucket of rinse water, then wring the bonnet out.

7. Return bonnet to bucket of cleaning solution, then wring bonnet out.

8. Place bonnet on the underside of rotary machine.

9. Continue this process until carpet fibers are clean.Helpful Hints1. Prepare your pre-spotter solution first. Spray the area to be cleaned. While that is working, prepare your other equipment and solutions.

2. Always work ahead with your pre-spotter solution so it can work while you are bonnet buffing another section.Safety Precautions

1. Be careful not to spray cleaning or spotter solution on walls, furniture, or baseboards.

2. Always use warning signs, e.g., "Wet Floor", "Electrical Cords."3. Never leave a machine unattended. Watch electrical cords.

4. When mixing your solutions, always add the chemical to the water.3.8 Extract CarpetDefinition and PurposeExtraction employs the use of an extraction machine. The unit should be made up of two tanks. One, the Solution Tank, is for the fill water and emulsifier, and the other is the Recovery Tank, where soiled solution is returned. A hand-held power head with a hose connected between it and the machine is used to spray cleaning solution into the carpet fibers and, in turn, vacuums and returns the now-soiled solution to the Recovery Tank.

Extraction cleaning is the best carpet cleaning process available. Extraction will remove accumulated soils, residues, oils, and powders that may have crystallized. This process will also remove the resins from soil retardants and anti-statics, as well as brighteners that have been previously used.

Equipment and Materials1. Warning signs2. Extraction machine with power head3. Extension cord (if needed)4. Cleaning solution5. Pre-spotter solution6. White towel7. Floor blowers8. Bucket (optional)9. Rotary floor machine (optional)10. Bonnet pads (optional)Preparation1. Remove furniture where necessary.

2. Inspect the carpet for problems such as ink, lipstick, paint, etc. These are dyes and should be worked on prior to cleaning. Use a dry-cleaning agent and a towel to blot the area being spot cleaned.

3. Test the cleaning solution to be used on a small, unnoticeable area. This is important, as the cleaning agent could cause color bleeding, color loss, or color change. Apply the cleaner, wait several minutes, and check with a white towel. If color is noticed in the towel, check for use with an acid based cleaner, as acids are normally used to set dyes.

4. Prepare the cleaning solution and spray the area to be cleaned. This will aid in loosening the soil.

5. Mix neutralized solution in a pail or bucket and pour into Solution Tank on extracting machine. Follow manufacturer's recommendations.

Technique1. Take extractor machine and other materials to assigned area.

2. Plug machine's electrical cord into outlet.

3. Place warning/safety signs in the area.

4. If machine has a thermostat, set to manufacturer's recommendations.

5. Start extracting in an area that will allow you to work towards the exit without having to walk or move extractor unit over areas already cleaned.

6. Move the power head at a rate that will allow the spraying and suction actions to perform at their best.7. Move the power head with smooth, even strokes, overlapping each pass. Follow manufacturer's recommendations.

8. Set up floor blowers to speed up drying time.

9. Continue this process until area assigned is clean.

10. Replace furniture when carpet has completely dried.

Instant Expert Tips1. Always test cleaning solution on a small area of the carpet before extraction. This important step may save thousands of dollars of carpeting.

2. For faster drying time, always use floor blowers and, if necessary, use a rotary machine with a dry cloth bonnet under it. The bonnet will act as a wick, pulling additional moisture from the carpet fibers and advancing the drying time. A bucket assembly with a wringer may be needed to wring the bonnet pad out occasionally.

Safety precautions

1. Always exercise caution when mixing chemical solutions. Follow manufacturer's instructions carefully.

2. Never leave machine unattended. Watch power cords.

Floor Care Terrazzo & Finished Aggregate4.1 General InformationThis category includes several types of high-gloss finish materials that are maintained with applied finishes.

The most common example of finished aggregate floor covering is terrazzo. It is long wearing, durable, glossy, and relatively easy to maintain.

Some Less-Common Aggregate Floors are:Oxychloride, Magnasite, and Granolith.These coverings utilize different binders, fillers ,and curing agents; they are, however, generally maintained and installed the same as a resilient floor. It is always advisable to obtain care and finishing information from the manufacturer or installer.

Terrazzo is basically a mixture of approximately 30% cement and 70% marble chips. Epoxy and plastic base materials are sometimes used in conductive and special use floors.Care1. The care of terrazzo is determined by its age, use, and condition.

2. When maintaining new installations it is best to secure specific and complete maintenance instructions in writing from your flooring contractor or manufacturer.

3. Although terrazzo and other poured floors are long wearing, relatively easy to maintain, and often installed in beautiful colors and designs, they are seeing less use as inexpensively installed and manufactured floors are developed and marketed.

New Installations (Cement Matrix)

1. New installations should be scrubbed and rendered perfectly clean prior to the application of penetrating sealer. Apply one or two coats of contractor-recommended sealer.

2. For the first two to three months, damp mop daily and wet scrub at least three times weekly to bring out the natural luster and aid in the proper curing of your terrazzo floor.

Routine Care1. For normal care of terrazzo floors that have been properly maintained, sealed, and are over three months in age, provide the following care: damp mop using a neutral synthetic detergent and remove spots and stains immediately. Marble requires little protection from wear or moisture.

2. If the matrix is of a cement base, it is porous and requires protection from absorption and wear. Apply penetrating sealer as needed. Follow manufacturer's directions closely.

Old or Abused Floors (Cement Matrix)1. The extent of specialized maintenance required will depend on the condition of the floor. If it has become pitted and uneven or has developed a dull crust-like surface (sometimes called metal plate or alkali ice), regrinding by a flooring contractor may be required.

2. If this is impossible, some improvement may be seen by complete stripping and the application of a surface-type coating.

3. Floors that have dulled over the years but are not pitted should be stripped several times in succession and rinsed at least three times. Allow at least 24 hours drying time before application of several coats of penetrating sealer.

4. Floors that have had heavy surface-coating applied such as shellac, lacquer, or epoxy will require special chemical strippers. These products usually contain strong acids or alkalies which can, in a short time, prove extremely damaging to a poured cement matrix floor.

5. The use of these products is to be avoided whenever possible; if they must be used, however, directions should be followed closely and numerous, thorough flood rinsing and wet vacuuming should be provided. As an added measure, test the damp floor in several places with litmus or pH paper for evidence of chemical film or residue.

Precautions1. Cleaning chemicals containing caustic alkali, acid, metallic salts, or other strong ingredients should never be used in the maintenance of terrazzo and other finished aggregate floors.

2. Note: The use of chemicals containing water-soluble inorganic, metallic, or crystallizing salts will cause dusting, efflorescence, and pitting of the surface.

3. Do not use coarse or abrasive materials for scrubbing or maintenance, as they will permanently scratch and dull the surface.

4. Do not use oily mop treatments of sweeping compounds. Due to the porous nature of most matrix materials, adequate protection from spills, stains, and soils should be provided by the use of a penetrating sealer.4.2 Dust Mop FloorDefinition and PurposeDust mopping is floor dusting. It is used to clean dust, light soil, and light litter from smooth-finished floor surfaces. It will not remove heavy soil, spills, or stains. Dust mopping is done to improve the appearance of floors, to prepare floors for deeper cleaning procedures, and to lengthen the time between more extensive cleaning procedures. Dust mopping does a better job than push broom sweeping, which scatters dirt. It is best done after furniture dusting, which may cause dirt and dust to settle on the floor. Removing the dust and grit also preserves the floor.

Equipment and Materials1. Untreated dust mop: Small mop for congested areas, large mop for open areas2. Putty knife3. Lobby broom4. Dust pan5. Waste containerTechnique1. Move furniture only if necessary.

2. Use lobby broom for hard to get places, like corners.

3. Brush dust and litter into open area where the mop will pick it up. Flute the mop before you start.4. Shake gently so all strands are spread.

5. Rest the handle of the dust mop in your right palm, thumb on top, placing your left hand an easy distance below your right, with the fingers gently closed to steady and guide the mop. (Switch hands for lefties).

6. Start floor dusting at the far end of the room and work toward the door, dusting with an "S" motion.

7. Hold the mop at an angle and move forward with a swinging stroke, back and forth, covering about an eight' path. At the end of each stroke, change the mop heads direction by twisting the handle to keep the same edge in front. Always move toward the leading edge.

8. Avoid lifting the mop and never tap or shake the mop on the floor to free excess dirt. That will scatter more dirt.

9. Start at the walls and move litter and dirt into the aisles of the return path. Overlap strokes to prevent dust lines and missed areas.

10. Check floor for gum or other sticking matter and use putty knife to remove.

11. Mop under furniture using a circular stroke to keep the same edge of the mop head forward.

12. Use a one handled mopping motion in obstructed areas, such as knee-openings under desks (always move chairs to clean these areas). Be sure to mop close to the legs of equipment.

13. Make small piles of dust in the return path. Large piles spill out over the sides of the mop in the return sweep.

14. Sweep up dust pile with lobby broom and dust pan. Carefully empty the dust pan into waste container to prevent scattering.

15. Clean dust mop by pulling dust and dirt into waste container with gloved hand. Do not shake.

16. Return any moved furniture.

17. Return tools to storage area ready for use.

18. Replace mop head every other day, or as needed.

Safety Precautions

1. Keep the dust pan and all equipment out of traffic areas where people might trip on them.4.3 Damp Mop FloorDefinition and PurposeDamp mopping is the removing of light soil from a floor by the smooth stroke of the mop head and clear water or a solution that needs no rinsing. Damp mopping is done to remove dirt that dust mopping cannot handle and wet mopping does not require. Damp mopping requires no rinsing and therefore demands less time and energy.

Equipment and Materials1. Bucket2. Mop wringer3. Cotton or rayon mop4. Putty knife5. Dust mop6. Lobby broom & dust pan7. Doodle bug and 3M pad8. Wet floor signs9. Mild cleaning solutionPreparation

1. Mix rinse-free solution in bucket. This is a specific type of cleaner.

Technique1. Take all equipment and supplies to area.

2. Put up wet floor signs.

3. Damp mopping is done in the same way as wet mopping, except the rinsing operation is not necessary because only a mild rinse-free cleaning solution or clear water is used. Use the same floor preparation, stroke, and cleaning pattern. EXCEPT each time the mop is processed, it is wrung out until just DAMP, not fully wet.4. Be careful not to over-wet the floor.

Safety Precautions1. Damp floors can be slippery. If large areas are being done where any people may be walking, use wet floor signs.

Floor Care Masonry5.1 General InformationThe masonry floor category includes a variety of types of low gloss materials. They generally are very durable and require little or no applied finish. These materials include clay tiles, stone, slate, brick, marble, travertine, and unsealed concrete.

5.2 Clay Tiles and BrickA clay type product is kiln-baked to the hardness of stone. It is often used in areas which are subjected to excess moisture or areas that demand ease in maintenance. Common examples of clay floor coverings are:

Ceramic Tile

Glazed or unglazed tile, generally small in size, often arranged in mosaic patterns. For floors or walls.

Paver Tile

Unglazed tile similar to ceramic, but larger in size. Particularly suitable for heavy-duty floors.

Quarry Tile

Unglazed tile with a vitreous or semi-vitreous surface, such that tile can absorb 3% or less of its weight in moisture. Used often for heavy-duty floors.Faience TileSpecially crafted tile which is irregular in surface, color, and texture. Often used in walls and other vertical installations.

Conductive Tile

A special category in which the tile contains ingredients conductive to electricity, sufficient to drain static charges from the surface and dissipate into sub-floor. For operating rooms and other locations where an accidental spark could cause an explosion.

CareProvide regular daily maintenance. Use synthetic detergents that are neutral on the pH scale. Check with manufacturer with regards to the use of penetrating sealers or finish. Use synthetic pads or nylon grit brushes for complete scrubbing or stripping.

Precautions1. Allow newly laid and grouted tile to dry for approximately ten days prior to use or cleaning. Do not use coarse abrasives, as they will scratch the tile surface. Do not use seals or finish on conductive tile. Consult tile manufacturer.

2. Do not use strong alkaline chemicals, as they tend to build up and crystallize. Repeated use forces the grout and tile to separate.

3. Do not use soaps, as they leave a dull film on the surfaces.

4. If strong chemicals must be used for difficult cleaning, remove immediately after use and neutralize.5. Follow with several clear water rinses.

Efflorescence

This is a phenomenon that can plague any unsealed tile installation. Water soaks through grout or porous tile into the mortar, dissolves soluble salts in the mortar, then rises again to the surface and evaporates, leaving the s