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e-Journal Earth Science India www.earthscienceindia.infoPopular Issue, April, 2011

Fortitude Return from Baralacha-la, Ladakh : Harrowing Tale of a Geological Expedition

H.S.Saini and S.A.I.Mujtaba.

We noticed a small team of army personnel led by a young army captain went past us with an injured jawan– having lost his eyesight due to snow-glare. They told us that whole of night their vehicle remained buried under snow. The captain himself had developed snow bite symptoms in legs.

Enjoying a leisurely TV-show, of a life-threatening cliff-hanger expedition and becoming a part of the same are two poles-apart experiences. Explorers meet such situations by choice, soldiers by duty and others by chance. Geologists, destined to work in most hazardous of conditions, often fall prey and become victims. Their ‘corporatae offices’ are located at glaciers, forest, mountains, desert and sea and this unique profession has few parallels in the world in terms of danger and adventure, complacence and accomplishment, service and gratitude. Many a times, it so happens that, not by mere default but by design, he reaches places where no one has walked before. However, the silver-lining is – the gathered experiences mature him to a grand story-teller and make him the choicest of grandpa.

Recently, while still continuing the unfinished geological-journeys, we became part of a harrowing tale as we met with a near-death-experience (NDE), worth sharing. The reel-shows of Discovery channel were re-enacted with ourselves playing the characters. The background is set in the distant and remote Indus Valley on Leh-Manali road in Ladakh. In the month of September, 2008, we were on way back to headquarters after completing a glacio-fluvial expedition in a highly tough and treacherous terrain. In order to make a preliminary appraisal of the late Quaternary deposits in different parts of Ladakh and collect samples for assessing their potential for reconstructing the palaeoclimatic history of the arid region, a field team of Geological Survey of India (GSI), Faridabad consisting of the authors and three colleagues, two drivers and two helpers left Faridabad on 6th September, 2008 in two field vehicles and reached Manali the same evening (Photo-1).

Photo-1: Team members at Madhi near Rohatang pass on their journey to Leh.

Photo-2: A rare terrace section of Indus river near Leh airport showing alternating fluvial sand and lacustrine laminated clays in lower part and fluvial layers in upper part.


Photo-3: A view of Pangong Tso lake in Ladakh. It is a saline lake that occupies a U shaped valley.

Photo-4: A lake sediment section on the SW part of Pangong Tso lake showing thinly bedded and laminated silt and clays. This section has been dated < 7ka.

After the night halt at Manali, the team reached Camp Patsio via Rohtang Pass the next day after a 12 hours’ tortuous and tiring journey of 120 km. Incidentally, the 4000m high Rohtang pass was without any snow so we easily descended to Koksar, at 3200m elevation, in the Chandra valley, watered by Hamtha and other glaciers around Baralacha-la. We went past the sleepy Kellong town, boasting of three famous gompas and the district headquarters of Lahual and Spiti. A large part of Lahual and Spiti remains cut-off by road from the outside world during winter, due to snow covered Rohtang pass. At Patsio, we spent the night, amidst fright and fear owing to continuous and unabated snowfall- a sign of impending danger ahead. Anyway, we resumed our last leg of journey from Patsio, crossed Zing Zingbar police post and ascended towards Baralacha-la amidst gentle-yet-continuous snowfall. The snow fall increased as we gained height. The road was fast disappearing and coalescing with snow. After some initial hiccups, we gave in and abandoned travelling further. Closely watching our helplessness, a gutsy truck driver approached us and convinced us to follow him. Focussed, we followed his tyre-trails and safely we finally made it to Baralacha-la (4830m) .Descending from Barlacha la was not a problem. With a speed of 5-20 km/hr we bypassed the Sarchu palin, Pang-la, Mor plain and by the time we reached Tanglang-la, the hill-ills had overtaken us as most of us had developed severe nauseation. On first day at Leh, we studied a Late Quaternary section (Photo-2) and obtained permissions for going to interior areas. On 8 th September we headed for the interior parts of Ladakh and reached Chisul after crossing Changlang-la, the second highest road in the world, where the Indian army camp served us tea and advised to leave immediately for health reason. By this time symptoms arising out of the shortage of oxygen was quite palpable. Chisul is famous for the bravery of Indian soldiers who fought with the China during 1965 war. From this camp we went to Pangong-Tso lake (Photo-3) and studied the sediment layers (Photo-4) and terraces indicative of the shrinkage of lake levels (Photo-5).

We collected data and samples so that based on their chemical-mineralogical and age studies we could estimate the timings of lake contraction as well as the climate inducing such changes. The Pangong Tso is ~130 km long saline lake situated at around 4350 m height in a U shaped valley in the territory of India-China border. The valley shapes are indicative of the fact that how gigantic were the glaciers in the past. Today, we find only the remnant ice caps on the hill tops. The drinking water in Chisul appears to be excessively enriched with fluoride which is evident by the stained teeth of villagers. The atmospheric oxygen was too meager to breath.


Photo-5: Gravelly terraces of Pangong Tso lake indicating shrinkage in lake level

Photo-6: A higher level of glaciofluivial deposit atop a hill, signature of old glaciations. The deposit gave an OSl age of around 100 ka.

Photo-7: Party member having a working lunch at Hanle.

Photo- 8. A seismogenic sand dyke (?) in the terrace of Hanle river. Such feature has been reported from many places along Indus also.

Our next camp was at Nyoma. It is situated on a large alluvial fan on the right bank of Indus River. There we made detailed study of the glacio-fluvial deposits occurring in three levels (Photo-6). We had a group lunch in the cold-arid and inhabited place called Hanle (Photo-7). We chanced upon to observe some excellent geological structures akin to seismites, recording neotectonic movements in the soft sediments (Photo-8).

After completing the work, the team started its return journey from Leh at 4000 hrs on 19 th

September under a potentially threatening weather condition. We had planned to reach Patsio in the evening after covering a 120 km stretch of Leh-Manali road that passes through four dreaded Las. First we passed the narrow, snow covered road atop the Tangnglang-la (~5200 m) at around 10.00 hrs. Long-drives along snow-covered roads by drivers from plains are not only dangerous but life-threatening many a times, which we became partially accustomed. After a troublesome descend, we crossed the modest Pang la. I was curious to locate the place where I had camped in the summer of 1981 during my first field season. It was a happy reminiscence of my younger days, which I explained to my younger colleagues. In our anxiety to cross Baralachala-la before sun set we were moving continuously and had not eaten anything since morning. Out next hurdle was Lachunglng-la, the 5019 m high narrow road with steep slopes. Most of us preferred not to look down the valley for fear of vertigo. The downward journey of Lachunglng-la consisted of 27 scissors. By the time we approached the valley minor droplets of snow had already started falling, but we conveniently ignored these early signs of an impending hazard. After about 15 km we crossed the Nakita pass (4740m) and came down to Sarchu Plain. It was around three o’ clock when we had a small lunch


consisting of rice and mango pickle. We went past the Sarchu Army camp, presenting a majestic look, beyond expressions. Our target was to cross Baralachala-la and then have dinner at Patsio. The unabated snowfall made the team members tense as they apprehended a hazardous scene at the top of Baralachala-la.

Photo-9: Snow covered vehicles at Baralacha-la. Photo-10: Indian Army chopper assessing the situation for rescuing the stranded passengers.

With silent prayers on our lips, we slowly ascended to Baralacha-la road. About a kilometer before the top, our movement virtually came to a grinding halt owing to an unforeseen traffic jam ahead around 3.30 noon. Our guesswork multiplied as to what has happened? We gathered that army personnel were engaged in road clearance activity and the jam would be clear in two hours time. Alas, it had not to be. Unfortunately, the intensity of snowfall went on increasing steadily. Many vehicles got stuck and lined-up behind ours. The darkness descended so our fright and anxiety. To further add our cup- of-woes, news came that road is not going to be cleared today. Hearing this many started walking downslope towards Bharatpur, a small location with 4-5 make-shift restaurants. Our team was in two minds – leave the vehicles and spend the night out in tents or stay back in vehicles. Without even having the faintest of ideas of the things to follow, we decided for shelter in our vehicles. Our worries were compounded by oxygen deficiency, ceaseless snow fall, gale winds, pitch darkness and above all not being able to attend to the nature’s call. Many panicky-gripped tourists were moaning and wailing at the highest pitch– only to aggravate the fast-developing frightening scenario. Increasing hunger further worsened the crisis.

Fortunately, GSI party had bought some apples from Leh and also had some leftover rice which we served to the needy lot along with vitamin tablets. Gale triggered minor avalanches down the step rocky slopes- sweeping three trucks down the slope. Confusion, chaos, misinformation and the fear of impending horror dominated the gloom-gripped area. News poured in that four persons were swept away by the avalanches. Daring and raring to unprecedented-challenge, we stayed in our vehicles– and gradually slipped into respective sleeping bags. Closing of car windows further aggravated our breathing trouble. One thing was common among all sufferers - only to be discovered later – that the entire sleepless night was spent thinking and worrying about our family members- an experience hard to convey in words.

Next morning i.e. the 20th September, all the vehicles were almost buried under the cover of snow (Photo-9). We woke-up with a ray of hope. We gently slid down the window glasses, removed the snow with the help of spoons and knives and forced the doors opened. It was not possible to get out of cars. Worse further was even no place to attend the nature call. We had a temporary reprieve as snow fall had stopped and sun appeared on the horizon giving us a new lease of life. We somehow got out of vehicles, removed the snow and started waiting for rescue operation. By the lunch time our


drinking water had also finished. Heating snow provided us the much-needed drinking water. Similarly some rice was cooked and distributed to fellow passengers including some foreign tourists. The party members remained partially hungry. We noticed a small team of army personnel led by a young army captain went past us with an injured jawan– having lost his eyesight due to snow-glare. They told us that whole night their car was buried under snow. The captain himself had developed snow bite symptoms in legs. The whole day passed restlessly mutually encouraging each other and guessing why Border Road Organisation (GREF) people have not turned up for road clearance. Attending to the nature’s call became a big problem. It was the test of nerves and sadly we were assessing 50-50 chances of survival. Some one hinted that in this uncertain situation why not we move down in the tents. Each one agreed to the proposal. We locked our cars and prepared to walk down to the tents. Hardly we had walked a few steps that we realized it was impossible to negotiate the 4 km distance covered with 3 feet thick snow and the road was invisible and no foot tract to follow. Losing hopes, we returned to our vehicles– only to experience the return of snowfall. Fatigued, tired and worn-out we passed the second day and the night in similar condition without food. Some remnant almonds and multivitamin tablets kept us breathing.

On the third day at around 10 AM, two air-force helicopters appeared on the horizon (Photo-10) and everybody came out shouting and waving at them hoping for air-lifting. But the choppers disappeared after dropping food packets most of which fell in the valleys. Nobody was thinking of food, everyone was worried about the safety. We felt satisfied that government was trying its best to rescue us. This was a time when we had a real Near-Death-Experience– called NDE in medical parlance. Snowfall continued with fluctuating intensity. The third day also passed with despair dominating over hope.

On fourth day, a helper of a truck-driver informed us that a road clearing GREF party has come close-by. This news had an electrified effect on us as we felt a sense of reprieve and revival. Charged and energized at this, few members of our team walked up to the GREF gang, on way went on adding a good number of panicky-gripped tourists. In the meantime, the few of us were trying to start the car engines which were frozen. We heated the engines by burning diesels soaked cloths below them. After hours of efforts we could ignite and start on vehicle. In the meantime, the truck drivers and helpers searched one dead body from the snow cover. It was a frightening scene. Our party members became friendly with the GREF workers and helped them removing the snow (Photo-11). Finally, lady-luck smiled on us and the road was cleared and we headed towards Sarchu. Major Francis, the officer In-charge of Sarchu camp provided us food and shelters both (photo-12). The dinner at the camp was a proverbial heaven-like experience.

On the morning of 23rd September, a Dy. S.P. of Himachal Pradesh Police came searching for the GSI party. We were delighted and gave a message for onward transmission to Faridabad office. Now we were relaxed that worried family-members and officials at Faridabad and Lucknow would feel a sigh of relief. We were offered airlifting by the army which we declined.

Next day, an army Signal engineer had some how arranged a phone call to our office and we could talk to Mr. R. K. Khorana, narrating him our nightmarish experience and the harrowing tale. We spent three nights (22 to 24 September) at the army camp and received all possible assistance including medical care. On the 25th, the GREF opened the Baralacha-la for traffic. Major Francis escorted us up to the safer point of Barlacha-la. On way we noticed Ladakh scouts searching the dead bodies buried under snow (Photo-13). We reached Manali the same evening after meeting and thanking the Deputy Commissioner of Kelong. He informed us hat a GSI party working at Hamtha glacier in Chandra valley has also suffered heavily. The Rohatng pass was completely covered with snow with a narrow lane opened for vehicular traffic. At Manali we celebrated our safe


returned. Next day we reached Faridabad. The family members with tearful eyes could hardly speak, and the communication was only through emotions. Few members of the team were unable to walk for the next 10 days because of the symptoms of snow bite and trauma. Our office organized a felicitation function which was chaired by Dr. P. N. Razdan, Sr. Deputy Director General, Northern Region who along with Mr. Khorana, Director, worked relentlessly for ensuring our safer rescue. Yes, the bottom-line reads – emergence of a tougher and stronger lot with a more energized zeal to serve this great organization called GSI.

Photo-11: GSI members helping the GREF in clearing the road.

Photo-12: Major Francies (third from right) with GSI and other army officers at Sarchu camp.

Photo-13: Jawans of Ladakh Scouts searching for the dead bodies in snow.

About the authors

Dr. H. S. Saini is Director, Luminescence Dating Laboratory, Geological Survey of India, Faridabad and Mr. S.A.I. Mujtaba is Senior Geologist, Geological Survey of India, Faridabad.Email: [email protected]

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