8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

1/37

Chapter 11 Dyeing and Printing

Consumers look for two things:

Aesthetically pleasing colors and prints Colorfastness - colors that are permanent

Bleed lose colors in water

Crock transfers color thru rubbing or abrasion

Fade lose color

Frost lose color from abrasion

Migrate shift in their color

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

2/37

Dyes and Pigments

Dyes (dyestuffs)

Dissolve in water

Most common way to add color

Natural dyes poor colorfastness

Chemical dyes Pigments #134

Do not dissolve in water

Resin binder necessary to adhere pigment tofabric

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

3/37

DYE

Mordant Natural acids or oxides used to improve the

colorfastness of natural dyes

Set To make permanent

Depth of Shade How dark a color you can get

Dye Lot Each dye bath prepared is considered a dye lot. Dyed

yarns include lot numbers. The number means they

were dyed at the same time

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

4/37

Pigment

Pigment

Inorganic compound used to add color

Binder

Holds pigment on textile surface

Curing Process of treating fabric with dry heat to set

finishes or pigments

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

5/37

Characteristics of Dyes

Bond chemically with the fabric

More colorfast

Crocking and fading are less of a problem Do not affect the texture of the fabric

Can be used on fibers, yarns, fabrics and garments

Printed colors must be aged with steam or heat

Washing and rinsing required to remove chemicals andexcess dye

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

6/37

Characteristics of Pigments

Cheaper and more efficient to apply

May stiffen the fabric

With dark colors, crocking and loss of color inlaundering may occur

Extensive color range possible

Can be added to manufactured fibers before extrusion Easier to obtain color match color is on the surface

Can be applied as solid color or print

Excellent lightfastness Colors must be cured heat or UV

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

7/37

Major Dye Classifications

BOX 11.3 pg. 174-175

Cellulosic Fibers

Protein FibersManufactured Fibers

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

8/37

Cellulosic Fibers Dyes

Azoic or Naphthol Dyes

Direct Dyes

Reactive Dyes

Vat Dyes

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

9/37

Protein and Manufactured Fiber Dyes

Protein Fibers

Acid Dyes Premetalized Acid Dyes

Manufactured Fiber Dyes

Cationic or Basic Dyes

Disperse Dyes

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

10/37

Dyeing Processes

Refer to Box 11-4 on p.177 Cost effective to delay until last stages of

production

Textiles may be dyed at several stages during

production

Solution dyeing #122 Stock or fiber dyeing #123

Yarn dyeing #124

Space dyeing #128

Piece dyeing #129

Product or garment dyeing

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

11/37

Dyeing Processes

Solution Dyeing

Prefiber stage Only for manufactured fibers added before

extrusion Excellent colorfast

Expensive

Stock Dyeing Good dye penetration

Adding color at the fiber stage

Yarn Dyeing Adding color after fiber has been spun to yarn

Excellent dye penetration

Expensive

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

12/37

Donegal wool tweed/stock or

fiber dyed

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

13/37

Yarn Dyeing

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

14/37

Dyeing Processes

Yarn Dyeing

Skein dye yarn wound in loose bundles

Package dye yarn is wound on packages with a hollow center Beam dye yarn is wound on the warp beam

Piece dyeing most common method solid color

Beam dye lightweight, open weave fabrics like above beam dye Beck dye fabric is stitched end to end and circulated thru dye

bath

Jet dye streams of pressurized dye in an enclsed system

Pad dyeing stresses fabric, uses pads to squeeze dye into fabric

Continuous dyeing for long fabrics efficient, but color

application may not be level, or consistent

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

15/37

Piece Dyeing

Primarily used for solid color fabrics

Continuous length of dry cloth Passed full-width through a trough of hot

dye solution

Cloth between padded rollers

Squeezes in color evenly

Removes excess solution

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

16/37

Padded Rollers for Piece Dyeing

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

17/37

Special Piece-Dyed Effects

Cross Dyeing #131

Multi-colored textile in blended fiberproducts

Union Dyeing #130 Solid color fabric in fiber blend products

Tone-on-tone Dyeing Shaded effect

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

18/37

Printing

Screen Printing

Three commercial screen methods Hand-screen printing

slow good for small orders

Automatic screen printing Fig 11-3 p. 182 Automated version of hand printing

Rotary Screen Printing

Fastest method

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

19/37

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

20/37

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

21/37

Printing

Roller Printing Fig 11-4 p.182

Similar to printing a newspaper

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

22/37

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

23/37

Types of Printing pg. 183

Direct Printing #132

Blotch Printing #133

Discharge Printing

Resist Printing

Duplex Printing Warp Printing

Flock Printing

Deluster Printing Burn-Out Printing

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

24/37

Blotch Printing

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

25/37

Discharge print

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

26/37

Warp ikat

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

27/37

Flock print

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

28/37

Special Printing Techniques

Heat-Transfer Printing #136

Also called thermal printing or sublimationprinting

Photographic Printing Also called phototransfer printing

Ink-Jet Printing Computerized process

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

29/37

Problems With Printing

Second quality merchandise

Increases costs and reduces efficiency

Two Problems with Printing

Out-of-Register Prints

Off-grain Prints

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

30/37

Out-of-register print

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

31/37

Printed off-grain

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

32/37

Handcraft Printing Techniques

Resists Methods Batik waxing and dye baths | Indonesia

Tie-dyeing tied then dyed

Stenciling like silk screening, but with stencil

Block Printing Oldest printing technique uses carved blocks

Hand Painting Airbrushing

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

33/37

Batik

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

34/37

Tie dye

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

35/37

Carved block used for hand

block printing

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

36/37

Hand block print

8/11/2019 FM211_chapter11

37/37