FIJIAN Chocolate

FijianFijian Chocolate

Now is the perfect time to rediscover the taste of chocolate, as a new breed of chocolate makers are starting to blossom. Consumers are becoming more discerning and there is even greater emphasis on the source and origin as well as a deeper interest in how it is made than ever before. This comes as a result of good quality chocolate becoming easier to find and subsequently consumers are being spoilt for choice.

Revitalising a Countrys Cocoa Heritage Through Chocolate Crafted at the SourceBy Elaine Young

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t is no longer sufficient for a chocolate bar to

be presented as being organic. Nor does it raise much interest among the chocoholics to declare that it is produced with fair trade cocoa beans, simply because the consumer now expects more. While in the past these were popular characteristics, more emphasis is being placed on bean to bar chocolates. Bean to bar chocolates are now taken a step further as a handful of manufacturers are getting right down to the source, and building cocoa processing facilities where the farms are located. This new wave of chocolate makers either closely work with the farmers to improve crops, provide training on better cocoa farming practices, or even grant a share of the company profits. A handful of boutique chocolate makers create single origin bars whose beans are grown, processed, and transformed into chocolate bars on site under the care and supervision of one group while providing more work and opportunities for the local community.

The creation of the chocolate bar as we know it has long been a joint effort between different groups,

cooperatives and companies. Traditionally, the vast majority of cocoa comes from small, family-run farms, a majority of which are from Africa followed by Asia and South America, often relying on outdated farming practices and having limited organisational leverage. Post harvest processes involving fermenting and drying may be done by the farmers themselves or a cooperative if available. Dried beans are then sent to exporting companies through local agents, and then subsequently shipped to chocolate manufacturers. The biggest manufacturing plants are predominantly located in Europe. Large chocolate manufacturing companies sell chocolate bars directly to the consumers or distribute the chocolate to chocolatiers to be transformed into bonbons and pralines or specialty bars.

Tomohito Zukoshi is part of the small group of chocolate makers who is deeply involved with the growers, overseeing the process of creating the chocolate, from the growing of the pods, post harvest processes, to producing chocolate bars.

It all started in 2005 when Tomo and his wife Harumi, with their children, migrated to Fiji to live in Savusavu on the Vanua Levu Island. Originally, they opened a Japanese restaurant on the island. During their time in Fiji, they discovered cocoa and fell

in love with the fruit. They started to experiment with the cocoa beans and learnt the art of processing chocolate. They first served ice cream made with their chocolate, which eventually sold more than their sushi rolls. From there, the move to focus on making Fijiana Cacao chocolate bars began.

Although cocoa may not be a major crop in Fiji, it was the oldest export that the island had prior to coffee and tea. During the 1880s, the British brought it into cultivation. These are the same cocoa varieties which were also introduced into Sri Lanka from Trinidad and then subsequently transferred to Fiji and Samoa. Efforts by the government to establish cocoa as a crop started in the 1960s and took off considerably in the early 1980s as the world prices for cocoa increased. Cocoa tree plantations tripled between 1981 and 1985 and peaked in 1987, producing over 468 tonnes of cocoa beans that year. From that time, cocoa plantations in Fiji experienced a constant decline, with productivity reaching its lowest level in 2000. A combination of different factors resulted in this decline. Contributing factors included ageing trees surpassing maximum production potential, cocoa tree diseases, a fall in the cocoa world prices, inadequate marketing processes, tropical

Ifijian chocolate

cyclones (such as cyclone Kina in 1993 which destroyed several cocoa trees on the Viti Levu Island), and political instability. The majority of the cocoa farmers eventually shifted to crops that were more profitable.

In 2007, despite the low cocoa production in Fiji, Tomo decided to start manufacturing dark chocolate. In the early stages of Fijiana Cacao, he was personally involved in the plantation. He began his work by revitalising abandoned plantations in Vanua Levu Island. Tomo, along with a team of farmers, pruned invasive ivy that covered old cacao trees such as the Cundeamor Trinitario, black podded Amelonado Forastero cacao and the tough Calabachillo Forastero varieties. This allowed the flowers to bloom and by 2008 cocoa

pods started to grow once again.

Fijiana Cacao started by introducing locally grown and produced chocolates to tourism stores, retail outlets and local department stores. Hotels and international resorts across Fiji have supported their local chocolate industry which helped propel Fijiana Cacao as a brand. They then expanded their reach and are currently exporting to the United States of America, Belgium, New Zealand and Australian markets. Fijiana Cacao has also been introduced to Sweden, Geneva and also to Switzerland.

Marketing efforts through international exhibitions have helped Fijiana Cacao to be recognised worldwide. The company has won awards for their efforts, such as the 2012 Prime Minister Exporter of the Year Award and the SIAL Paris Innovation Award.

Subtle flavours of honey, spices, nuts and raisins with a hint of smokiness are the taste experiences that we can expect from a Fijiana

Cacao chocolate bar. The flavours are influenced by the Trinitario and Forastero bean varieties that grow in the region. The plantations are located in areas with plenty of shading trees such as paw paw, coconut, guava and banana trees. The consistent tropical temperature as well as humid environments, with regular rainfall, are the perfect conditions for growing Fijian cocoa trees.

Fijiana Cacao has come a long way from where they started. This is just the beginning of a bigger vision that Tomohito Zukoshi has for the company. He envisions Fijiana Cacao to be the pillar of the South Pacific chocolate industry, while supporting the farmers and improving plantation techniques, as well as post harvest processing procedures. Tomo envisions reinvigorating the once prosperous cocoa industry of Fiji.

It is going to be a long journey with many challenges along the way, but its clear that Tomo is deeply devoted to chocolate. He is dedicated to helping the farmers be proud of the Fijian cocoa industry, being part of something special and having a strong rekindled community spirit. He is happiest when he sees the smile of accomplishment from them. Only through the support from the consumers, industry partners and government would this be possible.

Tomohito Zukoshi, the chocolate man from Fiji is passionate and driven to make his mark in the cocoa industry.

Elaine is a Consultant Pastry Chef/Chocolatier who has worked with food companies helping them to create an engaging connection with their consumers through professional and expert advice, recipe development, demonstrations and informational content. She offers services on training and menu design for the hospitality industry needing creative input and improved productivity in pastry and chocolate operations.

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ABOVE: FAR RIGHT: Tomohito and wife Harumi

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FIJIAN Chocolate

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