February 2016

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the darkness triple-chocolate

croissant at la patisserie

chouquette, p. 42

2 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com February 2016

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FEBRUARY 2016 • VOLUME 16, ISSUE 2

What do youcook to impress

a date? Allyson MaceMeera Nagarajan Heather HughesCatherine KleneTiffany LeongCatherine KleneKristin SchultzEmily Lowery, Kristin SchultzMichelle VolanskyJonathan Gayman, David Kovaluk, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle VolanskyVidhya NagarajanGlenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Holly Fann, Hilary Hitchcock, Heather Hughes, Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Cory King, Karen King, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Dee Ryan, Kristin SchultzAllyson MaceJill George, Kathleen Goodman, Angie Rosenberg Amy HydeJill GeorgeKathleen Adams, Hannah Ballard, Christian Deverger

PUBLISHERART DIRECTOR

MANAGING EDITORMANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL

ASSOCIATE EDITOREDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR

STAFF WRITERPROOFREADERS

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INTERNS

Homemade pizza with my favorite

toppings

My personal fave: foie gras

Chicken teriyaki was my first "real" recipe, and I served it to everyone I dated in the 1990s.


FEBRUARY 2016

contents

three cup chicken at tai ke

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7EAT THISCannoli at Piccione Pastry

8MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE Kevin Willmann of Farmhausby kristin schultz

10HIT LIST 4 new restaurants to try this monthby heather hughes, catherine klene and kristin schultz

editors' picks

dine & drink

27MAKE THISCajun pastaby dee ryan

40STUFF TO DOby kristin schultz

42WHAT I DOPatrick Devine of La Patisserie Chouquetteby heather hughes

last course

Features28 LOAVES WE LOVEProof that artisanal bread is on the rise in St. Louisby meera nagarajan

31 PARTY BAR9 bottles, 19 cocktails, $150, 1 hell of a partyby kristin schultz

36 DATE GREATFrom Tinder trysts to marriage proposals, here are seven spots to seal the deal. by holly fann

reviews

13NEW AND NOTABLETai Keby michael renner

16LUNCH RUSHThe Gramophoneby hilary hitchcock

19NIGHTLIFEYaquis on Cherokeeby matt berkley

21A SEAT AT THE BARFive experts tell us what to sip, stir and shakeby glenn bardgett, cory and karen king, and ted and jamie kilgore

23ELIXIRAquavit ascendingby kristin schultz

24VEGETIZE ITVegan beignetsby kellie hynes

COVER DETAILS

The Darkness triple-chocolate croissant from La Patisserie

Chouquette. Learn about Chouquette's assistant pastry chef Patrick Devine on p. 42.

PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER


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The cannoli at Piccione Pastry are some of our favorite things. They literally come in brown packages tied up with string. Delicate fried pastry shells crumble like sugar cookies with each bite. They embrace dreamy sweetened ricotta filling in a variety of flavors like traditional, pistachio and gooey butter. Pick up some of each, and you’ll sing

like Julie Andrews, too.

PICCIONE PASTRY, 6197 DELMAR BLVD., UNIVERSITY CITY, 314.932.1355, PICCIONEPASTRY.COM

editors' picks


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K E V I N W I L L M A N NIt takes more than great food to make a great meal: Service, ambiance, company and cuisine all combine to create a dining experience. It is these experiences that have stuck with 2015 James Beard Award semifinalist and Farmhaus chef-owner Kevin Willmann. From Chicago to Florence, Italy to a picnic table in Greenville, Illinois, here are the meals that changed Willmann’s life. – Kristin Schultz

Alla Vecchia BettolaFlorence, Italy, 2014(My wife and I) found this little, family-run restaurant across the park from where we were staying. … They sat us down between two tables. They had Jessica sit down and they brought this board and put it in between the two tables and brought a chair out of the back. Here we are packed into this already packed little tiny restaurant. We’re best friends now with the four people right next to us.

I learned in Florence that they embrace the fact that, “This guy makes the best prosciutto. This guy makes the best mortadella.” … It opened my eyes to (the idea that) it’s OK to bring in the very best.

Greenville, Illinois, ChildhoodThe more formative meals are the meals of my childhood with everybody getting

together for a harvest. All my aunts and my grandma would come over and pick all the beans from the garden in my dad’s backyard, and they’d sit there and can what seemed like 600 cans of beans. Then we’d go to Uncle Denny’s house and pick all of his corn. There were picnic tables full of shucked corn, and there were kids everywhere. I’m sure there were burned pork steaks and all of that. That’s the smell that goes along with the memory of being around the picnic table at the end of the summer and you have to get (all the produce) put away.

SchwaChicago, Illinois, 2008We went to Schwa at the time I was in Edwardsville, getting going. They were jamming Portishead full blast. The cooks were serving their own food. … The vibe was very much: This is who we are. You

were watching them make everything and bring it out to you.

I knew we were going to be walking into a really great meal, but my idea of fine dining was completely blown away. It was gritty, raw and real. There was no fluff. That was a huge influence on me: It didn’t have to be perfect, but we can still do what we want to do. We can get started now. We don’t have to wait forever and save hundreds of thousands of dollars. There are ways to make this work.

Farmhaus, 3257 Ivanhoe Ave., St. Louis, 314.647.3800,

farmhausrestaurant.com


hit list 4 new restaurants to try this month

After nearly a year of anticipation, James Beard Award-winning chef Gerard Craft opened doors at Porano Pasta, his first fast-casual venture and fifth restaurant. Step up to the counter in the

bright, two-story space and mix and match from a plethora of bases like organic farro or house-made semolina pasta, 11 sauces from sugo to pumpkin seed and lime pesto, proteins including tender beef meatballs and slow-roasted pork or

vegetables and toppings like crispy garlic and Pecorino Romano cheese. In additional to bowls, pick up an order of custom Companion foccacia bread with rotating toppings or a deep-fried Panzo – dough stuffed with anything from marinara and gooey mozzarella to meatballs and harissa, depending on the day’s special. And be sure to save room for a salted caramel

gelato pop or a boozy frozen Negroni for dessert.

634 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6414, poranopasta.com

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The owners of South Grand’s Meskerem Ethiopian

Restaurant are adding to the fast-casual trend with their new concept, Moya Grill in University City. The small, contemporary space in The Loop offers a variety of wot (stew) and tibs (grilled) dishes with chicken, beef and a good number of vegetarian options. Start with the crispy sambusas – both the lentil and beef versions are worth a try. Meat lovers should order the beef tibs and appreciate the deep heat of the house berbere spice blend. For a veg-friendly option, the mixed vegetable wot features a satisfying, boldly spiced mix of cabbage, potato and carrot. Opt for the traditional, tangy injera instead of rice and enjoy the chance to eat with your hands, tearing off pieces of the spongy flatbread and wrapping each bite of tibs and wot.

567A Melville Ave., University City, 314.833.6621, moyastl.com

MOYAGRILL

Sushi rises again in Midtown. After the short-lived Flying Rolls

shuttered last year, Midtown Sushi & Ramen took its place, offering everything from sushi rolls to ramen bowls. Start your meal with an appetizer of spicy kare-age, bite-sized pieces of fried chicken doused in a sweet-spicy house sauce and sprinkled with sesame. Share a sushi roll or two, like the well-composed Dragon Roll, featuring crab salad, cucumber and avocado topped with eel, eel sauce and threads of fried sweet potato, a light departure from the usual tempura crumbs. Complete your meal with a bowl of hakata ramen, featuring a custardy egg and smoked pork belly (thanks to neighbor Dixon’s Smokehouse) all swimming in a rich pork broth with all the ramen fixings.

3647 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.328.2452, midtown-sushi.com

MIDTOWN SUSHI & RAMEN

Ramen has made its way to Clayton with stylish, fast-

casual Nami Ramen. Co-owner Jason Jan was a passionate ramen home cook before spending two months researching in Yokohama, Japan. Now Nami offers 10 styles of ramen in a cool, 50-seat space. Grab a seat at the bar overlooking the kitchen and snack on pan-fried gyoza filled with ground pork and vegetables or a tender pork belly steamed bun with house-made sweet soy glaze. Nami’s savory, satisfying signature tonkotsu ramen features tender char sui pork, wood-ear mushrooms and a marinated egg with a creamy yolk. Don’t fear the spice warning on the jigoku ramen either. Miso broth topped with ground pork and corn is amped up with a paste of tomatoes, chiles and shallots. This bowl is more flavorful than fiery, and it makes a tasty introduction to the classic Japanese comfort food.

46 N. Central Ave., Clayton, 314.833.6264, namiramen.com

NAMI RAMEN

above, chef-owner gerard craft, left, and corporate chef michael petres at porano pasta / below, tibs and wot at moya grill

hakata ramen at midtown sushi & ramen

jigoku ramen at nami ramen

This month on Sound Bites, editors Heather Hughes and Catherine Klene discuss Hit List Monday, Feb. 1 at noon on St. Louis on The Air. Then tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU later in the month when Hughes talks artisanal bread with Union Loafers Cafe and Bread Bakery co-founder and baker Ted Wilson.


By the end of the long meal, sitting in the sparse, spotless space with our faces bathed in the unflattering fluorescence of hanging office lights, the consensus among

the dinner party was unanimous: Tai Ke was the best Taiwanese food we’d ever eaten. Never mind the fact that most of us had never eaten Taiwanese food.

new and notableTai KeBY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

reviews

n e w a n d n o t a b l e TA I K E p . 1 3 / l u n c h r u s h T H E G R A M O P H O N E p . 1 6 / n i g h t l i f e YA Q U I S O N C H E R O K E E p . 1 9

All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

pork belly steamed buns

at tai ke


We weren’t the only ones. Other diners, mostly Asians, perhaps more familiar with Taiwanese food, had similar happy, well-lit faces. Unlike Los Angeles and other cities with seemingly endless styles of Asian cuisine, Taiwanese is as rare as pro football around these parts. Although many restaurants have a dish or two, Tai Ke is St. Louis’ only restaurant specializing in the cuisine.

Like all countries historically overrun by invaders and immigrants, Taiwan is a melting pot of cultures and culinary influences, first from China and later from Japan. So while Taiwanese and Chinese

cuisines share ancestry, do not conflate the two – even Tai Ke’s signature dish, Three Cup Chicken. Technically, yes, the dish is from southern China, but it’s so popular in Taiwan that it may as well be the national dish. Taking its name from the main ingredients (sesame oil, rice wine and soy sauce), hacked up pieces of braised thighs and wings are simmered with ginger, roasted garlic cloves, chiles and Thai basil until the sauce is thick, velvety and fragrant. It’s a complexly flavored dish that’s both appealing and unwieldy – lots of nibbling around those sharp-edged bones. There’s also a tofu version that’s much gentler on the tongue.

Other hot wok entrees to share include the sizzling tenderloin beef, a dish that lived up to its name with tender slices of beef, onion and bell peppers bubbling on an iron plate of piquant black pepper sauce. The marriage of fried shrimp balls with pineapple and bell peppers under a drizzle of mayonnaise was a glorious union. Salt and pepper sauteed shrimp, lightly breaded and crispy, was no less glorious on its colorful bed of chopped bell peppers, garlic, onion and slivered scallions. Chile stir-fry chicken (There’s also a shrimp version.) certainly showed off its Szechwan roots,

but it was the Hakka Stir-Fry that drew the highest praise: a deceivingly simple assembly of

matchstick slivers of pork, squid and dried tofu tossed with celery and garlic that, in a single mouthful, concatenated flavors and textures so surprising, even the squid-squeamish at the table reached for more.

Beef noodle soup, ubiquitous in Taiwan, makes a hearty meal on its own. Here, braised beef shank that I’ve found elsewhere to be gristly and chewy was as yielding to the bite as tenderloin, suffused in a dark, intensely flavored broth with threads of wheat noodles, rich with exotic notes of star anise and hints of red chile.

Adventurous eaters will gravitate toward dishes like chitterlings (pig intestines) and pork blood soup; both ingredients are staples of Taiwanese cooking and not as intimidating as they sound. That soup, for instance, used congealed blood – think blood curd. All right, that may not help, so think dark red custardy cubes of tofu in a clear broth flavored with sa cha sauce (soy oil, garlic, chiles, garlic, shallots and dried shrimp) with pickled mustard greens and chives. The combination may be foreign to Western palates, but the cubes absorb the broth and have a subtle, metallic taste.

As one diner commented, it’s a pretty innocuous way to eat blood.

In addition to soups, noodles and hot wok entrees, the menu features the most well known aspect of Taiwanese eating: night market street snacks. Bao (steamed buns) are found on lots of non-Asian menus around town lately, reflecting the popularity of this simple snack. Consider them Asian sliders with a fluffy, clamshell-shaped steamed bun. Or don’t consider, just order Tai Ke’s gua bao: a slab of slick, sweet pork belly with cilantro, ground peanuts, pickled mustard greens and a smear of a special sauce for about three bites of sweetly acidic, sour-ish perfection.

The sticky rice hot dog looked as funny as its name: Sticky rice formed into a dugout canoe cradled a plump, juicy Taiwanese pork sausage drizzled with a ketchup-y sauce. Grilled to snap when bitten, the sausage held hints of sweetness and five-spice powder, with a texture that contrasted nicely with its lightly grilled, glutinous pedestal. Hard-boiled eggs marinated in soy and five-spice powder are a snacking staple; here, they’re sliced in half, drizzled with a sweet and sour sauce, topped with chopped scallions and gone in less than a minute.

Tai Ke is located just south of Olive’s intersection with McKnight Road in a strip mall next door to Vietnamese restaurant Dao Tien. It’s a modest, brightly lit room that at first may seem off-putting, especially if you’re looking for ambience. But the welcoming staff and cheerful, attentive service, regardless of how busy it is, makes the room alive with warmth and chatter even on a dark winter’s night.

In Taipei, bizarrely themed restaurants are a big thing, like a bathroom-themed eatery that plumbs the depths of absurdity. (Don’t ask. Really.) At Tai Ke, there is no need for such tomfoolery. It’s just a place that stays close to its Taiwanese roots, and the food speaks for itself.

Where8604 Olive Blvd., University City, 314.801.8894, Facebook: Tai Ke

AT A GLANCE

Tai Ke

NEW AND NOTABLEp. 2 of 2

reviews

Don’t Miss DishesCrispy pork chop platter, Hakka Stir-Fry, pork belly bun

VibeSpotlessly clean, modestly decorated room with a warehouse-like ceiling, hanging fluorescent lamps and endless smiles of satisfaction

Entree Prices$9 to $14. Street snacks and noodles are even cheaper.

The kitchen at Tai Ke

WhenTue. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m.; Fri. – 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. and 5 to 11 p.m.; Sat. – noon to 11 p.m.; Sun. – noon to 10 p.m.


T H E F R E N C H Y With earthy but clean flavors, The Frenchy was an instant favorite. Flavorful chopped chicken is topped with melt-in-your-mouth bacon, Swiss cheese, red onions and portobello mushrooms on a sesame seed baguette from Fazio’s on The Hill. The subtle, mellow onion combines well with the mildly salty cheese, but mushrooms are the umami star of the show in this tasty sandwich.

T H E M I S S I S S I P P I N I G H T S C L U BMuch like its late, lamented namesake, The Mississippi Nights Club has a style and personality all its own. With a traditional base of sliced turkey, roast beef and bacon, this club gets an added punch of heat and texture from spicy red pepper spread, creamy pepper mayo and smashed Billy Goat Kicker chips in the sandwich.

T H E A L C A T R A Z Another winner, The Alcatraz is a warm pressed sandwich with tender, delectable chopped roast beef, melty Swiss and Provel cheeses, sweet (but not too sweet) caramelized onions and house Boss Sauce, which is a chipotle Thousand Island dressing. Garlic-buttered sourdough bread contains this glorious

mess of a sandwich. It might not hurt to tuck a napkin in your collar. (I did.)

P O T A T O S A L A DI often find deli potato salad a letdown (They all taste the same!), but the housemade potato salad at The Gramophone was a welcome and unexpected hit. The mayo-based salad is smoky and has a little kick, thanks to the addition of green onions, jalapenos and cilantro. I couldn’t wait to go back and order it again.

LUNCH RUSH

reviews

The Gramophone4243 Manchester Ave., St. Louis,

314.531.5700, gramophonestl.com

T H E D O W N S I D EThe Gramophone’s sandwiches are wrapped in foil and served with a stack of napkins, so things can get a bit messy dining in. It would be better to provide a tray or a paper plate. The one sandwich I’d avoid is The Veggie. Primarily lettuce, tomato and cucumber on sourdough, it tasted like a boring Greek salad on toast.

potato salad

THE GRAMOPHONEBY HILARY HITCHCOCK | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

Lunch Rush

Once primarily known as a live music venue in the popular Grove neighborhood, The Gramophone now bills itself as a tavern/deli/bottle shop. With orders taken at a bar, the restaurant is unlike most delis out there. But when a place serves lunch this good, who cares what it’s called? Sandwiches are filling, affordable and can be ordered in half portions, so try more than one. Here’s what to order:


Crunchy, flame-touched cheesy slices of pizza are washed down with tall glasses of luscious

wines and superb, no-nonsense cocktails at Yaquis on Cherokee. Here are a few reasons why this saloon at the epicenter of Cherokee Street’s vibrant food and drink scene deserves your attention.

The Space In one of the city’s most eclectic and colorful entertainment districts, Yaquis is more warm and stylish than avant-garde. Bright exposed brick walls and dark wood floors help produce a welcoming vibe, while mismatched chairs hint that the joint isn’t cookie-cutter. A row of Edison bulbs caged in industrial whisks hangs above the long slab of a wooden bar that dominates the comfortable little watering hole. Adjacent to an oversized print of

Josephine Baker, a massive chalkboard lists the wine offerings. Enormous bicycle wheel clocks set to St. Louis, New York and Paris times hang on the far wall, and black-and-white concert photos of artists like Jim James and Alabama Shakes look down on wood tables opposite the bar.

The Drinks Not having a set cocktail menu allows Yaquis’ bartenders to focus on classics in a made-to-order fashion. Service may not be the fastest (bartenders double as tableside waitstaff), but the results are ice-cold, dead-on and worth waiting for. Standbys like Old-Fashioneds and bloody marys are served up with satisfying layers of delicate flavor. Frosty pints of excellent local brews like 4 Hands Single Speed, Perennial Saison de Lis and Urban Chestnut STLIPA are available for $5 to

$6, along with another dozen or so bottles and cans. But Yaquis’ most expansive selection is by-the-glass pours of vino at an approachable $7 to $11. The wine list is awash with California pinot noirs,

French Burgundies, white Bordeauxs and Côtes du Rhônes, super Tuscans, rosés, ports and Rieslings. Unsure what to pair with a pizza? Servers are more than happy to let you sample a wine before ordering.

Try the fruity, dark red, medium-bodied Steele Cabernet Franc from California.

The Food The single-page evening menu is simple. Satisfying handmade, 14-inch, wood-fired pizzas are available with your choice of house-made sauces (a traditional red, an olive oil-based blanca or a mixture of both) along with toppings like house-smoked barbecue chicken, pine nuts, gourmet sausage and additional regular players. If you try the kitchen’s Margherita, sprinkled with fresh basil, customize by piling on more toppings, since the pizza by itself comes off a bit bland. The remainder of the menu is dominated by small plates. The well-rounded Yaqui Platter features a variety of cheeses, salami, olives, dried fruits and nuts. Like the menu, service is casual but sharp. Pizzas arrive just in time for your second drink.

The Scene In addition to being a pizza joint and wine bar, Yaquis also plays host to live music acts – mainly jazz and blues bands. When there isn’t live music, upbeat, jam band tunes rock out of speakers. Expect to hear Jimi Hendrix, The Allman Brothers, Stealers Wheel, The Eagles and maybe the odd John Lennon song, depending on the bartender. During early evenings, Yaquis feels like a date spot. As the night goes on, welcoming laughter emanates from regulars and locals, who are happily greeted as they pass through the front door. By 9 p.m. on a Saturday, there isn’t a free stool at the bar – the place is packed with laid-back, casually dressed 20- to 50-somethings. While it may not be the hottest nightspot in town, Yaquis has a friendly glow, well tended by an enthusiastic crowd.

nightlifeyaquis on cherokeeBY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK

Yaquis on Cherokee2728 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.400.7712, yaquisoncherokee.com

ORDER IT:Yaquis on Cherokee

A classic Old-Fashioned from the bar at Yaquis.

Try the Margherita pizza with an added topping of

prosciutto.

NIGHTLIFE

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The Contratto Aperitif and Contratto Bitter are two of our new favorite pre-dinner sippers. The Aperitif is a lovely orange, lighter offering with fresh, bright notes of candied orange fruit, rhubarb and hints of floral and citrus. The Bitter is dark red and bolder with orange, stone fruit, a touch of vanilla, and a lingering, pleasantly bitter finish. Each packs a bounty of flavors in every sip. Tasty by themselves,

both are also delightful with sparkling wine. $30 each. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com

TED AND JAMIE KILGORE

USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and co-owners/bartenders at

Planter’s House

The 2013 Jean-Louis Chave Côtes-du-Rhône Mon Coeur from the south of France is perfect for Valentine’s Day. Mon coeur translates to “my heart,” after all. The Syrah-dominant blend is like a brawny pinot noir – fruity and spicy with soft tannins and endless food compatibility. As

Sinatra might say, “lovely to look at, delightful to nose and heaven to drink.” $20. Lukas Wine & Spirits Superstore, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com

GLENN BARDGETT Member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine

director at Annie Gunn’s

dine & drink

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake

Some of the best beers in the nation aren’t rare special releases. Many of our favorite beers are the ones you’ll find on grocery store shelves all year long. The Sierra Nevada Pale Ale smells of fresh grapefruit, but is really balanced and easy to drink. If you like

something darker, Deschutes Obsidian Stout is rich and full of espresso and dark chocolate notes. Six-packs of both can usually be found in our home fridge year-round.

CORY ANDKAREN KING

Co-owners at Side Project Brewing and The Side

Project Cellar

Check out the Kilgores' pick of pre-dinner

sippers with big flavor.


Korean soju. Japanese sake. Kentucky bourbon. Every region has its spirit, and if your lineage comes by way of Scandinavia, aquavit is your official libation. Less ubiquitous than other kinds of clear booze, this mermaid is a neutral distilled spirit (like vodka) infused with botanicals and herbs (like gin). While the dominant flavor of gin is piney juniper, aquavit’s is piquant caraway with background notes of dill, cumin, coriander and fennel, finishing with a light citrus.

No longer just for fjord-fancying Norsephiles, the northern spirit is now popping up in cocktails and bottle shops closer to home. Many domestic distillers, like Portland’s House Spirits and Chicago’s North Shore Distillery, have started to produce and distribute North American versions of the increasingly popular food-friendly liquor.

First arriving on the scene in the 15th century, aquavit means “water of life” and was long thought to be a cure-all for most any ailment including, ironically, alcoholism. (FYI: It’s not.) Recipes vary from Norway to Denmark to Sweden, but wherever you find yourself in Scandinavia, the toast is the same. To imbibe properly, you must first hold your glass at chest level. Look your drinking buddy directly in the eye, throw back the drink, then return your glass to chest level and resume eye contact. Skål!

If you want to give this Scandi spirit a go, aquavit enthusiast Matt Osmoe of Blood & Sand said to pick up a bottle of Linie Aquavit. “It’s great by itself and stands up well in cocktails,” Osmoe said. “The flavor profile is very true to tradition.” Linie is Norwegian for line – referring, in this

case, to the equator. The brand is ocean-aged: distilled, barreled in sherry casks and put on a ship that sails to and from Australia, crossing the equator twice. Both romantic tradition and effectual process for mellowing a straight-from-the-still product, the result is a spicy caraway start with a dry finish. Try a glass straight up, or mix an aquavit Negroni and pair with smoked salmon, potatoes and dill or, if you’re feeling particularly Nordic, pickled herring.

If you’d like to dip your toe before diving into the water of life, try aquavit in a cocktail when you’re out on the town. Osmoe has a triumvirate of aquavit-based

cocktails available at Blood & Sand, or look for Ted Kilgore’s aquavit bloody mary, the Bloody Well Right, at Planter’s House and Jeffrey Moll’s Collins-like Madam I’m Adam at Randolfi’s.

If you only try one, get Richard Vagnino’s The North Wind at Reeds American Table: a shaken, purposefully ungarnished mix of North Shore aquavit, lime juice and house-made black pepper and caraway syrup. With a slightly sweet nose, a bright spiciness, and a light and dry finish with underlying warmth, it’s a great way to say hej, hallå and hallo to aquavit.

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ASCENDINGMEET THE SPIRIT OF THE NORTH

If you want to pick up a bottle of your cool new Nordic friend, try Linie Aquavit. $30. Starrs, 1135 S. Big Bend Blvd., Richmond Heights, 314.781.2345, starr1.com

The North Wind aquavit cocktail

at Reeds American Table


VEGETIZE IT

Vegan BeignetsBY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

Mardi Gras is my reward for surviving the winter holidays. Instead of obligatory gift giving and awkward work parties, it’s an unrestrained

celebration of goodwill toward fellow humans, illustrated by the dispensing of beaded necklaces, heady beverages and witty banter in the porta-potty line. In honor of the Grand Parade (which I’m missing due to being old my kids’ basketball games) I’m making vegan beignets.


Beignets are fried bubbles of sweet dough, covered in unapologetic mounds of powdered sugar. They are the official state doughnut of Louisiana, and a bucket-list purchase at New Orleans’ famed Café du Monde. To make an egg- and dairy-free version that’s as decadent as the real deal, I started at the beginning: with flour.

Flour contains protein. Add liquid, and the protein transforms into gluten. More protein equals more gluten, equals more chewiness. For a sturdy beignet that could stand up to a deep-fry, I picked protein-rich bread flour for my first attempt. The results were like a fried baguette – delicious, but too heavy to feel authentic. On the opposite side of the protein spectrum, self-rising flour gave me substantial, yet tender beignets. As a bonus, self-rising flour contains dashes of salt and baking powder, which work with the yeast to add extra fluffiness. If you would rather spend your cash on zydeco downloads instead of niche flours, simply use all-purpose flour with an extra pinch of salt, enjoy your medium-dense beignets, and move on.

Regular readers know that coconut milk is my go-to rich and creamy vegan milk substitute. Here it works like a Jello shot: sweet and effective, adding a hint of coconut that deepens the flavor profile. What failed like a three-wheeled parade float was my usual flaxseed and water egg substitute. Beignets made with that had an after-taste charitably described as icky. Instead, I used Ener-G Egg Replacer, found in the gluten-free aisle of most grocery stores. I’m ashamed to say that I haven’t used Ener-G because of my mistaken assumption that it’s a

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VEGAN BEIGNETS

4 DOZEN

1½ cups plus ¼ cup warm water, divided

1 packet (¼ oz.) active dry yeast1 Tbsp. Ener-G Egg Replacer1 cup coconut milk, whisked to

incorporate the coconut cream and water

½ cup organic granulated sugar½ tsp. kosher salt2 tsp. pure vanilla extract1 tsp. ground cinnamon8 cups self-rising flour* 2 tsp. canola oil, plus more for frying1 cup organic powdered sugar for

dusting

• Pour 1½ cups warm water (100 to 110 degrees) into the bowl of

processed Frankenfood. Au contraire, it’s a helpful combo of not-scary potato and tapioca starches that lightened my beignets with no off-taste.

The dough in this recipe is super-sticky, so a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment works best for kneading. Alternatively, you can Google the “slap and fold” technique, which sounds like a bar fight, but is just a way to hand-knead heavily hydrated dough. In both cases, the kneading time will vary depending on the humidity and your sobriety. You’ll know the kneaded dough is ready to rest when it stretches without tearing, a little test super-bakers call the “window pane technique.” Then you’re just a rise and fry away from fresh hot beignets, a worthy Mardi Gras celebration for the parade in your own kitchen.

a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Sprinkle the yeast on top of the water and let it dissolve.

• In another bowl, whisk together the Ener-G Egg Replacer and the remaining ¼ cup warm water, then add the coconut milk, granulated sugar, salt, vanilla and cinnamon.

• Turn the mixer on low and add the coconut milk mixture to the yeast and water. Add the flour ½ cup at a time. Continue to mix on low 10 minutes, until you can stretch a small ball of dough with your fingertips without tearing it. The dough will still be quite sticky.

• Grease a large, nonreactive bowl with 2 teaspoons canola oil. Place the dough in the bowl, turning it so the dough becomes covered with a thin layer of oil. Cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel and let the dough rest 2 hours in a draft-free place.

• Sprinkle a cutting board with a little flour. Place the rested dough on the cutting board and roll it out into a ¼-inch thick slab. Use a pizza cutter or sharp knife to cut the dough into 1½- to 2-inch squares.

• In a deep, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat, warm 3 inches canola oil to 350 degrees. Working in batches, gently place the dough pieces into the hot oil. Cook the beignets 2 to 3 minutes, turning them once, until they puff up and are golden brown. Carefully remove the beignets from the hot oil and drain them on paper towels until they are cool enough to touch. Serve warm with a generous dusting of powdered sugar.

* If substituting all-purpose flour, add an additional ½ teaspoon salt.


MAKE THIS

CAJUN PASTA


St. Louisans find their inner Cajun each year at Mardi Gras, but we also have a strong Italian heritage. Combining these two culinary juggernauts is as simple as this dish. To a large skillet over medium heat, add 2 tablespoons olive oil, then saute 1 small chopped onion, 1 sliced green bell pepper, 1 sliced red bell pepper, 2 cloves minced garlic, 12 ounces thinly sliced andouille sausage and 2 tablespoons Cajun seasoning until the onions become translucent, 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in 1 cup white wine and 2 tablespoons tomato paste, then cook until the sauce reduces by half, about 3 minutes. Add 1 pint heavy cream, bring to a low boil then turn down the heat to low and let the sauce reduce about 5 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare 1 pound farfalle or campanelle pasta according to package directions. Taste the sauce and adjust seasoning if needed, then remove from heat. Add the cooked pasta to the sauce and toss to coat. Serve topped with Parmesan cheese. – Dee Ryan

MAKE THIS

CAJUN PASTA ACTIVE TIME: 15 MINUTES

MAKE THIS

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If you enjoy Dee Ryan’s quick and easy recipes in Make This, don’t miss

her online column, Just Five. Go to samg.bz/saucejust5 to find recipes that you can whip up in a jiffy and require just five key ingredients.

To create your own version of Cajun seasoning “Bam!”

combine ¼ cup smoked paprika, ¼ cup kosher salt, 2 tablespoons each freshly

ground black pepper, ground white pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, 1 tablespoon

each thyme, cayenne, brown sugar, and 1 teaspoon each turmeric, cumin, mace and

celery salt.


Small-scale bakeries are changing the St. Louis bread scene in a big way. Diving deep into the bread rabbit

hole – from swapping commercial yeast for natural leavening to riffing on traditional recipes with unexpected ingredients – these five bakeries produce loaves with more

complex flavor and superior texture. Here, proof that artisanal bread is on the rise. – Meera Nagarajan

L O A V E S W E

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U N I O N L O A F E R S C A F E A N D B R E A D B A K E R Y Picking out a loaf at this bakery is foolproof. Every one at Loafers is nothing short of excellent. Cutting the crusty dark and mild reveals big pockets of air resulting from the fermentation that delivers a complex, almost beer-like flavor. The caraway rye is even more intense with additional nuttiness and the bittersweet spice of caraway. Even the baguette has an unexpected depth of flavor. Prices vary. 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com

J . D E V O T I G R O C E R YJ. Devoti’s rich and cake-like brioche has a yellow crumb as sunny as a June day from its abundance of egg yolks and butter. It would be ideal for BLTs, PB&Js or simply toasted with butter. The boule also shouldn’t be missed. This high-hydration loaf translates to a custardy crumb and a crackling, burnished crust. Shop open Saturdays, otherwise call for availability. Brioche: $8. Boule: $6. Five Bistro, 5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.5553, fivebistro.com

T R U F F L E S B U T C H E R YThe dense and funky fermented country loaves made by Truffles’ baker Cesar

Calderon have piqued our interest. The confit orange took us by surprise with a sophisticated sweetness, as did the rosemary bacon, which was smoky and herbaceous with a spicy finish. Varieties rotate. Look for other adventurous versions like beet and blue cheese and turmeric-Kalamata. $6. 9202 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.567.9100, todayattruffles.com

W I N S L O W ’ S H O M EThe focaccia at Winslow’s is spongy with grassy, spicy notes from a glug of olive oil and a subtle flavor boost from rosemary and freshly ground black pepper. This soft bread is topped with a showering of crunchy sea salt for added bite. $4. 7213 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.725.7559, winslowshome.com

4 S E A S O N S B A K E R Y After you try a pastry or two (you won’t be able to resist), order one of the bronzed loaves on offer. We particularly like the tangy ciabatta. This soft, airy bread is perfect slathered with butter or any cheese that involves the words triple creme. Fridays and Saturdays only. $4. 2012 Campus Drive, St. Charles, 314.288.9176, 4seasonsbakery.com

*In late February, 4 Seasons Bakery will change its name to Sucrose and move to 700 S. Fifth St. in St. Charles. L O A V E S F R O M U N I O N

L O A F E R S C A F E A N D B R E A D B A K E R Y


party bar

9 bottles, 19 cocktails, $150, 1 hell of a party

BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS

collinsrecipe on p. 35


Base SpiritsEclipse Restaurant’s bar manager Seth Wahlman recommended these bottles because they’re affordable, work for mixing into cocktails and are also good to enjoy on their own.

* Broker’s London dry gin * Rittenhouse rye whiskey* El Dorado 5-year aged rum

Mixers and Garnishes* Angostura bitters* Sweet vermouth* Dry vermouth* Campari* Grenadine * Simple syrup (1 part sugar

dissolved in 1 part water)* Fresh-squeezed lemon juice* Lemon peel* Club soda* Ice* Sugar cubes

Equipment* Jigger * Boston shaker * Long-handled spoon

All bottles and bar supplies are available at Randall's Wine & Spirits. 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199; 14201 Manchester Road, Manchester, 636.527.1002, shoprandalls.com

What you need to bring the cocktail party home

February 201634 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

“My favorite party drinks have preparations that don’t change

according to the spirit, such as an Old-Fashioned, Sours and Daisies.”

– Justin CardwellBC’s Kitchen general manager

daisy cocktail

recipe on p. 35


Old-Fashioned

1 SERVING

1 sugar cube2 dashes Angostura bitters2 oz. spirit (gin, whiskey or rum)Lemon peel for garnish

• Place the sugar cube in a rocks glass, soak with the bitters, then muddle with a spoon. Add a large ice cube, pour in the spirit and stir. Garnish with the lemon peel.

Sour Family

1 SERVING

1½ oz. spirit (gin, whiskey or rum)¾ oz. lemon juice¾ oz. simple syrup

• Pour all ingredients in a shaker ¾ full of ice and shake 20 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass.

Daisy Cocktails

1 SERVING

2 oz. spirit (gin, whiskey or rum)1 oz. lemon juice1 tsp. grenadine½ tsp. simple syrupClub soda

• Pour the spirit, lemon juice, grenadine and simple syrup in a shaker ¾ full of ice and shake 10 seconds. Strain into a Collins glass filled with ice and top with club soda.

Collins

1 SERVING

2 oz. spirit (gin, whiskey or rum)1 oz. lemon juice½ oz. simple syrup

2 oz. club sodaLemon peel for garnish

• Combine the spirit, lemon juice and simple syrup in a shaker ¾ full with ice and shake 10 seconds. Strain into a Collins glass filled with ice, top with the club soda and garnish with the lemon peel.

Boulevardier

1 SERVING

1 oz. rye whiskey1 oz. Campari1 oz. sweet vermouth

• Pour all ingredients in a large glass ¾ full with ice and stir at least 20 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass.

Martini

1 SERVING

3 oz. gin ½ oz. dry vermouthLemon peel for garnish

• Pour all ingredients in a large glass ¾ full with ice and stir at least 20 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass, and garnish with the lemon peel.

Manhattan

1 SERVING

2 oz. rye whiskey or rum1 oz. sweet vermouth2 dashes Angostura bittersLemon peel for garnish

• Pour all ingredients in a large glass ¾ full with ice and stir at least 20 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass, and garnish with the lemon peel.

Old Pal

1 SERVING

1 oz. rye whiskey1 oz. Campari1 oz. dry vermouth

• Pour all ingredients in a large glass ¾ full with ice and stir at least 20 seconds. Strain into a cocktail glass.

Americano

1 SERVING

1 oz. Campari1 oz. sweet vermouthClub soda

• Fill a Collins glass with ice, add Campari and vermouth, then top with club soda.

Negroni

1 SERVING

1 oz. gin1 oz. Campari1 oz. sweet vermouth

• Pour all ingredients in a large glass ¾ full with ice and stir at least 20 seconds. Strain into a Collins glass filled with ice.

recipesCourtesy of Eclipse Restaurant’s Seth Wahlman

old-fashioned


date great From Tinder trysts to marriage proposals, here are seven spots to seal the deal. – Holly Fann

BA R LES F R E R ES


Engagements inspire people to patronize stuffy establishments where waiters place napkins in laps and walls are lined with gilded paper. But unless this is how you roll on a typical Saturday night, a proposal in that atmosphere can seem a bit chilly, not to mention painfully obvious. Bar Les Freres manages to exude romance without feeling formal or stiff. The intimate, relaxed restaurant is furnished with overstuffed antique settees and marble-topped tables. The menu starts with an outstanding wine and cocktail selection and is full of classic French dishes like a sublime duck confit with celeriac and Brussels sprouts and an ethereal Gruyere souffle. Popping the question will seem like the natural thing to do.

7637 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.725.8880, barlesfreres.net

P R O P O S A L D A T E

BAR LES FRERES

T I N D E R D A T E

SMALL BATCH

A candlelit whiskey bar is just the place for a Tinder date. Small Batch’s sleek, long bar won’t leave you awkwardly searching for a seat, and with a menu including more than 100 whiskeys, ryes and bourbons from every corner of the globe, anyone can find the right fire water to help loosen up. There is also a dynamic, vegetarian menu on offer – but dinner may not be your goal tonight. Read the entertaining free association whiskey descriptions to get the conversation going with your date, and choose a flight to try. The romantic lighting and expansive space are suited to escaping with – or, if necessary, away from – a Tinder match.

3001 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.380.2040, smallbatchstl.com

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38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

F I R S T D A T E

PLANTER’S HOUSE

Embodying both sophistication and a lack of pretension, Planter’s House hits the right note for a first date. With the support of a little libation, you’ll be ready for anything – and it’s a place where you can steer your evening in any direction. Order a single gin-based Going Dutch cocktail and part with an awkward hug, or direct your date to the intimate Bullock Room and share an order of bacon-filled gougères to go with a couple boozy Winner Winner Whiskey Dinner cocktails. Feed your date the toasted marshmallow-topped creme brulee, and all you’ll need is an Uber to end the evening.

1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com

February 2016

OW N E R T E D K I LGOR E T E N D I NG BA R I N T H E BU L LOC K ROOM AT PL A NT E R'S HOUSE


C O - W O R K E R D A T E

THE LIBERTINE

D O U B L E D A T E

ORBIT PINBALL LOUNGE

Orbit Pinball Lounge offers a bustling weekend crowd and casual bar along with a dozen or so pinball games and Skee-Ball lanes. The front room has candlelit, cozy booths where you can actually hear each other speak over the din of ringing game bumpers and bells. Order off the bartenders’ chalkboard menu of creative nightly cocktail specials and share a pizza or two. Conversation getting too political? Change out bills for quarters and spend some time working your hips against a pinball game or competing in a Skee-Ball throwdown with your date.

7401 Hazel Ave., Maplewood, 314.769.9954, Facebook: Orbit Pinball Lounge

A N N I V E R S A R Y D A T E

STONE SOUP COTTAGE

After years together, you have a good idea of what your partner will order. Celebrate with the guarantee of a superior meal and the opportunity to share a unique experience, without going to the same old special-occasion-only restaurants. This year, take a leisurely drive out to Cottleville and enjoy the exceptional six-course tasting menu with wine pairings at Stone Soup Cottage. With it’s bucolic scenery and intimate, 40-person dining room, it delivers a unique fine-dining experience. Be sure to plan well in advance, as reservations can fill up months ahead.

5809 State Highway N., Cottleville, 636.244.2233, stonesoupcottage.com

“Let’s get dinner sometime” can be either a benign or loaded offer, especially when coming from a co-worker. At

The Libertine, you can easily keep the mood friendly and professional or move towards romantic and flirty. With a lively, busy atmosphere and a gracious waitstaff, whichever way you direct the evening will seem natural. Warm up with an intoxicating cocktail, then decide whether you want to lean in towards your office mate over that cozy shared polenta or just order the poutine, unconcerned about spilling a little foie gras gravy on your shirt, and call it a night.

7927 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.862.2999, libertinestl.com

B R E A K U P D A T E

STRANGE DONUTS

Breaking up with someone can be messy: accusations, tears, yelling – even walkouts. If you must break up, choose a place with a quick exit strategy that’s still tasty and not too mean-spirited. At Strange Donuts, buy your soon-to-be ex a gooey butter cake doughnut or sweet and salty maple bacon doughnut and, after leaving the counter-service shop, drop the news softened by a sugar high. You may have broken a heart, but at least you didn’t leave a bad taste in his mouth.

2709 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood, 314.932.5851, strangedonuts.com

T H E L I BE RT I N E


You’ve Been Murdered, Charlie BrownFeb. 5 – 6 to 9 p.m., Little Hills Winery & Restaurant, 501 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.946.9339, littlehillswinery.com

The beloved comic strip character has met his end. Can you solve the crime in just three courses? Start with a Caesar salad, then enjoy a main course of roasted chicken with wheat berry pilaf and grilled asparagus. A sweet finale of chocolate roulade and Chantilly cream will finish the meal at this dinner and whodunit. Tickets available online.

Maple Sugar FestivalFeb. 6 – 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., Rockwoods Reservation, 2751 Glencoe Road, Wildwood, 636.458.2236, mcd.mo.gov/node/32161Bring the family and

learn about Missouri’s tradition of maple syrup. Explore tapped trees and watch as the liquid gold is collected. See how early American settlers boiled down sap and compare that to more modern methods. Sample the finished sticky syrup, pure maple sugar or maple syrup on shaved ice, then ride that sugar high with grub from the Vincent Van Doughnut food truck, or opt for more savory fare from Pyro Pizza.

Ferguson Indoor Farmers MarketFeb. 20 – 9 a.m. to noon, St. Stephen’s Church, 33 N. Clay Ave., Ferguson, 314.521.0138, fergusonfarmersmarket.com

Farmers don’t hibernate, and neither should you. The indoor farmers market will be bustling with vendors and farmers like EarthDance Farms, Circle B Ranch and Great Harvest Bread Co. Stop by Just Omelets to dig into made-to-order breakfast and fuel up for a morning of farm-fresh shopping.

Untamed Hearts: An Intimate Valentine’s Day DinnerFeb. 12 and 13 – 6:30 to 10 p.m., Saint Louis Zoo Lakeside Cafe, 1 Government Drive, St. Louis, 314.646.4897, stlzoo.org

Calling all lovebirds: Don your finest plumage and enjoy a four-course meal with your favorite snuggle bunny. A bottle of wine is included with your meal that begins with beet chips with thyme-balsamic goat cheese and is followed by a salad. Choose an entree of braised short ribs, crab-stuffed lobster or a roasted vegetable terrine, then finish with a raspberry and dark chocolate flourless torte. Learn about animal attraction and enjoy after-dinner dancing. Call for reservations.

Centennial Beer FestivalFeb. 26 – 6 to 9 p.m. and Feb. 27 – 2 to 5 p.m. and 6 to 9 p.m., Moulin Events & Meetings, 2017 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, centennialbeerfestival.comSample more than 200

beers from our own backyard and around the country as more than 80 breweries gather to show off their suds. Sip on brews from 25 local and regional players like Modern Brewery, Cathedral Square and Piney River, then check out offerings from out-of-towners like Oskar Blues, Firestone Walker and Boulevard Brewing. Vote for your favorite homebrew in Friday’s competition or spring for the VIP experience in the Malt House Cellar on Saturday. Tickets online and at the door.

Garland Wines Experience Wine Classes Feb. 2, 9 and 16 – 7 to 9 p.m., Garland Wines, 11 S. Old Orchard Ave., Webster Groves, 314.961.9463, garlandwines.com

Spend three February nights sipping and learning about vino from around the world.

stuff to do: F E B R U A R YB Y K R I S T I N S C H U L T Z


Soirée pour la Vue: An Evening for Sight Feb. 5 – 6 to 10 p.m. Palladium St. Louis, 1400 Park Place, St. Louis, 618.394.6447, mindseyeradio.org/soiree The 13th annual Soirée pour la Vue features an auction and Cajun-inspired dinner buffet from Butler’s Pantry. Enjoy an open bar while you dance the night away to jazz band The Original Knights of Swing. The Mardi Gras-themed event raises funds for Minds Eye Information Service, which provides radio-reading services for the blind. Tickets available online.

Opera Theatre’s Annual Wine & Beer TastingFeb. 12 – 6 to 8:30 p.m., Sally S. Levy Opera Center, 210 Hazel Ave., Webster Groves, 314.963.4229, experienceopera.orgSupport the arts at Opera Theatre’s annual wine and beer tasting. The evening will feature beers from Grey Eagle Distributors and wine from bars like Cafe Napoli, Bar Italia and Robust. Snack on hors d’oeuvres from Baileys’ Chocolate Bar, LoRusso’s Cucina, Sqwires, Three Kings Public House and Vin de Set, and enjoy selections from Kaldi’s Coffee and Kakao chocolates. Tickets available online or by phone.

And in This Corner … Cassius ClayWeekends from Feb. 12 to 28 – times vary, Lee Auditorium at the Missouri History Museum, 5700 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.932.7414, cassiusproject.comMetro Theater Company presents And In This Corner … Cassius Clay, a play by Idris Goodwin at the Missouri History Museum. Based on the life of a young Muhammad Ali, the play tells the story the young boxer’s struggles and triumph over racism and segregation. Show times and ticket information are available online or by calling the Metro Theater Box Office.

Find out what makes German wines unique, sample domestic varieties from California and say, “Ooh la la!” to French wines. These classes are available individually or at a discounted rate when you RSVP for all three. Reservations available by phone.

sponsored events


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WHAT I DOPatrick Devine

With a last name like Devine, this pastry chef was born to

make dessert. Today, you can find Patrick Devine turning out French confections as assistant

pastry chef of Simone Faure’s La Patisserie Chouquette in Botanical Heights. Here, he

shares his love of challenging technique and crowd-pleasing

sweets. – Heather Hughes

Why work with pastry?I love to cook, but I also appreciate the rigid technical (aspect of) pastries, and the challenge of finding where you can be creative with it. … I liked that whole challenge of sticking with a recipe, and if you don’t do it right, then it doesn’t turn out –understanding why it worked or why it didn’t work. If we are all in this industry to please people and satisfy some creative need we have, too, dessert is really going to cap that off.

You worked at The Ritz-Carlton in Clayton for a long time. Why did you go with Faure to Chouquette? Simone likes to say it’s this big Jerry Maguire thing, where she was like, “Who’s coming with me?” But it was more me saying, “That sounds like exactly what I wanted to do from the moment I moved back to St. Louis.”

… We work together really well. She had a one-guy-in-the-kitchen rule for a long time, even at the hotel. She’s like, “There is enough testosterone in one person, and you are that person.”

How is working at a small, independent pastry shop different than working at The Ritz?More control. In a hotel, you have your day-to-day dictated to you by what kind of events are going on. … It’s more producing a lot of food. … It is extremely frustrating at times, very challenging, keeps you on your toes. It’s a great place to learn. Moving from that to something small … gives you a chance to be more focused on individual creative items.

Chouquette specializes in French pastry and elaborate cake designs. What are you in charge of? My main focus is the baked goods, the individual pastries. … I don’t care to do cakes. When it comes to decorating, ... I’ll just really overthink the details, where Simone is like, “I’m going to do this, and here it goes.” And it looks awesome. She can knock out someone’s wedding cake in half a day, and it’s the most glorious thing you’ve ever seen. For me, it would take like four days. And I’d still be staring at it.

What’s your favorite thing to make?My favorite thing to make is The Darkness. It’s Simone’s creation – a triple chocolate croissant. … Laminated doughs are really fun to make, but I like this one because most people haven’t seen chocolate dough before. Usually when they see it coming they’re like, “Ahh.”

What’s the most difficult menu item to make?The macaroons. We had a great recipe going into opening, and that first summer was so hot and humid it just didn’t work. A lot of work goes into those – I think more than anything in the shop. They definitely give laminated dough and croissants a run for their money.

You post a lot of food and architecture photography on Instagram. Where did your passion for photography come from? I got this nice camera for Christmas

from my in-laws. It started more as outdoor nature stuff, and then that turned into urban exploration photography, abandoned buildings. And now that I have been at Chouquette, it’s turned more into food photography.

Do both disciplines fulfill your creative needs in the same way? I think most chefs or even pastry people have quite a creative aspect to their personality. I feel much more comfortable in a kitchen or behind a camera more than I am in front it. (They both require) being a little introverted.

La Patisserie Chouquette1626 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7935, simonefaure.com


ROBUST

The Robust Life. Sip wines, sample our fare, and shop our wines and gifts. Explore our menu of artisan cheeses, charcuterie, and unique wine- inspired tasting plates. With more than 40 wines by the glass, wine flights, craft beer and handmade cocktails, choose your favorites or onsite sommeliers will accommodate you with a selection.

Robust • Two locations: Webster Groves • Downtown St. Louis at The MXrobustwinebar.com

Acero • 7266 Manchester Rd. • St. Louis, MO 63143314-644-1790 • fialafood.com/acero

ACERO

Located in Maplewood, this Italian wine bar offers an entirely Italian wine list and authentic regional food. The menu consists of small, light dishes prepared with fresh, high-quality ingredients. The charming, modern environment of Acero is the perfect place to enjoy a glass of vino and a small taste of quality ingredients prepared simply and tastefully.

FLEUR DE LILIES

“At Fleur de Lilies, the new Creole restaurant in Soulard, the shrimp arrives savory and fragrant. At Fleur de Lilies the new Korean restaurant, the kalbi entree arrives sizzling hot in a cast iron skillet. At Fleur de Lilies, the new sushi place, the colorful Geisha’s Kiss roll is as appetizing as it is visually appealing.”

— Michael RennerSauce Magazine, January 2016

Fleur de Lilies • 1031 Lynch St. • St. Louis, MO 63118 314-932-5051 • fleurdelilies.com

The Crossing • 7823 Forsyth Blvd. • Clayton, MO 63105314-721-7375 • fialafood.com/the-crossing

Mollys in Soulard • 816 Geyer Ave. • St. Louis, MO 63104314-241-6200 • mollysinsoulard.com

MOLLYS IN SOULARD

Molly’s in Soulard boasts a French-Creole-NOLA inspired menu, with po’ boys, oysters, and fresh house-made gumbo. Valentines Day Special: A four course dinner for two. An omnivore or vegan gluten-free meal for $95 (not including tip or tax) from 6-9 pm which includes two glasses of cham-pagne. For reservations or info call 314-241-6200 or email [email protected].

ADVERTISEMENT

THE CROSSING

Located in Clayton, this restaurant crosses French and Italian cuisines in a refined setting. To keep the flavors of the original cuisines in their new creations, the chefs use classical cooking techniques.

If you’re looking for the perfect romantic spot for Valentine’s Day, look no further than these fine establishments.

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LAKE FOREST CONFECTIONS

Fresh raspberries flown in from the Pacific Northwest are hand-dipped in our French Fondant and covered in Lake Forest chocolate. Available for Valentine’s Day! Pre-order yours today and call 314-721-9997.

Lake Forest Confections • 7801 Clayton Rd. • Clayton, MO 63117314-721-9997 • lakeforestconfections.com

FEB. 2016

February 2016

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